zip top purse

a sewing pattern by

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zip top pursesewing tutorial

zip top purse

difficulty:

before you begin:

makes:

materials & tools• Fabricpaint,freezerpaper,and

otherfabricstencilsuppliesOR• Appliquésupplies:

• 5”x5”scrapofappliquéfabric• 5”x5”scrapoflightorheavy

dutyfusibleweb• Matchingsewingthread• Basicsewingtools(sewingmachine,

scissors,iron,needles,pins,fabricmarker,seamripper)

• ½yd.ofmediumtoheavyweightfabricformainfabric(canvasordenimwouldbeperfect–Iusedplaidtwill)

• ¼yd.ofmediumtoheavyweightfabricforcontraststrap(canvasordenimwouldbeperfect–Itwill)

• ½yd.oflightweightfabricforlining(Iusedquiltingcotton)

• Two1”hookrings• Two½”grommets• 10”zipper(atleast)forpocket• 12”zipper(atleast)fortopofpurse

onepursethatis10”wideand8”tall

Thefrontzipperpocketusesabitofanintermediatezipper-installingtechnique,butpastthattherestofthebagisprettystraightforward.

Thispurseisafoldoverstyle,wherethetopflapalsomakesthetopedgeofthepurse.There’sanadditionalfrontpocketforextrastorageandthestrapisattachedviagrommetsandswivelhooks.

4. Markthefabricpieceswiththeguide-linesfromthepattern

1. Printouttheprojectpattern,pages11-16

2. Assembletheprintedpatternpieces3. Layoutthepatternpiecesonyour

fabricandcutthemout

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zip top pursesewing tutorial

Thisisacompletelyoptionalstep,butifyouwanttousetheskull

design,here’swhereyou’llneedtoputitin:DYoucould

followmy*fabricpaintstencil*tutorialandpainttheimageon,butIwentwithappliquéinsteadandseweditonwithazigzagstitch.Eitherwayyou’llwanttoapplythefabricorpaintfollowingthepatternguidelines.

Nextwe’reapplyingthezipper,whichisdonewithatechniquethat

makessomethinglikefabricwindow.Beginbytakingone

ofyourmainpursepieces,specif-icallytheoneyouwantfortheinnersideofyourbag(theonewithouttheappliqué).Takeoneofyourpocketpiecesandfacethetwopiecestogetherwithrightsidesfacingbyliningupthezipperguidelineexactly.Thebottomofyourpocketshouldbegoingtowardsthebottomofyourpurse.Thepatternguide-linesshouldgiveyouanideaofthis.Whentheboxisperfectlylinedup,sewcompletelyaroundtheperimeterofthebox.

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1

4

zip top pursesewing tutorial

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Toopenupthewindowforyourzipper,you’llwanttoclipthefabricinsidethebox.Cutalongtheguide-linesindicatedbythepattern,cuttingasclosetoyourstitchinglineaspossiblewithoutacciden-tallycuttingyourthreads.

Nowyou’llneedtostartturningthepieces“rightsideout.”Itwillfeelodd,butifyoupushthepocketfabricthroughthewindowtotheothersideofthemainfabric,thentryyourbesttogetyourseamsflatagain,itshouldstarttolookrightandyou’llseewhatwe’regoingfor.Whenyougetitlookingniceandyourseamsareallstraightandflush,pressthewindowreallyfirmlysotheseamsaregoodandcrisp.

4

3

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zip top pursesewing tutorial

Nowwecanattachthezipperintothisopenwindow.Slidethezipper

sliderdownalittlebitandplacethezipperinthewindow,

underneathyourtwolayersoffabric.HolditinplacewithsomepinsortapeasI’vedone,thensewitinplacebyedgestitchingaroundthewindowthatyoujustcreated.Beverycarefulwhensewingoverthezipperteeth,you’llwanttogoslowlyorjustusetheflywheel.Eitherway,you’redonewhenyou’vesewnallthewayaroundthewindowandthezipperisfirmlyinplace.Trimtheexcesszippertapewhenyoufinish.

You’vejustcreatedonesideofyourpocket,andattachingtheotherside

iseveneasier.Simplytakeyourremainingpocketpiece

andlineitupwiththepocketfabricthat’salreadysewntothepurse.Sewallthewayaroundtheperimeter,andyou’redone!There’snoneedtoironorfinishtheseams.

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5

6

zip top pursesewing tutorial

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Incasethepreviouspicturewasconfusing,thisiswhatyourfinishedpocketshouldlooklikeaftersewing.You’llnoticethatyourzipperisnowcompletelyencasedwithinthepocketandyoucanonlyaccessitfromthefrontofyourpurse!

Nextupisthetopzipperforthepurse.Beginbytakingoneofyourmainpursepieces(backorfrontisfine)andoneofthecorre-spondingliningpieces.Layeryourzipperbetweenthepiecesalongthetopshortedges,liningupthezippertape.Thensewallthreelayerstogether.Whenyoufinish,pressthefabricawayfromthezipper.

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7

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zip top pursesewing tutorial

Nowwe’llwanttogoandrepeatthiswiththeothersideofthezipperandyour

remainingmainpurseandliningpieces.You’llseethatthe

appliquéshouldbetowardsthetopendsoitshowsupperfectlyontheflapwhenwefinish.Onceagainyou’llwanttopressthefabricawayfromthezipper.

Tofinishuptherestofthesidesofthepurse,beginbyunfoldingthefabricfrom

thezipperandmatchingupyourmainfabrictomainfabric

andliningfabrictoliningwithrightsidestogether.Youshouldhaveonelongrectanglewiththezipperinthemiddle.Whenyouhavethatallsetup,youcansewallthewayaroundtheperimeterofthepurse,beingsuretoleaveanopeningintheliningsoyoucanturnthepurserightsideoutinabit.You’llneedtosewoveryourzipperinthemiddleoftheseam,sobesureyousewslowlyoverthispartandusejusttheflywheelifnecessary.

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9

8

zip top pursesewing tutorial

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Thisiswhatyourpurseshouldlooklikesofarwhenstep10iscomplete.Whenyoufinishhere,clipthecornersofyourseamallowancesandturnthewholepurserightsideout.Tucktheliningbackintothepursethengiveitagoodpressinprepara-tionforthenextstep.

Nextwecanapplythegrommetsforattachingyourstrap.Usingthepatternguidelines,installyourgrommetsalongthemiddlesides.

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11

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zip top pursesewing tutorial

Allthat’sleftisthestrap!Tobeginthestrap,startbyattachingthetwostrap

piecesonthebiasbyliningthemupata90˚angleas

youseehere.Thensewalongthestitchingline.Trimtheseamallowancetoabout3/8”andpresstheseamopen.

Toformthestrap,you’llwanttotakeyourlongrectangleandfoldunder

eachedgeby5/8”(alllongandshortedges).Thenfoldthe

entirestrapinhalflengthwise.Edgestitchalongthefoldededgessoyouendupwithastrapthat’scompletelyfinishedonallsides.

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13

10

zip top pursesewing tutorial

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Toattachyourstraptoyourhookrings,takeoneendofthestrapandloopitthroughoneofthehookrings.Overlapthefabricbyabout1”orso,thensewaboxstitchtosecurethestrapinplace.Repeatthiswiththeotherendofyourstrapandtheotherhookring.ThenusethehookstosnapthroughyourgrommetsandYOU’REDONE!

15

A1 A2

A3 A4

C1 C2

C3 C4

B1B2

B3B4

B5B6

Pg. 1/6 Pg. 2/6 Pg. 3/6

Pg. 4/6 Pg. 5/6 Pg. 6/6

grommetplacement

zipper placement

A1 A2

A3 A4

C1 C2

C3 C4

B1B2

B3B4

B5B6

Pg. 1/6 Pg. 2/6 Pg. 3/6

Pg. 4/6 Pg. 5/6 Pg. 6/6

applique placement

grommetplacement

A1 A2

A3 A4

C1 C2

C3 C4

B1B2

B3B4

B5B6

Pg. 1/6 Pg. 2/6 Pg. 3/6

Pg. 4/6 Pg. 5/6 Pg. 6/6

Zip Top PurseP

AT

TE

RN

www.cho

lyknight.com

FRO

NT P

OCKET

Cut 2 from

linin

g fabric

5/8” seam allow

ance

zipper p

lacement

A1 A2

A3 A4

C1 C2

C3 C4

B1B2

B3B4

B5B6

Pg. 1/6 Pg. 2/6 Pg. 3/6

Pg. 4/6 Pg. 5/6 Pg. 6/6

Zip Top PurseP A T T E R N

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PURSE FRONT & BACKCut 2 from main fabricCut 2 from lining fabric5/8” seam allowance

opening for turning (lining only)

pocket guideline

A1 A2

A3 A4

C1 C2

C3 C4

B1B2

B3B4

B5B6

Pg. 1/6 Pg. 2/6 Pg. 3/6

Pg. 4/6 Pg. 5/6 Pg. 6/6

Zip Top PurseP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

STRAPCut 2 from contrast fabric

5/8” seam allowance

A1 A2

A3 A4

C1 C2

C3 C4

B1B2

B3B4

B5B6

Pg. 1/6 Pg. 2/6 Pg. 3/6

Pg. 4/6 Pg. 5/6 Pg. 6/6

Zip Top PurseP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

SKULL APPLIQUECut 1

stitching line