SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK OUR READERS - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/crete-5-index.pdf · children, for 31-2 companies 26 Adele 89 Agia Galini 99-100 Agia Irini Gorge

Behind the Scenes

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book.

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who usedthe last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interestinganecdotes: B Leanne Beattie, Chris Biles, Wendy Bolt, Muriel Boselli, Paul Bryant C David Chubb, Mary Collins D Bavo Deneckere, F Seth Frantzman G Robyn Galloway H Jennifer Horne, Malcolm Hornsby K Mira Kautzky, Andrew P Kirk, Yvonne Kwakkestijn L Tassilo Lang M Sabrina Magnabosco, John Margaritsanakis, Chiara Mealli, Jacquelien Meijer, Peter Mynors N Janet Nicolas P Devid Paolini R Ewan Ross S Tami Shellef, Massimo Stefani, Pamela Stokes T Emma Tikunova W R Wakefield, Claire Waysand, Laura Woodman

AUTHOR THANKS Andrea Schulte-Peevers First up, a big thank you to Anna Tyler for giving me a shot at this book. A heartfelt thank you also to my husband David for being such good company while tooling around the island, and to Miriam Bers for her fruitful referrals. Big kudos to all the good folks who showed us amazing hospitality and generously shared their expertise and local insights, including the Papadospiridaki family, Vaggelis Alegakis, Nikos Miliarakis, Ioannis

Giannoutsos, Marianna Founti-Vassi and Moin Sadiq.

Chris Deliso Many Cretans provided good tips and good company. These include Manolis (Paleohora), Stavroula (Kissamos-Kastelli), Manolis, Rena and Ioanna (Hania), plus Leftheris and Giannis (Iraklio). The Lonely Planet crew, which helped steer the good ship Crete into harbour, also has my heartfelt appreciation: commissioning editor Anna Tyler, everpatient coordinating author Andrea Schulte-Peevers, and the production and map-making teams. Na eiste kala!

Des Hannigan My thanks to the many friends and passing strangers, both local and nonlocal, who have helped and advised me on my wanderings through the ‘Great Island’ over the years. They are too numerous to name, but I hope they have all been aware of my gratitude and affection.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.


©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd


Cover photograph: Traditional Cretan Windmills, Ano Kera, Iraklio Province, Crete, 273 Greece, Walter Bibikow/Corbis Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

BEHIN

D TH

E SCENES

This Book This 5th edition of Lonely Planet’s Crete guidebook was researched and written by Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Chris Deliso and Des Hannigan. The previous two editions were written by Victoria Kyriakopoulos. The 1st edition was written by Jeanne Oliver and the 2nd by Paul Hellander. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, laid out by Cambridge Publishing Management, UK, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Anna Tyler Coordinating Editors Karen Beaulah, Gina Tsarouhas

Coordinating Cartogra-pher Andras Bogdanovits Coordinating LayoutDesigner Paul Queripel Managing Editors Helen Christinis, Annelies Mertens, Tasmin Waby McNaughtan Managing Cartographers Amanda Sierp, Shahara Ahmed Senior Cartographer Anita Banh Managing LayoutDesigner Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Kathryn Glendenning, Michala Green, Kim Hutchins, Andi Jones, Hazel Meek, Martine Power, Saralinda Turner

Assisting LayoutDesigner Julie Crane Cover Research Sabrina Dalbesio Internal ImageResearchers Rebecca Skinner, Aude Vauconsant Illustrator Javier Martinez Zarracina Colour Designer Tim Newton Indexer Marie Lorimer Language Content Laura Crawford Thanks to Jessica Boland, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Heather Howard, Trent Paton, Jessica Rose, Julie Sheridan, Gerard Walker


http:www.lonelyplanetimages.com

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A abseiling 56 accommodation 175-99, see also

individual locations agrotourism 177 all-inclusive resorts 176 apartments 176 camping 177 children 33 costs 175, 178 domatia (pensions) 176 ecocottages 64 hostels 177 hotels 176 internet resources 176 language 265-6 mountain refuges 25, 177 studios 176

activities 15, 21-7, see also individual activities, locations

children, for 31-2 companies 26

Adele 89 Agia Galini 99-100 Agia Irini Gorge 24, 56 Agia Marina 43, 46, 48 Agia Paraskevi Cave 144 Agia Pelagia 127 Agia Roumeli 54, 55-6 Agia Sofia Cave 72 Agia Triada 138-9, 139 Agias Fotias 173 Agii Theodoroi 47 Agiofarango 106, 143 Agiofarango Gorge 24, 142 Agios Georgios 161-2 Agios Nikolaos 10, 152-7, 154, 10

activities 153 children, for 31 drinking & entertainment 155 festivals & events 153 food 153-5

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

history 152 internet access 156 medical services 156 shopping 156 tourist information 156 tours 153 travel to/from 156 travel within 156-7

Agios Pavlos 98-9, 106, 106 Agora (Hania) 43 Agreco Farm 89 Agria 70 agri-industry 169 agrotourism 177 air travel 258-9, 263

airlines 258-9 airports 13, 258 carbon offset schemes 258 Greece, travel to/from 259 tickets 259

Akrotiri Peninsula 52-3, 248 all-inclusive resorts 176, see also

individual locations Almyrida 75 Amari 95 Amari Valley 95, 95 Amygdalokefali 72 Anatoli 172 Ancient Eleftherna 90 Ancient Kydonia 43 Ancient Lappa 88 Ancient Lato 157-8 Ancient Minoa 52 Ancient Olous 160 Andartis – Partisan of Peace

sculpture 93 Anemospilia 130 animals 247, see also birds,

birdwatching dolphins 63, 247

kri-kri goats 54, 88, 248 loggerhead sea turtles 73, 140, 248 monk seals 248 sperm whales 247

Aniston, Jennifer 237 Anogia 91-3 Anopoli 58 Anydri 65 Anydri Gorge 65 apartments 176, see also individual

locations Apodoulou 95 Apostoli 95 Aptera 75 aquariums 143-4, 145 Aradena 59 Aradena Gorge 27 Archaeological Museum (Agios

Nikolaos) 152

Archaeological Museum (Hania)

41-2

Archaeological Museum (Rethymno)

80-1

Archaeological Museum (Sitia) 165 Archaeological Museum of Arhanes

129-30 Archaeological Museum of

Kissamos 69 archaeological sites, see also Minoan

sites Ancient Eleftherna 90 Ancient Lappa 88 Ancient Lato 157-8 Aptera 75 Diktynna 68 Falasarna 71 Gavalohori 76 Gortyna 104, 135-7, 105 Lebena 143 Lissos 61 Polyrrinia 69-70 Sougia 60

area codes 13, 255 Argyroupoli 78, 87-9 Arhanes 129-31 Armeni 93-4 Arolithos 128 arsenals

Hania 42 Iraklio 115

art galleries, see also museums Municipal Art Gallery (Hania) 42 Municipal Art Gallery (Iraklio) 115 Museum of Contemporary Art 81 Museum of Religious Art 117 Neorio tou Moro 42

arts, see also film, music, painting, pottery

dance 231-2, 236 festivals 17, 117, 153, 165, 171 fine arts 233-4 literature 203, 233, 234-6 Minoan 226-9

Askyfou 55 ATMs 13, 253 automobile associations 262 Avdou 27 Axos 91 Azogires 39, 65-6

B Bali 101-2 Balos 14, 70, 106, 107 banking hours 250 bathrooms 255 Battle of Crete 215-16

Battle of Crete Anniversary 17, 47 Battle of Crete Museum 117

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beaches 14, 106-7 Afrata 67 Agia Pelagia 127 Agias Fotias 173 Agiofarango 106 Agios Nikolaos 153 Agios Pavlos 98-9, 106, 106 Bali 101 Balos 70, 106, 107 Damnoni 97 Elafonisi 8, 73, 106, 8 Falasarna 71, 106, 107 Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi Island) 173 Gavdos 66 Gialiskari 65 Hania 46-7 Hiona 167 Ilingas Beach 56 Iraklio 117 Kalathas 52 Kissamos-Kastelli 68 Kommos 106, 141 Kouremenos 30, 167 Lendas 143 Ligres 98 Makrygialos 173 Marathi 52 Marble Beach 2-3 Marmara 59 Matala 106, 140, 106 nudist 66, 71, 99, 140, 143 Orthi Ammos 59 Paleohora 61-2 Panormo 100 Polyrizos-Koraka 97 Preveli 10, 98, 106, 10 Souda 97 Sougia 60 Sweetwater 56 Tersanas 52 Triopetra 98, 106 Vaï 11, 166-7, 11 Xerokambos 169

beer 96, 241 Bembo Fountain 115 bicycle travel, see cycling & mountain

biking birds 133, 247-8

eagles 248 lammergeier (bearded vulture)

248 birdwatching 21, 247-8

Akrotiri Peninsula 248 books 247 Georgioupoli 73 Lake Votomos 133 Livada Lake 133

boat travel, see boat trips, ferry travel

29-index-cre5.indd 279

boat trips, see also canoeing, kayaking, yachting

Agia Galini 99 Agios Nikolaos 153 Bali 101 dolphin-watching 63 Elounda 159 Gavdos 66 Gramvousa Peninsula 70 Hania 47 Ierapetra 173 Nautilus semi-submarine 153 Plakias 96 Rethymno 83

books, see also literature archaeology 227 birdwatching 247 churches & monasteries 213 Cretan society 220 food & drink 238, 240, 244 history 53, 215, 218 literary history 235 online book list 220 wildflowers 248

budget 12 bull-leaping 228 bungee jumping 21

Aradena Gorge 27, 59 bus travel 260-1, 264 business hours 250 Byzantine and Post Byzantine

Collection of Hania 42

C camping 177, see also individual

locations discount card 250

canoeing 60, 74, 101 canyoning 26, 46 car travel 259, 261-2, 263-4, see also

driving tours child seats 32 driving distances 5, 41, 80, 111, 152 hire 262 insurance 263 maps 253 spare parts 262

carbon offset schemes 258 Carnival 16, 83 castles, see also fortresses, palaces

Agia Roumeli 56 Imeri Gramvousa 70 Paleohora 63

caves Agia Sofia 72 Dikteon Cave 11, 162, 11 Ideon Cave 93 Kronios Cave 161

Matala Caves 140 Melidoni Cave 91 279 Milatos Cave 160 Sfendoni Cave 91 Skotino 144

cell phones 13, 255 Cemetery of Armeni 93-4 Centre for Mediterranean

Architecture 42 Chapel of the Metamorfosis

Sotiros 53 chestnut festival 72 children, travel with 31-3

accommodation 33 food 32 Hania 31, 43 Iraklio 31 Lasithi 31 Rethymno 31 safety 32 water parks 43, 144-5

Christianity 209, 223, see also Orthodox Church

churches & basilicas Agios Kyriakos 61 Agios Markos Basilica 115 Agios Minas Cathedral 117 Basilica of Aghia Sophia 100 Basilica of Agia Varvara 72 Chapel of the Metamorfosis

Sotiros 53 Church of Agios Georgios 65 Church of Agios Ioannis (Aradena)

59 Church of Agios Ioannis

(Argyroupoli) 88 Church of Agios Ioannis

(Gerakari) 95 Church of Agios Nikolaos (Hania)

43 Church of Agios Nikolaos (Mouri)

72 Church of Agios Pavlos 138 Church of Agios Titos (Gortyna)

135-6, 208 Church of Agios Titos (Iraklio) 115 Church of Agios Yiorgos 101 Church of Episkopi 91 Church of Our Lady 140 Church of Panagia Kera 157 Church of San Rocco 43 Church of San Salvatore 42 Church of St Paraskevi 88 Church of the Panagia

(Meronas) 95 Church of the Panagia (Meskla) 53 Church of the Panagia (Thronos) 95 Church of the Panayia 127-8 Panagia church (Agia Roumeli) 56 Saint Maria of Egypt 54

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churches & basilicas continued 280 St Mary’s Church 88

Timios Stavros 172 churches, visiting 202 cinemas 120, 121, 155, see also film

outdoor 65, 86, 120 City Walls, Iraklio 115 clan vendettas 53, 220 climate 12, 251, see also individual

regions climate change 258 climbing, see mountaineering, rock

climbing coach tours 153 coffee 241, 245 coffee houses 225 consulates 252 costs 12, see also money

accommodation 175, 178 courses

cooking 76, 245-6 yoga 99

crafts, see handicrafts credit cards 253-4 Cretan diet 238, 243-4 Cretan Historical & Folk Museum 130 Cretan House Folklore Museum 42 Cretan identity 220 Cretan people 220-5 Cretan School 233-4 Cretaquarium 143-4 culture

Cretan identity 220 customs & traditions 202, 222, 244 gender roles 224-5 gun culture 203, 220, 221 lifestyle 221-3 Minoan 226-9 multiculturalism 223 rural 222

currency 12, 253 customs & traditions 202, 222, 244 customs regulations 250 cycling & mountain biking 24-5, 260

bike hire 25, 260 Georgioupoli 74 Hania 46 Lasithi Plateau 161 Rethymno 83 tours 25, 83

D Daly, Ross 132 Damaskinos, Michael 117, 214, 234


Damnoni Beach 97 dance 231-2, 236 dangers, see emergencies, safe

travel road hazards 220, 263

debt crisis 202, 219 deep water soloing 26 ‘Devil’s Triangle’ 91-2, 203 Dikteon Cave 11, 162, 11 Diktynna 68 disabilities, travellers with 255-6 discount cards 250 diving & snorkelling 29-30

Agia Pelagia 127 Agios Nikolaos 153 Bali 102 dive operators 29-30 Elounda 159 Hania 46 Hora Sfakion 58 Paleohora 63 Panormo 100-1 Plakias 96 Rethymno 81

dolphin watching 63, 247 domatia (pensions) 176, see also

individual locations Dorian sites, see archaeological sites Dorians 207-8 drinks 240-1, see also wine

beer 96, 241 coffee & tea 241, 245 drink driving 13 spirits 240-1 water 252

driving, see car travel driving distances 5, 41, 80, 111, 152 driving licences 259, 262 driving tours

Amari Valley 95, 95 Hania 57, 57 Iraklio Wine Country 134, 134 mountain meander 172, 172

drosoulites (ghosts) 59, 216 drug laws 253 duty-free allowances 250 DVDs 253

E E4 walking trail 22, 108, 23 eagles 248 Easter 16 ecocottages 64 economy 202, 218, 219, 221 ecotourism 218 El Greco 114, 212, 234

Museum of El Greco 127 Elafonisi 8, 73, 106, 8

electricity 251 Eleftherios Venizelos Residence &

Museum 43 Eleftherna 90 Elos 72 Elounda 158-9 embassies 252 emergencies 13

language 268 environmental issues 203

climate change 258 tourism 203

Episkopi 91 etiquette 202, 221

churches & monasteries 202 Etz Hayyim Synagogue 42 European Health Insurance Card

(EHIC) 252 Evans, Sir Arthur 124, 126, 128,

144, 227 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 13

F Falasarna 71-2, 106 family life 221-2 farm tours 89 fast food 243 ferry travel 259-60, 261, 260

south coast 9, 260 taxi boats 260 to/from Crete 259-60, 261, 262

festivals & events 16-17, see also individual locations

arts 17, 117, 153, 165, 171 Assumption Day 17 Battle of Crete Anniversary 17, 47 Carnival 16, 83 chestnut festival 72 Christmas 17 Easter 16 Epiphany 16 food 76, 241, 243 Hania 47 Independence Day 16 Iraklio Summer Festival 117 Kornaria Festival 165 Kyrvia Festival 171 Lato Cultural Festival 153 Marine Week 153 May Day 16-17 Moni Arkadiou Anniversary 17 music 17, 83, 92, 117 name days 224 Navy Week 17 New Year 16 Ohi Day 17 pottery festival 133

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Renaissance Festival 17, 83 wine festival 243 Yakinthia Festival 92

film 202, 236-7, see also cinemas Zorba the Greek 52, 202, 235, 236

Firkas Fortress 41, 42 fishing

Agios Nikolas 153 Rethymno 83

Fodele 127-8 Folk Museum (Agios Nikolaos) 153 Folk Museum of Arhanes 130 Folk Museum of Palekastro 167 Folklore Museum (Agios Georgios)

162 Folklore Museum (Gavalohori) 76 Folklore Museum (Sitia) 165 food 15, see also individual locations

books 238, 240, 244 children, for 32 cooking courses 76, 245-6 Cretan diet 238, 243-4 customs 244-5 dining out 241-3, 245 festivals 76, 241, 243 horta (wild greens) 239, 243-4 internet resources 239 language 266-7 markets 49, 121 olive oil 239 seasonal 241, 243 sweet treats 86, 119, 243 vegetarians & vegans 244

fortresses, see also castles, palaces Firkas Fortress 41, 42 Frangokastello 59, 104 Ierapetra 171 Koules Fortress 115 Rethymno 80 Sitia 163 Spinalonga Island 160, 10

Fourfouras 95 Fourni 130 Fournou-Korifi 174 Frangokastello 59-60, 104 free camping 177 frescoes, Minoan 228 fuel stations 262

G Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi Island) 173 Gavalohori 76 Gavdopoula 66 Gavdos 66-7 gay travellers 251 geography 247 Georgioupoli 27, 73-4 Gerakari 95

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Gialiskari Beach 65 golf 27, 145 gorges

Agia Irini Gorge 24, 56 Agiofarango Gorge 24, 142 Anydri Gorge 65 Aradena Gorge 21, 27 Ha Gorge 27 Hohlakies Gorge 24 Imbros Gorge 24, 55, 108, 108 Klados Gorge 56 Kotsifou Gorge 94 Kourtaliotiko Gorge 94 Rouvas Gorge 24, 133 Samaria Gorge 8, 53-4, 54, 8 Sarakinas Gorge 172 Theriso Gorge 50 Topolia Gorge 72 Trypiti Gorge 56 Zakros Gorge (Valley of the Dead)

24, 108, 168 Gortyna 104, 135-7, 105, 208 Gournes 143-4 Gournia 162-3 Gramvousa Peninsula 70-1 Great Arsenal (Hania) 42 Greek alphabet 266 Greek War of Independence 213 Gulf of Hania 47 gun culture 203, 220, 221

H Ha Gorge 27 handicrafts

knives 49 lacework 76 leather boots 49, 157 musical instruments 87 weaving 50

Hania 7, 41-51, 44-5, 7 accommodation 178-80 activities 43, 46-7 drinking & entertainment 48-9 festivals & events 47 food 47-8 history 41 internet access 50 medical services 50 shopping 49-50 sights 41-3 tourist information 50 tours 47 travel to/from 51 travel within 51

Hania region 34, 38-76, 40 accommodation 38, 178-85 children, for 31, 43 climate 38

driving tour 57, 57 food 38 281 getting around 39 highlights 40 internet resources 39 itinerary 39 planning 38-9 road distances 41 travel seasons 38

health 251-2 Cretan diet 238, 243-4 insurance 252

herbal products 88 Hersonisos 27, 144-5 hiking & hiking trails 21-4, 108, see

also walking tours Agia Irini Gorge 24, 56 Agiofarango Gorge 24, 142 Anydri Gorge 65 Aradena Gorge 27 E4 walking trail 22, 108, 23 Ha Gorge 27 Hania 43, 46 Hohlakies Gorge 24 Imbros Gorge 24, 55, 108, 108 Iraklio 117 Kapetaniana 143 Kourtaliotiko Gorge 94 Mt Gingilos 24 Mt Psiloritis 93, 108 Paleohora–Sougia 63 Plakias 96 Rethymno 81, 83 Rouvas Gorge 24, 133 safety 24 Samaria Gorge 8, 53-4, 54, 8 Trypiti Gorge 56 Valley of the Dead 24, 108

hippies 60, 61, 140 Matala Hippie Reunion Festival

140 Historical & Folk Art Museum 81 Historical Museum & Archives

(Hania) 42 Historical Museum of Crete 114-15 historical sites, see archaeological

sites, Minoan sites history 204-19, see also individual

locations Arab rule 209-10 Battle of Crete 215-16 books 53, 215, 218 Byzantine rule 209, 210 Christianity 209, 223 debt crisis 202, 219 Dorian rule 207-8 EU membership 218 Greek culture 207-8 Greek War of Independence 213

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history continued 282 Minoan civilisation 205-6, 226-9

modern Crete 216-19 Mycenaean civilisation 206-7 Ottoman rule 212-14 politics 217-18 prehistory 205 Roman rule 208-9 Venetian rule 210-12 WWII 214-16

hitching 264 Hohlakies Gorge 24 holidays 254, see also festivals &

events Hora Sfakion 26, 56, 58 horse riding 21, 27

Avdou 27 Georgioupoli 27 Hersonisos 145 Pitsidia 27, 141

horta (wild greens) 239, 243-4 hospitality 222, 244 hostels 177, see also individual

locations hotels 176, see also individual

locations Houdetsi 132 Hrysi Island 173 human sacrifice 90, 130 human trafficking 219

I icon painting 68, 212, 214, 233-4 Ideon Cave 93 Ierapetra 169-71, 173, 170 Ierapetra Archaeological

Collection 170 Imbros 55 Imbros Gorge 24, 55, 108, 108 Imeri Gramvousa 70-1 immigration 218-19, 223 Independence Day 16 Innahorion villages 72 Inner Sfakia 58 insurance 252

cars & motorcycles 263 health 252 travel 252

International Student Identity Card

250

internet access 252-3, see also individual locations

internet resources, see also individual regions

accommodation 176


books 220 food & wine 239 Knossos video tour 226 Minoan sites 228 music 230 outdoor activities 26 planning 13

Iraklio 111-23, 116-17 accommodation 191 activities 117 drinking & entertainment 119-21 festivals & events 117 food 117-19 history 111 internet access 121 medical services 121, 122 shopping 121 sights 111, 114-15, 117 tourist information 121-2 travel to/from 122-3 travel within 123

Iraklio Archaeological Museum 7, 111, 114, 7

Iraklio region 35, 109-47, 112-13 accommodation 109, 191-5 children, for 31 climate 109 driving tour 134, 134 food 109 getting around 110 highlights 112-13 internet resources 110 itinerary 110 planning 109-10 road distances 111 travel seasons 109

Iraklio Wine Country 131-2, 134, 240, 134

Iron Gates 54 Island, The 10, 158, 160 islands 14

Agii Theodoroi 47 Agria 70 Elafonisi 8, 73, 8 Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi Island) 173 Gavdopoula 66 Gavdos 66-7 Imeri Gramvousa 70-1 Lazaretto 47 Paximandia 140 Spinalonga 10, 158, 160, 10

Itanos 167 itineraries 18-20, 18, 19, 20, see also

individual regions

J jet skis 29, 101 jewellery, Minoan 227-8

K kafeneio (coffee house) 225 Kalamafka 172 Kalamaki 142 Kalathas 52 Kalyves 75 Kalyviani 70 Kamares pottery 227 Kambos 72 Kamilari 141-2 Kapetaniana 143 Katharo Plateau 157 Kato Zakros 168 kayaking 30, 46, 75 Kazantzakis, Nikos 114, 234, 235, 236

Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 132-3 tomb 115, 117

Kefali 72 Kissamos-Kastelli 68-9 Klados Gorge 56 knives 49 Knossos 6, 123-7, 128, 226, 6 Kolokytha Peninsula 160 Kolymbari 67 komboloï (worry beads) 224 Komitades 55 Kommos 106, 141 Kotsifou Gorge 94 Koules Fortress 115 Kouremenos 30, 167 Kournas 74-5 Kourtaliotiko Gorge 94 Koutouloufari 144 Koutsomatados 72 Krasí 147 Kreipe, General Heinrich 92, 129, 216 kri-kri goat 54, 88, 248 Kritsa 157 Kritsotopoula (Rhodanthe) 156 Kronios Cave 161 Kroustas 157

L Labyrinth 132 lacework 76 Lake Kournas 74-5 Lake Votomos 133 Lakki 53 lammergeier (bearded vulture) 248 language 12, 265-9

food 266-7 Greek alphabet 266 Linear B script 207, 229

Lasithi Plateau 11, 161-2 Lasithi region 35, 148-74, 150-1

accommodation 148, 195-9 children, for 31 climate 148

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driving tour 172, 172 food 148 getting around 149 highlights 150-1 internet resources 149 itinerary 149 planning 148-9 road distances 152 travel seasons 148

Lato 157-8 Laws of Gortyna 136, 208 Lazaretto 47 leather boots 49, 157 Lebena 143 Lefka Ori (White Mountains) 34,

53, 15 legal matters 253 Leigh Fermor, Patrick 216 Lendas 142-3 leper colony, see Spinalonga Island lesbian travellers 251 lifestyle 221-3 Ligres 98 Linear B script 207, 229 Lissos 61 literature 203, 233, 234-6, see also

books Livada Lake 133 loggerhead sea turtles 73, 140, 248 loggias

Iraklio 115 Rethymno 81

Loutraki 52 Loutro 60, 108, 108 Lychnostatis Museum 144 lyra (lyre) 92, 132, 230

M Makrygialos 173 Malia 104, 145-7, 104, 205 maps 253 Marathi 52 Margarites 90-1 marine life 30

dolphin-watching 63, 247 whale-watching 247

Maritime Museum of Crete 42 markets 49, 121 Marmara Beach 59 Maroulas 88 Matala 106, 140-1, 106 Matala Caves 140 Matala Hippie Reunion Festival 140 measures 253 medical services 251-2, see also

individual locations Melidoni Cave 91 meltemi (summer wind) 29, 30, 251

Meronas 95 mesimeri (siesta) 202 Meskla 53 Messara Plain 135 metric system 253 mezedhes (appetisers) 242 Milatos 160 Milatos Cave 160 Milia 64, 72 Military Museum 55 military service 225 Minoan civilisation 205-6, 226-9

art & culture 226-9 books 227 bull imagery 228 collapse of 206, 207

Minoan sites Agia Triada 138-9 Ancient Kydonia 43 Ancient Minoa 52 Ancient Olous 160 Anemospilia 130 Arhanes 129 Armeni 93-4 Fourni 130 Fournou-Korifi 174 Gournia 162-3 internet resources 228 Itanos 167 Kamilari 141-2 Kommos 141 Mohlos 163 Monastiraki 95 Mt Yiouhtas Peak Sanctuary 130 Palace of Knossos 6, 123-7, 128, 6 Palace of Malia 104, 145-7, 104,

205 Petras 165 Phaestos 137-8 Pyrgos 172, 174 Roussolakkos 167 Sklavokambos 128-9 Tylisos 128 Vasiliki 172 Vathypetro Villa 130 Zakros Palace 169

Minos, King 129, 136, 227 Minotaur legend 129 mitata (shepherds’ huts) 93 mobile phones 13, 255 Mohlos 163 monasteries

Aptera 75 etiquette 202 Monastiri Tou Karolou 43 Moni Agias Triadas 52 Moni Agios Nikolaos 133 Moni Arkadiou 89-90, 104

Moni Gonias 68 Moni Gouvernetou 52 283 Moni Hrysoskalitissas 72-3 Moni Ioannou Erimiti 52 Moni Odigitrias 142 Moni Preveli 10, 97, 10 Moni Toplou 104, 166, 105, 213 Moni Vrondisi 133 Panagia Kardiotissa 147 Spili 94

Monastiraki 95 Monastiri Tou Karolou 43 money 12, 13, 253-4, see also costs

discount cards 250 exchange 13, 254

moneychangers 254 Moni Agias Triadas 52 Moni Agios Nikolaos 133 Moni Arkadiou 89-90, 104 Moni Asomaton 95 Moni Gonias 68 Moni Gouvernetou 52 Moni Hrysoskalitissas 72-3 Moni Ioannou Erimiti 52 Moni Odigitrias 142 Moni Preveli 10, 97, 10 Moni Toplou 104, 166, 105, 213 Moni Vrondisi 133 monk seals 248 Morosini Fountain 115 mosques

Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan 41 Neratzes Mosque 81 Rethymno 80 Veli Pasha Mosque 81

motorboat hire 101 motorcycle hire 262, 263 motorcycle travel 259, 262-3 Mt Gingilos 24 Mt Psiloritis 93, 108 Mt Yiouhtas 129 Mt Yiouhtas Peak Sanctuary 130 mountain biking see cycling &

mountain biking mountain refuges 25, 177, 181 mountain villages 14, 72 mountaineering 25

Hania 43, 46 mountains

driving tour 172, 172 Lefka Ori (White Mountains) 34,

53, 15 Mt Gingilos 24 Mt Psiloritis 93, 108 Mt Yiouhtas 129, 130

Mouri 72 multiculturalism 223 Municipal Art Gallery (Hania) 42

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Municipal Art Gallery (Iraklio) 115 284 museums 15, see also art galleries

Archaeological Museum (Agios

Nikolaos) 152

Archaeological Museum (Hania)

41-2

Archaeological Museum

(Rethymno) 80-1

Archaeological Museum (Sitia) 165 Archaeological Museum of Arhanes

129-30 Archaeological Museum of

Kissamos 69 Battle of Crete Museum 117 Byzantine & Post Byzantine

Collection of Hania 42 Cretan Historical & Folk Museum 130 Cretan House Folklore Museum 42 Eleftherios Venizelos Residence &

Museum 43 Folk Museum (Agios Nikolaos) 153 Folk Museum of Arhanes 130 Folk Museum of Palekastro 167 Folklore Museum (Agios

Georgios) 162 Folklore Museum (Gavalohori) 76 Folklore Museum (Sitia) 165 Historical & Folk Art Museum 81 Historical Museum & Archives of

Hania 42 Historical Museum of Crete 114-15 Ierapetra Archaeological

Collection 170 Iraklio Archaeological Museum 7,

111, 114, 7 Lychnostatis Museum 144 Maritime Museum of Crete 42 Military Museum 55 Moni Arkadiou 90 Moni Hrysoskalitissas 73 Moni Preveli 97 Moni Toplou 166 Museum of Cretan Ethnology 140 Museum of El Greco 127 Museum of Grylios 92 Museum of National Resistance 50 Museum of Rural History & Folks

Crafts 128 Museum of the Acritans 62 Museum of Traditional Musical

Instruments 132 Museum of Village Life 88 Museum of Wooden Sculptures 91 Myrtos Museum 174 Natural History Museum of Crete

115


Naval Museum 42 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 132-3 Nikos Xylouris Home 92 Paleontological Museum 81 Vatsiana 66

music 230-2 internet resources 230 Iraklio Summer Festival 17, 117 Museum of Traditional Musical

Instruments 132 musical instruments 87, 92, 132,

230 musical workshops 132 musicians 92, 231 Renaissance Festival 17, 83 Yakinthia Festival 92

Mycenaean civilisation 206-7 Myrthios 98 Myrtia 132-3 Myrtos 173-4

N names & name days 224 Napoleon’s House 171 national identity cards 258 national park, see Samaria Gorge Natural History Museum of Crete

115 Naval Museum 42 necropolises

Agia Triada 139 Argyroupoli 88 Armeni 93-4 Eleftherna 90 Fourni 130

Neorio tou Moro art gallery 42 Neratzes Mosque 81 New Democracy party 217 newspapers 253 Nida Plateau 93 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 132-3 Nikos Xylouris Home 92 Nithavris 95 nudist beaches 66, 71, 99, 140,

143, 202

O observatory 93 olive oil 239 Olous 160 Omalos 53 opening hours 250 organic farming 64, 89 Orthi Ammos 59 Orthi Petra 90 Orthodox Church 209, 220, 223-4,

see also Christianity Ottaman rule of Crete 212-14

outdoor activities, see activities ouzo 241

P package holidays 176, 259 painting, see also arts

Byzantine art 233 contemporary art 234 Cretan School 233-4 El Greco 114, 127, 212, 234 icon painting 68, 212, 214, 233-4

palaces, see also castles, fortresses Agia Triada 138-9 Gournia 162-3 Knossos 6, 123-7, 128, 226, 6 Malia 104, 145-7, 104, 205 Phaestos 137-8 Zakros 169

Palekastro 167 Paleohora 61-5, 62 Paleontological Museum 81 Palm Beach, see Preveli Beach Panagia Kardiotissa 147 Panormo 100-1 Papandreou, George 217 Pappadiana 72 parasailing 28, 29 PASOK party 217 passports 253, 258, see also visas Paximandia Island 140 Pendlebury, John 219 pensions 176, see also individual

locations Perama 91 Perivolia 72 Petras 165 Phaestos 137-8 Phaestos Disk 114, 138, 229 pharmacies 251-2 phonecards 255 photography 254 Pitsidia 27, 141 Plaka 160 Plakias 94, 96-7 plane tree, 2000-year-old (Krasi)

147 planning 12-17, see also individual

regions budgeting 12 calendar of events 16-17 children 31-3 internet resources 13 itineraries 18-20, 19, 20 public holidays 254 regions 34-5 special interests 14-15 top experiences 6-11 travel seasons 12, 21-2

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plants 248 book 248 wildflowers 54, 133, 248

Platanias 48 Platanos 72 police 13, 255 politics 217-18 Polyrizos-Koraka 97 Polyrrinia 69-70 population 202, 220-5 Porto Guora 81 postal services 253, 254 pottery

festival 133 Margarites 90-1 Minoan 226-7 Thrapsano 133

Preveli Beach 10, 98, 106, 10 Psyhro 162 public holidays 254 Pyrgos 172, 174

R raki 240-1 rappelling 46, 56 religion 203, 223-4

Minoan 228-9 Orthodox Church 209, 220, 223-4

restaurants 241-2, 245, see also individual locations

Rethymno 9, 80-7, 82-3, 9 accommodation 185-7 activities 81, 83 drinking & entertainment 85-6 festivals & events 83 food 83-5 history 80 internet access 87 medical services 87 shopping 86-7 sights 80-1 tourist information 87 tours 83 travel to/from 87 travel within 87

Rethymno region 35, 77-102, 79 accommodation 77, 185-90 children, for 31 climate 77 driving tour 95, 95 food 77 getting around 78 highlights 79 internet resources 78 itinerary 78 planning 77-8 road distances 80 travel seasons 77

retsina 240 Rimondi Fountain 81 ringo rides 28, 29 roadside shrines 222 road travel

hazards 220, 263 rules 13, 263-4 signs 262

rock climbing 26 Agiofarango Gorge 142 Hania 46 Kapetaniana 143 Klados Gorge 56

Rodakino 97 Rodopou Peninsula 67 Roman sites, see archaeological sites rooms, renting 176 Roussolakkos 167 Rouvas Gorge 24, 133 rural life 222

S safe travel 254-5

children 32 hiking 24 hitching 264 road rules 13, 263-4 water sports 29 women travellers 256

Saint Maria of Egypt 54 St John the Hermit 52 St Paul 60, 209, 223 St Titus 209, 210 Samaria 54 Samaria Gorge 8, 53-4, 54, 8 Sarakinas Gorge 172 scenic drives, see driving tours Schengen Visa 256 Schliemann, Heinrich 124 scuba diving, see diving &

snorkelling sculpture, Minoan 227-8 senior travellers 250 sexual health 252 Sfakia 53-5 Sfendoni Cave 91 Sfinari 72 shepherds’ huts 93 shopping, see also individual

locations language 268 opening hours 250

Sitia 163-6, 164 Sivas 141 Skinakas Observatory 93 Sklavokambos 128-9 Skotino Cave 144 smoking 220, 256

snails 76, 239, 242 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling 285 Souda 97 Souda Bay NATO base 216 Souda Bay War Cemetery 215 Sougia 60-1, 63 Spili 94 Spinalonga Island 10, 158, 160, 10 spirits 240-1 spring water, bottled 133 Stavros 52 student travellers 250 studios 176, see also individual

locations swimming 28, see also beaches

Hania 46-7

IND

EX P

-T

T taxi boats 260 taxis 264 tea 241 telephone services 13, 255 temples, see archaeological sites Tersanas 52 Theriso 50 Theriso Gorge 50 Thrapsano 133 Thronos 95 time 255 Timios Stavros 172 tipping 254 toilets 255 Topolia 72 Topolia Gorge 72 tourism 202, 203, 218, 222-3 tourist information 255, see also

individual locations tourist police 255 tours, see also boat trips, driving

tours, individual locations caves 91 coach tours 153 cycling & mountain biking 25, 83 farm tours 89 walking tours 81

train travel 259, 263 travel

language 269 to/from Crete 258-60 within Crete 260-4

travel insurance 252 travel seasons 12, 21-2, see also

individual regions travellers cheques 254 trekking, see hiking & hiking trails Triopetra 98, 106 Tripiti 66 Trypiti Gorge 56

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turkish baths 47, 48, 128, 180, 186 286 Tylisos 128-9

Tzermiado 161

IND

EX T-Z

V vacations 254 vaccinations 251 Vaï 11, 166-7, 11 Valley of the Dead 24, 108, 168 Vamos 75-6 Vardinogiannis bridge 59 Vasiliki 172 Vathypetro Villa 130 Vatsiana 66 vegetarian & vegan travellers 244 Veli Pasha Mosque 81 Venetian harbours

Hania 41 Rethymno 81

Venetian lighthouse (Hania) 41 Venetian rule of Crete 210-12 Venizelos, Eleftherios 50, 214

Eleftherios Venizelos Residence &

Museum 43

visas 13, 256, see also passports volunteering 257 Vori 140 Voulgaro 72 Vrises 95 Vryses 76

W walking tours 81, see also hiking &

hiking trails water, drinking 252 water parks 43, 144-5 waterskiing 101 watersports 28-30, see also

individual activities safety 29

weather 12, 19-20, 251 weaving 50 websites, see internet resources weights 253 whale-watching 247 White Mountains 34, 53, 15 wild camping 177 wild greens 239, 243-4 wild orchids 248 wildflowers 54, 133, 248 wildlife, see animals, birds, plants windmills 161 winds, summer 29, 30, 251 windsurfing 30

Almyrida 75 Kouremenos 30, 167 Paleohora 63

wine 240, 244 festival 243 Iraklio Wine Country 131-2, 134,

240, 134 wineries 131-2, 133

women in Crete 224-5 women travellers 256 work 257 worry beads 224 WWII 214-16

Battle of Crete 215-16 Souda Bay War Cemetery 215 war memorials 215

X Xerokambos 169 Xylouris, Nikos 92, 231

Y yachting 30, 260 yoga retreats 99 youth discount cards 250

Z Zakros 168-9 Zakros Gorge 24, 108, 168 Zakros Palace 169 Zaros 110, 133, 135 Zeus 136, 140

Dikteon Cave 11, 162, 11 Ideon Cave 93

Zoniana 91 Zorba the Greek 52, 202, 235,

236


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287

These symbols will help you find the listings you want:

1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking

r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment

2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping

C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/

Transport

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool p Parking v Vegetarian Selection n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly

Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights

Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight

Activities, Courses & Tours

Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity/Course/Tour

Sleeping Sleeping Camping

Eating Eating

Drinking Drinking Cafe

Entertainment Entertainment

Shopping Shopping

Information Post Office Tourist Information

Transport Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Other Transport

g Bus f Ferry m Metro b Subway t London Tube j Tram d Train

Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass

Walking Tour Walking TourDetour Path

Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Population Capital (National) Capital(State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village

Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

o Our author’s recommendation

F No payment required

S A green orsustainable option

Look out for these icons:

Geographic Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Hydrography River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Glacier

Areas Beach/Desert Cemetery(Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight(Building)

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OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Andrea Schulte-Peevers Coordinating Author; Plan Your Trip; Rethymno; Iraklio; Accommodation; Crete Today; The Cretan People; Music & Dance; Fine Arts, Literature & Film; Cretan Cuisine; Survival Guide Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to around 70 countries, but she’ll forever cherish the memory of first setting foot in Crete some 15 years ago and being instantly charmed by its people, the rich tapestry of their traditions and their long, proud history. Andrea

lived in Bochum (Germany) and London before moving to Los Angeles, getting a degree from UCLA and embarking on a career in travel writing. She has written or contributed to some 60 Lonely Planet books, including the Greece guide. Her current home is Berlin.

Read more about Andrea at: lonelyplanet.com/members/andreaschulte-peevers

Chris Deliso Hania, Accommodation, History, Minoan Art & Culture Chris was drawing maps of the Aegean by the age of five, and 20 years later he ended up in Greece while labouring away on an MPhil in Byzantine Studies at Oxford. Ever since studying Modern Greek in Thessaloniki in 1998, he has traveled frequently in Greece, including a year in Crete – more or less his spiritual home. For this book, Chris enjoyed healthy amounts of fresh fish, traditional music and sunburn on the

island’s remote beaches. His personal website is www.chrisdeliso.com. Read more about Chris at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/chrisdeliso Des Hannigan Hiking & Outdoor Activities, Water Sports, Travel with Children, Lasithi, Accom-modation, Wildlife & Birdwatching Des has been in and out of Crete for the past 20 years. Early visits were spent wandering the more remote mountains and south coast but were soon extended to the entire island. He has worked off and on in Greece for many years and has covered the Cycladic, Ionian and Saronic Islands for Lonely Planet’s Greece guide. He lives in the far west of sunny Corn-

wall, England – an almost-Crete, except for the troublesome Atlantic Ocean. Read more about Des at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/deshannigan

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-5th edition – March 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 232 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,

mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the

written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent

and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such

as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

31-authors-cre5.indd 288 12/10/2011 14:35

http:www.chrisdeliso.com

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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