Sharp September 2011 Preview

16 s h a r p f o r m e n . c o m | s e p t e m b e r . 2 0 1 1

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Watch in titanium ceramic, a new highly scratch-resistant material. Its unique color and shine are obtained by the addition of titanium to ceramic and diamond powder polishing.

Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water resistant to 200 meters.

CHANEL BOUTIQUES AND FINE JEWELLERS • CHANEL.CA

SP J12 CHROMA_Sharp_Men.indd 1 11-08-17 16:08

SHARP » CONTENTS

What tony told amyTony Bennett, Amy Winehouse

and the art of storytelling.

hugh Jackman All singing, all dancing, all

Hugh. Plus, some stuff about

fighting robots.

hoW to Fix canadaA debate, of sorts, among our

nation’s leading minds.

original gangsters

How to rock a three-piece suit

like Nucky Thompson.

oh, adriana! Some well-earned praise

for one of the world’s most

beautiful women.

hollyWood style Connery, Hoffman, Dean show

us how to dress like a movie star.

Politicians With styleWe pick Canada's best-dressed

leaders, and offer some advice

to a few who need it.

gangster suits, the James dean coWboy look and adriana lima.

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108 102 92

for more CArS, WomeN AND oTHer mANly PurSuiTS, viSiT sharpformen.com

denim on denimDo the Canadian tuxedo right.

the sharP man oF style Joy Division’s ian Curtis was

more than just a musical

pioneer.

- FOB-Guide2.indd 16 11-08-19 8:49 AM


TH 0810_11 SharpCAN_September.indd 1 8/10/11 2:53 PM

SHARP » CONTENTS

an investment in cool The essential leather jacket.

sharp Woman Emma Lahana has a pretty

name—and a mouth like a sailor.

film & tv Shark movies, Carlos the

Jackal and the wisdom of

Ron Swanson.

musicHow Ron Sexsmith finally

became cool.

booksTaschen’s celebration of sci-fi

Soviet architecture.

48 hours: munichRiver surfing, beer gardens

and (of course) Oktoberfest.

foodThe best new restaurants

in Canada.

alcohol Canadian whisky makes its

triumphant return.

electronics Tablet showdown: three mean

slates for the mobile man.

style Briefcases, gloves, shoes and

boots for fall.

Guide

28

30

32

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

60

62

68

heroes of mensWearA salute to the men who care about

making you look good.

the Well-dressed manWhat to do with a trenchcoat belt,

the best way to shave your head and

colour for fall.

carsAudi’s newest R8 Spyder, Benz’s

redesigned C coupé and Porsche's

latest 911.

life lessons Sebastian Vettel shares tips on

driving...and seduction.

30 34 40

32 38 62

standards 14 Editor’s Letter 24 Man About Town 128 Where to Buy

- FOB-Guide2.indd 18 11-08-17 5:45 PM

The Gabardine, ToronTo

Slyly hidden from the packed sidewalks of Toronto’s Financial District, Alison MacKenna and Kate Rodrigues’ humble take on the gastropub provides much needed solace for the power-lunchers who populate the surrounding towers. Within sight of Old City Hall, the plush burgundy banquettes and mellow lighting of the intimate space make it an oasis of calm amid the chaos outside. Chef Graham Pratt’s comfort food menu is defined by quality ingredients, expertly prepared and served on your grandmother’s finest floral china. Cocktails are classic and concise and an ever-evolving wine list is intelligently assembled. Mandatory dishes include lavender-laced trout gravlax with

crème fraiche, stacked shrimp po’boys and the always-popular Ploughman’s Lunch. 372 bay ST.; www.TheGabardine.com

Le FiLeT, monTreaL

When Hubert Marsolais and Claude Pelletier (of Club Chasse et Pêche fame) decided to open a strictly seafood joint in the shadow of Mont-Royal, few could have predicted the splash—so to speak—that it would make on the Montreal dining scene. Since opening its doors in February, Le Filet has become one of the most sought-after seats in the city. Dressed in cool metallic tones, the space is designed to mimic the iridescence of the ocean, and is populated with fashionably dressed Montrealers sipping Chablis from

custom-etched stemware. Fresh oysters come in five options (from miso gratin to Bloody Mary) and should be followed by incredible smoked mackerel rillettes or fluke sashimi with Japanese plum, wasabi and cucumber. Larger plates are divided into cleverly titled categories (Earthly, Amphibians, Warm Tide) and standing out among them are the snow crab risotto and grilled octopus with marrow. 219 av. du monT-royaL oueST

www.LeFiLeT.ca

acadia, ToronTo

Inspired by the diaspora of Atlantic French Canadians, Matt Blondin’s menu at his one-of-a-kind restaurant traces their culi-nary legacy from Louisbourg to Louisiana.

The BesT New ResTauRaNTs iN CaNadaFrom the perfect low-key business lunch in Toronto to Vancouver’s best haute local cuisine, this year’s crop of new top-notch eateries distinguishes itself by showcasing our country’s homegrown finest—both in talent and in produce. – John Martin MacDonalD


SHARPFood

for recipes, restaurant reviews anD Manly fooDstuffs, visitSharpFormen.com

oyama prosciutto with smoked buttermilk and fennel at hawksworth.

reSTauranTS

- FOB-Guide2.indd 40 11-08-18 3:20 PM

THE BEST NEW RESTAURANTS IN CANADA

Described as “low-country” cuisine, Acadia’s plates are southern standards offered with inspired presentation and conscientiously sourced products. Start with the grits and shrimp or Northumberland Strait scallops with chicken crackling and move on to pork sideribs or red grouper with Gulf prawn étoufée. The list of wines and cocktails is inspired, including seasonal punches and progressive takes on classic drinks like the perfectly balanced State Lines (bourbon, aperol, sweet vermouth, Maraschino liqueur). 50C CLINTON ST.; WWW.ACADIARESTAURANT.COM

HAWKSWORTH, VANCOUVER

Uber-chef David Hawksworth has been the setting the pace in Vancouver fine-dining since leading West to instant acclaim in 2000. His namesake in the newly restored (after much delay) Rosewood Hotel Georgia has made a bold statement in an already competitive culinary arena. With his vision focused on seasonal fare, Hawksworth has crafted a menu to showcase the formidable bounty of the region. This, combined with the city’s most enviable new wine cellar and a prohibition-chic cocktail program, leaves

many in Vancouver scrambling to keep up. Decadent and innovative openers include tomato gazpacho with lobster and cotton candy to a foie gras parfait with green apple and walnut. Sample à la carte entrees such as the roasted sablefish with black garlic and tom yum broth or indulge in the seasonal six-course tasting menu with wine flights. 801 WEST GEORGIA ST., VANCOUVER

WWW.HAWKSWORTHRESTAURANT.COM

SHARPFOOD

FOR OUR COMPLETE LIST OF THE NEW BEST RESTAURANTS IN CANADA, VISIT SHARPFORMEN.COM

Refined comfort food on Bay Street at the Gabardine.

Montreal’s Le Filet serves up equal parts style and substance.

Acadia’s bar staff take their mixol-ogy seriously. Try the Mint Julep.

RESTAURANTS

Where passion meets performanceThe Audi driving experience is coming to Canada this

fall. Visit us online to learn more about this high

performance driver training program with stops in

Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver.

- FOB-Guide2.indd 41 11-08-19 8:49 AM


SHARPSTYLE

BOOTS

Before the snow sets in and we’re

forced to choose practicality over

style (at least, some of the time),

fall boots are one the most versatile

things you can add to your wardrobe.

Choose something in a dark brown

leather—either a Chelsea slip-on style,

or the more traditional lace-up—and

wear it with khakis and a chunky

sweater, a suit, or jeans and a blazer.

CanaLi, $495

TommY HiLfigEr, $298

mark mCnairY, $384

ErmEnEgiLdo ZEgna, $695

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SHARPSTYLE

GLOVES


While many men get by

with one pair of gloves

through the fall and winter,

we wouldn’t recommend it.

To say nothing of the fact

that your gloves should

complement your footwear

and coat, gloves frequently

get left behind on hall tables,

desks and trains, and being

without a pair on a frosty day

can be most unpleasant. The

solution? Just to the right.

1 bEn ShErman, $98

2 ErmEnEgiLdo ZEgna, $375

3 aPC, $200

4 PauL SmiTh, $450

THe CASe FoR muLTiPLE gLovES

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t1_Havana_Canada_Presse_203,2x273,05_Party.indd 1 11/08/11 13:23- FOB-Guide2.indd 58 11-08-17 5:53 PM

Politics

Literature

Culture

� inkersScience

Activist

BY GREG HUDSON, LANCE CHUNG,

LEE RICHARDSON, AND SADAF AHSANLEGEND:

SHARP 84

Canada2.indd 84 11-08-17 6:22 PM

ADMITTEDLY (and arguably), Canada has fewer troubles than our neighbours to the south, but life up here is far from perfect. We survived the recession in good shape, but debt still looms over the populace like a punishment.

Depending on how you look at it, we’re either the world’s greatest hope for politically stable oil, thanks to Alberta’s oil sands, or by the same token, we are a gaping blight on the planet’s fragile environment. We’re ahead of the continent in terms of marriage rights, but we still have our fair share of disenfran-chised citizens. And then there are the seemingly simple cultural problems that have always held us back in business, the arts, fashion and politics, not the least of which is our good-natured humility and easy-going, pragmatic apathy. Yes, things are good, but they could be better:

SHARP 85

Canada2.indd 85 11-08-18 1:43 PM

86 S H A R P F O R M E N . C O M | S E P T E M B E R . 2 0 1 1

BRETT SKINNERThink Tank Captain, Fraser Institute

Our biggest problem is the threat to Canadian prosperity contained in three words: debt, debt, debt. I’m talking government debt, consumer debt and exposure to foreign debt.

Canada weathered the global economic crisis that began in 2008 better than most developed countries. But our economic fundamentals are very worrying. After 10 years of surplus budgets, the federal government began running de� cits again by 2009. � e feds overspent revenues by $55 billion last year. Provincial debts are equally scary. Ontario spent nearly $20 billion more than it collected in revenue this year. Six of 10 provinces are expected to produce annual budget de� cits this year.

Taxpayers be warned, when governments run up debt today, they are just deferring tax increases into the future. Politicians are tying a huge economic burden around the neck of the next generation that is going to damage future standards of living.

To make matters worse, govern-ment borrowing competes with the private sector for people’s savings and therefore makes it more expensive for businesses to

raise capital needed for investment in economically productive activities. � ere is a lot of work to do. Governments at all levels must deeply cut spending to balance budgets. � ey should start by partially privatizing health care funding. � is could be done by introducing percentage-based

user fees and by allowing people to buy private insurance coverage if they want to.

Aside from this, we need public sector pension reform. Civil servants should be moved from de� ned bene� t plans to

de� ned contribution plans like most private sector employees. � is would eliminate unfunded pension liabilities over time.

Politicians at all levels should be looking for every way possible to privatize government services and

reduce the public service through retirement attrition and auctioning o� government-owned assets. Our political leaders need to radically reduce the scope of government and take the handcu� s o� the economy by broadly deregulating the private sector.

WELL, ENOUGH APATHY,we thought. It’s time to solve some Canada’s most pressing issues. To help us, and you, we got more than 20 of this country’s brightest thinkers, writers, fashion icons, business leaders, activists, and our one most famous sex educator to sound off on what—from their unique perspective—is Canada’s biggest problem, and what we should do to solve it right now. The result was a cacophony of complaints and solutions that felt like walking through the most interesting and contentious cocktail party in town: ideas bouncing off each other, agreeing, and connecting, even though no one was actually in the same room.

JOIN US AS WE MODERATE THE VIRTUAL DEBATE.

To begin, some levity:

NEIL PASRICHAProfessional Optimist, Author, The Book of Awesome (and its follow-up)

SEE: What follows

� e line between optimism and apathy too often blurs in this country though. Maybe it’s in response to the echoes of shrill panic wafting up from the country below us. Still, it’s never a good idea to forget optimism, even when we’re inundated with troubles.

SEE:Skinner, Brett

Like starting an Internet

tailoring shop. SEE:

See: Vucko, Kyle and Gani,

Heikal

It’s thoughtful to protect our children from

economic ruin; he’s not the only one thinking of

the kids SEE:

Kielburger, Craig

SEE: Levant, Ezra

(not surprisingly)

There are a lot of things that need discussion, discourse, and debate. But there is also some time needed to take a step back and just remember how many awesome

things we have to be thankful for. Who doesn’t love popping bubble wrap, smelling coffee in the morning, or fl ipping to the cold side of the pillow?

Tell this to her.

SEE: Westberg,

Carol. Well, actually, tell this to a lot of people.

SEE: Gra� , Gordon—it’s as if the only thing envi-ronmental dreamers

and conservative policy wonks can

agree on is populist distrust for govern-ment. At least that’s

something.

Canada2.indd 86 11-08-18 1:44 PM

S H A R P F O R M E N . C O M 87

SEE: Mackenzie,

Matthew

There is a big question of the

proper size of government. When

Stephen Harper took office the

government was about 10 percent

smaller in terms of civil service

than it is now. Compare that to

Jean Chrétien who actually shrank

the size of civil service; Stephen

Harper has vastly increased it.

That’s not just spending, that is

hiring people who then become

part of the baseline. Once you hire

a civil servant you are permanently

increasing the size and

scope of government.

It’s the moral issue, what

do you do for yourself in

your own life and what do

you source to the govern-

ment, and I think the government,

especially in the United States,

has exceeded its

proper borders.

The government

shouldn’t be the

default setting for

how problems are

solved, it shouldn’t

be the default

setting for who

does something in society, who

makes the decisions, who

pays for something, for

how you get your job. We

need a smaller government

and more respect for civil

liberty. On the economic

side, I would just start cutting. One

of my favourite things to talk about

is the CBC; we don’t

need a government

broadcaster any more.

Just as we didn’t

need a government

gas station anymore:

we sold our stake in

Petro Can. We don’t

need a government

airline, and we sold our stake in

Air Canada. We don’t need a

government broadcaster; we have

hundreds of channels on the dial.

There’s a billion dollars right there.

Our citizens are su� ering from serious malaise when it comes to what should be most important to us: our physical world. � e vast majority of scientists agree that our planet is in grave danger, and that humans are responsible for greatly speeding up its—and our own—destruction. Yet incredibly shortsighted corporate greed, combined with equally shortsighted and opportunistic government policy, allows boondoggles like the development of the environ-mentally suicidal Alberta tar sands to not just take eco-nomic precedence but become the cornerstone of Canada’s economic future. In other words, we, the citizens of this country, sit back, shrug our shoulders, and watch faceless greedheads speed up our demise while making hefty pro� ts from it, and us.

And please hear this: tar is far too thick to make for good trickle down economics. � e average Canadian sees no bene� t from the insanity that is the Alberta tar sands project: gas prices are higher than they’ve ever been; water, which is this country’s most fragile and irreplaceable resource, is being wasted in criminal amounts for every litre of oil steamed out of sand; and more and more multinationals are making the fantastic pro� ts that don’t stay in this country.

We are on the cusp of great change. But will it be for the better, or will this change be forced upon us through catastrophic failure of our physical environment? We are at the fulcrum’s point, and within the next decade we will either tip forward or tumble back.

� e simple fact is that Canada doesn’t need to exist as an oil-based economy. Everything about oil speaks to our worst traits as humans: the burning of it is incredibly harmful to the environment, and please don’t forget, we are not just a part of this environment but absolutely reliant

on it; the di� erent processes of extracting oil are becoming more and more di� cult and dangerous; and, believe it or not, the oil industry does not care about you, my dear Canadian, despite its media attempts to put lipstick on this particular pig. Oil companies are incredibly complex and powerful multinational in� uences whose only goal is to convince their shareholders that they can remain pro� table.

And so, simply, how do we, the people of this still great nation, begin trying to take charge once more? Because, after all, this is what we should be doing as members of the world’s greatest country, right? Shouldn’t we be taking charge rather than sitting back as spectators to our own lives and the lives of our children?

Canada, which once, not so long ago, seemed positioned to be the shining example of environmental stewardship as well as economic sus-tainability and growth, needs to � nd that moral, economic, and sensible high ground again. And this is easier than you might think. � e future of oil is limited, and the gas companies know it. Wind energy and solar en-ergy, to name two, have arrived, and wait for us like eager young geniuses in the wings. � e ability for every home in this country to serve as its own power engine, even create a surplus of renewable and low impact energy, is not some futuristic fantasy but a reality. We’re sadly addicted to oil. It’s no secret. But like with any addiction, the hardest part is admitting, � rst, that there’s a problem. And, yes, there is a problem. � e solution to this problem, this addiction, is to do what Canadians have always done in times of great strife. We have to get o� of our

collective ass and get active. We have to slap ourselves in the face, snap out of it, and put our foot down. Our future is short if we allow it to be gambled on oil. It’s time to take the reins, my fellow Canadians, not be the horse.

Although they wouldn’t agree on much else, considering Levant’s book, Ethical Oil, de-

fends the oil sands, this point was beautifully

articulated by a certain Giller Prize winner.

SEE: Boyden, Joseph

Counter point?

SEE: Beker, Jeanne

SEE: Gra� ,

Gordon

EZRA LEVANTIdeologue, Television Host

sharp fixes canada

JOSEPH BOYDENGiller-Prize-winning novelist, Through Black Spruce

Canada2.indd 87 11-08-17 6:22 PM

The 1920s come roaring back

GanGstersOriginal

GanGsters GanGsters

Photos: Clay PatriCk MCBride

Fashion Director anD stylist: luke langsdale

interview: lanCe Chung

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S H A R P F O R M E N . C O M 99

JD: When we start our

story, America is just

coming out of the war,

and a guy would have

worn a suit everywhere

he went. So, sometimes

he would have to be

more formal, or dress

less formal—he had to

consider whether he

was going to church or

dancing or to work

during the day. So,

basically, it was an

all-purpose outfit. But

America was doing

quite well in the 1920s,

and people, just in

general, would have had

more clothing in their

closets. So you would

have more options and

you wouldn’t have to rely

on three-piece suits to

take you to everywhere

you were going.

Gant by Michael Bastian

sportcoat, $798; Gant by

Michael Bastian pants, $398;

Brioni shoes, $595; Stetson

Stratoliner fedora, $142.

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s h a r p f o r m e n . c o m 113

t h e h of

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an★

Brunello Cucinelli jacket, $3,415; Brioni shirt, $595; Canali boots, $395; Burberry Brit jeans, $250.

Classic Hollywood Style.indd 113 11-08-17 5:54 PM

Documents

Sharp September 2011 Preview