ShopNotes Issue 003

8/12/2019 ShopNotes Issue 003

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b l l l f f l w u r v yMav 1992mmR Donald B.Peschke

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR D0~glla8 . E c k 5W U O I ~ r ~ eny . Strohman

rUUrrrNr E D ~ O R S Richard8 PeteraTim Robertsonamnv6 DIRECTOR Ted Krdicek

~ l rIRECTOR CaryWtensenluuanurnns Kurt hulkWill NiskanenRoger Reiland

c o l r r ~ ~ s v n ~ ou u r Robert H. WhitmerD E ~ I O ND I R E ~ ~ R en Munkel

DESIONER Jan Hale SvecP H O T O O W H E R Crayola EnglandSHOP MUUOER Steve Curtis

ancuur lon olamzron Liz Bredesons u s r w p n o n w n r o w Phyllis Jessen

c ~ ~ c u u ~ t o nv s r Jim Woodson~ l m r s r m o r ~ ent A Buckton

c o n m o r r r ~ Paul E. GrayA C C ~ N T I N O Linda O RourkeM O K E E R N ~ Julianne Spears

m m m r m m . Douglas M Lidster~ Y I N I ~ A T I V E-. Cheryl Sco tt

RECEPnONlST LO^ Seihel tS U l M l N O W I N T E W C E Ken G s t h

-nno D I ~ Robert M U R ~w U P P L I ~ ~mr DIR Cmdy Jackson

cwmuw SEWICE LWR. aura McNellyPROJECT SUPPUES Leshe AnnGearhartLmda Jones

T E ~ I O A I .ueporn Jonathan GarbisonSVSTEMS OPPR.TOR Llnda Morrow

R E C ~ O N I S T Ken Leem E R ERVICE

Jemlie 1,:nos (Supr.), M m i Nelson, JeffJan-. Joy Johnson,S us Johnnon,Ami Blanshan

snmm DLPUII~IEIIIJenyCarscm(Sup.), orb6 eehwR d d ong,Don McVey, Chuck C a r h

S+?pNolesa yuhlishd Linnvnthly .IIIIW,snch.Julv Sptrmber. Susrmban by W d a n i r h Catyo1 2205 Qmd Avc.. P s in* I A rb?lL

nghtsmerved.SubamiptiowPmgle COPY, 4.9K6Onepar Ub-pken (6issuea), 19.95.~0years(lZlssues),W6.96.CkdalFm gn,addM00 Wym.8emndClusPmtazepad in^^ DmMoms IA

A most every weekend inour shop somebody ismaking a project fortheir home. On a couple of oeca-sions this past winter the projectwas a major one aking newkitchen cabinets.In both cases,most of thejoin-ery for the cabinets was donewith biscuit (or plate) joints.Plate joinery is not used much intraditional furniture making. Butit has caught hold forprodudion-type cabinet work.Theideabehindplatejoineryisvery simple. You just cut slots inthe two pieces to be joined. Thenglueapressed-woodbiscuit in theslots.When I first tried it, my initialreaction was, It's easy and fast,but the joint probably isn't verystrong.I wasn't prepared to give upmortiseandtenonjoints for theselittle biscuits. But the resultingjoint is stronger than you mightthink. I was surprised ndimpressed.

There are limitations, ofcourse. Biscuits won't replace alltraditional joinery methods. (Al-though they have just about re-placed dowelsin my shop.)I'm convinced that plate join-ery is a technique worth addingto the tool box, particularly intwo circumstances. First, for cor-ner joints -like joining the fourcorners of a cabinet. And second,formakingmitered joints-as ona cabinet or drawer with miteredcorners.The only drawbackis that youhave to buy a rather expensiveplatejoiner to cut the slotsforthebiscuits.

A few years ago, the marketfor plate joiners was fairly lim-ited - t centered around theLamello biscuit joiner, an expen-sive tool from Europe, whereplate joinery originated.Now the field haswidened,andthe price has come down. So wedecided to take a look at fourplate joiners that you can buy forunder 250 (page20).

~ G S .side &om plate joinerythere are two jigs in this issuethat I really like. First, we cameup with a handy device for hold-ing your chisel or plane iron togrind a precise angle on a grind-ing wheel (page6).The otherjig that's worth someattention is the clamping station(page22). Even if you don't buildthe entire clampingtable, the lit-tle clamp cradle is worth a closelook (see photo on page 22).ADDITIONS.Every drawingshown in ShopNotes requires a

surprising number of hours ofcreative effort. The team thatcreates theartworkis lead by ournewly promoted art director,Cary Christensen. He and KurtSchultz have worked a lot of lateevenings since the first issue toget the artwork done.We wanted to add to the staffto help these two guys.We had tofind talented illustrators whoalso know and understand wood-working. Will Niskanen andRoger Reilandwerejust what wewere looking for.The whole idea behind theirwork is to spend hours creatingan illustration o you can lookat it for only a few seconds to getall the information you need.We hope you enjoy this issue.c l


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blip on Auxiliary Fence 4Thisauxiliary fence slips over your rip fence soyou cancut rabbets or support tall workpieces.

Bevel Grinding Jig 6Grindinga precise, even bevel ona chisel or plane ironis easy onceyou've built this handy jig.

Router Trammel 8Cut perfect circles or arcs with your router and thisshop-made trammel.

Tool Carry All 1A removable tray for small jobs and a storage tray fororganizing parts and hardware are just two of the fea-tures of this handy Carry-All. l ool Carny-AllPlate Joinery 16

Make tight-fitting joints quickly and easily by cuttingmatching slots and then gluing in a wood biscuit.

Plate Joiners 2A review of four plate joiners priced for the home work-shop: Ryobi, Freud, Porter-Cable,and Skil.

Clamping StaUon 22A flexible clamping station for gluing-up perfectly flatpanels and frames.Andit doublesasanassemblyarea.

Shop Solutions 26Four shop-tested tips: A Drill Press Clamp. ScraperHolder. Shop-Made Bench Vise, And a Tip for Storingyour Shop Manuals.

Toggle Clamps 28A look at these versatile clamps along with tips andideas on how to use them inyour shop.

Plate J o i n m page 1

Sounces 31Hardware, project supplies, and mail order sources forthe projects in this issue.

No


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J I G S N D C C E S S O R I E S

This slip-n fencemakes it easy tocut rubbe8 ortenons) on theend ofa work-piece. t alsoprovides supportwhen cutting tallworkpieces.

O n e f the quickest and easiestways to cut arabbet on the end ofaworkpieceis to use a dadobladeonthe table saw.To do this, part of the dadoblade needs to be buried in awood auxiliary fence, see photo.Clampingona wood fence is fast,but clamps can get in the way.Instead, I use an auxiliaryfence that quickly slips over myrip fence. And by making thefence ? -tall, I can use it to sup-port a tall workpiece, seephoto atbottom of page 5 .

The slipon fence consists of twotall sides held together with apair of spacer strips.SIDES Start by cutting two

s i es A) h m /4 -thick ply-wood. Cut the sides 3 longerthan your rip fence to allow forclearance(andfortwo stop blocksthat are added later), see Ex-ploded View.SPACERSTRIPS fter thesides

are cut to size, the next step is tomake the spacer strips B). (Iused plywood for these stripssince solid wood strips could

warp and twist the side of tfence.) These stripsare the samlengthas the sides,and exactlywide as your rip fence, see Eploded View.CRECK T check the fit

the strips,temporarily clamptfence together so one stripflush with the top, and the othis 1/8 above the rip fence. Thslidethe fenceoveryourrip fen

4 ShopNotes No


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J I G S A N D A C C E S S O R I E S

to see how it fits, see Fig. 1If it's too loose, carefully ripdown the strips. If you get it tootight, see the Shop Tip at right.Onceyou've got a snugfit, drillpilot holes, and screw the fencetogether, see Fig. 1.STOPBWCHS. To prevent theslip-onfencefrom slidingfonvard

during use, stop blocks aremounted on both ends to catchthe ends of the rip fence, see Ex-ploded View.

Cut a pair of stop blocks C) tothe same width as the spacerstrips, and about 1 long. Thenglue them to the lower spacerstrip sothey just catch the end ofthe rip fence, see Figs. 2 and 2a.

Then I rounded over the topcorners of the fence and sanded around-over on all the edges.CUT RECESS To use the fence

to cut rabbets, you have to cut arecess for the dado blade. First,mount a dado blade in the sawand lower it all the way down.Then slip on the auxiliary fence.Now slide the fence over thedado blade to cut a 5/sM-widee-cess in the inside face of the slipon fence, see Fig. 3a. Then clampthe slip-on fence to the sawtable.To cut the recess, turn on thesaw and slowly raise the blade,see Fig. 3. The recess only needsto be about 1/2 high since that'sthe maximum cut you'll need formost work with 3/4 -thick stock.

LUE STOP BLOCKFLUSH WITH END

STOP BLOCKTCHES TOP

EDGE O FENCE

LOWER STRIPfence is tadd strippaper or matape as a sh

A asy on and off This fence is designed so Extra support Onesideof theauxiliaryslip-onyou can slip it on or off your metal rip fence. And fence is leff smooth to provide uniform supportyou don t need clamps orscrews tohold it nplace. when cutting wide or tall workpieces.No. SbopNotes 5


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IG r L A dbT h e irst step to getting a ra- two d l e supportzor sharp edge on a tool is to a m B). To get the@ing this ig grind the correct bevel. A bench carriage(and the tool it-makes it easy to grinder c n do this very quiekly- self)closer to the grind-sometimes too quickly. ingwheel, heends ofthegrind A grinder cuts so fast that i support arms are cut atOn the tool isnlt held at the correct an angle, see Fig. 1 STOP BAR Later, when tor plane iron. angle, or remains in one spot too Next, notchesare cutin the top carriageis mounted to the cradlong, the bevel can he ruined. ends of the support rms to hold the angle of the carriage (aFEATURES o solve this prob- the carriage assembly rod, see thus the grinding angle) is a

lem I built a grinding jig, see Fig.la. ARer the notches are cut, justed by a stop bar C), referphoto. This jig holds the tool at screw the support arms to the Step in Fig. 7. Cut this bar athe correct angle while you slide base, see Alignment TEl, below. mount it to the base, see Fig. 2it across the grinding wheel. Iteven has a built in stop to setthe angle and to prevent youkeep from grinding too far.

TWO PARTS. The jig is made intwo separate parts: a cradle anda carriage assembly.

CM O L EThe cradle supports the carriageassembly (which holds the tool)and is clamped down in front ofthe grinding wheel. (Formore onthis, see the bottom of page 7.)To make the cradle, start bycutting the base A) to size, seeFig. 1 Attached to the base are

ARMTHIRD:

SUPPORT ARM 14 S C R E WSUPPORT2 N FROM END ARM TOBASE

NOTE:SUPPORT CUT ALL PIECES

ANGLE FROM w 4 / 4 STOCKCUT SUPPORT A R M S FROM EXTRA-LONG BLANK

CUT ADJUSTMENSLOTS TO ALIGNWITH CARRIAGEWhen the support arms are being screuled tthe base, insert the rod in the notched elzds ofthe a m o keep th maligned

ShopNotes No


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C RRI GE SSEMBLVThe carriage assembly is theheart of this jig. It holds the toolin the correct position for grind-ing. And it slides side-to-side, al-lowing you to grind a consistentbevel across the end of the tool.

Three parts make up the carriage assembly: the carriageblock, the support rod, and thepressure bar.CARRTAGE BLOCK The car

riage block is made from threevieces: a c m t w piece D) nd twokdi pieces ( ~ iee Fig. 3. Thesidepieces areglued to the centerpiece so they extend 1/4 abovethe centerpiece.Thiscreates alipto position the tool against.SUPPORTROD After g1Uingup

the carriage block, the next stepis to drill a hole in the block toinsert the support rod.

This round rod rests in thenotched support arms and allowsthe carriageblock to pivot soyoucan gently tip the end of the toolagainst the grinding wheel, seephoto at the top of page 6.

PRESSURE BAR To hold the pose of this strip is to fit between down to the cadageblock with atool to the carriage block, I a the extendedsidesof the carriage coupleof eye bolts andwingnuts,tached a pressure bar F), see block and put pressure directly see Fig. 4a. These eye bolts slideFig. 4 This bar has a filler strip on the tool, refer to Step 2 below. over the support rod. (For hard-attached to the bottom. The pur- The pressure bar is clamped ware information,see page 31.)

RRIAGE BLOCK APPROXvz FROM WHEEL RRECT ANGLE RRIAGE ASSEMBLRlNDlNG WHEEL

IGMEN DOWNPRESSUREBAR

Step : Center the cradle in front of Step :Slip theplane blade under the Step3: Whentheangle is set tightehe grinding wheel and remove the pressure bar and loosely tighten the the stop bar against the bottom endstop bar from the cradle base. Now bar. Now adjust both the angle of the the carriageblock. Togrind the beveclamp thecradle so the carriage block carriage block and the position of the tip the blade into the grinding wheis about v2 away from the wheel. blade toget the desired angle. whilemoving thecarriage side-to-sid>.. .No 3 ShopNotes ~. .. . .7L


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u canrout perfect circlesorAlly ou need s arcs by attaching this adthreepieces o justable trammel to your router.Besides being easy to use, this

t make trammel is also easy to make.thisadjustable There are iust two basic 1)arts:atrammelfor your base, and adjustment , seerouter Exploded View.BASE. The trammel base ismade by gluingtwo pieces of Ma-sonitetogether, refer to Fig. 2.

(In my ease, this is 6 .)But the length of these pieces Toallowroomformountingthe ploded View.) Cut both piecedepends on the size of cirie you router, the top piece is cut 6 size. Then drill a hole in the bwant to rout.To rout circlesup to shorter than the bottom piece. tom piece, centered on the wifour feet indiameter, I decidedto (Here again, this depends on the for the router bit to fit throumake the bottom piece 24 long. size of your router base, see Ex- see ExplodedView.

-24zOUTER TO ROUTERTRAMMEL

Fh OLT 1 BOTTOM PIECE DET IL


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SLOTS. After cutting the topand bottom pieces to size, thenext step is to cut slots down thecenter of each piece.Thebottom piece has a2 -wideslot down the middle that holdsthe adjustment arm. The top CUTTO FITSLOTpiece has a slot to allow a bolt topass through to lock the adjust-ment arm in place, see Fig. 3.

CUT SLOTS To make the slots, RM AROUNDfirst drill 5/s1'-dia.holes t o locate E LARGE RADIUthe ends of each slot, see Ex-ploded View Then when cuttingthe slots, stop about 1/2 before O CORNERSreaching these holes, see Fig. 1.(Thiswillprevent thewastepiecefrom kicking back.) Then finishthe cut with a hand saw.

To complete the base, simplyglue the top and bottom piecestogetha-, see Fig. 2.

ADJUSTMENT ARM Next, andjustment a m C) is cut to fit

the slot in the bottom uiece, seeFig. 3. It's mounted tithe basewith a bolt and wing nut (seeSourceson page 31 .

TIP.There's a trickto using thisarm. or small circles,mount thearm so the pivot hole is near therouter, see Fig. 3. For largecirlces, rotate it so the hole ex-tends out the end of the base. locatethe screw holes, seeFig. 4.

M O ~ N T R O ~ T E ~llthat's left Then drill countersunk holes andto do is to mount the trammel screwthetrammel t your router.base to your router. To do this, ROUTING CIRCLES. To rout ause the base on your router to circle, drill a hole in the backside

DRILL V4 HOLEFOR PIVOTFIN

of the workpiece. Then insert apivot pin (a short piece of dowel),and place the pivot hole over thepin. Adjust the trammel arm ndrout the circle, see Fig. 5.


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Tool Carry All

working allin one trip

S metiimes mistakes have a each piece. the bottom piechappy ending. When I built As I began off for the storathe prototype of this ToolCarry toss th tray worked well.All, I made the bins quite deep. I pile, I re o use this tecthought could get more stuff in the parts necessary to make a niquefor the version shownherthem if they were deeper. storage tray. Not only that, theBut after I cut all the pieces tray was sized to fit perfectly un DNSTRUmowand test clamped it together, the dei he ease and the ioiue& was started work on the Carrv Aopen bins seemed too-deep. So I already done. by edge-gluing enough ~2 -thdisassembled the caseandripped This method of building over- hardwood (I used maple) to maa 2 -widestrip off the bottom of size bins first, and then ripping two si& blanks A,G), see drawing at left.SmE BLANKS.Each U-shap

5v>I sideblank is formed in two ste~ i r s t , c u t a ~ i e e e 5 ~s~w i dyilong for the bottom of the Usee drawing. Then cut two piec3 wide by 51/2 long and glthem to the top edge to form thU sha~e.

5Le7> ~ote:khis reates blanks thare oversized to include enouheight for the storagetrayENDiDIVIDER BLANKS. Aftthe sideblanks are complete, thnext step is to glue up 1/2 -thi

5 stock to make fourblanks for thsn s B,H) and dividms Ca,drawing. (Notethep n directioHereagain,Imadetheblanksovesized forthe storagetray.

ShopNotes No


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F E T U R E P R O J E C T

EXPLODED VIEW

REMTRAY SIDE

C TCH

CENTER REM ABLE

STORAGETRAY 51DE

ENE

size ofdivider varies see text% x 6'h BOI 9.6 5q. t.

No ShopNotes 11


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7heCaseo join the parts of the Caw-Alltogether, I used a joint that I call

a hidden groove joint. Basically,this is a tongue and dado jointthat's cut in a way to hide thegroove forthebottom of the case,see box below.

o cut this joint, first eut shal-low dadoes in the side blanksAG) at four locations shown inFig. 1. o complete this part ofthe joint, cut kerfs along theshouldersof eachdado. (Notethepositionsof the kerfs in Fig. la.)Finally,cut onguesontheedgeof the sn s B,H) and dividersC,I)ofit thekerfs, seeFig. la.

C SEPIECES Now rip thecasesides, ends, and dividers sothey're 6 high, and set aside thewaste off the bottom for thestorage tray, see Fig. 1

Next, cut the grooves for thebottoms, see Fig. 2.B ~ O M S he center bottomD) nd two end bottoms E) arecut from l/s -thickMasonite to fit

in the grooves, see Fig. 2a. Fi-nally, glue-up the case.

ND CUT OTTOMS

ShopNotes No.


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FOR BOTTOM5TRAY DIVIDERAND TRAY END

CUT ye -DEEP KERFSFOR MASONITE DIVIDERS

Now with the case complete,work can begin on the storagetray.All of thebasicpiecesforthetray are already cut (they're thecut-offsleft over fromrippingthecase pieces to final width).

BOTTOMS. The only otherpieces needed are the tray bot-toms. But before cuttingthe bot-toms, I cut grooves for thebottoms in all the tray pieces G,H, 0 efer to see Figs. 2a and 3.After the groovesare cut,dryclamp the tray together. Then,measure the inside dimensions(addingV4 ) o cut the elzterbot-tom J) and two d ottoms K)to size from l/g -thick Masonite.SLOTS. The only additionalstepyouneed to dobeforeassem-bling the tray is to cut slots forthe tray dividers L). These di-viders allow you to separate thetray into small sections.Toallowfor avariety ofdividercombinations, I cut a series of

'/a -deep slots (kerfs)on the traysides and ends, see Fig. 3. Afterthekerfs arecut,glueup the stor-age tray.DIYIDERS When the glue isdry, the tray ivi ers L) can becut from 1/s1'-thickMasoniteto fitthe tray. There are three differ-ent lengths of dividers.The shortest dividersfit in theslots in the endsof the tray,refer

to Fig. 5.And the two longer di-viders interlockto form a grid inthe center of the tray.Note: cut all the dividersto awidth of 11/4 sothey won't inter-ferewiththecleatsonthebottomof the case. (Seepage 15for moreon this.)

OTCHES After the dividersare cut to size, I cut the notchesin the center dividers,see Fig. 4.Stack up l i i s ized dividers andcut the notches in three or fourpieces at once. Note: To stabilizethe cuts, screwan auxiliary fenceto the miter gauge.No. 3 ShopNotes 13


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Removable TmyREMOVABLE

TR Y SIDE

The Cany-All is designed with aremovable tray that fitsbetweenthe bins of the case. When thetray is locked into the case, thehandle of the tray also serves asthe handle for the Carry-All.SIDES Todeterminethe sizeoftrw, first measurethe openinginthe case, and subtract 1/16 &om

7 FIRST SECONDSET TRAY IN CASEGLUE UP TRAY

APPLY CLAMPS

WAX PAPER PREVENTS TRAFROM STICKING TO CASE

the length (for clearance). Thencut two removable tray sit esM), see Fig. 6ENDS The next step is to cutthe ends to fit. Here again I used

the hidden groove joint. So thelengthoftheremovabletray e9dsN) , is the same as the length ofthe case ends B) (93/aM).

HIDDEN GROOVE JON Withe tray pieces cut to size, thnext step is to join the pieces together.Todothis, Iused he samhiddengroovejoint thatwasuseto join together the case and thstorage tray, refer to page 12.BOTTOM Next cut the groov

for the bottom, and then cutbottom 0)o size as you did fthe case and storage tray.To ensure the removable trafitsperfectly inthe case, I applieglue to the tray, and immediateset the tray inside the case anapplied clamps, see Fig. 7.CH MFER EDGES After thglue is dry, rout or sand a sligchamfer on all the outside edg

of the Cany-All.HANDLE. With the edg

chamfered. vou can beein woon the handie, refer tosg .To make the handle, start b

cutting a 51/2 -wide blank of 3/4thick stock to length to fit the iside lengthof the tray (1215/16 ,my case).Then lay out and cut thhamile (P) to shape,see Fig. 8.To make the handle more eomfortable to hold, I softened thedges with a 1/4 round-over b(on the router table),see Fig. 9Note: Don't round over the ouside ends of the handle.Finally, drill a pair of countesunkpilot holesthrough each enof the tray and screw the handin place, see Fig. 9.

14 ShopNotes No


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ssemblyThe three sections of the Carry-All are held together with twopairs of catches. One pair 'locksthe removable tray (with thehandle) into the case. The otherpair holds the lower storage trayonto the bottom of the case. (Seepage 31, for sources of catches.)

Before adding the catches, Iglued cleats to the bottom of theremovable tray, and to the bot-tom of the case,seeFig. 10.Thesecleats serve two purposes.First, they align the trays withthe case and prevent them fromslidingaround, refer to Fig. 10a.Second, when the catches areinstalled, the '%utton on the topcatch protudes down below thebottom edge of the removabletray, see Fig. 11 When you re-move the tray and set it down, itwould rock on the catch. But thecleats extend past the buttonsto prevent this. (The same ap-plies to the main ease when thebottom tray is removed.)CLEATS Cut the fourcleats F)

sothey stick out 1/4 , see Fig. 10.Then glue two cleats to the re-movabletray andtwoto the case.C TCHES AND F m s a Before

adding the catches, I applied twocoatsof satin polyurethane.Thenscrew a pair of catchesto hold onthe removable tray, and anotherpair to hold the bottom tray.

CROSS SE TION

StorageRay OptionsThecenter sectionof the storage tray can be

the center divid-

screws and bolts.No ShopNotes


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I

Three quick steps to tightjoints. Cu t one slot cut an -other and glue n a biscuit.

e've had a plate joiner inour shop for severalyearsnow. The G y sborrow it for"production" jobs, like building

their own kitchen cabinets.But a plate joiner is more than

a production tool. any projectscan be assembled using just onejoint plate joint.Basically,a plate joint consistsof cutting two slots and gluing acompressed wood plate, or '%is-

cuit" into these slots, see Fig. 1On contact with the water in theglue, the biscuit swells againstthe faces of the slots, locking thejoint in place.

DV NT GESIn addition to being a strongjoint, plate joints also have anumber of other advantages.SPEED First of all, cutting aplate joint is fast. All you have todois butt the pieces together and

mark acrossthe joint, see Fig. 2.Then to cut the slots, lign thecenterline on the plate joiner for the expansion of the biscuwith the layout lineandjust push the slots are cut slightly longthe joiner into the workpiece,see than the biscuit, see Fig. 3a. UFig. 2a. like dowel holes that have to liACCURACY But the biggest up perfectly, the extra side-tadvantage of a plate joint is a sideplay lets you slide the piecbuilt-in "fudge fador ' To allow into alignment,see Fig. 3

UTT PIECES

W n H L YOUT

16 ShopNotes No.


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PL TE JOIN RTheonlyproblemwithplatejoin-ery s you need a specialtoolplate joiner. Basically, the joineris a plunge-cutting circular sawwith a horizontally mounted 4blade, refer to Fig. 4SPRING LOADED BASE. The

blade is enclosed in a spring-loaded base. When the base ispushed against a workpiece, thehlade projects through an open-ing in the base and cuts a slot.Whenyou pull the joiner awayfrom the workpiece, the springsretract and the blade slips back

into the base.DEPTH ADJUSTMENT. The

depth of the slot is controlled bypresetting a depth stop. Platejoiners cut to three depths thatcorrespondto three biscuit sizes,see Figs. 6 and 5a. There's also amicro-adjuster to he-tune thedepth of the slot.FENCE.But the key to a platejoiner ishow the slotispositionedon the workpieee. o position a

slot, the height and angle of thefenceis adjusted.B E I G ~ For most cuts, thefence rests on top of the work-

piece. Raising or lowering thefence positions the slot up ordown,see Fig. 6.

ANGLE. Both the height dangle of the fence need to be ad-

NUMBERS IDENTIFTY BISCUIT SIZE

EPTHOF 5LOT 1 5 WIGH

SLOT IN M E R

justed for mitered cuts, see Fig.6.To adjust the angle, somejoin-ers have a tilt-angle fence whileothers use a fixed-angle system.(For more onthis, see page 20.)

UMlT TIONSThe thing you have to he carefulabout s getting biscuit happy.There are times when a platejoint just won't work.

WI THO F m C K Oneof thosetimes s when cuttingslotsin theend of a narrow board. To keepthe hlade from cutting into theedge of the workpiece,the work-piece must be wider than the slotlength, see Fig. 7.Even the smallest biscuit re-quires a slot 21/at' long. Thismeans the workpiecehas to be atleast 21/4 wide oaccepttheslot.

No.


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Al l plate joints start out a s butt joints. Theonly differencew i th a plate joint i s that slotsare cut n both pieces t h en biscuits are added.

Face FameJointo join the cornersof a frame,I fence height to center the blause a face- me joint. With this on the thickness of the pieces.

joint, slotsare ut ntheendgrain Now, hold the fence tightof onepiece,and the e ge grainof against the marked face of eaanother,see photo. piece, and cut a slot centeredTo do this, align the pieces and the marks, see Figs. 1 and 2.

mark acrossthe facesof the joint, assemble,spread glue in the slsee box at left. Then adjust the insert a biscuit,and clamp.

SETTING f G UTS LO TIN W G E GRAIN

END OF WORKPIECEEXTENDS OVER BENCH

Corner ointThe only differencebetween acorner oint and a faceframe ointis that slots are cut in the en

grain of one piece and the f cegrain of the other, see photo.Here again the pieces are heldtogether and marked across thejoint line, see box at left. Then

adjust the fence, and cut the engrain slotsfirst, see Fig. 1Next, cut the slots in the fagrain of the other board. o prvent the fence m ippingonthnarrow end of this piece, I clamon a backer board to support thfence, see Fig. 2

18 ShopNotes No.


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ADJUST ANGLEO FENCETOMATCH MITER LOCATESLOTTOWARD INSIDE

U s i n g a biscuit to join the ends Second, since the ends of theof two mitered pieceshasa couple miter are primarilyendgrain heof advantages,see photo. biscuits help strengthen the joint

First, miters tend to slip out of by 'loc sing"the pieces together,alignment as you clamp them to- To make the plate joint on migetha-. The biscuits prevent the tered pieces, align the work-pieces from shifting when the pieces and make a mark acrossclamps are tightened. the joint line, see box at right.

Then, if possible, clamp eachpiece in a vise with the miter up,see drawing at left. (If the boardis too long, clamp it to the benchso the mitered end extends overthe edge of the bench.)

Next, adjust the angle of thefence to match the miter, and setthe depth stop.Tokeep from cut-ting slots through to the outsideface of the workpiece, positionthe fence so the slot is closer tothe inside corner of the miter, seedrawing at left.

example, when joining a shelf to right. Also, draw a linewhere thethe side of a cabinet. bottom of the shelf will be.

Theproblemis the fenceon the To cut the slots yon use theplate joiner can't be adjusted (it's two workpieces to alignthe plateactually in the way) for cutting joiner. To do this, clamp thethe slots in the middle of the up- pieces together with the shelf onright piece. the marked line, see Fig. la.

The solution is to tilt the fence Now slidethe joiner acrosstheout of the way (orremove it), and bottom piece to cut the slots in

L i k e the corner joint, a T-joint index the slotsoff the base of the the end of the shelf, see Fig. 1requires cutting slots in the en plate joiner, see Fig. 1 Then use the end of the shelf tograin of one piece and the face As before, align the pieces and guide thejoiner to cut slotsin thegrain of another, see photo. For mark the joint lines, see box at face grain, see Fig. 2.


20/32

late oiners

bought a Porter Cable plah'oiner for the shop a few yearsback. At that time, it wasthe onlyjainer in the $150-$225 prieerange. Since then several othercompanies have come out withplate joiners priced in this range.SoI decided to give them a try.I purchased four plate, or bis-cuit joiners: a Ryobi JM-100, anew Porter Cable 555, a FreudJS-100,andaSkil1605.Themostexpensive joiner was the Ryobiat around $215, the least expen-sive was the Skila t about $120.Basioalb, these joiners all cut a90 slot (in the end or edge of aworkpiece) the sameway. Infact,with the exception of the Porter

Cable's unique handle design,they even look alike, see photo.But there are clear differenceswhen it comes to adjusting thefences to make an angled cut.FIXED ANGLE. The Skil, Por-te r Cable,and the Freud allhaveked-angle fences. This meansyou c n only make two differentcuts 90 or45 cut.To changetheangle,youbave toremovethefence and flip it over, see draw-ingsbelow left and center.This is fairly easy with theFreud. The fence slides off byloosening a couple of wing nuts.But it's more of a hassle with thePorter Cable and Skil To reversethese fences, youneed to remove

two Allen screws (and washethat hold the fence to the baseTILT ANGLE. Ryobi seemshave solved the problem wittilt-angle fence, see drawinglow right. This fence adjustsvirtually any angle without ehaving to remove it.~ ~ E R C U T S .here's oneotkey difference between thfences-the way they lineupa workpieceto cutslotsinamitThe Porter Cable andRyobi trap the longpoint ofmiter between the fence andbase, refer to Fig. 1 In this potion, it feels Iike the joinerslocked in place.RIBS. The Freud and Skil jo

W T 45 CUKIL FENCEALSO

H S ALLEN SCREW6

20 ShopNotes No


21/32

ers use a different system to cuta slotinamiter.Theirfenceshave45 ribs that rest on the insideface of the board, see Fig. 2.At first it feels like these join-ers can ride up the face of themiter. But if you positionthe basetight against the miter, they domake accuratecuts.

T JOINTS. Another joint thatrequires a different setup is a T-joint. Onmostjoiners,whenmak-ing a plunge cut into face grain,the fence gets in the way. (Formore on this, see page 19.) Theonlyjoiner I tested that canmakethis cut without removing thefence is the Ryobi, see Fig. 3

OTHER FE TURESAlthough the fence is probablythe most importantpart of aplatejoiner, there are several otherfeatures worth considering.CHANGING BLADES. There'sno need to change the carbide

blade ona platejoiner very often.But when you do, it should he assimpleas possible.Removing the blade on theRyohi is simple. Just remove aplate in the base, press the spin-dle lock, and loosen the arbor nutwith an Allen wrench. The bladeslidesout the front of the base.Changing the blade on theother joiners isn't a s easy. You'llneed a tray to hold all the partsthat have to be removed. Evenwhen you finallyget to the blade,none of these joinershasa spindlelock button.DUST BAG. Another feature toconsider on these joiners is the

N FEN E ND

dust collection system. (Makingplate joints creates a lot of chips.)TheSkiland Ryobi are the onlytwo that come with a dust bag.The dust bag on the Skil workspretty well. But the Ryobi's is abit of a mixed blessing.The problem with the Ryobi iswhen the bag is attached, there'sno mom for your fingers to gripthe handle near the front of thebarrel- where the switch is.Also, the dust chute clogsupwithchips when the bag is in place. Asa result, I found myself not evenusing the dust hag.

m L E . Even without thedust bag attached, I have a hardtime getting used to the barrelhandles and the slide onloffswitches on the Ryobi, Skil, andFreud joiners. I like the more fa-

RYOBI FREUD ANDPORTER CABLE KIL

miliar feel of the Porter Cable'sD-handle with a trigger switchthat's right at my fingertip.

Regardless of the shape of thehandles, each of these joiners isfairly steady when making a cut.Thisisimportantbecauseajoinerhas a tendency to walk to theleft due to the clockwise rotationof the blade.PADS AND PINS To keep thejoiner in place, the Ryobi has arubber pad screwed to the frontof the base, see Fig. 4 I like thisbetter than the Porter CableandFreudjoiners that use two springloaded pins. Surprisingly, ridgesmoldedintothe plasticbase of theSkilalso prevent it from sliding.

CONCLUSIONSI've cut a lot of plate joints withthe Porter Cable over the years.And it's been a dependable tool.But after trying out all four join-ers, I h d myself leaningtowardthe Ryobi.The biggest reason is the ad-justablefencesystem.Allit takesis one simple operation to adjustthe heightandangle of the Ryobifence. In my opinion,that's worththe extra cost all by itself.

No. 3 ShopNotes 1


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Cradles keepthe clamp heads

upright, yetallowyou to

slide the clampsside to side.

ClampingStationGlue u p panels and f r a m e s .and get th em perfectly flat o n t isc lamping table. I t doubles a s aworking height assembly table.

By adding aplywood top,

you can convertthe clampingstation into an

assembly table.

If space islimited, the tablecan be wall

mounted to foldup whennotbeing used

til recently, whenever I had to glue ularge panelor frame,I started by clearinga large area on the shop floor. It was the only

surface in the shop that wasn t alreadypiled hwith tools or half-finishedprojects.But bending over to get the boards alignedclampstightenedgotto beapainin the back. Ittime to designa working-heightclampingstat

GLUE UPTABLE. This table provides a flatface for gluing up panels and frames, see phabove. (For a sourceof clamps,refer to page 31floorspaceis too limited for the free-standingvsion,the table canbe hineed to the wall. seebotI left photo.

ASSENIBLY~RE~y adding a plywood top,table converts to a good-sized work surfaceassembly area, see center left photo. And wyou re not gluingboards together, the pipe clamcanhe stored inside the table.

TABLE DESIGN. Basically, the clamping statis a simple wood frame with four legs. But thare a couple of features that separate it fromtypical glue-up table.CL MP CRADLES First, the ends of each p

lamp are attached to cradles that hold the claheads upright, sothere s no fumblingaround wyou re ready to start gluing,see top left photo.cradles also slide from side to side in rabbets binto the table frame.

SUPPORTRAILS Another feature of this claingstation is the supportrails (seepage 24). Thils raise the workpiece off the pipe clampsjenouehsothe edge of the boards is centeredonclamp screws. This gives a direct line of pressfrom the clamps so the panel is glued up flat.

ShopNotes N


23/32

The TopFrame.The heart of the clampingstationis the top frame. I made it wideenough to hold 36 -long pipeclamps, and long enough to glueup a 48 -longpanel.

The top frameactuallyconsistsof two frames, one inside theother. This creates a rabbetaround the inside edge, refer toFig.Za. This rabbet holds thecra-dles and the support rails.

Design Note: I used 3/4 ply-wood to build both frames. Ifthese frames were made out ofsolid wood, they could warp andtransfer a twist to theworkpiece.INSIDE FRANIE Tobuild the in-

side frame, cut the front, back,and sidepieces to size, see Fig. 1Then glue and screwthese piecestogether. To keep the table fromracldng, I added two cleatsacrossthe center.omsmEFWOcreate the

rabbet. cut the outside frame

GLUE AND SCREWFRAMETOGETHER.

4 THEN ADD CLEATS

pieces 1/z wider than the inside 4 ~frame, see Fig. 2 Then glue andscrew these four pieces around OUTSIDEthe inside frame. FRAME

~. . .- .~. .. ~. 'C *CmdIe5 :. z: ~ . . .

One of the most frustratingthings about using pipe clamps isthat the clamp heads alwaysseemto falloverjust whenyou'reready to tighten the screws.To hold the clamp heads up-

right, I made two cradlesforeachpipe clamp. The cradles are just

wood blocks with electrical con-duit holdersscrewedto them,seeFig. 3.The blocks can beany size,as long as they're tall enough sothe clamp heads clear the topedge of the frame, see Fig. 4.

The cradles rest in the rabbeton the inside edge of the top

frame and d o w you to slide theclamps from side to side.

TIP. YOUdon't have to use thewhole clamping station to takeadvantage of the cradles. Theywork great on any flat surface tohold the clamp heads upright asyou're clamping up a panel.

No

CRADLE RESTS

Ifthe pipe tuinside the coholder wrapstrip ofmasktape aroundend of eachp


24/32

Support ailsOne unique featureof this clamp-ing station is the support rails.The purpose of these rails is toraise the boards so they're cen-tered on the clamp screw.

Why not just lay the boardsdirectly on the pipes? As youtighten the screws, the boardstend to how up in the middle.Thisbowing canhe caused by anumber of things, from a twist inone of the hoards to edges thataren't square. But more oftenthan not, the problem is causedby the clamps themselves.PROBLEM. As a pipe clamp istightened, the pipe starts to bow

upin themiddle. If theboards aresitting on the pipe, they willcopy this samehow.SOLUTION. HOWdo you pre-vent this from happening?There's really nothingyou can doto prevent the pipe from bowing.

The problem is built into theclamps. But you can raise theworkpiece off the pipes.SUPPORTRAILS.That's where

the support rails come in. Therails elevatetheboards abovethepipes sothe how in the pipe can'ttransfer to the workpiece.Making the support rails iseasy. Just glue up two pieces of3/4 plywood, and cut thisblank tolength to fit between the rabbetsin the top frame, see Fig. 5.The only tricky part is figuringout how tall (wide) to make therails sothey raise the stock to thecenter of the clamp screw.DETERMINE WIDTH. This re-

quiresalittlearithmetic.Startbymeasuring the distance from thebottom of therabbet to the centerof the clamp screw (2l/4I1in mycase). Then subtract half thethickness of the stock you'll beclamping up. (For example, for3'4 -thick stock, subtract 3/sN.Then rip the rails to this width(17/a1 ), see Figs. 5 and 6.NOTCH.Thesamesupportrailscan alsobe used for thicker stock,

like 5 4 (11/16~~-thick)tock. Butbecause of the extra thickness,

A Support rails raise the boaroff pipes and center pressurethe thickness of your workpiecthe rails need to be lowered.

To do this, cut a 3/16 notcheach end of the rails, see Fig.Thenjust fliptherails oversotnotch rests onthe rabbet.

TIP. There's a side benefitusing the support rails. If tboards rest directlyon the pipechemical reaction occurs btween the glue and the piwhich causes black marks. Busing the rails raises the boaroff the pipe to prevent this.

SECOND:LUE-UPTWO PIECESOF 3 PLYWOOD

UPPORTRAIL

RIP SUPPORTRAILS

PIPE CLAMP6UWOLttM L

24 ShopNotes No


25/32

F E T U R E P R O J E C T h d

egs and TableTo complete the clamping station,I added four legs. Each leg ismade by gluing two lengths of2x4 s together, see Fig. 8.I cut the legs32 ong. But you

can adjust the length so the tableheight matches another worksurface in your shop. Or ust finda comfortable working heightand cut the legs to suit.AlTACH LEGS After the glue

dries, clamp the legs to the frameso the top is flush with the bottomof the rabbet, see Fig. 8a. Thendrill countersunk shank holes,and glue and screw the legs to theinside corners of the frame. Foradded strength, glue and screw1x4 stretchers to the legs.TABLE TOP, S an option, Y Uc n convert the clamping stationinto an assembly table. To do this,cut a piece of 1/2 plywood to fitin the rabbet on the top edge ofthe frame.Tomake it easier to li tout the top, drill a 1 finger holenear one edge.FINISH To keep glue rom

sticking to the support rails, you

can place strips of wax paper BROOM CLIPS. Finally, Ialong the top edge of the rails. Or screwed broom clips to the cleats,brush on several coats of polyure- see Fig. 8. This way I c n storethane, and apply a couple of coats the clamps when they re not be-of paste wax. ing used.

L G

a

No. 3


26/32

Shop SolutionsDrill h lamp

Occasionally I need to glue-uptwo smallpieces of wood. But it'salmost impossible to clamp thepieces together without thetwisting action of the clamp caus-ingthem to shiftout of alignment.

One solution is to use your drillpress and a hex-head bolt as aclamp. This allows you to exertpressure in a vertical line ithno rotation whatsoever.Todothis, first align the work-pieces and make a pencil markacross the joint line. Then, place

the pieces on the drill press tableand position the bolt about 1above the workpieces.

Next, applyglue and match upthe pencil marks. Now turn thehandle on the drill press to lowerthe head of the bolt so it pressestight against the workpieces, seedrawing. Then tighten the depthadjustment to hold the bolt inplace. This clamps the joint tightwithout twisting.

ClifffordB. HicksBrevard NC

Scraper olderI eliminated both of these prob-

lem with this simple scraperholder, see photo. It's just a scrapof 3/4 -thickstockwith a coupleofscrewsto hold the scraper.THUMBSCREW To flex the

scraper, I added a thumbscrew(availableathardware stores).It'sthreaded through the holder andpushes against the back of thescraperallowingyou to adjust theamount of flex,seeFig 1

center it ram side-to-side, seFig. 2. Now mark and drill a pilohole for a screw at eachend of thscraper.

The next step is to drill a hocentered on the holder slightless than the diameter of youthumbscrew, see Fig. 2. (Thway the thumbscrew d l ut iown threads as it's screwed in.)

To assemble the holder, screthe scraper in place and threaA hand scraper is a great tool CUT BLANK. To- make the the thumbscrew directlyinto thfor smoothing a workpiece. But scraper holder, start by cutting a holder. Finab, adjust the thumbkeepingthe scraperflexed canbe blank2 ongerthan the length of screw for the desired amount o

tiring. And the friction from your scraper, see Fig. 1 flex, see Fig. 1.scraping can build up enough DRILL HOLES Now lay your Wes Boultoheat soit's uncomfortableto hold. scraper flat on the holder and Ft Collins, CO

TH N SCR PERCENTERSCR PER 1% -LONG

WOODSCREW

ND SH RP EDGES

No


27/32

T I P S N D T E C H N I Q U E SShop Made Bench b e.ecently Ineeded tosandsomelong trim pieces for a project. Itriedtousemybenchvise to boldthem, but it didn't support theends of the trim To solve this, Ibuilt a long vise that clamps ontop of my bench, see Fig. 1.The vise is just a 2x6 that'sripped in two to form thejaws of SHOP MADEthe vise. The clamping powercomes from 5/16 threaded rods.

TEREADED RODS These rodsthroughthefrontjaw and are VISE CROSS SECTIONanchored into nuts set in pock-ets in the rear jaw, see Fig. lb.The length of the rods and thedistancebetweenthem canbe ad-justed to fityour workpiece. (Thelongerthe rods, the farther apartyou'll be ableto spread thejaws.)Tighteningwingnuts threadedon the end of the rodspinches theworkpiece between the jaws.

CUT 2x8. To make the vise,start by cutting a 2x6 to length.Then locate the holes for thethreaded rods and the nuts thathold them in place, see Fig. 2.

DRILL HOLES. Next, drill 3/8holes for the md. Then use a 1spade (or forstner)bit to chillthepockets for the nuts. To keepthese nuts from spinning whenthe wing nuts are tightened, setthe depth so one face of the nutsits flat against the bottom of the WING NUTS I made my wing a T-nut. The opposite side is bev-pocket, see Fig. la After the nuts from 1% -thick scrap cut 4 eled for clearance.holes are drilled, rip off the 2 - long. Drill a hole for the threaded omO Sullivanwide front jaw. rod and counterboreit to accept Fai+ld Bag R

BEVEL E N D SFOR CLE R NCE

Manual OrganizerAneasywaytokeepshopmanu-als organized is to use a three-ring binder. The problem is somemanuals don't have holes. (Andyou maynothave a 3-hole punch.)A visit to the local cr ft storewill solve this problem. Just pur-chase several plastic Craft BookHolders, see photo. Now you canfit almost any size manual into athree-ring binder.

No. 3 ShopNotes

SendLYou Sottlons /IM m, IA 60312. :

We ll pay up to $200depending n


28/32

ToggleClampst's face it, almost everywoodworker likes to build

What s the secret jigs and fixtures. However, onet buildingbetter of the difficult parts about mostjktures, or mak- fixtures is figuring out how tohold the workpiece to it.ingquickwork o Inmost cases,this meansusingrepetitivejob? clamps-and that usuallymeansToggle clamps. strugglingaround the awkward-ness of screw-type clamps.A C-clamp, for example, re-

quirestwo hands tohold it inposi-tion to tighten.As it's tightened,itc ncauseaworkpiecetorotateoutof alignment,and c nbe tightenedtoomuch ornot enough.TWOADV~AGES hat's whyI've come to appreciate toggle

clamps. After using toggleclamps on a number of fixtures,I've found they have two advan-tages over C-clamps.First, sincethey're mounted tothe fucture, you only need onehand &eeto lockthem down. And

second,when a toggle clamp is inthe locked position, it exerts apreset nd consistent amount ofpressure on the workpiece.

Toggle clamps don't screwdown. Instead, the handle is alever that 'locks at a preset po-sition,see Fig. l It's that simple.(For mail-order sources, seeSourcesonpage 31LIMITATIONS Basicaliy, thereare four types of toggle clamps:in-line,hold-down, pull type, and

squeeze.Thetwomost commonlyused for woodworking fixturesare the in-line (see Fig. la) andhold-down (Fig. lb).

Before you build a fixture, I'dsuggest you have the toggle

clamp in hand. They have a lited amount of throw, whlimits their application.ADJUSTMENT So how do y

adjust a toggleclampto exert tcorrect amount of pressure?F i s t , he toggle clamp is potionednearthe workpiece-mually so the spindle pad is o

about 1 away.Then to adjust the pressuthe spindleis threaded soyou che-tune the position ofclamppad to get theright amoof pressure.

SPINDLE THREADS INTOPLUNGER FOR ADJUSTMENT

LOCK MAXIMUM

I IN LINE C L A M PNOTE FOR HOLD DOWN TO LOCK.

MOUNTTO SPACER BLOCK

28 ShopNotes No


29/32

H R D W R E T O R E

Hold Down ClampsOf the toggle damps I've used, photo, when the handle is flippedfind the hold-downt m e o be the to the lockedposition, the bottommost useful. These ifamps come of the pad is evenwith thebase ofin a wide variety of sizes with the toggle clamp.handles that lock in either the Thismeans that the clampmayvertical or horizontal position, have to be mounted to a spacersee photo. block that's approximately theThey all work basically the samethickness as the workpiece,same way. As you can see in the refer to Fig. lb.

ROUTING SM LL P RTSWhen I ueed to rout smallpieceson the router table, I hold themwith a toggle clamp that'smounted to a sled. The sledc nbe moved up closeto thebit with-out wony.

Although toggle clamps usu-ally hold the workpiece seeureiy,for this type of application I adda cleat to each side of the work-piece to prevent it from twistingout of position.DRILL PRESS Cl MPYou can also use a hold-downclamp to hold small pieces to thetable of your drill press.

o make it easy to repositionthe clamp,drillaholethroughthespacer block and extend a boltthroughit and down through theslot in the drill press table.

Then thread a wing nut ontothe bolt, so you can position theclamp where you ueed it andtighten it in place.

RIPPING JIGHolddown clamps are ideal formakingarippingjig-used toripa clean edge on rough-sawn lum-ber. The jig has two (or more)hold-down clamps mounted tospacer blocks that are in turnmounted to a plywood sled.

To use the jig, clamp the stockdown on the jig so one edge ex-tends over one edge of the sled.Then just push the jig to trim aclean edge on the stock.

fyou need atr long spinyou c n use

No


30/32

h Line Toggle ClampsProfessionalcabinet shopsusein-line toggle clamps to assemblepanelsand frames.Just likehold-down clamps,in-lineclampscomein awide variety of sizes that canbeused in home shops,seephoto.

All in-line clamps work thesame way. When the handle ismoved to the locked position, the

extends straight out topress g inst the workpiece.Theonlytrickypart isposition-ing the in-line clamp so the spin-dle is at the correct h g k t toexert pressure where you wantit. To do this, you may have tomount the toggle damp to aspacerblock.

GLUE UP JIGIn-line toggle clamps are handyfor light assemblywork, likeglu-ing up door frames.In this application, a plywoodbase is made to hold the framebetween cleats. Then the toggleclamps are positioned to exertpressure at the joints.Positioning the damps maytake sometime. But onceinplace,it s just a matter of flipping thetoggle clamp levers.

HOLDIN SMALLPIECESAn in-line clamp makes a greathold-down for your radial rmsaw. Simply mount an in-lineclamp to a bloek Then screw theblock to the fence on your radialrm saw.Note: o ensure the clampdoesn t lift your fence up when

you use the clamp to lock downa workpiece,you71need to screwthe fence to the ront table onyour saw.

3 ShopNotes No


31/32

SourcesShopNotes Shop Supplies is of-fering some of the hardware andsupplies needed for the projectsin this issue.We've alsoput together alist ofother mail order sources thathave the same or similar hard-ware and suowlies.

Trammelshownon pages 8 and 9.Thiskit containsonlythe hard-ware, not the 1/4 -thick 1Masonite.(1) 1/4 I.D. PlasticWmg Nut(1) 1/4 Fh Machine Bolt1) 1/4 Hex Nut(1)Fender WasherS6803-200Router Trammel

l/z -diameter pipe clamps. Shq-Notes Shop Supplies is offeringJorgensen (Pony) pipe clamp fix-tures. This includesthe head andthe end of the clamp. (You'll needto supply your own piece of l/zblack pipe.)This t m e of clamois alsoavail-BEYEL6RINOIN6 J16 Hardware Kit $2.95 ableat most hardware storesand

TOOL CARRY ALL building centers. It can also beIf you would like to purchase ex- purchased from some of the mailactly the samehardware that we To make the Tool Carry-All order sourceslisted below.used to make the Bevel Grinding shown on page 10, I used four SS1307-250Vz' Pipe ClampJig.on wages 6 and 7, there's a kit brass-wlated catches to attach Fixture $10.95a'iilabler

Thiskit containsthe hardwareonly. You'll need to supply yourown wood.Note: The same or similarhardware is available in mosthardware stores or building sup-ply centers.1)Vz -Dia.Steel Rod, 16 -long(2)3/16 Eye Bolts (overalllength is 21/2 )

(2) 3/16 x ll/zl' Carriage Bolts.4) 3/16 Wing Nutsv (4) 3/16 Washers56803-100Bevel GrindingJigHardware Kit $8.95

the trays to the case. I also usedfour brass woodserews to attachthe handle to the removabletray.The catches and screws areavailable through ShopNotesShop Supplies.These catches (or similarcatches) are also availablethrough some of the mail ordersources listedbelow.(4) Brass Plated CatcheswIScrews4)No. 8 x 1 Brass Fh Wood-screws

S6803-300Tool Carry-Allardware Kit $10.95

T066LE CLAMPSShopNotes Shop Supplies is of-feringtwo types oftoggleclamps:a hold-down style and an in-linetoggle clamp, see page 28.Each clamp comeswith a rub-her-tipped spindle.The in-line clamp also comeswith a ll/zn-long hex head bolt.This bolt can he used in place ofthe rubber-tipped spindle for dif-ferent applications.Similarclampscan alsobe pur-chased from several of the mailorder sourceslisted below.

S h q Supplies is offering a kit of The Clamping Station shown on 66803-400Heavy Duty...................the hardware to makethe Router page 22 is designedto work with In-line Clamp $21.95

MAlL ORDER SOURCESSimilar hardware and supplies may be found in thefollowing catalogs.Please call each companyf m a catalog

mfm ordering information.Constantine's Woodoraft Woodhaven800-223-8087 800-225-1153 800344-6657Ca*, p Clamp Pipe Cla mp Fizture8 , PPlastaC W in yN ut slWm-es ggk C l a w oggle Clamps raftsmanWoodHighlandHardware TheWmd ' ervioe800-241-6748 Stom 800-5434367p C h p Fz&7es, 61242W199 Catches, i p Clanpooole Clamm P M l 5m Nuts. Fiztures

Trend-Lines C&800-767-9999 ShopsmiWWood-Woodworker'sSupply working Unlimitedue C l a m F W r e 8. 800645-9292 800-643-7586gle ~ l a k p s Pipa Clamp Fkkwe s, Catches, bOgk C l a m

ORDER INFORMATIONBY MAIL BY PHONE

To order by mail, use the For fastest serviceuse ourform enclosed mth a current Toll Free order line. Openissue. The order form in- Monday through Friday,8:00eludes information on han- AM to 500PMCentralTime.dling and shipping charges, Before calling, have yourand sales tax. Send yourmail VISA, Mastercard, or Dis-order to: coverCard ready.ShopNotesShop Supplies 1 800 444 7527P.O. BOX 42 Note &ees subject to ch ngeDes Moines,I 50304 flw JU@ 1,lsga

No. 3 ShopNotes


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