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What I Thought Was Going To Be A Relaxing Trip To Belize

The Local Police Station Was Not On My Itinerary By Mary Craft

During my most recent trip to Belize my Island friends

were concerned about me of which I was unaware. There were phone calls and emails received from Belizeans saying they had found my pocketbook on the beach with credit cards

strewn. I normally let my office staff know where I am staying when I vacation but this time I did not do so. In fact, not only did no one know the hotel, they did not even know what tourist island. So those two days no one heard from me they suspected the worst.

I had the pleasure, or should I say displeasure, of being mugged on San Pedro island. This is a rare occurrence there although unfortunately a common one in Belize City on the mainland. San Pedro is a small beautiful island surrounded by light turquoise blue waters that are a popular destination for snorkelers and scuba divers. The second largest barrier reef in the world is adjacent to it and the Great Blue Hole there was declared by Jacques Cousteau as on one of the top ten dive sites.

Why I chose BelizeMy reasons for going was not for either of

these activities. My brief snorkeling experience in Costa Rica I remember hoping I would not see anything. My son and I share December birthdays and of course it is the Christmas month but instead of gifts we take a trip. My boathouse friends Delbert and Norm had spent a substantial length of time there so I had heard many pleasant stories. Also on the plus side was that it is about two hours from Houston and is the only Central American country that speaks English. It was a British colony until 1982.

We landed at the international airport on the

mainland and took a 12 passenger 12 minute flight to San Pedro. The “puddle jumpers” offer a low flying smooth scenic trip. I was nervous about my first flight on a small plane and actually found it not scary but enjoyable.

Tube through cavesThe adventure I booked for our trip was one

that you cannot experience anywhere else in the world. Cave tubing was given five stars by every reviewer on Trip Advisor which is my source for where to go and what to do. We had a great guide, David, who is part-owner of Caving Tubing R Us. When I made the reservation he suggested going on a day there were no cruise ships. He picked us up at the water taxi port on the mainland and we drove about an hour stopping to pick up meat pies from street vendors on the way. He entertained us with educational and colloquial banter. We stopped at a fruit winery and sampled wines from the Californian who owned it. Some of the wine samples were raspberry, pineapple and cashew which they say is a fruit.

When we arrived at the rain forest near the caves we were given tubes and helmets with lights and took the 45 minute hike to where we would start the float. We had to cross the crystal clear refreshing spring fed water three times. We learned much about the trees we passed along the way. There was a parasite tree that

wraps itself around another devouring it and a poisonous tree which gives a rash if touched. When we came upon the “peppermint” termite nest David stuck his hand inside and offered up what he called good protein for us to sample. Five of the six in our group ate some and told me they tasted minty. Guess you figured out I was not one of them.

Inside the cavesAt the dock we jumped butt first into the tubes

and were hooked together. As we entered the blackness of the cave the sunlit forest viewed from within seemed all the brighter and lusher. The stalactites were breathtaking and some shimmered as if covered with glitter. Some of the ceilings are quite high almost like floating through an auditorium so you do not feel claustrophobic.

At one point there was a waterfall where we drank the water that flowed. After exiting the cave we leisurely floated down the river through the tall lush jungle on either side for about an hour. Some chose to take a dip.

On our return we flew back from the small commuter airport. No identification required

and no security. You simply tell them your name and board. It was much quicker than the 90 minute water taxi.

The town of San PedroSan Pedro is a small town where you can walk

to everything. In fact, I walked to my hotel from the landing strip. The island is made up of a Caribbean beachfront with its hotels, bars and restaurants that open up street side to Front Street. The spots on this street and Middle Street are the ones most frequented by tourists either by foot or golf cart. If you really want to experience the native’s life go to Back Street and step back in time to grocery stores, hardware stores, drug stores, diners, etc. There are no sidewalks on any of the streets and the uneven cobblestone roads are flip flop friendly but leave your heels at home.

The people are friendly and many say hello as you pass. The ethnic background of most is Spanish because of migration from neighboring countries and blacks who the British brought over as slaves from West Africa.

Although they were taught English in school as soon as they hit the playground they talked in the native Creole which they spell Kriol because in that “language” the spelling is phonetic. A native explained to me that it is what some describe as “bad English”. I got to know many locals and when they talked amongst themselves I did not understand anything said. I could pick out some words but that was it. Some examples of “Bileez” phrases are:

Da how yu di du? - How are you?

Ah mi gat wahn gut gut tayme - I’ve had a wonderful time.

Back to the scene of the crimeNow back to the mugging described as such by

the local police. I was escorted home along the beach after dancing at a couple of beach bars by one of my dance partners. He walked me to the steps leading from the beach to the hotel pool area surrounded by the rooms. I walked about 15 steps along the pool when my purse

was grabbed by someone from behind who was hiding in one of the room alcoves. He knocked me down and I ended up with bruises on my hip and elbow. I screamed that my purse was stolen and my escort ran after him and recovered my purse that was dropped but my wallet was taken. Guess he wasn’t a techie because he left my ipad inside.

Someone found my wallet the next day and phoned both my optometric office and the Moon office from the business cards found inside. I did not see the email from the retriever until the second day because I tend to not go online while on vacation and my phone was off.

Meet with the “Good Samaritan”I arranged to meet the woman at the hotel at 6

pm with cash reward in hand. Earlier that day I made a police report since it was suggested by the hotel. When I arrived at the station there was a note on the counter they passed to me that had the name Phil and a phone number. I was told to call him that he said he knew who had my wallet. I explained I had already been contacted by the party and the police stated I should be sure to make the exchange in a public place. The woman showed up with her uncle who did the talking. He started by stating she

made a lot of phone calls and that cost money. I interrupted him when I realized I was being extorted. I asked him, not delicately, how much he wanted for my wallet. In the meantime my son demanded he give me the wallet to which he replied he did not have it that he was going to take me to Phil (a white man, probably ex-pat) to get it. I told him he could keep my friggin’ wallet and left for dinner. Later I discovered the police arrived and got the wallet from Phil. At this point there was no cash and I had closed the charge card accounts. I tried twice to get my wallet at the station but the officer who did the report was the only one with the key to where it was and he was not in. The station was like Mayberry only dingier. Reports were written in a hard cover ledger and there were corded phones and no computers and the shirts worn by the officers were frayed.

The up side

On the up side the hotel comped us our five nights plus room charges which came to $1400. The locals we met were very upset with the incident since they make their living from tourists and said they will find out who did it.

I recommend travel to San Pedro or the other more laid-back island Caye Caulker for a great relaxing time. My experience was an isolated one and there can always be a jerk even in paradise.You are certain to enjoy your stay and as they say there Belieze It!