This is the time of year when the Desert Rose really comes into its own – great splashes of colour lighting up the dry, arid, landscape. And the exciting thing about desert roses is the amazing colour range that is available nowadays. Blooms vary from purple, yellow, orange, to near black; some are double others single, huge flowers and tiny flowers and mixtures of all.

The Desert Rose (Adenium obesum) belongs to the Dogbane family Apocynaceae and is indigenous to Kenya. It is a succulent that stores water in its roots, making the plant remarkably drought resistant. In fact it needs very little care and attention, flowering well, even when neglected, but given a little water and feed it can be persuaded to flower most of the year.

It can be grown and do very well in pots, in which case a little bit of watering may be necessary – but

never overwater; the roots will rot and the plant die. Make sure that you use a soil and a pot that drain well. The plant can grow huge roots, to the point of breaking or distorting the pot, so it should be re potted from time to time.

They are fairly disease resistant. Occasionally scale can be found on the underside of the leaves but these are easily removed by hand. I have also found a particular yellow aphid with black legs which is fond of desert roses; especially around a

new forming bud. Red spider mite and mealy bug can be a problem and Kula miti beetle I am told is deadly.

Pruning is not necessary but, if you do decide to prune to get a better shape, try and develop a really bushy plant. As the flowers develop at the end of the stem, the more branches the plant

has the more flowers it will produce. Pruning is best done just before the rains.

Propagating desert roses can be from cuttings or seeds. Cuttings root well and this is the best way to get hybrids true to name. They are also great candidate for grafting.

One note of caution the sap of the desert rose is highly toxic. It is used to poison arrows for hunting. When handling the plants, take care to wash your hands afterwards. ML

The Chairman’s Notes MARCH 2015 VOLUME 2, ISSUE 1

Shamba Times Journal of The North Coast District, Kenya Horticultural Society

The

Plant of the Month - The Desert Rose

The other day reading his letter to all RHS members in The Garden, the editor said, and I quote,

"If you get together a group of 20 gardeners in a room and ask them for their favourite plants you are likely to get 20 different answers. The same applies if you ask for their favourite garden, their favourite book, or views on pesticides. It is this great diversity in outlook, experience, and ability that seems to me is at the heart of our horticultural world"

Well they may all be different but I do envy him in that he at least gets some answers! I am always asking our North Coast KHS members to let me know what sort of events they most like; what subjects we should feature in future courses; what leading Kenya horticulturist you would like us to invite to speak; etc. However I fear I and your Committee receive few, if any, opinions on how we can improve our events! I really cannot think

everyone is so satisfied with our annual program that no changes are needed! Indeed at the end of February we had a talk on Snakes in Your Garden which a record number of 85 attended. This compares with sometimes just 25. What made the Snakes talk so popular? Maybe the supporting cast of snakes was the lure but you need to tell us.

Similarly I have asked so many members to become a gardening journalist for a day and write on a local gardening subject for our SHAMBA TIMES but the number of our members who do put pen to paper or finger to laptop, are few. Yet I know we have many gifted writers amongst us!

So, as my opening request to every member for 2015, could you please think about what subjects and events you believe would add to the enjoyment of our future program

and tell y o u r n e a r e s t committee m e m b e r , or send me an e-mail, or maybe, p o s s i b l y best of all, write a letter for publication in our Shamba Times?

Finally, one last date to remember - WEDNESDAY 1st APRIL is the day to come to the DRIFTWOOD CLUB for our AGM. If you want to stay for their excellent KHS 1,000/- lunch, please confirm to Pauline by email before the 28th. March. Payment can be made on the day! See you all there,

Best regards and wishing you all a productive and enjoyable gardening year. John.

PAGE THE SHAMBA TIMES

C olor and innovation were on show at the flash big show gardens like the Royal Bank of Canada’s whose

designer, the delightfully named Hugo Bugg (27), had installed 10,000 individual slivers of concrete, to simulate parched earth, linking displays of blooming purple irises.

Veteran contractor Mark Fane explained that typically about 10,000 herbaceous plants are grown for each big garden. In the months leading up to the show, he uses 11 polytunnels, all at different temperature regimes, constantly moving plants between them, so they arrive in perfect condition at Chelsea.

The smaller Fresh Gardens included the Royal National Institute for Blind People display, a lovely sensory garden of touch, taste, sound and aroma, its living wall providing fennel mint and thyme for ice-cream sampled by Jerry Hall and Dame Angela Lansbury, while water flowed around and through a central lit cube.

Always innovative, the British were celebrating youth ~ the next generation of gardeners who were ubiquitous. Schoolboy Velizar Kirilov (11) was working the Great Pavilion at the Miracle-Gro stand, showing his latest growing experiment. He played music to identical plants in identical grow mix in different classrooms. Music-deprived flowers were ‘blah’. Flowers “fed” hip-hop music were more resplendent while a final pot fed a solid diet of Tchaikovsky was blooming to beat the band.

The other theme of this year’s Chelsea was a tribute to military personnel and the 100th anniversary of the Great War. Grenada trumped this theme by hosting Sergeant Johnson Beharry VC (24) who saved 42 soldiers in Iraq and has a heliconia named in his honour.

True to Oscar form, there is always a spot of drama at Chelsea. Judges pronounced on Plant of the Year from a shortlist of 20 species. While many focussed on an adorable yellow Georgie Boy narcissus, named in honor of the little Prince, this time royalty was eclipsed by Miss Saori, a pink hydrangea whose deep-rose margins, white centres, double

-petalled flowers and burgundy fall foliage do indeed say “star.”

Many in the audience, including our Chairman John Golds were captivated by the Waitrose display of British-grown vegetables and fruit. Close to 80 types of colourful produce, fetchingly displayed on different stands, showed that because of Britain’s micro-climates, they can grow everything from willow in wetlands to garlic on the Isle of Wight.

Belle’s final picture showed a profusion of colour in a British Border, considered by many to be “the greatest British garden invention ever.”

Oscars of the Flower World - RHS CHELSEA SHOW 2014

BELLE NANTON REPORTS on her visit to last year’s show. A hugely popular presentation given at Marion Langham’s on January 11th

RNIB sensory garden

Miss Saori Plant of the Year

Waitrose vegetables The herbaceous border

PAGE 3 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 1

Flower Photography - Part 2. Aspect Ratio. Peter Derry.

T he first decision is the aspect ratio of the final picture. This isn’t quite the same as the image in the camera as this will need to be cropped to fit the final required dimensions. The wall calendar is square while the desk calendar is slightly rectangular

and landscape. It’s important as each shape has a different dynamic, and a great photo will balance the structural content of the image with the dynamic of the frame. Square frame (right)- Equal dimensions make this shape one of the more challenging. The centre dominates the composition. Horizontal and vertical lines provide stability while diagonal lines make a more dynamic image, so a centrally placed subject will be stable, an offset composition will tend to be more dynamic. Radial compositions fit readily into this format though precise positioning of the subject is essential. Fortunately plants continually throw up radial structures. One extra aspect specific to the wall calendar is the implied downward direction of the photo that points to the days below. This makes radial downward hanging flowers particularly suitable victims for our attention.

Rectangular landscape (above) - moving away from the square frame immediately makes the image more dynamic with an implied left / right direction. A strong stable image is still possible by the central composition of a symmetric subject but by placing the subject off centre gives the image a dynamic direction. The open flower should point to the space in the photo rather than being pushed hard against the edge. Likewise any critters included in the frame should be looking to the space rather than out of the picture.

Rectangular portrait (right)- Dynamic like the landscape the portrait picture has a downward movement. The most comfortable composition will normally have the main subject towards the bottom of the frame. Wonderful for a thumbergia mysorensis but not quite what your average plant has in mind. The main challenge then is to counter the natural human response to start at the top and work down by making the top dramatic while making the lower part lead upwards. Plants commonly fit the portrait photo perfectly so a bit of imagination at the bottom to balance the action at the top can lead to some really satisfying shots.

PAGE 4 THE SHAMBA TIMES

Christmas on the Creek

Did you know?

B ougainvillea is seldom seen in f l o w e r

arrangements. None the less, the dusty pink ‘Natalia', white-bracted ‘Jennifer Fernie' and the lovely new ‘Ada's Joy' can all add a wonderful dimension to a vase. The same could be said of m a n y o t h e r Bougainvilleas. However, they do require special treatment to ensure that they last in water.

Pick stems of mature bracts on mature wood with grey or brown bark. Pluck off all the leaves, cut off the thorns and scrape off all the bark at the base of the stem to a length of some 10 to 12 cm.

Hold the scraped stem under water and cut cleanly with sharp pair of secateurs. Then plunge the stem into a container of deep, warm to hot water (no steam should be visible) to which you have added two teaspoons of sugar and one teaspoon of vinegar for every five litres.

Leave the stems to stand in this water for a few hours before arranging to allow them to perk up.

If stems need to be shortened after the treatment, cut under water again and scrape off more bark.

It is well worth the effort to be able to enjoy the beauty of these sub-tropical plants in the interior of the home.

A LITTLE BIT OF

ADVICE FROM THE GARDENER

MAGAZINE, SOUTH AFRICA.

http://www.thegardener.co.za/

Ada’s Joy

C hristmas Day lunch on Mida Creek. This is becoming a regular feature on the North Coast District’s calendar – and long may it remain so!

Twenty one happy people gathered (after a bit of a scamper from the Langham contingent, who broke down a scant mile from their destination) at the Turtle Bay Beach Club and were then transported to the resort’s dhow on Mida Creek.

Greeted by ‘ l e i s ’ o f F r a n g i p a n i a n d a d e l i c i o u s l e m o n y c o c k t a i l , e v e r y o n e settled down and we set off up the creek, amply plied with refills and samosas and avidly savouring the enticing aromas wafting up from the kitchen below. After a short cruise, we dropped anchor and then the feast began – barbecued prawns were followed by grilled lobster, beef fillet, and wonderfully moist turkey breast, with all the proper accompaniments. Plates were refilled – and again – and (in some cases) again. Then, for those who could manage it, there was mini plum pudding and ice cream. After lunch most people lapsed into a self contented daze (though a couple of stalwarts flexed their muscles and leapt overboard) but sadly the earth must spin and before long we had to go home. A great day – but what’s this?? Another cruise in March? Can’t wait!!.

PAGE 5 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 1

Fruits of the Forest - Giovanni Parazzi

W e all know the basic fruit family that we see in the supermarket - apples, pears, oranges etc. Some of us partake of some more exotic fruits. But there are some fruits you may have never seen in your ordinary supermarket. Many of these can be found in specialized fruit and vegetables stores, while others you won't

find outside their home countries (many of which are in South America).

Cucumis metuliferus, horned melon or kiwano, is an annual vine in the cucumber and melon family. This mixes well with homemade lemon/limeade, and is wonderful to cleanse the palate more gently than lemon sorbet.

Sugar Apple. A little larger than an apple, the fruit is round to conical, with a thick rind comprised of knobby segments. Each segment has fragrant, sweet, creamy white flesh with a single seed and resembles the taste of custard.

The Bael fruit has a smooth, woody shell., takes about 11 months to ripen on the tree, and has to be cracked with a hammer. The fibrous yellow pulp is very aromatic and is said to taste of marmalade and smell of roses.

Duku looks slightly furry and inside are seeded segments, covered with a white flesh that tastes sweet and sour. The taste has been likened to a combination of grape and grapefruit and is considered excellent by most.

The mammee apple has a more or less visible floral remnant at the apex. Size ranges from 10 cm to 20 cm. When unripe, the fruit is hard and heavy, but its flesh slightly softens when fully ripe.

Jabuticaba A thick-skinned berry, usually eaten fresh, very similar to a large black grape. The thick, purple, astringent skin encases a sweet, white or rosy pink gelatinous flesh. Not often found far from it’s source.

The fruit of cocona is a red, orange or yellow edible berry. Native to the Andean region of South America, where it is occasionally cultivated for human consumption.

Cherimoya. Mark Twain called the cherimoya "the most delicious fruit known to men." The fruit is fleshy and soft, sweet, white in color, with a sherbet-like texture, which gives it its secondary name, custard apple.

Breadfruit is usually eaten cooked. A common product is a mixture of cooked or fermented breadfruit mash mixed with coconut milk and baked in banana leaves. Whole stuffed fruits are cooked in an open fire

PAGE 6 THE SHAMBA TIMES

Snakes Alive! - Royan Taylor weaves a spell.

W ell, the day arrived – and what a day it was. I was a bit concerned beforehand that

turnout was going to be low. How wrong could I be! Thanks to a late flush, a good mix of some 85 members, gardeners, and visitors settled down in Royan’s spacious garden and listened in fascination as various snakes were casually waved in front of their noses.

Royan opened his talk by telling us a bit about The James Ashe Antivenom Trust and his part in it. Snakebite is an everyday lethal hazard in Africa but antivenom is expensive and a course of treatment could cost in excess of Ksh 150,000. - way beyond the pocket of a rural farmer. JAAT operates to make antivenoms available free-of-charge to victims of snakebite who would otherwise go untreated. http://antivenomtrust.com/

He then moved on to the meat of his presentation. Arranged behind him were five glass fronted boxes containing his subjects for the day. Beginning at

one end, he and his assistant, Charlie Wright, nonchalantly lifted out the occupants, many of them beautifully coloured, and talked about their habits. We learned that most snakes are not dangerous and that many have no venom at all. Given the choice, most will try and get out of your way.

As he progressed through the boxes the danger level of the occupants rose until he reached a beautiful green mamba, this time handled with due respect and tongs. Its venom, though not as lethal as its cousin the Black Mamba, is extremely toxic and quick acting. One of his favourite snakes, it lives in the

trees, catching birds and small mammals, but of course coming into confrontation with humans climbing trees to gather fruit.

One of the most impressive snakes we were introduced to was the nine foot python, ‘Bob’. Factually a female, Bob was 13 years old and lived on a diet of

chickens. Docile though she seemed, it took both Royhan and Charlie to hold her up for display. I noticed that, whether by accident or design, Royhan kept a firm grip round her neck.

The last part of the demo was milking a snake for its venom. The donor was a large Puff Adder which was extracted very carefully from its box and then made to extend its

fearsome looking fangs and discharge a dose of venom into a glass. Venom collected this way is sent to Laboratories in South Africa for processing and the production of antivenom.

Royhan concluded his talk with advice on living with snakes and the treatment of snakebites.

By and large, snakes do more good than harm. Leave them alone.

Rats and mice will attract snakes so good housekeeping round the shamba will keep numbers down. At the same time some of the

smaller harmless snakes will keep rats and mice away and so discourage the ‘big boys’ from moving in.

Low walls are a barrier to many snakes so an 18” threshold and raised sleeping shelf can help.

If you find a snake in the house, do not block its line of retreat – throw something soft like water or sand to drive it out of the house.

If someone does get bitten, leave the wound completely alone. Reassure the patient and take them to a doctor without delay. If the culprit has been killed, take it with you in a container, but do not waste time looking for it.

Emergency Snakebite Phone Number: 0718 290 324

It was, as usual, an excellent and informative presentation. We were delighted to be able to present Royhan with a cheque for Ksh 50,000 as a donation towards JAAT which we hope will help save a life somewhere. Anyone who has not been to the farm should check out www.bio-ken.com and take a trip to Watamu.

PAGE 7 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 1

Ask Maude Q I have enclosed a photograph of my Anthurium . As you can see, something is attacking my leaves. Can you tell me what is causing this & give me a remedy,

A On the whole, Anthurium don’t suffer from ‘dudus’. I think the problem with your specimen is to do with the roots. Your compost is probably rather too heavy. Anthurium are epiphytes (same as orchids) and need moist but well drained soil. I use a potting media of chopped up coconut husks. Feed the plant at least once a month and add a small quantity of Epsom salts every other month.

(Monty wondered whether the problem could be ‘sunburn’ from the sun shining through water droplets on nearby glass)

Q Something is attacking my Hibiscus. What is it and what do I do?

A At first glance it looks like everyday Mealybug - something Hibiscus is very prone to - but on closer inspection I’m pretty sure it is from a different branch of the Scale superfamily - which one I don’t know. Control with sysyemic insecticide or spray with a solution of 2 tsp cooking oil to 1 Ltr water. It is important to repeat the treatment every week until you are sure it has worked.

There are about 8,000 species of Scale insect, divided into some dozen main families, of which the Mealybug is one. They feed on a wide variety of plants, though particular species commonly are specific to particular host plants or plant groups. Most species are considered pests but some are commercially valuable as sources of cochineal dye and shellac

D id you know that, to an Italian, the term ‘al fresco’ usually means ‘spending time in

clink’? We of course know better. One of the joys of a garden along the coast in Kenya is that, for most of the time, one can use it as ones main place of

entertainment - for meals, for relaxing, for almost anything, so I really do urge all garden lovers to have a number of shady leisure areas hidden away in your garden. They need not cost a great deal

but they certainly do add to the pleasure of having a garden. Shown here are a few of those hidden around my rather untidy garden and, except in the rains, I seldom have a meal indoors.

If you already have such a favourite spot, why not send a photo of it for publication in the Shamba Times. Marion has already got the ball rolling with a couple of shots of where she relaxes and puts the world to rights.

JMG

Al fresco. Make every meal a Picnic!

PAGE 8 THE SHAMBA TIMES

Bromeliads - Part 3 Following on from Part 2, where we covered light, potting mix and planting, we now look at the basics of removing pups, watering and fertilising as your broms mature.

REMOVING OFFSETS (PUPS) Most bromeliads self-propagate by producing offsets, commonly known as ‘pups’ from around their stem or root areas. This normally happens when they mature near or after flowering, as they attempt to create offspring that will continue to grow after the mother plant slowly dies, post flowering. However, it can also occur any time when the plant is stressed or has a change in environment that triggers the plant to produce pups or flower before maturity.

Basically all pups can be removed either by cutting or pulling them gently off the mother plant. As a general rule, wait until the pup is around a third to half the size of the mother before removing it. They will grow much faster when still attached, so the longer they are left on, the better. There are four main types of pups you will have to deal with as follows.

(a) Basal

If the pup is emerging from the basal root area or inside one of the bottom leaves, firstly remove the plant from the pot or ground. If the pup is joined to the root ball, remove any soil and cut off the pup as close as possible to the mother, trying to retain any small roots that have formed on the pup’s base. For pups that emerge within the lower leaf axils, remove the leaves BELOW the pup by splitting and pulling them to the sides to expose where the pup joins the mother. These types of pups often have a natural ‘joint’ where the pup’s base forms very close to the plant. If the pup can be gently pulled downwards and twisted without squeezing its stem, it will often come off quite easily without using a knife at all (see accompanying photos). However, this may be difficult with very large pups that are tightly connected to the mother. In this case, a thin serrated knife or saw can be inserted between the pup and mother and a cut made down towards the roots, taking care not to cut through the stem of both mother and pup.

(b) Stoloniferous

If the pup has long, woody stolons, they can easily be cut close to the mother using secateurs, or a sharp serated knife or saw. The stolons can then also be trimmed further close to the pup if required, before planting or mounting.

(c) Axial Some bromeliads form their pups very high up the stem of the plant in the central leaves close to the inflorescence. These must be removed with great care, also using a sharp knife with minimal cutting into the stem of the mother. Most of these plants only produce one

or two pups before dying, so it sometimes best to leave the pups in-situ, so they eventually grow through the mother.

(d) Adventitious

Other varieties (mainly in the Vriesea and Alcantarea genera) produce tiny adventitious or ‘grass’ pups from the basal area. This normally occurs when the mother plant is very young and sometimes these are the ONLY pups the plant will have. Therefore, it is a good idea to remove them when the grass pups are quite small (between 8-12cm long) and grow them on as you would a seedling in fine mix, with regular water and fertiliser in a warm and sheltered area.

The critical point to remember when removing any type of pup, is NOT to cut into or damage the soft white tissue in the base or stem of the pup or the mother, as this is the ‘live’ growing tissue that forms roots and leaves. Rotting and/or infection of the base or centre of the plant is highly likely if this occurs, or it may take a long time to recover – so take extreme care!

WATERING Most bromeliads like humidity and moisture to grow well, so it is important to look at their growing environment to ensure they are getting regular water. Broms growing in the garden will normally only need watering during hot summer months. Check the centre cups and soil moisture each week to ensure they are not dried out. Rain during the cooler seasons is all they will need to survive, so there is no need to water them at this time unless direct sun is drying them out. For broms in pots, inside or in greenhouses that do not get rain, again regular checking is necessary and some prudent watering may need to be done during the colder months as well – but DON’T overdo it! Too much water in cold weather can exacerbate fungal growth and promote ‘cold damage’ marks on the leaves. In winter, keep water in the centre cups and leaves to a minimal level and try to let the pot soil dry out between waterings.

As a general rule, water each plant until the cups and leaves just overflow and

A typical vriesea with lower leaves removed, exposing the pup.

Twist and gently pull the pup away from the mother to remove.

Close up of the pup showing new roots intact and minimal damage to the base.

PAGE 9 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 1

Careful now! It’s made of Glass!! ····· The avocado looks good enough to eat, as do the banana, six figs on a stem, mango, papaya, and cashew nuts. There is one catch though: they are all made of glass. These, together with 4,434 other exquisite botanical pieces, form Glass Flowers, a permanent collection that is joined this spring at the Harvard Museum of Natural History ·····

····· in 1886, came the commission from Professor George Lincoln Goodale, first director of the Botanical Museum at Harvard, signing Blaschka and his son, Rudolf, to a 10-year contract to work exclusively for the university creating glass botanical flora for teaching purposes. The collection of 4,400 models of 847 different plant species — bankrolled by an American mother-daughter team, Elizabeth and Mary Lee Ware — now resides in the museum. Legendary glass

artist Dale Chihuly, who credits the Blaschkas with inspiring his ikebana work, has said that when he saw their glass flowers at Harvard, he had “no concept how the artists made them.” ·····

····· One person who can relate to the Blaschkas’ talent is preservation specialist Elizabeth Brill. Since 1994, she has restored 1,100 Blaschka marine invertebrates in three collections for the museum.

water runs out the bottom of the pot. Soil should be moist, but not soaking wet and the pot should never sit in water. One other thing to remember in summer, is to run your hose well before watering. The water in garden hoses can get very hot in summer and will badly scold and even kill broms.

FERTILISING Fertiliser for bromeliads is a much debated and complex issue, as it can have such an huge effect on the appearance of the plant – both good and bad. Most broms grow perfectly well WITHOUT applications of any artificial fertiliser. Remember, the ‘tank’ types are well adapted to collecting nutrients in their cups and leaf axils. However, it is generally accepted that some fertiliser does help young pups grow roots and get well established -and also helps maturing plants to look their best. The trick is to find the right methods and type of fertiliser for your plants – as many of them have different nutrient

requirements and growers have differing preferences as to how certain plants should look.

Without getting too complex, the more fertiliser that is applied - the larger and greener the plants will normally be. The leaves will probably also be longer and thinner, than if no fertiliser is used.

As a general rule, plants with soft, green leaves respond well to fertiliser, whereas shorter, darker/coloured leaves will normally look better with NONE at all. Therefore, look carefully at your types of broms, the colours, sizes and form they have – and decide which ones would benefit from fertiliser and which ones wouldn’t. One size (amount of fertiliser) does not fit all ! If in doubt, ask an experienced grower.

The best method of fertilising for beginners is to use 6-12 month slow release pellets (eg; Osmocote). Select a type which is medium/low in Nitrogen (N) very low in Phosphorus (P) but quite high in Potassium (K). Look for the ‘NPK’ ratio, which should be

something like 14 : 4 : 24 (that is N=14 / P=4 / K=24), where the ‘K’ ratio is near twice that of the ‘N’. Simply mix a small teaspoon of pellets into the soil when planting a pup and from then on a small teaspoon around the soil surface each spring. This is normally sufficient for most broms to look good and grow well throughout the year.

The slow release method is less likely to cause problems with form, colour change and burning of the plant, than if regular ‘foliar spray ’ feeding is undertaken. The foliar method is best left for more experienced growers or until you are sure how your plants respond to fertiliser in your growing environment.

Next in Part 4 we’ll look at controlling common diseases and pests and protecting your broms from the sun and frost.

(Continued from page 8)

Blaschka Model 529 of the Echinocereus engelmannii, created by both Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka in 1895. Photo by Hillel Burger.

A case showing part of the Glass Flowers collection on display at the Harvard Museum of Natural history. Photo by Alec Villapando.

BELLE NANTON VISITED THE HARVARD MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY Here we get a glimpse of what she saw, courtesy of Nuvo Magazine, Vancouver

A full version of this report can be viewed on http://nuvomagazine.com/magazine/autumn-2014/botanical-wonders

PAGE 10 THE SHAMBA TIMES

Gardeners Course 2015 Grow plants from Seed The Gardeners Course this year will be in two parts.

Part I will be over the period 14, 15, 16 April - Tues 14th, 9.30 am at Marion’s house, Kilifi; Wed 15th 9.30 am at John’s house, Watamu; and Thurs 16th in Malindi (Venue to be decided). The theme this year will be ‘Growing from Seed’. Students will be instructed on preparing the growing medium, sowing the seeds, watering, pricking out and thinning, aftercare, and harvesting. At the end of the course, they will be given a selection of seeds and told to go away and practice what they have learned.

Over time, we will try and visit each garden to measure their success

Part II will be held in early September when students will be recalled to report on what they have achieved. They will also be given a general gardening exam to test their overall knowledge. Finally we will cover the care and propagation of epiphytes.

The fee for each Part will be 1000/= per gardener. Please book with and pay your local Committee Member as soon as possible

Kilifi Marion (marion.langham@kenyahs.com) Rupert (rupert.partridge@kenyaks.com) Watamu John (jmgolds@me.com) Malindi Holly (hahmalindi@gmail.com) M-Pesa 0702 767177

2015 Subs Will all those members who have not yet paid their 2015 Membership Fees, please do so without delay. It is very easy -

Cheque in favour of the Kenya Horticultural Society given to any Committee Member or posted to PO Box 649 - 80108, Kilifi or - M-Pesa to 0702 767177, held in the name of Rupert Partridge

It’s 1300/= per couple; 1000/= per single person; 500/= per Member’s gardener. Corporate Membership is 2000/=

Do it now, whilst you think of it!

Notice Board Gallery

Bougainvillea Chris Betts The sheer profusion of flowers is quite stunning

Pentas lanceolata

Marion Langham

Habrathus mas Marion Langham A flush after the rain

Fernandoa magnifica Marion Langham See it in John Golds garden

PAGE 11 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 1

The Shamba Times is published quarterly for the benefit of it’s Members by the North Coast District of The Kenya Horticultural Society. Articles for publication are welcome and should be addressed to the Editorial Office, as should any comments, suggestions, or corrections.

The Kenya Horticultural Society was established in 1923 for the purpose of stimulating and increasing interest and knowledge of gardens and plants in Kenya. The North Coast District extends from Vipingo in the South to Malindi in the North. Annual membership is Ksh 1000 per person (Ksh 1300 per couple). Corporate Membership is offered at Ksh 2000. Members gardeners are accepted for limited membership at a fee of Ksh 500 per annum.

M-Pesa payments can be made on 0702 767177

Officers of The North Coast District Chairman Mr John Golds jmgolds@me.com

Vice Chairman Marion Lady Langham marion.langham@kenyahs.com

Hon Sec Mrs Pauline Balletto pauline.balletto@kenyahs.com

Hon Treasurer Mr Rupert Partridge rupert.partridge@kenyahs.com

Editorial The Shamba Times PO Box 143 - 80108 Kilifi Kenya © Shamba Times 2015

Contact Mob:- +254 (0)732 610047 marion.langham@kenyahs.com

For your Diary Editorial This is the First Anniversary edition of the Shamba Times and I think the format and style are now settling down quite well. In this issue we continue our series on Bromeliads and Flower Photography. Also John has promised us a bit more on Ponds but we are saving that for another time. I am pleased to say that we are slowly getting the odd contribution from our readers and I hope that will build up into a regular forum of stimulating letters for publication. Another regular we would like to keep going is ‘Where it all began’ so let us into your memories and tell us how you became a gardener.

A new idea we are going to try out is a Photo Gallery in each issue with a prize for the best picture awarded at the end of the year - so please send us your pictures on any horticultural subject and we will try and find room for it. I’ve pinned a few below and opposite. Enjoy

APRIL WEDNESDAY, 1ST APRIL AT 10.30 AM

DISTRICT AGM FOLLOWED BY ELEPHANTS AND BEES The Annual General Meeting this year will again be held at The Driftwood Club, Malindi, commencing at 10.30 AM sharp.. Then, our speaker, Dr Lucy King, MSc. DPhil., will deliver a PowerPoint presentation on the relationship between elephants and bees and how the latter are being used to control the ravages of the former. Dr King is the Leader of the Elephant and Bees Project which itself is sponsored by Save the Elephants. After the meeting, the Raffle will be drawn and then, those who have booked will adjourn to the dining area for lunch. If you wish to book in for the KHS 3 course lunch, the cost will be 1000/- and you need to confirm with Holly at hahmalindi@gmail.com by 28th. March. Payment can be made on the day.

MAY THURSDAY 28TH MAY (PROVISIONAL)

FRUIT TREE PRUNING At David Green's farm, Kilifi, a talk and practical demonstration by David’s headman on growing, grafting and pruning fruit trees at the coast. Confirmation and further details by email in due course.

JUNE (PROVISIONAL)

CARBON CREDITS BY JAMIE HENDRICKSON A rescheduling of the talk that should have taken place on March 14th. Venue and timings, etc will be publicised by email in due course.

JULY (PROVISIONAL)

VISIT THREE MOMBASA GARDENS Full details to follow.

Bromeliad Buddy David Nanton This little chap is the gardeners friend. Though he may eat a tender shoot from time to time, his main diet is insects and the occasional geko

Kenya Horticultural Society Find us on the Web

www.kenyahs.com