Selecting the Correct Emulsifier

SELECTING THE CORRECT EMULSIFIER

General Purpose: basic, simplified, easy to use primary emulsifiers for creams/lotions & cleansing products. LIPO Product INCI name Origin M.P.

C Form Approx.

HLB Applications & Benefits Use %

Lipo GMS-450 Veg. #06-002

Glyceryl Stearate

V

56 –64C

White/ off –white f, p or b.

3.6 A nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier and a stabilizer for oil-in-water systems. It is stable and active over a broad pH range and is compatible with anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants. Used as a thickening agent, as an emulsifier it needs neutralization.

Avg: 1-3% High: 4–7%

Lipo GMS-470 #06-007

Glyceryl Stearate SE

A

54 –62C

White/ off –white f or b.

5.8 Self- emulsifying, thru the incorporation of a small amount of potassium stearate. It is an anionic oil-in-water emulsifier and opacifier for neutral and alkaline pH systems. It is compatible with anionic and nonionic surfactants.

Avg: 1-3% High: 4–7%

Lipo Stearic Acid triple pressed #16-005

Stearic Acid

V

54 –57C

White waxy flakes

__ Basic emulsifier which needs to be neutralized with TEA, NaOh. Used in alkaline, neutral and acid pH systems. Compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants. Can be combined with Lipocols, Liposorbs or Lipopegs to extend its effective emulsification range. Used in all forms of skin & hair care products.

Avg: 3-5% High: 7-10%

Lipomulse Luxe #06-011

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-40 Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20

V/S 53C Ivory Pastilles

9.0 A special blend of non-ionic surfactants designed to simplify emulsion formulating. Forms liquid crystal structures that serve to greatly increase long term emulsion stability as well as stability at elevated temperatures. Imparts an elegant, long lasting soft skin feel that is pleasant to the touch. Forms stable emulsions over a broad pH range from pH 3-12.

Avg: 3-5% High: 6-8%

Lipomulse 165 #06-010

Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate

V/S

50 –60C

White/ off –white f or p or bead.

11.0 Universal ‘pre-blend’ emulsifier for all oil-in-water emulsions. Used in alkaline, neutral and acid pH systems. It is compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants and has exceptional electrolyte tolerance (Antiperspirant products). Can be combined with Liposorbs or Lipopegs to extend its effective emulsification range. Stabilizes hydrogen peroxide formulations (ex: hair lighteners) & acid pH products (glycolic acid, salicylic acid, DHA).

Avg: 1-4% High: 5-7 %

Lipo GMO #06-037

Glyceryl Oleate V N.a. Yellow to amber opaque liquid

2.8 Naturally derived from canola oil. A multi-functional oil-soluble emulsifier, solubilizer and dispersant for creams and lotions. Imparts lubricity to emulsions and is an effective bath oil emollient and spreading agent.

Avg: 1-4% High: 5%

Lipo GML #06-036

Glyceryl Cocoate

V N.a. Cream colored solid

3.0 Naturally derived from coconut fatty acids. It is a multi-functional oil-soluble emulsifier, emollient and skin conditioning agent used in creams and lotions, foaming surfactant cleansing products and bath products.

Avg: 1-3% High: 4%

Lipo PGO-3 #06-038

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

V N.a. Amber liquid

6.2 Naturally derived non-ionic emulsifier, emollient and skin conditioning agent. Used as a primary emulsifier in water-in-oil creams and lotions. Also used in oil-in-water emulsions in conjunction with a high HLB emulsifier. Also used in anhydrous systems including bath oils and foot scrubs.

Avg: 1-3% High: 4%

aaislinnc

Tempo

SELECTING THE CORRECT EMULSIFIER Pg. 2 of 9

Emulsifying Waxes: ‘Self-emulsifying’ emulsifier blends that are non-ionic, oil-in-water emulsifiers, acid & alkaline pH stable & cationic compatible.

LIPO Product INCI name Origin M.P. C

Form Approx. HLB

Applications & Benefits Use %

Lipowax D #12-002

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20

V/S

46 –55C

White/ off –white waxy s or f.

15.5

In some instances will work as a replacement for Promulgen D. Can be used with co-emulsifiers. Used in skin care creams & lotions, hair color products, cream rinses, peroxide creams and depilatories.

Avg: 1-3% High: 5-7%

Lipowax G #12-005

Stearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20

V/S

54 – 61C

White/ off -white waxy s or f.

15.5

Can be used with co-emulsifiers. Used in skin care creams & lotions, hair color products, cream rinses, peroxide creams and depilatories.

Avg: 1-3% High: 5-7%

Lipowax NI #12-010

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth-20

V/S 42 – 52C

White/ off white waxy flakes

15.7

Can be used with co-emulsifiers. Used in skin care creams & lotions, hair color products, cream rinses, peroxide creams and depilatories.

Avg: 1-3% High: 5-7%

Lipowax P #12-023 #12-024

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60

V/S

50 –54C

Off -white waxy s, f or p.

14.9

Disperses easily in warm water to form elegant opaque emulsions. Can be used with co-emulsifiers. Used in hair and skin care creams and lotions, body washes. It is especially suited for acidic pH preparations and also for hair relaxers having high pH.

Avg: 2-3% High: 5-7%

Lipowax PA #12-026

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60

V/S

50 –54C

Off - white pastilles

14.9

Direct replacement for Polawax NF. Can be used with co-emulsifiers. Used in hair and skin care creams and lotions, body washes. It is especially suited for acid-mantle preparations and for hair relaxers having high pH.

Avg: 2-3% High: 5-7%

Lipowax R-2 #12-042

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 (and) Oleth-10 (and) PEG-75 Lanolin (and) PEG-150 Stearate (and) Steareth-20

A/V/S

N.a. Yellow waxy flakes or pastilles

N.a. Complete emulsifier system that functions without the need for additional emulsifiers or thickeners. Tolerates both high alkaline & low acidic systems, for depilatories, hair relaxers and straighteners.

Avg: 2-3% High: 5-7%

Continued…. Pg. 3 of 9


Polyoxyethylene Glycol Esters: Nonionic emulsifiers having wide pH tolerance, compatible with anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants and have moderate electrolyte tolerance. Can be used as a primary emulsifier, co-emulsifier or solubilizer. LIPO Product INCI name Origin M.P.

C Form Approx.


Lipopeg 4-S #04-005

PEG-8 Stearate A/S

--- White to off-white solid

11.2 A versatile, general purpose oil-in-water emulsifier that produces rich, thick creams and lotions. Can be used with Liposorbs or Lipocols for additional emulsification. Used in skin and hair care treatment preparations.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipopeg 10-S #04-006

PEG-20 Stearate A/S

N.a. White/ off -white solid

15.2 An oil-in-water emulsifier for creams and lotions. Increases viscosity and stability in cream and lotions. Stable with medicaments in ointment type preparations. Useful as a slip agent in stick type products.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipopeg 39-S #04-010 #04-011

PEG-40 Stearate V/S

V/S

N.a. Ivory waxy solid or flakes

16.9 An oil-in-water emulsifier. When used with Lipo GMS or Liposorb TS it produces fine-textured emulsions. Used in skin and hair care products and for antiperspirants.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipopeg 100-S #04-015 #04-017

PEG-100 Stearate V/S

V/S

N.a. White/ off –white s or f.

18.8 An oil-in-water emulsifier used for difficult cosmetic, toiletry and topical pharmaceutical emulsion systems. Optimum results are obtained when used with Lipo GMS or Liposorb TS to produce fine white emulsions. It is also used in antiperspirants, pharmaceutical vehicles and acidic pH skin and hair care products.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipopeg 6000 DS #04-020

PEG-150 Distearate

V/S

53.5- 57.5C

White/ off -white flakes

18.4 An oil-in-water emulsifier for creams and lotions, especially for systems containing high concentrations of electrolytes. An effective thickener for transparent shampoos and personal washing preparations.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipopeg 2-DL #04-035

PEG-4 Dilaurate V/S

--- Colorlessto yellow liquid

6.0 A water-in-oil emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer used in creams, lotions, hair dressings, bath and body oils.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipopeg 4-DL #04-036

PEG-8 Dilaurate V/S

--- Colorless to yellow liquid

10.0 An oil-in-water emulsifier used in skin and hair care creams and lotions. Also a spreading and dispersing agent for bath and body oils.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipopeg 4-DS #04-045

PEG-8 Distearate A/S

34 –37C

Cream, soft wax solid

8.0 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Also a good thickener for use in cosmetic formulations. Use in hair care products, deodorant and antiperspirant sticks, creams, lotions, and cream shampoos as thickener or viscosity modifier.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Continued….

Pg. 4 of 9


Polyoxyethylene Glycol Esters continued:

Lipo DGLS #05-005

PEG-2 Laurate SE A/S

--- Yellow to amber liquid

N.a. An oil-in-water emulsifier for neutral or slightly alkaline systems. Is water dispersible because it contains a small amount of potassium laurate. Used as a fluid emulsifier in skin and hair care lotions. Also as a dispersing agent for bath oils.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Fatty Alcohols & Polyoxyethylene Ethers: multifunctional, non-ionic, acid & alkaline pH stable and have moderate electrolyte tolerance. Compatible with anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants.

LIPO Product INCI name Origin M.P. C

Form Approx. HLB

Applications & Benefits Use %

Lipocol L-4 #03-002

Laureth-4 V/S

--- Colorlessto slightly yellow liquid

9.7 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Primarily used as an auxiliary emulsifier and stabilizer. When used with Lipocol L-23, this co-emulsifier pair is effective in systems that require a high HLB.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol L-12 #03-004

Laureth-12 V/S

N.a. White waxy solid

14.5 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Used as an effective emulsifier for depilatories, cleansing creams and lotions. Also as a solubilizer for shampoos, bubble baths, liquid detergents and cleansing products.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol L-23 #03-005 #03-008 (22%)

Laureth-23 V/S


16.9 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Is a prime component of emulsifier systems and highly effective when used with Lipocol L-4. Used in antiperspirants, depilatories and cleansing creams and lotions. Also used as a cleansing agent and solubilizer in acne scrubs, medicated shampoos, scalp treatment products and bubble baths. An efficient perfume solubilizer for shampoo and liquid soaps.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol C-2 #03-010

Ceteth-2 V/S


5.3 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Primarily used as a co-emulsifier. When used with Lipocol C-20 it produces fine-textured oil-in-water creams and lotions. Also used in depilatories, cold waves, bleaches and dyes. Compatible with quaternary ammonium compounds.

Avg: 0.5-2% High: 3-5%

Continued….

Pg. 5 of 9


Fatty Alcohols & Polyoxyethylene Ethers continued:

Lipocol C-20 #03-012

Ceteth-20 V/S

N.a. White to off-white waxy solid

15.7 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Stable emulsions are formed by using it in combination with Lipocol C-2 and Lipocol C or Lipocol S, resulting in fine textured creams and lotions for skin and hair care.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol S-2 #03-015

Steareth-2 V/S

42-46C

Off white solid

4.9 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Primarily used as an auxiliary emulsifier in combo with Lipocol S-20 to produce oil-in-water creams and lotions. Also used in cuticle removers, depilatories, cold waves, bleaches and dyes.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol S-20 #03-017

Steareth-20 V/S


15.3 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Stable emulsions are formed when balanced with Lipocol S-2 and Lipocol S or Lipocol C. Used in preparing fine-textured creams and lotions for skin and hair care.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol S-21 #03-018

Steareth-21 V/S


15.5 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Stable emulsions are formed when balanced with Lipocol S-2 and Lipocol S or Lipocol C. Used in preparing fine-textured creams and lotions for skin and hair care.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol O-2 #03-020 ‘MTO’

Oleth-2 V/S

--- Clear liquid

4.9 A water-in-oil emulsifier. When used with Lipocol O-20, it produces fine-textured oil-in-water creams and lotions. Also is used as a non-tacky spreading agent for bath and body oils and coupler for alcohol/oil systems.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol O-10 #03-022

Oleth-10 V/S

--- turbid liquid, to soft solid

12.4 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Is an effective co-emulsifier. Also used as a solubilizer/clarifying agent for lipophilic materials and fragrance oils in aqueous systems, high use % forms ringing gels.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–8%

Lipocol O-20 #03-023

Oleth-20 V/S

N.a. Off-white waxy solid

15.3 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Is an effective co-emulsifier. Also used as a solubilizer/clarifying agent for polar lipophilic materials and fragrance oils in aqueous systems. Used in skin care products, hair dressings and grooms, after shaves.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–8%

Lipocol SC-20 #03-027

Ceteareth-20 V/S


15.5 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Produces stable emulsions when used with Lipocol-SC-4. Used in bubble baths, shampoos and personal washing liquids.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%



Fatty Alcohols & Polyoxyethylene Ethers continued:

Lipocol TD-12 #03-030

Trideceth-12 S

--- White soft semi- solid

14.6 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Also used as a solubilizer for fragrances, and polar ingredients in bubble baths, shampoos and personal cleansing products.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol HCO-40 #03-035

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

V/S

--- Slightly yellow viscous, soft pasty solid

15.0 An oil-in-water emulsifier, pigment dispersant and wetting agent. Also used as a solubilizer/clarifying agent for fragrances and lipophilic materials in aqueous systems.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%



V/S N.a. Soft off-white paste


Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4-5%



V/S

N.a. Off white solid


Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

All Purpose Non-ionic emulsifiers: Nonionic emulsifiers having wide pH tolerance, compatible with anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants and have moderate electrolyte tolerance. Can be used as a primary emulsifier, co-emulsifier or solubilizer. LIPO Product INCI name Origin M.P.

C Form Approx.


Liposorb P #01-005

Sorbitan Palmitate V

N.a. Cream to tan beads

6.7 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Primarily used in oil-in-water emulsions in combination with Liposorb P-20. The pair of emulsifiers produces fine-textured lotions and creams in skin and hair care, make-up bases, shaving products and mild cleansing preparations.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Continued….

Pg. 7 of 9


All Purpose Non-ionic emulsifiers continued:

Liposorb S #01-010

Sorbitan Stearate

V

N.a. Off - white to tan pastilles

4.7 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Primarily used in oil-in-water emulsions in combination with Liposorb S-20. The pair of emulsifiers produces fine-textured lotions and creams in skin and hair care, make-up bases, shaving products and mild cleansing preps.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Liposorb TS #01-015

Sorbitan Tristearate V

N.a. Tan flakes or beads

2.1 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Primarily used in oil-in-water emulsions in combination with Liposorb S-20 or Lipopeg 39-S. The pair of emulsifiers produces fine-textured lotions characterized by a rich non-watery rubout desirable in skin and hair care products & make-up bases.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Liposorb O #01-020

Sorbitan Oleate A

--- Yellow/amber liquid

4.3 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Primarily used in oil-in-water emulsions in combination with Liposorb O-20. The pair of emulsifiers produces fine-textured lotions in skin and hair care products & make-up bases. Also is a spreading aid for bath oils and adds water-dispersibility to anhydrous systems.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Liposorb SQO #01-025

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

V

--- Yellow/amber liquid

3.7 A water-in-oil emulsifier. Primarily used in oil-in-water emulsions in combination with Liposorb O-20. The pair of emulsifiers produces fine-textured lotions in skin and hair care products & make-up bases. Also is a spreading aid for bath oils and adds water-dispersibility to anhydrous systems.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Liposorb L-20 #02-002

Polysorbate 20

V/S

--- Yellow to light amber liquid

16.7 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Primarily used in combination with Liposorb L or Lipo GMS. The pair of emulsifiers produces medium, fine-textured lotions and creams in skin and hair care products. Also acts as a spreading aid for bath oils, adds water-dispersibility to anhydrous systems and solubilizer for oils and fragrances.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Liposorb S-20 #02-010 Liposorb S-20K #02-011

Polysorbate 60 Polysorbate 60 (Kosher)

V/S

V/S

--- Pale yellow liquid or semi-solid

14.9 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Primarily used in combination with Liposorb S or Lipo GMS-450. The pair of emulsifiers produces medium, fine-textured lotions and creams in skin and hair care products. Also acts as a spreading aid for bath oils, adds water-dispersibility to anhydrous systems and solubilizer for oils and fragrances.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Liposorb O-20 #02-020 Liposorb O-20K #02-021

Polysorbate 80 Polysorbate 80 (Kosher)

V/S

V/S

--- Yellow to light Amber liquid

15.0 An oil-in-water emulsifier. Primarily used in combination with Liposorb O or Lipo GMS-450. The pair of emulsifiers produces medium, fine-textured lotions and creams in skin and hair care products. Also acts as a spreading aid for bath oils, adds water-dispersibility to anhydrous systems and solubilizer for oils and fragrances.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4-5%

Liposorb L-80 #02-060

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate

V/S

N.a. Yellow liquid

19.4 Used in shampoos, conditioners, body washes, foaming facial cleansers and liquid soaps where mildness is an important factor. Contributes to wetting properties and effective when used with Lipopeg® 6000 DS to increase viscosity and body in surfactant formulations. Compatible with anionic, non-ionic and cationic surfactants. Also a solubilizer for oils and fragrances in aftershave, skin toners, surfactant systems and gels.

Avg: 0.5- 2% High: 4%



Emulsion Stabilizers: products used in conjunction with primary emulsifiers to stabilize, increase viscosity and improve the texture of the emulsion system. LIPO Product INCI name Origin M.P.

C Form Approx.


Liponate 2-DH #07-075

PEG-4 Diheptanoate

V/S N.a. Liquid --- An emollient ester which has some secondary emulsifier properties. Use applications are for creams/lotions, bath products and hair care.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4-6%

Lipo EGMS Veg. #05--018

Glycol Stearate V

55 –61C

White/ off -white f or p.

2.0

Primarily a monoester, nonionic emulsion stabilizer for both water-in-oil & oil-in-water systems. Compatible with nonionic, anionic and cationic surfactants. Used for viscosity building, opacifying, pearlizing in creams/lotions, shampoos, conditioners and in both liquid & bar soaps.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4-5%

Lipo EGDS Veg. #05-017

Glycol Distearate

V

60 –65C

White/ off -white f or p.

1.0 Primarily a diester, nonionic emulsion stabilizer for both water-in-oil & oil-in-water systems. Compatible with nonionic, anionic and cationic surfactants. Used for viscosity building, opacifying, slightly greater pearlizing effect in creams/lotions, shampoos, conditioners and in both liquid & bar soaps.

Avg: 0.5-3% High: 4-5%

Polytex 10M #70-003

Glycol Stearate (and) Stearamide AMP

A/S

56.5 – 60C

Cream white f or p.

---

Compatible with anionic, cationic & nonionics. Used as an emulsion stabilizer, a thickener, opacifier, for distinct pearl formation and imparts a ‘creamy’ feel to emulsions in hair & skin care products.

Avg: 1-3% High: 5-7%

Lipocol C #14-000

Cetyl Alcohol V

N.a. White flakes

--- Compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants. Natural derived and used in emulsions where it acts as a viscosity builder and emulsion stabilizer. Also used in hair care & antiperspirants.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–20%

Lipocol S #14-007

Stearyl Alcohol V

55-60C

White flakes

--- Compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants. Natural derived and used in emulsions where it acts as a viscosity builder and emulsion stabilizer. Also used in hair care & antiperspirants. Antifoam agent.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–20%

Lipocol S- Deo #14-008 ‘MTO’

Stearyl Alcohol V

56-60C

White to off-white flakes

--- Deodorized version of above. Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–20%



Emulsion Stabilizers continued: Lipocol L #14-010

Lauryl Alcohol V

--- Colorlessliquid

--- Compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants. It is a natural derived liquid conditioner, spreading agent and coupling agent that is hair dyes, bleaches, shampoos and conditioners.

Avg: 0.5 –3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol SC #14-021

Cetearyl Alcohol V

48-55C

White flakes

--- Compatible with anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants. Natural derived and used in emulsions where it acts as a viscosity builder and emulsion stabilizer. Also used in cream rinses and antiperspirants.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol CS-604 #14-022

Cetearyl Alcohol V

48-55C

White flakes

--- A blend of cetyl/stearyl alcohols in a 60/40 ratio. Pre-blend is easier to work with in emulsions. Same performance properties and natural derived.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

Lipocol CS-50 #14-025

Cetearyl Alcohol V

48-54C

White to off-white f or p.

--- In emulsions it is used as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer, viscosity control agent and viscosity builder. Also used as a coupling agent and foam stabilizer. Natural derived and used in antiperspirant sticks and in cream rinse applications.

Avg: 0.5–3% High: 4–5%

KEY: ‘Origin’: V = vegetable S = Synthetic A = Animal N.a. = not available. ‘Form’: f = flake s = solid p = pastille b = bead. Updated August, 2012

Documents

Selecting the Correct Emulsifier