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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Shawn Low, Daniel McCrohan
Singapore
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Contents
Welcome to Singapore .........................4Singapore’s Top 10 ..........6
What’s New .................... 13
Need to Know ................ 14
Top Itineraries ............... 16
If You Like... .................... 18
Month by Month ........... 20
With Kids ........................24
Like a Local ....................25
Eating ........................... 26Drinking & Nightlife... 29Entertainment ............ 32Shopping ...................... 34
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Singapore 153
Survival Guide 177
Singapore Maps 199
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Singapore 36
Transport ..................... 178
Directory A–Z ..............183
Menu Decoder ............. 187
Index ............................. 192
Singapore Today .........154
History ..........................156
Food ..............................164
Peranakan Culture ...... 170
Languages of Singapore ..................... 174
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ............................38
Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays ........... 40
Chinatown & the CBD ...55
Little India & Kampong Glam..............65
Orchard Road ................77
Eastern Singapore ........85
Northern & Central Singapore .......................96
Holland Village, Dempsey Hill & the Botanic Gardens ...102
West & Southwest Singapore .....................109
Sentosa & Other Islands ................116
Day Trips from Singapore .................. 124
Sleeping ..................... 140
(left) Baba House (p57)
(above) Deepavali festival (p23)
(right) Kueh pie ti, a Nonya speciality (p91)
RIC
HA
RD
LIM / A
LAM
Y ©
AU
N K
OH
/ LON
ELY P
LAN
ET IM
AG
ES ©
MIC
HA
EL C
OY
NE / LO
NE
LY PLA
NE
T IMA
GES
©
Pulau Ubin
Holland Village,Dempsey Hill &
the Botanic Gardens
OrchardRoad
Chinatown& the CBD
Northern & CentralSingapore
West & SouthwestSingapore
EasternSingapore
SentosaIsland
Little India &Kampong Glam
Colonial District,Marina Bay& the Quays
p109
p96
p102
p116p55
p40
p85
p77
p65
p116
FELIX
HU
G / LO
NE
LY PLA
NE
T IMA
GES
©Explore SingaporeNeighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . .38
Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays . . . . . . . . . . . 40Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . .48Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . . .52Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
Chinatown & the CBD . . . . . . . . . . . . .55Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . . 61Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . . .63Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Little India & Kampong Glam . . . . . . .65Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . . 73Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Orchard Road . . . . . . . . 77Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . . 81Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
Eastern Singapore . . . .85Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . .93Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . . .94Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95
Northern & Central Singapore . . . .96Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99
Holland Village, Dempsey Hill & the Botanic Gardens . . . . . 102Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .106Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
West & Southwest Singapore . . . . . . . . . .109Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Sentosa & Other Islands . . . . . . . 116Sentosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Pulau Ubin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Southern Islands . . . . . . . . . 122
Day Trips from Singapore . . . . . . . . . . 124Pulau Bintan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Johor Bahru . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Pulau Tioman . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Melaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . .140
36
199
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
Border CrossingBus
CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking
TaxiS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
Airport
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
Singapore Maps
200
55
5
:
1
1
4Po
yan
Reservo
ir
Lower
Seletar
Reservo
ir
Kranji
Reservo
ir
Straito
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Ð" 1
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Ð" 6Ð" 7
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010
km0
5m
iles
#e
MAP
INDE
X 1 C
hina
tow
n &
the
CBD
(p 20
1 )
2 Li
ttle
Indi
a &
Kam
pong
Gla
m
(p 20
4 )
3 No
rthe
rn &
Cen
tral
Sin
gapo
re
(p 20
7 )
4 Co
loni
al D
istr
ict (
p 208
)
5 Th
e Qu
ays
(p 21
0 )
6 Or
char
d Ro
ad (p
212 )
7 Eas
tern
Sin
gapo
re (p
214 )
8 Ho
lland
Vill
age
& De
mps
ey
Hill
(p 21
6 )
9 So
uthw
est S
inga
pore
(p 21
8 )
10 W
est S
inga
pore
(p 21
9 )
11 S
ento
sa Is
land
(p 22
0 )
12 N
orth
east
Sin
gapo
re (p
222 )
13 P
ulau
Ubi
n (p
223 )
201201
CHINATOWN & THE CBD Map on p202
æ Sights (p57) 31 Screening Room........................................D31 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple.....................D3 Tantric Bar........................................ (see 13)2 Chinatown Heritage Centre......................D2 32 Tea Chapter...............................................C43 Seng Wong Beo Temple .......................... D6 33 Toucan Irish Pub .......................................C44 Singapore City Gallery ............................. D4 34 Wonderful Food & Beverage....................D35 Sri Mariamman Temple ............................D2 35 Yixing Xuan Teahouse ..............................C46 Thian Hock Keng Temple..........................E37 Wak Hai Cheng Bio Temple .......................F1 ý Entertainment (p63)
36 Chinese Theatre Circle .............................D3ú Eating (p58) Screening Room............................... (see 31)
8 Annalakshmi Janatha................................E3 37 Singapore Chinese Orchestra.................. F69 Blue Ginger ................................................C5 38 Toy Factory Theatre Ensemble................ C2
10 Chinatown Complex..................................C211 Ci Yan Organic Vegetarian Health þ Shopping (p63)
Food.........................................................D3 39 Eu Yan Sang Medical Hall.........................D312 Cumi Bali ....................................................C5 40 People's Park Complex..............................C113 Dim Joy.......................................................B4 41 Tong Mern Sern Antiques ........................ B514 Kim Joo Guan.............................................D2 42 Utterly Art ..................................................D215 Lan Zhou La Mian ......................................D3 43 Yong Gallery ..............................................D216 L'Angelus....................................................D3 44 Yue Hwa Chinese Products.......................C117 Lau Pa Sat ................................................. G318 L'Entrecote ................................................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p145)19 Maxwell Road Hawker Centre ..................D3 45 Beary Good Hostel.................................... C220 Nanyang Old Coffee ..................................D3 46 Berjaya Hotel Singapore ..........................C421 Spizza.........................................................E2 47 Chinatown Hotel........................................ B322 Spring Ju Chun Yuan................................. F2 48 Club ............................................................D323 Tong Heng..................................................D3 49 Fernloft ......................................................C324 Ya Kun Kaya Toast & Coffee.....................E2 50 G Hotel .......................................................B425 Yanti Nasi Padang ....................................B4 51 Hotel 1929..................................................B3
52 New Majestic Hotel ................................... A4ûDrinking & Nightlife (p61) 53 Pillows & Toast..........................................D2
26 Beaujolais...................................................D3 54 Saff .............................................................B327 Hood ...........................................................B3 55 Scarlett ......................................................D328 Le Carillon de L'Angelus ...........................D3 56 Service World Backpackers Hostel .........C329 Pigeon Hole................................................C530 Plain............................................................B5
CHINATOW
N & THE CBD
CHINATOW
N & THE CBD
202202
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Murray St
CookSt
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Ann Siang Rd
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Kadayanallur St
Mur
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OutramRd
Maxwell RdNewBri
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Enggor St Palmer Rd
Bernam St
Tren
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Smith St
Tanj
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Temple St
Kreta Ayer Rd
Spring St
Mosque St
Pagoda St
Sago LnBan
daSt
Chinatown
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OutramPark
OutramPark
5
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23
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‚To Baba House (250m)
CHIN
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N &
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CHIN
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203203
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AnnSiang
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UOBPlaza
RepublicPlaza
Ceci
l St
Amoy
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Club St
D'Al
mei
daSt
d
Malacca St
Chin Chew St
Nankin St
Battery RdChulia St
Anson Rd
Church St
Cross St
Shent
onWay
Robi
nson
Rd
Prince Edward Rd
Raffl
esQua
y
Colly
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Parsi Rd
Upper HokienSt
Market S
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Pekin St
Marin
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Boon Tat StRob
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CHINATOW
N & THE CBD
CHINATOW
N & THE CBD
204204
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Orchard Rd
Rochor Canal Rd
Bukit Timah Rd
Benco
olen St
Benco
olen St
Sungei Rd
Victor
iaSt
Prinse
pSt
Keng Lee Rd
Upper Weld Rd
Dorset Rd
Dunlop St
Klang Rd
Kampong
Kapor
Rd
Buffalo Rd
Mt Sophia Rd
T
Kam
pong
Java
Rd
Desker Rd
Veerasamy Rd
Race Cours
e RdRowell Rd
Hampshire Rd
VerdunRd
Chander
Rd
Albert St
Weld Rd
Mackenzie Rd
ShortSt
Wilkie Rd
Northum
berlan
dRd
Sungei Rd
Adis Rd
HastingsRd
Manila St
Upper DicksonRd
Hindoo Rd
Burmah
Rd
Perak
Rd
Mayo St
Pitt St
Hindoo Rd
Baboo La
Belilios La
CampbellLa
Race Course La
Norris Rd
Kinta Rd
Cuff Rd
Roberts La
Kerbau Rd
Birch Rd
Dickson Rd
Upper Wilkie Rd
OwenRd
Wate
rloo
St
Middle Rd
Queen St
Wate
rloo
St
FarrerPark
LittleIndia
Bugis
Church of OurLady of Lourdes
AngulliaMosque
TrishawUncle
46
68
5632
67
55
1559
41 5213
62
34
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205205
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KAMPONGGLAM
MarinaPromenade
Jln BesarStadium
Haji La
ArabSt
Muscat StBussorah
St
Kandahar St
Jln Pinang
Rochor Rd
Victor
iaSt
Lavender St
North
Bridge Rd
Ophir Rd
Beach Rd
North Bridge Rd
JlnBe
sar
Beach Rd
KallangRd
Ophir Rd
VictoriaSt
Nicoll Hwy
Pahang St
Horne Rd
Arab St
Rochor Canal Rd
Tan Quee Lan St
Kallang Ave
Tyrw
hittRd
Foch Rd
SultanGate
King George's
Ave
Baghdad St
Kandahar St
Kitchener RdAliwal St
Plumer Rd
Minto Rd
Bali La
Kelantan La
Maude Rd
Penhas Rd
Jellicoe Rd
Cavan RdHamilton Rd
Townshe
ndRd
SamLeong Rd
Jln Berseh
French Rd
Syed Alwi RdKalla
ng Bahru
Syed Alwi
Bridge
JlnSultan
Lavender
NicollHighway
Queen StreetBus Terminal
Lavender StreetBus Terminal
ParkviewSquare
Gateway
22
66
26
233
38
42
54
30
18
13
35
36
27
4
6
10
16
2444
49
7
64
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FE G
5
4
3
1
7
6
2
H
H‚
To Sri SrinivasaPerumal Temple (100m);French Stall (200m);Sri VadapathiraKaliamman Temple (400m);Hive (500m)
0 0.25 miles0 500 m#e
LITTLE INDIA & KAM
PON
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DIA & KAMPO
NG GLAM
206206
LITTLE INDIA & KAMPONG GLAM Map on p204
æ Sights (p67) ý Entertainment (p74)1 Arab St .......................................................F6 33 Bian Cafe ................................................... F62 Children Little Museum.............................F6 34 Nrityalaya Aesthetics Society..................C63 Haji Lane.....................................................F6 35 Sanctum .................................................... F64 Hajjah Fatimah Mosque ........................... H5 36 St Gregory Javana Spa..............................F75 Kuan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple...........C6 37 Wild Rice ....................................................B36 Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath
Mosque.................................................... F4 þ Shopping (p75)7 Malay Heritage Centre.............................. F5 38 Blog Shop .................................................. F68 Sri Krishnan Temple..................................C6 39 Bugis Junction........................................... D79 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple...............C3 40 Bugis St Market.........................................D6
10 Sultan Mosque........................................... F6 41 Celebration of Arts....................................C442 Golden Mile Complex................................H5
ú Eating (p69) 43 Indian Classical Music Centre..................C4Ah-Rahman Royal Prata ..................(see 51) 44 Little Shophouse ....................................... F6
11 Ananda Bhavan .........................................B4 45 Mustafa Centre .........................................D212 Andhra Curry .............................................B3 46 Nali .............................................................B413 Azmi Restaurant........................................C4 47 Sim Lim Square......................................... C514 Azmi Restaurant (Norris Rd 48 Sim Lim Tower ..........................................D5
Chapati)...................................................C3 49 Straits Records ......................................... E615 Bismillah Biryani........................................C4 50 Sungei Rd Thieves Market .......................D416 Café Le Caire ............................................. F6 51 Tekka Centre .............................................B4
Cocotte............................................. (see 67)17 Gandhi Restaurant ....................................B3 ÿ Sleeping (p147)18 Golden Mile Food Centre ......................... H5 52 28Dunlop ...................................................D419 Jaggi's.........................................................B3 53 Albert Court Village Hotel......................... B520 Komala Vilas ..............................................C4 54 Backpacker Cozy Corner ......................... E721 Mustard......................................................B3 55 Checkers Inn..............................................C422 Nan Hwa Chong Fish-Head 56 Footprints ..................................................D4
Steamboat Corner.................................. F5 57 Haising Hotel .............................................D423 Sankranti....................................................D2 58 [email protected].................................... A524 Tepak Sireh................................................ F6 59 Hotel 81 ......................................................D425 Usman .......................................................D2 60 Ibis Singapore on Bencoolen ...................C6
Wild Rocket...................................... (see 58) 61 InnCrowd ...................................................C426 Zam Zam....................................................E6 62 Mayo Inn ....................................................D5
63 Perak Hotel ................................................ C5ûDrinking & Nightlife (p73) Prince of Wales................................. (see 31)
27 BluJaz Café ................................................ F6 64 Sleepy Sam's............................................. F628 Countryside Café.......................................C4 65 South-East Asia Hotel...............................C629 Kerbau Rd Beer Garden............................B3 66 Superb Hostel ........................................... F530 Piedra Negra.............................................. F7 67 Wanderlust ................................................D431 Prince of Wales..........................................C4 68 Zenobia Hotel ............................................C432 Zsofi Tapas Bar..........................................C4
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212212
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æ Sights (p79) 12 Killiney Kopitiam ....................................... F41 Cathay Gallery .......................................... H3 Oriole Bistro & Bar ...........................(see 26)2 Emerald Hill Road ...................................... F3 Salt Grill ............................................(see 32)3 Istana..........................................................G2 13 Sun With Moon.......................................... D2
Ngee Ann Foot 14 Takashimaya FoodReflexology ................................... (see 33) Village...................................................... E3
4 Tan Yeok Nee House................................ G4 15 Wasabi Tei ................................................. E2
ú Eating (p79) ûDrinking & Nightlife (p81)5 Bombay Woodlands 16 Alley Bar..................................................... F3
Restaurant ..............................................C2 17 Curious Teepee ......................................... E36 Canteen......................................................D2 18 Cuscaden Patio ......................................... C27 Chatterbox (Top of the 19 Dubliners....................................................G4
M)............................................................. E3 20 Ice Cold Beer ............................................. F38 Crystal Jade La Mian 21 KPO ............................................................G3
Xiao Long Bao......................................... E3 22 No 5 ............................................................ F39 Din Tai Fung ............................................... E3 23 Que Pasa.................................................... F3
10 Food Republic............................................ E3 24 Tab ............................................................. C2Gordon Grill...................................... (see 46) Top of the M........................................ (see 7)
11 Iggy's ..........................................................D2 TWG Tea ...........................................(see 32)
ORC
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ý Entertainment (p33) 38 Plaza Singapura.........................................H3Cathay .................................................(see 1) 39 Scape ......................................................... E3
25 Cathay Cineleisure Select Books.................................... (see 42)Orchard ...................................................E3 40 Shaw House ...............................................D2
41 Tanglin Mall................................................B2þ Shopping (p83) 42 Tanglin Shopping
26 313 Somerset ............................................F3 Centre......................................................C2Antiques of the Orient ..................... (see 42) 43 Wheelock Place .........................................D2
27 Exotic Tattoo..............................................E2 44 Wisma Atria ............................................... E328 Far East Plaza ............................................E229 Forum ........................................................ C2 ÿ Sleeping (p149)30 Heeren ........................................................F3 45 Four Seasons Hotel...................................C231 Hilton Shopping 46 Goodwood Park Hotel ................................E1
Gallery..................................................... D2 47 Hotel Supreme ..........................................G332 ION Orchard .............................................. D2 48 Lloyd's Inn.................................................. F433 Midpoint Orchard ......................................F3 49 Mandarin Orchard ..................................... E334 Ngee Ann City ............................................E3 50 Quincy .........................................................E135 One Price Store..........................................F3 51 Shangri-La Hotel ....................................... C136 Orchard Central .........................................F3 52 Singapore Marriott....................................D237 Paragon ......................................................E2 53 St Regis ......................................................C2
ORCHARD ROAD
ORCHARD ROAD
214214
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æ Top Sights (p104) ú Eating (p104)Singapore Botanic Gardens .....................G2 6 Au Jardin.................................................... G1
7 Barracks Cafe............................................ E4æ Sights (p104) 8 Casa Verde ................................................ G1
1 Ginger Garden ...........................................G2 9 Da Paulo Pizza Bar.................................... B22 Museum of Contemporary Arts 10 Daily Scoop................................................ B2
(MOCA) ................................................... F4 11 Halia ...........................................................G23 National Orchid Garden ............................ F2 12 Holland Village Food Centre..................... B24 Rain Forest................................................. G1 13 Jones the Grocer....................................... E45 Swan Lake..................................................G3 14 Original Sin ................................................ B2
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15 Samy's Curry Restaurant..........................F3 22 Wala Wala Cafe Bar .................................. B216 Yee Cheong Yuen Noodle
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HOLLAN
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218218
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2
PULAU UBINPULAU UBIN
Shawn Low Coordinating author; Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays; Eastern Singapore Shawn grew up in hot, humid, food-crazy Singapore but later made his way further south to less hot, less humid, food-crazy Melbourne (Australia, not Florida). He’s spent the last fi ve years working for Lonely Planet: as an edi-tor, commissioning editor, author and TV host. Devouring chilli crab, guzzling Tiger beer and more in the name of research is a hard job, but someone’s gotta
do it. So he did. Who knows, he might actually be led home by his stomach one day. He’s on Twit-ter @shawnlow. Shawn also authored the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide sections of this guide.
Daniel McCrohan Chinatown & the CBD; Little India & Kampong Glam; Orchard Road, Holland Village, Dempsey Hill & the Botanic Gardens; Northern & Central Singapore; West & Southwest Singapore; Sentosa & Other Islands Six weeks of roti prata heaven was how Daniel described this latest research trip after basing himself in Little India and lapping up its curried delights, before fanning out to every corner of Singapore to compare the island’s culinary wonders. Daniel fi rst visited Singa-
pore in 1994 and always relishes the chance to return. He’s now back in Beijing – where he lives – trying to lose weight. Find him on Twitter or at danielmccrohan.com.
Read more about Shawn at:lonelyplanet.com/members/shawn_low
Read more about Daniel at:lonelyplanet.com/members/danielmccrohan
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – February 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 669 8© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day One Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays (p 40 )
M A stroll around this area off ers visi-tors a glimpse at the colonial infl u-
ence left on the city. Get museumed out at the Singapore Art Museum, the National Mu seum, the Asian Civilisations Mu-seum, or the Peranakan Museum. Take your pick – they’re all worth your time.
Chinatown & the CBD (p 55 )
R While the whole area has a tourist-trap feel about it, the Sri Mari-
amman Temple, Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Thian Hock Keng Temple are worth checking out. Wander around the revitalised Ann Siang Hill and Duxton Hill areas – loads of cool bars, restaurants and coff eeshops are kicking out the seedy KTV bars.
Northern & Central Singapore (p 96 )
N Come late evening, make a date with nocturnal animals at the Night Sa-
fari. Kids and adults alike enjoy getting up close and personal with the animals via the train-car ride.
Lunch Maxwell Rd Hawker Centre (p 60 ).
Dinner Splash out at popular Perana-kan restaurant Blue Ginger (p 58 ).
Day Two West & Southwest Singapore (p 109 )
M The Southern Ridges walk is one of the best routes in Singapore. Do
the (mostly) shaded 4km route from Kent Ridge Park, through HortPark across to Telok Blangah Park, going along the stun-ning Henderson Waves walkway before fi nishing at Mt Faber, from where you can take a cable car down the hill. Bring lots of water and start early to beat the heat.
Little India & Kampong Glam (p 65 )
R The golden-domed Mohammad Sultan mosque in Kampong Glam is
the centrepiece of Singapore’s Malay district. Radiating out around it are an eclectic mix of restaurants, shophouses, bars and the former Sultan’s Palace.
Little India & Kampong Glam (p 65 )
N A stroll through frenetic Little India will erase every preconceived notion
of Singapore as a squeaky-clean metropolis. Come weekends and nights, the place gets packed and chaotic. Stalls spill goods across the fi ve-foot ways and the scent of spices permeates everything. And if you can’t sleep, Mustafa Shopping Centre is open 24 hours – the place stocks EVERYTHING.
Lunch Eat at one of the nasi padang places in Kampong Glam (p 72 )
Dinner Tapas and drinks at Zsofi p 69 ), after biryani at Bismillah Biryani (p 69 )
Top Itineraries
16
Day Three Holland Village, Dempsey Hill & the Botanic Gardens (p 102 )
M A morning stroll through the idyllic Botanic Gardens at the end of Or-
chard Rd will calm your nerves in prepara-tion for the afternoon shopping scrum. The Orchid Garden has an amazing array of species and the Singapore Symphony Or-chestra performs for free some weekends.
Orchard Road (p 77 )
R You’re on a mission when you come to Orchard Rd. It’s shop till you drop
here. With over 20 malls to choose from, your credit card might fail before your feet. Retail overload at its very best. When you’re done, head to Emerald Hill for happy-hour pints.
Eastern Singapore (p 85 )
N Keeping with the theme of excess, Geylang is a seedy red-light district
juxtaposed against temples, mosques, and some of the best food in Singapore. Pick a local coff eeshop, order a cheap Tiger beer and watch the world go by.
Lunch For a casual, al-fresco feed, grab a wood-fi red pizza at Casa Verde (p 106 )
Dinner Order the crab bee hoon at Sin Huat Eating House (p 90 ).
Day Four Sentosa & Other Islands (p 116 )
M Head to Changi where you can-catch a bumboat to Pulau Ubin.
This is Singapore, 1960s style. Rent a bicycle and go around the island to check out tin-shacked houses and walk along the mangrove boardwalk. There’s even a mountain-bike park with trails for varying skill levels.
Sentosa & Other Islands (p 116 )
R After lunch, continue your explora-tion of sleepy Pulau Ubin with a
visit to the Wei Tuo Fa Gong Temple. When you get off the bumboat in Singa-pore, wander around the shops at Changi Village. This might very well be Singa-pore’s sleepiest neighbourhood!
Colonial District, Marina Bay & the Quays (p 40 )
N Take a stroll along the Singapore River. Start at Boat Quay: look out
for the grand Fullerton Hotel and grab a pint or two before heading down towards Clarke Quay. It’s party central here, with clubs and bars galore. If you’d rather sit by the riverside for a drink, continue on to Robertson Quay.
Lunch Pick a seafood restaurant around the Pulau Ubin pier (p 118 ).
Dinner Enjoy local hawker fare at the Changi Village Hawker Centre (p 93 ).
17PLAN
YOUR TRIP TO
P IT
INER
AR
IES
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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