Seasons in Africa Magazine 2010

GREEN LIVINGIMPRESSIVE ECO

CREDENTIALS

VOLUNTOURISMSOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE &

FABULOUSLY FUN

LOUIS VUITTONON LOCATION IN

THE AFRICAN BUSH

REBIRTHOF THE

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ContentsISSUE 3

S E A S O N S I N A F R I C A M A G A Z I N E

68

34 20 30

5 EDITOR’S LETTER Message from Patrick Siebel

6 SEASONS UPFRONT A collection of snippets

16 EvERy jOURNEy bEGINS IN AFRICA Luxury goods brand chooses Madikwe Hills

20 A SPORTING CHANCE The sporting celebrations continue at Cape Town Hollow

24 FLy FISHING As good as it gets on Desroches Island

29 ENvIRONMENTAL RESPONSIbILITy The environment comes first

30 REbIRTH OF THE TIMbAvATI WHITE LIONS

Rare sightings at Kings Camp

34 SCENIC CyCLING

Casterbridge hosts the MTN Panorama Tour

38 HAND IN HAND

Strong links with Djuma’s neighboring communities

41 PRIvATE SAFARI

Meet bush-mad Graham Cooke

42 ExCLUSIvE PREDATOR

Private photographic expeditions with

Marius Coetzee and Greg du Toit

44 OUR PLAyGROUND The wonders of wild life are an everyday occurrence at Leopard Hills

48 THE vALLEy OF ADvENTURE Adventures that start on your doorstep from Hippo Hollow and Perry’s bridge Hollow hotels

54 LOWvELD HIGH’S Touring the Panorama Route from the comfort of air-conditioned vehicles

56 vOLUNTOURISM Enhance your holiday haven with Elephant Whispers volunteer Program

59 THE LEGEND OF THE GREAT bAObAb baobab legend lives on at Kuka Restaurant

60 SIx OF THE bEST Knysna Hollow is the ideal base to explore the surrounding outdoor splendor

63 CELEbRATIONS OF LOvE Magnolia Restaurant – a venue of choice

64 GREEN LIvING Hollow on the Square raises the bar on responsible tourism

67 SMART MOvES The Shangaan River Club is more than just a feast of traditional dancing

68 LIvING ON THE EDGE Livingstone’s Adventures offers an array of activities to suit every palate

72 SEASONS SENSATIONS A “long” story

16 24

3860 56

Te l : + 2 7 2 8 3 4 1 0 2 0 9 | i n f o @ ki w i n e t. co. z a | w w w. k i w i n e t. co. z a

IMAGE: DESROCHES ISLAND VILLA

www.seasonsinafrica.com | SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010 5

[ E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R ]

We are excited to bring you our third magazine edition which gets better and better each year. There’s

no doubt that the FIFA World Cup Soccer put our country firmly in the global spotlight this year. Armed with genuine hospitality, superb infrastructure and a land of exceptional beauty, South Africans stood up and showed the world what we’re made of. We believe that the positive effects on our economy, and on the tourism sector in particular, will be far reaching.

Africa is synonymous with adventure, and this edition showcases the abundant opportunities for high-adrenaline action. The lowveld town of Hazyview has become a haven for thrill seekers and nature lovers alike, from white water rafting on the Sabie River to hot-air ballooning and unforgettable African elephant interactions (page 48). Further north you can watch wildlife from a canoe on the mighty Zambezi (page 68), or try deep-sea fishing in the pristine waters of the Seychelles (page 24).

Luxury safaris continue to be one of Seasons in Africa’s strongest drawcards. So we were delighted when iconic brand Louis Vuitton chose Madikwe Hills as their location for a recent photoshoot. See all the glamour (page 16). Staying with lions, you can find out more about the protection of the white lion – a rare and culturally significant species which has made its home in the Timbavati Reserve. Kings Camp is renowned for the best sightings (page 30). And if you’re interested in voluntourism, read about the Elephant W hispers Volunteer Programme (page 56).

Of course our wildlife will only survive if there is sustainable co-existence between the reserves and the people on their boundaries. A successful collaboration between the Buffelshoek Trust and Djuma Game Reserve is yielding positive results in the communities of Manyeleti (page 38).

On the theme of sustainability, we’re proud to bring you an update on Mpumalanga’s first green hotel – The Casterbridge Hollow (page 6). And heading down to Cape Town, the Hollow on the Square’s Green Annexe boasts equally impressive eco credentials, and continues to look for ways to reduce its carbon footprint (page 64). And Knysna is becoming renowned as nature’s playground with its Garden Route splendour (page 60).

A few significant achievements stood us proud this year, in particular winning the Best Stand at the Tourism Indaba, Leopard Hills being voted as one of the Top 10 Lodges in Africa and Desroches Island’s top ten nomination (page 6).

Looking back, the year of the first African World Cup has been a remarkable one and its no surprise that South Africa is in demand.

We hope these pages will encourage you to explore more of this wonderful place we call home.

EDITOR Patrick Siebel

DESIGNER Nadine Conway | blue Hue Desings

PROJECT CO-ORDINATORS Tanya Cruse & Nadine Conway

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Tess Paterson, Anna Trapido, Ciska Kay, Anne Schauffer, Pj jacobs, Tanya Cruse

PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Nadine Conway

COVER IMAGE Marius Coetzee

PHOTOGRAPHY & ART Karin Schermbrucker, Marius Coetzee, Murray Anderson-Ogle, The Complete Fly Fisherman Magazine, Tony baskeyfield, vanessa & Michael Lewis, Morné Hamlyn, Patrick O’brien, Heinrich Rontgen, Marlise Du Toit, Nadine Conway, Monica Fourie, Tamina Siebel, Chris Cloete, African Imagery, Thompsons Africa, Knysna Tourism, Skyway Trails, Phezula Golf Estate, Monkeyland, Misty Mountain, Induna Adventures, Paul Karnstedt, Cathy Simpsons, Natasha Du Preez, Sally blackman, Afripics, Dr jack

PRINT Pro-Print

ADVERTISING [email protected]

CONTACT US Tel: +27 13 750 2358 Fax: +27 13 750 2364

E-mail: [email protected] www.seasonsinafrica.com

P O box 8034, White River 1240, Mpumalanga

© COPyRIGHT 2010 SEASONS IN AFRICA

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written permission of Seasons in Africa. All editorial information herein is, and remains the property of Seasons in Africa and/or its writers and/or photographers. Seasons in Africa, its pub-lishers, staff and contractors accept no liability for loss or damage in any form arising from information, submissions or opinions expressed in this publication. E&OE.

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w.seaso

nsinafrica.com

Managing Director – Seasons in Africa

The haven of luxury and tranquility on Desroches Island has been rewarded by Forbes, one of the world’s leading business platforms in the USA. Nominated as one of the ‘Top 10 Remote Hotels in the World’ describing Desroches as the ultimate luxury holiday location, with high-end, luxurious accommodation in a heavenly island setting of 14km of unspoilt beaches and lush, green forests.

Editors of the influential travel title The Sunday Times Travel Magazine have also recently named Desroches Island as one of the ‘100 Best Hotels In The World’ in their annual list, beating countless competitors from prominent international luxury brands. Inclusion on such a prominent lists is testimony to the outstanding level of excellence Desroches Island provides to each and every one of their guests.

Leopard Hills was selected as ‘One of the Top 10 Destinations’ in Africa, Middle East and Indian Ocean Islands by Conde Nast Traveler Magazine. What makes this award special is that the results were based on the readership vote of destinations they felt deserved the title.

Duncan and Louise Rodgers (General Managers at Leopard Hills) are proud of this achievement and dedicated the award to their phenomenal team of staff and to YOU their Guests who have made this possible.

6 SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010 | www.seasonsinafrica.com

It’s a significant first for Mpumalanga, and will be the green benchmark against which all others will be measured. The stylish new Casterbridge Hollow Hotel in White River is the first green hotel in Mpumalanga, and to mark the occasion of its opening, Mr JL Mahlangu, MEC for Economic Development, Environment and Tourism, was there to cut the ribbon, and applaud those involved for their deep commitment to green principles. Mr Mahlangu honoured the hotel as the newest development to support government initiatives to reduce dependence on coal-generated energy and promote the use of sustainable and green energy. He referred to this initiative as a clear sign of commitment to saving the environment, and a certain hope that the people of the province saw green energy as the future.

DESROCHES ISLAND TOP 10 REMOTE HOTELS IN THE WORLD

FIRST GREEN HOTEL IN MPUMALANGA

LEOPARD HILLS COMES OUT ON TOP

M A K I N G H E A D L I N E S

[ S E A S O N S U P F R O N T ]


Elephant Whispers is a unique project dedicated to securing the future of the African elephant, a goal achieved by an inspiring programme of interaction between elephant and humans. For those who experience this sensitive connection, it’s clear that the gentle, loyal elephants of this project effectively act as ambassadors for their own kind.

Each year, Elephant Whispers offers a day of their extraordinary elephant experience to a Rotary Club initiative, Camp Quality, an annual five-day camp for children affected by cancer. For the children, it’s a rare opportunity to connect and interact with these empathetic creatures, known to symbolise strength, courage, protection, loyalty and gentleness. Elephant Whispers ensures a truly fun time, and provides the environment in which the children can put aside their daily reality, and simply revel in the warmth and wonder of the elephant’s caring nature.

Archbishop Tutu is close to the cause championed by Camp Quality and caring organisations such as Elephant Whispers. This year, a warm letter was delivered to Elephant Whispers from the Archbishop, lauding their valuable work with the African Elephant, and their signature contribution to the lives of these children.

Some locations capture your heart long before you step ashore. Desroches Island is that sort of destination, as was discovered by a group of food enthusiasts who joined the cooking tour hosted by acclaimed master chef, Reuben Riffel.

Desroches is set at the heart of one of the best areas in the world for deep-sea fishing with an abundance of species such as wahoo, dorado, yellow fin, marlin, barracuda and dogtooth tuna; so it came as no surprise that the culinary demonstrations presented by Reuben were laden with a variety of fresh fish and seafood.

Along with a superlative island vacation, guests got to explore the Seychellois culinary delights and traditions and indulge in their love of food, while sharing some of Reuben’s secret tips and techniques. It was believed that the way to many an honest heart lay through the belly, but after visiting Desroches Island this aphorism has been reconsidered.

To enquire about our 2011 Food Lover’s Adventure contact Kelly on +27 13 737 6626 or [email protected]

REUbEN’S FOOD LOvER’S ADvENTURE TO DESROCHES ISLAND

WAvING TRUNKS FOR ROTARy

At Seasons in Africa, we are working hard to source materials and methodologies that promote our commitment to sustaining and protecting our environment. We’ve now taken our next major step, and you, our reader, is literally in touch with that move: as you turn each page, you’re witness to our commitment. Seasons in Africa Magazine is printed on Sappi’s locally produced Triple Green paper, based on three solid environmental pillars: the primary source of pulp is sugar cane fibre sourced from local suppliers; the bleaching process is elemental chlorine-free; and the wood fibre used in the production process is obtained from sustainable and internationally-certified afforestation. Research indicates that Triple Green is a world first.

NOT jUST PAPER


Sustainable practices are becoming more prevalent in our homes as we recycle, compost and constantly look for ways to conserve the water and energy that we use. Travelling doesn’t mean we have to leave these practices at home. Think of your hotel room as an extension of your home, so you make a positive impact no matter where you are.

You can make a difference by:– Opening the curtains in your room to take advantage of the natural light.– Close the windows and doors if the air/heating system is on. – Choose to reuse your towel and linen rather than having them changed daily.– Avoid leaving water running when brushing your teeth or washing/shaving your face.– Keeping your showers short saves water and energy.– Turn off all lights, heating/cooling and electronics when you leave your room.– Close the curtains during the day to help keep your room cool during summer.– Check that all taps are tightly shut off to avoid water loss from dripping taps.

Like a breath of fresh air, Magnolia Restaurant arrived on the White River restaurant scene more than a year ago. With a breezy interior and crisp seasonal menu to match, it became an instant favourite

with the local and visiting foodie crowd. This was con-firmed at the annual Night of the Thousands Stars, a glitzy cancer fundraising event and one of the high-lights on the Lowveld social calendar. With the evening themed Memories and Masks, Magnolia went to town with a glamorous Renaissance-inspired look and back to basic menu. Magnolia proudly walked away as the overall winner for the evening.

MAGNOLIA DAZZLES

MEMORAbLE ENGAGEMENTS

KINGS CAMP KITTIES

TRAvELLING GREEN

Everyone agrees that a wedding proposal should be once-in-a-lifetime occasion. And what could be more memorable than an elephant passing a basket to a prospective bridegroom who then gets down on one knee and offers up a ring to the object of his affections? The elephants involved in these epic African engagement ceremonies were all saved from planned culling operations by the Elephants for Africa Forever programme and their training has been run along lines of mutual human-animal respect and trust. Even the hardest of hearts would agree that popping the question on the banks of the Sabie River with an audience of attentive elephants is the ideal way to start a life of love together. They say an elephant never forgets and neither will you.

These adorable African Wild Cat kittens found a home at Kings Camp after being rejected by their mother who lives on a neighbouring reserve. Masai and Siroccoe spend their days roaming around the camp hunting for bugs and lizards and entertaining guests. They are curious, affectionate and

love to be petted. To avoid being stalked by larger predators, they get to go home with

their new parents Morné, Melissa and Tristan at night. Look out for these

adorable kittens next time you visit Kings Camp.



See the world through brand new eyes, from an entirely different perspective: on high, on horseback, at Horse Whispers in Hazyview, Mpumalanga. Here, beginners and the more experienced can thrill to the wonderful sensation of moving sure-footedly through the scenic valleys and woodland forests of the 2000 hectare Sandford Conservancy on guided outrides and safaris on well-trained horses. Horse Whispers has crafted a comprehensive range of outrides, with something to suit everybody, every mood and situation. From the rambling one- or two-hour rides, to those which include a dip in a

fresh mountain pool, a delectable picnic, the light of the full moon, or cool sundowners, it’s a gentle journey which is both tranquil in magnificent natural surroundings, while providing that special thrill which heightens the experience.

At Horse Whispers, you and your children are in professional hands, in a magnificently diverse environment, and together, you’ll warm to the rhythmic beat of the ride, to that unmistakable connection between man and horse. One which touches the soul.


According to recent poll, up to 85% of women are disappointed in the way they were proposed to – a casual “so how about it, babe?” simply doesn’t cut it anymore these days.

If you’re planning to pop the question, or simply want your better half to experience the ultimate in romantic gestures, you’d be hard pressed to find anything to top a helicopter ride and champagne brunch amongst the dramatic background of Mpumalanga’s Blyde River Canyon.

The Mpumalanga Helicopter Company collects guests from any lodge in the greater Kruger Park and Hazyview area and takes them on an exhilarating flight, swooping over mysterious gorges and lush valleys. On the way, you’ll hover over spectacular waterfalls, dense indigenous forests and breathtaking cliffs.

The helicopter then lands on a secluded mountaintop, where the breathtaking 360º view forms the perfect backdrop for that special once-in-a-lifetime moment. If this doesn’t impress her, nothing will!

Find out more, or design your own air safari, visit www.mhelicopter.com

LOvE IS IN THE AIR

THE COUNTRySIDE ON HORSEbACK



Our commitment to environmental conservation and sustainable travel was reflected in our exhibition stand at the Indaba Tourism Expo this year, focussing on our latest eco-friendly travel options. We were proud to receive a

Platinum Award for best Large Stand.

The stand was both beautiful and responsible to our earth, reflecting our undertaking and commitment to the environment, our guests and our communities. A reworked and recycled structure was the foundation for the stand which was then clad with bamboo wallpaper, one of the most eco-friendly and sustainable solutions available. Cork flooring was selected for its particularly eco-friendly manufacturing process and the timber used for table bases and seating was sourced from sustainably grown and managed forests. The creative art and display material was printed on canvas as it is abrasion resistant and

longer lived, does not require bleaching, and is much less prone to seam slippage. The green imagery was framed with wood from renewable resources. Our team was dressed in fabrics made from natural plant fibers that are durable, earth friendly and biodegradable using natural pigment dyes and water-based printing inks. Even the stationery was biodegradable and recycled with pens made from corn based plastic and recycled paper, notebooks made from recycled paper and electronic brochures replaced printed brochures. Adding to the earth-friendly experience, guests were treated to one of the greenest cups of coffee served in biodegradable cups, made from sugar cane waste fibres with sleeves made from recycled paper, printed with vegetable based inks.

As a leading tourism management company, we understand the finer points of hospitality and luxury and invite travellers to indulge in a lifestyle of luxury without compromising the environment.

SEASONS IN AFRICA MAKES PERFECT ECO-SENSE...

Words Tanya Cruse Photos Nadine Conway

EARTH FRIENDLY EXHIBITION makes a statement at INDAbA 2010


Indaba is Africa’s largest travel trade show and besides being a marketing drive to promote South Africa and the southern African region to the world, it brings together a dedicated following of local and international travel industry friends.

SEASONS IN AFRICA INDAbA COCKTAIL PARTy

OUT & AbOUT

1. Monica Fourie, Paula Moore & Helen Bolton. 2. Kayah Tshal, Karin Pieters &Lesley Miles. 3. Patrick & Tamina Siebel. 4. Amanda Lang , Elsia Grandcourt, Gregoire Beau and Marsha Parcou. 5. Janine Southwood, Akke Engelbertink, Karen Jones & Shamita Palit. 6. Clive Battell, Marielize Brotherton & Sue and Trevor Brotherton. 7. Shaun Scrooby, Diana Rubio, Xavier Verges & Liza Vickers. 8. Joseph Nourrice, David Germain, Heidi Hannig & Deon Freemantle. 9. Suzanne Bigelow & Stuart Brand. 10. Paula Moore, Koen van den Bosch, Peggie-Lou Arbizu & Wendy Pletinck. 11. Silvana Olivo, Zoe Carroll, Justine Pitt, Sue Saunders & Sarah Jensen.

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THE COCKTAIL PARTy WAS HELD AT THE GRACIOUS MANOR HOUSE IN DURbAN

WHO’S WHO



Blogging is a wonderful way of having a direct dialogue between our staff and guests. See what fascinating images, videos and tales are posted soon after they occur as you click away from anywhere in the world. It is also great way for you to read what our other guests have experienced and to keep communicating with us.

02/11/10: WILD DOGS ALMOST kILLING A LEOPARDI will probably never see anything this amazing in my life again. This was by far THE BEST sighting I have ever had...

It all started off so calm and peaceful with the Wild Dogs and the puppies feeding on what looked like a day old Kudu kill. Then, all of a sudden the Dogs just got up and ran. We tried to stay with them and we found them all standing under a Camel Thorn Tree. When we moved closer a female Leopard jumped out and made a run for it. The Dogs caught her and were biting and pulling on whatever piece of Leopard they could get hold of. My heart sank into my stomach. She eventually managed to escape and ran up a bigger tree. The Wild Dogs then left her and went back to the tree where they found her.

For the full story log onto: www.madikwehills.com/blog/index.php?itemid=306#more

29/06/10: MEET OUR FAMILY!!Desroches is home to over 20 Aldabra Tortoises. Many roam free all over the island and can been seen strolling along the tracks in the cooler afternoon hours. We also have a few in our breeding enclosure who love having their necks rubbed and bathing in the cool water bath shaded by old tall coconut palms.

But when you are at Desroches, a visit to the baby tortoise pen is definitely a must. To see how small they are when they begin their long life, is precious.

For the full story log onto: www.desroches-island.com/blog/index php?itemid=157#more

25/05/10: LION EATING HIPPOWe got there in perfect time for the gorgeous afternoon light and the lions moved down out of the woodland to lie on the dam wall, much to the hippo’s annoyance. The hippo cruised on over to investigate this new nuisance.

The lions showed no reaction just a few quizzical glances in the direction of the approaching hippo, until the water exploded and a large blob of aggression appeared to be heading up the bank in the lions direction, sending them scurrying over the edge and out of reach of this crazed pachyderm. Only to approach the lip of the bank with great caution, in case they were caught out by this water monster.

After one or two big scares for the pride they got the message that they were not welcome to enjoy the afternoon lazing at this particular body of water and decided to move off and begin their night of hunting.

For the full story log onto: www.djuma.com/blog/index.php?itemid=321#more

27/01/10: THE CIRCLE OF LIFE IS COMPLETE

As the dark clouds issued a deluge of rain down on the Lodge, lightening lit up the African sky, a shadow emerged from the bushes, silently it crept forward into the dim glow of the Lodge lights, and there she stood, the Hlaba Nkunzi Female Leopard, with the smallest bundle of wet dripping fur hanging from her mouth, a new born cub. She moved forward again,

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into the bright lights now, unfazed by her surroundings, she was on a mission, and knew exactly where she was going and wanted to be. The setting was surreal, another flash of lightening followed by a roll of thunder, natures drum beat announcing her arrival. She stood in the Reception area, pondering her next move for just a moment, droplets of water running off her silky coat onto the floor. The cub still hanging from her mouth, wet but uncomplaining, as though it could sense its mother had found a place to call home.

It doesn’t seem long ago at all that Hlaba Nkuzi’s mother, Makwela, walked into Camp with her dangling from her mouth, like mother like daughter, the cycle is complete.

We are not sure as to how many cubs she has at this stage as she has stashed them under the deck of the Gym, time will tell. We have to give this area a wide berth, now I have a justifiable excuse not to go to Gym, as we do not want to disturb her or the cubs.

Since we opened our doors nearly 13 years ago, Makwela has been bringing her various litters of cubs into Leopard Hills, with almost an expectation that they will be safe here, and we must in some way “baby” sit them while she was out hunting. As a cub herself, the Hlaba Nkunzi female spend many a day and night in and around the Lodge, it is a place she knows and loves well.

For the full story log onto: www.leopardhills.com/blog/index.php?itemid=318#more

01/05/10: kINGS CAMP IN THE DAILYMAIL UkGuests of ours witnessed a grand battle between buffalo’s and our three Timbavati Boys and added the story to the newspaper back home in the UK .

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1269507/The-extraordinary-moment-300-buffalo-tried-save-calf-lions.html

OUR STORY – Posted on our blog 13/10/09

One of the most spectacular sightings of this year happened this morning during drive. - The 3 Timbavati males vs. 300 buffalo.

This epic battle took place on drive this morning. Finding the words to describe the scene on its own is easier said than done.

After following the lions for 20 minute they unexpectedly strike at the heart of the buffalo herd. Not even the buffalo saw them coming. In less that 10-seconds they took down a yearling calf. They hit it so hard that they knocked it out. Still alive and unconscious the calf laid on its back. Then the expected happened, the herd returned to rescue the calf. A battle that lasted 15 minutes, it could have turned either way. But the determination of the lions was over powering. A huge effort was made and they were reluctant to let go of their prize.

For the full story log onto: www.kingscamp.com/blog/index.php?itemid=216#more

Too much of a good thing can be wonderful, that’s exactly why we’re offering you the adventure of a Big Five Safari holiday and the calm of sandy Seychelles beaches all packaged in a single holiday experience.

Treat yourself to the marvelous, multi-layered bush and beach holiday of a lifetime. Imagine a vacation that begins with 4 nights of bushveld bliss. Savour the thought of the relaxation that only 75 000 hectares of untamed Africa can offer. At Madikwe Hills Private Game Lodge, South Africa you can surrender yourself to the splendour of a valley teeming with game, a private plunge pool, glorious gourmet meals and thirst quenching cocktails. But why settle for one holiday when you can have two?

This exclusive package will see you whisked away from Madikwe for a further five days of sea-front indulgence on the pristine Desroches Island in the Seychelles. Each of the achingly luxurious villas and suites on offer is just a few steps from the lapping waves and sensual sands of the Indian Ocean. And for the grand finale a concluding night of private villa paradise at the mainland Hilton Seychelles Northolme Spa.

As the Brazilian novelist Paulo Coelho wrote “our time on this earth is sacred and we should celebrate every moment.”

With this ultimate bush and beach experience you can do just that at our incredible special all inclusive package from just R44 800 per person.

Included are return charter flights to Madikwe Hills from OR Tambo airport and return charter flights to Desroches Island from Mahé and road transfers. For more information contact Kelly on +27 13 737 6626 or e-mail [email protected]. Flights from Johannesburg to the Seychelles excluded.

14 SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010 14 SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010


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aFRIca

EVERY JOURNEY BEGINS IN

Luxury goods brand Louis Vuitton chose Madikwe Hills as the perfect location to shoot its uber-stylish 2010 Summer

catalogue, writes Tess Paterson


[ M A D I K W E H I L L S ]

aFRIca


It’s 3am, not yet light, and a production crew of 35 is buzzing around the lodge at Madikwe Hills, hands clad in white gloves. Four body guards keep a beady eye on crates of jewellery, ready-to-wear clothing and hand crafted luggage bearing the unmistakeable Lv monogram.

And with a natural blonde radiance, model Dree Hemingway, great grand-daughter of Ernest, sweeps onto set.

Doing things in style is nothing new for Louis vuitton. Today the brand is just as sought after for its classically edgy fashion, striking jewellery and stationery as it is for the iconic Keepall bag, designed in 1930. With its annual summer catalogue in mind, it’s no surprise that the firm chose the evocative bushveld of Madikwe Hills as a backdrop.

“We’d worked exceptionally successfully with Madikwe Hills before,” says Edward brachfeld of brachfeld Paris – the European production house which lists exclusive brands such as Dior, Cartier and Prada among its high profile clients. And describes the concept for the catalogue as a romantic

adventure, where a couple travels to the heart of Africa by private jet, steam train and safari. “The lodge has the right combination of stylish luxury, beauty and authenticity, and it matched the brand and what we were wanting to portray just perfectly,” explains Edward.

IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT THE FIRM CHOSE THE EvOCATIvE bUSHvELD OF MADIKWE HILLS


[ M A D I K W E H I L L S ]

Cape Town-based Steel Productions was responsible for the smooth running of the shoot – a five-day all-hours affair starring two lion cubs, private jets, and more covetable luggage than you can shake a stick at. This included professional luggage handler jerome, who shouldered the daunting responsibility of carting priceless vintage trunks – on loan from the vuitton museum in Paris – to various corners of the big-five reserve.

“The staff at Madikwe Hills and North West Parks were incredibly accommodating,” says Steel Productions’ André van Wyk. “The logistics on a shoot like this are just mind-blowing – whether it’s feeding an entire crew at 11pm, or transporting the right people and props to the right location at the right time. The fact that it’s a malaria-free area was a bonus – we didn’t want an entire crew hyped up on anti-malaria medication.”

Additional photographs were shot at a lodge near Wolmarans-stad, and on Rovos Rail. “The different locations meant transporting an enormous amount of props – an eight-ton truckload to be exact,” adds Andre. “We sourced old cameras, tents, vintage motorcycles and furniture – whatever was necessary to meet the creative brief.”

“It was a fantastic challenge, and we got very little sleep,” laughs Madikwe Hills assistant manager Willem du Toit. “We moved everything out of the lodge, and accommodated and catered for the entire crew. Part

of our job was to help find the best locations on the 75 000 hectare reserve, and we also assisted with the cubs which were brought in from the Pilanesburg.”

To make the most of the summer light, Willem and his staff were on the go at 2am, and by 8am the rest of the crew was up and ready for breakfast. “It was non-stop for five days, but it was so rewarding to see the final results. One of our rangers, Samson Gaopelo, appeared in some images, which we really enjoyed. It was a memorable experience, collaborating with such an easy-going yet professional team.”

See more of the images in-store at Louis vuitton, or visit www.louisvuitton.com

LEFT [bottom]: Lion cubs and private jets were among the props used. ABOVE: Madikwe Hills bushveld provides an evocative backdrop to the film crew.

THE LODGE HAS THE RIGHT COMBINATION OF LUXURY, BEAUTY AND AUTHENTICITY



From the all-night parties at the fan parks to the jaw-droppingly beautiful stadium, the Mother City rolled out the red carpet for

the FIFA 2010 World Cup. For the team at Cape Town Hollow, the sporting celebrations are far from over.

Words Tess Paterson | Photos karin Schermbrucker

A SportingCHANCE


“Viva Mzansi, viva!” bellow two ladies on the fan walk to the Greenpoint stadium. They’re identically clad in the South African flag, trussed up a bit like mummies and finished off with velvet top-hats and armbands. Except that they’re both American – sisters who’ve flown 20 hours to get to the beautiful game.

It’s June 10, the day millions of South Africans have dreamed of since Sepp Blatter plucked our country’s name from an envelope. The vuvuzelas – Cape Town’s new dawn chorus, start their blaring around five am. There’s a bruising cold front on its way, but for now the city is bathed in sunshine, pumped up and ready to party. Robben Island sits on a glistening sea, holding its breath. And on Greenmarket Square the trees are swathed in fabric like presents.

Eighteen months earlier, GM Chanté Barnett and her team at the Cape Town Hollow hotel planned their strategy for the game. “Right from the start our team knew they were in for extremely long hours and double shifts, and their commitment and energy was just contagious. We tackled Casual Fridays head-on, taking photos of our staff with their Bafana Bafana gear to create a permanent gallery. We welcomed our guests with their national flags, and themed our bar area for each and every match. The vibe was electric, it just happened naturally; there were at least 100 people crammed into the 45-seater bar during the games.”



“THEy DRESSED UP AND LEARNT HOW TO DANCE THE DISKI...”

Chanté adds that the hotel’s position – within walking distance of both the fan park and the stadium – is one of its greatest draw cards. “There were so many options for our guests, from the street parties in the city centre, to watching the matches on the big screen Tv right here. I took a group of Costa Rican guests to the fan park and it was an absolute carnival – full of colour and noise. They dressed up and learnt how to dance the diski – it was like Zorro with gumboots. Afterwards, the Honduran singer Polache gave us an unplugged performance at the hotel – unforgettable!”

Like many South Africans, Chanté believes that the effects of this world cup are far-reaching. “Much like the Rugby World Cup

in ’95, it’s a tool that unites people. I believe this event worked because of our people, our culture of embracing others and the hope that we offer. The spin-off is so much more than just being hosts. There has been substantial job creation, and it has put us top of mind as a world class sporting destination.”

As soccer supporters from around the globe make their way home, Cape Town Hollow has plenty planned to keep sports-lovers happy.


PREVIOUS PAGE: Cape Town Hollow joins in with the festivities of the 2010 World Cup.

ABOVE: Green Point Stadium, in the shadow of Table Mountain, comes alive with vuluzelas.

BELOW: Cape Town Hollow staffs commitment and energy was contagious as they celebrated the football fever.



Comfortably rough and rugged with high performance durability.

Explore the world


[ D E S R O C H E S I S L A N D ]

DESROCHES ISLAND... as good as it gets?

F I S H I N G


Think tropical island holiday paradise, white beaches, warm seas and year-round temperate climate – and invariably the Seychelles will spring to mind. For fly fishers, however, mention of the Seychelles does not conjure up the typical romantic vision that lures the general tourist, but rather its distinction as a highly rated flats and blue-water destination.

Words PJ Jacobs Flyfishing Photos The Complete Fly Fisherman Magazine



Originally “discovered” as a bonefish venue, the Seychelles’ outer islands are known as the place to target not only the elusive ghost of the flats, but also (sometimes even more coveted)

species like GTs, Indo-Pacific permit, triggerfish and milkfish. However, the outer islands are just that: a long way from civilisation and requiring a tedious ocean journey and/or accommodation on a live-aboard vessel. Alphonse and Desroches are the exceptions, being the only outer islands offering fly fishing and land-based accommodation packages. both can be accessed from Mahé by air.

DESROCHES ISLAND LODGE

We have seen our fair share of hotels and fishing lodges around the world, and most fall into two categories: those with reasonable accommodation and great fishing, and then those with great accommodation and reasonable fishing. Arriving at Desroches, I soon realised that this trip was going to turn the usual situation on its head – at least as far as the accommodation was concerned.

Suffice it to say it’ll be hard to beat wherever you go, fishing or not. Our villa had everything that

opens and shuts. Meals at the hotel were deserving of culinary accolades and the service was outstanding. We were simply delighted, and I can’t think of a better venue for two or three couples wanting to share

an island holiday with some (great) fishing thrown in. The hotel accommodation is reputed

to be of the same standard, so this seems a viable option if it’s only you and your partner.

THE FISHING

The fly fishing side of things is run by Untamed Angling, which employs guides from all

over the world. The multicultural staff compliment at Desroches along with managing couple Mark and Renee Leslie

ensure the service level is of a very high standard. While there is some flats fishing around Desroches itself, the focus is on the atolls of St joseph and Poivre, both roughly an hour away by boat. St jo’s (guide slang for

...THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS – GOOD FISHING AND A GREAT HOLIDAY IN TOTAL FAMILY HARMONY.



the atoll) provides a classic sight-fishing experience on hard-bottomed flats, with turtle grass and sand flats thrown in to keep it interesting. The bones were there in good numbers – enough to keep any bonefishing nut happy. To me, sight-fishing to bones as singles, pairs and in small groups is the ultimate as far as fishing for this species goes and at this venue I was not disappointed.

Having caught more than my fair share of bones on day one at St jo’s, I was keen to see what Poivre would deliver. Consisting of two small islands – North and South Poivre – with quite a large flats area that can be waded safely, Poivre is known as a permit destination, and within minutes of slowly wading a turtle grass flat, a huge tail sticking tantalisingly out of the water signalled that they were in attendance. Permit have a reputation for being difficult, and this, in part, is why they are one of the most coveted fly fishing species on the planet. I suffer from the same affliction and have thrown more flies than I care to remember at them – both the Atlantic and Indo-Pacific versions – unsuccessfully, I may add. So I was not too optimistic about getting one on fly. Nor was I to be proved wrong; notwithstanding seeing several tails in the distance, none ever came close enough for a good shot. Again, however, there were enough bones around to keep my reel in a constant state of agony.

Two days later, again at Poivre, we walked the reef in the hope of finding a GT, but they were conspicuous by their absence, probably due to the neaps that we were experiencing. The guides had told me that from time to time they do find GTs at both Poivre and St jo’s but, on this occasion, we didn’t see any and decided it was time to track down some permit. En-route to Permit City, I realised we were heading straight to the spot where my guide had picked them off like berries two days before, taking four fish in quick succession (didn’t someone mention to him it was supposed to be difficult?). Once there, we immediately started seeing permit, and I had a dozen or so reasonable shots at sizeable fish, and fluffed a further half that many. Total numbers seen left me in no doubt that this was indeed a productive permit destination. However, the day ended with my usual score when it comes to chasing permit and left me more determined than ever to (one day) catch a sizeable one on fly.

LEFT: Fly fishing is not limited to bonefish and permit – there is a host of species willing and keen on the fly.

RIGHT [top to bottom]: Catching a bonefish on fly will put a smile on anybody’s face. Living the good life is not only about fishing. CAR (catch-and-release) is part of a good fishing ethic and helps to ensure the continued health of the fishery.



fishingDesroches offers some of the most spectacular sport fishing in the world. Here, the Indian Ocean is like a marine reserve, un-spoiled and largely unexplored, ideal for luxury fishing holidays. With the massive and sheer drop-off right on our doorstep, it harbors some of the world’s most exciting game fishing. Species such as sailfish, wahoo, dorado, yellow fin and dogtooth tuna, various kingfish species (jack’s), jobfish, barracuda and snappers are all found here.

both recreational and specialist fishermen are increasingly attract-ed to the Seychelles fishing grounds to try their hand at luring these legendary species that have made this region famous.

Record breaking sailfish, wahoo, dogtooth and yellow fin tuna bear testament to this, and the

immense diversity of smaller game fish are a light tackle and fly fishing

anglers dream.

Desroches Island Lodge operates a strict catch-

and--release policy, but will occasionally

bring one or two home for the pot.

IN SUMMARy

bones and permit are there in good enough numbers to make this a viable fishery. Particularly encouraging was the number of sharks we saw on the flats. These apex predators are always an indication that a flat is healthy and will have lots of fish around. Luckily, none were big enough to be more than just a nuisance. With the right tide and conditions, the habitat will also support GTs, so take a 12-wt along, but don’t make this your destination if GTs are all you’re interested in.

However, do take your spouse. This is one venue where you can truly experience the best of both worlds – good fishing and a

great holiday in total family harmony. I can vouch for that.

Editor of The Complete Fly Fisherman magazine (www.completeflyfiserman.co.za), Pj jacobs is a

devoted salt and fresh water fly fisherman.

ABOVE: Guests at Desroches are spoilt with good fishing and a great holiday.



Desroches is located 230 kilometres southwest of Mahé, the Seychelles’ main island. It is 6.2 km

long and has a land area of only 3.24 km². Along its 15 km circumference is a beach of fine sand, framed by an elegant stretch of coconut trees. Sound like paradise? Well, yes and no. A stay on Desroches undoubtedly feels like heaven on earth but over the years the island Eden has become home to many alien plants, rodents and feral cats. In an attempt to restore and rehabilitate Île Desroches’ marine and terrestrial pristine perfection The Island Conservation Society was recently established. The main mission of this organisation is to propagate and plant indigenous trees. On a recent trip to the island, the Seasons in Africa team decided to intersperse their luxury lounging with socially responsible arboreal activities. In order to demonstrate the company’s commitment to ecologically sustainable travel the Seasons in Africa group bicycled to an area on the island that was once invaded by alien vegetation and each team member planted an indigenous tree. W hile the tree planting was more tiring that sitting on a sun lounger drinking cocktails, it was much more rewarding. The Seasons in Africa team returned to the hotel covered in mud but with a contentment that can only come from helping to ensure that the perfection of Desroches will be there for future generations to enjoy.

ABOVE: [left to right] Chesna Abrahams, Monica Fourie, Tanya Cruse, Liza Vickers, Philip Summerton & Lisa Thompson (ICS Conservation Officers), Nadine Conway, Kenneth Collins, Patrick Siebel, Adel Botes, Amanda Lang, Sarah Jensen, Marielize & Jack Brotherton, Tamina & Caspar Siebel and Zoe Carroll.

... A bEACH OF FINE SAND, FRAMED by AN ELEGANT STRETCH OF COCONUT TREES.

Words Anna Trapido Photos Michael Lewis

R E S P O N S I b I L I T yenvironmental


It’s one of the rarest sightings in the animal kingdom, and only occurs naturally in a single place on our planet: Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, bordering the legendary kruger National Park.

Words Anne Schauffer Photos Morné Hamlyn & Patrick O’Brien

WhItE

It’s one of the rarest sightings in the animal kingdom, and only occurs naturally in a single place on our planet: Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, bordering the legendary kruger National Park.

Words Anne Schauffer Photos Morné Hamlyn & Patrick O’Brien


[ k I N G S C A M P ]

[ K I N G S C A M P ]


In the heart of the exquisite Timbavati section of the Park, you’ll find Kings Camp Private Game Reserve, renowned as the finest destination to view these extraordinarily beautiful

white lions in the wild. A highlight in any game lover’s lifetime.

It was back in 1975, when it was discovered that two white lion cubs had been born into a pride of lion in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve. Discovered by Chris Mcbride, he went on to write a book two years later about these famous lions, “White Lions of the Timbavati”. At that stage, the pride’s territory covered most of the traversing area of what is today, the magnificent Kings Camp Private Game Reserve.

These unique white lions are not albinos, but rather the result of a recessive gene carried by normal tawny parents. This genetic mutation is the same as the “King Cheetah” which has been recorded in the wild.

Due to their conspicuous white colour, the survival rate is very low, and few cubs survive to adulthood. At best, the survival rate of tawny lion cubs to adulthood is only 20 percent, so a sighting of white lions is an unrivalled privilege.

In 2006, two white cubs were born in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, but unfortunately, neither was ever seen thereafter.

but in May 2009, two white cubs were first sighted at Kings Camp, and given the rarity of the event, have been causing a sensation ever since. The cubs are part of a pride consisting of two adult females and four cubs, two white, two tawny. The white cubs are still being seen today, as is another slightly younger white lion cub, born to another pride in the southern region of Timbavati.

THESE UNIqUE WHITE LIONS ARE NOT ALbINOS, bUT RATHER THE RESULT OF A RECESSIvE GENE CARRIED by NORMAL TAWNy PARENTS.

WHITE LION SIGHTINGS Timbavati Private Nature Reserve

1975 – 20101975 Two white cubs were born (male and female) in the Timbavati.

1976 One white female cub was born into the same pride as the one in 1975.

1985 An adult white female named Whitey, led a pride in the Timbavati and had many litters, all of which were tawny cubs.

1991 A female cub lived in the Timbavati until she was nine months old (Whitey was her grandmother).

1992 A young white male was reportedly seen for many years.

2006 Two white lions were born on Ingwelala but only seen once.

2006 Another two white lions were born further East on Tanda Tula but were only seen once.

2008 Four white lion cubs were born into the same pride but some disappeared and one was eaten by a male lion at six months old.

2009 Two white lion cubs were born in the beginning of May in the Timbavati.

2009 One white lion cub was born into the Giraffe farm pride in july which is seen occasionally.

2010 Frequent sightings of the two white lion cubs are still seen in the Timbavati.


[ K I N G S C A M P ]

In total over the last four years, at least 11 white lion cubs have been seen in the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, but only three have survived.

In Africa, white lions are regarded as more than just a scientific curiosity. Local communities and traditional leaders endow them with a spiritual and cultural significance. For Africans, nature has always been deferred to for spiritual signs, and the arrival of white lions fulfilled an ancient prophesy: these majestic creatures were considered messengers from God. For centuries now, Timbavati has been identified as a sacred site by the African kings, and the name of the place in the ancient Shangaan language means, ‘the place where the star lions came down from the heavens’. The Africans explain the mysterious white colour of the lions as ‘purity and enlightenment’ in spiritual terms. To them the white lions represent pure sunlight, beyond all colour, creed, gender or race: wholly symbolic of the South African dream.

The sheer beauty and stature of these white lions has become synonymous with the unique experience enjoyed in the Timbavati in Kings Camp Private Nature Reserve. For those who yearn to witness a rare wildlife not seen naturally anywhere else on this earth, there can be no finer base than Kings Camp in the iconic Timbavati region of Kruger National Park.

LEFT [above]: The Timbavati pride of lions with their two white lion cubs. LEFT & BELOW [left to right]: A magnificent sighting of the stark white lion cub with its striking eyes. Game walks at Kings Camp gets guests up close and personal with the African bush. The striking contrast between a tawny and white lion cub. Game drives at Kings Camp.

TIMbAvATI HAS bEEN IDENTIFIED AS A SACRED SITE...


CyclingSCENIC


[ C A S T E R b R I D G E H O L L O W ]

The MTN Panorama Tour attracted a record number of entries this year

– and it’s easy to see why.

Words Ciska kay

Photos karin Schermbrucker & Murray Anderson-Ogle

Getting up before the crack of dawn for a spot of brisk exercise, not one, but four days in a row, is not everybody’s cup of tea – even if it involves some of the most spectacular scenery in this country. but not even grey skies could

dampen the enthusiasm of entrants to the popular 2010 MTN Panorama Tour, now in its 5th year running.

As the name suggests, the Panorama is the Lowveld’s spectacular contribution to the South African cycling calendar. Each stage starts and ends at the Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre outside White River, and the route winds its way through dramatic hills and beautiful vistas. Touted as a “stage race for the everyday rider”, it is gaining in popularity and attracts riders from across the country.

[ C A S T E R b R I D G E H O L L O W ]

According to organiser Fiona Coward, there are many reasons why. “Although it is one of the toughest in the province, we concentrate on keeping it relaxed and informal. It’s a sociable event, with a huge amount of camaraderie about it,” she explains. This year’s race attracted about 250 teams of two across the full riding spectrum.

Riders set off early morning on April 24, with a vintage car from Casterbridge Motor Museum setting the pace – and adding a touch of glamour. While the cyclists were battling it out on the road, onlookers, supporters and family gathered along the route and at Casterbridge to watch the race progress. but this is one occasion where the family tags along happily, partly because of the carnival atmosphere at the centre.

Known as one of the Lowveld’s most stylish destinations, the Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre’s immaculate

gardens are the perfect counterfoil to the beehive of activity generated by the race. Shop and restaurant owners embrace the event, setting up stalls, providing

entertainment and generally getting into the swing of things.

CASTERbRIDGE HOLLOW RESEMbLES

THE SIMPLICITy OF ROMANTIC vILLAGES IN PROvENCE AND

TUSCANy

36 SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010 | www.seasonsinafrica.com36 SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010 | www.seasonsinafrica.com


And once each day’s riding was concluded, bone-weary riders regrouped at the barnyard Theatre, official home to the cyclists. Many a well-deserved drink was enjoyed in the venue’s tranquil courtyard as the day’s aches and pains, and thrills and spills were discussed.

Since the opening of Casterbridge Hollow, the centre’s boutique hotel, riders and their families had the convenience of simply walking over and flopping down in style. In keeping with the rest of the centre, Casterbridge Hollow resembles the simplicity of romantic villages in Provence and Tuscany.

Suited to holidaymakers, business travellers and families, the hotel offers unrivalled peace and quiet. With 30 rooms, including four family suites, conference facilities and some of the country’s must-see destinations right on its doorstep, the hotel is growing in popularity. Having some of the region’s top restaurants, a spectacular art gallery, glamorous shops and nightspots only a stone’s throw away, adds to the charm and convenience of this four star boutique hotel.

And once the tour was done and dusted, families had the opportunity to explore the splendour of Mpumalanga, where iconic attractions like the blyde River Canyon and the Kruger National Park are within easy meandering access. Rollicking good fun with an added dash of glam – the MTN Panorama Tour manages to get the mix just right.

Tel +27 (0)13 750 [email protected] www.casterbridge.co.za

Cnr of Hazyview Road (R40) & Numbi Road (R538), White River

• Over 35 Delectable Speciality Shops

• Cinema and Barnyard Theatre

• National Art Gallery

• Vintage Car Museum

• Restaurants and Coffee Shops

• 4 Star Casterbridge Hollow Hotel

[ D j U M A ]

FROM UNDER TREES AND WASHING LINES, TODDLERS WAVE AND SHOUT HELLO...

HAND IN


It’s the bright colours that grab your attention. A multi-coloured mountain of plastic containers lined up on a dusty stretch of road. We’re in the village of Dixie in the Sabi Sand where a single roadside tap is a lifeline for a thousand people. Five- and six-year olds are queuing to fill up their drums, loading them onto wheelbarrows for the umpteenth time and heading for home.

Mandla Mathonsi, front of house manager at the neighboring Djuma Game Reserve is my guide. born in the village of Seville, Mandla graduated from Manyangana high school, and like many in the community, started his career in hospitality and tourism. We wind along the dirt roads, the houses, yards and animals dusted to a uniform shade of grey by the wind. From under trees and washing lines, toddlers wave and shout hello.

“Some 800 000 people call the Manyeleti district home, but the majority are without jobs,” he explains. “They don’t have employable skills nor the resources for training. In fact government has identified this community as one of 23 areas representing the largest concentrations of poverty in South Africa.”

Together with the buffelshoek Trust, Djuma is involved in projects from feeding schemes at crèches, to facilitating electricity and water supplies. “All our projects are rooted in the philosophy of ‘empowerment through education’,” says buffelshoek Trust project director Shehnaz Cassim. “It’s hoped that by providing these basic services, this rural community will have a far better foundation for sustainable development.”

We stop off at the Samson Sibuyi primary school in Dixie where 270 children are enjoying their break amid a cacophony of shouts, laughter and impromptu soccer. A brand new brick building houses the principal’s office and computer centre – one

Together with the buffelshoek Trust, Djuma Game Reserve has formed strong links with its neighboring communities. As Tess Paterson discovered, visits to the villages of Utah, Dixie and Seville are proving a hit with lodge guests.

Words Tess Paterson Photos karin Schermbrucker

LEFT: Children playing in Dixie.

RIGHT [top to bottom]: Young learners at Shiviti Primary School, Utha Village. Children collecting water in Dixie Village. Happy family scene in Utha Village. Shiviti Computer Centre.


of seven in the area built by the trust “We started out giving classes under the trees,” says teacher Deppa Mathonsi. “This centre has brought internet access and global connectivity to our students, most of whom don’t even have electricity at home.”

Outside the Manyangana High School, swathes of teens are heading home. “This school serves the Utah, Dixie and Seville communities,” says Mandla, “and it constantly achieves an above-70% matric pass rate. We’ve seen pupils move on to become engineers, doctors and accountants.” Later we visit the community centre and the new clinic at Utah, drive past the just-baked scents of the bakery and stop off for a beer with the locals at one of the shebeens.

For guests staying at Djuma, a community visit is an invaluable add-on. For starters it gives a powerful insight into lives that are lived with precious few resources. but mostly it’s a chance to meet people who call the Manyeleti home. you might bump into school principle

Albert Mgiba who remembers a time when rain storms signalled the end of classes held outdoors. Or Wonder Khoza who teaches at the Wisani crèche where Djuma’s input ensures that 85 eager minds are guaranteed at least one solid meal a day. At Dixie we drive past the home of Elmon Mhlongo – the legendary Shangaan tracker who assisted in the making of so many wildlife films at Londolozi.

Soon we’re back at the lodge, filled with the heady anticipation that precedes a game drive at sunset. but it’s the faces at the crèches that linger in your mind, filled with limitless creativity and potential. “We want to see them prosper,” says Mandla. “To access education and develop viable businesses in these villages. If we get the schooling right, all the rest will follow.”

ABOVE: Mandla Mathonsi with pre-schoolers from Wisani Crèche, Dixie Village.

BELOW [left to right]: Texon Nkuna, guide at Djuma Private Game Reserve, Vuyatela Lodge.

Main viewing deck at Vuyatela. Sundowners during game drive at Vuyatela.

“WE STARTED OUT GIVING CLASSES UNDER THE TREES”

[ D j U M A ]

Bush-mad and deeply connected to the wild, Djuma Game Reserve’s Graham Cooke is in demand for private safaris.

Words Tess Paterson Photos karin Schermbrucker

http://www.facebook.com/pages/ The-Gowrie-Gang/109204912454776

Lean, rangy and sun-weathered, Graham Cooke is part Crocodile Dundee, part Comrades Marathon runner. Starting out as a rookie ranger at Londolozi,

he’s spent 22 years acquiring some serious bush-cred. 12 years’ guiding at Djuma was preceded by stints in Zambia’s Kafue National Park, and a year at Phinda Forest Lodge in KwaZulu-Natal. He also hand-reared two leopard cubs in the Sabi Sand, before releasing them into the south Luangwa Valley. “I was

a great mom,” he says. “One of the cubs was killed by a crocodile, and it’s something you

just never get over.”

So what is it that keeps guests returning (and paying a premium) to safari with this offbeat bush lover? “I haven’t a clue,” he says, shaking his head. “All I know is that I wanted to live in the bush from the age of four. It’s the guide’s passion that makes or breaks a safari. My guests have to have fun and experience phenomenal sightings. But they’ve also got to leave here having learned about the wild.

The bush is not about five animals; it’s up to the guide to interpret the entire experience, and to do it with

sensitivity.”

Graham is currently filming a troop of baboons at Djuma. “It took me over a year to get within 30

metres of them. I’ve seen hostile takeovers, walkouts, vicious arguments and socialising. It’s mind-blowing.” He’s slowly getting to know every member of the troop, and in characteristic fashion has named each one. For starters there’s Twopac, Wombat, Barry, Eddie and Darth Vader. “I haven’t yet got to the point where they’ll groom me,” he says. “But when the time

comes, I hope it’s Shirley-Hurley – she’s a darling.”

P R I vATE

safari

[ K I N G S C A M P | D j U M A | M A D I K W E H I L L S ]

This is the ultimate wildlife expedition for aspirant photographers, from complete novices to committed amateurs. An

exclusive ten-day nature and predator photo-graphic master-class for two to maximum six persons, in the heart of South Africa’s finest private game reserves, luxuriating in exclusive world-class lodges, and led by Marius Coetzee or Greg du Toit, both professional safari guides and award-winning photographers.

Your photographic expedition leader guides this personalised adventure to one of Africa’s most thrilling wildlife photographic destinations, offer-ing participants un-rivalled hands-on knowledge of this unique environment, with expert photo-

graphic advice and tutoring. The three reserves visited are all

distinctive for specific predators, and were hand-picked for their exceptional wildlife photographic opportunities.

This exclusive private expedition begins in Madikwe Game Reserve (Madikwe Hills), home to one of the largest populations of the critically endangered African Wild Dog, moves on to the legendary Timbavati (Kings Camp) where the only “wild” white lion gene occurs, and concludes at the Sabi Sand Game Reserve (Djuma Vuyatela), unique for its prevalence of Africa’s most elusive predator, the leopard.

This nine-night fly-in package is available from R56 750 per person based on a minimum of six participants.

LEOPARD, WHITE LION & AFRICAN WILD DOG

PHOTOGRAPHIC OPPORTUNITIES

WITH MARIUS COETzEE &

GREG DU TOIT

E x P E D I T I O N

exclusive predator

Pho tographicWords Anne Schauffer Photo Marius Coetzee

For more information or to book the Photographic Safari,

contact Kelly on Telephone: +27 13 737 6626

E-mail: [email protected]




• Lodge hop flights - KMIA, Sabi Sands, Timbavati, Pafuri, Phinda and Rocktail Bay.• Our fleet of aircraft are in immaculate condition.• We offer competitive prices.• Our professional pilots are knowledgeable of the airstrips.• We offer a meet and greet service on behalf of your Company.• Each aircraft is fitted with leg blankets in the winter months.• Guests receive refreshments and dry snacks on each lodge to lodge transfer.• For the summer months we offer face cloths soaked in citronella oil and refrigerated.• We provide reading material such as the daily newspaper and a local magazine on the Mpumalanga Lowveld.

CURRENT FLEET:

• King Air B200 • King Air C90

• Pilatus PC12 • Cessna Caravan

• Cessna 402C Businessliner • Cessna Crusader

• Seneca II • Cessna 206

Please contact us for a comparative private char ter quotation.

P O Box 473, Nelspruit 1200

24 HOuR CONtAC t NuMbERS

Tel: 082 306 7935 Alternate Tel: 079 519 8776

Fax: 086 518 8340

[email protected] / [email protected]

www.odieair.com

Operating out of Kruger Mpulalanga International Airport, we offer exclusive Private Charters

and Lodge Hops, making the African bush experience that much more accessible.


OuRplaygroundWords Anna Trapido

...the wonders of wild life are an everyday occurrence.


[ L E O PA R D H I L L S ]

Many travellers dream of a once in a lifetime trip to the 5 star Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve, situated inside Sabi Sand, bordering the world famous kruger National Park. But what if such a setting was a daily reality rather than a once off wonderful experience?


For 14 year old Megan-Amy Rodgers and her 11 year old sister Kiara-Paige (daughters of reserve management couple Louise and Duncan Rodgers) the wonders of wild life are an every day occurrence.

The Rodgers girls are amongst a small handful of children who live, play and go to school within the reserve. While some rural teenagers long for the bright lights and the big city, Megan-Amy loves her lifestyle and says “I often get to go on game drives... it doesn’t matter whether I see animals, just being in the bush is special enough, but I have to say I have not ever been out and not seen something, even a beautiful sunset or clear stars with a full moon is spectacular – especially as we have no light pollution here.”

Life at Leopard Hills is not all fun and game drives for Megan-Amy and Kiara-Paige. While long distances on rugged roads make travelling to a day school an impossibility, education is not optional. Megan-Amy explains that “eight years ago the owners of Leopard Hills kindly opened a school here at the lodge. All my schooling has taken place here, the school now has 4 children in it, I being the oldest, and Promise who is 13 and has been with us 9 years, and Kiara my sister is 11 and Storm who is also 11. So, we have an all girl’s school!”

When they are not studying under the watchful eye of teacher Marlise Du Toit, Megan-Amy and Kiara-Paige are keen jewellery makers. Their company beading Around the bush make one of a kind necklaces, rings and bracelets to sell at the Leopard Hills Lodge Curio Shop. While some children might put their profits towards sweets and toys for themselves Megan-Amy explains that they have chosen to “raise money for the orphanage Leopard Hills supports, we spent many, many hours beading and making jewellery to sell in the shop, with all our endeavours we managed between us to raise R 6000.”

IT DOESN’T MATTER WHETHER

I SEE ANIMALS, jUST bEING IN

THE bUSH IS SPECIAL ENOUGH

[ L E O P A R D H I L L S ]


[ L E O PA R D H I L L S ]

Clearly Megan-Amy is a kindly creature and she does try to comfort those of us who are not lucky enough to live her lifestyle with the idea that there are some downsides to game lodge living. In this endeavour she is not very convincing! She says “growing up in the bush means that our daily dangers are very different to those of children growing up in the city. On any day we can have elephants, lions or any type of animal outside our veranda at home. We have been sitting at our dining room table doing homework and had a leopard lying on the pool loungers on the veranda just a few feet away from us! Many a time we have had elephants eating our garden – when they eat my Mum’s spinach it makes her really mad!”

Ultimately it is hard to begrudge the Rodgers girls their lovely lives when they are so charmingly appreciative of their lot. In a recent blog Kiara-Paige wrote “we went on an afternoon drive... and we saw some spots in the grass and a cheetah was lying there... and I thanked God for letting me live in the bush with all the wonderful things I have.” bless the little bush babe.

LEFT [top to bottom] TOP: “Beading Around the Bush” makes a difference for the local

children. Back to reality! A day in class with the conventional way of learning. Art class with a large canvas – the girls add a touch of colour to the lodge’s boma.

TOP: Megan, Kiara, Storm, Promise and teacher Marlise off on a field trip with a difference in the magic “school bus”.

ABOVE: Sharing our playground with others – never a dull moment!


HAZyv I EW

the valley of


From hot-air ballooning to a gentle spot of hippo-watch-

ing, the Sabie River Valley offers endless diversions.

At Perry’s Bridge Hollow and Hippo Hollow hotels in

Hazyview, the adventures start right on your doorstep.

Words Tess Paterson

[ L O W V E L D H O L L O W S ]


[ L O W v E L D H O L L O W S ]

It’s still dark when we arrive at the balloon launch site, just outside Hazyview on the road to Sabie. Pilot Kevin Roberson and his team are systematically unrolling 27m of brightly coloured nylon onto the lawn. Armed with a massive electric fan and gas burners, the giant sphere slowly inflates as dawn streaks the treetops with light.

“Please note this is a non-smoking flight,” says Kevin drily as we rise smoothly above the Sabie River. There are the usual jokes about whether Airline Miles apply, and someone wonders aloud if you can fix holes in balloon fabric using a domestic sewing machine. Apart from the intermittent blasts of heat that come close to singeing your pip (baldies take note) ballooning has to be one of the most peaceful activities on the planet.

“We moved here from the madness of joburg 12 years ago,” explains Kevin, who owns balloons over Africa with his wife Cathy. “back then this area was really about being close to Kruger, but the adventure activities have grown substantially.” Take the quad

bALLOONING

HAS TO bE ONE

OF THE MOST

PEACEFUL

ACTIvITIES ON

THE PLANET


biking, for instance, or the Skyway Trails where you can whiz along the longest aerial cable trail in Africa, above a natural forest. And if you really feel that hanging about in a wicker basket is just too sedate, microlighting is always an option.

The previous day I chatted to Wally van Welie, a retired management consultant who’s run Aviation Adventures Flying Club in Hazyview for the past six years. “Without doubt the Sabie River area has become renowned as the valley of adventure,” he says. “Our clients want to see this beautiful terrain from the air, whether it’s a 10 minute flight around Hazyview, or 90 minutes that takes in areas like the blyde River Canyon, bourke’s Luck potholes and the Mac Mac Falls.”

While I’ve always thought of a microlight as a lawnmower with wings, Wally soon puts me right. “Ours are fixed-wing bantams,” he explains, “with a windscreen, side by side seating and the same instrumentation as an aircraft. It’s not a noisy flight because of the

Corner Main & Sabie Road - HazyviewTel: 013 737 6929

E-mail: [email protected]

A unique shopping & dining experience in

the heart of Hazyview...CHOCOLATIER I RESTAURANTS

COFFEE SHOP I BAKERY

BREWERY I DELI

HAIR & BEAUTY I FASHION

SHOPPING I CLOTHING I JEWELLERY

CURIOS I ORIGINAL ART

INTERNET CAFÉ I REPTILE PARK

INTERIORS & FURNITURE

NURSERY I BOUTIQUE HOTEL


headphones, and we take an iPod along if you feel like some music.” Wally’s office wall serves as the visitors’ book, and as he points out, there’s a lot of brilliant! and awesome! written in languages from Dutch and French to Arabic.

And if being airborne is right up your street, this beautiful valley has a host of options to get your heart racing. Take the zipline where you’re attached to a high speed pulley on a 450m-long cable. Think of it as a foefie slide on steroids: not only are you almost 80m above the bush, but you’ll reach face-lifting speeds of up to 100km per hour.

Abseiling against a backdrop of rolling Kruger Park vistas is definitely one for the bucket list. “Face your fears and step over the edge into oblivion,” is how the team from Sabie River Adventures sums it up. bikers are well catered for too – there’s Enduro dirt biking for the experienced and/or mad, and an extensive range of quad biking and mountain bike trails.

Making the most of the beautiful Sabie River scenery, geckoing – or hurtling down the rapids in a square-shaped tube, is one mighty adrenaline rush. “This is definitely for the fit and adventurous,” says Michelle Theunissen of Induna Adventures. “We cover a couple of steep rapids, and there’s the option to jump off a nine metre high rock into the river.”

If you’re planning to explore the area, Perry’s bridge Hollow Hotel in Hazyview is a charmingly relaxed spot tucked away behind the shopping centre of the same name. Its appeal lies in the setting – established trees, single-storey farm-style buildings, and none of that strip-mall in the bush feeling that’s seems to be booming in country areas. It’s got a small-town feel, yet plenty on hand, from a chocolatier and pizza parlour to clothes shopping and art galleries.

“visitors will find the Hazyview Tourist Information Centre in the reception of Perry’s bridge Hollow,” says hotel reservations officer Lindiwe Lekhuleni. “We can assist with booking any number of activities, from golf and horse-riding, to hikes and helicopter flights. There are also a host of day and overnight tours into Kruger and the Sabi Sand offered by experienced tour operator Thompsons. Tented safaris, day and night game-drives, Maputo tours and bushwalks are most popular.”

And then there’s the reptile park at Perry’s, where Matthew Arthur’s daily demonstrations are both highly informative and entertaining. Expect to see some of SA’s most notorious critters, from puff adders and boomslangs to black and green mambas.

A CHARMINGLy RELAxED SPOT TUCKED

AWAy bEHIND THE SHOPPING CENTRE



“It’s all about educating visitors and addressing misconceptions,” says Matthew. “Snakes are 100% predictable. They don’t have off-days when they suddenly decide to bite a human. Their habitat is increasingly under threat, and they’ll always show signs if approached. We’re just trying to increase awareness, and to explain what a vital role they play in our ecosystem.”

And from puffies to pachyderms, Elephant Whispers, just a short drive away, is a must. Watched over by calm, knowledge-able handlers, visitors get to interact with elephants of varying ages. From dropping pellets into those flexible trunks, to feeling their wiry-fringed tails and shock-absorber soles, it’s a moving, unforgettable hour. If time and budgets allow, don’t miss the chance to ride on elephant-back through the surrounding bush.

After all this frenetic activity, few things can be more satisfying than a chilled glass of wine on the verandah of the nearby Hippo Hollow Hotel. With its fever-tree-lined entrance and comfy, riverside chalets, it’s a mellow venue and ideal base from which to explore the region. Get there before sunset and settle in on the deck. There’s a good chance of seeing hippo grazing, and as the moon rises the gently flowing river is a balm. but best of all, it’s just 11km from the balloon launching site. Cheers!

A GOOD CHANCE OF SEEING HIPPO GRAZING AS THE MOON RISES

BELOW [left to right]: Perry’s Bridge Hollow Boutique Hotel set in the countryside of Hazyview. Enjoy a relaxing meal at Hippo Hollow Country Estate, nestled on the banks of the Sabie river.

[ T R A N S F E R S & E x C U R S I O N S ]

There are worse ways to spend a day than touring the Panorama Route in the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle...

Words Ciska kay Photos karin Schermbrucker

highsLOW vELD

Visitors to scenic Mpumalanga are spoilt for choice. Home to the kruger National Park, arguably the country’s most famous tourist attraction, the Lowveld region boasts year-round sunshine, friendly locals and spectacular natural

beauty. You could spend weeks taking it all in, but even if time is limited, guests can still pack a wealth of experiences into a single day.

The easiest way to get around is by going on an organized excursion. Booking with the right company not only buys you peace of mind and comfort, but the wealth of information which comes with a knowledgeable guide.

The Panorama Route, which runs along the spectacular Blyde River Canyon through the rocky mountain range of the northern Drakensberg, offers a perfect blend of dramatic landscapes, cultural heritage, history and art.

Highlights en route include the Bourke’s Luck Potholes, where huge cylindrical holes were created by eons of swirling waterborne sand and rock. The aptly named God’s Window is set on the plateau, opening up breathtaking views of low-lying plains of up to a 1000m below.

A bird and tree watcher’s paradise, the route also includes cascading waterfalls, colourful traditional craft markets and historical landmarks. Here and there the landscape is pockmarked with evidence of the fevered gold rush to these parts. Quaint villages, interesting locals and spicy folklore add to the experience – and the pubs in this part of the world is filled with many a local legend.

The landscape is as old as time and offers visitors a vibrant and exciting experience. Whether its adventure sports, elephant interactions, hot air ballooning, caving, art, dining, shopping or conservation you’re interested in – the Lowveld offers a heady mix of contemporary thrills and ancient wisdom. The choice is yours.

Seasons in Africa Transfers & Excursions offers professional, knowledgeable, experienced and above all, flexible, guides. With vehicles based in the Timbavati, Nelspruit and Hazyview, all major airports, game lodges, hotels and attractions throughout the region are easily accessible. All vehicles carry the necessary transport permits and are covered by comprehensive passenger liability insurance.

SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010 55


socially responsible & fabulously fun

Hannah will never forget the feel of the elephants skin and it’s beautiful eyesHannah will never forget the feel of the elephants skin and it’s beautiful eyes

The mighty African Elephant is the world’s largest living land animal. The mere sight of these magnificent tusked creatures is enough to engender awe and wonder in the mind of even the most moderate of

wildlife enthusiasts.

So imagine 18 year old English elephant admirer Hannah Pierce’s joy when she discovered that she could live and work amidst these regal beasts at Elephant Whispers on the banks of the Sabi River, outside the small town of Hazyview in Mpumalanga, South Africa.

Elephant Whispers is an Elephant Interaction and Safari venue that is home to six tamed and trained elephants who were rescued from planned game reserve culling operations by Elephants for Africa Forever (EFAF). While it is perfectly possible to have a deliciously uncomplicated, classic safari style elephant experience at Elephant Whispers; the Elephant Whispers Volunteer Program (EWVP) offers eco-conscious explorers like Hannah the chance to enhance their holiday heaven in a socially responsible yet fabulously fun manner.

E W V P provides varied and flexible opportunities for tourists to share their expertise, skill and time with local community and ecological projects. During her time with the EWVP, Hannah was involved in activities as diverse as caring for the resident African elephants, leading trail horses on veld adventures and assisting in local social development initiatives. Since the program also offers comfortable accommodation, meals, bush sleep-outs and good company, Hannah found that it was the ideal environment in which to both contribute to and learn from other cultures and creatures.

As an enthusiastic and experienced horse rider Hannah quickly became adept on the broad backs of the EWVP’s trained elephants. Every morning she helped to take the animals out of their stables, after which she brushed them down and was then part of a group of travelers and guides who rode them to the river for their first drink of the day. Of the experience she observes that “I will always be able to recall the feel of the elephant’s skin and their beautiful eyes.”

Words Anna Trapido

Photos karin Schermbrucker

[ E L E P H A N T W H I S P E R S V O L U N T E E R S ]

socially responsible & fabulously fun

Hannah will never forget the feel of the elephants skin and it’s beautiful eyesHannah will never forget the feel of the elephants skin and it’s beautiful eyes



[ E L E P H A N T W H I S P E R S v O L U N T E E R S ]

but it was not just the striking eyes and leathery skin of Hannah’s favourite elephant Tembo who stole her heart. She also spent time with the young people at the neighbouring Hosanna day care facility and hospice for Aids orphans and displaced children. Whether she was shoveling bakkie loads of elephant manure onto the vegetable gardens at Hosanna, playing hop scotch with the little girls or a vigorous game of football with the soccer mad boys Hannah says she felt “truly blessed to have been welcomed into such a space.”

When writing about her African adventure in the EWvP guest book Hannah remarked that “I have experienced 28 great days

filled with wonderful life-changing memories. I have to return to busy London but I am unbelievably heart-sore at having to leave my newfound friends; the amazing elephants, the gentle horses and the incredibly brave orphan children at Hosanna. Encounters with all of these people, places and animals have changed my life. I will always treasure the memory of this time at the Elephant Whispers volunteer Project.”

I HAvE ExPERIENCED

28 GREAT DAyS FILLED

WITH WONDERFUL

LIFE-CHANGING

MEMORIES...

PREVIOUS PAGE: A volunteer grooming Shamwari. ABOVE [from left]: Tembo’s striking eyes. Getting ready for a veld adventure on horseback. Taking a bath. Hannah with children from Hosanna. Volunteers at work in the elephant stables. BELOW [left to right]: Grooming the horses after an outride. Time for relaxing. Volunteers getting their hands dirty with daily routine.


THE LEGEND OF THE GREAT

A cross our great continent, the peculiar, root-like branch structure of the baobab tree offers an iconic assertion

of African arboreal individuality. According to ancient legend, the tree displeased the gods by coveting the flowers and fruit of other plants. It is said that the baobab’s constant petitioning for prettier flowers and more luscious fruit caused the celestial powers to pull the tree up by its roots and replanted it upside down in order to keep it quiet!

The poor insecure baobab need not have worried. It may not have the verdant generosity of the fig or the ebullient floral beauty of the flame tree but there is a unique loveliness about the baobab’s survival amidst the arid conditions of the African savannah.

As with all the best legends, there is a twist in the baobab’s tale. For much of the year the tree is leafless but as the annual rains begin to fall, water is stored in its thick, corky trunk and the branches burst forth with a lush foliage known as kuka. These leaves thicken and add a subtle sorrel-like flavour to soups and stews.

The ancient majesty of the baobab tree is celebrated at Kuka Restaurant in Hazyview. The name of the restaurant honours the three beautiful baobabs growing on the Perry Bridge Trading Post property and their grandeur has inspired the Afro-chic ambiance of the eater y. Chef Antoinette Meyer’s menu offers a magnificent melange of ginger and coconut-laden crocodile tail, cardamom-rich springbok and rooibos tea-infused brulee. Like the baobab’s seasonal foliage,

at Kuka there is African alimentary splendour in every mouthful.

Words Anna Trapido Photos karin Schermbrucker

kU

kA

SO

UP I NGRED I ENTS

225g dried kuka leaves225g dried, ground, okra1 fresh chilli 4 fresh tomatoes1 small onion, finely sliced500g dry or fresh fish, cut into 3cm cubes6 tbsp palm oil1l fish stock salt to taste

METHOD• blend the tomato, onion and chilli into a paste then combine with the stock and palm oil and bring the mixture to a boil.

• Add the fish to the stock and simmer for 15 minutes.

• Once the fish is cooked through, add the okra and kuka and cook for a further10 min.

• Season to taste and serve hot on a bed of rice or with fufu.

[ k U k A R E S TA U R A N T ]

Source www.capeinfo.com

the bestSIX OF

The combination of great weather and a variety of terrains makes the region surrounding knysna Hollow Country Estate the perfect playground for those in search of relaxing fun in the sun.


[ K N y S N A H O L L O W ]

While Knysna Hollow’s elegant ambiance (replete with fine food and the best of Cape hospitality) is deliciously suitable for languorous lunches and cocktail laden chatty afternoons, those who

make the effort to leave the estate will be rewarded with a kaleidoscope of unforgettable experiences. We take a look at six reasons Knysna is a world favourite destination, named as one of the Top 100 Destinations in the World and one of the Top 25 in Africa in the Trip Advisor Travellers’ Choice Destinations Awards.

knysna has perfect weather all year round. Spring is soft and silky, Autumn tingles on the skin like champagne, Winter is crisp as an apple and the African summer bronzes the soul with its pure sunlight. Whatever the season, Knysna stays green.

A Natural Paradise. Nestled between the impressive Outeniqua Mountains and the Indian Ocean, with the world-renowned forests encircling it like a protective mantle. The estuary is protected from the sea by the monolithic sandstone “Heads” – silent sentinels down the centuries of the rich history. Adding to the richness of this incredible region is the spectacular Fynbos vegetation, contributing 8 000 plant species to the Cape floral kingdom, nature quite literally knocks on your front door.

Animal kingdom. Knysna boast an array of unique and some endangered species including the unique Knysna seahorse, the delicate Pansy shell of the lagoon, endangered dwarf chameleon and brenton blue butterfly. The Humpback and Southern Right whales visit the coastline during the months of May and September to breed and present a spectacular theatre of as they loll about. The area is home to a wealth of bird life and numerous near-endemic avian wonders and the beaches provide a breeding ground for the endangered African black Oyster Catcher.

Adventure and Sport. Play in the forests and dive into outdoor adventures like horse riding, hiking, yachting, fishing and canoeing. For a pure adrenalin rush get into the more extreme

sports of abseiling, paragliding, scuba diving or water skiing and some of the best mountain bike routes in the country.

Mecca for the gourmand. Wine and dine your way through a formidable array of fine restaurants, seafood taverns, pubs, coffee shops, delicatessens and other interesting eateries.

Last, but certainly not least, beer and oysters! “Local is lekker” is a famous South African saying promoting the use of local

ExPERIENCE WHAT HAS MADE THE TOWN A TOP 100 DESTINATION WORLDWIDE

LEFT: Aerial view of Knysna. ABOVE [left to right]: Discover eco tourism in Featherbed Nature Reserve and explore the wonders of the outdoors.


[ K N y S N A H O L L O W ]

products first and foremost. In Knysna this is quite easy to strive towards with two strong contenders. Mitchell’s brewery opened 25 years ago in Knysna and is arguably the leading micro brewery in South Africa. Oysters and Knysna are synonymous. The cultivated oysters are famous for its fresh, nutty taste while the wild coastal oyster is more salty in taste and readily available at local eateries. A dozen or so Knysna oysters with either a Mitchell’s beer or a glass of Cap Classique are certainly one of the reasons to initiate a listing as a top destination!

So there you have it, six wonderful reasons to visit Knysna on the famous Garden Route. When all this activity makes you weary, return to Knysna Hollow to refresh your spirit in the tranquil surroundings of the country estate. begin your journey to this fascinating town and experience what has made it a Top 100 destination worldwide. just arrive, the rest comes naturally!

SUITAbLE FOR LANGUOROUS LUNCHES AND COCKTAIL LADEN CHATTy AFTERNOONS

ABOVE & BELOW: Knysna offers an array of activities and attractions.

BELOW [right]: Delectable meals and sundowners can be enjoyed at Knysna Hollow Restaurant.

Magnolia RestauRant is the lowveld venue of choice

Words Anna Trapido

Throughout the world the blooms of the magnolia tree are symbolically associated with dignity, grace and nobility much like the best blushing brides. So it is fitting that

Magnolia Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge, a setting that shares these traits with its namesake blossom, should have become the wedding venue of choice for lowveld celebrations of love.

Situated in White River, this eclectic, elegant eatery appetisingly serves something special. Afro-chic, quirky interiors conjure up an old world grace while über-glamorous, super seasonal menus romance even the most sceptical of guests. Menus are designed around the tastes of individual engaged couples with the help of Chef-patron Jamie Watt, who has cooked for both the Queen of England and Charlize Theron, and consequently lays on richly regal, deliciously diva style meals to suit even the most demanding of brides.

Think rose petal martinis with views overlooking orange groves and you will begin to get a feel of Magnolia’s magnificent potential. While the restaurant and cocktail lounge have a glamorous ambiance, the lower level Magnolia

Café is child friendly so it is good to know that once the flower girls and page boys have fulfilled their ceremonial duties they can kick off their shoes, tuck into a piece of cake and clamber their way around the superb ship shaped climbing frame.

With Casterbridge Hollow Hotel moments away the bride and groom can slip effortlessly from wedding into honeymoon without the stress of tedious travel, and wake up to Chef Watt’s nuptial breakfast of butter laden croissants.

[ M A G N O L I A R E S TA U R A N T ]


Less than a year after its opening, the Green Annexe at Cape Town’s Hollow on the Square continues to raise the bar on environmentally responsible tourism.

Words Tess Paterson Photos karin Schermbrucker & Chris Cloete

Green LivinG contributing to the environment


[ H O L L O W O N T H E S q U A R E ]

Opened in December 2009, the stylish Green Annexe at Hollow on the Square is armed with a host of eco-savvy credentials. From its 12 solar panels and double-glazed windows to the cork flooring and bamboo furniture, the 30-

room extension is a model of low-energy and sustainable design.

“Since then our focus has been on monitoring the energy use now that the rooms are full,” says co-owner and project manager Mark bleloch. “Although Hollow on the Square is connected to the city-council grid, we use green electricity for the Annexe’s 30 rooms, foyer and lift. Our renewable energy certificate (REC) from brokers Greenx is a means of linking the hotel to the hydro-electric generator. We have a completely transparent monitoring system, whereby precise details of the power consumption can be viewed online at anytime.”

Mark adds that this is an excellent management and cost-monitoring tool, and gives an accurate carbon footprint of the building. “We know exactly how many trees should be planted to offset our energy use,” he says. “Of course the design plays a big role too, from the large windows which naturally warm and cool the building, to effective insulation, solar water heating and a key-card system which cuts power as guests leave the room. Our average consumption is 400W per occupied room per night, which is probably a third of most hotels.”

When it comes to the demands of responsible travellers, the Annexe’s use of green energy and practices, is a strong

OUR ELECTRICITy

USAGE IS AT

LEAST A THIRD OF

A STANDARD

HOTEL ROOM

ABOVE: The use of showers, cork flooring, electricity key cards and the bamboo fixtures showcase the low-energy sustainable design elements.

BELOW: The 12 glycol filled solar panels on the rooftop, shadowed by Table Mountain.

selling point. GreenStaySA, which promotes the improved environmental performance of tourist establishments, gave it a Four Leaf grading. “The seven criteria range from water use and recycling to design and construction,” says Mark. “This level indicates a serious responsibility towards the environment, and it’s some-thing that discerning tourists are watching out for.”

“We’ve had a very favourable response in terms of guests wanting to lessen their carbon footprints during their stay,” adds Hollow on the Square GM, Andy Ematinger. “Raising the green bar is an ongoing process. We’ve looked at the smallest details, such as using wall dispensers for soap and shampoo to avoid accumulating plastic containers. Our next step is to

improve our waste disposal, to go further than just separating the different items.”

“Ultimately we’d like the entire operation to go green,” says Mark, “from the way we do our laundry, to our choice of suppliers. We’re expecting our accreditation with The Green Leaf Environmental Standard to come through in the next two months. Initiated by the Wilderness Foundation, it’s an international standard aimed at reducing the effects of consumption on the environment, particularly in the tourism sector.”

With its calm palette and thoughtful design, the Green Annexe is a serene place where guests want to retreat to after a busy day. “We’ll continue looking at ways push the eco envelope,” says Mark. “but much of the appeal is that this is a small and very comfortable hotel, without any sense of excess.”

• Recycling

• Linenchangingprograms

• Energyefficientlighting

• Reducingheating/coolinglevels

• Usingnon-toxic,earthfriendlycleaningagents

• Solarwaterheating

• Reducingelectricityconsumption

• Conservingwater

• Creatingwater-wisegardens

Usingrefillablehotelamenities

66 SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010

TOP: Eco-friendly elements complement the design in the hotel rooms [from left to right] bamboo furniture, double-glazing on doors and windows and environmentally rated Daikin air-conditioning.

LEFT: Green Annexe co-owner and project manager Mark Bleloch.

[ H O L L O W O N T H E S q U A R E ]

...A MODEL OF LOW-ENERGy AND SUSTAINAbLE DESIGN

W hat makes a Hotel GREEN?“Green” hotels implement important practices and programs to reduce energy, water, and waste by participating in:

Chief Peer Mkhonto strolls regally into the lantern-lit boma beneath a full moon. It’s a clear night on the banks of the Sabi River, and the audience breaks into spontaneous

applause. He’s dressed in traditional Shangaan gear of leopard skin and angora fleece. Raising a curved kudu horn, he blasts a vuvuzela-like signal for the dancing to begin.

Brimming with energy the Ronaldsey Youth Traditional Dancers file into the Shangaan River Club. Belying their slim frames, four teenage girls bang out a deep, primal beat on their drums. The ‘warriors’ aged 6 to 18 begin those leg-stomping, stick-wielding moves that would make Johnny Clegg proud.

The harsh reality though, is that most of these dancers are AIDS orphans. Thanks to the collaboration between Chief Peer and Hippo Hollow, the evening’s work is a safe means of income for essentials like food, clothing and school fees.

“It all began in 1999,” explains Chief Peer. “A gang in the area used a street child to break into a clothing store, the child lost his life when

the authorities intervened. I struggled to come to terms with this, and decided to train street children to dance, to teach them the ancient traditions of the Shangaan people.”

Sheltering children in his own home, the chief has undertaken to care for and educate scores of youngsters since then. “Our culture says ‘learn when you are young, and know where you come from.’ We use the songs and dances to instil these values in the children.”

All I know is that these children have to go to school, to know that it’s wrong to steal, and to respect each other.”

When you’re next in Hazyview, head down to Hippo Hollow and catch these courageous, skilful dancers in action and enjoy a fantastic evening’s enter-tainment under the stars.

...MOvES THAT WOULD MAKE jOHNNy CLEGG PROUD

Words Tess Paterson Photos karin SchermbruckerSMARTmoves

The Shangaan River Club is more than just a feast of traditional dancing...

[ S H A N G A A N R I v E R C L U b ]

ABOVE [left to right]: Children making a traditional drum, traditional dancing at Shangaan River Club, shelter for the youth.

BELOW: Youth in training and Cheef Peer Mkhonto (right).


Taking in the splendour of the distant haze of the falls, while drifting past the Mosi oa Tunya Zambezi national park is an experience never to forget.

Words Anna Trapido Photos Dana Allan

Taking in the splendour of the distant haze of the falls, while drifting past the Mosi oa Tunya Zambezi national park is an experience never to forget.

Words Anna Trapido Photos Dana Allan

EdgEliving on the


[ L I v I N G S T O N E ’ S A D v E N T U R E ]

Family holidays are seldom simple – and a recent trip to Zambia with my nearest and dearest was no exception to the rule! Our travelling group included one frail granny, two über excited small children, an adventure junky teenager and

a fraidy cat determined to conquer her fears (me). With such a diverse range of ages, genders and thrill thresholds I feared that no one would be able to cater for our needs. but thankfully I was wrong. Livingstone’s Adventure, the ultimate activity provider came to the rescue allowing us all to explore the spectacular natural beauty of the victoria Falls and its surrounds - each in our own unique way.

based in the city of Livingstone, the Livingstone’s Adventure Group really does have something to suit every palate and wallet. While some of us (naming no names Granny P!) took full advantage of Livingstone’s deliciously colonial style, gin and tonic-laden hospitality, other members of our party took to the skies with Livingstone’s Adventure micro-light flights and hair-raising quad bike escapades.

In holidays past I have tended to stay on the porch eating cupcakes while other members of my family jump out of

planes, run marathons and generally behave in a madly macho manner. This time I was determined to get in on the action myself so I sent my relatives off on a victorian style carriage ride and tested my own fear factor with the Makora quest canoe safari.

As I mentioned before, I am the world’s biggest coward so I was relieved to discover that many other travellers had paddled before me with Makora quest. My guide explained that while the company was recently taken over by the Livingstone’s Adventure stable it has been offering full, half and multi-day canoe safaris along the Zambezi River since 1981. Experience of the guides and routes shows in every stroke of the canoe paddle. For those who love the epic African environment there is no better way to travel. We started up stream from the victoria Falls and I found that the canoe allows the voyager to feel and truly become one with the magnificent surroundings. Taking in the splendour of the distant haze of the Falls, while drifting past the Mosi oa Tunya Zambezi National Park, is an experience I will never forget.

Island Lunch

Royal Landing

Board the African Queen

Royal Livingstone Pickup in a River Safari boat

[ L I v I N G S T O N E ’ S A D v E N T U R E ]

A TALE OF TWO bOATS You can’t visit Zambia without traversing along the

mighty Zambezi River, rich in marine and wildlife with its banks lined with lush bush and indigenous trees. A

journey along the Zambezi River leaves you spoilt for choice with the various vessels at your disposal. Providentially theUltimateCruiseExperience caters for those who are indecisive, offering two boats in one trip. Firstly, a unique propeller-free River Safari boat collects you from the edge of your Royal Livingstone or Zambezi Sun hotel and cruises along the remote channels that no other craft can reach. The safari boat allows for close-up game viewing and some of the best scenery before stopping off on an island for delicious refreshments. Thereafter board the majestic African Queen where your private table hails gracious hospitality accompanied by your personal waiter. Marvel the majestic surroundings in comfort and style before disembarking at the Royal Landing Jetty.

SOMETHING TO SUIT EvERy PALATE AND WALLET

The size of this magnificent river from a canoe is over-whelming but I was soon distracted by the bank-side elephant, and having knowledgeable guides on hand to identify the plethora of bird life, had me twitching and twittering with delight. Greedy guts that I am, I particularly appreciated the halfway island stop for refreshments!

but all good things must come to an end and as a spectacular sunset blended into a blissful night I climbed out of my canoe and took my tired, wet but exhilarated self in search of what I felt was a well earned cocktail.

70 SEASONS IN AFRICA MAGAZINE 2010


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A few years ago I had the privilege of driving an elderly lady from the USA, and for some reason she was besotted with the fact that the Rhino Horn had the famed reputation of being used as an aphrodisiac.

Now the reason behind this myth is the fact that when Rhino’s mate, the actual act of mating between these great prehistoric creatures last up to an hour and a half, giving rise, excuse the pun, to certain Oriental Cultures believing that using the Rhino Horn in a crushed powder form, has the effect of giving elderly gentlemen some form of heightened ability in this area.

Now, back to my elderly friend from the USA. Every time we came across a Rhino, she would gasp when sizing up its horn, and invariably turn to me and ask how effective I thought that Rhino Horn would be as an aphrodisiac? Try as I might, she was having none of it, and I could not convince her it was a myth.

On the final morning drive of her stay, we came across a huge Rhino with one of the longest Horns I have ever seen, this sent my elderly Lady Friend into a cacophony of some of the strangest noises I have ever heard, eventually calming down enough to ask me: “now tell me young man, how effective do you think that Rhino Horn would be as an aphrodisiac?”

I had finally had enough, diplomacy fell by the wayside, and I think before I even registered the words leaving my mouth, I responded with: Madame, the effectiveness of the Rhino Horn as an aphrodisiac is purely dependent on how well you strap it on!!!!!!”

There was a stunned silence in the Land Rover until a little snicker from the back seat, followed by an ever increasing tittering sound, until suddenly the entire vehicle erupted into hysterics, except the elderly Lady sitting next to me, who was nodding solemnly, gazing at the beautiful specimen of a Rhino as it grazed nearby the vehicle.

My one regret was not telling her before she left that I had been joking, one would have thought that was obvious. I still have visions of her on future Safaris to the African bush, telling other Guests that she once had a Ranger who told her how the Rhino Horn is used as an aphrodisiac... I just hope she was old enough to have forgotten my name!!!!

Duncan Rodgers, Operations Director at Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve

A “LONG” STORyDuncan Rodgers looks at the funny side of miscommunication on safari...

[ S E A S O N S S E N S AT I O N S ]



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Seasons in Africa Magazine 2010