Plus

www.ILAustralia.com

P. 20

P. 14

P. 16

P. 19

P. 29

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

Plus

LivingLivingi n t e r n a t i o n a Li n t e r n a t i o n a L

Phuket, Thailand From $3,000 a Month

Legendary Waves on Panama’s Pacific Coast

Affordable Old-World Living in Easy-Going Porto

How to Make An Idyllic Tropical Island Your Office

Writing Funds Five-star Travel From Cambodia

September 2016 vol.3 no.7

AuStrAliAn Edition

Globetrotter

travel

expat stories

upcominG events

investment

classifieds

RESHAPE YOUR PORTFOLIO

WITH A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVEEvery day, more people are looking to the global marketplace for diversification alternatives and potential returns, and for many years finding exposure to international markets was a difficult task. That’s why EverBank offers a better solution. Our WorldCurrency® accounts provide simple, straightforward access to a selection of the world’s currencies from major and emerging markets.

WorldCurrency® CDs

3 to 12 month terms

Open most accounts for $10,0001

Fixed interest rates available2

FDIC-insured against bank insolvency3

$2,500 to open

Some accounts bear interest with min. balance2

Works like a money market account4

FDIC-insured against bank insolvency3

WorldCurrency Access® Deposit Accounts

© 2015 EverBank. All rights reserved. 15AGM0021.02

1. For CDs denominated in Indian rupee, the minimum opening deposit is $20,000 USD.2. Not all WorldCurrency® accounts pay interest. Single currency CDs and multi-currency CD Baskets generally offer a fixed interest rate.

Certain WorldCurrency Access® accounts earn interest. Interest earned will be calculated and credited in the account’s denominated currency. Please visit our website for current rates and minimum balances to earn interest.

3. EverBank is an FDIC insured federal savings bank. The standard FDIC insurance limit of $250,000 applies per depositor, per insured depository institution for each account ownership category. FDIC insurance covers against loss due to the failure of the institution, but not due to fluctuations in currency values. Due to the nature and volatility of the foreign exchange market, the values of currencies are subject to wide fluctuations against the U.S. dollar. Foreign currency denominated instruments will entail significant risk exposure to adverse movements of the foreign currency relative to the U.S. dollar. The amount of deposit insurance available for products denominated in foreign currency will be determined and paid in the United States dollar equivalent of the foreign currency, as the value of such currency is determined by the FDIC under its regulations, on the institution’s date of default. You can lose money, including principal, due to currency fluctuations. Please only deposit money that you can afford to risk, and as part of a broadly diversified strategy.

4. Federal regulation generally limits this account to six transfers or withdrawals per month. See Terms, Disclosures and Agreements Booklet for details. If you exceed these restrictions, you may incur service charges, and we may close or convert your account to a non-interest bearing transaction account.

Diversify globally today everbank.com/iliving Questions? Call 1.866.343.0558

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 1

ContentssEpTEmbER 2016

InternatIonal lIvIng®

International Living (IssN 0277-2442), © Copyright 2016 by International Living publishing Ltd. All Rights Reserved. protected by copyright laws of the United states and international treaties. This magazine may only be used pursuant to the subscription agreement and any reproduction, copying or redistribution (electronic or otherwise, including on the world wide web), in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of International Living publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Waterford, Ireland. International Living Australia is published monthly. subscriptions: In Australia AUs$49 for one year, in New Zealand NZ$49 for one year. How to contact us: Customer service: To place a subscription order, renew a subscription, pay a maintenance fee, change an address, follow up on the status of an order, or enquire about a missed issue, etc, email cs@ilaustralia.com or call 1300 559 359 from within Australia or 0061 3 9037 8333 from overseas.Editorial Office: Editors, International Living Australia, International Living publishing Ltd, fax (03) 9558 2219. For our writers’ guidelines, see http://ilaustralia.com/international-living-australia-is-looking-for-writers. International Living is happy to receive manuscripts on speculation, but the publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited manuscripts received for review. All editorial requests will be reviewed and considered when we plan our issues. Not all requests, however, can be answered personally due to the volume of inquiries we receive. To submit an idea or article contact managing Editor, barbara Ross, email: editorau@internationalliving.com.Media enquiries: For all press and media enquiries and to discuss syndication, contact Associate Editor, Carol barron, email: Cbarron@internationalLiving.com

From the Editor 2 Put away your fears in these Southeast Asian destinations

International Dates 3 Gondolas and a sugarcane queen

Savvy Traveller 5 The hidden waterfalls, grottoes and Roman temples of Paris

Lifestyle 6 Music, history and new friends in Ireland’s Burren

Renting 8 Find your perfect beach town rental in Ao Nang, Thailand

Living the Dream 10 Make money while exploring Cambodia

Healthcare 12 Low cost, great service: Healthcare in Southeast Asia

Exploration 14 Santa Catalina: Legendary waves on Panama’s Pacific coast

Exploration 16 Affordable Old-World living in easy-going Porto

Fund Your Life 18 Running a beach bar in paradise

Fund Your Life 19 How to make an idyllic tropical island your office

Cover Story 20 Home comforts on a tropical Thai island—Phuket from $3,000 a month

Market Watch 24 Find a cottage in romantic Ireland that could make you $190,000 or more

Investment 26 Get in now on the growing wind power revolution

Income Overseas 28 A low-stress life with a winery in the hills of Italy

Income Overseas 29 Writing funds five-star travel from Cambodia

Travel 30 Three must-visit surfing beaches in Costa Rica

Travel 31 Discover exotic souks in Morocco’s “Red Rose City”

Classifieds 32 Opportunities from around the world

Calendar of Events 33 Experts plan your overseas retirement

Global Property Notes 34 Sacred places turned into romantic homes

The Last Word 36 Follow your passion and plunge into life overseas

2 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

SEPTEMBER 2016, Volume 3, Number 7 ILAustralia.com

Founding Publisher William BonnerPublisher Jackie Flynn Editorial Director Eoin Bassett Managing Editor Barbara Ross Copy Editor Janet NistedPhoto Editor Hugo GhiaraAdvertising Helen Daly email: advertising@internationalliving.com

Contributing Editors Linda Card, Wendy DeChambeau, Barbara Diggs, Victoria Harmer, Suzan Haskins, Bonnie Hayman, Keith Hockton, Jason Holland, Wendy Justice, Steven King, Ann Kuffner, Steve LePoidevin, Ronan McMahon, Jackie Minchillo, Don Murray, Conor William O’Brien, Glynna Prentice, Dan Prescher, Kirsten Raccuia, Jessica Ramesch, Jim Santos, Edd Staton, Greg Seymour

Put Away Your Fears IN THESE SOUTHEAST ASIAN DESTINATIONS

little fear is understandable when it comes to the unknown. whittling down a shortlist of overseas locations is exciting, sure, but as anyone who’s gone before you will say, it’s normal to feel a few concerns.

You will find however, that those fears are largely unfounded and that you’ll reap great rewards when you overcome them.

take expat rob schneider, who, in 2007 moved to a beach town in Cambodia. On page 36 rob explains how he was a little sceptical when he was told that he could follow his dreams overseas. but by moving to Cambodia he was able to do just that and fulfil his desire to become a writer. now each day his toughest decision is picking which beach to work from and he couldn’t be more content…or less fearful.

You may be afraid that you can’t afford to follow your passions or worried about giving up your income back home. but southeast asia is full of opportunity so you have nothing to fear. Cambodia truly stands out when it comes to opportunity. bill Parker (see page 10) moved to the “temple town” of siem reap and says, “i had visited already and knew this was a place where i could make a new journey for myself and enjoy a better life.” he started his own guesthouse and the income now covers his living costs. “i spend less than $1,500 in an average month on everything from food to medical care.”

and alongside bill’s story you’ll find Peter Jamieson’s (see page 11). Peter discovered his “success was not just a one off but is actually part of a wave of younger expats who are moving to Cambodia to work in many industries that are crying out for westerners with skills and experience.”

if healthcare is one of your concerns, Cambodia’s healthcare is developing at breakneck speed. in fact, across some of the best retirement havens in southeast asia you’ll find quality healthcare if you know where to look—another reason to put away those concerns. On page 12 our correspondents take you through your options in Malaysia, thailand and Cambodia.

2

2

Managing Editor, Barbara Ross

A

FROM THE EDITOR

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 3

INTERNATIONAL DATES

Gondolas and a Sugarcane Queen

Lying on Ireland’s wild Atlantic coast, the city of Galway is renowned as the nation’s seafood capital. And the last week of September is

the best time of year to experience the finest fare Galwegian waters have to offer. This is when the Galway Oyster Festival returns to town. Embark on a trip along the city’s oyster trail, trying the delectable mollusc at each stop along the way (if you can stomach it). Be sure to wash it down with generous pints of Guinness, the perfect tonic to this salty seafood snack. You can also learn how oysters have been prepared in this region for centuries. If you’re handy with a knife, you can even take part in the oyster-opening competition. Here people race to shuck as many oysters as possible. Just watch your fingers with the sharp blade.

You might think a vegetarian festival would be less messy than shucking oysters. But you’d be wrong. At the Vegetarian Festival in Phuket, Thailand, it’s not shellfish that are pierced by sharp blades, but people. In a bid to show their devotion to local deities, festival participants (known as mah song) pierce their bodies with knives, swords and pretty much anything else that can break human skin. Don’t be too shocked to see someone poking a pistol through a hole in his cheek. The festival has its origins in the 19th century, when a touring opera troupe, realising they had offended the gods by eating meat at the wrong time of year, swore off it in a bid to improve their health. Not for the faint of heart, but it’s a fascinating insight into local customs and beliefs.

Fortunately, Venetians know how to celebrate in September with a little less blood. The Italian city is famous for its canals patrolled by gondolas. And on September 4, these serene urban waterways play host to the Regata Storica, a Venetian tradition that dates back to the 1200s. Gondolas in a rich variety of greens, yellows, reds and blues are manned by rowers dressed in the colour of their watercraft. Don’t miss the opening spectacle, when the doge (that is, the magistrate) of Venice, his wife and other high-ranking officials, aboard 16th-century-style gondolas, are unveiled to thronging spectators.

The popular expat hub of San Miguel

de Allende, Mexico, is the place to be on September 26, as the Fiesta de San Miguel brings the month to a close. The festival celebrates the town’s patron saint, San Miguel (Saint Michael), whose feast falls on September 29. Expect dancing, parades and fireworks to round off proceedings. Dance troupes re-enact a battle in 1531, when Christianised indigenous forces, allies of the Spanish, defeated their non-Christian compatriots and converted the region to Christianity. Religious leaders are on hand to offer forgiveness to all attendees, in the interests of reconciliation. Offerings of food—bananas, bread and more—are made to the statues and images of Saint Michael before these

By Conor William O’Brien

Notes from an Offbeat World…

Natto sushi looks delicious but the smell is overpowering.

wonders and rich history of this unique food.

Now it’s my turn to take a bite. It’s just a small bit, wrapped in seaweed and rice. I’ve watched children dig into cups of natto plain or with a little soy sauce and mustard. The long sticky strands, like fat spider webs, dangle from their chopsticks and are licked off in delight. I know it’s healthy, packed full of probiotics and reputed to have many benefits to health and longevity.

I know it’s an acquired taste. But I also know the looks of pleasure, the clapping of hands and exclamations of “Sugoi!” (cool or amazing, in Japanese) I would receive from Japanese co-workers and friends if I actually enjoyed the taste. It’s funny how much food can mean to a culture.

I place the natto sushi next to my lips, imagining I am taking a strange form of Japanese communion. I take the bite, and force back the urge to vomit. It tastes worse than it smells. n

I am told not to smell it before I eat it, but that’s just not possible. Even in a sushi restaurant it is by far the most pungent

scent. The sickly sweet smell of mouldy cheese and feet kept passing me by.

That could just be my nose though, because in Japan natto is a delicacy. I know it’s just fermented soybeans. In Ibaraki Prefecture, it is famous and beloved by locals. There is even a natto museum commemorating the

Natto: It Tastes Worse Than it SmellsBy Levi Andrew Noe

© y

um

EhA

NA

/iST

OC

k

are paraded through the town.September is also an important month

in Peru, as it marks the return of spring and the natural bounty that comes with it. This is especially true in the Sacred Valley,

home to the iconic ruins of Machu Picchu. The Sacred Valley has been an agricultural hub since Incan times: The Inca cut terraces into the Andean slopes that are still in use today. And in September, locals and tourists alike descend upon this region for the Festival Reyna del Cañaveral,

the Festival of the Sugarcane Queen. The Queen is crowned each year on the banks of the Río Pampas river, while swimming races, rafting and a selection of local fare for sale keeps visitors pleased. n

“If you’re handy with a knife,

take part in an oyster-opening competition.”

4 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

GLOBETROTTERNews & Notes from Around the World

On the Cover This Month…

P huket…less than 50 kilometres off the south coast of Thailand in the Andaman Sea, Thailand’s biggest island is famed for its 25 beaches, ranging from long stretches of white sand to secret coves, amazing

diving and fantastic fishing, and a sometimes raucous nightlife. But there’s another side to the this island.

In this month’s cover story, we introduce you to the best places to live on Phuket no matter whether you want to chill on the beach or party with the tourists. The island boasts five hospitals and an international airport with flights to just about anywhere in the world—including four direct flights to Sydney and three to Melbourne. And the kicker is, a couple can live well here for just $3,000 a month.

Turn to page 20 for more. nThe beach area of Patong has the best amenities on the island and rents here start from just $1,000 a month.

© JA

b265

407/

DRE

Am

sTIm

E.c

Om

Hong Kong may seem like a metropolis of modern skyscrapers stretching to the heavens. But why not take a short trip on the ultra-efficient MTR subway to the Diamond Hill station and visit the Nan Lian Garden? This 8.6-acre park offers a welcome breath of peace and tranquillity at the heart of the city.

IL’s Vietnam Correspondent Wendy Justice paid a visit to this spot on a recent trip to Hong Kong. “The classical Tang Dynasty style Chinese garden, built by the acolytes of the nearby Chi Lin Nunnery, features meandering footpaths, which pass by a beautiful, golden-hued octagonal pagoda and the graceful arches of two red wooden bridges. Pathways also lead to quiet ponds, soothing waterfalls and meticulously arranged rare and colourful rocks.”

The nunnery’s sprawling Buddhist temple complex features the world’s largest hand-made wooden building.

China’s Secret GardenColombia’s Safari Park

Colombia has come a long way from its violent past. (And it could soon go even further, with the conclusion of a recent ceasefire between the government and FARC guerrillas.)

Nowhere is this better demonstrated than at Hacienda Nápoles. Formerly the home of infamous drug baron Pablo Escobar, the Hacienda has since been turned into a safari-style theme park for all to enjoy.

In life, Escobar was a renowned animal lover who kept a menagerie of exotic creatures on his estate. Most famous among these were the hippos, and around 40 of them can still be found roaming the Hacienda today. It’s the largest hippo herd to be found outside Africa. And though adult hippos can be dangerous, juveniles are more placid. At Hacienda Nápoles, you can even feed them if you like.

You can also enjoy a tour of the Hacienda itself to see Pablo’s possessions, including the airplane used to carry his first cocaine haul into the States.

You can reach the Hacienda by following route 60 for about 160 kilometres east of Medellín.

It’s always nice to fit in an unforgettable dining experience when travelling abroad. If you’re heading to Rome this month, be sure to enjoy some of the finest cuisine in the Eternal City—and enjoy truly panoramic views of the Italian capital as you do it.

Dinner in the Sky is a concept developed by Belgian entrepreneur David Ghysles. Basically, a makeshift restaurant large enough to accommodate 22 patrons and a chef is hoisted into the air using a crane. The concept has been a hit in cities right across Europe. And from September 15 to September 30, it’s Rome’s turn.

Granted, the experience doesn’t come cheap. Figure on paying €318 (about $469) for a dinner for two. But what a way to cap off your visit to Italy…and enjoy the historic cityscape in a way that few other people will. Bear in mind though, that you’re suspended 50 metres up, so if you’re afraid of heights, give this a miss.

© L

uc

IAN

O m

ORT

uLA

/isT

Oc

k

Dine in the Sky

The interior of a volcanic crater may not be where most of us would decide to live. But that’s exactly what a small community of farmers has chosen to do inside Ecuador’s Pululahua volcano.

The village of San Isidro encompasses nearly 202 hectares within the crater and most of the 60 residents there lead a simple life of farming and craft-making.

Pululahua is around 17 kilometres outside the capital, Quito. You can easily drive to a mirador (lookout) on top of the volcano’s rim, which offers up dramatic views of the farm-chequered crater below.

There is also a trail which leads down the slopes and into the village where you can explore on your own. Or you can opt to stay at the Pululahua Hostal ($53 a night for a standard room for two people) and take a guided tour to learn more about the history and culture of the area, as well as the rich endemic wildlife.

© W

END

y D

Ech

mbE

Au

Ecuador’s Volcanic Village

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 5

C ornwall, on England’s southwest coast, is a land where legend and history blur together. It’s a region renowned for its beauty, with many medieval castles dotting the landscape.

But one place here really stands out for its myth and majesty: Tintagel, said to be the birthplace of the legendary King Arthur.

A headland looking out into the Atlantic, Tintagel was once a base of power in the region. The 13th-century castle on the island was built by Richard, Earl of Cornwall and brother of King Henry

III, probably in mockery of the Cornish kings who once ruled from Tintagel. In this castle (now a ruin), Arthur is said to have been born. A tunnel beneath the castle is even known as Merlin’s Cave, after the wizard that played a key role in his adventures. Legend has it that the wizard

himself still walks this passageway to this day. Some people claim that you can still hear his voice haunting the tunnel—or it could be just a gust of wind passing through.

Arthur isn’t the only legendary figure with a connection to Tintagel. Tristan and Isolde, a Cornish knight and Irish princess of legend, were said to have eloped here. It’s one of the most famous romantic fables of the Middle Ages.

The castle can be reached from Tintagel village—the half-hour walk offers you wonderful views of the ocean. And recently, plans were announced to build a new footbridge that will make it easier for visitors to access the castle—and appreciate the site in all its splendour.

“A land where legend and history blur together.”

Explore the Birthplace of King Arthur

© T

ATyA

NA

_TO

msI

ckO

VA/is

TO

ck

Though a birthplace of myths and legends, there’s much more to see atthe historic ruins of Tintagel and along the stunning cornwall coast.

The Hidden Waterfalls, Grottoes and Roman Temples of Paris

The Savvy Traveller’s Corner

W hen seeking a calm green space in Paris, most tourists naturally gravitate toward the flawless beauty of the Jardin des Tuileries or Jardin du Luxembourg. But, as

lovely as these gardens are, the prevailing message is: “Look, don’t touch.” Even sitting on the grass is usually forbidden.

If you want to relax in a more natural setting, then act like the locals and head to the grassy slopes of the Parc des Buttes-chaumont, in Paris’s Belleville quarter. Here, amid the laughing children and hand-holding couples, you’ll find massive, slanting trees, the tips of their branches dipping into a small lake; leaf-shaded twisty paths; hidden grottoes; and even a waterfall or two.

This splendid park, Paris’s third-largest, was the brainchild of Baron Haussmann, the legendary 18th-century city administrator responsible for the elegant boulevards and buildings that Paris is famous for today. This hill was once so bereft of vegetation that the locals called it chauve (bald) mont (mountain), hence its name, chaumont.

Now far from its stark origins, the park is so richly dense with trees and shrubs that when you enter its gates, Paris’s big-city energy suddenly drops away. Were it not for the excellent, panoramic city views offered from the park’s highest peak, you could almost believe you had left Paris altogether.

While much of this park’s fun comes from blindly exploring its many twists, turns and whimsical features, there are certain highlights you won’t want to miss. Among these is the Temple of sybil, a neo-Greek-style replica of the famous Roman temple in Tivoli. set atop a small rocky island, the temple can be accessed by crossing a 63-metre metal suspension bridge that hangs almost 30 metres above an artificial lake.

As you wander, keep an eye out for the picturesque grottoes and waterfalls on the park’s south side, which were created from the old gypsum quarry. you may also stumble upon the abandoned 19th-century train tracks that run through the park, as well as cement rain shelters designed to look as if they were made from wooden logs.

Before visiting the park, don’t forget to pack a baguette, a hunk of cheese and maybe a bottle of wine. The park’s slanting hills are a wonderful place to picnic after your explorations.

Barbara Diggs

© R

AD

u V

uLT

uR/

DRE

Am

sTIm

E.c

Om

In Parc des Buttes-chaumont, you can leave urban Paris far behind.

6 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

granddaddy of all seisúns takes place each Thursday night during the summer. Corofin’s Teach Ceoil sessions have been showcasing Irish culture for over 40 years. Soon enough, good friends came along, as delighted to have me in their company as I am to have them in mine.

Green fields layered one after another and distant hills dressed in a smoky blue…almost every day, I discover a new road to go down or an interesting bit of history and folklore.

I am still discovering the magnificence of The Burren. It is a vast cracked pavement of glacial-era limestone, cliffs and caves. A living landscape where cows and feral goats graze on sweet grasses that grow among massive limestone pavements. At the Giant’s Playground, boulders pepper the landscape. Fossilised coral hint at a watery past. Starting in May, The Burren sports a riot of wildflowers, including 24 orchid species. My dog Coop and I walk the roads and trails of The Burren several times a week. I especially love finding Bee Orchids and Fly Orchids, two of the more

exotic-looking varieties. And, there’s the Wild Atlantic Way—a 2,500-kilometre route

that takes in the untamed western coastline of the country. It covers the counties of Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Clare, Galway, Mayo, Sligo and Donegal. Jagged cliffs, hidden beaches and some of the best

LIFESTYLE

© JA

cq

uEs

VA

N D

INT

EREN

/isT

Oc

k

The sound of fiddles, flutes and tin whistles fill the hall as people of all ages kick up their legs and dance the night away. One older gentleman begins a low melody of a song from long ago and soon the whole room falls silent in admiration. Talented young

people sing, play their instruments or both. Visitors are mesmerised as locals step dance, set-dance and sean-nós dance—an old Irish style—around the room.

You don’t have to be a huge fan of traditional Irish music to enjoy a good trad seisún, as it’s called here. They’re popular with visitors and locals alike, and are not to be missed. At a well-earned break in the festivities, tasty home-baked goodies and big kettles of tea are trotted out on long tables. During the second half, the audience is invited to sing, play, recite a poem or tell a story.

I knew not a soul when I moved, at the age of 61, to the small town of Corofin in north County Clare. But I was confident friends would come soon enough. I find people here as gregarious and friendly as their reputation suggests and I’m much like that myself.

Despite its size, Corofin is bustling with activity. I took myself to local music sessions, exhibits, dances and productions put on by the talented actors of the Corofin Dramatic Society. The

Music, History and New Friends in Ireland’s BurrenBy Janet Buell

“People here are as friendly as their reputation.”

The cliffs and caves of The Burren area in county clare are made for exploring.

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 7

surfing are on this coast, just waiting to be explored. Ireland has always held a certain seductive attraction; it just pulls at me.

Mostly, though, it was Ireland’s big skies that drew me in. The vast blue skies with whispers of white puffy clouds in County Clare to be exact. I chose the village of Corofin—population less than 1,000—because it looks great on a map. It’s central to everything and I wanted to live where I would have easy access to all of Ireland and to the rest of Europe. It’s 15 minutes to the motorway, 10 minutes to the lively town of Ennis; the coast is less than 30 minutes away. Shannon International Airport is a leisurely 25-minute drive. I’ve already launched trips from there to the Netherlands, France and Italy. And I’ve planned more to Scotland, Malta, more of Italy and to the U.S.

I’m a true Europhile, I moved to Ireland to have Europe on my doorstep. From Shannon Airport I can fly non-stop to 18 cities in seven European countries and it also services long-haul flights to 65 other cities worldwide. Making the easy trip by train, bus or car to Dublin or Cork airport opens up even more of the world to me.

What makes up a big part of the social fabric of Ireland is the pub. This may cement the stereotype of the Irish being big drinkers but I’ve rarely seen messy drunks here. Rather, I find pub culture civilised and fun. People gather in pubs after funerals and weddings and for birthday parties or an evening out. Here craic (pronounced crack)—a bucket term that covers fun of all sorts: banter, a laugh or two, dancing, music and stories—is a must.

Crowley’s is the oldest pub in County Clare, with lots of charm and a cosy feel. Its Friday night sessions feature some of the best musical talent around. Bofey Quinn’s, at the other end of the village, is a nice counterpoint. It’s a restaurant/pub, and a larger venue. Bofey’s offers up two music sessions a week, with

© u

pTh

EBA

NN

ER/D

REA

msT

ImE.

cO

m

equally talented musicians, on Wednesday and Saturday nights. I love hearing people from around the globe singing their country’s popular songs or the Irish songs they’ve learned. A pint of Guinness is generally €4 (about $6). I can walk in on a Friday night for a couple of “jars” and expect to find someone I can have a chat with.

I rent a comfortable, three-bedroom, 1970s bungalow in the countryside outside of the village. Cows graze in the field across the road. Each spring, foals test-drive their new legs in the field behind me. My rent is $760 per month. My electricity bill is about $700 a year. I have two open fires, they’re a delightful and cosy way to

conserve fuel. Ireland’s winters can be cold, rainy and grey but they’re relatively short and mild.

I dine out once or twice a week. I can get a meal at an inexpensive pub or restaurant for €12 ($17.50) or €25 ($36.60) at a more upscale eatery. A bottle of wine costs about €20 ($30) or higher in restaurants. Several restaurants offer three course early bird specials for €15 to €18 ($22 to $26).

I find food costs very manageable. I especially appreciate the wonderfully fresh and flavourful local options found at the farmers’ markets. There are many smallholdings in County Clare and I feel it’s important to support the farmers. It feels good to eat seasonally and locally.

I spend about €500 to €800 ($740 to $1,180) a month excluding rent. That covers my heating costs, electricity, internet, television and petrol.

Ireland requires non EU citizens to have private medical cover. I pay €100 ($146) per month for mine. I’m here on a Stamp 0 visa, which I must renew yearly. It requires you to have an income of €51,000 ($75,220) per year and enough to buy a home—although that amount is unspecified. After five years here, I’ll only have to reregister every five years. Check out page 12 of your August issue to find out all about Irish residence visas.

My life back home was great, but never this full of fun and entertainment. I’ve joined committees and clubs and I’ve learned to set dance. I’ve also learned the ukulele so I can play an instrument like almost every other person in Corofin. I sing with a local group on Monday nights. I continue to explore every nook and cranny of County Clare. A lot of my friends like to joke that I know more about this area than they do.

I’ve just started my fourth year here and life is simply wonderful. When people hear my story, they say I’m courageous. I hadn’t really considered that as I made my move. Perhaps it was rather brave. But, really, I couldn’t have done anything other than this and would have regretted it if I hadn’t. The fact that everything fell so happily into place just confirms that finally I have found my home. n

Editor’s Note: Though small, Ireland is diverse. You can hike the mountain trails in the morning and by afternoon be on the beach or in a city museum. You can drive the length of the county in six hours or so.

In your August issue, which you can access here, we reveal how you can live part-time in Ireland. Discover everything you need to know about the Emerald Isle including where you can rent a furnished apartment for just $530 a month.

And on page 24 of this issue you can learn how to find your own romantic Irish cottage that could make you $190,000 or more.

“I have easy access to the rest of Europe.”

8 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

The Krabi region of southern Thailand is famous for its natural beauty. White-sand beaches, crystal clear water, fascinating coral reefs, caves

and waterfalls draw visitors and expats alike here to enjoy an outdoor lifestyle.

The most popular beach resort and expat haven in the region is the coastal town of Ao Nang. The sandy beaches are picture perfect, there are no ugly apartment projects blocking your view, just small massage huts. The town’s boardwalk is decorated with a huge marlin sculpture and the jungle runs down to the beach.

It’s a small town but the perfect place to call home. Being in the town affords you quick access to every convenience including shops, restaurants and bars. And the good news is that you can find a comfortable rental here from just $560 a month.

One of the best ways to save a bundle is to come during the off-season. There will be a good selection of properties and it will be easier to secure a long-term lease. Nearly all the properties that are for rent here are furnished to some extent, with most of the furnishings being very modern and new.

My favourite find was a one-bedroom, one-bathroom, 40-square-metre apartment. It had views of the emerald greenish-blue ocean that was just a three-minute walk away. If you sign a year’s lease the monthly rent is just $560 and it is turn-key, meaning all you would have to do is unpack your suitcase and start a new chapter in your life.

It is in a gated community which gives you access to three swimming pools, a gym, restaurant, spa facilities, tourist information counter and even a convenience store. It’s also close to all the action that the town has to offer as well as the international

REnTing

Find Your Perfect Beach Town Rental in Ao Nang, Thailand

© B

OjA

NM

ujc

IN/is

TO

ck

supermarkets and the nightlife and restaurants.

The internet is a good place to start your search (one agent I talked to was Wayne Lucas and his website is Exotiq Property Krabi). But after living in Southeast Asia for nearly three years, I have learned that the best rental deals are discovered by hitting

the streets. Start in the areas that you think you want to live in and look for rental or sale signs. Time in the car exploring could result in considerable savings. If you see someone outside or near a property that is for rent, go ahead and talk to them. This is a great chance to learn about the area, and

even sometimes what the owner’s situation is, which could prove valuable in the negotiation process. If this is a neighbourhood where no one speaks English, you may want to enlist the help of a local.

The best way to find a place to live is to have local connections. It seems that everyone is a ‘property agent’ and can

show you properties or get you to someone who can. Rather than fight that fact, use it to your advantage. Whenever I come into contact with a hotel worker or stop to enjoy a cold drink, I talk and let people know my intention. This method has proven to be a surprisingly useful technique that has yielded great results in finding properties not available on the internet.

There are several expat groups on Facebook that have good postings and mention outings and meetings. One such group is Expats in Krabi, Thailand. Another helpful site is Internations. All of these sites are free and can make your life much easier by instantly having some people on the ground to help you in your research. They may even develop into long-term friends.

I used these sites to meet with a small group of expats at The Last Fisherman Restaurant. I chatted to them as we sat in the shade of the trees that line the rough tan sand along Ao Nang beach, enjoying a fresh, ice cold coconut water. We discussed everything from housing, maid costs, hardware stores and golf courses. Expats are a great resource for getting to

In the beach town of Ao Nang, you can rent just a three-minute walk from the ocean for only $560 a month.

“Local contacts yield great results not

found on the internet.”

By Mark Raccuia

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 9

know an area and what’s available.I checked out a villa in Ao Nang just a

few blocks off the main street. It is a two-bedroom, two-bathroom property with a modest kitchen. It comes partially furnished and includes air conditioning for $630 a month. The villa is 110 square metres and sits on a 250-square-metre plot with a small garden, terrace and a carport. On the main street you can find bars, restaurants and nightlife, but this location is peaceful.

After just a few hours of looking, I was able to find a bargain. It’s a two-bedroom, two-bathroom, 80-square-metre villa with a 250-square-metre yard. Papaya trees and pineapple plants grow in the yard—and it has a view of the jungle. The property comes fully furnished for $570 a month for a year-long lease. The villa is located at the end of a sleepy street, just two kilometres from Ao Nang beach and one kilometre to the grocery stores.

For those looking for a little more space, I heard of a brand new two-bedroom, two-bathroom villa just five minutes from the beach. It’s located in a quiet area of Ao Nang, which you will appreciate in the height of the tourist season. It comes fully furnished and includes a TV subscription and 12 MB internet access as part of the $850 per month rent.

For $1,500 a month you can get a three-bedroom, three-bathroom villa just three kilometres from the beach. This 200-square-metre property sits on a 400-metre lot. The kitchen is a good size with plenty of bench

© M

Ich

AEL

Lu

hRE

NBE

RG/is

TO

ck

With a massage costing just $11.50, enjoying the best Ao Nang has to offer won’t break the bank.

You Can Buy in Thailand if You Know How

M any expats prefer to rent in Thailand due to the great rental prices and the strict buying

restrictions, but if you do want to buy here’s what you need to know. Foreigners can own an apartment in a building that has a majority of Thai owners. Foreigners can’t own property fee simple (with the land). This means that they can buy the house and its contents but not the land it stands on. Expats can buy a 30-year land lease which is part of the sales price.

In theory, one renewal period of another 30 years is possible, but in practice, this renewal can be problematic. since the renewal can’t be registered upfront, the parties will have to wait for the

first 30-year lease to expire before they can register the second term.

Don’t get me wrong; people do this all the time without concern or issues but despite what an agent tells you, the second 30-year term may not be enforceable.

Despite concerns about buying a leasehold property, I have met many foreigners who bought terrific homes on leased properties in Thailand. They have all worked with a reputable solicitor who made sure that the land lease and personal property sale was legitimate and the title was clear.

In Thailand, it is advisable to perform your due diligence and inspections before signing anything, as once a contract is signed it needs to be accompanied by a non-refundable earnest

money deposit, which is normally 10%. The only way to get your money back is if the seller backs out or can’t fulfil their part of the contract for any reason. settlements are typically within 30 to 60 days after deposit and contract execution. Most foreigners use cash because financing for them is often difficult, if not impossible, to obtain.

On a purchase, the buyer can expect to pay legal fees that average about $1,200 to $2,000 for a moderately priced home and a transfer fee equal to 1.5% to 2% of the sales price. There are many variables such as price, property type, the complication of the deal structure, etc., that can affect the ultimate costs; your solicitor will detail them upfront.

space, it has air conditioning throughout and comes fully furnished. It also has a covered outdoor dining space and barbecue area so you can enjoy your evenings out of doors with friends.

If you have a larger budget and expect visitors, maybe a pool villa is more your style. There is a well-finished and outfitted three-bedroom, four-bathroom pool villa just two kilometres away from Ao Nang beach and just five minutes away from the two international grocery stores. This modern house with western kitchen is ideal for entertaining, and each bedroom has an ensuite bathroom. If leased for a year, the

rent would be $1,750 a month. Ao Nang is a haven for outdoor

activities. With temperatures near 30 C year-round, scuba diving, snorkelling, island hopping, rock climbing, white water rafting, mountain biking, bird watching and golfing are all popular.

After all that activity you may find yourself hungry. You can satisfy just about all your international food cravings along the beach front road. There is also a variety of live music to choose from; mellow acoustic guitar and violin groups to loud cover band bars replete with howling fans and raucous dancers. n

10 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

LIVING THE DREAM

much fun, which really had an impact on me. Sharing the joys of a country I love with another couple was totally mind-blowing.”

Now Bill remains as busy as he is happy because of his plans to open a new guesthouse later in the year.

“While I really liked my old place I have much bigger plans for my new guesthouse since I learnt so much from managing the business these past few years. I am much wiser now, but also much more ambitious, and I want to create a boutique experience for my guests that can cater to all their needs and make their trip to Angkor Wat the experience of a lifetime.”

When asked if it’s easy to make friends with other foreigners in Siem Reap, Bill says, “Absolutely, there is nothing better than enjoying a few sundowners with other expats in town after a busy few weeks during the tourist high season. We chug on a few drinks and watch the crimson sunsets that are uniquely beautiful in this part of Cambodia.

with Southeast Asia, which I have toured extensively during the past five years, and when I sensed the opportunity to move to Cambodia I just knew I had to do it.”

Kelly now works part-time teaching English at a university in Phnom Penh. She says, “I love sharing my knowledge and experience with a younger generation that are so eager to learn. It’s not about the money, although I have to admit that having a regular income is very helpful to supplement my pension.”

She was able to get her job based on her university education and her background in HR and administration. While she has no specific teaching credentials she secured a position after successfully conducting a test class with a room full of students. Her business or “ordinary” visa allows her to work in Cambodia and her employer obtains her work permit for her.

She says, “I didn’t come to live here because it was just like life in Australia. I wanted something more exciting, something better. Cycling down the road on my bicycle I feel the spirit of real freedom and happiness and it really seems that all my senses have come alive again now that I live in Phnom Penh.

“I keep myself fit from all the cycling I do but at the same time I have needed to visit the doctor a few times and my experiences have always been good. Of course, insurance is a must. You have to at least cover yourself for emergencies in case of the worst but for day-to-day medical expenses personally I cover these out of my own pocket because it is so affordable in Phnom Penh.

“A visit to an expat doctor costs me $45 and the prices at the pharmacies for imported top quality brand medications are outrageously low.”

Her basic monthly living costs are a fraction of what her expenses back in Australia were. Her one-bedroom rental apartment costs a mere $500 a month. After including costs for utilities, groceries and a decent social life with daily visits to restaurants for lunch and dinner she rarely spends more than $1,800 in a single month.

Aside from her love of cycling, Kelly has also immersed herself into the local meditation scene at the city’s temples. The best way to get involved is at Wat Lanka on the corner of Sihanouk Boulevard and Street 51 where twice a week free classes are open to Cambodians and foreigners alike.

“The classes are held at a beautiful

Make Money While Exploring Cambodia“I Saw a Gap in The Market Which I Was Able To Easily Fill” Name: Bill Parker Age: 62 From: Melbourne Earning With: Guesthouse in Siem Reap, Cambodia

“Deciding to move to Cambodia was one of the most natural decisions of my life. I had visited already and knew this was a place where I could make a new journey for myself and enjoy a better life,” says Melbourne native Bill Parker.

Bill fell in love with Cambodia on his very first visit. He had come to see Angkor Wat and Siem Reap. He says, “People call Siem Reap a city but really it is known by us local expats as ‘Temple Town’ because that is what it is. It’s a whole town that lives and breathes due to the proximity of the Angkor Wat Temple Complex. It draws in millions of tourists each and every year and is the biggest attraction in the country for both foreigners and Cambodians as it is so special.”

He started his own guesthouse with a small investment of around $20,000 when he first arrived in the country three years ago. He says, “I saw a gap in the market which I was able to easily fill. After cashing in some of my superannuation I wanted to find a way to keep myself active while generating some income on the side to tide me over and cover my monthly expenses.

“My guesthouse provides me with an income to cover my living costs. I spend less than $1,500 in an average month on everything from food to medical care. Essentially my guests are helping to pay for my accommodation and my meals as well as making me a few bucks, so my new life has been largely paid for by the business.

“I can say my best experience so far was when the first guests rolled up. They were an American couple who I helped by giving advice on visiting Angkor Wat, enjoying the best nearby restaurants and bars and going to the local markets. We stayed in touch and they sent me such a lovely message thanking me for my help and making their trip so

“I spend less than $1,500 in an

average month.”“Is this life for everyone? Probably not

for everybody, no, but most certainly for me and anybody with the desire to experience something new and more enlivening. This is about finding out who you really are, believing in yourself and your attitude to life and seeking out a piece of paradise wherever it may be for you.”—Steven King.

“All my Senses Have Come Alive Again” Name: Kelly Williams Age: 67 From: Sydney Earning With: Teaching English in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

“I have always been an adventurer and travelling has long been one of the things I like to do best,” says Sydney native Kelly Williams. “This led me to a love affair

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 11

temple hall which is covered in 20 or 30 cushions for people to meditate on. We just gather and sit in silence, concentrating on our breathing and clearing our minds. At first it took some getting used to but the more I practised, the more I received the benefits of meditation. These sessions are the highpoints of my week as it really supports my wellbeing and gets rid of all the stresses and tensions in my mind.”

She has been charmed by the Cambodian saying “Nyam Bai Hai?” or “Have you eaten [rice] yet?” Her Khmer colleagues constantly greet her with this at breakfast and lunch.

cleaning service and the gym.”“Everything costs so much less than

you could imagine for the capital city of a country. A meal at a top notch French or Italian restaurant like Topaz, the most established place in town, for myself and a date might set me back less than $50. And if I go out for a drink at a place like Score Sports Bar, Aussie XL or one of many other top places then I can get draught beer for less than $1 a glass.”

“I spend around $2,000 to $2,500 a month, which is more than some expats. I guess this is because I still live around a work culture where things like the newest smartphone and a nice range of suits are a requirement for me.”

Peter got a job at one of Cambodia’s international banks who were looking for a reliable expat candidate due to the extreme shortage of skilled professionals in the local employment market.

“My employment success was not just a one off but is actually part of a wave of younger expats who are moving to Cambodia to work in many industries that are crying out for Westerners with skills and experience from developed economies. There are job openings in every sector including automotive, finance, education, telecoms, mining, tourism—in some cases people with a specific skillset can market themselves into finding a decent position,” he says.

Cambodia has 28 public holidays, giving Peter plenty of time to enjoy luxury travel to popular tourism hotspots in Cambodia such as Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. You can stay at five-star hotels for as little as $100 a night when booked in advance.

“There are some pretty nice high-end hotels here but I really enjoy more of the boutique hotels which offer a plush but distinctive local vibe in places like Kep and Kampot. Personally I love anywhere close to nature that comes with a swimming pool like the Villa Vedici on the Kampot riverside where I can just kick back, relax and watch the world go by for less than $50 a night.

“Ultimately the reason why I emigrated from Australia to Cambodia was to live life at a higher standard than what was previously possible for me. Over here I get to enjoy a comfortable lifestyle without financially scrimping on everything. I could not have imagined a more perfect outcome at this point of my life and I have no regrets at all,” he says.—Steven King. n©

EO

IN B

Ass

ETT

The “Temple Town” of siem Reap is a popular tourist spot drawing millions of people each year.

I believe should apply to anybody looking for a better way of living because to be happy and enjoy each day is what I live for and so should everybody else.”—Steven King.

“Cambodia is crying out for skilled and experienced Westerners” Name: Peter Jamieson Age: 38 From: Sydney Earning With: Banking in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Sydney native Peter Jamieson wanted a better quality of life. He knew he couldn’t have it in Australia so decided to break the cycle of never having enough and move to Cambodia.

He had heard of new opportunities in Asia and says, “I realised that I could be better off financially by working in a country like Cambodia where the cost of living is dramatically lower than in Sydney.”

While the overall salaries are not as high as those found in Australia, they can reach as high as $10,000 per month and upwards for more senior positions. Combine that with the low taxation rates—under 20%—and low cost of living in Cambodia, and you can enjoy a much better lifestyle than you could in Australia.

Peter says, “I know Australians of every age who are working and living the dream in Cambodia, whether they are in their 20s or in their 50s. For folks like me it has opened up a new world of experiences and a complete lifestyle upgrade. Nowadays I live in a two-bedroom serviced apartment in the centre of the city close to a lot of nice restaurants and expat bars, where I spend my free time going out for dinner or watching international sports fixtures. My monthly rental sets me back $800 but is worth it for the amenities like the free

“Everything costs so much less than you

could imagine.”“Eating together is very important for

building friendships with Cambodians so I take every chance I get to eat rice with my co-workers who I look upon as my extended family now. They have introduced me to the best of local foods at places I would never have found by myself.

“I have learned to enjoy prahok, which is fermented fish paste used in many dishes, and I love the way the ginger is used as a vegetable. Fried pork and ginger with rice is great and there is even a variant of this dish that uses frogs legs that I tried once but frankly it tasted like chicken so I stick with the pork version.”

Kelly also has some words of advice to offer future expats looking for a new life experience overseas. “I always loved the quote by Audrey Hepburn that, ‘The most important thing is to enjoy your life—To be happy—it’s all that matters’. This is a message

12 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

HEalTHCaRE

You’ve heard about the stunning beaches of Thailand. You may even have tried the excellent street food of Penang,

Malaysia, or walked down the bustling streets of Bangkok teeming with culture. Southeast Asia is an explorer’s paradise and has a huge amount to offer. And as many have discovered, you can call this vibrant region home for $2,200 a month or less.

But what about the healthcare? You can find excellent quality healthcare in Southeast Asia at incredibly affordable prices. World-class hospitals are common and many are JCI-accredited (the gold standard for healthcare service providers around the world). Many of the doctors and dentists speak English and trained in top-notch Western hospitals. In fact, you can often see them without making an appointment. Expats report receiving equal (or better) care here than they ever did in Australia.

We asked our network of correspondents on the ground exactly what was on offer in four of Southeast Asia’s most popular countries. Here’s your guide to the quality healthcare you’ll find in Southeast Asia’s best retirement havens.

Malaysia: Excellent Surgery for a Steal By Keith Hockton

Two months ago, I tore the anterior cruciate ligament in my knee while playing tennis. It was a Tuesday evening. On Wednesday morning I went to my local Lam Wah Ee Hospital in Penang, where I was already registered, and saw an orthopaedic sports surgeon. He immediately ordered an MRI, and within an hour, after looking at the results, told me I needed surgery. He operated on me the following morning. I was home the morning after that.

The cost of the entire procedure, including the initial consultation, MRI, the operation, anaesthetist and a private room, was just $2,600. In Australia, if you go privately, the same would have cost $24,000 or more.

With such costs, it’s not hard to see why

there’s been a medical tourism boom here in Malaysia over the past decade. Medical tourists arriving in Malaysia have increased by 100% on average over the last five years.

When you compare prices between Australia and Malaysia it’s easy to see why people in need of surgery flock here. A hip replacement in Malaysia comes in at as little as $6,765—quite a lot less than the $31,000 you’d pay back home. For a heart bypass, $11,188 is a lot easier on your savings than the $51,000 you’d pay in Australia.

Malaysia has some of the best-trained doctors in Asia, the majority of them having learned their profession in the U.S. or the U.K. All of them speak English too, which is a huge plus.

The country has no less than eight JCI-accredited hospitals.

There is little to no waiting time when you arrive at a hospital here. It’s as simple as registering at the hospital of your choice and then waiting for that particular specialist to see you. You also don’t need to be referred to that specialist by a GP.

It’s not just the ease of having surgery that makes Malaysian healthcare attractive. Healthcare professionals here genuinely care about their patients, and that caring attitude is evident the moment you meet them. I’ve

tried a few of the hospitals over the seven years I’ve lived here. The friendly, helpful, smiling attitudes of Malaysian staff are consistent throughout.

Thailand: First-Class Care in the “Land of Smiles”By Keith Hockton and Steve LePoidevin

Expat Bryan Hennessy enjoys the warm climate of Chiang Mai. But his part-time home has more than great weather to offer. Last year, Bryan paid a visit to an ear, nose and throat (ENT) specialist. After walking into the hospital, it took him less than an hour to be seen. And it cost him less than $33, including prescriptions.

“This type of simple consultation would have been far more expensive back home,” he says. “And that would have been after going through the time and energy to book an appointment.”

Bryan’s experience is not unique.“A full consultation with a physician

and two prescribed medications ended up costing less than $13,” says expat Patrick Franklin, who also lives in Chiang Mai and was having an allergy problem. “It was very easy for me to walk in off the street and meet with a physician that day.”

Such is the nature of healthcare in

Low Cost, Great Service: Healthcare in Southeast Asia

The Siriraj Hospital is the oldest hospital in Thailand, and one of the country’s best teaching hospitals with over 250 medical students attending each year.

© P

AN

yA7/

iST

Oc

k

By the staff of International Living

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 13

Thailand, where even in private hospitals a visit to a specialist is rarely more than $19 to $26. With no less than 18 JCI accredited hospitals, and one six-star facility (the Bumrungrad International Hospital in Bangkok), healthcare here is now drawing medical tourists from all over the globe.

Dental care is excellent in Thailand. And when you consider that most of the prosthetics used around the world are actually made here, it’s no surprise that the standard of care is so high. Although you’ll find costs far below what you’d pay in Australia, it’s the service and standards that really stand out.

Take Don Hatfield. Don needed serious work, including implants, that would have cost upward of $6,500 each in Australia, versus $1,950 in Thailand. In fact, his Australian dentist recommended he have it done in Thailand.

Implants require you to go back four to six months after being measured to have them fitted. Don needed quite a few of them and it was still cheaper to fly in, have the work done, take a holiday and then fly in again six months later than have the process done in Australia.

Thailand really is the land of smiles, and its professionals, dentists and doctors, are committed to making every minute of your trip work for you. Case in point, Don’s flight was arriving at 8 p.m., which meant that he would be in his hotel by 10 p.m. at the earliest. His chosen dentist suggested that, in order to free him up so that he could enjoy his holiday, that he come to the surgery at 11 p.m. So that’s what he did.

Given that medical tourism is more established here, healthcare prices in Thailand are around 10% to 15% more expensive than in other Southeast Asian expat hubs like Malaysia. But it’s still excellent—and far cheaper than any you’ll find in the West.

Cambodia: Outstanding Low Cost Dental Work By Steven King

Healthcare in Cambodia has improved dramatically in the 10 years I’ve been here. We are now at a stage where not only do both the capital, Phnom Penh, and the northern town of Siem Reap have international hospitals, but medical tourism

has also begun to take off, particularly for dental.

The Royal Phnom Penh and Siem Reap’s Royal Angkor International hospitals are both managed by the regionally-renowned Bangkok Hospital Group from Thailand. These two hospitals are where expats in the country go whenever anything as serious as surgery is needed.

However, mid-sized clinics are available for day-to-day healthcare (including vaccinations) with the International SOS and Naga Clinic in Phnom Penh both being highly regarded by expats.

A visit to a general practitioner at the Naga Clinic costs just $45 with an expat doctor while a specialist consultation costs $65 in case you need treatment for ENT, diabetes, gynaecology or another area.

By far the best savings to be found in medical care are at the many pharmacies in Phnom Penh which carry large and varied stocks of brand-name medicines. If you bring a prescription from home, you can have it refilled for as little as 5% to 10% of the price in Australia, for both brand-name and generic medications.

Expat Roger Carter, 64, was on the lookout for an affordable location with great healthcare and plentiful fresh air to ease his work-related breathing difficulties. Cambodia fit the bill.

“I didn’t choose Cambodia—it chose me,” he says. “I researched some websites

and emailed a few different hospitals. The feedback I got was unreal. Not only were the meds I needed easily available, but the low cost of healthcare has literally saved my life.”

But it is dental tourism that is leading the

way in Cambodia. The country is home to internationally trained dentists who operate from upmarket but very competitively priced clinics and hospitals. There is an estimated 70% in the difference of cost for dental work done in Cambodia compared to Australia with root canal surgery costing as little as $260 per tooth and fillings from $35.

Roomchang Dental Hospital in Phnom Penh is my one-stop shop for dental care. I have had the affordable experience of having two painless crown procedures as well as regular cleanings and check-ups performed there over the years. During a recent visit I was charged just $22 for a full panoramic

X-ray and $35 for a comprehensive check-up, polish and cleaning which I can vouch for as being equal to (and in many cases, better than) the dental care I have received in Europe and North America.

Nearly every expat I know has a similar positive tale of the high-quality dental care they have received at extremely low prices.

Roy Edwards, 66, says, “I’ve had several root canals and crowns done in Cambodia at a fraction of the cost I would have been charged back home. The operations all went smoothly with an English speaking dentist and the facilities are the same as what I have encountered at home for a top-class clinic.”

Vietnam: Low-Cost Meds—No Prescription NeededBy Wendy Justice

Vietnam has two general hospitals—one in Ho Chi Minh City and one in Hanoi—that have attained international accreditation. Not only will you find international-standard care here, but their prices are very reasonable.

In 2015, Vinmec International Hospital in Hanoi became the first internationally accredited general hospital in Vietnam. A consultation with a specialist costs about $40, and other medical services are similarly inexpensive. The huge FV Hospital in Ho Chi Minh City received its accreditation in March 2016. A visit to a physician here costs about $28.

Medical care elsewhere in the country is improving rapidly. New Vinmec Corporation hospitals are now located on the island retreat of Phu Quoc and the popular beach towns of Nha Trang and Vung Tau. There are also rumours that Vinmec will be building a hospital in the popular beach retreat of Da Nang.

I learned first-hand about the quality of care at Vinmec after contracting a blood infection last year. My eight-day hospital stay included an emergency room visit, a private room, all laboratory and diagnostic tests including CAT scan and ultrasound, medications, daily physician visits, exemplary nursing care, three meals a day and the services of an interpreter when it was needed. This was followed by 18 days of IV infusions, including the IV pump, antibiotics, supplies, and even snacks. I was extremely satisfied with my care, which is saying a lot as I worked as a registered nurse for over 10 years.

The total cost came to about $5,200. The entire ordeal would have cost at least $10,122 in Australia. n

“Many of the doctors and dentists speak English.”

14 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

While sitting on a shaded terrace in Santa Catalina, you may hear a voice calling out over a loudspeaker. It’s a vendor selling fresh, organic

produce—watermelon, cantaloupe, pineapple, onions, tomatoes—from the back of his truck. Nearby, young surfers carry their boards to the beach for a day on the waves. Fibreglass boats bob in the water, waiting to carry passengers to the nearby islands to snorkel, scuba dive among colourful corals and exotic fish, whale-watch…or catch the marlin and tuna this region is famous for. This little beach town knows how to chill.

This informal scene, a throwback to a simpler time, is the norm in laidback Santa Catalina, on Panama’s Pacific coast. It’s a great spot for expats content with a quiet life, away from the hustle and bustle of big city living. Adventurous, outdoor types who love being on the water and who treasure the natural world thrive in this unspoiled setting.

One of them is expat Mario Morel, who is building a home with a stunning view out over the ocean. He was stationed in the Panama Canal Zone back in the 1980s and spent as much time as he could surfing the breaks in Santa Catalina with his buddies.

“Santa Catalina will always have a place in my heart,” he says. “The people are wonderful and the surfing is great. It’s a beautiful place, peaceful and relaxed. Now I’m building my home in Santa Catalina, I plan to spend a lot of time here.”

Mario started from scratch to build his dream home. “I had the opportunity to buy the land from a friend, and I jumped on it,” he says. “I had to connect to the power grid and water service, and added back-up systems. My three-storey house is about 111 square metres and the total cost will be about $284,350. One floor is a studio apartment that I’ll be able to rent out for some income. I’m eager to make my permanent move to my new home.”

Until recently, Santa Catalina was no more than a quiet fishing village. Located on the southern point of land just west of the Azuero Peninsula, its protected waters are rich in marine life. There are two beaches: Playa Santa Catalina at the end of the main road, and Playa Estero at the end of the other road that turns off to the left. All along Panama’s Pacific coast, the sand is a greyish-tan and a wide expanse of shoreline is exposed at low tide. Santa Catalina is no exception,

and in some places a water-worn, rocky ledge replaces the sand. Nearby islands host seabirds, turtles and iguanas, and the warm waters bring humpback whales during calving season (July through October). For generations, the residents of this remote town lived a simple life based on the sea and surrounding farmland.

Back in the 70s, young globetrotters searching for great waves found Santa Catalina and kept it to themselves. For years the town remained a closely guarded secret. But slowly the word got out. Fishing enthusiasts got wind of the abundant game fish in the waters of the many islands close to shore, and they started showing

up for offshore charters.What really put Santa Catalina on the map was

the largest of these islands, Isla de Coiba, about an hour’s boat ride southwest of town. From 1919 it was the site of a federal penitentiary—like a Panamanian Port Arthur. The island and the waters around it were off limits to all but the inmates and guards. As a result, both the rainforest on the island and the surrounding sea were left in untouched, pristine condition. The prison closed

in 2004, and the area was protected as a national park and later honoured as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It wasn’t long before scuba divers discovered Isla de Coiba and the spectacular array of colourful fish that awaited them there.

Today Santa Catalina is a prime destination for scuba divers and

Santa Catalina: Legendary Waves on Panama’s Pacific CoastBy Linda Card

If you’re after a quiet retreat where you can enjoy the ocean and immerse yourself in nature, Santa Catalina could be the perfect spot.

© L

INd

A C

ARd

EXPLORATION

“This region is famous

for its marlin and tuna.”

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 15

snorkellers from all over the world who come to visit Isla de Coiba. It’s considered one of the top 10 dive sites world-wide. Among the surfing community, Santa Catalina has become a favourite, too, thanks to its good breaks, inexpensive accommodation and year-round access. The big draw for anglers is the Hannibal Bank, a world-renowned fishing spot just west of Isla de Coiba, where marlin, sailfish, snapper and tuna can all be caught. These three groups of water-sports enthusiasts keep coming back for more. And this sleepy little town has grown with them.

Kenny Myers was one of the first expats who came to Santa Catalina with his surfboard, back in the 1970s. He’s been coming back ever since. Now, along with partner Jon Hanna, he owns the Hotel Santa Catalina.

Kenny invested in the town because he loves the natural setting, the beach and the surfing, and he wants to see it preserved for the future. “This is a very laidback place, secluded and ideal for surfers, divers and fishermen,” he says. “If you come here, bring an open mind and an open heart to appreciate the natural beauty of the environment and the warmth of the people.”

These days Santa Catalina has a permanent population of around 400, including a hardy expat group numbering around 50. The town includes two grocery stores, a PADI Dive Centre, a few surf shops and scuba pros that offer tours. There’s no bank or ATM, no petrol station, no medical facilities and very few amenities. Those who live in Santa Catalina count on making regular trips to Sona or to Santiago for shopping, healthcare, business, banking and entertainment. It’s about an hour to Sona, an agricultural town with grocery stores, pharmacies and petrol stations. Another hour gets you to Santiago, the capital of Veraguas Province. It’s a small city of about 46,000 and has all the stores and services you might need, including a new mall and medical centre. While you don’t need to own a vehicle, it definitely makes these trips easier. In town everything is within walking distance, and bicycles are popular.

You will find plenty of options for places to stay and eat, as the town has a surprising variety of accommodation and restaurants. A few surf camps and hostels offer the basic fare; nicer digs can be found at the B&Bs, while a couple of hotels are available if you want more comfort. Locally owned eateries offer simple fare, such as rice and beans with roasted chicken or whole-fried fish with plantains, for a few dollars. The touristy spots serve up pizza,

Getting to Santa Catalina from Panama City is easy, thanks to highway improvements completed in the last couple of years. There’s no commercial airport in Veraguas Province, so you’ll have to arrive by private or rental car or bus via the Pan-American Highway. Take the Pan-American Highway west from Panama City to Santiago, where you’ll turn left toward the city centre and the Catholic cathedral.

Take the road behind the cathedral

How to Get to Panama’s Surfer’s Getaway

burgers, sandwiches and some vegetarian meals for around $13. The hamburgers at Argentine-owned café Los Pibes are big enough for two to share, and the home-made cheesecake is divine. The newer, high-end restaurants present menus with seared tuna, lobster or beef fillet, with higher prices to match. But there’s a good variety of options.

Mike Shogren and Michelle Miller settled in Santa Catalina 10 years ago. Now they own and operate La Buena Vida, a B&B with a café and gift shop.

“We really like the natural surroundings here and the fact that it’s undeveloped,” says Michelle. “We prefer an unspoiled environment, close to the water. Plus, there’s a nice balance of international expats and local residents.”

When asked what type of expat moves to the area, Michelle says, “The adventurous type…someone who can adapt and go with the flow. We’re part of a small expat community here, and we all know each other and help each other out. But you also have to be a member of the local community, to work together and know what’s going on, so it helps a lot to learn Spanish.”

Even with regular trips to Santiago, the cost of living in Santa Catalina is attractively low. Rental apartments and homes are available from $450 to

$1,550 a month, depending on size and location. A two-bedroom, one-bathroom home within walking distance of the beach may rent for $650 a month, all up. Utilities are inexpensive, but you might want air conditioning, since it’s a coastal town. Daytime temperatures range from 23 C to 32 C, and the humidity can be high. At night it cools down to 18 C to 23 C. Internet is provided through mobile phone services, and new towers have improved reliability. Figuring in monthly rent of $650, a couple can live comfortably on around $1,900 a month.

Santa Catalina doesn’t have a real estate office, so the best way to find property listings is by asking around. Existing homes include a new two-bedroom, two-bathroom house for $283,000 and smaller, older homes for under $129,240 that would need renovating. Building lots are on offer starting at $50,000 and larger tracts outside town are available, including a 21-hectare parcel listed for $245,560. It’s a good idea to have your own well and storage tank to ensure your water supply and be prepared for occasional power outages. n

“One of the top 10 diving

sites in the world.”

From david in western Panama, you can bypass Santiago by taking a right turn off the Pan-American Highway at the immigration checkpoint before Guabala. This two-lane road winds through scenic countryside, overlooking the ocean, and up and down the hills to reach Sona. It’s a nice drive, but don’t be in a hurry. If you prefer not to drive, there is a regular, safe and inexpensive bus service from Santiago to Santa Catalina.

that heads to Sona and Santa Catalina. It’s a well-paved, two-lane road and after about an hour you’ll reach the outskirts of Sona. Turn left at the delta petrol station and you’re on the road to Santa Catalina. You’ll go through the town of Guarumal, where there’s a petrol station, and bear left at the two junctions along the route. A sign welcomes you to the town of Santa Catalina. The whole trip from Panama City is about a five-hour drive on good roads.

16 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

I t’s evening on the Cais da Ribeira, the waterfront quay. The lights from the many cafés cast a golden glow into the night. Lights gleam golden, too, across the broad expanse of the bridge spanning the Douro River, whose waters, black in the darkness, flow just past the Cais to the sea.

The spring evening is mild—perfect for strolling the scenic riverfront. A murmur of voices rolls out of the packed cafés, and laughing couples, chatting in half a dozen languages, throng the largely pedestrian street. Across the river, the many caves (wine cellars) that have made this city famous loom like ghosts in the dark.

This is Porto, Portugal’s second city. Long famed as the home of port, the fortified wine beloved by the British, Porto today is newly chic. Wine bars and trendy restaurants dot the city. Its urban beaches, on the nearby Atlantic, put sand and surf within easy reach. And its cosy, historic city centre, with its colourful tiled buildings and its parks and squares, invites you to explore.

Porto is one of Europe’s most popular “holiday break” destinations. Now it has begun to grab expats’ attention, too, thanks to its low costs; cool, mild climate (summer temperatures ranging from the high teens to the low 20s); seaside location; many English-speaking locals; and an ambience that is both friendly and sophisticated.

Porto “has everything we really like in a city,” says expat Barbara Wolfe, who lives here with her husband Bill.

Expat couple Tom and Laine Berning found that Porto meets all their criteria, too: “A place with good public transport, a lot of culture and you can get to that culture without driving. Walking neighbourhoods, places that are safe and places that have excellent-quality food,” says Laine.

So if you, too, seek a low-cost, easy-going European base for full- or part-time living, take a leaf from these expats’ book and check out Porto.

Small-Town Vibe, Big-City StylePorto seems expressly designed for those who like big-city style

in a small package. The greater Porto urban area has about 1.5 million inhabitants, an international airport, concert halls, sports centres, hospitals and other big-city amenities. But central Porto is

home to only about 250,000 people. This gives it a small-city feel, with friendly, personable locals, a very walkable city centre and residential neighbourhoods that are near and easy to reach.

I stayed in the area around Rua Miguel Bombarda, toward the outskirts of central Porto. It’s an artsy, slightly bohemian neighbourhood of galleries, family restaurants and shops featuring up-and-coming clothing designers. Yet I was only about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre’s popular

riverside area around Cais da Ribeira.Tourists tend to concentrate in Porto’s historic centre, and for

good reasons. Porto is one of Europe’s oldest cities, and its centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996. Beautiful churches and public buildings, leafy parks and boulevards, venerable cafés and restaurants and worn cobbled streets are everywhere, so there’s plenty to see and do.

But the centre can also be a great place to live, if you like city bustle. Stores sit cheek by jowl on narrow streets, and you’re never far from a sidewalk café for your morning coffee. Down side streets hide small, local restaurants where the lunch special, the prato do día, is a bargain and the wine is quaffable and cheap. Take the Taberna do Santo António, for instance, located in the maze of hilly streets behind the Centro Português de Fotografia. Its daily specials, typically Portuguese meat and fish dishes with rice or potatoes, cost €4.50 ($6.60). And wine—on tap—is just 80 céntimos ($1.17) a glass. It’s hard to work up a bill of more than €7 ($10) here…even if you’re thirsty.

Food shopping is easy in the centre as small supermarkets are

Affordable Old-World Living in Easy-Going PortoBy Glynna Prentice

Porto’s international airport lies about 11 kilometres from the city centre and is accessible by metro. It has international flights to destinations throughout Europe on many European carriers. The airport is also a hub for discount carriers EasyJet and Ryanair, as well as for TAP Portugal. There are no direct flights from Australia to Porto so you will have to layover in either Bangkok, Thailand or Istanbul, Turkey.

GETTinG To PoRTo

© R

usm

/isT

Oc

k

EXPLoRATion

“Big-city style in a small

convenient package.”

In Portugal’s second city, Porto, you can savour great wine, mild weather and classic European living for as little as $2,270 a month.

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 17

everywhere. Or, if you prefer, try the colourful and well-stocked Mercado do Bolhão, central Porto’s traditional market. Here you’ll find a wealth of greengrocers, butchers and fishmongers…even lunch stalls. The market’s casual wine bar is a great place for a shopping break and an aperitif; a glass of Portuguese white wine or slightly fizzy vinho verde costs just €1.50 ($2.20), and a heaping bowl of olives to accompany it is 50 céntimos (73 cents).

And it’s easy to avoid the centre’s tourists. They mob places like Café Majestic, where J.K. Rowling allegedly wrote parts of Harry Potter while working in Porto. But a 10-minute walk away, off swank Avenida dos Aliados, you can enjoy your coffee at half the price.

If you want to stay in this area, short-term rentals start from about $80 a night through services like Airbnb. Long-term rentals are scarce. You can buy small apartments in nearby (but less swank) Cedofeita starting from about $200,000.

Outside the CentrePorto sits on the Douro River estuary, right where it empties

into the Atlantic. The Douro separates Porto, on the river’s north bank, from Vila Nova de Gaia, on the south bank. Gaia is where the great port houses like Taylor’s, Cockburn’s and Graham’s have their offices and caves. (Take a tour while you’re here; tickets start at about €5 ($7.38) and usually include tastings of two or three ports.)

Though Gaia is technically a separate city, it’s generally treated as a Porto neighbourhood. Several magnificent bridges connect the two cities, most notably the Ponte de D. Luis I, which runs from Porto’s historic centre to the heart of Gaia’s caves zone.

You can walk across the bridge from Porto to Gaia admiring the views of the Douro and of the riverfront at your leisure. (The Douro runs through a gorge here, with steep cliffs on both sides.) Or jump on Porto’s efficient metro for the short ride. Stay on the metro another stop or two into Gaia, and you reach a broad boulevard of residential apartment buildings, shops and commercial centres, including a mammoth El Corte Inglés, the successful Spanish department-store chain. This area is peaceful, modern and prosperous…and you’re less than two kilometres from Gaia’s riverfront bustle.

Both sides of the Douro are lined with walking paths that continue for kilometres along the Atlantic coast. These paths are one of Porto’s most winning urban features. On sunny days, especially, you’ll find joggers, dog-walkers, tourists and even local shoppers and business people thronging these river walks.

Streets branch off from the walking paths to cosy, traditional restaurants with outdoor tables and to tranquil residential neighbourhoods. Several of Porto’s most popular, upscale neighbourhoods are near the Atlantic beaches. In addition to Gaia itself, these include Foz and Matosinhos.

Real Estate and Living are Low Cost

Tom and Laine Berning have chosen to rent in Matosinhos, which borders one of Porto’s largest beaches. They pay €800 ($1,176) a month to rent a three-bedroom, 125-square-metre apartment. “By Porto standards, it is quite expensive,” says Laine. “The average person here spends maybe €350 to €400 a month ($515 to

If you don’t speak Portuguese, don’t worry. many Portuguese, particularly the young—even in small towns—speak competent English.

If you decide to live in Portugal long-term, however, you’ll want to learn some Portuguese. One tip: Take classes with native Portuguese or with a program that offers a Portugal accent. Brazilian Portuguese sounds quite different…

Get by With English in Portugal

$588). But those aren’t really available right now.”The Wolfes also rent. They pay €900 ($1,324) a month for a

two-bedroom, two-bath, 110-square-metre apartment in central Boavista, another area popular with expats.

Porto’s long-term rental market has tightened in recent years, with lower-priced properties snapped up quickly. Both the Bernings and the Wolfes stayed in short-term rentals through Airbnb when they first arrived. With year-long leases under their belts, they now have time to find lower-priced rentals, if they choose.

However, “we plan to buy something in the next year,” says Tom. The couple is checking out property in Matosinhos, as well as in other attractive areas in town.

In upscale neighbourhoods like Foz, Boavista and Matosinhos, comfortable two-bedroom apartments for sale can cost €200,000 ($294,318) or more. Upscale city centre neighbourhoods like Aliados may cost somewhat higher per square metre.

But other living costs in Porto are agreeably low. “Food is about 65% less than what we paid in the States,” says Tom. “There were some things we expected to be about the same price, like electronics. That’s what we expected and that’s what we found. Clothing is about half the price.”

Bill and Barbara Wolfe lived for four years in Cuenca, Ecuador, before they decided to give Europe a try. Their rent in Porto is about twice what they paid in Cuenca—but their other costs aren’t.

“I would say the food cost here is on a par with Cuenca, and we love the variety…the food here is phenomenal,” says Bill. “The prices here are very on par with Cuenca. Overall, we anticipate that costs here will be about 15% more than Ecuador.”

One big cost advantage is healthcare. Though you must show evidence of private health and evacuation insurance to qualify for a residence visa, “Portugal has national healthcare and we can sign up for that. There is also private healthcare,” says Tom.

“It’s just amazing when you compare it to other industrialised nations. We brought some prescriptions with us and the one that was $400 in the U.S. was €3 here.”

Tom estimates that a couple could live extremely comfortably in Porto on €3,000 ($4,415) a month, including travelling regularly within Europe. But he knows couples who live here on “maybe €1,500 ($2,207) a month.”

“I know people who are on the minimum level of Age Pension and who live in this area,” says Laine. “And they’re doing just fine.” n

18 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

The advertisement was looking for an English-speaking couple who were interested in managing a bar in a small village in northern Borneo. All it took was for the couple to submit a CV and travel history through Facebook.

Andrew says, “We have travelled to many locations in Asia, some very remote, such as Bhutan and Laos, but never actually pulling the plug and gone on a long adventure.” So when they were given the opportunity to manage a rustic, open air beach bar they grabbed it

with both hands. Sharon, a specialist in adult acute psychiatry, and

Andrew, a sales manager, are embracing this new adventure. They are provided with a work vehicle and weekly compensation for food and necessities.

Andrew says, “The deal we made with the owner is to work for six months. Our room and board is included as well as travel abroad at the beginning and end of our stint. (The couple were offered

flights from Melbourne to La Playa and back again.) Some days we have many guests, others few, some days we have none at all, so we’re prepared for everything.

Sharon says, “We stayed the first three weeks in the adjacent traditional Rungus longhouse, which is a timber building consisting of many separate rooms for extended families sharing a common corridor and cooking facilities. During that time, we fixed up our place—a converted rice storage unit—with the help of locals. We’re so comfortable, every day is a pleasure. We have visitors every day, including our local neighbours, geckos, black squirrels that peek in through the vents and mosquitoes (so we added a net for our bed).”

Sharon cooks in an open kitchen, barbecued chicken satay skewers, fried spring rolls, grilled corn and other simple dishes. Andrew does the heavy lifting, the bar work, washing up and whatever else needs doing. The bar is usually open from noon until 8 p.m., later if guests linger.

Andrew also works as a volunteer coach for the local rugby side while Sharon works with local women who design and make richly beaded necklaces and wrist bands. The couple sell them in the bar, with all the proceeds going back to the local women.

“At first it was strange” says Sharon. “We were suddenly completely cut off from everything, often in a panic to get on the internet to keep connected. We would take advantage of trips to Kudat to check on life back home and make sure the kids were well, but now we’re used to it and check in at the most every few days or even once per week.”

Sharon sums it all up by saying “If things change and it doesn’t work out, we can always go back and will have lost nothing. But if we hadn’t have broken out of the shackles we would always wonder what we could have done.” n

Running a Beach Bar in Paradise

FUND YOUR LIFE

In northern Borneo, Sharon and Andrew McLean have found their perfect lost beach.

By Rick Ellis

© Ju

hku

/DRE

AM

STIM

E. c

OM

Drive down several twisting, winding roads and you will notice that you are edging closer to the beach. Some junctions have signposts, some don’t…it’s hit or miss. You arrive at a dead end with a white-sand beach in front of you that stretches for 15

kilometres. The only interruption to the pristine scene is a couple of rocky points jutting out to the sea and two rainbow-coloured umbrellas pitched in the sand. The turquoise water is clear and there is a stiff breeze in the air. It’s the perfect lost beach.

Near the umbrellas, a small bar is perched on a rustic driftwood terrace. Cushions are scattered around a tree trunk, there’s a cooler in the background and a radio plays laidback jazz music. Electricity comes from a generator stashed in the brush behind the bar. Water, ice and fresh food are brought in from Kudat, a city of 80,000 located about 25 kilometres from the Tip of Borneo. There is no internet or nearby phone.

This is simple life at its best. Melbourne natives Sharon and Andrew McLean manage La Playa (meaning The Beach in Spanish) beach bar, on the northern tip of Borneo. The couple are completely disconnected and cut off from the world but they are ready to enthusiastically welcome whoever stumbles across them. They know that the people who find them will be adventurous types with a story to tell.

Sharon and Andrew have their own story to tell. Andrew says, “We were so burnt out. We’ve spent our entire 26-year marriage working to succeed and provide for our four kids—two boys and two girls, now between 19 and 24. Finally, late last year a friend forwarded a Facebook job posting from the owner of La Playa and we thought, that’s it, time for a change.”

“We were burnt out…it was time for a change.”

1. Keep an eye on expat Facebook groups: There are many different expat groups on Facebook. Anywhere that has an expat community will have one. They are a great resource for talking to expats and to keep up-to-date on any opportunities for work exchange, housesitting or house exchange. Some popular ones in Asia are; Bali Expats, Expats in Vietnam and Expats-Malaysia.

2. Volunteering sites: Sites such as Workaway.info give you the opportunity to experience a new culture and often learn a new skill in exchange for food and accommodation.

3. WWOOFing: World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF). This organisation offers free food, accommodation and the opportunity to learn about organic lifestyles in return for hands on help.

Tips for finDing opporTuniTies overseas

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 19

© u

NIs

ELLE

R/is

TO

ck

With the low cost of living in Thailand, that income goes a long way. The rent for my 41-square-metre apartment is about $678 a month and includes air conditioning, hot water, a fridge, access to an infinity pool, a restaurant and a café, and high-speed fibre-optic internet (125Mbps download speed and 30Mbps upload speed!) With other expenses, including travel and entertainment, I can easily live on $2,750 a month. Probably a lot less if I tried.

Because of the huge growth in online businesses and bricks-and-mortar businesses with an online presence, the demand for skilled

freelance copywriters has never been greater. I found that it’s not a tough field to break into

either. In fact, you don’t need any special education or experience to get started. I have a bachelor’s degree in French (with minors in political science and communications). Copywriting was not even on my radar but I knew I wanted to live and work abroad. I just didn’t know how to make it happen.

Then in 2001, at age 30, I received an email from International Living that promoted a correspondence copywriting course from American Writers and Artists Inc. (AWAI). I bought it (even though I was broke at the time) and studied it diligently.

I spent four hours a day studying the material and working on becoming a copywriter. I was dedicated to making my dream come true. I got on mailing lists. I read every sales letter that arrived in my mailbox or my inbox. I copied out word-for-word what I felt were the most persuasive, well-written sales letters as many as five times each so I could internalise great copywriting into my subconscious mind.

To put what I had learned into action, I approached the management at the Marriott hotel in Honolulu where I was working and offered to write a newsletter-type tourist guide for them, for free, just to get the experience and samples for my portfolio. I sold advertising for the newsletter and wrote the ad copy for them as well.

The newsletter became a great success and I was able to get writing samples from big-time companies. Those writing samples helped me land more work and led to working full-time as a copywriter.

Now, the work finds me. It’s not uncommon to open my email in the morning and find several job proposals. I’ve also found that attending seminars, conferences and “bootcamps” for copywriters is a great way to find new work. There is something magical about face to face contact that can really help cement a working relationship and lead to new opportunities.

Freelance copywriting has got to be one of the best jobs in the world for income-minded world travellers like me. You can live anywhere you want, work any time you want and there is the potential to make as much money as you want, if you’re willing to work for it. n

How to Make An Idyllic Tropical Island Your OfficeBy Jason Gaspero

Over the past decade, I’ve lived and worked in places like London, Paris, Dublin, Bali, Panama, Mexico, Nicaragua, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. And I’m nowhere near finished exploring yet.

Most weeks I work about 40 hours. However, my hours are flexible and my “office” is wherever I want it to be. I’m my own boss.

At the moment I choose to work from my apartment on the Thai island of Koh Phangan.

It’s got an absolutely incredible view of the Gulf of Thailand and the island of Koh Samui—about 10 kilometres away as the crow flies. It’s especially nice at sunset and one of the most dream-like places to “work” I’ve ever experienced.

In a nutshell, copywriters write words that sell products. For example, I might write a simple sales letter that promotes an investment newsletter. Or I may write catalogue copy for a nutritional supplement manufacturer and distributor. Or perhaps I’ll write web copy for a self-help or other business website. Every company needs someone to write the persuasive message that will entice consumers to buy their product, from shoes to software.

The money can also be very good. I know copywriters who make in the six-figure range.

I earn money not only from what I write every day, but also from royalties on past projects. Some months I may only bring in a few thousand dollars from royalties, other months I may make upwards of $17,000 from project fees and royalties.

“I make upwards of $17,000 from fees and royalties.”

Have you got what it takes to be a copywriter? Look at an advertisement in a newspaper or magazine—it doesn’t matter what the product is. Now answer these questions.

• What message is being conveyed about the product? • Does the ad have a “unique selling point?” (This could be a

competitive price, better quality, convenient location or easier maintenance.)

• How would you improve it? • Try writing a new headline for the ad, followed up by a three

or four sentence paragraph. Include a unique selling point. If you think yours is better, you could have what it takes to be a

successful copywriter. You could be earning great money, writing a few hours a day from anywhere in the world you choose to live. Get AWAI’s Accelerated Program for Six-Figure Copywriting here and learn how.

Can YOu DO What JasOn DOes?

You can work on the beach, or anywhere else that takes your fancy, with a portable income.

20 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

FEaTuRE SToRy

© T

hIN

k4p

hO

TO

p/is

TO

ck

Home Comforts on a Tropical Thai Island—Phuket from $3,000 a Month

By kirsten Raccuia

patong has all the First World amenities you could want, including hospitals, movie theatres and international restaurants.

T urquoise waters lap the white-sand beach fringed with casuarina trees. There are no jet skis or banana boats

here; just a few stand-up paddle boarders and a kayak or two. A few ubiquitous longtail motor boats that sound like loud lawn mowers are scattered in the water, but you can still hear the birds singing away in the trees. Not a beach lounger in sight, just a few mats and towels strewn in the shade. Get a massage while listening to the waves and melt away into the idyllic surroundings.

I am on Nai Yang beach. This is a secret part of Thailand’s biggest island—Phuket—just off the southeast coast in the Andaman Sea.

Phuket is a place where you’ll find everything a tropical island is supposed to offer—diving, fishing, glorious beaches—and is also big enough to boast five hospitals, dozens of seaside towns and over 25 beaches ranging from the secluded to those packed with tourists. The international airport has flights to just about anywhere in the world; England, Germany, China, the U.S., and with four direct flights to Sydney and three to Melbourne, it won’t take long before your first visitors arrive.

Around a sixth of the 600,000 people living on Phuket are expats from all over the globe. And it’s a popular spot for holidaying foreigners, too. It’s only eight hours to Perth and about nine to Melbourne and Sydney, so a good portion

of those expats and holidaymakers are Aussies. Perfect when all you want is an Aussie pub to watch a cricket or rugby match in. There are even some places where you’ll hear more Australian accents than Thai.

You won’t long for the creature comforts of home here, as Phuket has all of the amenities that you are used to. It’s exotic island living with all the familiar conveniences of home which makes for an easy transition if you decide to retire here. The best part of having it all in Phuket is that everything is ridiculously affordable.

Dozens of white-sand beaches fringe the island…roaring waterfalls tumble down jagged rocks…national parks are a nature lover’s paradise…Taoist and Buddhist temples and Buddha statues

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 21

the direction of the incense and you’ll find a local praying. When you are tired of Thai green curry and pad Thai, or if you just want a steak, some French cuisine or a cold beer with fellow English-speakers, options are plentiful all over the island. There are fresh seafood markets scattered about where you can pick the local daily catch and have them grill it right there with the most piquant ginger and lemongrass sauce. There are countless restaurants and cafés to choose from; you’ll never get bored.

You’ll find most of the island’s expats live on the western and southern portions

dot the island…colourful local markets…award-winning golf courses (only $100 for 18 holes)…postcard-worthy lookout points…this paradise is everything a dream retirement is made of. You’ll never be bored here.

If you feel like getting off the island, there are 32 other little islands at your doorstep to go island hopping to or just drive over the Sarasin Bridge to the mainland and explore the neighbouring Phang Nga Province that has some of the most exquisite landscape on earth. It’s the kind of island that is big enough to explore and get off the beaten path while living in a well-trodden one. One of the benefits of moving to Thailand is that, while it’s tropical and exotic, it’s easy living. It’s not so different that you will have culture shock and has all the amenities you might need, which adds to it expat popularity.

Food is cheap, delicious and there are plenty of international options. Rents are affordable even for those with a smaller budget—$775 per month will get you a two-bedroom townhouse in a quiet neighbourhood. Couples report living well on around $3,000 a month. The people are friendly and the traditional Thai culture is evident.

Phuket has something of a party reputation, and you can certainly find that here. But this is a pretty big place—570 square kilometres. From tip to tip it’s around 48 kilometres in length and 21 kilometres wide. Getting away from it all is easy; pull off the road towards the ocean and you can explore some small deserted cove. Rent a scooter and find a narrow dirt path to ride down and you’ll find a hidden temple, in all its gilded glory, at the end of it. At any given time, follow your nose in ©

kh

ELLO

N/is

TO

ck

of the island where the infrastructure is just like that of any western country. This part of the island is home to Phuket’s best retirement havens…each offering something different.

Bangtao—Phuket’s Best Beach Town Smack in the middle of the west coast

and 30 minutes south of the international airport is my top pick for a place to call home on Phuket.

Bangtao is the kind of town where you can play golf all day, have sundown cocktails on the beach and then eat dinner with the locals at a food market. It’s perfect if you want the comforts of home, at a fraction of the cost, mixed with the allure and exoticism of Thailand.

This little town is known for its six-and-a-half kilometre stretch of uninterrupted beach that’s perfect for a long stroll or just sipping a $5 cocktail and watching the sunset at Red Sun Bar with Nestie, the owner, who makes you feel like you’ve been best friends for a lifetime.

It’s a little village in its own right so you won’t have to go far. The main drag runs perpendicular to the beach and is sprinkled with restaurants and apartments. But it still feels rural in some ways; across from the modern seafood places are rows of date palms being munched on by cows and goats. Nearby is the quirky Boat Avenue, an outdoor shopping plaza made from container ships.

There you can shop for wine and prosciutto at Villa Market, a bathing suit at Katalina Collection, take a yoga class or eat tapas at Divino (starting from $7.50). Every Friday night there is a market where you can eat cheap local food from any number of vendors for around $6 a plate

The six-and-a-half-kilometre stretch of Bangtao beach is perfect for a long stroll.

“Rents are affordable, $775 will get you a two-bedroom town home.”

A couple can live well on $3,000 a month (including rent) pretty much anywhere in phuket.

The most economical way to find a rental is by taking your time and walking around the neighbourhood. Finding a place on your own will save money and allow you to negotiate. some of the real estate agents I met with found their own homes that way and they pay significantly less than any of the rental listings they have.

One expat told me, “Always negotiate your rent during low season when the demand is low and the landlord is unsure how good the high season will be. They usually will go lower just to have someone paying the rent.”

A full-time helper that will clean and cook daily costs $460 a

The Cost of Living in Idyllic Phuketmonth or if you just need someone hourly it costs $5.75 an hour. A general doctor’s visit is $11 and a dental cleaning is $15.50. A Thai massage at a lovely spa is just $10. You’ll pay a bit more for a massage at the beach—even though you might get sand in your swimming costume, but I think of that as a free exfoliation treatment.

A movie ticket is only $4.75 unless you decide to go for the VIp seats ($27) where you sit in a comfy, lazy-boy recliner, eat appetisers, drink wine or beer and have wait staff to make sure you never have to leave your seat or are thirsty.

The first year is always the most expensive because you don’t yet know the ins and outs, the hidden secrets or where the locals go. But with time, you’ll be the expat in the know.

FEaTuRE SToRy

22 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

with expats and locals that live here year-round. “Living away from the beach gives you more of the real Thai

flavour,” says expat Dan Skitch, who moved to Chalong with his family a year ago. “It has a less transient feel than some of the beach towns nearby so you can actually get to know your neighbours, which is helpful when moving to a new country and not speaking the language. You don’t need to live in a gated community here, and except for the occasional snake in my yard, it is very safe: we never even lock the car.”

Chalong has everything you need, from great restaurants to grocery stores and a nearby hospital. It has more of a Thai feel than Bangtao but it’s a little more spread out so having a car is helpful, although taxis are plentiful.

Dan takes an intensive language class for two to three hours a day, five days a week and he’s come a long way. He pays $186 per month for schooling and the same amount for the three-month visa that the school provides for him. He can do that for a year and then choose another course to study. He says, “You can get by with English, but it really helps to learn a little Thai. They appreciate me trying, no matter how bad I am.”

There is good international food available here. The Wine Connection has pork chops ($11) and steaks ($14) that can be paired with various wines, which they also sell to take away. Go to Bellini’s for authentic homemade Italian pizza ($9) and pasta ($7) or even Tandoori Nights for Indian where you can get a half Tandoori chicken dinner for $7.

At the We Café, right in the heart of Chalong, the first thing you notice is the wall of windows overlooking their hydroponic garden, where the food is grown in mineral-rich water without soil. I ordered the most delightful salad and saw someone go out there and cut my lettuce from its watery home. With over 30 veggie and meat options, it wasn’t an easy choice but I settled for all of my favourites: edamame, beetroot, goat cheese, steamed broccoli, sautéed mushrooms and tender grilled beef. This came to the grand total of $6.

For the most part, everything in Chalong is within a 15-minute drive. The international grocery chain, Villa Market, is where you can get Aussie beef and French cheeses. Of course, there are local markets and grocery stores for all of your basics, so you don’t have to shop at the high-end stores, but at least there is that option when you want triple crème brie from France. Having organic food and fancy grocery stores nearby doesn’t make this area more expensive to live than any other, it just offers more variety. In Chalong, you have your choice of city living with organic shops, cheaper rents

of pad Thai and listen to live music while sipping a cold one ($3) at BeerBox Avenue.

If you’re a golfer, the award-winning Laguna golf course is at your doorstep: $3,500 for a one-year membership, $14,000 for five years and $18,700 for 10 years. Or, if you prefer something more action packed, a nearby Muay Thai Boxing ring has weekly fights.

It’s not a touristy beach area with stall after stall hawking sarongs and sunscreen; it’s an expat area that happens to have a fabulous beach. It feels like a happening and friendly little village that’s truly liveable. For me, this town is a perfect blend of having it all and getting away from it.

For just $950 a month you can get a two-bedroom apartment with a shared pool and gym within a 10-minute walk to the beach. It is directly next door to Boat Avenue so you are steps away from everything, including Villa Market grocery store and dozens of restaurants and boutiques. A five-minute walk away and you’ll have your choice of the swank Siam Supper Club or Big Boss seafood for tasty eats. Or choose a fully furnished two-bedroom bungalow with two ensuite bathrooms, a garden, and a terrace for $1,050. This home is only a five-minute drive from Bangtao beach and the Laguna Golf Course and is right in the middle of everything. See: IPropertyPhuket.com and PhuketRentHouse.com.

A good place to start scouting Bangtao is Aussie hangout Pepper’s Sports Bar. There you’ll find expats who are happy to pass on any tips and tricks they’ve learned.

Chalong—Safe and ConvenientChalong is not a beachside town; it’s more like a little city smack

bang in the southern part of the island. Drive 20 minutes out and you can have your choice of five nearby beaches or drive 30 minutes to the southwest coast and be in Patong, the most popular tourist town on Phuket. Living here makes exploring the southern half of the island simple. You can set up home in a quiet neighbourhood

chalong Wat (temple) is just one of the 29 temples in phuket.

© T

ELN

YAW

kA

/DRE

Am

sTIm

E.c

Om

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 23

and it’s near to everything. While there I found a modern, three-bedroom house in a gated community called Land and Houses. It’s a large modern develpoment with a pool, gym, tennis court, club house, restaurant and even a day-care centre for $975 a month. See: Phuketrenthouse.com.

Patong—A Very Liveable Party Town Patong gets a bad rap, but in my opinion, it isn’t very accurate.

Yes, there is an area of Dionysian nightlife, but that is a small portion of the neighbourhood. The rest of Patong has all the First World amenities you could want. Here you will find huge shopping centres, hospitals, movie theatres, bowling alleys and more international restaurants than you have time to enjoy. Oh, don’t forget the spas and beaches. Patong feels less like traditional Thailand than other areas because of its level of tourism but that is exactly why all the best amenities on the island are here.

Bangla Road in Patong is a street lined with open-air bars full of scantily clad girls. It’s not a place many expats live and it sees throngs of tourists. I pulled my husband Mark into a huge bar and sat right next to the pole. Surprisingly, once inside I realised there were more couples and women than single men, in fact, the women were the big tippers, the ones chatting away with the dancers. For many people it’s a “see it once” type of place.

The Bangla Road area is easy to avoid, and there is plenty to do around there as long as you don’t mind the traffic during high season. Just outside of Bangla Road, there are movie theatres, shopping centres and hundreds of restaurants, not to mention a few of the crowded beaches Phuket is known for.

Getting a retirement visa here is easy as long as you’re at least 50 years old. Besides the basic paperwork, a clean police record and a doctor’s certificate stating you’re in over-all good health, you must prove that you have the equivalent of at least 800,000 baht (about $30,000), or a monthly income of 65,000 baht ($2,400) or a combination of both that is the equivalent of 800,000 baht.

Retirement Visa Requirements

Nai Yang has been missed by tourists so far but not for long. .

© D

ELTA

OFF

/isT

Oc

k

Patong is nice when you want to party, a place to bring visitors that like the weird and wonderful, the down and dirty, but aren’t easily offended.

What is great about this area is the ease of having all of the conveniences at your doorstep; a hospital, grocery stores, shopping malls, beaches, movie theatres, you name it, it’s in Patong. Rents in Patong start at $1,000 for a two-bedroom apartment but, as with anywhere in Thailand, negotiate, negotiate, negotiate. Or better yet, take a drive 15 minutes in any direction and settle in an entirely different world.

Patong is located along the southwestern coast of the island, about one-hour south of the airport. Fifteen minutes farther south

down the coast are the neighbouring towns of Karon and Kata. They are the slightly less touristy neighbours of Patong and there is no “red light district” so this might be a good place to live if you want all the conveniences of Patong but without all the mayhem.

Nai Yang—Secret Paradise, But Not For Long This place is a little slice of paradise which just

happens to be a hidden secret. It is only 10 minutes from the international airport yet is somehow missed by most of the tourists. There isn’t too

much to do here other than lay under a pandan tree, get a massage and listen to the waves. Even the small beach bars are only playing music loud enough for the patrons inside the bar to hear. It seems as if everyone wants to pay homage to the ocean and don’t want to disturb its natural presence. If you are the, read a book and listen to the waves kind of person, you’ll love it here.

You won’t find all the amenities of Chalong, Bangtao or Patong, but they are only a 30-minute drive so you aren’t isolated. Nai Yang is quite small so having a scooter here is ideal.

Sirinath National Park, which is part-marine and part-land, runs along the coast here which ensures that there will be no development to the north of Nai Yang. From November to February, sea turtles nest and lay eggs on the area’s beaches.

Nai Yang is a little cheaper than elsewhere on the island. It’s more local and less touristy. The prices of every day goods, some local foods and market items are cheaper. A green curry in a café in Patong usually costs around $6.50, the same in Nai Yang is around $4.50. It’s a traditional fishing village, so expats can wait for the local fisherman to come in from their daily expedition and buy directly from them instead of at the local market; another way to save a little money.

Wat’s Bar is a local bar with sandy floors and a pool table. It attracts an unpredictable crowd from young party types passing through to older expats that live in the area. The owner Wat (which also means ‘temple’ in Thai) is welcoming and makes sure your libations are always full and the pool table is always being used.

It’s a fairly simple place to live with mostly locals and fishermen making their homes here. Living here would be amazing if you are happy to drive 15 to 30 minutes for major nightlife and any superstores you need to visit. A brand new, fully furnished, two storey, two-bedroom townhouse a 10-minute drive from the beach and only a few from the airport, can be found for as little as $775 a month. Or you can find a Thai-style house in a gated community with two bedrooms, two bathrooms and a patio, that is fully furnished, only a five-minute drive from the beach and town centre for only $645. See: Phuketrenthouse.com. n

“The National Park ensures

there will be no development to the north.”

24 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

MARKET WATCH

that happen. A government program will see an investment of €100 million (almost $148 million) into the Wild Atlantic Way, a coastal driving route that runs from Cork all the way to Donegal in the north. Part of the investment will see more cycle routes and sailing routes opened up along the coast.

I visited recently and tourists were already here. They drive their camper vans, with licence plates from all across Europe, along the narrow winding roads. They chat in pubs to the sound of traditional music playing in the background. They wait by ferries to take day trips to one of the

peninsula’s many islands just off the coast.

Four different cycling groups were there for a weekend. Fishing enthusiasts, too, flock here for the many fishing spots. Others come to meditate in the massive Buddhist retreat just outside the town of Castletownbere.

Ireland’s first Buddhist monastery, a multi-million project, is planned.

And tourist numbers on Beara should increase in the next decade. The heavy government investment and a strong tourism marketing campaign will help. The play here is to buy something unloved, add

Big gains. A steep increase in value. That’s the end game when investing in property. Sometimes this comes as a result of a Path of Progress

event—a new road, airport or other piece of infrastructure leading to a price rise. Other times, you buy into a market crisis ahead of that market’s eventual recovery when prices will increase.

Sometimes, the key to seeing strong capital appreciation is to take something overlooked or unloved, invest time and money into it, and profit from the value you’ve added.

Untouched Irish BeautyIn the southwest county of Cork, is

the Beara Peninsula—a 48-kilometre-long peninsula jutting out into the wild Atlantic Ocean. It’s a natural wonderland, a place of big skies and country landscapes of tiny, postcard-perfect fishing towns.

Jagged mountain peaks—the Caha and Slieve Miskish Mountains—craggy rocks poking out of grassy hills and endless kilometres of Atlantic Ocean stretching out from the shores.

The last time I needed to unwind, this was where I headed for a weekend break. You can drive for hours without seeing anyone else, outside of the occasional farmer and his children shearing sheep just off the road.

It’s peaceful, quiet and relaxing. But, for a long time, it’s been overlooked. Not because it’s an unattractive place—as I said, it’s stunning—but because it’s fallen off people’s radar.

That’s because tourism efforts in decades past focused on better-known destinations and driving routes, like the nearby Dingle Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry.

That’s changing. In the future, more tourists will come. Ireland’s tourism body, Fáilte Ireland, is working to help make

Find a Cottage in Romantic Ireland That Could Make You $190,000 or MoreBy Ronan McMahon

© S

. GRE

G P

AN

OSI

AN

/iST

Oc

k

value, and then you could be sitting on something much more valuable—maybe by €90,000 ($132,881) or even up to €150,000 ($221,468) more.

You may be able to rent out your place to holidaymakers while you wait for it to sell. Or, if you decide to sit on your place and use it for your own enjoyment, you can rent it out when you’re not using it.

You will have some rental income but it will be seasonal. My point is that any rental income will just be the cherry on top of our opportunity here. This is a straight capital appreciation play.

The people who live on the Beara Peninsula are an eclectic bunch. There are the people who have lived here for generations—entire families who have worked the same land or found work fishing the Atlantic.

Undervalued, Traditional HomesThere are well-to-do escapees from

across Europe who have come here for a quieter life. It’s not unusual to meet an English financier turned small farmer here or a Swiss industrialist turned novelist, rubbing shoulders with locals in the pub beside a roaring fire. (They’re the kind of people who will be interested in the farmhouse or cottage you buy, either as a

“ In the future, more tourists will come.”

Farmhouses in southwest cork often come with fantastic sea views.

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 25

You’ll find available properties on websites like Daft.ie or Myhome.ie, under “Beara,” or “county cork,” Or specifically Ardgroom, Adrigole, Tuo-sist, castletownbere and Bere Island. There’s also a property registry where you can check prices of homes sold since January 1, 2010.

Finding Property in Ireland

full- or part-time home.)Then there’s the artistic

transplants who came here in the last 30 years—artists, musicians and other creative people who have set up shop. As you drive, you’ll see signs everywhere for galleries and handicrafts: hand-knitted sweaters, pottery, paintings and more. They came when land here was so cheap that it cost almost nothing and set themselves up to earn income from the tourists who followed in their tracks.

All of them—the locals and the newbies—are spread across this peninsula. Some live in the small fishing towns along the route, like Castletownbere; others in holiday favourites, such as the towns of Ardgroom, Glengarriff, Eyeries or Allihies. But a great number of them live somewhere in between—along the winding roads that connect each town. A lot of them live in newly built homes—modern bungalows, often with views to the Atlantic Ocean. They’re fine, as homes go, comfortable and an okay place to live. But the most charming homes to buy here, the ones with the most history and appeal, are the most overlooked.

The true bargains to be found here are the traditional cottages and farmhouses that have fallen out of favour.

The locals here don’t see the value in the cottages and farmhouses that dot this coast. Often, it takes an outsider coming in to recognise the beauty and value of an older building.

But that lack of attention from locals is to your benefit. It means you can pick up an older property, maybe a little uncared for but well-constructed and charming, for a song.

Prices have risen since those first creative types came. But there are still plenty of bargains to be found in those cottages and farmhouses.

Add in Ireland’s recent crisis and now is the buying moment for homes on the Beara Peninsula. Ireland suffered badly in the economic crisis that hit Europe in 2008/2009. The market crashed and prices tumbled. Today, Ireland’s overall real estate market is in recovery with prices rising steadily countrywide, especially in the capital

city Dublin. But, in more rural areas, like the Beara Peninsula, prices are still catching up—which means you could pick up a bargain right now.

Our Play on the Beara PeninsulaOur play on the Beara Peninsula is

a simple one: You snap up one of those overlooked cottages or farmhouses that dot the countryside outside of the main towns. Buying an older property close to the ocean comes with a major benefit. For a new build, chances are you won’t get planning permission to build so close to the water. But if you buy an existing structure, permission is already granted. Some of these older properties come with the best views on the entire peninsula—so you already have something special.

You could pick up one of these older cottages or farmhouses for €120,000 ($177,174). With a bit of searching, you could even spend a little less or find a farmer who’s willing to sell quick and cheap. You’ll likely pay more for a farmhouse

than a cottage. But €120,000 ($177,174) is the budget to keep in mind. If you manage to buy for under that, that’s a bonus.

Next step is to invest some time and money into renovations. These properties tend to be dated. You’ll need to invest maybe €30,000 to €40,000 ($44,294 to $59,058) into fixing one up. When that’s done, you’ll have a property you could sell to the right buyer for up to €250,000 ($369,113)—to one of those English, Dutch or Swiss second-home owners. That’s a profit of up to €100,000 ($147,645).

Spend a little more on renovations, say €80,000 ($118,116) in total, and you could do even better. Build an extension or maybe renovate an existing outbuilding into a guest bedroom or artist’s studio. I expect you could sell something like this for up to €350,000 ($516,759).

Right now, the Beara Peninsula is overlooked. But there are buyers who are looking for a special place, an escape by the Atlantic Ocean, who have money to spend. And, as more tourists and moneyed artists and ex-captains of business come, your traditional farmhouse or cottage will be in demand.

As I write, there are two listings in the town of Ardgroom that have my attention. One is a farmhouse with ocean views in reasonable condition that would sell for €120,000 ($177,174). The other is a wreck of a farm home that lists for €75,000 ($110,734). If you could get it down to €60,000 ($88,587), it’s a great buy. Another home—on Bere Island with dramatic ocean views in need of complete renovation—is listed at €80,000 ($118,116). The opportunity on these may have passed by the time you read this so check the box on the left to see how to find properties. n

Editor’s Note: Find your own romantic Irish cottage with the help of Ronan McMahon’s Real Estate Trend Alert. Subscribe today and find out more about opportunities in Ireland and around the world. Ronan is executive director of Pathfinder, International Living’s preferred real estate advertiser.

26 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

Denmark with more than 100% of the electricity it needs. Last year, the country set an internal record: producing 42% of its entire energy demand from pollution-free wind power—and that was with two key wind farms offline.

Wind Power Gaining MomentumWind power is nothing new, of course.

As a species, we’ve been exploiting the wind to propel boats for more than five millennia. Seventh-century Persians (maybe fifth, maybe ninth; no one is quite certain)

are thought to have been the first to employ windmills for commerce, erecting horizontal structures that captured desert winds that, in turn, helped pump water and grind grains and sugarcane.

Wind and electricity first paired up in

Scotland in 1887 when a professor built a windmill that powered his home for a quarter century. Half a century later, in 1941, on a Vermont hilltop, the U.S. stationed the world’s first wind turbine capable of generating a megawatt of power—a million watts of electricity—and

INVESTMENT

© B

IRG

ER N

Iss/

isT

Oc

k

The wind turbines at Øresund can supply Denmark with 100% of its electricity.

Get in Now on the Growing Wind Power RevolutionBy Jeff D. Opdyke

I wasn’t so much scared of the height as I was scared of the width—and the wind.

Definitely the wind.I thought I needed a better

perspective on things, and the things I needed a better perspective on meant I needed to perch myself on what turned out to be the narrowest of steps, 91 metres above Copenhagen, at the tippiest top of the steeple atop the three-centuries-old Church of Our Saviour.

The theme of green-energy is unstoppable. The Danish company that ranks as the world’s largest maker of wind turbines, made those that were spinning in the Øresund that day I was clinging to the steeple. This company has strong winds blowing at its back in terms of current and future order demand.

The tread on which I stood was just a few inches deep at most; the great majority of my size 12 foot hung off the end. The width between the steeple and the railing was barely larger than my hand. I balanced on my heels, grasping the railing with one hand while trying to shoot a short video with the other.

And that’s where the wind comes in.It was roaring—or at least it felt like it.

That high up, and balanced so precariously while trying to record a video, even a passing pigeon seemed to leave tropical storm gusts in its wake.

But the things we writers do to get the story we want to tell…

And the story I wanted to tell was spinning in the wind blowing through the Øresund—the gulf that separates Denmark and Sweden.

There, a string of enormous wind turbines sticks out of the sea, capturing the breeze and turning it into electricity for the country. On some days, wind power generates so much energy that it supplies

“Wind-power technology is in full sail.”

connected it to the power grid.Ever since, the pursuit of wind power

has been about as stable as the wind itself—sometimes blowing in gusts, sometimes as dead as the horse latitudes ancient sailors faced in subtropical waters where wind went missing for long stretches of time.

Today, wind-power technology is in full sail as the world grapples with the idea of global warming.

I won’t tackle the arguments for or against a warming planet. I will only say that governments globally are imposing ever stricter standards on consumers and industry to shrink their energy footprint and reduce reliance on fossil fuels, most particularly coal, and to rely increasingly on renewable energy.

A number of ways exist to go green, some more practical than others. Two pennies, a couple of zinc-coated nails, some copper wire and a potato are all you need to power a small lightbulb. A bit impractical, but very green nonetheless. At scale, however, there are but a few real options today that allow the modern world to keep its menagerie of iPhones and laptops sufficiently powered: nuclear, hydro, solar, geothermal, tidal and wind. Each plays a role in the greening of global

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 27

power, depending on geography and topography. Hydro certainly won’t work well in the desert, though solar certainly does. A solar farm, however, makes little sense in Norway, but hydroelectric plants and offshore wind farms in the North Sea are clearly brilliant solutions.

For baseload power—the “always on” power you want to know is available every time you flip a light switch, day or night—nothing, at this point, beats nuclear.

But solar and wind are the clear winners among the intermittent power sources. (Intermittent because they only generate power as long the sun shines or the wind blows.) Moreover, intermittent might not be as intermittent as it first seems. We’re moving toward an arrangement in which intermittent-energy power plants, tied to one another in an array, can produce baseload power, or something very close to it.

The U.S. isn’t too far away from the day that wind farms in eastern Colorado, Oklahoma and the Dakotas are linked to solar farms in New Mexico and Texas and Arizona to provide always-on power across a large region. The idea is that if it’s cloudy or windless in one area, it’s likely sunny or windy somewhere else. And, just in case the wind and the sun aren’t cooperating at a given moment, a supply of instant-on natural gas will backstop the system to provide the necessary power.

Such interconnectedness—tying various renewable power sources together across different geographic areas—effectively creates a baseload power system. Intermittence increasingly becomes less of a factor. And given the geographical limitations of hydro and geothermal power, the social and financial hurdles of nuclear and the technical challenges of tidal energy at the moment, solar and wind win by default as the primary sources of intermittent power that the world’s utility providers are pursuing.

The numbers bear that out.

A 692% WindfallIn 2015, the U.S. Energy Information

Agency (EIA) reported that electricity-generation companies added 9.8 gigawatts of wind capacity to the U.S. energy infrastructure and 2.2 gigawatts of solar. (More than 13 gigawatts of coal- and

petroleum-fired power went away). For 2016, the EIA projects that companies will add 9.5 gigawatts of solar capacity and gigawatts of wind. No other alternative energy source comes even remotely close.

This is the future we will see unfold through at least the 2030s and, likely, beyond.

That’s largely because researchers and investors have put so much money and effort into wind and solar for the last few decades. As happens with any technology, the cost of wind and solar installations has fallen.

Onshore wind power, at roughly $54 per megawatt hour, is cheaper to produce than any other power source other than coal. In many cases, it’s substantially cheaper than solar, which comes in at roughly $67 per megawatt hour, and which, at the moment, sucks up most of the oxygen among investors looking to place their wagers on a green-energy future.

Today, wind generates 433 gigawatts of power globally—which means nothing to anyone who isn’t a mechanical engineer or a physicist. Basically, that’s enough power to meet the average daily

demand of about 20 Sydney cities. It’s a lot of power—and it’s growing quickly.

Even though wind currently supplies enough power to keep the lights on in a score of Sydneys, wind represents only about 2.6% of the world’s supply of power. The International Energy Agency (IEA) expects that will rise to about 18% by 2050.

That’s a 692% increase.That’s a long way off, no doubt. And

who knows how accurate the IEA’s analysis will have been by the time another three decades pass. Still, the direction of the trend is the important point.

As I said, most other forms of green-energy technology are either geographically limited or aren’t yet ready for prime time.

That means that wind and solar—with their decades of proven success and their falling cost structures—are the go-to sources of green energy right now.

Global Governments Guarantee Wind’s Future

At the Paris climate conference last spring, there was a clear view among the 195 or so participating countries that they will increase efforts to rein in greenhouse gas emissions by deploying green-energy

solutions. They aim to raise green energy to 36% of global power supply by 2030, mainly through wind and solar (again, because it’s so cost-effective now). Who knows if they will reach that goal by then?

Three Powerhouses Shift to WindLast year, China installed more than

30 gigawatts of wind power, representing almost 50% of all new wind-power capacity introduced globally in 2015. That gives China more than 145 gigawatts of wind-energy generation overall, about one-third of global capacity.

Europe, which I look at as a unified market because of all the cross-border power-sharing arrangements and the various treaties and such that bind the countries together economically and politically, installed nearly 19 gigawatts of wind power and now has an installed base that, at 142 gigawatts, slightly trails China.

The U.S. comes in at No. 3 globally: having installed 8.6 gigawatts last year (slightly less than 14% of global installations) and home to about 75 gigawatts of total capacity (17% of world wind power).

Looking ahead, global wind-power demand will see cumulative capacity nearly double to roughly 800 gigawatts, an annualised growth rate of 13%.

This number is conservative yet still represents huge growth. And the wind company I have found is clearly a primary beneiciary. Its wind turbines power about 16% of all that wind-power capacity in the world, and there’s no reason to think that will change as power companies continue rapidly building new wind farms. n

Editor’s Note: As a lifelong world traveller, Jeff D. Opdyke has been investing directly in the international markets since 1995, making him one of the true pioneers of foreign trading. He is Investment Director for The Sovereign Society and the editor of Total Wealth Insider, The Sovereign Society’s exclusive monthly research newsletter.

““

The cost of wind and solar installation has fallen.”

Global wind power has an annual growth rate of 13%.”

28 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

IncoME ovERSEaS

© V

ALE

RIE

FORT

NEy

-Sc

hN

EId

ER

deals can still be found here. While in most of Tuscany, prices for a farmhouse on a few acres of land start at $1.1 million, in Le Marche you can get the same for $258,850 to $517,700.

Together, in 2007, they bought just under seven hectares of land near the charming hilltop town of Offida, known for its 13th-century church. As it happened, the house that came with the land was a licensed B&B. And this enabled them to start earning from the start.

“We weren’t looking for a B&B,” says Dwight. “It just happened that a good piece of land suitable for a vineyard had a functioning B&B on it. So it gave us something to do for three years while we were waiting for the first harvest.”

The Le Marche region is off most tourists’ radar. Instead, it attracts discerning travellers in search of authentic Italy. “We get very nice guests and it is really a pleasure to run a B&B here,” says Dwight.

In the years following their purchase, the duo planted 35,000 vines, starting the Paolini & Stanford Winery. Dwight’s lifestyle now is very different from the one he left behind. “I am never really stressed. Maybe a little, when I am driving a tractor, because the tractor is bigger than I am and can cause damage!”

Running a sustainable organic vineyard means he is outside, working with the earth, every day. And Dwight loves the fact that something good comes out of it. “I enjoy working with the vines, seeing them grow, seeing the grapes turned into wine. It gives me great satisfaction.

“I get up early, go through my emails and check Facebook to make sure I haven’t missed anything. Then I prepare

A Low-Stress Life With a Winery in the Hills of Italy

Everywhere I look, I see a vineyard, an olive grove, a farm patch with sunflowers, the mountains,” says 58-year-old Dwight

Stanford. “It’s like a patchwork quilt. We live in the most beautiful hills in Italy. We are only 25 minutes from the sea and 45 minutes from the mountains.”

When Dwight took a sabbatical from his demanding job in the U.S., little did he know that he would end up setting up a winery in Italy. Now he spends his spare time with his fiancée, Maryse, going to local festivals and rambling through the bucolic landscapes and beautiful, medieval hilltop hamlets of Le Marche. “We really like hiking in the Sibillini Mountains and visiting new places around here and across Italy,” he says.

After working for 25 years as a stressed-out surgeon, Dwight wanted to do something different. “I got an email from the Slow Food Association (a movement that aims to counter fast food by preserving more traditional food cultures), asking if I wanted to do a Master’s in food science near Parma, in Italy. I thought it was a good way to take a sabbatical,” he says.

“I thought it was my Thelma & Louise moment and decided to hit the accelerator and go off the cliff and see where I landed.”

In 2005, Dwight packed his bags for Italy. And although he didn’t speak Italian, he patiently went to all classes, trying to master the language.

The course also allowed him to meet people who shared his passion for fine wine. When his classmate, Raffaele Paolini, mentioned that he wanted to open a winery, Dwight jumped at the chance to turn his passion into a business.

“We were looking to buy a winery in Tuscany, but couldn’t find anything that was affordable,” says Dwight. “So we started looking in the Le Marche region where prices were still reasonable.” Although property prices have risen slightly in Le Marche over the last few years, great

By Anna Lebedeva

dwight Stanford arrived in Italy without a word of Italian and now runs a winery in Le Marche.

breakfast for the B&B guests. For the rest of the day I’m working in the vineyard, micromanaging every plant.”

This also gives him an excuse to enjoy Le Marche’s excellent weather all year round. The climate is very comfortable, “with a nice wind arriving from the Adriatic most days to lower the humidity.”

For most of the year, all the work is done by Dwight, Raffaele and Maryse. They hire some part-time help in the high season at the B&B and for the grape harvest. Last year the winery finally started making money. “It was the first year that we were able to pay all the bills, as well as our own salaries,” says Dwight.

The enterprise is still young and Dwight admits that selling wine is the most difficult part of the business. But he remains optimistic. They produce 25,000 bottles of organic wine a year, to be sold in Italy, the U.S., Canada, Germany and Finland.

Dwight’s cost of living in Le Marche is comparable to what he was paying back home. “The total weekly food bill is more or less the same as back home, with meat costing more, but vegetables and fruit less, so it evens out. We spend about $90 a week on groceries for two people,” says Dwight. “Eating out can be less expensive here—certainly wine prices are ridiculously low and there is no tipping. Pizzas are cheaper here, as well. In local restaurants we pay $32 to $38 per person for a meal.”

When Dwight first moved to Offida, he met no one who spoke English for three years. Now there is a small and friendly English-speaking expat community in the area. He met Maryse, who’s Dutch, on a trip to Tuscany a few years ago. They plan to spend two months back home every year, relaxing with friends and family but also promoting their winery.

“I am happy with my choice. I love the scenery here, the slow pace of life and the warm Italian culture.” n

“I love the scenery, slow pace of life and warm Italian culture.”

“

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 29

© A

sIA

ND

REA

m/is

TO

ck

capital, Phnom Penh, a city that fuses colonial-era architecture with Buddhist temples and royal palaces. And despite this magnificent setting, costs pale in comparison to his home country.

“The cost of living in Phnom Penh is so ridiculously cheap,” says Michael. “What I used to spend back home in one week more than covers my expenses here for the whole month. My basic overhead to cover rent, food and social activities is not much more than $1,900 a month.

“I love the simple things that I can afford to get done for much less here. Small things, like a visit to get my hair cut, are so much more pleasant—and a heck of a lot cheaper.

“My favourite place to go is the Tokyo Barber Shop, where I get my hair washed and shampooed by a lady who also gives me a free head massage, followed by a very professional haircut by one of their barbers. And all for just $6.50.”

After only a year of writing, he generated a decent side income and attracted a number of repeat customers

Writing Funds Five-Star Travel From Cambodia

When it comes to expat living, many retirees lean toward Southeast Asia. And Michael Wells is no different. For the

64-year-old, it was a place that fascinated him.

“I always felt more drawn toward the Eastern world. But why did I choose Phnom Penh? Well, Cambodia was always somewhere I had heard about on the news years ago. Initially I was hesitant until I started to investigate more into the current status of the country.

“Cambodia attracts millions of tourists and plenty of expats, too, because of the low cost of living, the simple residence visa requirements and the all-round attractiveness of the place.”

Michael knew that he couldn’t afford to retire back home and have the kind of life he dreamed of.

A little money goes a long way in Phnom Penh—it’s possible to live comfortably on a pension cheque here. But to give himself some extra income, Michael goes one step further.

“I supplement this with part-time writing for corporate customers,” he says. “This allows me the financial freedom to do pretty much whatever I like when it comes to my passion for luxury travelling, which I partake in as often as possible.

“I began writing a few years ago now, using a website called Elance, where I built up a profile of my capabilities and areas of expertise, and then bid on projects posted by potential employers. This was a way of both keeping myself busy and earning an extra income at my own pace.

“I was lucky enough to have bought property a while back, and despite still having a mortgage at the time, the ongoing boom in prices meant I had enough equity to give myself some options. Although the more I looked at it, the more I realised that my best chance at having a decent retirement would be somewhere overseas.”

Michael has made his home in the

By steven king

“It’s possible to live comfortably on a

pension cheque here.”

who liked his style of writing and ability to deliver on time.

“Elance has since merged with a similar website to become a new platform known as Upwork. But, due to my existing customer base, I don’t even have to bid for projects anymore. I have established a strong clientele who seek me out directly.”

It’s a line of work that suits him down to the ground.

“Aside from the financial benefits, I can’t emphasise enough the pleasure of being my own boss. For years I worked for other people. Now I get to be in charge of when I work and who I work for.

“I am in a position where I am writing only to earn enough money to further my adventures in Asia. This is about elevating my comfort levels and expanding my horizons.”

Michael loves to spend this extra income on his travels. So far, he has visited Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Burma, where he stays in five-star hotels for a fraction of what they would cost back home.

But a life in Phnom Penh did mean a few adjustments.

“I definitely endured some culture shock by moving full-time to Asia.

“I had visited before, but though this helped prepare me for the move, no amount of tourist trips can ever fully make you ‘ready.’

“But I have enjoyed every moment of my culture shock, as it has been a learning experience. Everything from the change to an Asian rice- and noodle-based diet to learning to speak some rudimentary Khmer has been something I have savoured.”

If, like him, you’re thinking of embarking on a new life abroad, he says you should look deep inside yourself and contemplate your future.

“If I could go back 30 years to give myself a piece of advice, it would be this: Plan for your future without setting any limitations. Don’t confine yourself to one place or outcome, and let the world remain open to your dreams.” n

michael spends just $1,900 a month to live in the bustling capital of Phnom Penh.

30 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

TRAVEL

© IA

N M

c D

ON

NEL

L/is

TO

ck

peppers, onion and coriander—a heaping cup for $4.A two-bedroom villa in the centre of town and steps from the

beach is $1,247 per month, everything included. (This and all properties mentioned here are furnished and fully-equipped with kitchen supplies, towels, etc. and include utilities and high-speed internet.)

Tamarindo: Tamarindo features several breaks along its long gracefully curving beach, with gentler, more beginner-friendly waves to the south, and more powerful waves near the river mouth. It’s an ideal jumping off point to Playa (“beach” in Spanish) Grande just across the river, as well as Playa Avellanas and Playa Negra about a half-hour south. This where I learned to surf. With the many surf school and board rentals in town, my skills improved quickly with daily practice.

Beach bars and restaurants line the sand in Tamarindo, offering the perfect setting for sunset viewing. In town you have chic boutiques, spas and restaurants. For filling Costa Rican meals, you’ll pay about $6.76. For international dishes, you’ll pay about double.

A one-bedroom apartment a block from the beach, fully-furnished with kitchen, patio, living room, air conditioning and a tropical garden will cost you $1,605 a month—all up.

Witch’s Rock Surf Camp is a hotel, restaurant, beach bar, microbrewery (be sure to try the pale ale—that’s my favourite), surf school, surf shop and tour company all rolled into one. They’ll take you in a shuttle to the famed breaks of Ollie’s Point, an hour to the south, and Witch’s Rock, an hour to the north, reachable only by panga (small open boat with outboard motor).

Nosara: On the Nicoya Peninsula is little Nosara. It’s a charming town that has been a well-known surf spot for many years. It’s a centre for yoga, alternative healing practices and healthy living. Homes, shops and restaurants are spread out in the forest along the coast, with sandy roads snaking between the trees.

The main surfing beach, Playa Guiones, has a beach break surfable at all tides with multiple line-ups. It’s virtually undeveloped thanks to a large wildlife refuge that protects nesting sea turtles. Nothing but the water, beach and grass-covered dunes. It’s one of my favourite beaches for that reason. Just be sure to pack in your own drinks and a sunshade as there are no stores nearby…and certainly no loungers or umbrellas for rent.

A one-bedroom villa, that sleeps five and is close to shops and the beach, is $2,270 per month.

For board rentals, equipment and local knowledge, be sure to check in with Steve, the owner of Coconut Harry’s. He’s been in town for years and knows it well. n

Nosara is a surfing hotspot and centre for healthy living.

Thanks to consistent, high-quality waves and a variety of breaks, Costa Rica has been one of the world’s top surfing destinations for decades. It’s famous for breaks like Ollie’s Point, Witch’s Rock (made famous in the movie Endless Summer 2), Salsa Brava (site of

many national surf contests) and Little Hawaii—from pro-level to beginner-friendly.

With low costs, good value real estate and a great climate—highs in the low- to mid-30s C during the day year-round and cooling off at night—Costa Rica has a lot to offer out of the water too. And don’t forget the warm and friendly Costa Rican people. There’s a saying in the country: Pura Vida. It translates literally to “pure life.” But it’s more like “life is good,” and it’s an attitude locals and visitors alike share. By the way, many Costa Ricans speak English.

It’s the perfect spot to spend a few months…or more. And with warm water throughout the year, you can leave that wetsuit at home.

There are world-class surfing beaches up and down the 1,290 kilometres of Caribbean and Pacific coastline. But here are three of the best.

Dominical: Tall mountains drop dramatically to the southern Pacific coastline. This is the rainforest, which is full of wildlife like capuchin and howler monkeys, sloths, coatimundis and other creatures.

Dominical is known for its powerful waves (a hollow beach break) best left to experienced surfers. Just to the south in Dominicalito, it’s calmer. It’s a funky little beach town, with a few open-air eateries and handicraft vendors in the shade of palm trees. You can buy fresh seafood off the boat. You’ll pay about $13.50 per kilo for red snapper or sushi-quality tuna. And be sure to check out roadside stands for ceviche, fish marinated in lime juice with

Three Must-Visit Surfing Beaches in Costa Rica

“ Costa Rica has a lot to offer out of the water too.”

By Jason Holland

costa Rica has two international airports, Juan santamaría in the capital, san José, and Daniel Oduber Quirós in Liberia, in the northwest corner of the country. For northern Pacific beaches fly into Liberia. For all the rest go to san José.

Rental cars are widely available. Get a four-wheel drive sUV if you plan to explore off-the-beaten-path surf spots. In some rural and remote areas, the roads can be rough.

Two regional airlines can get you to surf breaks around the country in about 45 minutes from san José: sANsA and Nature Air. Flights start at $100 one way.

Getting There and Getting Around

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 31

The minaret on the Koutoubia Mosque is more than 800 years old.©

SEq

OyA

/iST

Oc

K

$5.40), sumptuous carpets, brightly decorated ceramics ($2.70 for a small souvenir bowl) and exquisite pierced-metal lamps entice you into mysterious alleyways. There are delights to suit every pocket, but unless you have a guide (Abdellatif Benhrima is one of the best and most experienced: you can email him here), just wander at will.

You barter for everything in the souks, whether it’s a single candle or a luxurious carpet. There is a Moroccan saying that goes, “You eat, I eat, we all eat,” which basically means, don’t be a cutthroat bargainer just to save a few dollars and “beat” the salesman. He won’t sell it if he can’t make a profit. If it’s something large you have set your heart on—a Moroccan rug, for example—you’ll be offered mint tea and invited to admire the vendor’s stock. Set the price you are prepared to pay in your head, offer about one-third of it and work your way to a compromise—and do it with a smile.

You can spend days wandering the souks. But there are plenty of other diversions

in Marrakech. A bike may seem unlikely transport for a visitor to this razzle-dazzle city, given its traffic’s raucous reputation. But Argan Xtreme Sports offers a couple of tours for enjoying the view from the saddle. One tour takes you through the city centre, with a stop in Jmaa el Fna for freshly-squeezed orange juice. Another is an hour-long, off-road adventure through the Palmeraie, the largest palm oasis in Morocco, where the upper crust hides itself away in stunning homes. Half-day tours cost $46 to $73 per person.

For a more elegant saunter around the city, go to the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, more than 800 years old. At 77 metres tall, it’s the second-highest minaret in the Islamic world; no building

in Marrakech is allowed to be higher. In its shadow, green-painted calèches, horse-drawn carriages gleaming with burnished brass, invite you to take a romantic ride around the city and on to the Palmeraie. Calèche drivers usually charge around $24 an hour. A trip around the city walls—all 12 kilometres of them—with a

visit to the Pameraie is about $40. Don’t go during rush hour or you’ll see the same stretch of city wall while your hour passes. Always negotiate the price before you get in, and make sure that price isn’t per person, but for the whole calèche.

If you’re tempted to ride a camel, a creature with the charm and manners of a troll, you can do it in the Palmeraie. Don’t make your calèche wait, though; get a taxi back instead. Figure on paying $20 to $26 for 30 minutes, but again, you need good bargaining skills to get a decent price.

To visit Marrakech without seeing the Jardin Majorelle is to miss one of the city’s highlights. Designed by French artist Jacques Majorelle during the early 20th century, the garden is an oasis of calm, with coconut palms, banana trees, marble pools, bamboo groves, bougainvillea and a collection of cacti. It also houses a museum of Berber life, a glorious collection of art and artefacts of the indigenous tribes. Stunning jewellery, ornate costumes and beautifully carved objects from daily life are also on display. The magnificent main gallery, with its domed, star-studded ceiling, is worth the visit in its own right. You’ll pay $7 to get into the garden itself and $3.35 for entry into the museum. n

Discover Exotic Souks in Morocco’s “Red Rose City”By Derek Workman

Say “Marrakech,” and a magical world of souks (markets), snake-charmers and storytellers unfolds like the unrolling of a luxurious Moroccan

carpet. Gardens filled with exotic cacti and palm trees lie beside bustling souks awash with the colours and smells of a medieval Moroccan market.

Marrakech, known as the “Red Rose City,” was once one of North Africa’s most prominent trading posts. Camel caravans up to 12,000 strong would cross the Sahara to get here, with cargos of gold, spices and salt from the ancient metropolis of Timbuktu, 3,057 kilometres to the south.

North Africa’s most vibrant and exotic square, Jmaa el Fna, is Marrakech’s ancient heart. Known centuries ago as “The Place of the Dead,” here the heads of criminals were spiked on poles as a warning to others.

During daylight hours, you’ll see fresh orange-juice vendors and red-robed water sellers, purveyors of powders and potions to heal all ills and henna artists creating intricate designs. Nut and dried fruit merchants display their wares next to snake charmers and acrobats. As night approaches, the square transforms into the world’s largest open-air restaurant. The exotic scents of grilled meats, slowly cooking tajines (meat stews infused with fruit and vegetables), and the subtle scent of simmering snails perfume the air.

To dine like a local, try one of the tiny, cupboard-sized cafés in the streets that radiate off the square. Here single-portion tajines are cooked on a gas burner while the cook flips battered fish, deep-fried in a blackened frying pan. Prices vary enormously, but a lamb tajine for one, with four merguez—the wonderful Moroccan lamb sausage—and salad will cost around $10, with a complimentary serving of olives. However, you may want to leave the bowl of sheep’s testicles to the locals.

Even more delights await you in the souks, where Aladdin’s caves an arm’s width wide, full of soft leather babouches (gorgeously-coloured slippers from around

“ Enjoy the colours and smells of a medieval market.”

32 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

International Living ClassifiedsYour guide to real estate, rentals, travel services, education, employment and money-making opportunities worldwide

classifieds.internationalliving.com/index.php

2 2

PROPERTY FOR SALE

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES US$1.75 per word, CAPS and bold US$0.25extra per word, add a box for US$10, image is US$50. International Living Australia subscribers receive a 20% discount. Prepayment is necessary, ad deadline is 4 weeks preceding publication. To place a classified ad please contact advertising@internationalliving.com. Visit our classified website at classifieds@internationalliving.com. Use this special promotional code (20ILA0916) when you check out to avail of your 20% subscribers discount (code valid for September only).

All listings are accepted on a first come, first servedbasis. International Living Australia reserves the right to disqualify any listings it deems unsuitable. International Living Australia does not endorse these organisations or their Respective products, services or programs. In addition, International Living Australia shall not be responsible for any and all liability, including negligence, that may arise from a member’s use of theadvertisement’s. “Caveat Emptor” applies – let the buyer beware.

SERVICES

BUSInESS OPPORTUnITIES

“Live The Dream in Your Own Caribbean Paradise.”

Guest House in Cozumel, Mexico US$495,000Email: dmkagardner@gmail.comWebsite: www.moosepages.com

COSTA RICA

• 19 AC PRIVATE RESERVE & HOME

• 2.5 AC VIEW LOT PLUS MORE

WILDLIFE CORRIDOR

CENTRAL PACIFIC

ranchomirando.point2agent.com

TUSCANY/UMBRIASeeking 2 more partners for gorgeous hilltop villa. Reduced to 60,000 euros/ share. For details and video: ginny@international-property-shares.com

Costa Rica: Live the Dream—for a week, a month, a lifetime. Residential Rentals. www.latorrecostarica.com

PROPERTY FOR REnT/TRADE/TIME-SHARE

Mexico’s Riviera Maya – Four-Day Trip for only $180. You’ll be picked up at Cancun airport and stay in luxury accommodation, food and drinks included, for three nights. You’ll get full tours of the area, the powder beaches and buzzing beach towns close by – and check out the property options in an established community with five-star amenities. Contact info@pathfinderinternational.net and quote Zen to find out more and book your spot.

Fall and Winter available

$2,500 USD per person

www.kenubelizeit.com

CPI SPANISH IMMERSION COSTA RICAYear-round Spanish classes specialized

to adult learners (10% discount off classes when you mention this ad)

www.cpi-edu.com

PANAMA ATTORNEYwww.kraemerlaw.com

“Sign up for our Free Webinar! Coming soon.”

LIFE IN CHILE: A FORMER AMERICAN’S GUIDE FOR NEWCOMERSThe most comprehensive book on immigration to Chile ever written includes over 1600 pages packed with twenty years of experience and expertise from the perspective of an American adjusting to life in Chile. Life in Chile is for everyone considering Chile, as well as those already enjoying the country. Topics include everything from visas to guns, gold, taxes, geography, real estate and much more! Don’t blunder your way through. With its extensive appendices and clear table of contents, Life in Chile is like having a consultant at your fingertips.escapeamericanow.info/resources/life-in-chile

Life Is Great!Fuel your passions through the stock market.

Learn to day trade S&P 500 stock options for consistent, confident profits.

One stock, one strategy, one hour for stunning daily gains.

We teach you how. Work from anywhere, anytime.

Free introductory e-book.www.daytradeSPY.com

Learn to Trade Stock Options

A lot of people are enjoying life overseas using our simple system.

Learn and earn in 30 days trading stock options.From novice to experienced, we fast track you to

success.Free Introductory e-book/webinar

www.spydaytraders.com

EDUCATIOn

Experts Plan Your Overseas RetirementLas Vegas, USA • November 10–12 2016

You could be living in paradise right now…for half what it costs to stay

home. And this November we’ll show you—step-by-step—exactly how…

Every so often, events tran-spire in just such a way that a window of opportunity slides open somewhere in the world. Most people won’t notice. They’ll walk right by. But when you know where to look…and have the foresight to act…you could find yourself living better than ever before, and for a lot less than you can imagine…

You could double your disposable income…find that perfect second home you’ve always dreamed of…grow your nest egg…and secure a comfort-able future both for yourself in retirement and for your kids…

You have more and better op-tions overseas today than we’ve

IL’s CaLendar of events

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 33

© C

OLL

EEN

CLA

pp

To show you exactly how it’s done, step-by-step, we’re flying in our in-house experts from around the world to share their advice, insights and recommendation. You’ll hear from…

Dan Prescher: Currently based in Ecuador, Dan has also lived in Mexico, panama and Nicaragua. He and his wife, Suzan Haskins, are our down-to-earth and practical-minded eyes and ears on the ground in Latin America.

Keith Hockton: As Keith will tell you: the value you’ll find in Malaysia is truly extraordinary. A couple can live here comfortably on $1,700 a month and that’s including rent.

Steve LePoivedin: Steve has been our eyes and ears on the ground in Thailand for more than two years now and he’ll be on hand to talk about why—if value for money is at the top if your priority list—Thailand might suit you well.

Ronan McMahon: Ronan of Real Estate Trend Alert and pathfinder, International Living’s preferred real estate advertiser, will be on hand. You’ll get the important insider guidance (and cautions) on buying overseas, as well as the secrets to finding your perfect real estate investment…

Experts You’ll Meet in Las Vegas

seen in decades…whether you’re looking to make money, save money, live better for less, retire more comfortably or simply travel the world in style without spending a fortune…

That’s why, this year—for the first time ever—we’re hosting a brand-new event we’re calling our Retire Overseas Bootcamp. It’s designed to set you up with a concrete, right-there-in-your-hands, personalised plan of action to take you from where you are to where you want to be. The experts will walk you through how you do it—step by baby step. This program is all about the process—the questions you need to ask, the considerations you should make, the order in which it’s best to go about this or that.

At the same time, you’ll dig into a whole raft of destinations around the world. You’ll get fa-

miliar with all kinds of places…from Thailand to France…Ec-uador to Ireland and Colom-bia…Costa Rica to Mexico…Belize to Spain…from Panama to Nicaragua, Malaysia, and beyond…

We’ll discuss the techniques and solutions available to you when you’re overseas that can help you diversify your portfo-lio, save on your taxes, better protect your privacy and give you increased flexibility in the way you travel, invest and retire. From offshore structures to sec-ond passports, we show you the lay of the land and introduce you to experts who can show you what to do.

This November—over three highly focused, interactive days—we’ll pinpoint for you the communities that would suit you best and hand you a per-sonalised blueprint for getting there. Retire sooner, spend less and live better…that’s the end goal. You can do it in all sorts of beautiful, welcoming, good-weather communities that dot

the globe from Southeast Asia to Europe to Latin America.

Laidback beach escapes…qui-et mountain getaways…universi-ty towns…cosmopolitan cities…in the right communities you can live a richer, more engaging life than you do today.

On a budget of $1,925 a month, a couple can live ex-tremely well in many places and afford the sort of comforts only the very wealthy can bankroll at home.

And imagine how simple it would be if somebody would just tell you where you should go and show you the steps for getting there.

Well at the Retire Overseas Bootcamp that’s exactly what we’re going to do.

If you like the idea of living overseas…enjoying a bit of adventure…and saving money while you live a more relaxed, fun, fulfilling lifestyle…but you aren’t sure about where you should go or how to actually get yourself there…then join us in Las Vegas this November. n

Whether it’s the historic splendour of Chiang Mai or the bright lights of panama City, we’ll help you find the ideal retirement spot for you.

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 3534 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

GLOBAL PROPERTY NOTES

Pontevedra, Spain: An Historic Home in a Medieval Town

In Spain’s far northwest, with the Bay of Biscay to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west, is the always-green province of Galicia. The interior is mountainous, cut by what’s said to be 1,000 rivers, including some large rías—wide estuaries that reach to the coast, with sandy beaches, vibrant fishing villages and treacherous cliffs.

In the Galician countryside is an 18th-century convent turned large private home. It’s been restored and modernised, with almost 300 square metres of living space. The property of just under 0.4 acres has a large manicured garden, with fruit trees, surrounded by a tall stone wall. There’s also a separate house of 140 square metres. It’s close to the area’s premier beach town, Sanxenxo, which

draws throngs of Galicians during the summer months. Also nearby is the historic city of Pontevedra, which has a history going back to Roman times and is full of medieval-era plazas and narrow pedestrian avenues.

The private house can be yours for $439,420. Or put down 20% and pay $1,325 a month over three years.

Sligo, Ireland: Suffused With Traditional Culture

Set at the mouth of the Garavogue River that feeds into the Atlantic Ocean, and surrounded by green-covered mountains, Sligo is well known as a centre of traditional Irish music, as well as other cultural and sporting events. W.B. Yeats spent his summer holidays here as a child, and the region inspired many of his works. So far it’s gone unnoticed by most tourists and therefore retains much of its authentic Irish charm.

In a rural area just east of Sligo Town, in a mature forest, is a 102-square-metre, 19th-century church converted into a two-bedroom home. It’s been restored to modern standards, with the original cut stone walls, steeply pitched slate roof and solid oak and flagstone floors enhanced by teak windows and doors and by granite countertops in the kitchen. The living room features a large fireplace. It’s on the market for $220,800.

Loire Valley, France: A Former Priory

The Loire Valley in central France is sprinkled with hundreds of the country’s most extravagant fortresses thanks to its popularity with kings, queens, dukes and nobles. It is also home to many quaint villages and thriving vineyards.

A former 12th-century priory just 200 kilometres from Paris is available for $549,763. Located in the Loir-et-Cher, in

© C

OLL

EEN

CLA

pp

H istoric homes always have a special character. They don’t build ‘em like they used to—the attention to detail

and craftsmanship stand out. And you can’t help but imagine what life was like for the previous inhabitants.

Former places of worship and religious buildings in Europe take it to another level. These deconsecrated churches, chapels, convents, abbeys and monasteries have been restored and converted into comfortable—and usually spacious—private homes. Imagine a stained glass window depicting the life of a saint above the sofa in your living room, intricately-carved stonework around the front door or an authentic vaulted ceiling…combined with high-speed internet, granite kitchen counters and a flat-screen TV.

Whether you want a rural existence or the action in town, you can find one of these centuries-old structures to suit your needs. n

Sacred Places Turned Into Romantic Homes

SEPTEMBER 2016 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G 3534 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

the Centre-Val de Loire region, the almost 3,900-square-metre property was restored in 1966. It includes five bedrooms and two bathrooms.

Kingsbridge, England: A Haven on the Water

In England’s far southwest, in the county of Devon, is the market town and tourist destination of Kingsbridge. At the end of an estuary that hits the sea nine-and-a-half kilometres south, Kingsbridge’s waterfront is lined with restaurants, shops, cafés and a long promenade tailor-made for afternoon strolls.

Sailboats anchor just offshore—it’s popular with sailors and kayakers. And clifftop trails high above the water and

through the inland countryside make it perfect for hikers. The larger South Hams region is known for some of the most unspoiled coastline in England.

A four-bedroom home—a former Methodist chapel in the centre of the village, with stone walls, stained glass windows and a living room with a high, vaulted ceiling with original timbers—is available for $525,140.

Tuscany, Italy: Rural Charms in Wine Country

The area surrounding the medieval town of Quarrata, in Tuscany, was once home to Etruscan settlements and a Medici-controlled hunting ground.

The adjacent Montalbano hills are also well known for the high quality carmignano and chianti wines they produce.

A small chapel turned one-bedroom villa in a rural area outside town is ideally situated for enjoying the romantic Tuscan countryside. It’s surrounded on four sides by gardens and lists for $174,150. Florence, the best place to view the Renaissance through art, architecture and more, is only 20 kilometres away.

Belturbet, Ireland: A Fisherman’s Dream

Surrounded by the River Erne and numerous lakes, the town of Belturbet in County Cavan, 112 kilometres north of Dublin, is one of the best fishing destinations in Ireland—trout and pike are abundant.

You can explore its waterways by boat, kayak, or canoe or ramble through the countryside on extensive walking trails. And when you’re tuckered out head to town for a pint in a cosy pub.

On the outskirts of town is a 160-year-old chapel built in a Gothic Revival style turned two-bedroom home. It sits on 0.37 acres, with the surroundings a mix of woods and sheep pasture. You’re also a stone’s throw from a marina that gives you access to the river. It lists for $291,400. n

S tories of tragedy, romance, comedy and re-imagined myth and legend, interpreted by soaring sopranos and

graceful tenors. pound for pound, opera is one of the most dramatic, distinctive and powerful musical art forms. Mozart, Strauss, Verdi, puccini, Wagner…these composers were like rock stars in their day…and with their work still being performed regularly, they remain so for today’s audiences. Hundreds of hours of opera are available at your fingertips online, but there’s no substitute for a live performance of your favourite aria. What better places to see your favourite productions than cities around the world that still have a vibrant opera scene…and provide an attractive place to live, too.

With over 50 different operas performed there each year, the Vienna State Opera is one of the world’s most active venues. The ornate opera house has adorned Austria’s capital since 1869. For $224,235, you can have a one-bedroom apartment near a large park and in the heart of Vienna.

Considering that opera originated in Italy in the 16th and 17th centuries, it’s no wonder that many of opera’s best-loved productions, best singers and most enthusiastic fan base are from Italy. The country is also home to one of the world’s most famous opera houses: La Scala in Milan. La Scala was built in 1778, and many say you haven’t really “made it” until you’ve performed there. A one-bedroom apartment close to one of the main arteries into the city centre is available for $173,650.

When a city in the New World boomed, it was common for the local shipping magnates and industrialists to show off their newfound prosperity. They would also embrace the arts: painting, sculpture…and opera. In Buenos Aires, Argentina, the Teatro Colón opera house is a vital part of the city’s cultural life. The venue is said to have some of the best acoustics in the world. A two-bedroom apartment in Recoleta, the neighbourhood just north of the opera house, lists for $256,416.

Great Opera Cities Around the World

Check out your archive for more real estate on ilaustralia.com

36 I N T E R N A T I O N A L L I V I N G SEPTEMBER 2016

ThE LAST WORD

M y Saturday mornings usually begin with a short cycle down a quiet back road to my

favourite French pâtisserie. Over a breakfast of a delicious omelette, croissant and cappuccino, I plan my day. Picture-perfect balmy weather and a fresh, southerly breeze? Looks like I’m going sailing. Or, if I need to do some work, I may toss my laptop into my backpack and take a short bicycle or motorbike ride to a nearby beach.

That’s a perk I never imagined was possible when I lived in Australia. It’s my reality here. When the weather is nice, which is most of the time, I throw my laptop over my shoulder and ride my motorbike to a beach restaurant. Sometimes I get a little work out of the way first over a cup of coffee and sometimes I start my day off with a refreshing dip.

Of course there is work to do, but it’s work I enjoy doing and when I take a break from looking at my computer screen, I see the blue sea spread out before me and verdant islands dot the horizon. I’ve worked at my beach office hundreds of times, but never take it for granted. The memories of being trapped in an office are now a thing of the past.

Doing what you love rather than simply working for a living. Easy to say, but harder to do when you live in an expensive country and have bills to pay. When I moved to Sihanoukville, Cambodia in 2007, I had some money, but knew it wouldn’t last. By 2009 I knew it was time to find a way to make a living. What was I going to do?

I loved writing, but didn’t think I could earn enough money to cover my expenses as a freelance writer back home. I was sceptical that I could follow my dreams and make money. It seemed too miraculous

that it would open doors. Then I found myself in Sihanoukville facing a decision. I could take the “safe” route and go back to Australia and find a job or I could take a leap of faith and follow my dream.

In Cambodia it dawned on me that I could finally live my dream and become a full-time freelancer. Did I want to go back to a life of routine or did I want to do what I loved doing? I chose the latter and am still grateful for making the decision to take that leap. Stepping off a cliff is always scary, but because I was doing work I loved, I grew wings and rose to the challenge.

I can’t say it was easy at first. I had to learn the ropes and find well-paying clients. The difference was that here in Cambodia I could afford to go through an apprenticeship and I jumped in with both feet. After only a year I had one well-paying client. Over the years, others have followed and I’m making a reasonable living now. If I wanted to, I could afford to move back to Australia, but I’d have to give up the perks that come with living in Sihanoukville, like my beach office.

How much does my beach office cost? Lunch and a coffee costs around $6 and a large bottle of water adds another dollar to the bill (they top up my ice for free). The staff looks after my laptop and other belongings when I go for a swim: no charge except for the tip I leave them at the end of the day.

I am by no means a unique example. Joe Royle came here from Canada at about the same time I arrived in Sihanoukville. He had made good money designing steel warehouses and factories, but had always wanted to design houses. He finally got his chance, here. He has designed and project managed dozens of projects ranging from interiors to restaurants,

bungalows and a few mansions. It all started when he designed his own home on a hill overlooking the sea. His first clients hired him on the strength of his beautifully designed home and now Joe has dozens of projects under his belt. He works hard, but loves his work and still finds time to enjoy the Sihanoukville lifestyle.

Shazi Shah is still in her thirties. She had a well-paying job in the banking industry. She liked the pay, but didn’t like the job. When she came to Sihanoukville, she opened a vegan restaurant and now offers yoga courses upstairs. She has set up shop in the popular backpacker haven on Serendipity Road and aside from her regular expat clientele, backpackers flock to her restaurant for some of the best and most nutritious meals in town. She doesn’t make as much money as she did before, but it goes further and, more importantly, she is happy.

When Sam Rihani and Katie Baggott came to Sihanoukville, they wanted to teach

English, but then they had a better idea. They started a small business called Excellence in Service (EIS) which teaches hotel and restaurant staff English and helps them learn how to give better customer service. Demand grew and they opened a school. Today, their team teaches English to over 1,500

students from toddlers to adults and EIS is recognised as one of Cambodia’s best English language schools.

We’re all examples of people with dreams we couldn’t afford to follow in our home countries. Expat living gave us the opportunity to follow our dreams and enjoy a lifestyle we could never have imagined back home. And you can do it too. The world is yours for the taking, you just need to find your passion and take the plunge. n

“Expat living gave us the opportunity to follow our

dreams.”

By Rob Schneider

Follow Your Passion And Plunge Into Life Overseas