SAMPLE: Explorer's Guide Maine Coast & Islands, 2nd ed

If you want to continue along the coast,you have to leave I-295 and switch toRt. 1 at Brunswick (brunswickdowntown.org). Exit 28 puts you abruptly on a commercial strip; at a particularlylong light, Rt. 1 angles off to the left.

Continue straight instead, up leafy Pleasant St. to Maine St. Turn right and rightagain at Brunswick Station and the Brunswick Visitors Center (207-721-0999; 16 Station Ave.) with restrooms. This new complex was built to welcome thearrival of Amtrak’s Downeaster (thedowneaster.com) from Boston. It’s also thedeparture point for the Maine Eastern Railroad (see the sidebar). Park here and

93

3

LEFT: Front Sreet, Bath Christina Tree

Brunswick/Bath RegionINCLUDING THE HARPSWELLS, PHIPPSBURGPENINSULA, AND GEORGETOWN PENINSULA

COASTAL RT. 1 OFFERS EASY ACCESS but no views of Brunswick, Maine’spremier college town, or of Bath, the handsome old shipbuilding city that’s hometo the Maine Maritime Museum. The highway double-barrels past both communi-ties, shortchanging them along with the Midcoast’s most convenient—yet surpris-ingly peaceful—peninsulas and bridge-linked islands.

Between its Brunswick and Bath exits, Rt. 1 shadows the Androscoggin Riverfor a way, giving motorists a glimpse of the area’s many hundreds of miles of water-front. Two of Maine’s longest and mightiest rivers—the Kennebec and theAndroscoggin—meet in Merrymeeting Bay above Bath. Cove-notched peninsulasstretch south from both communities.

Harpswell, south of Brunswick, is known for its seafood restaurants but alsooffers some of the coast’s best kayaking. Phippsburg and Georgetown, south ofBath, are home to the Midcoast’s biggest and best beaches.

BrunswickCheck out these great attractions and activities . . .

GDMECoastIsii1.001-232.prnt.Q8_GDMECoastIsii1.001-232 2/21/13 3:03 PM Page 93

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

94

24

209

127

24

24

24

196

123

125

1

1

1

295

295

201

ToEagle

Island

To Lisbon Falls

To Bath

31

28

22

20

15 17

Casco Bay

PottsPoint Mackerel Cove

New Meadows River

Androscoggin R.

Kennebec River

Harpsw

ell Sound

STAPLES RD

FREEPORT RD

WOLFE'S N

ECK RD

MERE POIN

T RD

FLYING

PO

INT

RD

PLEA

SAN

T

H I

LL

RD

HIGHLAND RD

MAIN

E

ST HARPSWELL RD

HARPSWELL N

ECK RD

MOUNTAIN RD

CUNDY'S HARBOR RD

BATH RD

FORESIDE RD

MIDDLESEX RD

WinslowMemorialPark

StaplesPoint

Bowdoin College

ThomasPointBeach

WOLFE'S NECKWOODSSTATE PARK

MastLanding

Sanctuary

South Freeport

Yarmouth

FreeportMerepoint

CooksCorner

Topsham

SouthHarpswell

BaileyIsland

OrrsIsland

Cundy'sHarbor

HarpswellCenter

Brunswick

N

0 21

Miles

Brunswick and the Harpswells

© The Countryman Press


stroll, either up Maine St. to the Bowdoin College (bowdoin.edu) campus, ordown to shops and restaurants.

Brunswick’s Maine St. is the widest main street in the state, laid out in 1717with a grassy “mall” near the upper end, the scene of farmer’s markets and sum-mer band concerts. Its long lower blocks are lined with shops, galleries, andrestaurants. This is a true college townwith reasonably priced restaurants, anoutstanding bookstore (Gulf of MaineBooks, 134 Maine St.), and frequentalternative films at Eveningstar Cin-ema (149 Maine St.) and the FrontierCafé & Cinema Gallery (14 MaineSt.). Galleries cluster at the lower endof the street. Second Friday Art Walks(artwalkmaine.org/brunswick) revealmany more studios and other art ven-ues along the way.

Founded in 1794, Bowdoin is notonly the pride but also very much apart of Brunswick. Its visitor-friendlycampus is the July and August venuefor the Bowdoin International MusicFestival (bowdoinfestival.org) and forthe Maine State Music Theater

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

95

Brunswick Farmer’s Market on the Mall Christina Tree

Poet Gary Lawless presides over the Gulf ofMaine Bookstore in Brunswick. Christina Tree


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

96

(msmt.org), Maine’s most popular summer stage. The nearby Bowdoin CollegeMuseum of Art (bowdoin.edu/artmuseum) has been recently renovated andexpanded, the better to display its varied collection and changing exhibits, whichinclude contemporary artists. Don’t miss the Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum,hidden away in Hubbard Hall. It’s a trove of trophy Arctic wildlife and gear fromthe pioneer attempts by Bowdoin graduates Robert Peary and Donald BaxterMacMillan to reach the North Pole. For more about the colorful and controversialAdmiral Peary—and his role in the 1890s equivalent to the 1960s race to themoon—visit his ship-shaped home on Eagle Island (pearyeagleisland.org), now a state historic site, accessible by the sailboat Symbion II (207-725-0969).

Tip: Brunswick’s museums are closed Monday; seasonal farmer’s markets onthe Mall are held Tuesday and Friday.

The Pickard Theater at Bowdoin College Christina Tree

Eagle Island State Historical Site Christina Tree


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

97

Famed for its seafood restaurants, thistown is a great place to stay. Generallyknown as “the Harpswells” because it’sso ragged, cut by water and stitched bybridges, it claims hundreds of islandsand more shoreline than any other

town in Maine. Harpswell Sound is a particularly appealing, sheltered place forkayaking—and H2Outfitters (h2outfitters.com), sited at the Cribstone Bridge onOrrs Island, is in a great spot to access it. They offer tours ranging from a fewhours to several days.

From Maine St. at the edge of the Bowdoin campus, Rt. 123 runs south, pastfarm stands and gallery signs. In Harpswell Center the 1775 white-clapboard Eli-jah Kellogg Church, named for a former pastor who was a popular 19th-centurychildren’s book author, faces the matching Harpswell Town Meeting House acrossthe road. Admittedly, most people who come this far are on their way to two of thearea’s popular seafood restaurants (see Local Flavors).

Most tourists actually turn off Rt. 123 six miles below Brunswick, onto Moun-tain Rd., which crosses Harpswell Sound on its way to Sebascodegan Island. Theroad ends at Rt. 24, where a right takes you through scenic Orrs Island and acrossthe recently rebuilt Cribstone Bridge. Built with granite blocks, laid honeycomb-fashion to allow tidal flows, the bridge puts you on Bailey Island. Continue pastpicturesque Mackerel Cove and keep an eye out for Washington Ave. on the left.Park at the small shingled building here that’s an Episcopal church and follow thesigns and path along the water to the Giant Staircase. The staircase itself is aseries a clefts in the cliffs with a flight of smooth boulders rising through the surf.The rocks all along this path look deceptively soft, like petrified driftwood.

Back on Rt. 24 continue to Land’s End, where a large gift store and small

Maine RR Excursion Meets AmtrakThe Maine Eastern Railroad (866-637-2457; maineeasternrailroad.com) runs Fri.and Sat., Memorial Day weekend to late June, then Wed.–Sun. until late October.

The 54-mile run from Brunswick to Rockland—with stops in Bath and Wiscasset—takes justover two hours, traveling along the coast inplush, streamlined 1940s and ’50s coaches anddining car, pulled by a 1950s diesel electricengine. Check the website for current scheduleand fares. The Amtrak Downeaster (thedowneaster.com) from Boston expanded its servicebeyond Portland to Brunswick in 2012; plans callfor the Maine Eastern to adjust its scheduleaccordingly. Tickets for both the Downeasterand Maine Eastern are available at the visitorscenter, 16 Brunswick Station.

Maine Eastern RailroadChristina Tree

The HarpswellsCheck out these great attractions and activities . . .


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

98

H2Outfitters on Orrs Island Christina Tree

statue by Casco Bay honor Maine fishermen. Return up Rt. 24 to Rt. 1. There areplenty of photo and shopping ops along the way. Cundy’s Harbor, a well-marked7-mile roundtrip detour, is another place to savor seafood with a view of lobsterand sailboats in another quiet inlet.

Checking InBest places to stay in Brunswickand the Harpswells

Brunswick Inn (207-729-4914; thebrunswickinn.com; 165 Park Row,Brunswick), the best place to stay intown, is a gracious, 1840s GreekRevival mansion with long windowsand a pillared porch. It’s buffered fromMaine St. traffic by the grassy “mall,”but is within walking distance of boththe Bowdoin College campus anddowntown shops and restaurants. The15 guest rooms and suites are dividedbetween the original house and a con-

temporary carriage house; ample com-mon space includes a hearthside bar.

The Inn at Brunswick Station(207-837-6565; theinnatbrunswickstation.com; 4 Noble St.) is a 48-room,four-suite facility with a restaurant nearthe campus. The Captain DanielStone Inn (207-373-1824; captaindanielstoneinn.com; 10 Water St.)offers 24 elevator-accessed guest roomsand suites, a fitness center, and arestaurant near the Androscoggin. TheBlack Lantern (207-725-6165; blacklanternbandb.com; 57 Elm St.) is acomfortable, moderately priced B&Bon the Androscoggin River, across thebridge in Topsham.

Harpswell Inn (207-853-5509;


harpswellinn.com; 108 Lookout PointRd., Harpswell) was once an annex toone of the 52 now vanished hotels andboardinghouses in Harpswell duringthe steamboating era. With lawns slop-ing to the water near a quiet point, thisthree-story, white-clapboard B&Boffers peace, all the comforts, and easyaccess to kayaking and lobster pounds.Middle Bay Farm Bed & Breakfast(207-373-1375; middlebayfarm.com;287 Pennellville Rd., Brunswick), sited

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

99

on a quiet cove, is a particularly beauti-ful spot. There are four guest rooms inthe gracious 1830s main house; theneighboring Sail Loft houses twosuites, each with cooking facilities andtwo small bedrooms. Grounds includea dock, ideal for launching kayaks.Open seasonally, The Captain’s WatchB&B (207-725-0979; 916 Cundy’s Har-bor Rd., Harpswell) is a cupola-toppedformer Civil War–era hotel that nowoffers four spacious water-view rooms,

Joshua ChamberlainLocal historians argue that the Civil Warbegan and ended in Brunswick—and acase can be made. It was here that Har-riet Beecher Stowe penned Uncle Tom’sCabin, a book credited with starting thewar; and Joshua Chamberlain—the Bow-doin College professor (and later presi-dent) considered Maine’s greatest CivilWar hero—was the Union general chosento accept the South’s surrender at Appo-mattox. Thanks to the Ken Burns PBS CivilWar series and a spate of Civil War filmsand books, Chamberlain’s popularity hassurged in recent years. The JoshuaChamberlain Home and Museum, 226Maine St., has been rescued from demoli-tion and largely restored by the PejepscotHistorical Society (207-729-6606). Cham-berlain (1828–1914) is best rememberedfor his valor and leadership defending Lit-tle Round Top during the Battle of Gettysburg. He ended the war as a major gen-eral and was chosen by General Grant to meet with General Robert E. Lee atAppomattox. As the Confederate regiments marched into the Union camp to laydown their arms, Chamberlain had his troops salute them, a gesture of respectthat infuriated some Northerners but helped reconcile many Southerners todefeat. After the war Chamberlain served four one-year terms as governor ofMaine, and served 1881–83 as president of Bowdoin College. The house itself evokes the sense of this intriguing man—as well as of a young HenryWordsworth Longfellow, who lived here in 1832–33 while a student at Bowdoin,three decades before Chamberlain moved in.

Joshua Lawrence ChamberlainPenobscot Historical Society


as well as access to sailing with theinnkeeper’s 38-foot Symbion II. Openseasonally and facing Casco Bay fromBailey Island, Driftwood Inn and Cottages (207-833-5461; thedriftwoodinnmaine.com) is a vintage-1905 com-pound of rustic cottages and a centrallodge with a pine-walled dining room,serving breakfast and dinner. A small,saltwater swimming pool is set in therocks. The 16 rooms vary in price,comfort, and view; reasonably pricedhousekeeping cottages are available bythe week.

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

100

Driftwood Inn, Bailey Island Christina Tree

Local FlavorsThe taste of Brunswick and theHarpswells—local restaurants,cafés, and more

BrunswickAs you might expect of Maine’s pre-mier college town, Brunswick offerswidely varied and affordable diningoptions.

Open for Dinner OnlyClementine Restaurant (207-721-9800; clementinemaine.com; 44 MaineSt.) generally gets the best high-endreviews for its sophisticated menu andwhite-tablecloth ambience, whileHenry & Marty (207-721-9141; henryandmarty.com; 61 Maine St.) offers awelcoming atmosphere and variedmenu. Trattoria Athena (207-721-0700; trattoriaathena.wordpress.com;25 Mill St.) serves tender goat chops,braised rabbit, and fine seafood; wildboar ragu makes a savory, brilliantsauce on zigzag-edged tender housepasta. El Camino (207-725-8228; 15Cushing St.) is also open for dinneronly but in a class of its own: funky,friendly, and widely beloved for inven-

tive Mexican food, utilizing chemical-free seafood and meat, organic andlargely local produce. There are veganand vegetarian options, memorablemargaritas, and a wide choice of beers.

Open for Both Lunch and DinnerThe Great Impasta (207-729-5858; 42Maine St.), just off Rt. 1, is a favoritestop for motorists as well as for localpasta lovers; plaques on booths honorregulars.

Scarlet Begonias (207-721-0403;16 Station Ave.) is another reasonablypriced source of pastas and pizzas, alsosalads and overflowing sandwiches.

Tao Restaurant (207-725-9002; 22 Pleasant St.) is an attractive upscaleAsian fusion oasis with a wide choice of well-seasoned small plates, andLemongrass (207-725-9008; 212Maine St.) serves reasonably pricedVietnamese specialties, tasty noodlesoups, fresh spring rolls, and “Goi” sal-ads. Wild Oats Bakery and Cafe inTontine Mall (207-725-6287; 149Maine St.) is the town gathering place,a find for from-scratch pastries andbreads, healthy build-your-own sand-wiches and salads. Whatever you do,don’t pass up Gelato Fiasco (207-607-4002; 74 Main St.), the source for off-


beat flavors of irresistible ice cream,made from scratch daily, open until 11 PM.

A shade off the beaten path,Libby’s Market (207-729-7277; 42 Jor-dan Ave.) is a small variety store that’swell worth finding for truly amazinglobster rolls. Nearby the Fat BoyDrive Inn (207-729-9431; 111 BathRd.) is a must for nostalgia buffs: no1950s reconstruct but a real drive-inwith carhops that’s survived because it’s good and reasonably priced.

Spacious and informal with sea-sonal deck dining overlooking theAndroscoggin, Sea Dog Brewing (207-725-0162; seadogbrewing.com) is agood bet for families. It’s housed in thevintage-1868 (former) mill, 1 Main St.in Topsham, just across the bridge, theother side of Rt. 1 from Brunswick’sMaine St. Also good for families and

for solo travelers in search of a com-fortable place with WiFi is FrontierCafé & Cinema (207-725-5222;explorefrontier.com). Housed at theback of the big brick (former) millknown as Fort Andross (14 Maine St.),it features long windows overlooking adam and falls on the Androscoggin.The reasonably priced menu evokesdifferent parts of the world frequentedin his previous work by owner GilGilroy; check the website for frequentfilms, lectures, and events in theadjoining small theater.

The HarpswellsThe Harpswells harbor numerous sea-sonal places to eat lobster and freshfish by the water. On Bailey Island thebest known is Cook’s Lobster House(207-833-2818; cookslobster.com), alarge tourist landmark dating from theera of reasonably priced “shore din-ners”; it’s the only one open year-round. In July and August try to getthere before noon, when the CascoBay liner arrives with its load of day-trippers from Portland. Locals head forMorse’s Cribstone Grill (207-833-7775) across Rt. 24 at the CribstoneBridge, a glass-walled tavern right onthe water, owned by local lobster deal-ers. The Dolphin Marina & Restau-rant (207-833-6000; dolphinmarinaandrestaurant.com) is 2.5 miles off Rt. 123at Basin Point in South Harpswell—but that doesn’t seem to prevent every-one from finding it. The Saxton family’slong-established, recently expandedrestaurant, overlooking Casco Bay, isknown for its chowders and lobsterstew, but options include everythingfrom sandwiches to sirloin, and every-thing comes with blueberry muffins.On a warm summer day Holbrooks(207-729-9050) in Cundy’s Harbor isanother great waterside spot to feast atpicnic tables on local seafood.

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

101

Frontier Café Christina Tree


Most communities retain the best ofwhat they build, but all the biggest andmost magnificent structures built inBath have sailed away. Over the yearssome 5,000 vessels were built here.Most would have towered high abovethe present mellow, brick downtown

and striking Italianate, Greek, and Georgian Revival mansions lining Washingtonand High Streets.

Still towering above the city, the one landmark visible from Rt. 1 is Bath IronWorks’ 400-foot-high red-and-white construction crane, proclaiming the city’songoing shipbuilding status.

American shipbuilding began downriver from Bath in 1607, with the launch ofthe Popham Colony’s 30-ton pinnace Virginia. It peaked during the post–Civil Warera during which 80 percent of this country’s full-rigged ships were built in Maine,almost half in Bath. Obviously this is the place for a museum about ships and ship-building, and the Maine Maritime Museum (mainemaritimemuseum.org) fills thebill magnificently (see the sidebar). Allow an hour to an entire day, especially if youtake the trolley tour of the (now) General Dynamics Bath Iron Works (gdbiw.com),one of a number of tour, cruise, and paddle options offered by this lively, family-friendly museum.

From Rt. 1 the exit ramp to downtown Bath slants steeply down to the Ken-nebec River, just before the wide, soaring Sagadahoc Bridge. The rehabbed, brick Bath Railway Station (207-442-7291; visitbath.com) here houses a friendlyinformation center with restrooms and useful local maps. The Maine MaritimeMuseum is a few minutes south along Washington St.; extensive, riverside groundsincludes a seasonal café. In downtown Bath, Front St. is also chockablock with

restaurants and shops. Check out bothfloors of Renys (renys.com), carrying awide selection of discounted wares,from lawn chairs to stationery, toys,and Maine specialty foods. MarkingsGallery (207-443-1499; markingsgallery.com) blends locally made, qual-ity clay, glass, jewelry, art, woodwork-ing, and mixed media—and NowYou’re Cooking (207-443-1402; acooksemporium.com). Around the cornerHalcyon Yarn (207-442-7909; halcyonyarn.com; 12 School St.) is a mecca forknitters, spinners, and rug hookers,with yarns distributed worldwide.

Given its choice of dining and cen-tral location, Bath makes a good base.The Inn at Bath (207-443-4294; innatbath.com; 969 Washington St.), arestored 1830s mansion in the historicdistrict, is the city’s best B&B. A new

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

102 BathCheck out these great attractions, activities, and accommodations . . .

The Inn at Bath Christina Tree


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

103


WestportIsland

Hermit Island

209

128

138

209217

24

24

24

216

127

127

144

144

1

1

295

Kennebec R

.

Ken

ne

bec R.

New

Meadow

s R.

Mer

rym

eetin

g Bay

Shee

psco

t R.

Josephine NewmanWildlife Sanctuary

FortPopham

MaineMaritimeMuseum

Bates-Morse MountainConservation Area

REIDSTATE PARK

MontsweagPreserve

HamiltonSanctuary

POPHAM BEACHSTATE PARK

PhippsburgCenter

PophamBeach

CooksCorner

Robinhood

West Point

FiveIslands

DaysFerry

Woolwich

Georgetown

SebascoEstates

Bowdoinham

BayPoint

Montsweag

Bath

Small PointBeach

N

0 31.5

Miles

Bath Area


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

104

127

127

209

1

1

FRONT S

T

LIN

COLN

ST

ARROWSIC RD

WAS

HINGT

ON S

T

MID

DLE

RD

WAS

HINGT

ON ST

HIGH S

T

MAI

N ST

WAT

ER ST

CENTRE ST

WITCH SPRING HILL RD

COM

MER

CIAL

ST

FRON

T ST

To Richmond

To Phippsburg,Popham, and

Small PointTo Georgetownand Reid State Park

To Brunswick

HansonBay

Kenn

ebec

Riv

er

Bath IronWorks

Maine MaritimeMuseum

Woolwich

N

0 1/4

Miles

Downtown Bath


four-story, 94-room Hampton Inn (207-386-1310; 140 Commercial St.) offerswater views and easy access to shops and restaurants.

The Chocolate Church Arts Center (207-442-8455; chocolatechurcharts.org;804 Washington St.) offers frequent entertainment. The big event here is BathHeritage Days, a multiday extravaganza surrounding the Fourth of July. High-lights: an old-time parade, guided tours, live entertainment, fun competitions, andfireworks over the Kennebec.

Note: It’s possible to be car-free in Bath. Arrive via the Eastern Maine Railroad and take advantage of the Bath Trolley, which circulates around town,stopping frequently at the station and the Maine Maritime Museum.

Local FlavorsThe taste of Bath—local restaurants, cafés, and more

The high-end dinner spot (lunch too) isSolo Bistro (207-443-3373; solobistro.com; 128 Front St.). The Scandinaviandecor is contemporary, and so too isthe chef’s way with locally sourcedingredients. The menu changesmonthly, but there’s always a wide

choice, from a burger to a three-course, prix fixe menu. Beale StreetBarbeque and Grill (207-442-9514;mainebbq.com; 215 Water St.), openfor lunch and dinner, is known far andwide for its Tennessee-style pulledpork, ribs, and Reubens. KennebecTavern and Marina (207-442-9636;kennebectavern.com; 119 CommercialSt.), open for lunch and dinner, is aspacious oasis with booths and tablesoverlooking the Kennebec River, plus aseasonal waterside deck. The menu is


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

105

Maine Maritime MuseumBoth the Maine Maritime Museum (207-443-1316; mainemaritimemuseum.org;243 Washington St.) and Bath Iron Works (gdbiw.com) are sited on a 4-mile-longreach of the tidal Kennebec River, with banks sloping at precisely the right gradi-ent for laying keels. Open 9:30–5 daily, the museum’s extensive, 20-acre-pluscampus includes the brick-and-glass Maritime History Building and the Percy &Small Shipyard, the country’s only surviving wooden shipbuilding yard. The perma-nent collection of artwork, artifacts, and documents totals more than 21,500pieces. The pride of Bath, you learn, were the Down Easters, a compromisebetween the clipper ship and old-style freighter that plied the globe between the1870s and 1890s, and the mammoth multimastedschooners designed to ferry coal and local exports likeice, granite, and lime. Two sleek sculptures depict thehull and stern of the six-masted Wyoming, the largestwooden sailing vessel ever built in the United States.Both are built to scale and spaced as far apart as theywould have been on the actual ship, which was built onthis spot. Permanent exhibits include Distant Lands ofPalm and Spice, a fascinating and occasionally horrifyingglimpse of where and why Maine ships sailed. Exhibitsaside, the museum involves visitors in the significance ofits surroundings. You can choose from a dozen cruisesand other tours; reserve ahead for the popular trolley tourof the BIW shipyard in which naval vessels are currentlybuilt and repaired. There is plenty here for children,including a hands-on pilothouse and pirate-boat climbingstructure. Check the website for frequent workshopsand special events.

Trolley tour of Bath Iron WorksCourtesy, Maine Maritime Museum

Maine Maritime Museum,Bath Courtesy, Maine Maritime Museum

Figurehead SamSkofield

Courtesy, Maine Maritime Museum


From the Maine Maritime Museumdrive south on Rt. 209, down the narrow peninsula that’s the town ofPhippsburg (phippsburg.com). Youcross Winnegance Creek, an ancientshortcut between Casco Bay and theKennebec River, and just beyond it, at

39 Main Rd., Up the Creek (207-442-8239; kayakingrentals.com) offers reasonablypriced kayak rentals as well as access to an ideal paddling spot.

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

106 large, reasonably priced, and can hitthe spot after a day of driving. AtMae’s Café (207-442-8577; maescafeandbakery.com; 160 Center St.)breakfast omelets are available all dayand the luncheon salads and specialshave a loyal following. For a quicklunch, pick up a sandwich (good souptoo) at the Starlight Café (122 FrontSt.; closed weekends) and carry itdown to a bench in Waterfront Park,overlooking the Kennebec River. CaféCrème (56 Front St.) offers espresso,

snacks, and WiFi. The Cabin (552Washington Ave.) is a justly popularlocal gathering spot for first-rate pizzain the evening; lunchtime tends to becrowded with workers from the BathIron Works across the road. ByrnesIrish Pub (207-443-6776; byrnesirishpub.com; 38 Centre St.) and theAdmiral Steakhouse (207-443-2555;admiralsteakhouse.com; 768 Washing-ton St.), both under the same owner-ship, round out dining and drinkingchoices.

Phippsburg Peninsulaand Popham BeachAttractions, activities, accommodations, eateries, etc.

A newly launched naval vessel sails away down the Kennebec by the Maine MaritimeMuseum. Christina Tree


At Bisson’s Center Store (a picnicsource) be sure to turn left onto ParkerHill Rd., which puts you almostinstantly in Phippsburg Center. Onyour left is one of Maine’s oldest andmost imposing mansions, while beyondlies a classic white-clapboard churchshaded by a giant, ancient linden tree.The cupola-topped four-square man-sion, onetime home of Maine’s firstU.S. congressman, is now the 1774Inn at Phippsburg (207-389-1774;1774inn.com). Its original woodworkand airy feel have been gracefully,unstuffily restored, and the groundsslope to the river. Follow this roaddown the east side of the peninsula andat the junction with Rt. 209 turn left. Note the entrance to Popham Beach StatePark (hotline: 207-389-9125) with 3 miles of sand. The beach width varies with thetide but there is plenty of room here to walk: 519 acres and full facilities. Rt. 209ends shortly beyond the state park, roughly 15 miles south of Bath, at Fort Popham,a granite Civil War–era fort (with picnic benches) at the mouth of the KennebecRiver. A wooded road, walking only, leads to 20th-century fortifications in FortBaldwin Memorial Park; a six-story tower offers views upriver and out to sea.

Popham Beach actually extends right to Fort Popham; access is free, but parking is limited. Much of it belongs to Spinney’s Restaurant (207-389-1122), the other attraction at the end of this road, with tables (if you’re lucky) on the

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

107

1774 Inn at Phippsburg Christina Tree

Spinney’s Restaurant, Popham BeachChristina Tree


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

108

A cottage at Rock Gardens Inn Christina Tree

glassed-in beachside porch. Spinney’s is all about fresh fish and seafood—fried,broiled, in chowder and/or rolls. Locals avoid the crowds and duck around the corner to Percy’s General Store (207-289-2010), where a back room offers water-view booths, good from breakfast on through lobster dinners.

There are two roads less taken in Phippsburg. From Rt. 209, Sebasco Rd.accesses the western side of the peninsula. Near this junction North Creek Farm(northcreekfarm.org) is an extensive nursery and perennial garden specializing inroses, also a great spot for lunch. Sebasco Harbor Resort (sebasco.com) down theroad offers golf and more than 130 rooms, divided among its main lodge, annexes,and 22 cottages on scattered on 550 acres. Weddings and reunions are specialties.Facilities include tennis courts, a large swimming pool, a full children’s program,adult activities, and a spa. Hidden away on a point within but beyond this resort,albeit with access to all its facilities, is Rock Gardens Inn (rockgardensinn.com),the century-old core of the entire Sebasco compound. Its 10 artfully furnished andpositioned cottages and a small lodge with a dining and common space are alsogeared to families, but in June, July, and September many guests are here for thewidely respected Sebasco Art Workshops. Still another gem hidden away downthe road (turn off onto Black Landing Rd.) is Anna’s Water’s Edge (207-389-1803). Sited on a commercial wharf, with informal dining inside and out, this is alocal favorite for steamed lobster and clams as well as a full menu (reservationsaccepted).


Just east of the Sagadahoc Bridge, atthe Dairy Queen that’s been there forever, turn south onto Rt. 127. Crossa shorter bridge and you are onArrowsic Island. Half a dozen milessouth another short bridge puts you

both in and on Georgetown, the name of the town and the island, one that’s gener-ally considered part of the larger peninsula.

Robinhood Rd., named—if you believe it—for a local Indian chief, leads tothe Robinhood Marine Center (robinhoodmarinecenter.com), site of The OspreyRestaurant (207-371-2530), another local dining destination with a varied menuand water views.

The big shopping destination on Rt. 127, some 9 miles south of Rt. 1, isGeorgetown Pottery (georgetownpottery.com). While there are branches else-where, this showroom is worth a drive, with an extensive selection of practical,hand-painted pottery that’s created right here.

Rt. 127 curves east across the island and then splits. Seguinland Rd. leads to

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

109

Arrowsic/GeorgetownAttractions, activities, accommodations, eateries, etc.

Reid State Park, Georgetown Christina Tree

Phippsburg’s other road less taken leads to Small Point, which defines theeastern rim of Casco Bay. The legendary beaches here are mostly private, butunspoiled Sewall Beach is accessible by foot through the Morse Mountain Preserve (morseriver.com) from Rt. 216. Hermit Island Campground (hermitisland.com), with beach and a number of waterside tent sites, is a beloved phe-nomenon with a loyal following.


BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

110

Coveside B&B, Five Islands Lynn Karlin

Reid State Park (207-371-2303), withnearly 2 miles of beach, dunes, marsh,ledges, and ocean, also a saltwaterlagoon, good for small children. There’splenty of room here for everyone;parking areas and facilities are widelyspaced among Half Mile, Mile, andEast Beaches. Guests at local lodgingscan take advantage of free passes andtheir hosts’ advice on where to find theleast frigid water. Neighboring GreyHavens (207-371-2616; greyhavens.com), a vintage-1904 summer hotelbuilt by the park’s donor, has recentlyreceived a thorough and tasteful over-haul. Its classic “Blue” dining room isonce more an attractive dining spot.

Fifteen miles from Rt. 1, Rt. 127ends at a commercial lobster wharf andFive Islands Lobster and Grill (207-371-2990; fiveislandslobster.com). It’sall outdoors and all about steamed lob-sters and clams with corn and potatoes,

The Osprey Restaurant, Robinhood MarineCenter Christina Tree


lobster rolls, and fried seafood (BYOB). Just up the road look for Five IslandsFarm (fiveislandsfarm.com), a small shingled emporium selling wines, local pro-duce, and one of the region’s largest selections of Maine artisanal cheeses. Thegold at the end of this rainbow is, however, Coveside Bed and Breakfast (207-371-2807; covesidebandb.com). Tucked into a corner of quiet Gotts Cove, this isan exceptional hideaway with seven bright, comfortable rooms with water views.Sumptuous breakfasts are served, weather permitting, on a flower-filled patioabove a lawn that slopes invitingly to shaded Adirondack chairs on the shore. You won’t want to leave.

BRUNSW

ICK/B

ATH R

EGIO

N

111

Five Islands Farm Christina Tree


Documents

SAMPLE: Explorer's Guide Maine Coast & Islands, 2nd ed