[Scott Wilson] Tacos Authentic, Festive Flavors

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Scott Wilson

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Scott Wilson

TACOS

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Copyright 2009 by Scott Wilson

All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form, or by any

electronic, mechanical, or other means, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Printed in China

Published by Sasquatch Books

Distributed by PGW/Perseus

15 14 13 12 11 10 09 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Cover photographs: Lara Ferroni

Cover design: Rosebud Eustace

Interior design and composition: Rosebud EustaceInterior photographs: Lara Ferroni

extured patterns: Billy Alexander / www.sxc.hu

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Wilson, Scott, 1965

acos : authentic, festive & flavorful / Scott Wilson.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references. ISBN-13: 978-1-57061-612-9

ISBN-10: 1-57061-612-4

1. acos. 2. Salsas (Cookery) 3. Cookery, American--Southwestern style. I. itle.

X836.W45 2009

641.84--dc22

2009016940

Sasquatch Books

119 South Main Street, Suite 400

Seattle, WA 98104

(206) 467-4300

www.sasquatchbooks.com

[email protected]

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CONTENTS

Introduction v

SALSAS ANDSIDES 1

TACOS 29

DRINKS AND

DESSERTS 83References and Resources 96

Index 98

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v

INTRODUCTION

Te twenty-first century is destined to be the Century of the aco. Te 1900swere most definitely the Pizza Century, as that delicious invention that beganmodestly in Italy ended up being available in every town from ierra del Fuegoto the Arctic Circle. I dont believe that pizza is going away, or that it will beknocked from its mighty throne by the up-and-coming taco. No, theres roomin this world for more than one superstar finger food.

Consider the rapidly growing Latino food and beverage market in the United

States, with expected sales in 2011 of $8.4 billion, a 47 percent increase from2006, as reported on American Public MediasMarketplaceWeb site. Considerthat, according to the ortilla Industry Association, as of 2002, tortillas werethe second-most-popular bread product in the United States, with 32 percentof the market, trailing white bread by only 2 percent. It also estimates thatAmericans ate eighty-five billion tortillas in 2000!

: Increasingly, travelers to Mexico and other Latin American destinationsare wrapping a culinary cloak around their trips. Te expanding sophistica-tion of globe-trotters palates means that they seek to immerse themselves inthe gastronomic heritage of their host countries, not only observing authen-tic foodways, but egnaging in the food preparation as well. When they return

home, they seek to re-create these dishes. Observe magazines such as Gour-met,Bon Apptit,Food & Wine, Saveur, and others to notice that their recipesincreasingly call for ingredients that were mostly unknown a short time ago.Huitlacoche, anyone?

Fueling this trend are moves by top cooking schools in the United Statesto focus on Latin American cuisine. Te Culinary Institute of America (CIA)is building a new facility on its Hyde Park, New York, campus featuring a tra-ditional Mexican kitchen and a Yucatn-style underground oven for makingcochinita pibil(pit-roasted pork) and other authentic dishes. Also, in conjunc-tion with billionaire philanthropist Christopher Goldsbury, the CIA is openingthe Center for Foods of the Americas in San Antonio, exas. As newly trainedchefs emerge from programs such as these, we can expect to see even moreauthentic, delicious, and innovative creations on menus across the country.


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And believe me, these creations will be filling tacos as fast as we can eat them.Already, chefs across the country and beyond are serving up tacos that give a

nod to the true essence of the dish: fresh, local ingredients prepared on thespot and served right away, devoured immediately in all their juicy goodness.Te taco is the heart and soul of Mexico; it is the root manifestation of themother food. Not bad for a food thats classified as an antojito, or little whim,in Mexican cuisine.

Yet the rise of the taco into the global consciousness is quite recent. Te firstcomprehensive Mexican cookbook, Mariano Galvn Riveras Diccionario decocina, published in 1845, ran over a thousand pages but didnt include tacos.Tough the histories of Mexico and the western United States are intertwined,the Anglo population of the United States didnt become interested in eatingMexican foods until the early twentieth century. By the late nineteenth cen-

tury, American cookbooks began publishing recipes for Mexican dishes suchas tamale pie and enchiladas, but it wasnt until 1914 that the first taco recipeappeared in print. By the 1930s, specific taco recipes began to appear, such asacos de San Luis in Blanche and Edna McNeillsFirst Foods of America.

acos really began to sear themselves into the consciousness of Americansin the 1940s with the advent of the Bracero Program, under which more thanover four million Mexican farm workers came to the United States to work,mainly in agricultural jobs.

acos entered the world of American fast food with the opening of tacostands in Southern California in the 1950s, such as aco iq, El acos, and acoBell. But it was Juvencio Maldonado who, in 1950, patented the form for deep-frying tortillas into U-shaped shells, and the hard-shell taco was born.

In this book you will find recipes that range from authentic to eclectic.

Having spent a large part of my taco life in my hometown of Redwood City,in the San Francisco area, Ive been to countless taqueras and taco trucks. Infact, I invented the aco riple Crown over twenty years ago in order to jus-tify eating tacos for every meal, raising the bar on the extreme taco crawl con-cept. Mypatrnis San Vicente, El aquero Celestial. So I dont take messingaround with tacos lightly. Herein, you will find are recipes that seek to honor

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the ingredients by using cooking and preparation methods that coax out thebest they have to offer.

Most of the recipes are fairly simple. A couple of them involve several stepsbut are not complicated. Nearly all of the ingredients are widely available in theUnited States, especially if you have access to a Mexican or Latin Americanmarket. And Ive offered substitutes for ingredients that may be hard to find.Be assured, though, that you can make most of the recipes with ingredientspurchased at a well-stocked supermarket. If you live far from town and/or aMexican or Latin American market, you may want to check out the mail-ordersources at the end of the book for ingredients.

Tere are, in my estimation, three critical elements in a successful tacosession. Te first is serving the tacos hot, hot, hot, especially when grilling.Most of the meat is cut thin in order to facilitate fast cooking and retention ofjuices. Te meat heats up fast and cools down fast, too, so make sure the hun-gry mouths of friends and family are nearby. Tis is easy to do if you, as grill

master, keep the cooler of beer and aguas frescasnearby. Its even easier onceyour guests smell the marinated meats and onions as they hit the grill. As anadded bonus, use fresh seasonal and local ingredients when possible. Te fla-vor and quality are generally superb, and it makes sense to support your localbusinesses.

Te second element is a basket of hot soft tortillas, be they corn or flour. othis end, it is best to have a tortilla master who is in tune with the grill mas-

ter and can heat the tortillas just before the fillings are ready. If youre servingbuffet style, you can heat a whole bunch of tortillas and nestle them inside akitchen towel inside a tortilla warmer. If youre serving la carte, taco truckstyle, then have your tortilla person start heating tortillas a couple of minutesbefore the grilled food is ready.

Te third element is family, and that includes good friends. After all, theculture from which tacos emerged is deeply oriented toward family. Over the

years, Ive found that I only really need a few things in life: good food, goodfamily, and good friends. I believe, by the grace of God, that I have all three. Iextend to you, dear reader, what I hope you find to be a gift of good tacos toadd to your repertoire.

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Before the tortilla there was nothing. After the tortilla there was the taco.Te most profound truths are often based on simplicity. So it is with thetortilla, made from nothing more than corn, mineral lime, and water. Fromthese ingredients, ancient farmers of Mexico and Central America created aflatbread that over five thousand years later is sweeping the globe. Fillings fortacos number in the hundreds, yet the tortilla remains the same. Some factoriesdo add chemicals to their tortillas, and flour tortillas joined corn tortillas after

the Spanish Conquest, but by and large the tortilla of today is the tortilla of3400 BC.

Before corn there was teosinte (Zea mexicana), which is widely believed byscientists to be the plant that Mesoamericans developed over thousands of yearsinto what we know as corn (Zea mays). Unlike other grains, including teosinte,corn cannot distribute its mature seed, which is bound securely inside the husk.It needs human intervention for dispersal. Te oldest corn specimens yet found,

in the Guil Naquitz cave in Oaxaca, Mexico, are 5,400 years old!Not surprisingly, corn figures prominently in the creation stories of Meso-

american peoples. Within the Mayan cosmology, Yum Kaax is the deity respon-sible for agriculture in general and corn specifically. He is always depictedholding ears of corn and wearing a corn headdress.

In Popol Vuh: Te Sacred Book of the Maya, the translation of the Mayancreation story, the emergence of humanity is intricately linked with the discov-ery of corn. It describes the fifth creation of earth as when humanity appeared:

Tis, then, is the beginning [literally, planting in the Quichlanguage] of the conception of humanity, when that which wouldbecome the flesh of mankind was sought. Ten spoke they who arecalled She Who Has Borne Children and He Who Has BegottenSons, Te Framer and the Shaper, Sovereign and Quetzal Serpent.

Te dawn approaches, and our work is not successfully completed.A provider and a sustainer have yet to appeara child of light, a sonof light. Humanity has yet to appear to populate the face of theearth, they said.

Tus they gathered together and joined their thoughts in thedarkness, in the night. Tey searched and they sifted. Here they

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thought and they pondered. Teir thoughts came forth bright andclear. Tey discovered and established that which would become the

flesh of humanity.

Te story goes on to tell how four animalsfox, coyote, parakeet, andravenrevealed to the humans the yellow and white ears of maize, or corn, andpointed them in the direction of Paxil, an excellent mountain filled with themaize that would eventually be used to form the flesh of humanity.

We know from the Franciscan priest Bernardino de Sahagn that corn was

still very important during the time of the Spanish Conquest. Te most famousof his works is GeneralHistory of the Tings of New Spain. In it he writes, Teirsustenance and food was maize, which they sowed in the varieties of white andother colors; and they used it as currency.

Te Aztec word for tortilla in their Nahuatl language is tlaxcalli. Its hardto imagine that the Aztecs didnt roll up some of their favorite foods in a tlax-calli and munch on it. Just like today, there was no shortage of fillings in the

pre-Hispanic era, with myriad ingredients available, such as corn fungus, calledhuitlacoche, numerous greens, beans, potatoes, chiles, cactus pads, insects andworms, wild mushrooms, fish, crustaceans, reptiles, birds, and mammals.

During the millennia before the Spanish arrived, corn passed from hand tohand southward and northward, throughout North and Central America. It isestimated to have been cultivated in what is now the United States for overthree thousand years. By the time Europeans arrived in North America, mosttribes grew corn. But interestingly, they didnt make tortillas.

One of the great food contributions the Spanish brought to America waswheat, a grain that grew well in the regions north of Mexico City. With the culti-vation of wheat came flour tortillas. Te first known written reference that men-tions flour tortillas , dated January 15, 1734, comes from the northern Mexicanstate of Coahuila. Te cultivation of wheat, however, began in 1542. Dr. Sergio

Antonio Corona Pez, professor of history at the Universidad IberoamericanaSanta Fe in Mexico City, believes that the manufacture of flour tortillas began in1591 in Santiago de Saltillo. Tat year, a new system of irrigation canals allowedfor significant production of wheat. With a population of Hispanicized lax-caltecas (southern groups that normally ate corn tortillas) in that town, theybegan to make flour tortillas. Since that time, flour tortillas have become wellestablished and are now generally preferred in northern Mexico.

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Whether you prefer flour or corn tortillas is not important. Each class of tor-tilla has its own nuances, flavors, and fascinating history. Corn, with its ancient

Mesoamerican roots, holds a venerated place in the pantheon of food staples.Wheat, equally ancient in other lands, but a newcomer to the Americas, hasfound respectability in its adopted land. Ultimately, to hold a taco in your handis what really matters. As long as the tortilla is delicious, be it corn or flour, andthe filling is satisfying, youre in good handsand so is your taco.

Corn, or maize (Zea mays), is a grain native to the American continent andhas been a staple since pre-Hispanic times. It is still a very important food intodays diet. As I discussed earlier, the first tortillas in Mexico were made ofcorn. Wheat did not arrive until the sixteenth century with the Spaniards.

In addition to developing the original corn strains, the people of Mesoamer-ica discovered a critical step in the preparation of corn that allows nutrients(niacin and vitamin C) to be released for human digestion and stabilizes an oth-erwise semi-perishable product. Te product is call nixtamal, from the Nahuatlword nextamalli, which means corn cooked with water and mineral lime. Teprocess is called nixtamalization. From this rather simple procedure comes acomplex chemical reaction that turns corn into a highly nutritious staple, the

very foundation of Mesoamerican culture.When ground into flour, corn grains release fatty oils that decompose rap-idly. Lime (calcium oxide, not the citrus fruit) has a high pH, meaning its veryalkaline, and stabilizes the enzymatic process that causes decomposition. It isprobable that the first notion of treating the corn came from adding wood ashesfrom a cooking fire, which are also very alkaline (and from which good old-fashioned lye is made) to corn while cooking. Te result is called masa, and

keeps tortillas from perishing quickly, even in the hot, humid areas of cornsbirth.Ive made nixtamal a couple of times with marginal success. Here, Ive

created a mashup from several sources to give you an idea of the process. Ifyou really want to try it, I suggest you read Diana Kennedys Te ortilla Book,then proceed.

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xiIntroduction

First, rinse the corn in cold water and make sure there are no rocks or piecesof cob mixed in. Ten put the corn in a pot and add cold water so that the corn

is well covered. Next, prepare the lime. For 1 kilo (2.2 pounds) of corn, put 1heaping tablespoon of lime in a bowl and add 1 cup of cold water. If the lime isfresh, it will begin to sizzle and give off heat from the chemical reaction. Tisprocess is known as slaking. If the lime is older, it will take longer to slake. Stirit once, then let it sit. Some residue will settle to the bottom. After the limehas slaked, bring the corn to a low simmer and add half of the lime water. Tecorn will turn a vibrant yellow right away. Ten taste a couple of drops of theliquid on your tongue. You should detect a slightly acrid, burning sensation. Ifnot, add more lime solution and taste again. If its too strong, add some waterand taste again. Cook the corn until the skins separate easily from the kernels,which takes about 20 minutes. Let the corn sit in the water overnight.

Te next day, drain the corn, rinse it, and drain again. After that, grind it in ahand-mill such as a Corona or, like the Mexicans of old (and probably still a fewtoday), with a manoand metate, made from porous volcanic stone. Te mano isthe rolling pin-like piece and the metate is the rectangular, slightly curved stonewith short legs. Once ground, the resulting masa, or dough, can be patted orpressed into tortillas, or dried for future use. Obviously, I have not advanced theart of tortilla making here, but only given a glimpse. I believe its a lot like chess:a day to learn, a lifetime to master.


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SALSAS AND SIDES

omato-Based SalsasFresh omato Salsa

Sierra-Style omato SalsaQuick omato Salsa

Chile-Based SalsasPoblano and Jalapeo Salsa

Chile de rbol SalsaDon Felix Red Salsa

Seven Chile SalsaGreen and Avocado Salsas

Fresh omatillo SalsaLa Esquina aqueras Green Salsaomatillo and Chile de rbol Salsa

Chunky Guacamole

Avocado and Jalapeo Salsa

SidesBaja Coleslaw with Shrimp

Whole Pinto BeansRice with Vegetables

Roasted Poblano Chile StripsPickled Jalapeos and Carrots

Pickled Chipotles



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2 ACOS

FRESH TOMATO SALSA

Salsa Fresca de omateNothing satisfies like a fresh tomato salsa in the middle of summer. Scoopedup on corn chips or piled liberally on the tacos of the day, the mlange ofingredients creates an irresistible symphony of fresh flavor. With red tomatoes,green cilantro, and red onions, it is as pleasing to look at as it is to taste. ripleor quadruple this recipe at the height of the season because theres neverenough.Note: When serving on tacos, use a slotted spoon to drain excess liquid. Waterytacos arent much fun! If possible use paste tomatoes because they have less freewater content.

1 pound tomatoes

2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion2 tablespoons chopped cilantro1 jalapeo or serrano chile, stemmed and minced (seed and devein for amilder salsa)

Juice of 1 lime (approximately 2 tablespoons)Zest of 1 lime (optional)Salt

Dice the tomatoes and put them in a strainer or colander to drain some oftheir water, about 2 minutes. ransfer them to a medium-size bowl.

Add the onion, cilantro, jalapeo, lime juice, and lime zest, if using, and saltto taste. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Te salsa willkeep in the refrigerator for a week or longer, though the onion flavor willgrow stronger.

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SIERRA-STYLE TOMATO SALSA

Salsa Roja de la SierraI love anything that has been cooked over a coal or wood fire. Somehow, evenfood that has been charred in a pan on the stove has a satisfying campfire-likequality. Te authentic texture of this salsa comes from the ingredients beingmashed in a molcajete. Tese stone mortars are widely available in Mexicanmarkets, and in addition to creating a salsa with excellent texture, they doubleas a stylish serving dish. Te cebolletasfound in Mexican markets are similarto scallions, but the white base is a little bulb. Use scallions if cebolletas areunavailable. I use serrano chiles in the recipe because they have a fruitinessbeneath the heat.Note: For a slightly more refined salsa, peel and seed the serranos and tomatoesbefore adding.

1 cebolleta or scallion1 teaspoon olive oil2 small cloves garlic, peeled3 serrano chiles3 medium tomatoes1 teaspoon salt

Preheat a comal, or a medium-size cast-iron pan, over medium-high heat for5 minutes.

In a small bowl, lightly coat the cebolleta with the olive oil to prevent dryingwhile cooking.

On the comal, cook the cebolleta and garlic, turning them frequently untilthey brown lightly. Set aside and let cool. Cook the serranos and tomatoes

until they brown and their skins blister. Set aside and let cool.

In a stone mortar, or food processor or blender, mash or pulse the cebolleta,garlic, and salt until incorporated. Stem and roughly chop the serranos, thenmash or pulse them with the cebolleta mixture.

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4 ACOS

Core and roughly chop the tomatoes, reserving the liquid. Add the tomatoesand liquid to the cebolleta mixture, and mash or pulse to incorporate.

Pour the salsa into a bowl or container. Cover and refrigerate until ready touse. Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for a week or longer, though theonion and garlic flavors will grow stronger.

QUICK TOMATO SALSA

Salsa Rpida de los GuysTis simple and quick salsa always comes through in a pinch. I learned it fromlos guys, my fellow cooks in the kitchen of Gordon Biersch Brewery in PaloAlto, where I worked at the time. For the morning snack, I would usually warma few dozen corn tortillas and make a big pan of scrambled eggs spiked withonions and garlic. One of the prep cooks would throw the salsa ingredients into

a pot of water and cook it up in time to serve with the tacos. Its surprisinglydelicious for being so uncomplicated.

4 medium tomatoes1 small white onion, peeled2 or 3 jalapeo chiles, stemmed

SaltIn a medium-size pot, combine the tomatoes, onion, and jalapeos, andcover them with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, remove the ingredients from the pot and put them ina food processor or blender. Blend until smooth, about 1 minute. Add salt totaste.

Pour the salsa into a bowl or container. Cover and refrigerate until ready touse. Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for a week or longer, though theonion flavor will grow stronger.

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POBLANO AND JALAPEO SALSASalsa de Chiles Poblano y Jalapeo

I first tasted this little gem of a condiment at the fish taco stall acos La ain Ensenada. Fire-roasting the chiles creates an incomparable flavor, elevatingtheir essence while adding a rustic, rancho-style touch. Tis salsa, blendedwith Mexican Crema (see page 10), is alsofantsticoon grilled flap steak andgrilled chicken.

4 fresh poblano chiles1 jalapeo chileOlive oil (if roasting on an electric range)

Light a burner on the stove and set the poblanos directly on the burnergrate, one or two at a time, turning occasionally, until the entire chile is

blackened. (If you have an electric stove, heat a cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. In a small bowl, coat the poblanos lightly with oil and blackenthem in the pan.)

Put the poblanos in a bowl, covered, until cool. Peel the blackened skinsoff the poblanos. Cut the poblanos open and remove the stem and all ofthe seeds. Do not rinse the poblanos in water at any time. Put the poblano

pieces in a food processor or blender.Cut the jalapeo in half lengthwise. Remove the stem and seeds. Chop thejalapeo into chunks and add half of it to the poblanos. Pure until smooth.Add the other half if you desire more heat.

Pour the salsa into a bowl or container. Cover and refrigerate until ready touse. Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for two weeks or longer.

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6 ACOS

CHILE DE RBOL SALSASalsa de Chile de rbol

Te chile de rbol is a workhorse, used throughout Mexico to make fierytable salsas. Te earthy, slightly grassy flavor of these slender, deep red podscombines well with garlic and a touch of salt. Te ensuing blend, a welcomebut not overwhelming splash of fire, is a must in the arsenal of the serioustaco-head. Tey are widely available in Latin American markets and the ethnicsections of supermarkets.

2 ounces dried chiles de rbol (60 to 70 pods)2 cloves garlic, roughly choppedSalt

In a small pot, bring about 2 cups of water to a boil.

Meanwhile, stem the chiles. Using two bowls, break each chile in half androll the pieces between your fingers over one bowl to catch the seeds. Putthe chile pieces in the other bowl, discarding the bowl of seeds. (It isntnecessary to remove every seed; leaving a small percentage wont affect thesalsa.)

Pour the hot water over the chiles until they are just covered. Cover the bowl

with a plate or lid. Let it sit for 30 minutes, stirring once or twice.With a slotted spoon, remove the chiles and put them in a food processoror blender. Pour some soaking water over the chiles until it comes halfwayup the chiles. Add the garlic and salt to taste. Blend the mixture until it is asmooth pure. Te consistency should be slightly thick yet pourable. Addmore water, a little at a time, if necessary.

Pour the salsa into a bowl or container. Cover and refrigerate until ready touse. Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for a week or longer, though thegarlic flavor will grow stronger.

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7

DON FELIX RED SALSASalsa Roja Don Felix

While on a West L.A. taco tour, I got on famously with the cook at CarniceraDon Felix. She even let me hang out in the kitchen. In addition to cuerito(pigskin sauted in lard) and barbacoa(steamed beef) tacos, I had a cabeza(beef head) taco topped with a smacking-hot red salsa. Te seora obliged mewhen I asked what was in her salsa. Here I present my version.

2 ounces driedchiles de rbol(60 to 70 pods) white onion, roughly chopped2 cloves garlic teaspoon cumin seedSalt1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro

In a small pot, bring about 2 cups of water to a boil.

Meanwhile, stem the chiles. Using two bowls, break each chile in half androll the pieces between your fingers over one bowl to catch the seeds. Putthe chile pieces in the other bowl, discarding the bowl of seeds. (It isntnecessary to remove every seed; leaving a small percentage wont affect the

salsa.)Pour the hot water over the chiles until they are just covered. Cover the bowlwith a plate or lid. Let it sit for 30 minutes, stirring once or twice.

With a slotted spoon, remove the chiles and put them in a food processor orblender. Pour some soaking water over the chiles until it comes halfway upthe chiles. Add the onion, garlic, cumin, and salt to taste. Blend the mixture

until it is a smooth pure. Te consistency should be slightly thick yetpourable. Add more water, little by little, if necessary.

Pour the salsa into a bowl or container and stir in the cilantro. Cover andrefrigerate until ready to use. Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for aweek or longer, though the onion and garlic flavors will grow stronger.

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SEVEN CHILE SALSASalsa de Siete Chiles

Tis salsa is so many things at once: rich, tangy, smoky, and sweet. Its evengood on vanilla ice cream. Make this salsa a day or two in advance to allow theflavors to marry completely.

1pasillachile

1 ancho chile1 moritachile2 dried chipotle chiles2 cascabelchiles2guajillochiles2 chiles de rbol cup vegetable oil1 large tomato, finely chopped6 cloves garlic, roughly chopped1 teaspoon finely chopped epazote (optional)1 teaspoon finely chopped cilantro cup cider vinegar teaspoon salt

cup agave nectarOn a comal, or in a medium-size cast-iron pan, over medium heat, lightlytoast the pasilla, ancho, morita, chipotles, cascabels, guajillos, and chiles derbol. Set them aside to cool, then stem, seed, and break them into pieces.

In a medium-size saut pan over medium heat, heat the oil. Ten add thechiles, tomato, and garlic. Cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add

the epazote, if using, and the cilantro and cook 5 minutes longer. Reduce theheat to low and cook 3 minutes longer. Set pan aside to cool.

Pour the chile mixture from the pan into a food processor or blender. Addthe vinegar and salt and blend until smooth. Pour the salsa into a medium-size bowl and stir in the agave nectar until well incorporated. Cover andrefrigerate until ready to use. Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for twoweeks or longer.

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10 ACOS

FRESH TOMATILLO SALSASalsa Fresca de omatillo

If you can get them, use purple tomatillos in this recipe. Since theyre notcooked, they stay purple, a nice visual touch to an already tasty salsa.

1 pound tomatillos, husks removed2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro1 jalapeo or serrano chile, stemmed and minced (seed and devein for amilder salsa)

Juice of 1 lime (approximately 2 tablespoons)Zest of 1 lime (optional)Salt

Dice the tomatillos and put them in a medium-size bowl. Add the onion,cilantro, jalapeo, lime juice, and lime zest, if using, and salt to taste. Mixwell. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Te salsa will keep in therefrigerator for a week or longer, though the onion flavor will grow stronger.

TACO TIPMexican Crema

angy and creamy, its quite different than American sour cream.Combine 1 cup heavy cream and 2 tablespoons buttermilk in a small

bowl. Cover, and put in a warm place for 12 to 24 hours, or untilthickened. Crema will keep in the refrigerator for a week.


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12 ACOS

LA ESQUINA TAQUERAS

GREEN SALSASalsa Verde de La Esquina aquera

Tis creamy and tangy salsa from chef Jose Alvarado of La Esquina in NewYork City accompanies his Pork Loin in Chile Adobo with Grilled Pineapple(see page 55).

5 tomatillos, husks removed, quartered medium white onion, roughly chopped2 jalapeo chiles, stemmed and roughly chopped2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped1 large avocado, peeled, pitted, and roughly chopped2 tablespoons cilantro

1 teaspoon sugarJuice of 1 lime (approximately 2 tablespoons) cup waterSalt

Place the tomatillos, onion, jalapeos, garlic, avocado, cilantro, sugar, limejuice, water, and salt to taste in a food processor or blender and blend untilsmooth.

Pour the salsa into a bowl or container. Cover and refrigerate until ready touse. Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days.

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TOMATILLO AND

CHILE DE RBOL SALSASalsa de omatillo y Chile de rbol

Te tangy flavor of the tomatillos blends very nicely with the earthy piquancyof the chile de rbol. It tones down the heat and makes a salsa that is nearlydrinkable. Roasting the tomatillos on the grill or on a griddle adds flavor andnice little blackened specks to the salsa. Inspiration for this salsa comes from

acomiendo in Culver City, California.

1 pound tomatillos, husks removed1 cup Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6)Salt

Put the tomatillos in a pot with just enough water to cover them. Bring the

water almost to a boil, then turn the heat down to low. Cook the tomatillosuntil soft, about 10 minutes. Dont overcook or they will split. (Alternately,you can roast them on a comal, in a medium-size cast-iron pan on the stove,or on a charcoal grill, until browned and softened, about 10 minutes.)

With a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos to a food processor or blender,reserving the cooking water. Pure until smooth, or just pulse a few times if

you prefer a chunkier salsa. Add a little of the reserved cooking water to thetomatillos if you wish to thin the salsa.

In a medium-size bowl, combine the tomatillos and the Chile de rbol Salsa.Add salt to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Te salsa will keepin the refrigerator for a week or longer, though the garlic flavor will growstronger.

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CHUNKY GUACAMOLEGuacamole Casero

Te velvety richness of avocados (high-oil types such as Haas), flecked withbits of sun-ripened tomato, cilantro, and piquant white onion, guarantees thisguac will be a hit.

2 large avocados, peeled and pitted

2 tablespoons finely chopped white onion2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro1 medium tomato, finely choppedSalt

Put the avocados in a molcajete(a traditional stone mortar), or a medium-size bowl, crushing them with the mano(a pestle), or a fork, until they are a

chunky paste. Add the onion, cilantro, and tomato. Stir. Add salt to taste.Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. If thesurface of the guacamole begins to darken, stir thoroughly before serving.Te salsa will keep in the refrigerator for 1 day.

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AVOCADO AND JALAPEO SALSASalsa de Aguacate y Jalapeo

Im traveling down the California coast on a cold winter night. In Atascaderotheres a little kiosk that has a real trompo, or vertical spit, cooking pork alpastortacos exclusively. Tis avocado salsa catches my fancy. Its both creamyand spicy, the jalapeo and raw onion asserting themselves in perfect balancewith the rich avocado. Prepare it no more than an hour or two before serving,just enough time for the flavors to marry without allowing the avocado to

darken.Variation:For a very hot salsa, substitute a habanero for the jalapeo.

3 avocados, peeled and pitted1 jalapeo chile, stemmed and seeded2 tablespoons minced white onion, dividedSalt

Put half of the avocados into a food processor or blender. Put the other halfof the avocados into a medium-size bowl and mash with a fork.

Roughly chop half of the jalapeo and add it to the food processor. Mincethe other half and add it to the bowl.

Add 1 tablespoon of the onion to the food processor. Add the remainingonion to the bowl. Blend the ingredients in the food processor until smooth,adding small amounts of water until the mixture is just pourable from aspoon. Pour the avocado mixture into the bowl with the other half of theingredients and stir to incorporate. Add salt to taste.

Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. If thesurface of the salsa begins to darken, stir thoroughly before serving. Tesalsa will keep in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days.

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BAJA COLESLAW WITH SHRIMPEnsalada de Col con Camarones

Tis decadent slaw recipe comes from chef Patricio Herrera, teacher of theFood of the Americas curriculum at the California Culinary Academy in SanFrancisco. It could stand alone as a taco filling on a wicked hot summer day. Irecommend serving it as a crunchy, tangy counterpoint alongside any tacos.Note:Other shellfish, such as lobster, crab, or sea urchin, can be substituted forthe shrimp.

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1 teaspoons cumin seeds1 teaspoons mild chili powder7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided5 medium cloves garlic, minced, divided pound raw medium shrimp, peeled and deveined (approximately 15 to 20) cup chopped cilantro, dividedJuice of 3 limes (approximately 6 tablespoons), dividedSaltFreshly ground pepper head green cabbage, cut finely into ribbons

1 jalapeo chiles, seeded and finely chopped3 medium tomatoes, cut into -inch dice3 avocados, peeled, pitted, and cut into -inch dice1 red onion, thinly sliced5 tablespoons red wine vinegar

In a small cast-iron skillet or other heavy pan, toast the cumin seeds andchili powder, stirring constantly, until the chili powder just begins to change

color, about 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately remove from the pan, and let coolon a small plate. Once cool, grind in a small electric spice mill. Set aside.

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In a medium-size saut pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add 1 clove of the minced garlic, the shrimp, 2 tablespoons of the

cilantro, 2 tablespoons of the lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste, stirringfrequently until the shrimp are just cooked through, about 3 minutes. Setaside on a plate to cool. When the shrimp have cooled, chop them into -inch cubes.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the cabbage, jalapeos, tomatoes, avocados,onion, and red wine vinegar; the reserved cumin mixture; the reservedshrimp; and garlic, cilantro, lime juice, and olive oil. Add salt to taste.Refrigerate. Serve chilled.

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TACO TIPLime-Pickled Red Onions

Simple to make, these are an awesome taco condiment. Slice 1 largered onion into -inch thick rounds. Break them up in a medium-sizebowl and mix with 1 tablespoon salt. Let sit overnight. Te next day,

rinse them for about 3 minutes in a colander until they are just slightlysalty to taste. Return onions to a clean bowl and add the juice of

2 limes (about 4 tablespoons). Mix well. Marinate for1 hour before serving.


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WHOLE PINTO BEANSFrijoles de Olla

Beans are a staple throughout Mexico, and the pinto is undoubtedly the mostfamous. While most people know them in their refried form, pintos trulyachieve sublime stature simmered to perfection in this simple broth. Fish themout with a slotted spoon for tacos, or serve them in bowls with some of thebroth for a delicious soupy first course. ender and toothsome, their mild pinkflesh is deeply satisfying.

Variation: o make black beans, omit the bacon and substitute one 6-inchsprig of fresh epazote for the bay leaf.

1 pound dried pinto beans (about 2 cups), picked over3 slices of bacon, or a 4- to 6-ounce piece of pork fat medium white onion, quartered1 bay leaf (optional)Salt

Put the beans in a cazuela(a traditional Mexican clay pot), or a cast-ironor other heavy pot, and cover them with about 3 inches of water. Bring to aboil, then turn off the heat and cover. Let the beans sit for 1 hour, then addadditional water if needed to cover the beans with 2 inches of water.

Meanwhile, fry the bacon over medium heat until it is slightly crispy, about7 minutes. Remove from heat. Break the bacon into pieces and put it andits rendered fat into the pot with the beans. Add the onion and bay leaf, ifusing. Bring to a simmer and cook over medium-low heat, adding water asnecessary to keep the beans covered, until the beans are soft, about 2 hours.Add salt to taste and serve.

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RICE WITH VEGETABLESArroz con Verduras

Rice arrived in Mexico with the Spaniards five hundred years ago and soonbegan its fortunate partnership with beans as the dynamic duo of Mexicancooking (served with corn tortillas, of course). Mixed with butter and fleckedwith peas and corn, this simple rice dish pleases both the palate and the eye.ry it with handmade tortillas and Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6) for a reallyrootsy taco dinner.

2 tablespoons olive oil medium white onion, finely chopped2 cups medium- or long-grain white rice2 cups water2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 to 1 teaspoons salt2 tablespoons unsalted butter cup peas, fresh or frozen cup sweet corn kernels, fresh off the cob or frozen

In a medium-size heavy-bottomed pot, add the oil and heat over mediumheat. Add the onions and rice and saut, stirring frequently, until the onions

have turned lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Add the water, chicken broth,and salt. urn the heat to very low, cover, and cook until all of the liquid isabsorbed, about 20 minutes. urn off the heat and leave the pot covered.

Meanwhile, in a small pan, melt the butter over medium heat and add thepeas and corn, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are heated through,about 5 minutes.

Stir the vegetable mixture into the rice and serve.

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ROASTED POBLANO CHILE STRIPSRajas de Chile Poblano

Deep green with medium heat, the comely poblano chile only gets better whenroasted, which softens the flesh, helps to remove the skin, and concentratesthe flavor, which is as deep as its color. o make roasting and peeling easier,choose poblanos that are as straight and smooth as possible.

2 poblano chiles1 teaspoon olive oil (if roasting on an electric range)

On a wood or charcoal grill, or directly over a medium-high flame on thegrate of a gas range, place the poblanos and cook until the downward sidehas blackened, about 1 to 2 minutes. urn the poblanos and repeat theprocess until all sides are blackened. If using an electric range, lightly coat

the poblanos with the oil and place them in a preheated medium-size cast-iron pan over medium-high heat and blacken each side as much as possible.It may take a little longer than with the other methods of roasting.

Place the poblanos in a small metal or glass bowl and cover until coolenough to handle. Peel the poblanos and discard the skins. Black fleckswill remain on the poblanos; do not rinse them. Ten stem and seed thepoblanos. For a milder flavor, devein them also. ear the poblanos into strips

about -inch wide, place them in a small bowl, and reserve.

o serve, place one or two poblano strips on top of each taco. Refrigerateleftovers in a covered container for up to a week.

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In a large cazuela(a traditional Mexican clay pot), or deep cast-iron orenamel pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and onions,

stirring rapidly so that they stay crunchy, and saut until lightly browned,about 5 minutes. Add the marjoram, peppercorns, cider vinegar, canevinegar, reserved jalapeo water, and salt to taste.

Cover the pot and bring to a boil. Remove the lid, add the reserved jalapeosand carrots, and bring to a boil again. urn off the heat and let cool.

Distribute the jalapeo mixture and cooking liquid evenly between 2

sterilized glass quart jars, packing in the vegetables first, then adding theliquid afterward.

Let the jars sit in the refrigerator for 2 weeks before using. Remove thejalapeos, carrots, and onions as needed to accompany tacos. Tey will keepin the refrigerator for several months.

PICKLED CHIPOTLESChipotles la Poblana

Chipotles are smoke-dried jalapeos. Tis recipe from the Mexican stateof Puebla, adapted from Patricia Quintanas La cocina de Los Angeles, isrefreshingly different from the ubiquitous canned iteration. You can use driedchipotles or moritas, found in Mexican markets or online. Tis recipe calls forpiloncillo, small cones of unrefined solid cane sugar, but you can substitutedark brown sugar if piloncillo is unavailable.Note:Plan ahead when making this dish, as the chipotles need to pickle for atleast two weeks.

One 4-ounce package dried chipotle chiles (about 40 chiles)1 teaspoon salt3 tablespoons olive oil1 large white onion, cut into quarters1 head garlic, skin on, cut in half through the middle of the cloves1 bay leaf

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teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon dried marjoram

teaspoon whole black peppercorns4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into -inch rounds cup cider vinegar4 ounces piloncillo, or cup dark brown sugar, dissolved in cup water

Poke each chipotle several times with a metal skewer or the tip of a sharpknife. In a large pot, cover them well with water and add the salt. Bring thewater to a boil, then turn off immediately, stirring once to make sure the salt

is incorporated into the water. Adjust salt if necessary. Let cool uncovered,then cover and let soak for 1 day. Remove the chipotles with a slotted spoonand reserve them in a bowl.

In a large cazuela(a traditional Mexican clay pot), or deep cast-iron orenamel pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic,stirring frequently, until onions are lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add

the bay leaf, thyme, marjoram, and peppercorns, stirring for 1 minute.Add the reserved chipotles, stirring for 1 minute. Add the carrots, vinegar,and the piloncillo/water mixture.

Bring the contents to a boil, then stir rapidly to break the boil. Repeat twomore times. urn off the heat and let the pot cool, uncovered.

Distribute the chipotle mixture and cooking liquid evenly between 2

sterilized glass quart jars.Let the jars sit in the refrigerator for 2 weeks before using. Remove chipotles,carrots, and onions as needed to accompany tacos. Tey will keep in therefrigerator for several months.

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STRANGE BUT WONDERFUL TACOSWhats the strangest filling that you can imagine going into a taco? Does theidea of eating a beef tongue freak you out? How about a tortilla loaded up withgrasshoppers?

Since the dawn of the tortilla, Mesoamericans have been filling it with justabout everything imaginable. Pre-Hispanic staples included not only numerous

vegetables, herbs, seeds, mushrooms, fish, amphibians, crustaceans, and fowl,but also worms and even a hairless dog called the xoloizcuintle. Many of theseare still sold today, mainly in southern Mexico.

I always try a new taco if I see it on the menu. Tis has led me to order tacosde ojo (beef eyeball), labio (beef lips), cachete (beef cheek), sesos (beef brain),cuerito (pigskin simmered in lard), buche (pig stomach), and birria de chivocon chicharrones (stewed goat with deep-fried pigskins crumbled on topfor

breakfast, no less!).If youre really adventurous, keep an eye out for tacos de trompa(pig snout).Dont mistake them for trompo, which is marinated pork (al pastor) cookedon a vertical spit, a filling with Middle Eastern origins that arrived in Mexicobetween the 1930s and 1950s, depending on what story you believe. Look outfor these other delicacies as well: bofe(lung), oreja(ear), higado(liver), corazn(heart), nana(uterus),pajarilla(pancreas),paloma(dove), machita(lamb tes-

ticle), moronga (blood sausage), and the ingenious combinations of chanfaina(lung, heart, and liver) and nenepil(cheek and uterus).

At acos Beto in Mexico City, the specialty is the taco de cochinada, a termthat translates roughly as filth, and is appropriately composed of remains fromthe bottom of the fryer. Te Web site Chilango.com describes it as a toxic deli-cacy for crude palates. Tere is no underground gourmet that doesnt know thistemple of seedy gastronomy.

As you can see, there are apparently no limits when it comes to taco fillings,so long as the filling can stay inside the tortilla long enough for you to eat it.Unless, of course, youre making a taco denadaa nothing tacoin which caseyou simply warm the tortilla, roll it up, and enjoy!

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TACOS

acos de CanastaScrambled Egg aco with Poblano Strips

Potato and Chorizo aco

acos de CazuelaCoffee and ChileBraised Beef Brisket aco

Beef ongue acoBeef Meatball aco in Guajillo Sauce

La Esquinas Achiote and CitrusMarinated Pork acoLa Esquinas Chicken in omato and Chipotle Sauce

Spice-Rubbed Chicken Tigh acoBraised Chard and Cheese aco

Winter Squash aco with Coriander-Cumin CremaDuck Breast aco in Pumpkin Seed SaucePork Loin in Chile Adobo with Grilled Pineapple

acos al CarbnGrilled Beef Flap Steak acoGrilled Chicken Breast aco

aco El Perrn

acos de SartnBaja Fish aco

Shrimp and Sofrito acoSpiced Ground urkey aco

GarlicWild Mushroom aco with Creamed Corn and Morita Salsa

acos DoradosZucchini and Cheese aco DoradoChorizo and Cactus aco Dorado

Fish and Sofrito aco Dorado

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BEEF BRISKET TACO

aco de Machaca Estilo Momocho

acos de cazuela, their fillings simmered in pots, are widespread throughoutMexico. Often, the cazuela, or pot, is placed on the table, and each personfills his or her own tortillas. Tis recipe comes from Eric Williams, the chefand owner of Momocho in Cleveland and one of the top chefs in the countryexploring modern Mexican cuisine. Tis brisket recipe is easy to make, but the

result is deep and heartwarmingso good, in fact, that you will be happy tohave leftovers. Just reheat some of the meat and liquid and spread it onto a nicepiece of baguette, top with onions and cilantro, and you have an awesome lunchor dinner for the next day. o make ancho chile powder, just break a few driedancho chiles into small pieces and grind them in a small spice grinder.

Corn tortillas

Filling

2 tablespoons ancho chile powder teaspoon ground cinnamon2 tablespoons freshly ground Guatemalan coffee, medium to full roast,or another medium-roasted coffee

3 tablespoons kosher salt; divided2 pounds beef brisket, quartered and trimmed of excess fat cup red wine vinegar cup unseasoned tomato juiceJuice from 2 limes (approximately 4 tablespoons)1 cup red wine tablespoon freshly ground pepper

1 bay leaf medium Spanish or yellow onion, peeled and quartered

Suggested toppings

Fresh Tomatillo Salsa (see page 10)Chunky Guacamole (see page 14)


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BEEF TONGUE TACOaco de Lengua

Strange to some, tongue tacos are standard fare at taqueras. I love the tonguein a spicy tomato sauce that a restaurant in my hometown used to serve. Iveattempted to re-create it here with the Chipotle Salsa Ranchera below. For amild version, warm the diced tongue in Fresh omatillo Salsa (see page 10)instead. For more adventurous eaters, this recipe is the perfect anchor for ataquiza, a taco party.

Corn tortillas

Filling

1 small beef tongue, about 2 pounds1 medium white onion, quartered, divided4 cloves garlic, peeled, divided4 whole black peppercorns1 small bay leaf teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon dried marjoram2 teaspoons salt, divided8 medium tomatoes (about 2 pounds)

3 chipotles en adobo2 tablespoons olive oil

Suggested toppings

Chopped onion and cilantroLimes, cut into wedges

For the filling, in a medium-size pot, put the tongue, 3 of the onion quarters,

2 cloves of the garlic, the peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme, marjoram, and 2teaspoons of the salt, and add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, thensimmer, covered, for 3 hours, turning the tongue over after 1 hours andadding more water as necessary to keep the tongue covered. Let the tonguecool in the broth.

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gSlice through the skin on top of the tongue, lengthwise from base to tip, thenpeel the skin off. Inspect the tongue, especially the underside, and cut offany fat. Chop the tongue into -inch cubes. Put them in a bowl, cover withsome of the broth, and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the Chipotle Salsa Ranchera, on a cast-iron griddle or in a large cast-ironpan over medium-high heat, cook the tomatoes, turning every minute or so,until they are softened and have brown marks, about 5 minutes. Let cool.Meanwhile, roughly chop the remaining garlic. Put the tomatoes, garlic, and

chipotles in a food processor or blender, and pulse until the ingredients areincorporated but still chunky.

In a medium-size pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Finely chop theremaining onion, add to the pan, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.Add the tomato mixture and the remaining salt to the pan and cook overhigh heat, stirring frequently with a metal or wooden spatula until the sauce

thickens, about 10 to 15 minutes. Scrape the pan frequently as the saucethickens to prevent scorching.

o assemble, first heat the chipotle salsa ranchera in a large pot overmedium heat, stirring frequently. Remove the tongue pieces from thebroth with a slotted spoon and add them to the salsa, discarding the broth.Continue cooking for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the meat is heated through.If the sauce thickens and begins to stick to the pot, add a little water tothin it.

Serve on warm corn tortillas, topped with chopped onion and cilantro, withlime wedges on the side.

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GUAJILLO SAUCE

Albondigas de Res en Salsa de Guajillo

I forget how much kids love meatballs until I serve these. Grown-up kids lovethem, too. Use a pan large enough to fit all of the meatballsthey will geteaten. Tis recipe was inspired by and adapted from various recipes in DianaKennedys Te Cuisines of Mexico.

Corn or flour tortillas

Filling

4guajillochiles6 medium tomatoes (about 1 pounds) white onion, cut into quarters

2 cloves garlic2 teaspoons salt, divided cup olive oil1 egg1 pound lean ground beef1 small zucchini, minced (about 1 cup) teaspoon dried oregano

teaspoon freshly ground pepper teaspoon ground cumin

Suggested toppings

Tomatillo and Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 13) pound Cotija cheese, crumbledChopped onion and cilantro

Limes, cut into wedgesFor the sauce, stem, seed, and break the guajillos into pieces. Put them ina medium-size bowl and cover them with boiling water. Cover the bowland let sit until the guajillos have softened, about 30 minutes. Remove theguajillos with a slotted spoon and set aside.

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roast the tomatoes, onion, and garlic, turning them, until they are softenedand have brown marks, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, let coolslightly, and coarsely chop. In a food processor or blender, combine theguajillos, tomatoes, onion, garlic, and 1 teaspoon of the salt, and pulse untilincorporated but still chunky.

In a large pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the sauce and cook,stirring, for 10 to 15 minutes.

For the meatballs, in a small bowl, beat the egg. In a medium-size bowl,combine the ground beef, zucchini, oregano, pepper, cumin, and theremaining salt. Mix well with your hands. Add the egg and continue to mixwith your hands until it is very well incorporated.

Lower the sauce to low heat. With a soup spoon, scoop about 2 tablespoonsof the meatball mix and form into a ball. Repeat the process to make 36balls. Place the meatballs in the sauce, one by one, close together. Spoon

some of the sauce over the meatballs, cover the pan, and cook on low. Stirgently after about 20 minutes, cover the pot again, and finish cooking, about10 more minutes.

Serve 3 meatballs on each warm corn or flour tortilla, topped with omatilloand Chile de rbol Salsa, crumbled Cotija cheese, and chopped onion andcilantro, with lime wedges on the side.

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TACO TIDBITGuisados, or stews, made in cazuelas, are possibly the most

diverse of all the taco fillings. Tey vary greatly from one region ofMexico to another.

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CITRUSMARINATED PORK TACO

Cochinita Pibil Estilo La Esquina

Tis recipe comes from chef Jose Alvarado from New York Citys La Esquina.Tis is one of his favorite tacos. raditionally, this dish is prepared in a pib,or a Mayan pit oven. Here, we use a regular oven, and the process is a bitinvolved, but the results are staggering. Tis is a perfect dish for a big taco partywith friends and family. Te achiote paste and seeds are available in Latin

American markets.

Corn tortillas

Filling

2 tablespoons achiote seeds

Juice of 2 lemons (about 6 tablespoons)Juice of 1 oranges (about 7 tablespoons)Juice of 1 grapefruit (about 11 tablespoons)2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoons balsamic vinegar1 teaspoons plus teaspoon ground allspice2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano teaspoon ground cloves, plus 1 whole clove

2 pounds pork butt meat, trimmed of fat and cut into 2-inch cubes1 small tomato, chopped, plus 1 small tomato, quartered medium yellow onion, chopped, plus medium yellow onion, cutinto -inch slices

5 tablespoons achiote paste1 teaspoons white balsamic vinegarJuice of lime (about 1 tablespoon)

Zest of lime1 clove garlic, minced teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon freshly ground pepper bay leafSalt

Suggested toppings

Pickled Jalapeos and Carrots (see page 23)


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Pickled Jalapeos and Carrots (see page 23)Lime-Pickled Red Onions (see page 18)Shredded green cabbage

For the marinade, in a food processor or blender, combine the achioteseed, lemon juice, 5 tablespoons of the orange juice, 10 tablespoons of thegrapefruit juice, 2 tablespoons of the balsamic vinegar, 1 teaspoons of theallspice, 1 teaspoons of the oregano, and the ground cloves. Blend untilsmooth.

Put the pork pieces in a large pan, pour the marinade over them, andrefrigerate overnight.

For the adobo, combine the chopped tomato, chopped onion, achiote paste,the remaining 2 tablespoons orange juice, the remaining 1 tablespoongrapefruit juice, the white balsamic vinegar, lime juice, lime zest, garlic, theremaining teaspoon allspice, the coriander, the remaining teaspoon

Mexican oregano, the whole clove, and the pepper. In a food processor orblender, blend in two batches until smooth.

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Place the marinated pork butt in a large Dutch oven or other large, heavypot. o finish the adobo, add the bay leaves, the quartered tomato, the slicedonion, the remaining 1 teaspoons balsamic vinegar, and salt to taste. Pour

the adobo mixture over the pork and stir to combine. Heat the pot overmedium heat until the contents come to a simmer. Cover and place in theoven. Braise for 2 to 3 hours, or until the pork is fork-tender. Shred thechunks of meat.

Serve on warm corn tortillas, topped with Pickled Jalapeos and Carrots,Lime-Pickled Red Onions, and shredded cabbage.

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TOMATO AND CHIPOTLE SAUCE

inga de Pollo Estilo La Esquina aquera

Chicken tinga is great for using leftover chicken. At La Esquina, they spit-roast the chicken whole, then shred it and add it to the tomato mixture. Servethe tinga on warm corn tortillas with shredded cabbage, sliced avocado, andchipotle salsa (included here). Tis recipe calls for sweating the onionssauting them covered over low heat until they are very soft.


Filling

2 tablespoons olive oil1 medium yellow onions, cut into -inch rounds, plus medium

yellow onion, diced7 medium tomatoes2 to 4 chipotles en adobo, pured1 pounds chicken, cooked and shreddedSaltFreshly ground pepper1 small clove garlic, minced

teaspoon sugarSuggested toppings

Shredded green cabbageAvocado slices

For the chicken, in a medium-size pan with a lid, over low heat, warm 1tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the onion rounds to the oil, cover, and

sweat them, stirring occasionally until soft, about 20 minutes. Add of thechipotle pure and cook for 30 minutes, covered. Cut 5 of the tomatoes intoquarters and add them to the pan, cooking for an additional 30 minutes.Add the cooked chicken and stir to combine. Simmer until the chicken isthoroughly heated through, about 10 minutes.

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THROWING A TAQUIZAA taquiza is a taco party. In her book Jergas de Habla Hispana, Roxana Fitchdefines a taquiza as a meal based on a great variety or huge quantities of tacos.Sounds good. One example she gives is, Conozco una lonchera aqu cerquitadonde podemos echarnos una buena taquiza, which translates to somethinglike, I know a lunch place nearby where we can throw down a bunch of tacos.

Trowing your own taquiza is fun and fairly easy with some advance plan-

ning. First, choose the number and type of fillings. Cazuela-style fillings (any-thing served in a pot), such as Coffee and ChileBraised Beef Brisket (seepage 33) or Braised Chard and Cheese (see page 48) can be made ahead andreheated in the oven just before serving. Grilled fillings, like Grilled Beef FlapSteak (see page 57) and Grilled Chicken Breast (see page 60), can be cooked toorder. Count on about 2 ounces of meat per taco. You should be safe planningon two or three tacos per person if there are also some side dishes; three or fourif there arent.

Second, make your salsas. You can make as many salsas as you choose, butthe minimum would be one hot salsa (usually a red variety) and one mild (usu-ally tomatillo-based).

Tird, decide on accompaniments. If youre grilling, grilled onionseitherMexican cebolletasor thick rounds of white onionsand jalapeos are a must.

Also mandatory are chopped white onion and cilantro, Pickled Jalapeos andCarrots (see page 23), fresh whole radishes, and lime wedges.Warm the tortillas just before service and place them in a tortilla warmer or

inside a linen cloth in a bowl with a lid. If you are serving flour tortillas, find thesmallest size possible. Tis is a taco party, not a burrito feed! Many places maketheir tacos with double corn tortillasit prevents the tacos from breaking upmidbite. Instruct your guests about this and buy plenty of tortillas.

And dont forget the drinks. Aguas frescas are a must, as is a cooler filledwith Mexican beer and soda pop. Serve the aguas frescas in big glass jars withladles. Make extra to freeze as ice cubes, then add them to the chilled aguasfrescas just before serving.




SPICE-RUBBED CHICKEN

THIGH TACO


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THIGH TACO

aco de Pollo en Recado

Chicken breast always steals the spotlight, but in this recipe, the dark, moistthigh is the star. Rubbed with a Rick Bayless and Yucatn-inspired recado (anachiote-based spice blend) and baked in the oven, the meat falls right off thebone and into your waiting tortilla.


Filling

cup bitter orange juice, or 3 tablespoons orange juiceplus 1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 tablespoon water

2 tablespoons achiote seeds or achiote paste teaspoon cumin seeds teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon dried thyme8 whole black peppercorns3 whole allspice berries teaspoon paprika

4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds2 pounds chicken thighs (about 4 large thighs)

Suggested toppings

Fresh Tomato Salsa (see page 2)Avocado Crema (see page 47)Chopped onion and cilantroLimes, cut into wedges

For the recado, in a food processor or blender, combine the orange juice,water, achiote seed, cumin, oregano, thyme, peppercorns, allspice, paprika,

1.

garlic, and salt. Blend until smooth. Pour the mixture into a medium-sizebowl and stir in the sesame seeds.


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Add the chicken thighs to the bowl, turning to coat them well with therecado. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or ideallyovernight.


In a pot or oven-safe pan with a lid, place the thighs, well-coated with therecado; cover, and bake for 50 minutes. Uncover the pot, raise the heat to

400F, and bake for 10 more minutes, or until the skin is crisp and the meatis cooked through. When checking for doneness, remember that thigh meatis dark, and the meat may appear reddish even when done.

Remove the chicken thighs from the pot and shred the meat. Be sure toinclude the skin. Serve on warm corn or flour tortillas, topped with Freshomato Salsa, Avocado Crema, and chopped onion and cilantro, with limewedges on the side.

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TACO TIPAvocado Crema is a delicious gestalt. Blend one avocado with to 1

cup Mexican Crema (page 10) and serve with your favorite tacos.

BRAISED CHARD AND CHEESE TACOaco de Acelgas con Queso


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g Q

Chard is underrated. It may be unassuming when raw, but when its braised fora long time, it becomes a tender and sublime affair. Melt some cheese over itand you have a delectable taco filling. Deborah MadisonsVegetarian Cookingfor Everyoneinspired my creation of this recipe.

Corn or flour tortillasFilling

2 large bunches chard (about 2 pounds), stemmed (stems reserved) andcut roughly into 1- by 2-inch pieces

1 medium white onion, diced cup cilantro, chopped cup olive oil

teaspoon cayenne (optional) teaspoon paprika2 cloves garlic, chopped teaspoon salt cup water teaspoon freshly ground pepper pound Oaxaca or mozzarella cheese, grated

Suggested topping

Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6)

Chop half of the reserved chard stems into -inch pieces and combine in adeep cast-iron or other heavy pot with the chard, onion, cilantro, olive oil,cayenne, paprika, garlic, salt, water, and pepper to taste. Mix well and cook,covered, over low heat for 45 minutes, adding more water at intervals if

there is less than inch of water on the bottom of the pot.


Uncover the pot and remove it from the heat. Once the steam hasdissipated, stir the vegetables and, with tongs or a slotted spoon, quickly

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2.

3.

transfer the chard mixture to an oven-safe pan or dish. Sprinkle the cheeseover the chard and bake it in the oven until the cheese is melted and lightlyb d b t 5 t 10 i t


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browned, about 5 to 10 minutes.

o serve, remove some chard and cheese with tongs, let drain, and put onwarm corn or flour tortillas, topped with Chile de rbol Salsa.

4.

TACO TIP

During winter, kale is at its peak, sweet and nutritious. Considersubstituting some or all of the chard in the Braised Chard and

Cheese aco recipe with kale.

WINTER SQUASH TACO WITH

CORIANDER-CUMIN CREMA


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aco de Calabaza con Crema MexicanaAfter weve harvested the winter squash in early autumn, our family meal planfills with numerous squash dishes, including our own invention: squash tacos.Teyre rich and nourishing with crema on top. Tink creamy squash soup in atortilla. Te filling gets very little treatment, so use delicata, acorn, or anothersweeter squash. Mash in the roasted garlic and youre ready to go.


Filling

1 acorn squash or 2 delicata squash (about 1 pounds)1 teaspoon olive oil

SaltFreshly ground pepper1 head garlic, skin on, cut in half through the middle of the cloves1 cup Mexican Crema (see page 10) teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground corianderPinch of cinnamon

Suggested toppingsTomatillo and Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 13)Chopped cilantro


Cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Rub the inside and cut edgesof each squash half with the olive oil. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Place the squash on a baking sheet, cut side down, with a garlic piece undereach half. Bake for about 50 minutes, or until soft.

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For the coriander-cumin crema, while the squash is baking, combine theMexican Crema, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon in a small pot and warmover low heat for 10 minutes. Set aside.

4.


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over low heat for 10 minutes. Set aside.

Remove the squash from the oven and let cool slightly. Scoop squash into amedium-size bowl and partially mash with a fork. Squeeze the garlic out ofits skin into the bowl, and mash it into the squash. Season to taste with saltand pepper.

Serve on warm corn or flour tortillas, topped with the coriander-cumincrema, omatillo and Chile de rbol Salsa, and cilantro.

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TACO TIDBITomatillos are not related to tomatoes but to numerous species

of groundcherry in the Physalis family. Tey all have a paperhusk covering the fruits.

DUCK BREAST TACO IN PUMPKIN

SEED SAUCE


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aco de Pato en Pipin VerdePuebla and Oaxaca are famous for theirpipinsand moles. Tese pured saucesrange from fairly simple to quite elaborate. Historically, pre-Hispanic pipins(also spelled pepin) used pumpkin seeds for thickening, though nowadaysthey might contain different seeds or nuts. Tis sauce hits the mark with itspumpkin seed base, drizzled over pan-fried duck breasts.


Filling

10 ounces raw pumpkin seeds, about 2 cups1 cup chicken or vegetable broth, plus more if needed

cup cilantro leaves, plus more for garnish5 serrano chiles, roughly chopped (use less for a milder version)1 medium white onion, roughly chopped1 clove garlic, roughly chopped4 leaves green-leaf lettuce2 tablespoons vegetable oil or lardFive 5-ounce duck breasts, skin on

SaltFreshly ground pepper

Suggested toppings

Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6)Mexican Crema (see page 10)Toasted pumpkin seeds

In a medium-size cast-iron or other heavy pan over low heat, toast thepumpkin seeds until they begin to pop, being careful not to burn them.

For the pipin, in a food processor or blender, combine 1 cups of thepumpkin seeds, chicken broth, cilantro, serranos, onion, garlic, and lettuce.

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2.

Blend until smooth. Add more broth, if necessary, until the blend is easilypourable.


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In a medium-size pan over high heat, heat the oil and fry the pumpkin seedmixture until it bubbles, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes. Remove fromheat.

Heat a medium-size pan over medium-high heat for a few minutes. Whileits heating, season the skin side of the duck breasts with salt and pepper.Place the breasts in the pan, skin side down, and agitate the pan until thefat begins to render so that the skin doesnt stick. urn the heat down

to medium and cook the breasts for 12 to 15 minutes, until all the fat isrendered and the skin is crisp.

Remove the breasts from the pan and pour off the fat. Return the breasts tothe pan, meat side down, and cook for 30 to 45 seconds, until medium rareto medium.

Place the breasts on a cutting board, cut them into medallions, and place the

medallions on warm corn or flour tortillas, topped with hot pipin. Serveimmediately with Chile de rbol Salsa, Mexican Crema, and the remainingtoasted pumpkin seeds.

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TACO TIPNot only is duck breast delicious, but duck eggs are a treat as well.Using them in the Scrambled Egg aco with Poblano Strips (page

30) will yield much fluffier scrambled eggs than can be achieved withchicken eggs.

PORK LOIN IN CHILE ADOBO

WITH GRILLED PINEAPPLE


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Carne Enchilada con Pia AsadaAt La Esquina aquera in New York, chef Jose Alvarado says his CarneEnchilada acos are a favorite among the regulars. Tree types of dried chilesgive the adobo a unique taste. Serve with warm corn tortillas, chopped freshcilantro, grilled pineapple, and La Esquina aqueras Green Salsa.

Corn tortillas

Filling

2 small driedguajillochiles, stemmed1 dried ancho chile, stemmed to 1 dried chipotle chile, stemmed1 clove garlic, roughly chopped1 tablespoon cider vinegar1 tablespoon water1 whole clove, toasted and ground teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground teaspoon sugar

1 plum tomatoSaltFreshly ground pepper1 pounds boneless pork loin, trimmed of most of the fat pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into -inch-thick rounds

Suggested toppings

Chopped cilantro

La Esquina Taqueras Green Salsa (see page 12)Grilled pineapple

In a medium-size pan over medium heat, toast the guajillos, ancho, andchipotle. Put them in a small bowl or pot and pour boiling water over

1.


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GRILLED BEEF FLAP STEAK TACOaco de Carne Asada al Carbn


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Al carbnmeans cooked over charcoal (preferably mesquite). In northern Mex-ico, the meats are usually sliced thin and cooked fast over hot coals, searing inthe juices. Te best carne asada al carbn tacos Ive ever had come from LosAmigos aquera in ecate, Baja California Norte. Tere they serve nothing butasada, with marinated steaks sizzling on the grills, smoke billowing from thestovepipes, and guys whacking the meat into bite-size pieces with a cleaver ineach hand. My inspiration from them: Serve it sizzling hot, right off the grill.Tepreparada(spice blend) Ive included here is based on the one sold at mylocal Mexican butcher shop.


Filling

3 tablespoons paprika teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon dried oregano1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper teaspoon salt2 pounds flap steaks, butterflied, -inch thick

cup bitter orange juice or regular orange juice2 cloves garlic, minced red onion, cut into three -inch-thick rounds6 sprigs cilantro teaspoon olive oil

Suggested toppings

Avocado Crema (see page 47)Roasted Poblano Chile Strips (see page 22)Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6)Chopped onion and cilantroLimes, cut into wedges

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, cumin, thyme, oregano, pepper,and salt.

1.

2.


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On a large plate or baking sheet, pat the steaks dry with a paper towel, thensprinkle them with the spice blend, rubbing the spices into the meat. Put thesteaks into a medium-size bowl and pour in the orange juice. Add the garlic,and mix well with your hands. Break up the onion rounds and tuck the ringsand cilantro sprigs amongst the steaks. Cover and marinate at least 2 hours,preferably overnight. Stir the mixture once or twice while it is marinating.

Over a hot charcoal grill, or a cast-iron griddle or large pan heated for 3

minutes over high heat and coated with the olive oil, place a steak. Cookthe steak for about 2 minutes, then flip and cook for 1 minute, or untilmedium rare.

On a large cutting board, cut the meat across the grain into -inch strips.Ten cut the strips into pieces about inch long.

Serve immediately on warm corn or flour tortillas, topped with Avocado

Crema, Roasted Poblano Chile Strips, Chile de rbol Salsa, and choppedonion and cilantro, with lime wedges on the side.

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TACO TIPWhen choosing fresh chiles for roasting, look for straight, smoothspecimens. Tey are easier to roast uniformly and peel afterwards.


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GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST TACOaco de Pollo al Carbn

D th b d i th t f t B j C lif i N t i ti t


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Down on the border, in the town of ecate, Baja California Norte, is a tiny tacostand called El Pollo Velz. With a mesquite grill, they will school you withtender and juicy chicken breast tacos. Dressed with avocado crema, cilantro,and grilled jalapeos spritzed with lime, this is my tribute to the SpeedyChicken. Look no further for perfection in a taco.


Filling

2 to 3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 pound)1 tablespoon olive oilZest of 1 lemon1 medium clove garlic, minced

Salt and freshly ground pepperSuggested toppings

Avocado Crema (see page 47)Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6)Chopped onion and cilantroLimes, cut into wedges

Lay one chicken breast flat on a cutting board. Place the palm of one handflat on the breast to keep it from moving. With a sharp 6-inch or longerknife, slice horizontally through the breast, creating two pieces of nearlyequal thickness. If the pieces are uneven or more than inch thick, putthem in a 1-gallon plastic bag and pound them with a meat-tenderizingmallet or the bottom of a small cast-iron pan until they are a uniformthickness. Put the breast pieces in a bowl. Repeat the process with the

remaining chicken breasts.

In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, lemon zest, and garlic. Pour the oilmixture over the chicken pieces and swirl them around to coat all sides.Cover the bowl and put it in the refrigerator. Marinate for 2 to 6 hours.

1.

2.

On a charcoal or gas grill over medium-high heat, cook the breast pieces for1 to 2 minutes. Flip them and cook on the other side for about 1 minute, oruntil cooked through. o check for doneness, cut into the thickest piece. If it

is still pink flip the chicken and cook it for an additional 1 to 2 minutes

3.


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is still pink, flip the chicken and cook it for an additional 1 to 2 minutes.

Place the chicken immediately onto a cutting board and slice the pieces into-inch-wide strips. Ten slice the strips into pieces about 1 inch long.

Serve immediately on warm corn or flour tortillas, topped with AvocadoCrema, Chile de rbol Salsa, and chopped onion and cilantro, with limewedges on the side.

4.

5.

TACO TIPo clean dust from larger dried chiles, wipe them with

a slightly moistened cloth. o clean smaller chiles, such as chilesde rbol, place them in a colander, run water over them,

and shake to remove excess water.

TACO EL PERRNaco El Perrn

Following a taco thread on an Internet forum I learned about a killer taco place


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Following a taco thread on an Internet forum, I learned about a killer taco placein Rosarito, Baja California, called El Yaqui. Te taquera serves a legendarytaco calledEl Perrn, or Big Dog, referring to its large size. When we arrivedat 10:30 a.m., they were pumping out the tacos, cooking their arrachera(flapmeat) in big strips. When it comes off the live-oak wood fire, the cooks chopthe meat up and pile it into these massive tacos, which also contain cheese,pinto beans, guacamole, and two salsas. Ask your butcher to cut your flapsteaks into pieces 12 to 18 inches long and about 1 to 2 inches thick.

8 flour tortillas, preferably 8-inch size

Filling

3 tablespoons paprika

teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon dried oregano1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper teaspoon salt1 pound flap steak cup bitter orange juice or regular orange juice

2 cloves garlic, mincedWhole Pinto Beans (see page 19) teaspoon olive oil pound Oaxaca or mozzarella cheese, cut into 16 slices

Suggested toppings

Chunky Guacamole (see page 14)

Fresh Tomato Salsa (see page 2)Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6)

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, cumin, thyme, oregano, pepper,and salt.

1.


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On a large plate or baking sheet, pat the steak dry with a paper towel, thensprinkle it with the spice blend, rubbing the spices into the meat. Put thesteak into a medium-size bowl and pour in the orange juice. Add the garlic,

and mix well with your hands. Cover and marinate, refrigerated, at least

2.


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y , g ,2 hours, preferably overnight. Stir the mixture once or twice while it ismarinating.

Shortly before grilling the meat, warm the Whole Pinto Beans in a pot.

Over a hot charcoal grill, or a cast-iron griddle or large pan heated for 5minutes over medium-high heat and coated with the olive oil, cook the steak

until medium rare, flipping every 2 minutes, about 8 minutes total.

On a large cutting board, cut the meat across the grain into -inch strips.Ten cut the strips into pieces about inch long.

While the meat is cooking, heat the tortillas on a griddle or in a large cast-iron pan over medium heat. Melt 2 slices of cheese on one side of eachtortilla. Place the tortillas on plates, topped with some of the cooked steak,

Whole Pinto Beans, Chunky Guacamole, Fresh omato Salsa, and Chile derbol Salsa.

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6.

TACO TIPA flour tortilla without artificial colors, preservatives, or partially

hydrogenated oils is a healthy base for tacos, burritos, and wraps.One large tortilla can equal up to two servings of grain.

BAJA FISH TACOaco de Pescado

Te principles of perfect breaded fish tacos are clean oil; quality fish; thin,


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p p p q ycrisp, and tasty breading; and killer condiments. Te tacos must also be servedhot from the fryerno sitting around. I prefer to serve the fish on top of theMexican Crema and shredded cabbage for a novel presentation. Use a firmwhite fish such as halibut, orange roughy, or tilapia that will hold togetherduring the breading and frying. Tough not officially a taco dorado, fish tacofrying techniques are similar enough to be placed in the same category.

Corn tortillas

Filling

1 cup flour teaspoon baking powder

teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground pepper teaspoon powdered mustard cup plus 2 tablespoons water cup beerVegetable oil, enough to fill pan to 1 inch deep

2 pounds raw firm white fish fillets, cut into 1-inch-wide stripsSuggested toppings

Mexican Crema (see page 10)Finely grated green cabbageAvocado Crema (see page 47)Fresh Tomato Salsa (see page 2)

Chile de rbol Salsa (see page 6)Chopped onion and cilantroLimes, cut into wedges

In a small bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, oregano, salt, pepper,and powdered mustard until combined. In a medium-size bowl, combine

1.

the water and beer, then gradually whisk in the dry ingredients until justincorporated. Dont overmix.

In a medium-size cast-iron skillet or other heavy pan, fill with oil to 1 inchdeep and heat the oil to 350F. Te surface of the oil will glisten. If it smokes,

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turn the heat down a little.

Holding the fish strips by one end, dip them into the batter, coating lightly,then gently set them into the oil. If

Documents

[Scott Wilson] Tacos Authentic, Festive Flavors