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writer: laura hawkins
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Customisation is key this season, and
issey Miyake has put a unique twist on
the trend with a womenswear collection,
the shape of which can be moulded at
will. the collection, which includes
undulating dresses and sculptural sun
hats, is formed from ‘Dough Dough’
fabric, conceived by creative director
Yoshiyuki Miyamae, who was inspired by
the process of kneading bread. we’ll be
getting into shape this spring, twisting
and crumpling these pieces into a range
of new silhouettes. isseymiyake.com
Scrunch timesculptable fabric adds spring to our wardrobe
PhotograPhY: oskar ProCtor
fashion: lune kuiPers
Dress, £2,130, BY isseY MiYake
PhotograPheD at
Chris DYson arChiteCts’
alBion works in haCkneY,
lonDon, see Page 073
for stoCkists throughout,
see Page 216
∑ 069
The sharpest trends, trailblazers and sartorial triumphs
93WPR19MAR107.pgs 22.01.2019 16:53 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: rosa bertoli
Folded metal is having its moment in the sun.
Designers Kim Colin and sam Hecht, founders of
industrial Facility, have collaborated with new brand
Fucina on a furniture collection featuring thin, flat
panels arranged in graphic compositions. applying the
technique to smaller objects, swiss designer laetitia
de allegri used discreet folded elements throughout
her ‘secant’ collection of containers for london’s
ace Hotel, while Josep Vila Capdevila’s ‘trapped’ mirror
for aparentment serves both as a decorative and a
functional object. originally designed for an exhibition
exploring joints, leon ransmeier’s chair offers a softer
approach to the fold, with multiple curves intersecting
to create the sleek seat, combining aluminium and
carbon fibre in its composition. it’s a design device
that delivers clean lines and maximum impact.
Into the foldMind-bending metal works
‘trappeD’ Mirror, €90, by
Josep Vila CapDeVila, For
aparentMent. ‘piatto’ siDe
table, £2,625, by inDustrial
FaCility, For FuCina,
FroM twentytwentyone.
‘Carbon tilt’ CHair, $10,000,
by leon ransMeier. ’seCant’
Container, prototype,
by laetitia De allegri
Newspaper
∑ 071
93WPR19MAR108.pgs 22.01.2019 16:54 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writers: emma moore, ellie stathaki
Steep showwe’re raising our spirits to new heights
the fashion for aromatising your own alcohol can be
credited to two prevailing trends. the one that wants
none of your fake flavours, chemical contaminations
or superfluous sweetenings, and therefore insists all
enhancement processes be done in the home; and
the one that has us imbuing drinks with the flavour
heft of a five-course meal. to accommodate the trend,
the domestic design arena is gaining a new product.
kicked off by martin kastner of Crucial Design, who
designed his ‘Porthole’ vessel for Chicago’s the aviary
bar, alcohol infusers are proliferating, including the
‘alkemista’ by Californian brand ethan + ashe and
the spinning ‘incanter’ carafe by sempli. whether it’s
to macerate some moringa or permeate your pick-
me-up with parmesan or meadow hay, we now have
increasingly stylish ways to transform our tipples.
‘inCanter’ Carafe, $65,
by Daniele ‘Danne’
semeraro, for semPli
at albion works, Ceilings
were Cast against
sanDblasteD Douglas fir,
giving a rough, wooD-
textureD aPPearanCe. in
Contrast, walls were Cast
against PhenoliC PlywooD,
giving a smooth, almost
PolisheD aPPearanCe
work houses
our shoot location is in the east london
borough of hackney, where creative hubs
nestle among derelict warehouses and growing
residential neighbourhoods. Conceived by
Chris Dyson architects for a private owner,
the structure – a disused victorian cabinet-
making workshop – now houses five
contemporary, loft-style residences on the top
three floors and studio space on the ground
level. the development offers minimalist living
and all mod cons, at the same time referencing
its industrial origins through materials, shapes
and treatments, resulting in a richly textured
whole. inside, Dyson’s attention to detail, from
the bespoke fittings to the specially made
concrete ceilings, cast using sandblasted
Douglas fir, celebrates the site’s heritage. ‘this
project is simultaneously contemporary and
rooted in the 19th century,’ says the architect.
‘the new elevations present a palimpsest of
the past with their recessed blind windows,
while generously proportioned Crittall
windows frame long views across the gardens.’
chrisdyson.co.uk. See more at Wallpaper.com ∏
Newspaper
∑ 073
93WPR19MAR110.pgs 22.01.2019 16:55 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: laura hawkins
Big leagueBottega Veneta turns up the volume this season
Bottega Veneta’s new creative director Daniel lee
has been thinking big. the former director of
ready-to-wear design at Celine, under Phoebe Philo,
has designed two bags for the italian brand, and
our favourite comes in Xl proportions. lee drew
from Bottega Veneta’s renowned skill for intrecciato
technique, which sees strips of leather woven into
accessories, like its signature ‘Cabat’ tote. it takes
two days by hand to entwine the leather into this
hyperbolic take on the style, proof that time does
indeed work wonders. bottegaveneta.com
Bag, £6,825, By
Bottega Veneta
‘weaVe’ CaBinet, sek51,680
(€5,042), By lukas Dahlén,
for ringViDe
Newspaper
∑074
93WPR19MAR109.pgs 22.01.2019 16:56 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: rosa bertoli
Quilt by
associationUnique, handmade covers inspired by art, architecture, aunts, allies and apparel
Friends for more than three decades,
annabelle Harty and sheelagh boyce
recently joined forces on a creative
project inspired by their mutual love for
art and architecture. last year, the pair
launched arrange whatever Pieces
Come Your way to make handcrafted
quilts that reference architecture by
le Corbusier and Carlo scarpa, scenic
vistas and more conceptual images,
using materials they gather from family
and friends. For their two latest quilts,
QUilt 9, £12,000; QUilt 10,
£10,000, botH bY sHeelagH
boYCe and annabelle
HartY, For arrange
wHateVer PieCes CoMe
YoUr waY
the duo referenced a staircase in a house
in italy designed by architects act
romegialli, made using old Comme des
garçons and brooks brothers shirts
previously owned by artist Martin boyce
and chef Fergus Henderson; and oscar
niemeyer’s Communist Party HQ in Paris
recreated using clothes from issey
Miyake’s Plantation collection, belonging
to Harty’s mother. so why not take a
quilt trip down memory lane?
arrangewhateverpiecescomeyourway.com
Newspaper
∑076
93WPR19MAR111.pgs 22.01.2019 16:50 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: emma moore
‘Faaborg’ chair, £2,910, by
Kaare Klint; ‘Society’ table,
£5,442, by arne JacobSen,
both For carl hanSen &
SØn, From SKandium.
balance box, £50, by PhiliPPe
malouin, For umbra
ShiFt. ’gloo’ roller taPe
glue, ¥310 ($3), by nendo,
For KoKuyo. imitation
Squirrel-hair Sword
StriPerS, From £16, by
da Vinci; oil PaintS, £3 each,
all From JacKSon’S art
SuPPlieS. retouch PaStel
PencilS and cubeS, £38, by
caran d’ache. treStle
bowl, Price on requeSt,
by Zoë mowat. handmade
beSPoKe PaPerS, £8 For
an a4 Sheet, by mandy
brannan. ‘colorS:
retooling crayonS’, £34,
by Keetra dean dixon, From
PreSent & correct. ‘gloo’
taPe diSPenSer, ¥1,600 ($15),
by nendo, For KoKuyo.
comPuter Keyboard
bruSheS, £13 each, by
geoFFrey FiSher. throwing
toolS, PrototyPeS,
by chriStoPher riggio
leave it to nendo to revolutionise the childhood
joy of gluing. why have a round glue stick when
you can have a square one with a tip that glides
seamlessly into corners. the designer’s new range
of glue products, designed for Japanese stationer
Kokuyo, addresses all manner of adhesive
conundrums, from wandering cap to single hand
use. there’s a roller tape glue with sliding lid and
additional dotting mechanism and a colour fading
technique that serves as an alert for users of the
strong stuff – keep fingers clear until the bright red
colour has gone. Forget children, this is a joy for all.
we’ve seen it as an excuse to review our grown-up
craft box, designed for moments when we down our
everyday tools and pick up the fun ones. nendo.jp
Sticky
situationwe’re bonding with a new range of crafty accessories
Newspaper
∑ 079
93WPR19MAR112.pgs 22.01.2019 16:51 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: caragh mckay
Groom serviceJewellery designers are ringing the changes for men’s wedding bands
Opulent wedding rings have long been the bride’s
preserve, but jewellery designers are now responding
to singular requests from men. georgina Boyce’s black
rhodium ring is one such offering. ‘traditional black
rhodium tends to lose depth of colour quite quickly
and i wanted it to last, so i experimented using a
resin bake, which essentially locks the rhodium in,’
she says. the result is a glossy black, lacquer-like finish.
minimalist French brand Le gramme has toyed with
guilloché finishes and hidden-diamond formations to
create an elegantly rich alternative to the classic gold
band, while malcolm Betts finds that male clients are
‘increasingly keen to mix metals, experiment with
textures, and sometimes add diamonds, too’.
tOp right, Dk01 tuBe ring
in 18ct white gOLD (LeFt),
£2,785, By Dina kamaL, FrOm
DOver street market; FLat
cOurt weDDing BanD in
18ct white gOLD, BLack
rhODium anD resin, £880,
By geOrgina BOyce
BOttOm right, 2mm BanD in
18ct BrusheD reD gOLD with
Baguette-cut DiamOnDs
(LeFt), price On request;
verticaL guiLLOchÉ BanD
in 18ct white gOLD, €1,400,
BOth By Le gramme
BeLOw, pLatinum eternity
ring with channeL-set
DiamOnDs (LeFt), £3,950,
By maLcOLm Betts;
hOrizOntaL guiLLOchÉ
BanD in 18ct white gOLD,
€1,400, By Le gramme
‘carBOn tiLt’ chair
(as surFace), $10,000,
By LeOn ransmeier
Newspaper
∑080
93WPR19MAR113.pgs 23.01.2019 10:30 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: emma moore
From top to bottom, 601 Amber & Gaiac Wood eau de parfum; 301 Jasmine & Sandalwood eau de parfum; 701 Leather & Vetiver eau de parfum; 201 Apple & Driftwood eau de parfum; 501 Iris & Vanilla eau de parfum; 401 Lavender & Juniper eau de parfum; 101 Clementine & Violet Flower eau de parfum, all £51 for 50ml, by NCP Olfactives
Coast cologne, £59 for 50ml; Country cologne, £59 for 50ml, both by Thomas Clipper
I Don’t Know What eau de parfum; Amber Teutonic eau de parfum, both $260 for 100ml, by DS & Durga
‘Piatto’ side table, £2,625, by Industrial Facility, for Fucina, from Twentytwentyone
Mixed spicewe’re in tiers with our new multi-ply perfumes
Layering scent is not new, but a new push to put
customisation in the hands of the consumer is
taking hold. British brand thomas Clipper has
developed a trio of scents, called City, Coast and
Country, designed to mix according to mood and
location, while US brand DS & Durga has developed
a fragrance enhancer called i Don’t Know what,
which has the ability to re-animate any other scent
in your repertoire. the London-based experimental
Perfume Club has produced Layers, a blending
collection comprising three scents that can be used
to mix a unique smell in a fourth empty bottle.
meanwhile, the newest line to emerge from Sweden,
NCP olfactives, a collaborative effort between
actress Noomi rapace, hairdresser Steve terry,
record producer ash Pournouri, perfumer Yann
Vasnier and businessman Jonas Nilsson, puts you
in total control of your fragrance experience. the
line consists of short formula scents in bottles with
lids whose monochromatic bar design varies in
spacing according to its intensity, guiding the
consumer in the layering process. we’re now on
the scent of our own unique smell.
Newspaper
∑082
93WPR19MAR115.pgs 23.01.2019 10:05 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writers: rosa bertoli, emma moore
pump up the base
this new wood pizza oven, designed by
broberg and ridderstråle for röshults,
has got us all fired up. made from stainless
steel and teak with built-in storage, plus
the option of a marble-topped side table,
it can easily integrate into an outdoor
kitchen. want to update your pizza offering
to match your oven? Pimping your pizza
this year is less about toppings and all
about the base – the more nutrition you
can pack in, the better. italian flour
purveyor Polselli is selling paprika, turmeric
and hemp-laced flours, while alternative
grains, such as spelt and barley, and seeded
flours are also getting a look in. meanwhile,
keep an eye out for Modernist Pizza, the
next book in the modernist Cuisine series.
brda.se; roshults.com; polselli.it;
modernistcuisine.com
Born againachille Castiglioni’s iconic flowerpot stand returns in brand new colours
the strength of celebrated italian designer achille
Castiglioni, who died in 2002, lay in his unique
ability to combine simplicity with irony. His functional
pieces often took utilitarian elements and refashioned
them into works that combine style and substance,
the ‘albero’ plant holder being a perfect example.
Created in 1983, its tubular metal stands fan out like
the branches of a tree, plant pots balanced at its
tips creating a vertical composition of greenery.
relaunched by Zanotta in four colours (white, black,
amaranth and green), the arms can be rotated
into different settings and fully disassembled. zanotta.it
above, ‘albero’ flowerPot
stand in amarantH, £744,
by aCHille Castiglioni, for
Zanotta, from tHe Conran
sHoP. ConPots, £30 eaCH;
Plants, from £7, all from
forest. terraZZo Pots, £43
eaCH, by marie miCHielssen,
for seraX. ’UneartHed
interiors’ Pots, £70 eaCH, by
sevak Zargarian. watering
Can, £250, by george riding
rigHt, bbq wood oven,
£6,600, by broberg &
ridderstrÅle, for rÖsHUlts
Newspaper
∑084
93WPR19MAR117.pgs 23.01.2019 10:19 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: laura hawkins
after seasons of streetwear shapes, the men’s spring
catwalks signalled a shift towards more elegant
silhouettes. Overcoats and suits are returning to
tailoring, with stella McCartney and ermenegildo Zegna
offering sophisticated takes in check, but loro Piana
took things a step further, providing the answer to
all our elegance-meets-outdoors needs. there’s
a dandyish drama behind the houndstooth finish
of this overcoat, one which, thanks to the italian
brand’s weatherproof rain system technology, can
also withstand a downpour. there’s no better way
to steal someone’s thunder. loropiana.com
Shower powerloro Piana’s outerwear is right as rain
COat, £2,575, by lOrO Piana
‘DOra’ ClOthes stanD,
€199, by FerM living.
ClOthes hanger, €227,
by giObagnara
Newspaper
087∑
93WPR19MAR116.pgs 23.01.2019 10:14 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: emma moore
‘instrumentarium’
Pierogi set, including
Pastry board, rolling
Pin, sPatula, brush,
ceramic bowls, atomiser,
round mould cutter,
wheel cutter, dough
scraPer and linen
cloth, PrototyPe, by
stanisław stuPkiewicz
Pierogis, made by
Pierogi comPany
Dough boya student’s sublime pierogi set is top of the class
stanisław stupkiewicz is a proud Pole who wants to
ensure the international profile of his homeland’s
dumpling, the pierogi, is not only high, but high class.
For his graduation project at warsaw’s academy of
Fine arts, he has designed a refined 12-piece set,
‘instrumentarium’, for putting together perfect pierogi.
‘creating uniquely purposed tools encourages us to
not only appreciate the final effect, but also celebrate
the process of making pierogi,’ says stupkiewicz.
the dumpling is celebrated worldwide in festivals
(such as the Pittsburgh Pierogi Festival) and specialist
restaurants (london’s the Pantry by Pierogi company),
which often showcase creative, cross-cultural fillings.
there’s nothing to say you can’t whip up a wonton or
make manti with it – just maybe don’t let on.
Newspaper
∑088
93WPR19MAR179.pgs 23.01.2019 10:44 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
writer: laura hawkins
Strap starsPractical accessories with well-hung good looks
Fashion’s current liking for hands-free
accessories seems largely to be of a
sporty sensibility, but for those in search
of both practicality and panache, spring
comes with a sense of gentlemanly ease.
at Burberry, riccardo tisci’s catwalk
debut featured an umbrella with a chain
strap, allowing sensible dressers to bolster
it across the body. spanish accessory
designer Álvaro González had more
sun-kissed adventures in mind. in a bid
to stop people from accidentally leaving
their shades behind on a sun lounger,
his single-strap leather pouch is roomy
enough to accommodate sunglasses,
credit cards and keys. luxuriously honed,
hands-free versatility, come rain or shine.
burberry.com; alvaro.ag
umBrella, £350,
By BurBerry. BaG,
£350, By Álvaro
Newspaper
∑ 091
93WPR19MAR114.pgs 23.01.2019 10:38 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN