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    Welcome to the world ofsake. If you are reading this pamphlet,

    you have likely already tastedsake or are keen to try it at least once.

    Japan boasts a proud 2,000-year history ofsake brewing.

    Sake has long been the drink of choice among Japanese, and now, as Japanese

    food enjoys extraordinary popularity abroad,sake is increasingly exported.

    Sake is made primarily from rice to which komekoji (moulded rice) and yeast

    is added to produce a brewed beverage with an alcohol content of 13-20%.

    Only the purest water sought throughout Japan is used in the production ofsake.

    The numerous varietals ofsake can be served either warm or cold.

    Japanese diners also enjoysake as a complement to meals.

    Rice that has koji-kin mould (Aspergillus oryzae) growing on

    it will act like malt and convert further rice (starch) to sugar.

    To help people around the world familiarise themselves with the world ofsake,

    we presentSakeAtoZ. This information is provided not only to guide

    readers in the pleasures ofsake, but also as an invitation to Japan,

    the birthplace of this wonderful elixir.

    Introduction

    This pamphlet is a compilation of WSETR

    Sake Seminar and Tasting that has held every year

    since 2003, with the cooperation of Wine & Spirit Education Trust. JAL has led and developed

    the WSETR Sake Seminar and Tasting with sakebreweries who participated. JAL as well as

    the sakebreweries wish sincerely to express gratitude to WSETR .

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    INDEX

    Sake in Context

    Defining SakeSakeon the Japanese Market

    SakeOverseas

    SakeVarietals

    Assessing QualitySake -TastingTasting Process

    Key Points in Sake-TastingConstituents and Related Indices

    Serving and Enjoying the Pleasures of SakeCharacteristics of SakeHow to Enjoy Sake

    Pairing Taste Characteristics and CuisineStoring Sake

    Brewing SakeBreweriesToji

    Sake IngredientsRiceWaterKomekojiMoulded riceBrewing Alcohol

    SakeProductionFermentationBrewingMain Production Methods

    History

    Reference Materials

    Other Resources

    03-05

    06-08

    09-11

    12-15

    16-17

    18-21

    22-28

    29

    Editor: Kimiko MASUDA

    Published by: Japan Airlines International Co.,Ltd.

    Copyright: C 2007 Japan Airlines International Co.,Ltd. All rights reserved

    Thanks to

    National Research Institute of Brewing

    Japan Sake Brewers Association

    SAKE WORLD, INC. John GAUNTNER

    Sake Service Institute

    KOKKI SHUZO Co.,Ltd.

    MASUDA SAKE COMPANY LTD.

    MIYASAKA BREWING COMPANY, LTD.

    Okunomatsu Sake Brewery Co.,Ltd.

    SHATA SHUZO Co.,Ltd.

    JAL Academy Co.,Ltd.

    Special thanks to

    David WRIGLEY MW AIWS of Wine & Spirit Education Trust

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  • 8/14/2019 sake make a vine

    4/32Sakein Context 4

    Defining SakeThe Liquor Tax Law in Japan defines and regulatessake as follows.

    Sakevarieties are defined as alcoholic beverages with an alcohol content

    of less than 22% made according to the following processes.

    a. Fermented and filtered alcoholic beverages made from rice, komekoji(moulded rice), and water.

    Rice that has koji-kin mould (Aspergillus oryzae) growing on it will act like malt and

    convert further rice (starch) to sugar.

    b. Fermented and filtered alcoholic beverages made from rice, komekoji

    (moulded rice), water, andsake lees or other substance authorized by

    Ministerial ordinance. (This ordinance stipulates that the total amount

    of other substance for use as primary ingredient be limited to no more

    than half the amount of rice [including komekoji] used in the product).

    c. Alcoholic beverages made by addingsake lees tosake and then filtering.

    Japans Liquor Tax Law strictly regulates the ingredients that may be

    used to produce sake, which must include rice, and stipulates that the

    final product must be filtered.

    Sake on the Japanese MarketIn a global comparison, the Japanese do not rank particularly high as alcohol consumers. In a 2003 compari-

    son of per capita consumption of alcoholic beverages (100% alcohol content conversion), Japan came in 29th

    at 6.5 litres consumed, a figure roughly half that of Luxemburg, the country with the highest alcohol con-

    sumption per capita.

    The picture is similar with regard to liquor taxes. Some 1.53 trillion yen in liquor taxes were collected

    (excluding imports) in 2005, down 70 billion yen from the previous year. Liquor taxes break down by type of

    alcohol as indicated in Graph 1 below.

    2005Beer 844.0 billion yen52.8

    Other 38.8 billion yen2.4Whiskeys 28.7 billion yen1.8

    Sake95.0 billion yen5.9

    Liqueurs 60.8 billion yen3.8

    Shochu226.9 billion yen14.2

    Sparkling liquor

    305.3 billion yen19.1

    Beer 800.4 billion yen52.3

    Other 93.4 billion yen6.1Whiskeys 27.7 billion yen1.8

    Sake91.8 billion yen6.0

    Liqueurs 63.5 billion yen4.2

    Shochu227.0 billion yen

    14.8

    Sparkling liquor 225.9 billion yen

    14.8

    2004

    2005

    Graph Liquor Taxes by CategoryFY2004 and FY2005

    Sake accounts for 6.0% of the liquor taxes collected overall. The 91.8 billion yen in tax for 2005

    represents a drop of 3.2 billion yen (-3.4%) from the 95 billion yen collected the previous year.

    Sake in Context

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    5/325 Sakein Context

    In terms of volume sold (consumption), the 9.02 million kilolitres (9.04 million kl the previous year) of alco-

    holic beverages moved in 2005 represents a drop of 20,000 kilolitres from 2004. The breakdown of sales vol-

    ume (consumption) by category is presented below.

    Sake OverseasAs yet, only about 1% of thesake produced in Japan is exported abroad, though this figure has continuously

    increased over the past several years. Export volumes have exhibited 6-8% growth since 2002, reaching

    10,000kl in 2006. Total export values enjoyed greater than 10% year-on-year growth over this same time peri-

    od, coming in at 6.1 billion yen in 2006.

    As Graph 3 illustrates, half of all exports from Japan are destined for the US and Taiwan.

    Taiwan20

    the US32

    the UK3

    Germany3

    China4

    Others24

    Hong Kong9

    Canada5

    2006

    Graph 3 SakeExport Volume Country Share in 2006

    Other 0.48 million kl5.3

    Beer 3.41 million kl37.8

    Sparkling liquor 1.68 million kl

    18.6

    Other 0.46 million kl5.1

    Beer 3.62 million kl40.0

    Powdered liquor and other miscellaneous liquors 0.9 million kl10.0

    Powdered liquor and other miscellaneous liquors 0.23 million kl2.6

    Whiskeys 0.09 million kl1.0

    Liqueurs 0.74 million kl8.2

    Sake0.75 million kl8.2

    Liqueurs 0.69 million kl7.7

    Whiskeys 0.1 million kl1.1

    Sake0.72 million kl8.0

    Shochu0.98 million kl10.9

    Shochu1.0 million kl11.1

    Sparkling liquor 2.21 million kl

    24.5

    2005

    2004

    Graph 2 SakeSales (Consumption) Volume by CategoryFY2004 and FY2005

    Sales (consumption) ofsake totalled 0.72 million kilolitres in 2005, down 30,000kl (or - 4.0%)

    from the 0.75 million kilolitres in sales the previous year. Despite this drop, sake accounts for

    8.0% of overall sales (consumption) for all alcoholic beverages in 2005.

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  • 8/14/2019 sake make a vine

    7/327 SakeVarietals

    SakeVarietalsSake falls into several different categories, and the following are special denominations specified by the

    Japanese government.

    Products that satisfy the various requirements for special denominations are labelled as such.

    Denomination Ingredients Other featuresMilling rate % of komekoji

    Table 1 Special Denominations for Sake

    Ginjo-shu

    Daiginjo-shu

    Junmai-shu

    Junmai-Ginjo-shu

    Junmai-Daiginjo-shu

    Tokubetsu-Junmai-shu

    Honjozo-shu

    Tokubetsu-Honjozo-shu

    Rice, komekoji(moulded

    rice), and brewing alcohol

    Rice, komekoji(moulded

    rice), and brewing alcohol

    Rice and

    komekoji(moulded rice)

    Rice and

    komekoji(moulded rice)

    Rice and

    komekoji(moulded rice)

    Rice and

    komekoji(moulded rice)

    Rice, komekoji(moulded

    rice), and brewing alcohol

    Rice, komekoji(moulded

    rice), and brewing alcohol

    Ginjo-tsukurimethod, characteristic

    flavor, and color clarity

    Ginjo-tsukurimethod, characteristic

    flavor, and high color clarity

    Good flavor and color clarity

    Ginjo-tsukurimethod, characteristic

    flavor, and color clarity

    Ginjo-tsukurimethod, characteristic

    flavor, and high color clarity

    Good flavor and high color clarity

    Good flavor and color clarity

    Good flavor and high color clarity

    Up to 60%

    Up to 50%

    Up to 60%

    Up to 50%

    Up to 60% or special

    process

    Up to 70%

    Up to 60% or special

    process

    15% and over

    Ginjo-tsukuri generally refers to the process of using highly polished rice and fermenting thesake at cold tem-

    peratures to create a characteristic fragrance.

    Special denominations account for approximately a quarter of all domestic taxed shipments and break down

    specifically as illustrated in Chart 1 below.

    SakeVarietals

    This chart has been created by sake educator John Gauntner, www.sake-world.com .

    CopyrightC2006, all rights reserved.

    Chart 1

    11.8% 7.2%

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    Ginjo-shu

    Sake made using white rice that has been milled to retain 60% or less of the grain. It also contains komekoji

    (moulded rice) and water, and may contain all of these ingredients plus brewing alcohol. Characterized by a

    fruity, somewhat floral bouquet, thissake has a clear, crisp flavour. When the rice has been polished down to

    50% or less, thesake is calledJunmai-shu

    Sake made only from white rice, komekoji (moulded rice), and water. It tends to have a mellow bouquet and a rich,

    smooth flavour.

    Honjozo-shu

    Sake made using white rice that has been milled to retain 70% or less of the grain, along with komekoji

    (moulded rice), brewing alcohol, and water. It is known for its mild, unobtrusive bouquet, and a crisp taste.

    Sakevarieties are also distinguished by brewing method.

    Namazake

    Sake that is not heated for pasteurization after the moromi has been pressed. It is characterized by a light,

    fresh flavour.

    Moromi refers to the soft mash mixture of fermented brewage ingredients contained in the liquid brewed to createsake.

    Sake is generally heated for pasteurization (the process called hi-ire) twice before being sold.Namazake is

    never pasteurized.Nama-chozo shu is bottledsake pasteurized only once after reaching the maturation stage.

    Nama-zume shu is bottled sake pasteurized once before reaching maturation stage. All three sake varieties

    have a fresh flavour and are best served cooled.

    General Sake Namazake Nama-zume shuLive bottled Sake

    Figure 1 Varietal Differences According to Hi-IreProcess (Heating for Pasteurization)

    Nama-chozo shuLive storage Sake

    Fermentation

    Pressing

    Filtration

    Hi-IreHeating for Pasteurization

    Storage

    Filtration

    Hi-IreHeating for Pasteurization

    Bottling

    Fermentation

    Pressing

    Filtration

    Hi-IreHeating for Pasteurization

    Storage

    Filtration

    Bottling

    Fermentation

    Pressing

    Filtration

    Namastorage

    Filtration

    Hi-IreHeating for Pasteurization

    Bottling

    Fermentation

    Pressing

    Filtration

    Namastorage

    Bottling

    Genshu

    Sakewith a higher alcohol content that comes from pressing but not diluting with added water. It has a deep,

    rich flavour and an alcohol content ranging from 17% to 20%.

    KoshuAgedsake

    Sake that has been aged for two or three years, or for five years or more. It has a sherry-like bouquet, with a

    bouquet that includes spices and nuts.

    TaruzakeCask sake

    Sake that is aged in casks and thus takes on the fragrance of the wood from which the cask is made.

    Nigorizake

    A milky whitesakewhose colour derives from only lightly filtering the mash through a coarse cloth.

    Sparkling sake

    Carbonatedsake, with a feel in the mouth reminiscent of champagne.

    Hi-irepasteurization process

    C Okunomatsu Sake Brewery Co.,Ltd.

    Bottling

    C Okunomatsu Sake Brewery Co.,Ltd.

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  • 8/14/2019 sake make a vine

    10/32Assessing Quality 10

    Sake-TastingMade primarily from rice,sake in fact contains some 700 constituents created in the sophisticated, advanced

    processes by which it is produced. There are easily more than 5,000 brands ofsake, offering countless differ-

    ent tastes. Learning to identify these differences greatly enhances the pleasure of the sake experience.

    Judgingsake by taste is a technique for objectively analysing and evaluating the flavours and characteristics ofa particularsake, then conveying the result in easy descriptions. Determining whether the sake is good or bad

    is a multi-sensory personal experience requiring the senses of sight, smell and taste.

    The four main elements that make up the taste ofsake are sweetness, acidity, bitterness, and umami. Tasting

    also involves an additional nine major components, among these, temperature, aroma, mouth feel, balance

    and finish. Sake tasting begins with committing to memory the colour, taste, and aroma of favouritesakes. The

    ability to identify each taste element and describe these to a third party requires all five senses, as well as the

    proper vocabulary and phrases at ones disposal. For example, comparing the aroma ofsake to plants, fruits

    and grains allows for extremely nuanced turns of phrase.

    Sake tasting necessarily begins with the eye before moving on to the nose and finally the mouth. It is impor-

    tant that one proceeds in this order to avoid compromising ones sensitivity to the fragrance, which occurs

    when thesake is swallowed immediately. Reaching the sipping stage, the sake is rolled over the tongue to

    slowly savour the subtle flavours. Allowing thesake to linger on the tongue, rather than swallowing it down at

    once, greatly enhances ones ability to identify various taste elements. Beginners may initially find it difficult

    to identify and assesssake characteristics by taste. Rest assured that a more refinedsake palate develops with

    practice. One must first identify the characteristics and elements of favourite sakes, which will gradually take

    shape and providesake lovers with a personal system.

    Tasting Process1.Look Pour the sake into the kikichoko (special sake tasting cup). Look at the

    colour and check for foreign substances to assess the cloudiness.Kikichoko are

    designed specifically to make it easier to observe the different shades and colour

    clarity of a particularsake.

    2.Smell Keeping the kikichoko as still as possible, bring the sake to your nose and

    inhale the aroma in small sniffs. Identify the aromatic characteristics with close atten-

    tion to the strength, breadth, and continuity/endurance of the aroma. The aroma experienced at this time is called

    uwadachi-ka, the initial fragrance when thesake aroma is inhaled.

    3.Taste Take a small amount of thesake into the mouth, paying close attention to the initial impression thesake

    leaves on the tip of the tongue. Next, concentrate on the fragrance while exhaling through the nose. The aroma

    experienced at this time is called fukumi-ka, the fragrance and flavour when drinking a few drops ofsake.

    Slowly roll thesake over the tongue to experience its sweetness, acidity, bitterness, and umami. As thesake

    moves over the tongue, concentrate on the sensations throughout the entire mouth, as well as on the tongue.

    This step allows for the discovery of a great many more taste characteristics than initially imagined.

    Finally, swallow thesake, allowing it to slide down the throat to check the finish. Devoutsake tasters spit thesake

    out without swallowing to assess thesakes aftertaste, its harmony of tastes, and pleasant or unpleasant finish.

    Key Points in Sake-TastingSake is meant to be pure pleasure, so the best way to assesssake is to drink and taste it. Experts/sommeliers

    take thesesake-tasting steps to evaluate individualsakes from various perspectives. The key elements used to

    assess the quality ofsake are listed below.

    Colour Colour is assessed for its depth and clarity. The interior of the kikichoko cup is lined with concentric

    blue circles to help tasters gauge the colour and clarity of thesake.

    Aroma Sake has certain identifiable fragrances.Namazake imparts a fresh aroma;ginjo-shu a fruity or a mature,

    well-mellowed aroma. In either case, the aroma of thesake is assessed for its intensity and degree of harmony.

    Taste:Body Taste is described as either full-bodied or clean. Sakes with higher alcohol content, sugar con-

    tent, acidity, and amino acids will fall toward the full-bodied end of the scale, while those with less of these ele-

    ments will taste cleaner.

    Taste:Sweet/Dry Taste is also described as sweet or dry. Sake contains 4-7% sugar content. Sakes on the

    higher end of this scale will have a sweeter taste and those on the lower end a drier taste. Sake, however, also

    contains acidity in the 0.05-0.15% range, which offsets the sweetness imparted by the sugar. Sakes with identi-

    cal sugar content will therefore vary in taste depending on their acidity.

    Taste:Purity The final aspect of taste is purity versuszatsumi (off-flavour). Large amounts of amino acids

    tend to introducezatsumi as thesake matures.

    Assessing Quality

    Kikichoko

    C National ResearchInstitute of Brewing

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    Constituents and Related IndicesAlcohol Content

    This index, expressed in degrees, indicates how many millilitres of alcohol are contained in 100 millilitres of

    sake.

    Nihonshu-do (Sake Meter Value)

    Nihonshu-do provides an easy numerical indication of the degree of sweetness or dryness ofsake(positive+

    values for increasingly dry and negativevalues for increasingly sweet).

    The Nihonshu-do provides numerical values that indicate the specific gravity ofsakes and, when combined

    with alcohol content, it allows for calculations of the extract content (mostly sugar content) in thesake. Sakes

    with lowNihonshu-do are generally sweetsakes with a high extract content. On the contrary,sakes with high

    Nihonshu-do are generally drysakes with low extract content.

    Sakes with a negativeNihonshu-do have a higher sugar content, making them sweeter. Conversely, sakes

    with a positive+Nihonshu-do are drier. However, alcohol content changes specific gravity, which makes this

    element another important factor in judging the quality ofsake. Moreover, the acid content in sake tends to

    mask its sweetness, which is what indicates the acidity or dryness of thesake

    . It is therefore difficult to classi-

    fy asake as sweet or dry based onNihonshu-do alone.

    Acidity

    Acidity indicates the amount of lactic, succinate, malic, and other organic acids contained in the sake. Acidity

    affects how sweet or dry thesake tastes, as well as the fullness of the body. Higher degrees of acidity produce

    drier, more full-bodiedsakes.

    Amino acid degree

    Amino acid degree indicates the amount of glutamic and other amino acids contained in the sake. Amino acid

    degree affects the breadth, richness and other aspects of taste. Higher amino acid degree delivers a more full-

    bodied, rich-tasting (greaterumami)sake, with lower amino acid degree imparting a cleaner, mellower taste.

    Dry

    Sugarcontent

    Sugarcontent

    Organicacids

    Organicacids

    Aminoacids

    Alcoholcontent

    Aminoacids

    Alcoholcontent

    Faint

    Pure Sweet

    Intense

    Zatsumioff-flavour

    Clean sake taste Full-bodiedsake taste

    Sakevarietal

    Source: Ingredients in Marketed Alcoholic Beverages: Fiscal Year 2005, National Tax Agency JAPAN

    Number of samples

    Ginjo-shu

    Table 2 Constituents in Sake-FY2005 (Nationwide totals)

    Alcohol content

    Nihonshu-do

    Acidity

    Amino acid degree

    Average value

    Average value

    Average value

    Average value

    315

    15.8

    4.0

    1.4

    1.4

    Junmai-shu

    262

    15.4

    3.4

    1.5

    1.8

    Honjozo-shu

    236

    15.4

    3.7

    1.3

    1.5

    399

    15.3

    2.7

    1.2

    1.3

    Other

    Figure 2 SakeConstituents and Taste Characteristics

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  • 8/14/2019 sake make a vine

    13/3213 Serving and Enjoying the Pleasures of Sake

    Characteristics of SakeSake is a sophisticated drink with a vast array of noteworthy characteris-

    tics.

    Characteristics Determining Quality,

    and Origin of Distinguishing PropertiesMuch of the variety in fragrance and taste found in the sake brewed

    today originates in the differences between methods of production

    (the differences betweenginjo-shu and honjozo-shu, for example).

    Flavour, fragrance and other elements of quality change easily.

    By skilfully manipulating micro-organisms, sake brewers produce

    desired by-products that create a variety of aromatic constituents.

    The Proper Setting

    Sake has the greatest range of ideal drinking temperatures of any alco-

    holic beverage. (It should be noted thatsake is most commonly drunk

    warm.)

    Sake is also a great complement to almost any meal. In very few

    instances does sake accentuate the negative aspects of the food.

    (These negatives may include the fishy smell of seafood, the harsh-

    ness contained in vegetables, and the distinctive smell and taste of fer-

    mented foods, for example).

    Aroma and Taste Characteristics

    Sake may not offer as much variety of aroma and taste as other types

    of alcoholic beverages, but it is characterised by a deep, nuanced taste

    and complex aroma with many subtle undertones.

    Sweetness and umami are the most basic of the elements that make

    up the taste ofsake.

    Aged Sake

    Certain sakes are better when aged, while others should be enjoyed

    just after bottling.

    The aroma and taste ofsake that has been aged over a long period of

    time is entirely different than that of freshly bottled sake. Mostsake

    reaches peak quality when aged from six to twelve months. This peri-

    od of maturation also releases the unique properties of eachsake.

    How to Enjoy SakeSake is exceptional among alcoholic beverages in that it can be enjoyed

    either hot or cold. It may be served warm, chilled, or at room tempera-

    ture. This unique versatility gives sake a wider drinking range than

    other liquors, from 5oC (41oF) to 55oC (131oF).

    The custom of drinking kan-zake, or warmedsake, became commonplace at the end of the 17th century andcontinues to be popular in Japan today. Sakes unique versatility with regard to serving temperature makes

    this a matter of personal preference, though most Japanese find thatsake tastes best close to body tempera-

    ture (35-40oC or 95-104oF) or slightly higher (45- 50oC or 113-122oF). Before serving, thesake is poured into a

    ceramic tokkuri flask or achirori pot (designed specifically for heating sake) and warmed to the precise tem-

    perature desired.

    Sake may be served in glassware, as well as traditional cups made of ceramic, porcelain or lacquer. The diver-

    sity of shapes and materials serves to enrich the experience of the varioussakevarietals. Selecting the perfect

    cup for the specific temperature at which the sakewill be served is an additional pleasure that enhances the

    experience of thesake itself.

    The pleasures of drinkingsake are derived from the wide range of tastes and ways in which it can be served.

    Choices are made from among the many possibilities to suit the season and the cuisine with which it is

    paired. Sakes many flavours make it an ideal base for cocktails, as well.

    Sake complements cuisines from all over the world and all manner of ingredients and cooking styles. In Japan,

    it is served at French, Italian and other restaurants offering Western cuisine.

    Sake brings out the flavour of the food, while at the same time also tempering the strong aromas of beef and

    seafood. It can be used as a preparation or seasoning in both Japanese and Western cooking, as well.

    Serving and Enjoying thePleasures of Sake

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    Pairing Taste Characteristics and CuisineSake exhibits four taste elements-sweetness/dryness, saltiness, acidity, and bitterness-as well as umami. The

    recent scientific discovery that the entire human tongue is capable of sensing these five elements is further proof

    thatsake should be allowed to sit on top of the tongue to fully experience all aspects of its flavour. Pairing it with

    food further enhances this experience. Sake is best enjoyed by sipping it slowly during a good meal.

    Water

    Alcohol

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    6

    Table Effect of SakeConstituents on Food

    In addition to prolonging the taste experience, the water in sakedilutes the aroma and taste of salt, umami

    content and spices in food.

    In addition to blending in most animal and vegetable fats and oils, the alcohol in sakealso helps soften

    protein compounds.

    Acetic acid

    Acetic acid works on fat and proteins, breaking down and bringing out the umami content of these

    ingredients. In addition to buffering salt content and mellowing its sharpness, the acetic acid in sakealso

    works to kill off unwanted bacteria in foods.

    SugarsIn addition to cleansing the palate to allow for purer food tastes, the sugar in sakealso softens the acidity

    of foods and tones down astringency and bitterness.

    Amino acids The amino acids in sakeenhance the taste of food, blend aftertastes, and exhilarate the palate.

    Astringency,

    bitterness

    Sakealso helps tone down smells and boost food flavours. It offsets the harshness and astringency in food,

    leaving the palate exhilarated. Sakeconsolidates flavours, making it the perfect complement to a meal.

    Next, let us turn to the effectssake constituents have on specific dishes.

    Notes on Pairing Sakewith Different Cuisines

    The aroma and taste ofsake will leave a stable impression in the mouth

    regardless of the amount of salt in any particular food.

    The aroma-taste balance ofsake remains unchanged even when drunk in

    combination with sweet foods.

    Sake almost entirely masks the fishy smell given off by seafood. Drinking

    sakewith fish roe masks any strange tastes or smells the roe may give off.

    The flavours ofsake do not compete with those of fermented foods, pickles,

    and other favouritesake snacks. These flavours provide a subtle, delicate bal-

    ance to soy sauce and miso, as well.

    Neither dosake flavours interfere with the taste of fresh fruit.

    Sake taste elements are not overpowered bywasabi, mustard or other strong

    spices.

    The amino acids insake enhance the savouriness of most seafood and meats.

    Sake does not overwhelm the taste or texture of foods with little or no flavour

    (such as water shields or tofu).

    Sake brings out the unique undertones that hide behind the harshness in cer-

    tain vegetables.

    These are just a few examples of the unique propertiessake brings to food that

    no other type of alcoholic beverage can.

    This amazing versatility as a complement to nearly every type of cuisine can actu-

    ally make selecting the appropriatesake for a meal quite confusing for many peo-

    ple. Fortunately, there are no hard and fast rules, and personal favourites are gen-

    erally fine to serve with any dish. We suggest experimenting with the countless

    sakevarietals and numerous modes of serving them to find what works for you.

    Select different sake varietals for different courses

    Pair different types ofsakes with individual dishes over a multi-course meal. Begin

    with a highly aromaticginjo-shu or lightly sparkling nigorizake (coarsely filtered

    cloudysake ). As the meal proceeds, move on to varietals that cleanse the palateand those that are not overwhelmed by intensely flavourful foods, as well as

    warmedsake to expand the tastes that remain in the mouth after a satisfying meal.

    Sake is the perfect complement to sushi - an alcoholic beverage that does not

    draw ones attention to the fishy smell of seafood and whose taste is not over-

    powered by the spiciness ofwasabi.

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    15/3215 Serving and Enjoying the Pleasures of Sake

    Storing SakeA delicate alcoholic beverage,sake is extremely sensitive to light and heat and should be stored in a cool, dark

    place.

    Sake breweries handle all aspects from brewing and bottling sake through shipping it to market, taking

    extreme care to see that thesake is stored at the proper temperature at every stage of the process. During dis-

    tribution, at the wholesaler, retailer, and even after consumer purchase, however, the quality of the sake may

    be compromised.Temperature and light are the two most important aspects of handling and storing sake. High temperatures or

    sudden changes in temperature tend to compromise quality. Sake is also extremely sensitive to direct sunlight

    and should not be placed in direct sunlight for even short periods of time.

    Occasionally, a retailer or liquor shop may place sake in displays vulnerable to direct sunlight. The high tem-

    peratures in combination with the sunlight in these displays make for the worst conditions for maintaining

    sake quality. Retailers have recently begun to introduce remedies, such as lining the glass doors of refrigerat-

    ed showcases with specialty film to protectsake from UV rays.

    In general,sake reaches store shelves just at peak drinking time. Bottles ofsake stored at home under ordi-

    nary conditions will lose quality over time and should be enjoyed soon after they are purchased.

    At home, non-pasteurised namazake should be kept in the refrigerator and consumed as soon as possible.

    Sake that has undergone hi-ire pasteurisation by heat should be kept in a cool place, preferably under 15 oC

    (59oF). Sakewill oxidize once opened. Oxidation will compromise the quality, but rarely the lactic acid bacte-

    ria (hiochi-kin) alter the aroma of thesake. Refrigeration is also recommended.

    The bottled date forsake is not absolute. Under ordinary conditions, the quality of pasteurised sake remains

    unaffected for two to three months. When drinking non-pasteurised namazake, however, the more recent the

    bottled date, the better.

    Tastesakes from the same brewery

    Some breweries produce a number of different brands, each under a separate process. Different varietals of

    the same brands may be produced from different types of rice using different methods to create a subtle vari-

    ety of tastes. Sampling thesakes of a single brewery with their guidance is an excellent way to learn to identi-

    fy the unique properties and subtle characteristics of individualsakes.

    Enjoysakes available only at certain times of the year

    Sake is a largely seasonal pleasure. The winter to spring months, the most pro-

    lificsake-brewing period, are the ideal time to enjoy non-pasteurised (not heat-

    ed under the hi-ire process), slightly sparklingsakes, as well as freshly bottled

    namazake. With a little luck, you just may be able to tastesake pressed earlier

    the same day and poured directly from the barrel on a brewery tour.

    Summer is the season for the exhilarating and refreshing flavours of clean

    sakes served chilled. The cooler temperatures in early autumn make this sea-

    son ideal forhiyaoroshi,sake aged in storage through the spring and summer

    and shipped cold with no need to heat for sterilization. Sake aged in spring

    and summer mellows, bringing its distinctive umami to the fore.

    During the winter, kan-zake (warmed sake ) not only warms the body, buthighlights the pure delicious taste ofsake.

    The vast array ofsakevarietals and modes of serving are a source of infinite

    pleasure throughout the year.

    Sakebags hung to drip

    C KOKKI SHUZO Co.,Ltd.

    C KOKKI SHUZO Co.,Ltd.

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    17/3217 Brewing Sake

    BreweriesThere are 2,087sake breweries spread across Japan,with breweries producing

    sake in every prefecture from Hokkaido to Okinawa, with the exception of

    Kagoshima. Breweries have long been identified by their characteristic white

    walls and tile roofs, though recent trends have seen an increasing number ofmodern structures replacing the traditionalsake brewery architecture.

    Source: Sake Notes (Number of Certified Breweries FY2004, National Tax Agency JAPAN)

    TojiThe innumerable methods for brewing and handlingsake are all complex, delicate processes. The toji, the

    head brewer at asake brewery, directs these processes as they are carried out by the kurabito (technicians

    involved in thesake-brewing process) working under him. Today, toji and kurabito are both referred to with

    the same appellation,shuzo ginosha (skilledsake brewers). The majority oftoji are certified, under a national

    certification system, in the sake-brewing processes at the highest level. The toji s responsibilities, however,

    extend well beyond the actual brewing. They also oversee the kurabito and manage the brewery floor. It is

    therefore essential that, in addition to having mastered every technical aspect of brewing, thattoji be decisive

    men or women of character with strong leadership qualities and generalists who are good administrators. It

    is not every brewer who meets these stringent standards required of the toji.

    Brewingsake, the art of rigorously controlling koji-kin (Aspergillus oryzae), yeast and other microorganisms

    with a delicate, skillful touch, is not easily mastered. Ancientsake-brewing techniques and skills have been

    passed down over many generations and inherited by those in toji guilds across Japan.

    Ultimate responsibility for the finalsake products lies with the toji. This essential position is, however, becom-

    ing more difficult to fill. Traditionally, most oftoji and kurabitowere farmers who worked on the farm during

    the summer and in the brewery during the winter. As the number of farmers in Japan declines, we find fewer

    young people who dream of mastering the skills to be toji. Thesake industry is striving to secure future gen-erations oftoji and exploring ways to restructure the industry to provide year-round employment.

    Currently, 983 toji are registered with the Japanese Federation of Toji Guilds, an umbrella group for all toji

    guilds across the country, along with 820sanyaku and 1,960 general kurabito. The average age oftoji mem-

    bers is 56.2 years.

    Sanyaku includes toji or assistant to toji, chief in komekoji(moulded rice) making, and chief inshubo (sakeyeast starter) making.

    Although certain breweries do operate year-round producingsake, brewingsake is generally a seasonal affair.

    Beginning in autumn, brewing peaks during the coldest months of winter and ends when the longer days

    usher in spring. Long ago, breweries hung sakabayashi, large round balls of tightly bound Japanese cedar

    leaves, from the eaves in front of the door to announce to neighbourhoodsake-lovers that a new batch ofsake

    was ready. Thesakabayashi no longer serves this purpose for customers, but has been adopted as the symbol

    of the Japanesesake brewery.

    As part of the 2,000-year history ofsake-brewing, Japanese breweries boast a long, proud history in their own

    right. A number have been operating for 200 or 300 years, or even longer, and some have been handed down

    from generation to generation, remaining in the same family to this day. Sake breweries are spread through-

    out Japan. Some open their doors to the public for tours. Others have been converted to restaurants that

    serve the local cuisine, while still others are designated historical landmarks or feature museums exhibiting

    traditionalsake-brewing tools and accessories. Visit the breweries that make your favourite sakes. Who

    knows? You may even glimpse the secrets behind their great taste.

    Brewerys characteristic white walls and tile roofsC National Research Institute of Brewing

    SakabayashiC National Research Institute of Brewing

    Sakabayashihanging from the eaves infront of brewery door

    C MASUDA SAKE COMPANY LTD.

    Brewing Sake

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    19/3219 SakeIngredients

    RiceJapan currently cultivates 276 varieties of rice. It is these domestically

    grown varieties that are one of the main ingredients ofsake. Certain

    rice varieties calledshuzo kotekimai (rice forsake brewing regulated by

    agricultural produce standards), are more conducive than others tosake-brewing and result in superiorsakes. Source: Crop Status by Rice

    Variety Produced FY2005, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Japan

    Over the 2005 brewing year (July 2005 June 2006), 273,000 tons of

    brown rice were polished to 187,000 tons and used to brewsake. Most

    varieties ofshuzo kotekimai are large grained rice (1,000 grains weigh-

    ing more than 26 grams) that contain a cloudy white centre called the

    shimpaku. This type of rice is used in sake-brewing because it lends

    itself to the making komekoji (moulded rice) process.Komekoji is then

    blended into the moromi (mainsake mash) to help catalyse the alcohol

    fermentation process.

    In addition toyamadanishiki, long the most popular brand ofsake rice

    in Japan, new varieties ofsake rice have recently been developed, and

    older types are being revived throughout the country.

    Yamadanishiki rice: Especially well-suited to produce the highly aro-

    matic fragrance ofdaiginjo-shu.

    Gohyakumangoku rice: This famous sake rice comes from Niigata

    Prefecture and the Hokuriku region.

    Miyamanishiki rice: A hardy, enduring variety, this rice is grown in the

    harsher climates in northern Japan.

    Omachi rice: One of the oldest varieties ofsake rice. The distinctive

    expansive taste it imparts to sake makes Omachi rice a perennial

    favourite.

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    Sakerice

    Source:Crop Status by Rice Variety Produced FY2005, Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Japan

    Table rice

    Table 4 Top Five Rice Varieties by Area Planted for Crops

    Rice variety name

    Yamadanishiki

    Gohyakumangoku

    Miyamanishiki

    Hyogo-yumenishiki

    Omachi

    Rice variety name

    Koshihikari

    Hitomebore

    Hinohikari

    Akitakomachi

    Kinuhikari

    Area planted (ha)

    4,781

    4,324

    1,394

    390

    358

    Percentage of total areaplanted for crops(%)

    Percentage of total areaplanted for crops (%)

    Area planted (ha)

    556,345

    154,929

    150,779

    131,751

    49,304

    32.6

    29.5

    9.5

    2.7

    2.4

    38.0

    10.6

    10.3

    9.0

    3.4

    Stalks of rice

    C National Research Institute of Brewing

    Rice plants drying in the sun after harvestC KOKKI SHUZO Co.,Ltd.

    Sakerice (shuzo kotekimai)

    C National Research Institute of BrewingYamadanishikirice

    C National Research Institute of Brewing

    Sake Ingredients

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    The outer husk of unrefined brown rice contains fats, minerals, and proteins that compromise the taste of

    sake. The rice is therefore milled, and the husk discarded. It is the innershimpaku that is used insake-brew-

    ing. In most cases, the outer third of the husk is discarded, leaving a grain two-thirds its original size, though

    for varietals such asginjo-shu, twice this amount is removed. This process may generate waste, but it is essen-

    tial to producing good-tastingsake.

    Table 5 Water Requirements for Sake-Brewing

    Complexion

    Smell/Taste

    pH

    Iron/Manganese

    Organic substances

    Nitrite-nitrogen

    Ammoniac nitrogen

    Bacterial acidity

    Lactic acid bacteria and coliform bacteria

    Colourless and transparent

    No discernable odour or taste

    Neutral or slightly alkaline

    0.02 ppm or less

    5.0 ppm or less

    Undetected

    Undetected

    0.5 ml or less

    ND

    WaterPure water is the other essential ingredient in creatingsake and is used at a ten-to-one ratio to polished rice.

    This water has a significant effect on the production method and the quality of the resulting sake. It is there-

    fore held to much more stringent standards than tap water. Sake breweries are frequently established in

    areas known for their pure spring water. The two most prominentsake-producing regions are Nada (Hyogo

    Prefecture) and Fushimi (Kyoto Prefecture), two of the countrys 100 best water sources as designated byJapans Ministry of the Environment.

    Water can contain elements that are unsuitable for producing good sake. Iron, though a necessary metallic

    element for humans that is essential to the red haemoglobin in blood, tends to change the colour ofsake a

    reddish brown and compromise the fragrance and taste. The quality standard for iron is 0.3ppm or less for

    tap water. In brewing sake, however, only water with less than one-tenth that amount is used. Fortunately,

    natural springs throughout the country provide the high-quality water needed to brew superiorsake.

    Milling RateSeimaibuai% 100

    Automatic rice mill

    C National Research Institute of Brewing

    (From left) Brown rice; polished rice with 1/3

    of husk removed; polished rice with 2/3 ofhusk removed.

    C National Research Institute of Brewing

    C SHATA SHUZO Co., Ltd.

    Polished rice weight (kg)

    Brown rice weight (kg)

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    21/3221 SakeIngredients

    KomekojiMoulded riceKoji-kin (Aspergillus oryzae) bred in white rice converts the starch in white rice

    to sugar.

    A beneficial mould used in the manufacture ofmiso and soy sauce, as well, it is

    koji-kin that breaks the starch insake rice.To make komekoji, koji-kin spores (seeds) are sprinkled over steamed rice. Left

    alone, these spores soon germinate and form fungal threads. In a few days

    time, the koji-kinwill have covered the steamed rice entirely.

    Once it reaches this stage, the rice is called komekoji (moulded rice). As the

    koji-kin grows in its rice host, enzyme proteins are created and are cultivated

    inside the komekoji. Invisible to the naked eye, enzymes in komekoji function

    as microscopic scissors capable of shredding the starch in the steamed rice

    fermented with komekoji.

    Koji-kin is a mould, and as such, it thrives in warm temperatures. A corner of

    eachsake brewery contains akoji-muro, a heated room dedicated to the cultiva-

    tion ofkomekoji. It is here that the steamed rice and koji-kin is placed for a few

    days to develop into komekoji.

    Koji-kinspores

    C National Research Instituteof Brewing

    Brewing AlcoholBrewing alcohol is the term for alcohol brewed from starches and sugars. Adding alcohol to the moromi sake

    mash not only enhances the aroma, but also produces a refreshing, clean sake. The addition of alcohol also

    inhibits the cultivation of lactic acid bacteria (putrefactive hiochi-kin bacteria), which tends to compromise the

    flavours ofsake.

    The amount of brewing alcohol added to ginjo-shu and honjozo-shu is limited to 10% or less of the amount of

    polished rice used in brewing.

    The brewing alcohol pullsginjo-shu and honjozo-shu flavours into balance and enhances the fragrance of some

    sakes. The latter is especially true ofginjo-shu.

    Koji-kinvarietals (spores of mould) C National Research Institute of Brewing

    From left

    Yellow koji-kinfor brewing sake

    White koji-kinfor making shochu

    Black koji-kinfor making awamori

    Yellow koji-kinfor making soy sauce

    First dayC National Research Institute of Brewing

    Second dayC National Research Institute of Brewing

    Making komekoji

    C KOKKI SHUZO Co.,Ltd.

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    23/3223 SakeProduction

    FermentationThoughsake is a brewed alcohol like wine and beer, the brewing process forsake is complex.

    Yeast, a tiny living organism measuring 5-8 microns (1 micron is 1/1000 of 1 mm), carries out alcohol fermen-

    tation. Yeast propagates quickly, doubling its numbers in two to three hours under the proper conditions. The

    fermentation tank is filled with pure water andshubo (sakeyeast starter), and steamed rice that has cooled toroom temperature is added to this mixture.

    Unlike wine, which naturally ferments when yeast is added to pressed grapes, simply addingshubo is not suffi-

    cient to start the alcohol fermentation that produces sake. To brewsake, the starch in steamed rice must be

    converted to alcohol. Made up of hundreds of glucose strands, this starch is too large for the microscopic yeast

    particles, which are unable to break the starch down and spark the alcohol fermentation process unaided.

    It is this that makes it necessary to add the komekoji (moulded rice) that converts rice starch to sugar. The

    rice then begins to ferment when yeast is added to this sugar. Because the saccharification and fermentation

    processes occur simultaneously in the same container, the process is called multiple parallel fermentation.

    Image of yeast under the electronmicrograph

    C National Research Institute of Brewing

    Sake Production

    Sakerice

    Starch

    Komekoji

    Diastatic enzymeYeast

    Yeast

    Sugar

    Glucose

    Sake

    Alcohol, Carbon dioxide

    Grapes

    Sugar=Glucose

    Saccharification Alcohol fermentation

    Alcohol fermentation

    Wine

    Alcohol, Carbon dioxide

    Sake

    Wine

    Sake Fermentation Process

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    Brewing1Rice Milling

    While sake quality depends first and foremost on the quality of its two basic ingredients, water and rice,

    the degree that the rice is milled also affects thesakes quality. Milling removes the unwanted outer layers of

    vitamins, proteins, and fats from the grains, so the more the rice is milled, the better the sakes flavour and fra-grance.

    The milling rate indicates the percentage of the original kernel remaining after milling.

    2Washing & Soaking

    After milling to less than half the original grain size for the best qualitysake the pearl-like rice is washed

    and soaked. Although the purpose of soaking the rice is simply to allow it to absorb the desired amount of

    water, getting just the right amount of water is quite a tricky business. Brewers time the soaking down to the

    minute because over-soaking can make the rice unusable for brewing.

    3Steaming

    Early the next morning, rice with just the right water content is put into the continuous rice steamer and

    steamed for 50 minutes. In order to make ideal koji (=komekoji ) and to ensure proper fermentation of the

    mash, the rice kernels must be steamed in a way that results in a firm outer surface and a soft inner core.

    Temperature and pressure are precisely con-

    trolled to make steamed rice with a firm outer

    surface and a soft center.

    Milling too fast breaks kernels and

    over-heats the rice, so this work mustbe done slowly and gently.

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    4Koji=komekojiMaking

    A 20% portion of the rice steamed each day is used for koji making, the heart of the brewing process, which

    lasts for two full days and nights. Great care is taken in this step, which ultimately determines the flavour pro-

    file of the resultingsake.

    The rice is first sprinkled with finely powdered koji mould(=koji-kin) and taken to the koji-muro (cultivationroom) where it is put in a long, shallow tube called a toko. The seeded rice is then tightly wrapped in fine cloth

    and is left to cultivate in the high temperature and high humidity of the koji-muro.

    In the evening, everyone gathers round the toko tub in the koji-muro to work the stiffness out of the batch of

    koji and to give each kernel equal exposure to the room temperature.

    On the morning of the second day, the koji is moved from the toko tub into a special box called atana. The

    koji is now said to be at its peak. In the afternoon the koji is spread thinly on a heated table to aid evaporation

    and avoid sudden rises in temperature.

    On the morning of the third day, the steaming koji is taken out of the koji-muro. The brewers then spread the koji

    in long swirling lines on trays. If you take a closer look, you can see that koji has wrapped the kernels with fila-

    ments, and that the tip of each filament has its own crown of fine fuzz. These filaments, which contain enzymes

    needed for saccharification, have also grown into the heart of the kernels: koji is born. The brewers then spread

    the koji into swirls to halt its growth. The perfectly cultivated koji is now ready for the next days brewing.

    The koji(=komekoji) is spread into swirls to help

    dry it, and to lower the temperature so that the

    koji mould(=koji-kin) does not continue to grow.

    Koji mould creates the enzymes

    needed for saccharification.These enzymes have the magical

    power to break rice starch down

    into glucose.

    If you take an even closer look,

    you can see that the tip of eachfilament has its own crown of

    fine fuzz, like the head of a

    thistle

    When the time is right, everyone gathers round thetoko tub in the koji-muro to work the stiffness out the

    batch ofkoji. This is done with loving care and genial

    conversation about the state of the days koji. This

    work must be done with sensitive hands!

    The koji-muro (cultivation room) is the heart of the

    sakagura. The walls are paneled with cedar. Humidity

    and temperature are strictly regulated.

    Steamed rice is blown through this hose with an air

    compressor.

    Koji(=komekoji) is spread thinly using

    wooden slats during the final stage.

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    SakeProduction 26

    5Yeast Starter

    The next step is to create theshubo, a kind of seed mash, for growing thesakeyeast that is central to the fer-

    mentation process.Koji(=komekoji), steamed rice, and water is added to a small tank, then lactic acid and a

    pure yeast concentration is mixed in. (A traditional method for creating lactic acid naturally, called Yamahai,

    is also still used today.) The mixture then slowly turns into what is called amazake, or sweetsake.

    During theshubo cultivation, enzymes in the koji slowly convert the starch from the steamed rice into glucose,

    which in turn fuels the rapid propagation of the yeast cells. A pristine environment must be maintained and

    theshubo temperature must be strictly regulated over the fourteen days required to develop the yeast culture.

    If this process is carried out properly, the result is ashubo mixture with two or three million thriving yeast

    cells in every drop.

    The first day of theshubo

    Water, koji(=komekoji), lactic acid and steamed rice is

    mixed. A steel cylinder is placed in the center so that

    water filled with dissolved koji enzymes can seep into it.

    The brewer workers repeatedly ladle this solution back

    into the surrounding mixture to increase the concen-

    tration.

    Every morning the brewery workers measure the temperature, check the yeast con-

    centration and adjust the temperature by heating the bottom of the tank or by adding

    cool water. For two weeks theshubo mixture is pampered like a baby.

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    6Fermentation

    At this stage, the yeast has consumed nearly all the glucose in the mixture, and the culture is beginning to get

    hungry. The same basic ingredients for creating more amazake (koji=komekoji, steamed rice and water) are

    added to a medium-size tank. However, adding the full amount of amazake at once would weaken the yeast

    culture, so it is instead added in three stages over four days.

    After the first batch, the mixture rests for one day. Then, the same steps are taken on the third and fourth

    days, gradually increasing the volume of the moromi in larger fermentation tanks.

    This fermentation process, unique to the brewing of Japanesesake, is known as multiple parallel fermentation.

    7Pressing

    After about 21 to 25 days, the moromi has reached 18 to 20% alcohol content, the fragrance and flavour have

    fully developed, and thesake is ready to be pressed. This involves straining the white kasu (lees) through fine

    cloth to separate the clearsake. Traditional methods likeKubitsuri orSakabune, or newer methods such as air

    pressing, are used to extract thesake.

    Adding theshubo mixture directly to the

    large fermentation tank would cause a

    rapid fall in temperature that would weak-

    en the yeast. To avoid this, the first batch

    is made in a medium-sized tank.

    Forcing the yeast to live in a harsher environment 10-15oC or 50-59

    oF cooler

    than normal achieves on optimum balance of alcohol, fragrance, and flavour.

    The second batch and the third batch are added in large fermentation tanks.

    The premium daiginjo is extracted

    by a simple process called kubitsuri

    orhanging by the neck

    The pressedsake slowly accumulatesin this glass bottle.

    Pressing machine

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    8Aging

    With the exception ofArabashiri (17 to 20% alcohol) and someNamazake, which are bottled and shipped soon

    after pressing, mostsake is kept in tanks for six months to a year, and is regularly sampled to determine the

    best time for bottling and shipping.

    Main Production MethodsKimoto method

    A traditional method for makingshubo (sakeyeast starter). Time and attention is required to derive lactic acid

    from natural lactobacilli, which assists in increasingsakeyeast content while inhibiting propagation of harmful

    bacteria. This starter contains a high concentration of amino acids and is helpful in producing a dry, rich-tast-

    ingsake.

    Yamahai-moto method

    The yamahai-moto method was developed in the Meiji era as a laboursaving modification of the kimoto

    method. This method omits the labour-intensive process called yamaoroshi (grinding the mixture of steamed

    rice, komekoji, and water with wooden paddles in a shallow tub). Theyamahai-moto method produces thesake

    and thesakeyeast starter of the same characteristics as the kimoto method.Sokujo-moto method

    Another method developed in the Meiji era, thesokujo-moto further shortens production time by adding lactic

    acid, which eliminates the step of making lactic acid taken in the kimoto andyamahai-moto methods. Today,

    thesokujo-moto method is one of the most commonly used at breweries. The sokujo-moto method produces all-

    roundshubo from which any type ofsake can be brewed.

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    29/3229 History/ Reference Materials/ Other Resources

    Written during the Nara era (700s) around the time of the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters),the

    Harima Fudoki (Records of the Culture and Geography of Harima Province) contains the clearest

    reference to the use of rice as an ingredient in sake. Specific passages state the rice bestowed

    upon us by the Gods has withered and moulded therefore fermentation forsakewill begin forth-

    with.

    TheKojiki is the oldest surviving historical book in the Japanese language.

    Some historians believe thatsake brewing started long ago among the ordinary people of Japan

    before Imperial Sake was brought to the Yamato Imperial Court in the 4th century when the

    court was newly founded and Chinese culture and technologies were making their way to the

    country. Written in the 900s, the Engishiki (Rule of the Engi Era for the Implementation of the

    Penal Code and Administrative Law) notes a variety of differentsakes already being produced with

    the same basic methods used today more than 1,000 years ago during the Heian Period.

    Sake was finally commercialised in the Edo Period (1603-1867). These brews were the result of

    blending the sake-brewing techniques handed down among clans in areas across Japan and the

    process used to produce the Imperial Sake. It was during this historical period that the many vari-

    etals ofsake and various brands ofsake emerged, a situation much like that of the modern day.

    The uniquesake-brewing methods developed long ago are still in use in Japan today. One exam-

    ple, multiple parallel fermentation, is the advanced production method described above under

    which the saccharification and fermentation processes occur simultaneously. Another unique

    aspect of Japanese brewing is that it producessakewith an alcohol content as high as 20%.

    The hi-ire pasteurisation process is also a Japanese tradition.

    Records dating as far back as the Muromachi Period (1400s)

    detail Japanese sake brewers using the hi-ire process to heat

    fresh sake to 65oC (140oF) in order to sterilize it and inhibit

    enzyme action prior to storing thesake as means of promoting

    the maturation of flavours. This was long before the discovery of

    pasteurisation by bacteriologist Louis Pasteur in the mid-1800s.

    Reference Materials

    Conversations on Sake No. 1 and 9 (National Research Institute of Brewing)

    http://www.nrib.go.jp/sake/sakeinfo.htm#jyouhou

    Glossary of Terms on Sake Bottle Labels (National Research Institute of Brewing)

    http://www.nrib.go.jp/sake/nlziten.htm

    Welcome to the World of Japanese Sake (Japan Sake Brewers Association)

    http://www.japansake.or.jp/sake/english/index.html

    Tax Statistics (National Tax Agency JAPAN)

    Creating and Tasting Wondrous Sakes 35 Years as a Sake Technical Officer, Tetsuo

    HASUO ISBN4-89063-176-3

    Ingredients in Marketed Alcoholic Beverages: Fiscal Year 2005(National Tax Agency JAPAN)

    http://www.nta.go.jp/category/sake/10/seibun/02.htm

    Reading Material - Sake (Japan Sake Brewers Association)

    http://www.japansake.or.jp/sake/enjoy/howto/index.htmlSake Service Institute

    http://www.sakejapan.com/

    Sake Notes (National Tax Agency JAPAN)

    http://www.nta.go.jp/category/sake/10/siori/h18/siori.htm

    History

    C Okunomatsu Sake BreweryCo.,Ltd.

    C Okunomatsu Sake Brewery Co.,Ltd.

    Other Resources

    Sake: The Liquid Essence of Japan

    http://www.jal.com/en/sake/index.html

    Japan Sake Brewers Association Website

    http://www.japansake.or.jp/sake/english/index.html

    Sake World Homepage (by John Gauntner)

    http://www.sake-world.com/

    John Gauntner, The Sake Handbook (Charles E. Tuttle,

    Co., Inc.)

    Griffith Frost and John Gauntner, Sake Pure+Simple

    (Stone Bridge Press)

    John Gauntner, The Sake Companion (Running Press)

    Beau Timken and Sara Deseran, Sake: A Modern

    Guide (Chronicle Books)Philip Harper, The Insiders Guide to Sake (Kodansha

    International)

    Philip Harper, The Book of Sake:A Connoisseurs

    Guide (Kodansha International)

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    www.sake.jal.comJAL is working together with more than 200 sake brewers in Japan with

    overseas promotion and export of their products. As a supporter of the

    Visit Japan Campaign, JAL would like to invite you to enjoy the beauty,

    history and culture of Japan by experiencing the delights of sake.

    JALUX, JAL Groups trading company, is promoting the Japanese national drink by the introduc-

    tion of Japanese food, culture and style through sales of sakeand sake-related traditional ceramic

    tableware.

    JAL offers a comprehensive selection of sake, especially chosen by sakesommeliersKikizake-

    shito compliment on board cuisine including premium rice wines Dai Ginjoor Ginjoand Junmai

    Daiginjoor Junmai Ginjo.

    When visiting Japan whether for business or pleasure, step into the world of sakeand increase

    your enjoyment and understanding of Japan and its unique culture. JALs sakewebsite contains

    detailed information on the sake-making process, suggested breweries you can visit during your

    stay in Japan, and reports on individual sakeby JAL cabin attendants with qualifications as sake

    sommeliers.

    Using JAL Cargos high quality freighter services,

    JALUX, JAL affiliated trading company,

    together with London sake

    experts are introducing sakebreweries to the UK

    and other overseas markets.

    No journey to Japan is complete until you experience

    the delicate, elegant taste of the national

    drink of Japan, sake.

    Welcome to JapanYokoso Japan

    and welcome to the world of sake.

    For an unforgettable journey,

    relax and enjoy the comprehensive selection of sake

    served on board JAL flights.

    Sakecan be enjoyed equally as well on its own as with

    one of our delicious Japanese or western style meals.

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    SakeAtoZEditorKimiko MASUDA

    When sakeis evaluated its quality, a small cup called "Kikichoko(special saketasting cup)" is used;

    this is a white porcelain cup with a blue snake's-eye painted in the bottom.