Saudi Aramco World NovDec2014_USA

8/19/2019 Saudi Aramco World NovDec2014_USA

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November/December 201

courts. It dates to about 9700 BCE—before any known agricul-

ture. It is the largest known building of its era.

A meter-wide bench runs around about half its circumfer-

ence, decorated with a wave pattern like that found on stone

artifacts from the site and partly backed by another tier of

seats. A 1.2-meter-deep (4') channel runs its length, flanked at

one end by two stone platforms containing cup-shaped mor-

tars. Close by, archeologists uncovered broken pieces of stone

bowls. There are also postholes in the floor that they say are

likely to have held wooden pillars.

“Whether [the structure] was used for a functional activity

like grinding grain, or some ceremonial purpose such as feasting

or sacrifice, we don’t yet understand,” says Mithen. “But what

is really striking is its age, representing the very earliest period

of the Neolithic.” Although now backfilled for protection from

the elements, the building is still discernible from the depres-sions just beneath the surface of the ground where I stand.

“When we first came here hoping to find a prehistoric site,

ideally of the Neolithic period, other archeologists told us

there was no chance,” Mithen recalls. “They said this region

of the Levant, at the very southern tip of the Fertile Crescent,

was a backwater. They argued that it was all happening in

the Mediterranean lands in the other side of the Jordan Val-

ley near Jericho, or hundreds of kilometers north in Turkey

where Göbeklı Tepe had just been discovered.”

Jericho and Göbeklı Tepe are two of the most important

previously known early Neolithic sites in the wider region.

Jericho, 125 kilometers (75 mi) north of Faynan in the We

Bank, was excavated first in the 1950s by British archeolo

gist Kathleen Kenyon. Discoveries there include an 8.5-me

(28') tower, a massive stone wall and a number of round

structures similar to those now known at Wadi Faynan.

Göbeklı Tepe, in southeastern Turkey, is unique for its elab

rately decorated, rectangular stone pillars—some standing

three meters (10') tall—excavated beginning in the 1990s b

the late German archeologist Klaus Schmidt.

In 2010, the team working at WF16 unearthed remains of what is now Wadi Faynan’s most astonishing discovery: an amphitheater-likebuilding that dates to 9700 BCE, prior to known agriculture. It calls into question the assumption that agriculture brought on higher socialorganization: Was it the other way around? The structure has been covered over to protect it against weathering until it can be studied furt

This artist’s depiction of the round, stone houses at Wadi Faynanits Neolithic heyday appears on a sign at the site. T O

P : B I L L F I N L A Y S O N / W A D I F A Y N A N P R O J E C T


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16 Saudi Aramco World

oxen—not pigs—were butchered, and the Great

Mosque of Xian, both of which are whistle-stops

on tourist itineraries. We also avoided tourist fa-vorites in the old port cities along China’s south-

eastern coast, including the “Cherishing the

Sage” Mosque in Guangzhou (formerly Canton);

the “Sacred Friendship” Mosque in Quanzhou;

the “Phoenix” Mosque in Hangzhou; and the

“Transcendent Crane” Mosque in Yangzhou.

All of these were bestowed Chinese names that

reflected Chinese tenets and myths by their Muslim

founders, who arrived in China via the maritime Sil

Road. Finally, we excluded a third group of well-

known mosques, which serve the Uighur population

The burial sites of men who did much tointroduce Islam to central China in the 18thcentury are marked by pagoda-like structures,such as this one at left, surrounded by buildingsfor worship and teaching, in Linxia, Gansuprovince. Little on the exteriors indicates they arehistoric centers of learning and scholarship.Above: A bas-relief fresco depicts the traditionalcentral Chinese walled building complex.

Minarets of a recently built and stylistically non-Chinese mosque appear downthe street, visible at the left, in Linxia, which once thrived on trans-Asian SilkRoad trade, and which today hosts the largest number of mosques of any city inChina—more than 70, both old and new.


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of Kashgar and other cities of far-western

China and whose architecture has much in

common with mosques in nearby Uzbeki-

stan and other countries to the west.

Far more intriguing to us were the less-well-known, off-the-beaten-track historic

mosques of central and northern China

that adopted, adapted and built upon tra-

ditional Chinese building designs to meet

Islamic needs.

Soon after we met in Beijing, a driver

whisked us off for the western Hebei prov-

ince, northwest of Beijing. Along the three-hour trip, we

caught a passing glimpse of the Great Wall before stoppi

in the city of Zhangjiakou (jang-jea-koo) to visit the Xua

hua (shwen-hwua) North Mosque. There, outside a nearbookshop, a casual greeting of “as salamu alaykum”—

“Peace be with you” in Arabic—was understood with a

smile, and it led to an invitation inside: The place was fil

with Qur’ans, books and calligraphic inscriptions, in Ara

and Chinese, penned by our host. It was clear this would

a richly fascinating trip.

Indeed, traveling exclusively overland for the next two

weeks, we exhausted six different drivers and cars, and rod

one overnight train to climb up through the Yellow River

Valley from Guyuan to Xining (shee-ning) on the Tibetan

Plateau. (See map, p. 19.) In all, we traversed the seven pro

inces of Hebei, Shanxi, Gansu, Qinghai, Shaanxi, Hubei an

Henan as well as the two autonomous regions of Inner Mo

golia and Ningxia—all areas in central, north and northwe

ern China with significant Hui populations.

Many of China’s mosques are said to have long histor

but it is often difficult to ascertain just how old the edific

are. Nobody likes to talk about what transpired during t

Cultural Revolution, which lasted the decade until the 19

death of Chairman Mao Zedong. During that time, the

practice of religion was curtailed, and many religious bu

ings were appropriated and repurposed. In some places,

inscribed stele (upright flat stones), often inscribed in Ar

bic on one side and Chinese on the other, tell the stories

mosques back through the centuries, but much of what rmains dates back no further than the 1700s, and it is oft

overlaid with modern reconstructions, repairs and repain

ing, all of greatly varying fidelity to older designs. Indeed

in Tianshui in Gansu province the Beiguan Mosque was

the midst of just such a renovation.

It was soon after the rise of Islam in the seventh century

that Muslims came to China, mainly as ambassadors or

merchants. They came both by land, along the Silk Roads

through Central Asia, and by sea, over the Indian Ocean v

the Straits of Malacca. Historical sources claim that in 651

an envoy representing the third caliph, Uthman, came to th

Reflected in plate-glass windows retrofitted ontothe porch of the traditional Chinese-style mosque

in Xining, capital of Qinghai province and thelargest city on the Tibetan Plateau, are the domes

and minarets of the nearby, much newermosque built in "International Islamic” style.

The gateway to the complex at Guyuan in Ningxia AutonomousRegion combines typical features of Islamic and Chinese architecturaldecoration: The exterior ornamentation juxtaposes Arabic and Chinesetexts and motifs, incorporating flowers, fruit, birds and real and mythicalanimals, topped with traditionally Chinese, green-tiled roofs with curlingfinials shaped as fantastic beasts.


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While in most of the dry-climate Muslim world, build-

ers favored brick and stone due to the scarcity of wood, in

China timber has always been abundantly available. Tradi-tional Chinese timber-frame construction, whether for pal-

aces, temples or mosques, relied on wooden posts to hold

horizontal beams that in turn supported the rafters and

roof. These elements were joined using a pegged mortise-

and-tenon system with braces, known as bracket sets: No

nails, no screws.

This craftsmanship grew in complexity from the 14th to

the 17th centuries. Simple bracket sets with two or three

layers of “arms” in 14th-century buildings become bracket

sets that clustered in five to seven layers, along nine different

angles, by the 17th century. Eventually, the brackets came so

close together that it can be seen as a Chinese equivalent of

muqarnas, the kaleidoscopic, stalactite-like motif that graces

Islamic architecture from Bukhara to Granada.While wood was the most important material for construc-

tion, brick was characteristically used for the outer, dividing

walls of buildings, and ceramic tile was used for roofing. Al-

though traditional Chinese builders did know and use both arch

es and vaults, they did so mostly for underground tombs, not fo

aboveground architecture.

For Muslims, however, the arch has a particularly religious

significance: Since its introduction in early Islamic times, the

mihrab, or niche in the Makkah-facing wall of a mosque (qibla)

has invariably taken an arched form that appears, with varia-

tions, to this day. Again owing to the dearth of timber in North

Chinese traditional architecture is generally based on timber posts and beams, and it does not normally use arches. An exception is the longassociation of the arch with the mihrab , the niche in the Makkah-facing wall of a mosque, which introduced this otherwise novel shape intoChinese mosques. Left to right: Mihrabs in Linxia (Old Wang Mosque), Tongxin and Dingxiang. Far right: Painted timber beams in Dingxiang.Opposite, lower right and far right: Baoding and Kaifeng (Zhuxian Mosque).


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One of many dishes that evokethe historic reach of Islamic cuisineis tharid , or bread moistened withbroth, right (shown here in a modernvariant with potatoes). By tradition

a dish favored by the Prophet

Muhammad, it became part of thefirst Islamic high cuisine in Baghdad,and also in Muslim Iberia (al-

Andalus), where Christians replacedthe broth with syrup and carried the

dish they called capirotada to theNew World, where it remains

popular today in Mexico, far right.Opposite: An illustrated chronicle of

recipes called the Book of Delights from the late 1400s from Mandu,

India, shows Sultan Ghiyath al-Dinreceiving dishes prepared by his

royal kitchen. Later, the Mughalscreated their cuisine from a confluence

of Persian, Turkic and Indian elements.

WRITTEN BY RACHEL LAUDAN

CROSSROADS

a DIASPORAS THOUSAND YEARS of ISLAMIC CUISINES

aghdad was the “crossroads of the universe,” said the first caliph of the Abbasid Empire whenhe founded a circular city in 762. And so it was at the time: 5000 kilometers (3000 mi) to theborders of China in the east and another 5000 to the Pillars of Gibraltar at the entrance to theAtlantic in the west. By a couple of hundred years later, a single high cuisine had been created in

Baghdad, and following the intertwined Silk Roads and the sea lanes of the Indian Ocean and the Medi-terranean, conquerors, merchants, pilgrims, religious orders and cooks had spread it across this hemi-spheric space. Everywhere the cuisine rested on advances in farming and food preparation and was enjoyed by the elite in prosperous cities . Never static, never homogeneous, always absorbing from andcontributing to other culinary traditions, the earliest Islamic high cuisine was given coherence by a cu-linary philosophy that integrated religious belief with political and dietary theory. Four snapshots ofthe globalization of the cuisine over the past thousand years show how it spread in waves from itsheartland, gaining from and giving to other cuisines of city dwellers, nomads and those of differ-ent faiths until today, when its ripples have touched almost every corner of the inhabited globe.

R I G H T : T O D D C O L E M A N ; F A R R I G H T : I G N A C I O U R Q U I Z A ; O P P O S I T E : B R I T I S H L I B R A R Y / B R I D G E M A N I M A G E S ( D E T A I L )

!


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The staple of Islamic cuisine was wheat bread baked in a pot-

tery oven, above or below ground, called tannur, best known

now by the cognate name “tandoori.” By tradition, tharid —

bread moistened with broth and layered with meat—was the fa-

vorite dish of the Prophet. Flour was used in multiple other ways:

mixed with water and used fresh or dried as pasta; rolled into

dough to stuff with meat; mixed with water to make a soothing

drink; or, in North Africa and al-Andalus, in coarse form rolled

into tiny balls that became known as couscous.

Rich sauces accompanied roasts or bathed stews of lamb, mut-ton, goat, game and poultry, or, in al-Andalus, rabbit. Often these

were sour or sweet-sour. Usually they were aromatized with spic-

es, herbs and essences, seasoned with murri (a condiment made of

fermented barley), colored with turmeric and saffron, pomegran-

ate seeds and spinach, or strewn with sugar crystals that sparkled

in the light. Sikbaj, which appears in all the cookbooks, was meat

of some kind (and later fish) soured with vinegar; harisa (not to

be confused with the Moroccan spice mix) was a puree of grains

and meat; and in al-Andalus, meatballs and stews of mixed meats

were popular. Most prestigious was chicken roasted over a pud-

ding that caught the rich drippings.

Sweet dishes were made with honey where its flavor added

to the dish. Where its aroma and color were not required,sugar was used, retaining the taste of fruit preserves, letting

the rose, green or orange tints of fruit sherbets shine, keeping

sweet starch or ground-nut drinks dazzling white. All could

be scented with rose petals and orange blossoms. Confection-

ers discovered that when boiled for varying lengths of t ime

and then cooled, sugar became successively clear and pliable,

then transparent and hard, and then brown aromatic cara-

mel, opening a myriad of culinary possibilities. Al-Warraq’s

cookbook included recipes for 50 sweets, including pulled

sugar, marzipan in a pastry shell (lanzinaj), syrup-soaked pas-

try fritters or fine white noodles, and pancakes filled with

nuts and clotted cream. Jams, jellies, boiled-down fruit juices

(rubb) and syrups (julab) straddled the boundary between cui-

sine and medicine, as did cooling drinks of sweetened diluted

fruit juices (sherbet) and ground starches or nuts suspended

in water (sawiq), later called horchata in Spanish. Prepared

in extensive kitchens, the elegant meals were taken by caliphs

and other dignitaries in shaded gardens where channels of

water irrigated trees, flowers, fruits and vegetables.

1300: TO THE FAR REACHES OF EURASIA

In 1258, the Mongols conquered Baghdad and toppled the

Abbasid Dynasty while in Iberia Christians pushed back the

Muslim realm to the southern region of al-Andalus. Yet Is-lamic cuisines continued to expand their spheres of influence.

By 1300, they were established in Central Asian cities such as

Samarkand, Bukhara and Merv, as well as in the Delhi Sul-

tanates in India, and they had made their mark in the Mongol

Empire in China as well as in Christian Europe.

In central India, the illustrated Book of Delights, written

in the late 15th century, shows Ghiyath al-Din, the Sultan of

Mandu, in gardens with his female cooks. Recipes for stuffed

pastries (samosa), skewered meats, tender meatballs and re-

freshing sherbets jostle with others for perfumes and aromat-

ics, aphrodisiacs and medicines.

The fine,somewhatfanciful“Eastern” dof the manthe left sidethis 14th-ceItalian illustof sugarcancultivationsuggests the

extent Euroup through1600s,experiencesugar as a product ofIslamic lan

HIGH, LOW an MIDDLING CUISINES

By cuisine, I simply mean a style of cooking. Thi

includes a culinary philosophy or way of thinking

about how food fits into religious or moral,

political, economic, health and environmental

beliefs, as well as specific ways of dining and of

preparing food. Any cuisine has an associated se

of trading and agricultural practices.

“High” cuisines are those of an elite, tradition

perhaps as much as 10 percent of a population.

High cuisines were prepared by male profession

and served in special spaces with elaborate

equipment; they were rich in meat, fat and

sweeteners, and featured sauces and sweets.Most people, however, ate humble or “low”

cuisines based on local ingredients, primarily

grains of one kind or another, eked out with a

few vegetables and the occasional scrap of mea

These meals were prepared by women of the

house, eaten when and where possible, often fro

a communal bowl. They were both more local, in

that they depended on local ingredients, and mo

universal, in that scarcity meant that they were

restricted to a few basic techniques.

In the past hundred years, this sharp division

has been largely replaced by “middling” cuisinwhich show many of the features of high cuisin

but remain accessible to entire populations: Th

American hamburger, with its previously elite

meat and white bread accessorized with sauce

condiments and vegetables, is perhaps one of

most common examples. That the proliferation

of middling cuisines is a historically new globa

phenomenon often makes it difficult for us tod

to understand the cuisines and food economie

of the past. N A T I O N A L L I B R A R Y O F A U S T R I A / A L I N A R I / B R I D G E M A

N I M A G E S ; O P P O S I T E , T O P : T O P K A P I P A L A C E M U S E U M / B R

I D G E M A N I M A G E S ; B R I T I S H L I B R A R Y / B R I D G E M A N I M A G E S

( 3 ) ( D E T A I L S )



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In China, a handsomely illustrated cookbook and dietary

manual, Proper and Essential Things for the Emperor’s Foodand Drink, compiled in 1330 by Hu Szu-hui, the emperor’s phy-

sician in the Bureau of Imperial Household Provisioning, reveals

how the Mongols adopted elements of the high cuisines of their

vast empire as a form of culinary diplomacy. Cooks added an Is-

lamic touch to traditional Mongol soups, thickening them with

aromatic rice or chickpeas, or seasoning them with cinnamon,

fenugreek seeds, saffron, turmeric, asafetida, attar of roses or

black pepper, and finishing them with a touch of vinegar. They

prepared noodle dishes in a creamy yogurt garlic sauce, similar

to those still prepared in Turkey, and stuffed dumplings like the

borek still found in the Middle East. They made Islamic-style

sweets and drinks, in-

cluding fruit punches,

jams, jellies, julabs

and rubbs.

To create this

cuisine, the Mon-

gols drafted Mus-

lims (among others)

to supply the court

with everything

necessary. Muslims

milled wheat flour

and oil, ran sugar

refineries, preparedsweet drinks and

sherbets, and (in

the Persian khanate) worked in the kitchens and experimented

with new varieties of rice. Blue-and-white porcelain became an

export, setting off a craze for the product across the Old World.

Diplomats and cooks moved among the series of khanates in

China, Central Asia, Persia and Russia interconnecting the cui-

sines. Then in 1368, their Chinese empire threatened by unrest

that rebels had been fomenting for several decades and plague in

the southwest, the Mongols went back to the steppes. In China,

the new Ming Dynasty retained little of high Mongol cuisine ex-

cept techniques for candying and sugaring foods, though Mus-

lims, particularly in northwest China, continued to prepare ahumbler Islamic cuisine. Yet round the fringes of the Mongol em

pires, from Russia in the west in a great sweep through to Iran

and Central Asia, steamed stuffed dumplings still tell of the con-

vergence of Islamic and Chinese cuisine in Mongol times.

To the west, Europe was prospering, cities were flourishing,

and great cathedrals were pointing their spires into the sky. Di-

etary theory incorporating Islamic advances reentered Europe in

the late 10th century in Salerno, a small town outside Naples with

a famed medical school, when Constantine the African, a convert

from Islam, translated Arabic versions of Galen. The Regimen

Sanitatis Salernitanum (Salernitan Health Regimen), a translatio

into doggerel verse

of an 11th-century

Arabic medical trea

tise by Ibn Butl of

Baghdad, became

widely disseminat-

ed. The Crusades

of the 11th centu-

ry offered Europe-

ans glimpses of the

glories of Islamic

cuisine. Traders in

Genoa, Barcelona

and Venice madefortunes trading

with Muslims and

further disseminated their dishes. Merchants bought cooking pot

in North Africa and sold them in southern Europe.

The nobility hankered after the scented, colored and

spiced cuisine. Unsure where spices originated, they be-

lieved they hinted of Paradise itself. Although Christians

distinguished their cuisine by the use of pork and the intro

duction of meatless dishes for the many fast days, they also

adapted much of Islamic high cuisine. In Spain, the meat-

and-broth dish tharid became capirotada, and in Sicily,

By the 1600s, Ottoman cuisine in Turkey contributed its partiality for grilled lamb and mutton as well as the novel, ultra-thin dough phyllowhile drawing also on the older traditions of meat dumplings or pastries. This produced the savory borek , which remains popular, in manyvarieties, in Turkish cuisine today.

Chri stian merchants from Genoa, Barcel onaand Venice traded with Islamic l ands andopened another path by whi ch the scented,

colored and spiced cuisine became known tothe nobil ity of Europe.


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In the Americas, the Spanish vice-regal courts consult-

ed Martínez Montiño’s cookbook. Couscous from his rec-

ipe was made at least until the 19th century in Mexico, as

well as a substitute made by crumbling tamale-like steamed

ground maize. A press for making thin noodles was carried

to the Augustinian fortress monastery in Yuriria on what

was then the frontier and is now central Mexico. Pilau rice

and noodles cooked pilau style became known as dry soups

(soups from which all the water had evaporated). Spicy

stews and albóndigas remained popular while capirotada

lost its meats and became a sweet Lenten dish. Local fruits,

such as guavas, cherimoyas and mamey sapote were substi-

tuted in fruit pastes and sherbets. Housewives reproduced

the soothing grain and nut drinks, now known as horchata,

with rice or a variety of local alternatives.

From Mexico and from Portuguese Goa in India, nun

introduced confectionery techniques to the Philippines a

South and Southeast Asia. When Jesuit missionaries en-

tered Japan, they used the savory and many of the sweet

dishes of southern Europe—and thus of Islam—as entice

ments to and evidence of conversion. In the Southern Ba

barian’s Cookbook, a Japanese manuscript compiled in

the early 17th century, a recipe for fried fish appears tha

would eventually evolve to become tempura, as well as c

fections that became known in Japanese as kompeito fro

the Portuguese comfeito (comfit).

Back in Europe, cooks from the south, such as the Por

tuguese “chief counsellor” to ladies-in-waiting who wan

ed to make “delicate dishes” at the court of Queen Eli za

beth I of England, introduced elaborate confectionery to

the north. Expensive

sugar work, some of

designed to look like

savory food, such as

marzipan hams, sug

paste bacon, and egg

of yellow and white

jelly became fashion

able, served in specia

“banqueting houses” the grounds of noble

mansions.

Other Islamic ele-

ments took on their o

life. Fried fish preserv

in vinegar appears in

1796 edition of Hann

Glasse’s Art of Cooke

popular in England an

the US. As for the gelle

juices that surrounded

The bustle of another Ottoman coffeehouse, left, echoes in today’s global coffee franchises, right, which carrynot only the beverage but also the original cultural associations with an urban, educated intelligentsia.

English artist Thomas Allom depicted this Istanbul coffeehouse, left, in 1838, by which time coffee had grown popular throughout Europe,including Vienna, where today's Cafe Central, right, evokes a similar elegance.

F R O M T O P : B R I T I S H L I B R A R Y / B R I D G E M A N I M A G E S ( D

E T A I L ) ; A R T U R O P E N A R O M A N O M E D I N A / T H I N K S T O C K / G E

T T Y I M A G E S ; K I M B E R L E E R E I M E R / T H I N K S T O C K / G E T T Y I M A G E S


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cold fish in vinegar, they entered European languages as aspic,

still the word for a savory gelatin to encase cold dishes in highFrench cuisine. And julep, which the English had used for a me-

dicinal syrup since the Middle Ages, became the “mint julep”

of the American south.

More recent elements appeared too. In the 18th centu-

ry, coffee vendors, often kitted out in Turkish garb, offered

their wares, and coffeehouses became important centers

of commerce and politics. Travelers to the Middle East re-

turned with packages of the new starch-based sweet that

they ca lled Turkish delight.

2000: ISLAMIC CUISINES IN A GLOBALIZING WORLD

In the 19th and 20th centuries, the expansion of the British,

French and Russian empires, the contraction of the Ottoman and

Mughal empires, and the subsequent breakup of the European

empires rewrote

political boundar-

ies across Islamic

lands more than

once. The global-

izations of high

French cuisine

among the inter-

national elite and

of middling Anglocuisine among the

urban middle class—

the latter much in-

fluenced by the new principles of home economics—were deeply felt.

As new nations were created, many households were acquir-

ing gas or electric stoves and, later, electric gadgets that re-

duced the time and labor required for complex dishes. Al-

though many still ate (and eat) humble cuisines that depend

on bread for most of their calories, middling cuisines were

on an unprecedented rise. Muslims continued to be unit-

ed by Ramadan and by the Hajj, or pilgrimage to Makkah.

Newspapers, magazines and radio programs began to offer

suggestions for dishes for Ramadan and other importantfestivals. Inexpensive air transport made Hajj easier. New

cookbooks were written, earmarking dishes that once had

been common across the broader region as more narrow-

ly “national,” and introducing western dishes as well as the

writing of recipes to reflect the scientific precision advocated b

the home-economics movement, such as Ayşe Fahriye’s 1882

Ev Kadini (Housewife) in Turkey or the Usul al-Tahi (Princi-

ples of Cookery) of the early 1940s in Egypt by Nazira Nikola

and Bahiya Othman, which published its 18th edition in 1988

By the 1980s, the emphasis had shifted to the preserva-

tion of traditional dishes. In 1980 a group of professional

cooks and housewives authored the Qamus al -Tabkh al-

Sahih, offering traditional recipes of the region. Others

followed, such as the 1990 Dalil al -Tabkh wa’l-Aghdhiya

(Guide for Iraqi Cooking and Baghdadi Dishes) by Naziha

Adib and Firdaw

al-Mukhtar, and

the Min Fann al-

Tabkh al-Sa’di by

Zubayda Mawsi-

li, Safiyya al-Su-

layman and Sami

yya al-Harakan,

which was de-

signed to preservtraditional Saudi

cuisine in the fac

of an influx of

foreign dishes. Similarly, where once it had seemed that a tide

of hamburger joints would sweep all before them, new out-

lets for traditional foods appeared and elegant confectionery

shops held their own.

Farther afield, Latin American cuisines still show signs

of the cuisine of medieval al-Andalus in their rice, their fruit

drinks, their sweets and their complex spicy stews such as

mole poblano, now widely taken to be one of the national

The Abbasid vinegared fish dish sikbaj continued to evolve through medieval Spain into modern times, where it appears in varieties as distinctas cebiche , left, the signature dish of Peru and also popular throughout Latin America, and fish and chips, center, the signature dish of working-class Britain. Both are examples of high cuisine that was adapted by local tastes and resources to become popular, commonly available, middlincuisine. Right: On the other hand, aspic maintains haute cuisine status. Its name probably evolved from the Arabic word for the jelly that setsaround vinegared fish, and today it is a flavored gelatin used to coat either fish or meat in French cooking.

Where on ce it had seemed that a tide of ham burger jo in tswould sw eep all before them, beginnin g in the 1980s new out-lets ap peared for traditional Islamic, Arab, Middle East-

ern, Turkic, Persian and other foods with Islamic roots.


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dishes of Mexico. The similarities among Mexican rice, al-

bondigas and mole poblano and Indian pilaus, meatballs and

curries are clear signs that point toward common roots.

Centuries-long influences continue in other parts of the

world, often unrecognized. In the late 19th century, the dis-

tant descendant of the fried version of sikbaj became the fish

and chips that sustained the British working classes and be-

came regarded by the rest of the world as Britain’s national

dish. In the 20th century, the vinegared version of cebiche

became the signature dish of Peru. The starch- or nut-thick-

ened drink remains popular among Spaniards in horchat-

erias in Spain, is prepared in households in Nigeria and is

popular across Latin America. Coffee shops, now often run

as global brand franchises, continue to be places for eco-

nomic and political discussion from Japan to Brazil, and

everywhere they carry a connotation linking them to their

roots among the intelligentsia.

Migrations at the turn of the 20th century and more re-

cently have added newer Islamic dishes to the older me-

dieval ones. Street stands selling meat from rotating spits

served with bread and yogurt sauce are rife in Europe as

döner kebab and are generally associated with the MiddleEast, while in Mexico, without the yogurt sauce, they have

become assimilated as shepherd’s tacos (tacos al pastor). Ke-

babs on a skewer and stuffed vegetables both carry the same

message, as does Turkish Delight, baklava and the prolifera-

tion of the date industry. Couscous has become a staple in

France; yogurt, in sweetened form, has become a standard

breakfast or snack in Europe and across the Americas.

In Europe and the Americas, restaurants feature Leba-

nese, Persian, Mediterranean or “Indian” (where Indian

should more properly be understood as referring to the

subcontinent rather than the nation) food with dishes

from the Islamic tradition. In China, where Muslims, al

though found in all regions, are clustered in the north-

west, migrants to other cities offer street stalls selling no

dle dishes. Cookbooks in many languages, often written

by migrants, teach readers how to prepare Middle Easte

Turkish, Persian, Arabian, North African and Mughal c

sines—or at least a version the authors believe will appe

to their audience.

In the 1930s, Maxime Rodinson, Daub Chelebi and A.

Arberry directed the first serious scholarly attention to me

dieval Islamic cuisines. Since then, scholars have traced th

origins and development of Islamic cuisines, reprinted coo

books in Arabic, translated them into English and Spanish

and offered modern versions of recipes that date back to m

dieval times. It is thanks to these scholars, and evidence o

the public interest that the long history of Islamic cuisines

evokes, that it is now possible to write this brief overview

of Islamic cuisines and their global role. And to recognize

this: that the mint julep of the American south and the gu

jamun of India; the curries of Mughal India and the mole

Mexico; and the glittering aspic of French haute cuisine, t

tart cebiche of Peru, and the humble fish and chips of England all share a thousand-year-old taproot.

Flavorful global Islamic influences appear also on tables as distant as those in Puebla, Mexico, famous for its mole sauce, left, and others inIndia—and restaurants worldwide—where chicken curry is one of India's most popular dishes derived from the Mughal-style cuisine that haroots reaching back to Persia and Baghdad.

Rachel Laudan ([email protected]) is a visiting sc

ar in the Lozano Long Institute of Latin American Studie

the University of Texas at Austin and author of Cuisine

Empire: Cooking in World History (University of Califo

Press, 2013).

Related articles at www.saudiaramcoworld.com

Puebla, Mexico: J/F 10 Kitab al-Tabikh: J/A 06

Mexican cuisine: M/J 04 al-Andalus cuisine: S/O 89

K E V I N B U B R I S K I / S A W D I A ; S T O C K F O O D / L I P ; O P P O S I T

E : C A R L O S M O R A / A L A M Y ; F O T O M A T O N / A L A M Y ; H A Y T H A M

P I C T U R E S / A L A M Y

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segment that relate to each of the

themes, highlight them in the appropriate

color. When you’re done, compare your

highlights with another student’s. Continue

with the next three segments in the same

way. By the time you’re done, you should

have a brightly colored version of the

article, with the key themes identified ineach of the four sections.

3. Owning What You’ve Read

Once you’ve read the article, how can you

make sure you really know what it says,

that you “own” the content? One way is

to write a summary of it. Your summary

should include the main idea, the four time

periods and a brief statement about how

the themes play out over time.

Another way to own the material in

the article is to reorganize it, to be sure

you would understand it even if it were

presented in a different way. If you can

talk about the content from more than

one perspective, you really must know it!

Choose one of the article’s themes—say,

the connection between high cuisine,

religious belief, and political and dietary

theory—and write it on a sheet of paper.

Then go through the article and re-read

what you’ve highlighted for that theme,

making notes about it on the page

where you’ve written the theme. What

does each segment include on thattheme? Looking over your notes, write a

one-sentence summary of the material

related to the theme. You can try this

with the other themes—and then you’ve

got another tool you can use to get

more from other things you read.

Global and Local

Saudi Aramco World often has articles

about cultural migration and diffusion.

These articles examine how elements

of a culture—for example, language or

religion—spread from one part of the

world to another. How, for example,

did Islam spread from the Arabian

Peninsula to other parts of the world?

What happens when that cultural

element “goes global”? What happens

as it reaches different locales? Both

“Crossroads and Diasporas” and “The

Back-road Historic Mosques of China”

look at how elements of culture—in

these cases, food and architecture—

spread. Read the articles, or if you

prefer, you can focus on just one

article, or have half the class read one

article and the other half read the other.

“The Back-road Historic Mosques

of China” is based on three writers’

search for little-known mosques. What

did they find? As you read the article,

make two lists. In one, write down what

the authors found that was similar to

mosques in other parts of the world. In the

other, list what they found that was unique

to China’s mosques. What do you notice

about the similarities and differences

between Chinese mosques and mosques

elsewhere in the world? Write a brief

answer to the question.

If you haven’t already read “Crossroads

and Diasporas,” do so now. For each of the

four “snapshots,” make notes about Islamic

cuisine. Your notes can take whatever form

you find most useful. You might want to

make lists, as you did regarding China’s

mosques, only in this case you might

list different versions of some common

food and the places with which they are

associated. Or you might make your notes

on a map so that you can see the locations

that the article identifies and how the foods

changed as they entered the cuisine in each

different place. Or you might prefer to m

a flow chart that shows the acceptance

of different types of food from place to

place. Whatever method you choose, use

your notes to make a statement about

high Islamic cuisine over the past 1000

years. Compare your statement with thos

of other students. Have you understood

the article in similar ways? If not, discuss

discrepancies and be sure you’ve got a g

understanding of what you’ve read.

Looking at your statements about

architecture and food, what general

statement can you make about what

happens to a locality’s food or architectu

when it is touched by food or architectu

from another part of the world? And wh

happens to food or architecture when it

leaves the place it originated? What do y

understand about cultural migration now

that you didn’t understand before?

IF YOU ONLY HAVE 15 MINUTES

Try one of these two exercises.

1. One of the questions you probably as

lot at school is why a certain topic or piec

of information is important. To put it blun

you’ve probably asked, more than once,

what?” The question may sound insolent

but it’s really an excellent question—and you can answer it, it makes whatever you

studying become meaningful. If you only

have 15 minutes, read “Jordan, Long Bef

Petra.” Archeologists have uncovered

evidence at Wadi Faynan that suggests th

ancient history may be very different tha

they had thought before. In what two wa

might it be different? Locate and underlin

the sentences in the article that state wha

the two ways are. Then ask the “so what

question. Talk with other students, or wri

your own thoughts about why these two

insights are important. Share your thoug

with the rest of the class.

2. Read the sidebar article on page 29,

“High, Low and Middling Cuisines.” Ma

sure you understand what constitutes ea

type of cuisine. Think about your own

culture’s foods. Come up with examples

each type of cuisine that are part of you

locale’s foodways. Share your examples

with the class. Be prepared to explain

why you have identified each food item

as part of the cuisine with which you ha

associated it. Make a menu based on on

level of your cuisine, and compare it wit

menus that other students have made. Dyou agree about what constitutes high,

middling and low cuisines?



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commemoration of, and communica-tion with, the dead and different concep-tions of the soul in ancient Egypt, Iraqand Israel/Palestine. Oriental InstituteMuseum, Chicago, through January 4.

Arts of Islamic Lands: Selections fromthe al-Sabah Collection, Kuwait, comesto the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston(MFAH) as a part of a longer-term collabo-ration with the cultural institution Dar al- Athar al-Islamiyyah. Founded by SheikhNazzer Sabah al-Ahmed al-Sabah and hiswife, Sheikha Hussah Sabah al-Salem

al-Sabah, this is one of the greatestcollections of Islamic art in the world.It contains spectacular Mughal jew-elry, illuminated manuscripts, exquisiteceramics and decorated ceiling panelsfrom the eighth to 18th century, fromthe Iberian Peninsula and North Africato the Middle East and Central Asia.MFAH, Houston, through January 4.

L’avenir (Looking Forward) showswork by 50 artists and collectives from22 countries as BNLMTL 2014—La Bien-nale de Montréal. It combines a multi-site venue, a series of performances,film screenings, talks, tours, publica-tions, conferences and other specialevents at the Musée d’art contemporainand other cultural institutions and pub-

lic spaces throughout the city to exam-ine how contemporary artists give form tothe question, “What is to come?” Multiplelocations in Montréal, through January 4.

Assyria to Iberia at the Dawn ofthe Classical Age. At its height inthe eighth to seventh century BCE, theAssyrian Empire was the dominant powerof the ancient Near East and the largestempire the world had yet seen, reach-ing from Assyria (present-day north-ern Iraq) to the Mediterranean. Thislandmark exhibition traces—throughsome 260 works of art on loan—thedeep roots of interaction between theancient Near East and the lands alongthe shores of the Mediterranean andtheir impact on the artistic traditions that

developed in the region. Parallels arealso drawn between works in the exhibi-tion and those in the museum’s perma-nent collection of ancient Near Easternart. Metropolitan Museum of Art, NewYork, through January 4.

Nach Ägypten!: Die Reisen von MaxSlevogt und Paul Klee. Although nearly15 years separated the travels of impres-sionist Max Slevogt and painter PaulKlee to Egypt, with the former set-ting out in 1914 and the latter makinghis journey in 1928, Slevogt’s impres-sions of Egypt motivated Klee’s modernnotion of painting. The exhibition, trans-lated, “To Egypt: The Travels of MaxSlevogt and Paul Klee,” is the first tofocus on the work of these two artiststogether—through the use of 130 paint-ings, watercolors and drawings arising outof the context of these trips and illustrat-ing the breaks of transition from impres-sionism to classical modernism. KunstSammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen, Düs-seldorf, through January 4.

Proposals on Monumentality. In “Mon-umental Seduction” (1996), AndreasHuyssen suggested that historical,esthetic and national contexts, along withpolitical and cultural effects, dominate ourunderstanding of the monumental, artic-ulating the issue of the monumental inrelation to memory and modernity. Bring-ing together the works of Aslı Çavuşoğlu,

Iman Issa, Christian Jankowski, AminaMenia, Seher Shah and Santiago Sierra,“Proposals on Monumentality” attemptsto twist and open up our perception ofmonumentality along with the complexdynamics of commemoration, space andpower. Curated by Ī pek Ulusoy Akgül,the exhibition poses a set of questions:Can monuments go beyond representingthe past and evoking collective memory?Is it possible for them to resist absorp-tion into memorial narratives? How canmonuments express fragmentation andforgetting? Green Art Gallery, Dubai,

through January 4.

Wael Shawky: Cabaret Crusades marksthe Egyptian artist’s first major museumexhibition in Germany. Relying on themesused in three of his most recent films,“Cabaret Crusades” confronts the com-plex mechanisms driving the construc-tion of history. The employment of 24Italian-made marionettes with exagger-ated features to reflect traditions passeddown by Muslim storytellers of war-ring crusaders mixes the fantastic withthe heartache of reality. The effect isa reminder to audiences that no onehas a monopoly on historical perspectivewhen memories, legends and myths areevoked through multiple voices. KunstSammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen, Düs-

seldorf, through January 4.

The Sacred Lute: The Art of OstadElahi focuses on the renowned Per-sian musician, thinker and jurist (1895-1974) whose transformative work inthe art of tanb ūr —an ancient, long-necked lute—paralleled his innovativeapproach to the quest for truth andknowledge. It documents the inter-dependent, mutually transformativerelationship between player and instru-ment through a presentation of nearly40 rare instruments and works of artfrom the Elahi collection, the Muséede la Musique, Paris, and the Metro-politan Museum. It includes rare tan-burs that belonged to Ostad Elahi andhis father, who was also a great tan-

bur player; a number of his personalpossessions, such as his judicial robesand a selection of manuscripts; andsymbolic items that provide greaterinsights into his disciplined approachto life. Metropolitan Museum of Art,New York, through January 11.

Roads of Arabia: Archaeology and His- tory of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Aneye-opening look at the largely unknownancient past of the Kingdom of SaudiArabia, this exhibition draws on recentlydiscovered archeological material neverbefore seen in the US. “Roads of Arabia”features objects excavated from sev-eral sites throughout the Arabian Penin-sula, tracing the impact of ancient traderoutes and pilgrimage roads stretch-ing from Yemen in the south to Iraq, Syriaand Mediterranean cultures in the north.Elegant alabaster bowls and fragile glass-ware, heavy gold earrings and Hellenisticbronze statues testify to a lively mercan-tile and cultural interchange among distantcivilizations. Asian Art Museum of SanFrancisco, through January 18.

The Future of Fashion is Now takesthe visitor on a trip around the mostinnovative fashion from all over theworld, with works by such design-ers as Viktor&Rolf (the Netherlands),Rejina Pyo (Korea) and Hussein Chalayan(Cyprus). The exhibition examinesthe critical stance that young fashion

designers worldwide are adopting withregard to “the fashion system” and therole of clothes in contemporary soci-ety. Designers with non-western back-grounds and from countries borderingEurope, where until recently there waslittle or no tradition of fashion, are activelyseeking to transform the fashion sys-tem. The exhibition is the sequel tothe successful exhibition “The Art ofFashion” staged in Rotterdam in 2009.Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen,Rotterdam, through January 18.

Into India: South Asian Paintings fromthe San Diego Museum of Art uses min-iatures to explore art produced by Per-sian, Central Asian and European leadersand merchants who settled in India fromthe 12th to 19th centuries. The exhibitionpresents more than a hundred illumina-tions of Buddhist, Jain and Hindu manu-scripts that illustrate sacred Indian texts,books of Persian poetry and albums docu-menting the life of the glittering Mughalcourt or the indigenous flora and fauna,revealing the remarkable ability of Indianartists to adapt their styles to satisfy thetaste of the foreigners who dominatedIndia while maintaining a specificallyIndian quality. Musée national des beaux-arts du Quebec, through January 18.

Medieval Morocco: An Empire fromAfrica to Spain. From the 11th tothe 15th centuries, a succession ofdynasties—Almoravid, Almohad andMarinid—fashioned a political and civ-ilizational space centered on Moroccoand stretching to Andalusia. Their con-quests took them from the southernedge of the Sahara (northern fringe ofMauritania) to the northern reaches ofAlgeria and Tunisia. This empire’s influ-ence, unifying for the first time thewestern Islamic world, was felt as faras the Near East. Musée du Louvre,Paris, through January 19.

Treasures from India: Jewels fromthe Al-Thani Collection includes some60 jeweled objects from the private

collection formed by Sheikh Hamadbin Abdullah Al-Thani, offering a glimpseinto the evolving styles of the jeweledarts in India from the Mughal perioduntil the present day, with emphasison later exchanges with the West.Metropolitan Museum of Art, NewYork, through January 25.

Current FebruaryFrancesco Clemente: Inspired by India examines the Indian influences in Clem-ente’s work and how they relate to theartistic traditions and practices of vari-ous regions of India. In contrast to lead-ing conceptual artists’ practices of the1970s, Clemente focused on repre-sentation, narrative and the figure andexplored traditional artisanal materialsand modes of working. The exhibitionincludes some 20 works, including paint-ings from the past 30 years and four newlarger-than-life sculptures. Rubin Museumof Art, New York, through February 2.

The Landscapes of India: MiniaturePainting from the Mughal Era revealsthe scope of landscape tradition inIndian painting. At the same time, theminiatures in this display represent across-section of northern and centralIndian schools of painting from the 16ththrough the 19th century. While abstractimagery—particularly with regard tonature and landscape—was visible inRajput schools of painting into the 19th

century, the European influence onMughal painting reveals an unmistanaturalism, thereby affecting the Rajpschools in turn. Museum für AsiatisKunst, Berlin, through February 8.

Cairo to Constantinople: Early Phtographs of the Middle East. In 18the Prince of Wales (later King EdwVII) embarked on an educational tothe Middle East, accompanied by tBritish photographer Francis BedfoThis exhibition documents the jourthrough the work of Bedford, the fi

photographer to join a royal tour, aexplores the cultural and political snificance Victorian Britain attachedthe region. The display includes arological material brought back by tprince, including an Egyptian papyinscribed with the Amduat, a memtext that describes the journey thrthe underworld of Re, the Egyptiansun god. The Queen’s Gallery, Bucingham Palace, London, through Fruary 22.

Current MarchThe Lost Dhow: A Discovery from Maritime Silk Route. In 1998, an Araship carrying goods from China was dcovered at the bottom of the IndiaOcean off Belitung Island, Indonesia

Dating from the ninth century (ChinaTang Dynasty), the Belitung shipwreis the earliest Arab vessel of this perto be found with a complete cargincluding silver ingots, bronze mirrspice-filled jars, intricately workedvessels of silver and gold and thousands of ceramic bowls, ewers andother vessels. Uncovering its mysterious origins reveals the interconnections between two great powers, thTang and Abbasid empires. The exhtion prov ides the earliest evidence maritime silk route—and speaks to vibrant exchange of ideas and techngies between peoples that occurred turies before the Portuguese enteredregion in the late 15th century. Aga Museum, Toronto, through March

Mshatta in Focus: The Jordanian Dert Palace in Historical Photograph

The richly decorated façade of thearly Islamic desert palace of Mshwas presented as a gift from the Oman sultan to the German empero1903, when it was transported frothe Jordanian desert to Berlin, whit now forms the centerpiece of tMuseum für Islamische Kunst’s clection, on show in the Pergamonmseum. Its accession history began wa series of photographs of the façawhich circulated among Europeaarcheologists and art historians arouthe turn of the century and evenally landed in the hands of Kaiser Whelm II. Photographic records weremade at several key moments in recent history: before and during tfaçade’s dismantling, after the struture was hit by a bomb during WoWar II and during its subsequenrestoration in the 1950s. Pergamomuseum, Berlin, through March 1

Grand Parade: A Unique Art Installation by Jompet Kuswidananto. ThIndonesian artist makes a unique psentation of his famous groups ofparade figures. Rather than being rspective of individual works, it servas a new art installation, conceivedas a dynamic whole. The assemblylife-size mechanical figures within t O

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the MFA and Harvard University. Datingfrom 1700 BCE to 300 CE, the jewelsinclude both uniquely Nubian and for-eign imports, prized for their materials,craftsmanship, symbolism and rarity.MFA, Boston, through May 14, 2017.

Unearthing Arabia: The Archaeolog- ical Adventures of Wendell Phillips. Wendell Phillips headed the larg-

est archeological expedition to SouthArabia (present-day Yemen) from1949-1951. Accompanied by leadingscholars, scientists and technicians,Phillips was on a quest to uncover twoancient cities—Tamna, the capital ofthe once-prosperous Qataban king-dom, and Marib, the reputed homeof the legendary Queen of Sheba—that had flourished along the fabledincense road some 2500 years ear-lier. Through a selection of unearthedobjects as well as film and photog-raphy shot by the exhibition team,the collection highlights Phillips’skey finds, recreates his adventuresand conveys the thrill of discovery onthe last great archeological frontier.Sackler Gallery, Washington, D.C.,through June 7.

India: Jewels That Enchanted the Worldexamines the legacy of 500 years ofIndian jewelry, from the 17th century tothe present. More than 300 pieces ofjewelry and jeweled objects are broughttogether for the first time to showcasethe beauty of Indian craftsmanship, themagnificence of gemstone setting andthe refinement of Indian taste. Assem-bled from more than 30 museums,institutions and private collections,the exhibition is the most compre-hensive ever staged on the subject.State Museums of Moscow, Kremlin,through July 27.

Beyond Bollywood: Indian AmericansShape the Nation elaborates on the his-tory and contemporary experiences ofIndian Americans as they have grownto be one of the more diverse andwell-recognized communities in theUS. Photographs, artifacts, videosand interactives trace their arrival andlabor participation in the early 1900s;their achievements within various

economic industries; and their manycontributions in building the nation.The exhibition also reveals how theyhave kept and shared their cultureand organized to meet the needsof the under-served. Asian PacificAmerican Center, Washington, D.C.,through August 26.

Chief S.O. Alonge: Photographer tothe Royal Court of Benin, Nigeria show-cases the photographs of Chief Solo-mon Osagie Alonge (1911-1994), oneof Nigeria’s premier photographers andthe first official photographer to theRoyal Courts of Benin. Alonge’s his-toric photographs document the ritu-als, pageantry and regalia of the courtfor more than a half-century and pro-vide rare insight into the early historyand practice of studio photography inWest Africa. National Museum of Afri-can Art, Washington, D.C., throughSeptember 13.

Coming November “The Invisible Hand,” a work by thePulitzer Prize-winning American play-wright Ayad Akhtar, will be presented inthe 2014-2015 season of the New York Theatre Workshop. The play is about anAmerican stockbroker kidnapped byIslamic militants, and how his perspec-tive on his captors evolves as he nego-tiates for his release. November andDecember.

Imran Qureshi: Deutsche Bank’s “Aist of the Year” comprises miniaturepaintings and site-specific installa-tions. The exhibition is Qureshi’s firstmajor presentation in the UK. Born in1972 in Pakistan, Qureshi studied inLahore at the National College of Artswith a major in miniature painting—atraditional discipline he teaches theretoday. Considered one of the most

important contemporary artists on thesubcontinent, he crdits in his work aunique synthesis of the genre’s motifand techniques with current issuesand the formal language of contemporary abstract painting. Ikon Gallery,Birmingham, UK, November 19through January 25.

The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of Asia features more than 100 works cre-ated over the past five centuries, pro-viding glimpses of travels across Asia,from pilgrimages and research tripsto expeditions for trade and tour-ism. The exhibition juxtaposes EastAsian scrolls, Japanese woodblockprints and contemporary photographywith maps, archeological drawingsand souvenirs, concluding with threevignettes on western travelers whorecorded and remembered Asia duringthe last century: German archeologistErnst Herzfeld in Central Asia, Amer-ican collector and museum founderCharles Lang Freer in China, and themany travelers worldwide who sharememories with mass-produced, handcolored postcards. Sackler Gallery,Washington, D.C., November 22through May 31.

Coming January Marvels and Mirages of OrientalismBenjamin-Constant in His Time is thefirst major exhibition on Orientalism to


E v e n t s & E x h i b i t i o n s installation is modeled on the groups

found in the Indonesian public domainduring festive, ceremonial or politicalparades—with each figure wearing cos-tumes, carrying musical instrumentsand coming into action through move-ment of hands, clapping and instrumentplaying. Tropenmuseum, Amsterdam, through March 22.

Nasta’liq: The Genius of Persian Callig- raphy is the first exhibition to focus onnasta’liq, a calligraphic script developedin 14th-century Iran that remains one of

the most expressive forms of estheticrefinement in Persian culture to this day.More than 20 works ranging from 1400to 1600, the height of nasta’liq’s devel-opment, tell the story of the script’stransformation from a simple conveyerof the written word into an artisticform on its own. The narrative threademphasizes the achievements of fourof the greatest master calligraphers,whose manuscripts and individualfolios were and still are appreciated,not only for their content but also fortheir technical virtuosity and visualquality. Sackler Gallery, Washington,D.C., through March 22.

Emperor Charles V Captures Tunis:Documenting a Campaign. In June

1535, Emperor Charles V set sailfrom Sardinia at the head of a fleetcomprising 400 ships and more than30,000 soldiers to reconquer theKindgom of Tunis from the Otto-mans. To document the campaignand his hoped-for victory, he wasaccompanied not only by histori-ans and poets but also by his courtpainter, Jan Cornelizs Vermeyen. In1543, the Flemish artist was com-missioned to paint the cartoons for12 monumental tapestries celebrat-ing the campaign from the count-less drawings and sketches he hadbrought back from North Africa.These unique cartoons are the focusof this exhibition, highlighting differ-ent aspects of the dramatic eventsof 1535. Kunsthistorisches Museum,Vienna, through March 31.

Current May and laterGold and the Gods: Jewels ofAncient Nubia draws upon the world-class collection of jewelry fromancient Nubia (in what is now Sudan)accumulated by the Museum of FineArts (MFA), Boston. The Nubian adorn-ments housed at MFA constitute themost comprehensive collection out-side Khartoum. “Gold and the Gods”focuses on excavated ornaments froman early 20th-century expedition by

Koralegedara Pushpakumara, “Barbed Wire” (2013),

a 23.5-meter-long (77') installation comprised of

illuminated barbed wire, LED rope lights and clear hose.

Serendipity

Revealed: Contemporary Sri Lankan Art is a

contemplative view of peacetime

Sri Lanka. Devastated by a 30-year

civil war that only ended in 2009, the

Land of Serendipity, as Sri Lanka is

endearingly known, has just begun

to hone in on its creative and artisticpotential. Unlike other art scenes in

many parts of Asia that have already

gained international recognition, Sri

Lanka has, in a sense, not been able

to share its stories. The exhibition,

the second installment following

the one held at the China Art Project

space in Hong Kong in December 2013,

brings contemporary Sri Lanka to

an international stage, highlighting

the candid work of 14 local artists.

Relying on works that play on imagery

of violence and a sense of protest,

“Serendipity Revealed” contrastspeacetime serendipitousness with

the tension and chaos of a nation

torn by war. The Brunei Gallery,

SOAS, London, through December 20.

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In this modern version of kanafah, an unctuous filling of sweet clotted cream or soft, fresh cheese is enclosed in crisp-fried vermicelli pastry and soaked in syrup. The

pastry, which requires great skill, dates back six or eight centuries. The first known recipe was added to the translation of the greatest of medieval Arabic cookbooks into

Turkish by the Ottoman court physician Sirvani. It is made by pouring a thin flour batter through a sieve, or a container punctured with tiny holes, into a pan of hot oil.

Photo by Ozgur Coskun / Alamy.

Cornerstone is laid

at Washington, D.C.,

Islamic Center 1949

8000-year-old cave

paintings found in

Egypt 1971

‘Abd al-Rahman III

becomes caliph of

al-Andalus 929

‘Abd al-’Aziz Al Sa’ud,

founder of Saudi

Arabia, born 1876

Egypt begins

Aswan High Dam

construction 1960

Ibn Saud declared

King of Hijaz 1926

Caliph ‘Umar

introduces Islamic

calendar 638

Afsharid Dynasty of

Khorasan founded

1736

Al-Shafi’i, Islamic

jurist, born 820

Vasily Radlov,

Russian Turkologist,

born 1837

C. R. Ali coins the

country name

“Pakistan” 1933

Prophet Muhammad

born in Makkah 570

India’s Mughal

Empire enters

classical age under

Akbar 1556

Geographer Ibn

Jubayr leaves

Granada for

Makkah 1183

Hadji Ali of US Army

Camel Corps arrives

in Texas 1856

Chagatai poet Ali-

Shir Nava’I born in

Herat 1441

Al-Musta’sim, last

Abbasid caliph,

dies 1258

Existentialist Abdel

Rah-man Badawi

born 1917

Istiqlal Mosque

opens in Jakarta,

Indonesia 1978

Indonesian author

Pramoedya Ananta

Toer born 1925

First air crossing

over the Sahara

1920

Traveler Ibn Battuta

born in Tangier 1304

Bangl

Day c

prese

(Beng

King ‘

meets

Roose

aramcoworld

Notes:

Notes:

JANUARY FEBRUARY RABI‘ I 1436 –

RABI‘ II

RABI‘ II –

JUMADA I


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1614 151310 11

17

12

18 19 20 21 22 23

24 25 26 27 28 29 1

2

9

3 4 5 6 7 8

10 11

1513 1412

16 17 18 19 20 21 22

23 24 25 26 27 28 29

30

7

1 2 3 4 5 6

8 9 10 11

64 71

8

2

9

3

10 131211 14

15 16 17 201918 21

22 23

30

24 272625 28

29 31

5 31

5 6 7 1098

12 13 14 171615

19 20

27

21 242322

26 28

2

29 30

By the height of the Ottoman Empire in the 16th and 17th centuries, and probably long before that in the major cities of the Islamic lands, confectioners’ guilds specialized in making

particular kinds of sweets. In the 19th century, stylish and fashionable shops appeared, catering to upscale clientele. In this marb le-lined shop in Syria, towering mountains of halvah-

based and stuffed phyllo-dough pastries soar above boxes of stuffed dates and filled cookies.

Photo by Luis Dafos / Alamy.

Tatar intellectual

smail Gaspirali

born in Russia 1851

Tunisian

independence

1956

Dutch settlement

on Java is named

Batavia 1619

First commercial

flow of Saudi

Arabian oil 1938

Caliph Abu Bakr

unifies Arabian

Peninsula 633

Louvre announces

Abu Dhabi museum

2007

Nowruz —“Spring New

Year”—from Eastern

Europe to Central Asia

Arab woman

poet Wallada bint

al-Mustakfi dies 1091

Maimonides born

in Córdoba 1135

Willis (Sears)

Tower engineer

F. R. Khan

born 1929

Heinrich Schliemann

begins to dig for

ancient Troy 1870

British scholar

Muhammad

Marmaduke

Pickthall born 1875

Philosopher Ibn

Rushd born in

Córdoba 1126

Dinara Safina

and Marat Safinbecome first

brother-sister top

tennis pair 2009

Babur begins reign

as first Mughal Khan

of India 1526

Groun

Suez C

Kareem Abdul-Jabar

plays his last LA

Laker game 1989

Tatar literary icon

Gabdulla Tuqay

born in Kazan 1886

Moroccan

Olympian Nawal

El Moutawakel

born 1962

Actor Omar Sharif

born in Egypt 1932

Arabia

transla

Gallan

Egyptian musician

Sayed Darwish

born 1892

Ulugh Beg, ruler

and top astronomer,

born 1394

Pakistan

independence

1956

aramcoworld

Notes:

Notes:

MARCH APRIL JUMADA I –JUMADA IIJUMADA II –

RAJAB

Easter


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may JUNE RAJAB –SHA‘ABANSHA‘ABAN –

RAMADAN

1312

14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27

28

6

29 1 2 3 4 5

7 8 9 10 11 12

1917 181614

20

15

21 22 23 24 25 26

27 28 29 30 1 2 3

4

11

5 6 7 8 9 10

12 13

1 2

3 4 5 876 9

10 11 12 151413 16

17 18

25

19 222120 23

24 26 27 28 29 30

53

7

1

8

2

9 121110

14 15 16 191817

21 22

29

23 262524

28 30

4

Astronomer Ali

ibn Ridwan

sees Lupus

supernova 1006

Filmmaker Satyajit

Ray born in

Calcutta 1921

Marzipan, a mixture half of ground almonds and half of sugar, is one branch of the halvah family of confections, and it achieved particular popularity in al-Andalus, where both sugar

and almonds were grown, and from where it spread to Europe and the New World. It lends itself to molding into elaborate forms, which have included animals, castles, flowers or

this elaborately curved confection made in Toledo, Spain, which was the center of the finest marzipan of al-Andalus. It is decorated with figs and other fruits candied in sugar—a form

of sweet that dates back even farther than marzipan itself.

Photo by Tor Eigeland / SAWDIA.

3113

Achmed Abdullah,

American writer,

born 1881

Magtymguly Pyragy,

Turkmen poet-hero,

born 1724

Sociology founder

Ibn Khaldun born

in Tunis 1332

Washington Irving

begins Alhambra

residence 1829

Unification of

Yemen 1990

Indonesian artist

Affandi dies 1990

Heyerdahl departs

Morocco in papyrus

boat 1970

Pope John Paul II

visits Damascus

Mosque 2001

Assyrians record

solar eclipse

763 BCE

Al-Azhar University

completed in

Cairo 972

Mumtaz Mahal

dies, inspiring

Taj Mahal 1631

Timur Bekmambetov,

director of Abraham

Lincoln: Vampire

Hunter , born 1961

Ibn Fadlan departs for

Volga Bulgaria 921

Treaty of Tripoli

takes effect in

US 1797

Süley

corne

Mamluk Sultanate

founded in

Egypt 1250

First Arab World

Environment Day,

Beirut 2003

aramcoworld

Notes:

Notes:


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JULY AUGUST RAMADAN –SHAWWALSHAWWAL –DHU AL-QA‘DAH

1715 1614

18 19 20 21 22 23 24

25 26 27 28 29 1 2

3

10

4 5 6 7 8 9

11 12 13 14 15

16

17 18 19 20 21 22 23

24 25 26 27 28 29 30

1

8

2 3 4 5 6 7

9 10 11 12 13 14

31 4

5 6 7 1098 11

12 13 14 171615 18

19 20

27

21 242322 25

26 28

2

29 30 31

2 3 4 765

9 10 11 141312

16 17

24

18 212019

23 25 26 27 28

30 3115 16

In hot desert lands, ice, harvested from distant mountains and preserved in ingenious icehouses, was highly prized from the Middle Ages on, used to chill lightly sweetened fruit drinks

(sherbets ). A dizzying variety of these sherbets, often aromatized with spices or essences, have been enjoyed in the Middle East ever since, from where they spread to al-Andalus and

the New World. Mexicans continue to drink homemade aguas frescas with their meals and to buy them from street vendors when out for a stroll. Here, clockwise from top left, are

Rangpur lime, pomegranate with mint, lime, sour cherry, lemon, tamarind, rose petal and, in the center, sekanjebin (sugar and vinegar).

Photo by Eric Hansen.

Optics pioneer

Ibn al-Haytham

born 965

Vasco de Gama sets

sail on first direct

European voyage

to India 1497

Tunisian Husainid

Dynasty founded

1705

Austrian, Venetian

peace with

Ottomans 1718

Great Fire of

Istanbul 1660

Mystic philosopher

Ibn Al-‘Arabi born in

Seville 1165

Jurist Ahmad ibn

Hanbal dies 855

Hadith compiler

Al-Bukhari born 810

ndonesian poet

Chairil Anwar

born 1922

Algerian

independence 1962

Erden Eruç

begins human-

powered global

circumnavigation

2007

Admiral Zheng He

leads fleet on China’s

first “Treasure

Voyage” 1405

Teri Yaad, first post-

independence film

from Pakistan 1948

Queen Cleopatra

dies by her own

hand 30 BCE

Moroccan

ambassador

‘Abd el-Ouahedben Messaoud

meets with Queen

Elizabeth 1600

Premiere of Wadjda ,

first commercial

feature film by a

Saudi woman 2012

Pediatrics pioneer

Muhammad ibn

Zakariya born 854

Sitar virtuoso Vilayat

Khan born 1928

Poet/theologian

Jami born in Jam,

Afghanistan 1414

Mathematician

Maryam Mirzakhani

is first female Fields

medalist 2014

‘Abd a

lands

Muslim US Revolution

soldier Peter Salem

dies 1816

Malaysian freedom

literary association

Asas ’50 formed

1950

Saudi

begin

aramcoworld

Notes: Notes:

‘Id al-Fitr


54/60


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september october DHU AL-QA‘DAH –DHU AL-HIJJAH

DHU AL-HIJJAH –MUHARRAM 1437

2119 2018

22

17

23 24 25 26 27 28

29 1 2 3 4 5 6

7

14

8 9 10 11 12 13

15 16 17

2018 19

21 22 23 24 25 26 27

28 29 30 1 2 3 4

5

12

6 7 8 9 10 11

13 14 15 16 17 18

42 5

6 7

1

8 11109 12

13 14 15 181716 19

20 21

28

22 252423 26

27 29

3

30

2

4 5 6 987

11 12 13 161514

18 19

26

20 232221

25 27

1

28 29 30

The earliest recipes for nougat, the French name for Turkish koz helvası , a confection made by whitening sugar syrup with egg white (or sometimes with the dried halvah root,

Gypsofilia ), date back to medieval Arabic cookbooks. Often embedded with pistachios, almonds or walnuts, nougat may be soft and chewy or so hard that it verges on nut brittle.

From the 16th century, Europeans adopted nougat with enthusiasm, and different cities developed their own special versions.

Photo by Eric Hansen.

Qatar independence

1971

House of Wisdom

patron Al-Ma’mun

born 786

Marrakech

International Film

Festival opens 2001

Kingdom of

Saudi Arabia is

proclaimed 1932

Minor planet named

for astronomer Nasir

al-Din al-Tusi 1979

Arab-American

filmmaker Nabil

Abou-Harb born 1984

Abdul Ahad

Mohmand, first

Afghan astronaut,

returns from

Russian Mir space

station 1988

Prophet

Muhammad

begins Hijra 622

Jurist Abu Hanifah

born in Kufa 699

Mughal ruler

Akbar the Great

born 1542

Ilkhanate founder

Hulagu Khan

born 1218

US actress Melora

Walters born in

Dhahran 1959

Russ

sign T

Gulist

Rimsky-Korsakov’s

Scheherazade

premiers in St.

Petersburg 1888

Mutawakkilite

Kingdom of Yemen

founded 1918

Elif Shafak, Turkish

novelist, born 1971

Writer, dramatist

Tawfiq al-Hakim

born 1898

Albanian language

society founded

1879

aramcoworld

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Notes:

‘Id al-Adha


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november december MUHARRAM –SAFARSAFAR –

RABI‘ I

2523 242219 20

26

21

27 28 29 30 1 2

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

10

17

11 12 13 14 15 16

18

2321 2220

24

19

25 26 27 28 29 1

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

9

16

10 11 12 13 14 15

17 18 19 20

64 71

8

2

9

3

10 131211 14

15 16 17 201918 21

22 23

30

24 272625 28

29

5 42

6 7

1

8 11109

13 14 15 181716

20 21

28

22 252423

27 29

3

30 31Notes: Notes:

Gulab jamun , deep-fried balls that have been soaked in rosewater-flavored syrup, are a standard in Indian restaurants worldwide. The tradition to which they belong dates back to

Antiquity, when balls of wheat flour dough were deep-fried and drenched in honey. As with other older forms of confectionery, Muslim cooks refined these in the Middle Ages and

were probably responsible for introducing them, from the 12th century on, to the subcontinent. There, a paste of boiled-down milk was substituted for wheat flour. This was replaced

by dried milk when it became available in the 20th century. In the West, the wheat-flour form continued, giving rise to the buñuelos of Mexico and the donuts of northern Europe.

Photo by PhotosIndia.com LLC / Alamy.

Bollywood star

Shah Rukh Khan

born 1965

Discovery of

1513 world map

by Ottoman

cartographer

Piri Reis 1929

Polymath Ibn

al-Khatib born

in Fez 1313

Omani Sultan

Qaboos bin Said

born in Salalah 1940

Lebanese superstar

singer Fairouz born

1935

Tatar poet and

activist Mehmet

Niyazi dies 1931

Writer Ameen Rihani

born on Mount

Lebanon 1876

Carter and Carnarvon

open King Tut’s

tomb 1922

Poet Rumi meets

mentor Shams-e

Tabrizi 1244

Sultan Suleiman

(“The Magnificent”)

born 1494

Comparative religion

pioneer Ibn Hazm

born 994

India launches

its first Mars

orbiter 2013

United Arab

Emirates declared

1971

Rock star Frank

Zappa, son of a

Greek-Arab Sicilian,

born 1940

Bangladesh artist

Zainul Abedin

born 1914

US Pres. Jefferson

hosts iftar for

Tunisian guest 1805

Zenobia, queen of

Palmyra, born in

Syria 1245

All-India Muslim

League is founded

1906

Kyrgy

Aitma

Sheke

Lebanese-American

chemist E. J. Corey

accepts Nobel Prize

1990

Ibn al-Nafis,

discoverer of blood’s

pulmonary circulation,

dies 1288

Morocco becomes first

country to recognize US

independence 1777

Top scientist and

historian Al-Biruni

dies 1048

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Christmas


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