Self-Enclosed Seamsand finishes

Definition• A seam is made when two or more layers of fabric are stitched

together.• A finish prevents raveling and fraying.• Self-Enclosed Seam is a seam in which the raw edge is not

exposed but instead is enclosed within the seam.• Disadvantage: may be bulky.• Advantage: clean, finished professional look; will hold up better

during the laundry process.

Types of Self-Enclosed Seams and finishes

• Flat-Felled Seam• Double-Stitched Seam• Turned and Stitched Seam• ZigZag Finish• Machine Overedge• French Seam

Flat-Felled Seam• Used in sportswear

and children’s clothing because it is a tough and durable seam.• Shows on the right

side of garment.• Examples:• Jeans• Casual slacks• Shirts and blouses

Double-Stitched Seam• Used on knit fabrics

because of the strength and to prevent knits from curling.• Two rows of stitching.• Straight stitch• Zigzag• Overedge

• Examples:• Jeans and pants

Turned and Stitched Seam• Used on light to

medium fabric; seam may be visible.• Examples:• Blouses• Unlined jackets

ZigZag Finish• Used in medium to

heavy fabrics which may ravel.• Can be used on any

seam to enclose the raw edge.

Machine Overedge• Used for medium to

heavy fabric.• Helps prevent fraying

and raveling as well as hide the raw edges.• Produces strong yet

stretchy seams on knit fabrics.

French Seam• Used for sheer and

light weight fabrics, as well as medium weight fabrics.• Examples:• Blouses• Slacks

French Seam directionsStep One

• After cutting fabric from pattern….• Place fabric wrong

sides together and pin

Step Two• Using a straight

stitch, sew a ¼” seam on the notched edge.• Backstitch at the

beginning and the end.

Step Three• Trim seam to 1/8”

width.• Why trim?• Less bulky• Fibers do not poke

through seam

Step Four• Fold right sides

together.• Press seam to edge.

Step Five• Sew 3/8” from seam

edge, backstitch at the beginning and the end.• This will enclose the

raw edge from the first seam sewn in step two.

Step Six• Press to one side.• Admire your

professional French seam!• Staple French seam

sample to your worksheet for a grade.

Now it’s time for you to sew a French seam• Row 1 and Table 1 will need the following supplies:• Seam Sample worksheet, with your 1st seam sample completed before

fall break.• Fabric and pattern – found on ironing board in back of classroom.• Tote tray• Bobbin case• Shears• Thread and test your machine• Pin fabric to pattern and cut• Wait for Mrs. Hansen to demonstrate the French Seam

• Row 2 and Table 2 will have a demonstration first.• After demonstration, collect the supplies above • Thread and test your machine• Start on your French seam

• Once French Seam is completed…• Staple to Seam Samples worksheet with 1st seam sample and place on

Mrs. Moeller’s desk.

Videos• Turned and Stitched Seam• http://youtu.be/3jpUrBatj3I

• ZigZag• http://youtu.be/T7Jy5kC1pro

• Flat-Felled Seam• http://youtu.be/OfJ3XI8z_tg

Summary• What is a seam?• What is a French Seam?• Why would you use a French Seam?• Some students will be starting the French seam on their pillow

cases….