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Exmoor Conservation Volunteer Partnership

Hand book

Welcome

To the Exmoor Conservation Volunteers Partnership Registration Pack & Code of Conduct.

Exmoor National Park Authority, the National Trust at Holnicote Estate, The Crown Estate at Dunster and the South West Lakes Trust at Wimbleball and the Somerset Wild Life Trust and others work together to provide a range of physical and monitoring tasks across Exmoor. Tasks are suitable for volunteers with varying skills and who come to us from all backgrounds and experiences.

Exmoor Conservation Volunteer Partnership (ECVP) Code of Conduct

1. Registration. Any person who wishes to join the scheme must read and agree to the code of conduct then book on to a Volunteer Induction Session via out website www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/volunteers. All details supplied during the Initial Induction will then be stored on the Volunteers database and may be shared with task leaders of any of the Partner organisations. Details supplied during booking will be held securely on servers owned by eventbrite.com to make them accessible to all partners. The eventbrite privacy policy is at http://www.eventbrite.co.uk/privacypolicy

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2. Minimum Age. All volunteers must be over the age of 18 to attend tasks. From time to time the Partnership may run ‘Taster’ days for where any member of the public is welcome but under16’s must be supervised.

3. Personal Protective Clothing. Volunteers will be supplied with any personal protective clothing they need to safely undertake their activities.

4. Risk Assessment. ECVP places a high priority on safe working and all volunteer tasks are provided with a written risk assessment. These will be carried out either by a staff member, or in some circumstances Volunteers will be given training to carry out their own risk assessment for some tasks. Any volunteer who feels uncertain about safety aspects of a task should cease working until their concerns have been addressed.

5. Dogs. Unfortunately unless a task is stated as dog friendly the assumption should be No dogs on practical or group tasks. Volunteers carrying out specific roles may be permitted to take dogs with them depending on the task.

A working partnership between the custodians of Exmoor

Enhancing the qualities that make Exmoor Special

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6. The ‘Person in Charge’ is the nominated person on the day of a task responsible for Health & Safety on site. Safety instructions must be followed at all times. Failure to do so can mean that a person or persons will be sent off the site and the matter reported back to the co-ordinators.

7. Traveling expenses will not normally be paid.

8. Training will be given in basic First Aid, safe use of tools and equipment, and map reading. Any volunteer who would like more specialised training should discuss it with whoever supervises their work or the co-ordinator.

9. Power tools are not allowed whilst working on any ENPA task. Other Partners within the scheme may have different policies and should be followed.

10. Hand tools. Volunteers must not use any of their own hand tools unless they have been checked over by the person in charge on the day of the task.

11. Transport may in some circumstances be provided. Volunteers who use their own vehicles are responsible for their vehicle’s insurance. You should check with your insurance company as some will not cover volunteer use. Most companies just need to be told what you are doing very few make an additional charge. If this is a problem contact the co-ordinator. Ensure you park at the work site in a safe and considerate way.

12. Compliance with Code of Conduct. Any volunteer who fails to comply with this Code of Conduct, or acts in any way that adversely affects the enjoyment and safety of other volunteers, or might bring Exmoor National Park Authority or any of its partners into disrepute may be asked to leave.

13. Updating of this code of conduct. To keep in line with changes in the law or policies from any of the partners this code of conduct may be updated from time to time. When we do this new copies will be circulated and unless you tell us otherwise we will assume you agree to abide by them.

Thank you for taking the time to read the above.

If you are unsure about any aspect of this Code, please discuss your concerns with Patrick at Exmoor House (01398 323665 or on his mobile 07973727469).

Patrick Watts-Mabbott

Education Support Officer (Volunteers) Exmoor National Park Authority Exmoor House, Dulverton, Somerset, TA22 9HL

Tel: 01398 323665 Direct Line: 07973727469 Visit Our Website at www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/volunteers Follow Exmoor Conservation Volunteers on Facebook

'Enhancing the qualities that make Exmoor special'

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Exmoor Volunteers, Safe Working Practices

Exmoor Conservation Volunteer Partnership (ECVP) Code of Conduct ..................................... 1

Introduction.......................................................................................................................................... 5

Assessing the safety risks..................................................................................................................... 5

Inherent hazards ........................................................................................................................................................ 5

Created hazards ......................................................................................................................................................... 5

Risk assessment ........................................................................................................................................................ 5

Using chainsaws........................................................................................................................................................ 5

First aid ................................................................................................................................................. 6

Kits............................................................................................................................................................................ 6

Training..................................................................................................................................................................... 6

Health hazards ..................................................................................................................................... 6

Tetanus...................................................................................................................................................................... 6

Bites and stings ......................................................................................................................................................... 7

Blue green algae........................................................................................................................................................ 7

Leptospirosis (Weils disease) ................................................................................................................................... 7

Lyme disease............................................................................................................................................................. 7

Toxocara canis .......................................................................................................................................................... 7

Bracken ..................................................................................................................................................................... 7

Giant hogweed .......................................................................................................................................................... 7

Hypothermia ............................................................................................................................................................. 8

Heat exhaustion......................................................................................................................................................... 8

Sunburn ..................................................................................................................................................................... 8

Tools ...................................................................................................................................................... 8

Carrying .................................................................................................................................................................... 8

Working .................................................................................................................................................................... 8

Maintenance.............................................................................................................................................................. 8

Use of chemicals ................................................................................................................................... 9

Moving materials ................................................................................................................................. 9

Underground Services ......................................................................................................................... 9

Working near traffic............................................................................................................................ 9

Protective clothing ............................................................................................................................... 9

Safety and techniques talks ............................................................................................................... 10

The right tools for the job ................................................................................................................. 10

Hand Tools - a guide for safe use and care...................................................................................... 11

How to use and care for hand tools .................................................................................................. 11

INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................................. 11

CLOTHING FOR CONSERVATION WORK...................................................................................................... 12

Tools .................................................................................................................................................... 12

Axes ........................................................................................................................................................................ 12

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SAFETY POINTS .................................................................................................................................................. 12

TECHNIQUE.......................................................................................................................................................... 12

Bowsaws ................................................................................................................................................................. 13

Billhooks ................................................................................................................................................................. 14

Wedges.................................................................................................................................................................... 15

Brashing saws (pole saw)........................................................................................................................................ 16

Loppers ................................................................................................................................................................... 16

Slashers ................................................................................................................................................................... 16

Sharpening stones ................................................................................................................................................... 17

Sledge hammers, mells and mauls .......................................................................................................................... 18

Drivalls.................................................................................................................................................................... 19

Crowbars and wrecking bars................................................................................................................................... 20

Shuv-holers ............................................................................................................................................................. 21

Spades and forks ..................................................................................................................................................... 22

Picks and mattocks.................................................................................................................................................. 22

Shovels.................................................................................................................................................................... 23

Rakes and cromes ................................................................................................................................................... 24

Hand-winch............................................................................................................................................................. 25

Glossary & advice................................................................................................................................................... 26

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Introduction

Practical conservation work should be carried out as safely as possible. Being aware of various safety points not only reduces the risk of accidents or illness but also enables groups to work more effectively - increasing everybody's enjoyment and satisfaction. Safe work is good work.

This information sheet can only be a guide for volunteer groups - aiming to improve standards of work and as a result, the level of enjoyment. It is not a comprehensive statement of necessary safety procedures. It is intended that groups will use it as a starting point from which to find out more about how to protect their health, safety and welfare. Whilst voluntary groups do not generally have statutory duties, they do have a common law duty of care towards their volunteers and others affected by their work.

Everyone within a group has a responsibility for safety. Group organisers and project leaders should ensure that safety is taken seriously and leaders should be adequately trained. Volunteers must be made aware of their own need to act responsibly, as individuals can otherwise be personally liable.

Assessing the safety risks Before the day of the project, there are several safety points to consider.

Inherent hazards

These are already on the site and include underground cables and drains, concealed holes, difficult access, inclement conditions, dangerous litter and subsidence on river banks. These should be recorded on a site survey form or management plan if applicable. Points of access should be noted, together with the location of the nearest telephone, where there is a working mobile phone signal, and hospital in case of emergencies. Make sure that one vehicle is parked ready to leave should there be an emergency.

Created hazards

These stem from the activities. If tools have to be transported to the site, make sure that this is carried out safely. In vehicles, all tools should be wrapped (to protect them, as well as volunteers) and stored so that they cannot move around if the vehicle has to stop or manoeuvre quickly.

Risk assessment

A hazard is defined as something with the potential to cause harm, and covers ill health, injury and damage to property. Risk is the likelihood of that harm actually taking place and the severity of that harm. Risk assessment is about identifying hazards and the level of risk associated with them, then prescribing measures to control or reduce those risks.

Risk assessment must take into account a number of factors:

1. What are the things that can cause harm or damage, ie the hazards? 2. How likely is it that something will go wrong? 3. How often does the risk arise - daily, every time a particular tool is used, annually 4. How many people would be affected? 5. Are the effects immediate or longer term? 6. What does the law actually dictate, eg are there specific regulations covering this hazard?

Using chainsaws

Chainsaws and brush cutters should only be used by properly trained operators. For chainsaw users to be covered by Exmoor National Park Authority’s insurance policy, they must be a staff member and be approved by a head of section as a power tools user.

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First aid

Kits

A standard first aid kit, normally sufficient for a group of 12 people, contains the items listed. If your work might result in a greater than normal need for first aid, or your group is larger, have more supplies available.

• 1 guidance card • 20 sterile, adhesive dressings, individually wrapped • 2 sterile eye pads • 6 triangular bandages, individually wrapped • 6 safety pins • 6 medium, sterile, unmedicated dressings, individually wrapped • 4 large, sterile, unmedicated dressings, individually wrapped • 2 pairs of disposable fine plastic gloves to prevent contact with body fluids • Where mains tap water is not readily available for eye irrigation, at least 1litre of fresh tap water in a drinks bottle or sterile water or

sterile normal saline (0.9%) in sealed disposable containers should be provided.

First aid boxes should be made of suitable material designed to protect the contents from damp and dust and should be clearly identified as firstaid containers.

Groups may also provide a welfare kit. This can contain items such as toilet rolls and sanitary towels, but must not contain any form of medication like aspirin. The following contents are suggested: 1 pair tweezers, 1 pair scissors, 10 safety pins, needle and thread, pencil, sanitary towels, whistle, toilet roll, cotton wool, 30 unmedicated plasters, 3 finger pouches, insect repellent, 5x20p pieces/phonecard, barrier cream, sun block.

Training

All groups should have a member on every project who has undergone some first aid training. For low risk work, a one day Emergency Aid course may be suitable; more hazardous projects, such as those on which a chainsaw is being used, must have one or more qualified first aiders available on site. A qualified first aider is someone who has passed the three-day training course 'First Aid at Work'. In some circumstances it may be more appropriate to go on a walk leader or outdoors first aid course.

For further details about first aid training, contact the Exmoor National Park Education Support officer, or whoever supervises your daily work.

Health hazards

It is important to be aware of the possible health hazards involved with undertaking practical conservation work. This list is not meant to put anyone off conservation work but to increase awareness and avoid problems. If any of these instances do occur, seek medical attention immediately.

Tetanus

Volunteers should ensure their tetanus immunity is up to date, a GP can advise on this. Check that anyone getting even a small cut on site has an up to date immunisation and if not, suggest they obtain immunisation straight away.

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Bites and stings

Snakes, bees, wasps, mosquitoes and other insects can give nasty bites/stings. On projects where this could be a problem, ask volunteers to let the leader know if they have an allergy to any stings, etc. While these rarely present major hazards it is important to be aware of the risk of anaphylactic shock. This is a major allergic reaction of the whole body and can be recognised by widespread red blotchy skin, swelling of the face and neck, impaired breathing and a rapid pulse. It is caused by rapid dilation of the body's blood vessels and constriction of airways, and is potentially fatal. If such symptoms occur, get medical attention immediately. If working in an area where adders live, warn people not to go too near the snakes. Do not try touching them!

Blue green algae

Algae can, in certain conditions, produce a 'bloom' in hot weather which may be toxic. Avoid working in the vicinity of this scum on the water's edge and wash it off immediately if it comes into contact with skin.

Leptospirosis (Weils disease)

Weils disease is one of two forms of Leptospirosis to affect humans - a bacterial infection carried in rats urine which can contaminate water and wet river and canal banks. The other form, Hardjo, is transmitted by exposure to the urine or foetal fluids of cattle. The bacteria do not survive for long in dry conditions. Infection occurs through cuts, abrasions and the lining of the eyes and mouth.

Symptoms start with a flu like illness and persistent severe headaches leading to meningitis, jaundice and sometimes death. Sensible precautions include: washing thoroughly after contact with water before eating, drinking or smoking; covering cuts with waterproof plasters and avoiding further contact with water; and ensuring that those working in water are wearing boots and gloves to avoid accidental cuts. Avoid cattle contaminated water or material and repeat the other precautions above.

Lyme disease

This can be transmitted to humans when bitten by ticks that usually live on deer and sheep. Ticks need moist and relatively warm conditions to survive between blood feeds and tall vegetation to climb up to find a host, bracken being ideal for this.

Keep skin covered (wear long trousers and shirt sleeves when working in long vegetation in high risk areas especially). Brush clothing down regularly and at the end of the day, and remove any ticks as soon as possible. If a rash develops around the bite, seek medical help immediately.

Toxocara canis

This is a micro organism found in dog faeces which can cause blindness in children. The risk to adults is not considered to be great provided normal standards of hygiene are maintained. Wash skin with soap and water immediately after contact with dog faeces.

Bracken

The plant is toxic and creates many symptoms of poisoning in animals which feed on it.

Dust masks should be worn when clearing bracken during the summer if the bracken is dropping spores (look for dark patches on the underside of the bracken frond). The filter should be fine enough to keep out spores.

Giant hogweed

This is much larger than normal hogweed, growing up to 5m tall, with blotched purple stems. For some people contact with the plant or its material, combined with sunlight, can cause a rash. In severe cases, blisters are caused as the chemicals in the plant react with sunlight, decreasing the skin's ability to absorb ultraviolet light. Do not touch giant hogweed!

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Hypothermia

This is an abnormally low body temperature induced by exposure to cold or wet weather. It can be avoided by not allowing people to get too cold, so avoid exposed sites and projects in the cold where there is not much activity to keep the body warm. If hypothermia does occur, wrap the person up for all-over warmth - other people's body heat will also help.

Heat exhaustion

It includes sunstroke, but it doesn't need to be sunny for someone to suffer from heat exhaustion. Move the sufferer to the shade, and make them sip water.

Sunburn

This is an increasingly serious health hazard even in the UK. It often occurs unknowingly to those with skin exposed on dull days that are cool or feel so due to the wind. Avoid it by being sensible. Wear a hat, long sleeved clothing, and apply sun block/suntan lotion. If sunburn does occur, cool the area with water. Don't burst blisters, as the skin underneath is sterile. Blisters should be allowed to burst or subside of their own account.

Tools

Carrying

Never carry more tools than you can comfortably manage.

Always carry tools at your side, with the 'business' end facing forward, points or blades facing towards the ground.

Always keep a good distance between yourself and others when carrying tools.

Never carry tools over your shoulder; human heads are easy to damage!

When not in use, tools should generally be laid flat on the ground. Spades, shovels, forks and rakes should be placed with points downwards. This prevents the tools flying up if the points are trodden on.

Working

Always use tools correctly, as demonstrated by a leader. Refer to this manual for more information.

Be aware of people around you, and always work at a safe distance - when swinging tools, twice the length of your tool plus arm.

Never wear gloves when swinging any tools as your bare hand gives a much better grip. Do protect the other hand with a glove, ie the hand holding the wood when working with a billhook.

Never use a tool with a split or damaged handle, or with a loose head. If you think a tool might be damaged in any way, inform the leader and take it out of service.

Where chainsaws and brush cutters are in use, keep at least 15 metres away from the operator, or more, if the safe system of work demands it. Never approach the operator, especially from behind; if you want to get their attention keep well away and shout or gesture.

Maintenance

A well-maintained tool is safer, lasts longer and is easier to use.

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Make sure tools are clean and rust-free, that blades are sharp and heads secure. Handles should be free of splinters, and tools with split or damaged handles should not be used but repaired at the earliest opportunity.

Use of chemicals

The use of pesticides is discouraged unless there is really no alternative. If their use is absolutely essential on site, it should only be by someone who is appropriately qualified to apply the chemicals and must also be authorized by the staff of the supervising body.

The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) Regulations apply to the landowner and any substance used on their land. Similarly, they apply to anyone buying and storing pesticides. For further advice about the use of pesticides, contact the principal agricultural adviser at your local Health and Safety Executive (HSE) office.

Moving materials Plan the delivery of materials to be as close to the site as possible, and aim to minimise the need to handle heavy items manually. Provide lifting and carrying aids eg wheelbarrows, wherever possible. When lifting, pushing or carrying, do not attempt to move weights that are too heavy or too awkward. Remember to lift with a straight back, bent knees and let the legs do the work. The majority of all injuries are related to moving and handling tools and materials, so particular attention must be paid to encouraging safe working practices.

Underground Services If working near buildings, road sides, utility lines then ask utility companies to identify and mark line of service on site. Avoid digging within 1m. Staff should check with landowner and services maps obtained by utility companies before starting work. If digging within 5m of line, use only wooden handled spades. Staff should watch out for buried marker tape indicating pipe or cable.

Working near traffic Keep to the most visible part of the road, wear hi vis jackets front and rear of group. If working on the road side all members should have high visibility jackets. If Work involves interrupting the traffic flow it should be supervised by someone with chapter 8 training. Signs warning of work hazards or preventing access on approaches to site must be erected. For roadside unloading, place cones or tape and signs as necessary. Always leave vehicle parked on site in case of emergency. Staff are advised to plan unloading and reloading of vehicle to ensure that people and materials/ tools are well clear of passing traffic. Post a look out who would be able to halt work if necessary.

Protective clothing

Always wear strong boots, preferably with steel toecaps.

Don't wear overly loose clothing.

Long hair should be tied back if it may get in the way.

When felling trees or scrub over 3 meters high and 6” DBH, hard hats should be worn. Manufacturers recommend they should be changed every three years. Check their date when you buy them and that they are not out of date when you use them. Store helmets out of direct sunlight, as this will degrade them.

If waders are worn, make sure the wearer can swim! Lone working in waders must not be undertaken and a rope or safety line should be available if lifejackets are not worn. Make sure waders fit properly, and are not too big. Avoid fast flowing or deep water, as waders can be very dangerous and are capable of trapping a person underwater. The use of chest waders must be planned carefully for exceptional circumstances only.

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Gloves should be worn when clearing rubbish, to avoid cuts, but should not be used with edged swinging tools such as billhooks and slashers.

Wear impact resistant goggle if cutting or trimming stone; a face mask if danger of dust particles, etc, being inhaled and work with back to the wind.

Safety and techniques talks

For further information about conservation tools and safety see the BTCV publications Tool care - a workshop manual, and Hand Tools - a guide to safe use and care. If you are in doubt over the proper use of any tool - ask the person in charge of your activity or contact Patrick Watts-Mabbott (Volunteer Co-ordinator at Exmoor National Park Authority). They will be glad to advise on the correct use of tools and can suggest ways of presenting safety talks. The following general points however, should always be covered.

Brief all volunteers on any risks involved and how to use the tools properly, making work both easier and safer. To ensure that everyone knows how to stay safe during the work and when using any of the tools, project leaders (person in charge) should give a suitable talk at the beginning of the day. Even if volunteers attend regularly, it is well worth going over the main points, as people may forget to bear safety in mind.

Remember talks will also mean that new volunteers are not embarrassed to ask the name of a particular tool, what it is used for, about safe practice or good conservation techniques.

If volunteers are joining the project at various times of the day, make sure that those arriving later are given individual tuition, especially new volunteers. Many tools have specialist uses, so try to avoid jargon as it may put people off asking questions for fear of seeming stupid. Make all volunteers aware that if they come across a tool which they do not know how to use, they should ask someone who has used it before.

You should include information on the purpose of the project; any particular site hazards; who the appointed leader and first aider are; precautions to take; where the first aid kit is and how the group and the day will be organised.

Go through the Site Risk assessment and ensure all points are covered.

The information given in this publication on behalf of the BTCV and the Exmoor Volunteers Partnership is believed to be correct but accuracy is not guaranteed and the information does not obviate the need to make further enquiries as appropriate. This publication is not a comprehensive statement on all safety procedures and the reader must take all reasonable steps to ensure the health and safety of all users and to take all necessary steps to implement a health and safety policy. This publication is issued without responsibility on the part of BTCV for accidents or damage as a result of its use. BTCV produces a number of handbooks on practical conservation techniques, all of which cover safety aspects.

The right tools for the job

To accompany this pack, BTCV Enterprises Ltd. supplies many of the specialist tools and equipment needed. By using a number of suppliers, we are able to offer a very broad range of tools.

If you need hammers, picks and shovels, or a wheelbarrow, you can be sure that we have designs tried and tested by years of experience in the field.

Site safety is everyone's priority. Kite-marked goggles, cowhide gloves and safety-toe capped boots offer important protection while you work - we also have first aid kits in a range of sizes catering for individuals and large groups.

As well as the information in this pack, BTCV produces publications on risk assessment and safe working practices for conservationists. These benefit from our experience gained in over forty years' practical conservation work.

In addition to publications, tools and equipment, BTCV Enterprises Ltd. also supply native provenance trees, shrubs and wildflowers.

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For free catalogues of any of these or to order by post please visit www.btcv.org/shop

BTCV Enterprises Ltd is the trading subsidiary of BTCV. Profits from the sale of goods and services help fund BTCV's valuable conservation work.

Registered office and general enquiries: information@btcv.org.uk

Registered charity 261009

Hand Tools - a guide for safe use and care

The information given in this publication on behalf of BTCV and the Exmoor Volunteers is believed to be correct, but accuracy is not guaranteed and the information does not obviate the need to make further enquiries as appropriate.

This publication is not a comprehensive statement on all safety procedures and the reader must take all reasonable steps to ensure the health and safety of all users and to take all necessary steps to implement a health and safety policy. This publication is issued without responsibility on the part of BTCV for accidents or damage as a result of its use.

This booklet was compiled by Robert Forrester with support from Mike King and advice from Andy Stokes and Tony Newby. It derives from a similar publication produced by Andy Follis in 1980.

© BTCV 1996 - 2003

Excerpts may be used with acknowledgement of source. >Revised September 2003

In this Exmoor Volunteers Edition, additions and changes have been made by Patrick Watts-Mabbott of Exmoor National Park Authority to better reflect conditions and working practices on Exmoor. BTCV and all other authors bear no responsibility for these changes

Illustrated by Jane Hallows

How to use and care for hand tools

INTRODUCTION

A large amount of practical conservation work, particularly that done by volunteers, is carried out with the use of hand tools.

This guide illustrates a range of tools in common usage and correct techniques for using them safely.

It is essential that all people on conservation projects are shown how to use, carry and store these tools correctly before starting work. This not only encourages safe working practices but also makes the job easier to undertake. This guide will help by outlining the key technical and safety points.

Please remember that other factors affect how tools are used and these need to be taken into account. For example, the site conditions, terrain, weather and attitudes of the participants all influence the ease and safety with which the work can be undertaken.

All tool use has some level of risk, however safe it may seem; but observing the recommendations in this guide should help you to minimise the risk.

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You must also ensure members of the public are adequately protected, both from tools in use and from their results, like falling branches or holes to trip in. Use signs warning of hazards and make sure you can detect people approaching closely and stop work until they are at a safe distance.

CLOTHING FOR CONSERVATION WORK

When using such tools it is best to wear clothes which are tough enough for the work and give adequate protection from vegetation, weather and harmful effects of the sun. Stout footwear, preferably steel toe-capped, should be worn. Avoid soft shoes which offer no protection. Although clothing should allow freedom of movement, it should not be loose and flapping or it could get snagged on tools or twigs.

Be careful to protect your head, face and back of the neck from the sun as well as from injuries, dust and other harmful substances.

Protective gloves can be useful but should not generally be worn when using swinging tools as they reduce grip. When clearing bracken, nettles or other plants where there is a greater risk of allergic reaction to plant sap, gloves with a rubber webbing may be used. In these cases, it is important to increase the safe working distance from other people.

Tools

Axes

- for tree felling, snedding, coppicing and hedgelaying. Tree felling using an axe is a skilled job and a bowsaw provides a quicker, safer alternative for the inexperienced to use. Personal instruction in using an axe is essential.

SAFETY POINTS

• Make sure the axe is sharp. A blunt axe can bounce off wood instead of cutting into it. • Keep a good grip on the haft. Never wear gloves and exercise caution if working in wet conditions. • Make sure that you are working at a safe distance from other people. Stop working if someone comes closer to you than twice the

combined length of your arm and of the axe haft. When felling, the safe distance away is 2.5 x the height of the tree being felled. • Always make sure there is a clear path in which to swing the axe. Even a small twig can deflect the axe and cause injury. • Make sure the haft is not split or cracked and never bind a cracked haft: replace it. Make sure the head is securely tight on the haft. • Never carry an axe over your shoulder. Carry it by your side with the blade pointing down and away from you. • Transport axes with the blades guarded or wrapped in sacking or similar material. Always wear steel toe-capped boots when using

an axe. • Before starting any felling, check for overhead cables and other obstructions.

TECHNIQUE

• Practice logging up before attempting felling. • Work from a balanced position with good footing and sufficient clearance. Check your distance before starting and adjust it as

necessary between blows. • Hold the axe in both hands: if right-handed, hold it with your left hand at the foot of the haft and your right hand near the head.

Some right-handed people may feel more natural using their left hand near the axe head - practice first. For left-handed people the normal stance is with the left hand near the axe head.

• Swing the axe up and over your shoulder or lift it to the required height. As you swing it down let your right hand slide down to meet your left. Put effort into the beginning of the swing, but let it end with the momentum of the axe doing the work.

• Keep your eye on the target, not on the axe, as you work. • If the axe jams in the cut, free it with a sharp blow downwards on the foot of the haft. Do not jerk it from side to side as you may

break it.

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Bowsaws

For tree felling, scrub clearance, coppicing and cross-cutting felled timber.

SAFETY POINTS

• Choose the size of saw according to the size of timber you wish to cut, but use the smallest which can do the job effectively and efficiently.

• Use with one hand holding the lever end of the frame. Do not use your other hand to guide the blade when cutting small wood. Use it to hold the wood steady, but keep it well clear of the saw blade as the blade could jump out of the saw cut and cause injury.

• When carrying the saw, hold it down by your side with the blade facing down. • Make sure the blade is well protected with a guard or is wrapped in sacking or similar material when being transported. • Wear a safety helmet when bringing down any trees over 3m high with a diameter at breast height (DBH) >6” • Before starting any felling, check for overhead cables and other obstructions.

TECHNIQUE

• Check the tension and condition of the saw blade and reset and re-tension as necessary. If that is not possible or if the blade is bent or any teeth are missing or have lost their set, replace the blade, as a poorly maintained saw will make the work more hazardous.

• Push and pull the saw with one hand, holding the lever end of the frame near the blade. When cutting small wood, hold the wood steady with the other hand well clear of the saw in case it jumps out of the cut. Ideally where gloves on the spare hand esp. with inexperienced users.

• When cutting large wood, rest the other hand lightly on the back of the frame to keep the blade in contact and aligned in the cut. • Saw with easy relaxed strokes, using the full length of the blade. Use a rocking motion when cutting large timber. Let the blade do

the work - don't force it, particularly if it sticks. • Large bow saws (91cm, 36in) are easier to use with a partner. Pull on alternate strokes. Do not push or the blade will jam.

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• When felling large trees (20cm, 8in+ in diameter) cut a felling sink or 'Gob cut' to help control the direction of fall and to stop the tree pinching the saw.

• If possible select blade for type of wood to be cut (large teeth for green wood, small for seasoned).

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• With smaller timber, make a horizontal cut instead of a felling sink. Prune branches in a similar manner.

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All content copyright © 1986-2010 BTCV Ltd

Billhooks

- many different types, some single and some double-edged. In general the more sharply curved ones, particularly with a weighted 'nose' to the blade, are for brashing and coppicing; while the straighter bladed ones are for hedging.

SAFETY POINTS

• To be safe and work effectively, billhooks should always be kept sharp. A blunt blade can bounce off wood instead of cutting in and is tiring to use.

• Make sure the handle is attached tightly to the blade. If it is slightly loose or becomes so during use, soak it in water, but if very loose the handle should be replaced.

• Never wear a glove on the hand holding the billhook as it makes the handle difficult to grip safely. Even special hedging gloves have limited grip.

• Make sure there is plenty of clearance to work in, as branches and twigs may deflect the swing.

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• Keep a safe distance from people and if someone comes too close then stop working. The safe distance away is at least twice the combined length of your arm and the tool you are using.

• Always exercise caution when working in rain, wet or icy conditions. If you have any doubt, stop working. • Transport billhooks with the blades guarded in sheaths or wrapped in sacking or similar material. When carrying a billhook in your

hand it should be held at the point of balance. Never swing it as you walk. • Never lift a double-edged hook directly towards or over your head. • Before starting any felling, check for overhead cables and other obstructions. • Bill hooks should be transported in the boot, or a locked box where it can not be easily accessed by the occupants of the vehicle.

TECHNIQUE

• Cut with, not across the grain. >

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• Wood over 5cm (2in) in diameter is better cut with an axe or saw. • When coppicing and felling very small trees, use an upward stroke near ground level to avoid digging the blade into the ground.

Clear debris before cutting. • To log up small timber, cut out a wedge. The wedge will need to be nearly as wide as the log is thick.

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Wedges

- used to split logs and to keep the saw-cut open when cross cutting or felling, thus assisting the control of the direction of fall.

SAFETY POINTS

• Wear safety goggles when hitting steel wedges with a sledgehammer. • Use gloves to handle steel wedges. • Examine the wedge for burred edges and 'mushrooming' of the top: do not use damaged wedges until repaired or replaced. • Insert the wedge firmly into the wood using light blows before hitting it with force.

TECHNIQUE

• Steel wedges should only be driven by a sledge hammer or wooden maul, not the back of an axe, wooden, plastic or alloy wedges may be driven inn with the back of an axe.

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Brashing saws (pole saw)

for clearing side branches of standing trees, usually conifers, and in hedging.

SAFETY POINTS

• Check the blade for cracks or missing teeth and the set and sharpness of the teeth; the handle for splits and cracks. • When working above shoulder height, a helmet and face visor must be worn to protect against falling branches and sawdust. • Make sure there is sufficient space for the sawing action and maintain a safe working distance from other people. A good guideline

is to keep people away by a distance equal to twice the combined lengths of the tool and your arm. • Keep the blade covered with a guard or sacking or other material when in transit.

Loppers

- used for brashing and woodland clearance as well as for general pruning of small shrubs and vegetation. They are particularly useful in restricted situations. Loppers (toggle loppers) are very safe tools and particularly useful for those inexperienced with billhooks and bowsaws.

SAFETY POINTS

• Be careful of branches and debris falling on the face or in the eyes.

TECHNIQUE

• Hold lopper handles and close them to cut straight across the grain of the wood. Do not exceed the cutting capacity of the loppers (approx 2-3 cm, about the thickness of an adult's thumb).

Slashers

for clearing brambles and cutting out large quantities of excess brash. For most work, the general purpose slasher is adequate, but for heavy work, a heavy duty or straight-bladed slasher is needed. They should not be used for those jobs done better with an axe or billhook.

SAFETY POINTS

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• Do not work in the rain and exercise caution in wet or icy conditions. • Never wear gloves as they make the handle hard to grip. • Keep a safe distance, at least 5 meters, from other people. Watch out for those around you and stop if anyone comes too close. • Make sure the handle is in good repair with no cracks or splinters that could injure hands. • Always attract the attention of someone using a slasher by calling out or being seen from the front. Do not walk up to them while

they are unaware of you. • Carry the slasher by your side, held at the point of balance -never over your shoulder -with the blade pointing down and away from

you and your thumb on the outside. Keep a safe distance from others as you walk. If you trip, push the slasher away and let go. • Transport slashers with their blades separately and securely wrapped in sacking or similar material.

TECHNIQUE

• Keep the blade sharp; when blunt, extra effort is needed and the blade can bounce off vegetation instead of cutting into it. • To cut light vegetation, hold the slasher with one hand at the heel - the other end of the handle from the blade - and the other hand

part way along the handle. • Swing the slasher through a wide arc, sliding one hand along to meet the other at the heel as you start to cut. Put the effort into

starting the swing: the cutting should be done by the momentum you have created in the tool.

• Cutting can be improved by angling the blade upwards slightly; cutting with it angled downwards can blunt it quickly.

Sharpening stones

three major types (left to right):

• Canoe stone - for billhooks and slashers • Cigar stone - somewhat coarser, for sickles and scythes • Double-sided stones - for axes; coarse one side and fine the other.

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SAFETY POINTS

• Wear protective leather gloves when sharpening tools. • Keep hands away from the blade. • Work in a quiet place away from distractions. • Only sharpening stones - hand tools - are included in this booklet, but if you use bench grinders or other power tools to prepare/

maintain your hand tools, the safety aspects of their use must be separately considered.

TECHNIQUE

• All stones are best used wet. • Sharpen with small circular motions of the stone with the blade facing away from you. • Hold the stone at the same angle as that to which the blade has already been sharpened. • Don't sharpen in one place for too long. • Sharpen from behind the blade, not in front along the sharp edge. • Note that many new sharp edged tools are supplied by manufacturers in need of final sharpening before use.

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All content copyright © 1986-2010 BTCV Ltd. Registered

Sledge hammers, mells and mauls

sledge hammers have steel heads and are used for heavy hammer work with stone, brickwork and driving in steel stakes. - mells are stake and fence post driving tools with cast iron heads. They must not be used on rock or metal as the head will shatter. - mauls are stake and fence post driving tools with wooden heads, with heat-shrunk metal rings round the ends to reduce fraying.

SAFETY POINTS

• Always protect your feet with steel toe-capped boots if possible, otherwise take extreme care and supervise group closely. • Never wear gloves while using these tools as you may lose your grip on the shaft.

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• Wear goggles to protect your eyes from flying chips when breaking rocks and hitting metal with a sledge hammer. • Check the head at regular intervals to ensure it is not working loose and that the metal/ wooden wedges securing the head are still

in place. Make sure the shaft is in good repair with no cracks or splinters that could injure hands. • When someone else is holding the post for you, work carefully. The assistant should be wearing a safety helmet. Use a stob twister

if possible. Keep other people away at least the distance of twice the combined length of your arm and the length of the tool. Stop working if they come closer.

• Carry these tools by your side held at the point of balance.

TECHNIQUE

• Make sure you have a firm footing and sufficient clearance and check your distance from the object you want to hit, maybe by a safe, slow-motion practice run.

• With one hand at the end of the shaft and the other near the head, lift the tool, bending the knees and keep your back straight. As you swing it down, slide the upper hand near the head down to meet the lower. Keep your eyes on the target. >

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• For mells and mauls, it is important to use the flat of the tool head to strike the top of the post/ stake to avoid unnecessary splitting of these.

Drivalls

- also known as post drivers, these are two or four-handled hollow cylinders with a cast-iron weighted end, used for driving in wooden posts.

SAFETY POINTS

• Always wear a safety helmet and safety boots if possible, otherwise take extreme care and supervise group closely. • Do not support the post by hand when a drivall is being positioned over the post or being used to drive it in. • When lifting or lowering the drivall, keep the back straight and bend the knees to use the strong thigh muscles. • Care must be taken not to raise the drivall too high between strokes. This could lead to head injuries. • Beware: as the post is driven in, the drivall must be progressively raised a little less or it could come off the post and then come

down unpredictably, thus risking injury. • Carry a drivall between two people, down by their sides.

TECHNIQUE

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• Use a drivall only on sound, regularly-shaped posts. • The drivall is a two person tool: don't use it alone. • Taking one handle each, maintain a firm stance and keep feet and legs clear of the post being driven. With the bottom of the drivall

over but no higher than the top of the post, let it fall under its own weight thus driving the post into the ground, but do not let go of the handle as you must not rely on the post to support the drivall.

• To ensure the post goes in correctly and to reduce the effort required, it is helpful to use a crowbar to create an initial drive hole. • To reduce lifting problems, place the drivall on the post held at an angle to the ground. Then raise the post vertical into the pilot

hole with the drivall on it.

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Crowbars and wrecking bars

- levers for moving heavy objects and forcing things apart. Crowbars (also called pinchbars) can also be used to make post holes and wrecking bars (also called jemmies or swan-necks) for pulling nails.

SAFETY POINTS

• Before use, check for damage to the metal to avoid painful cuts. • When post-holing, ensure the ground has been checked for underground utilities e.g. electricity cables. Keep your head clear as

you raise the crowbar. • When levering with a crowbar, be sure you will not hurt yourself if you slip, or if the object moves suddenly. • Wear steel toe-capped boots when using a crowbar. • Be sure you have firm footing. When lifting, bend your knees and use your leg muscles, keeping your back straight to avoid

straining it. • When not in use, lay tools flat on the ground. • Carry tools down by your side at the point of balance, with due regard for those in front and behind. • Wear strong appropriate footwear.

TECHNIQUE

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• When trying to lever large objects, place a suitable fulcrum such as a log or a stone as near as possible to the object to be moved (a distant fulcrum works poorly). >

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• It is useless trying to lever against soft ground. • Make sure the bar is placed under the centre of the object to be moved and over the centre of the fulcrum.

Shuv-holers

- a large implement, consisting of two pointed and long-handled spades hinged together. The shuv-holer is indispensable for quickly making a deep narrow hole in most types of soil and does away with the discomfort of groveling with your hands in deep muddy holes.

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SAFETY POINTS

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• Before deep digging (over 30cm) check for underground utilities - gas, water, electricity etc. • Ensure your head is kept well clear of the handles. • Carry it down by your side, held at the point of balance.

TECHNIQUE

• The shuv-holer is used like large tongs in a pincer movement. With the spades apart by several inches, drive them into the hole and then bring the two handles together.

• Bending your knees and keeping your back straight at all times, lift out the soil caught between the spades. Remember the shuv-holer should not be used for driving holes in hard or stony ground, as the blades will become bent and damaged.

Spades and forks

are digging tools, forks also serving to loosen soil.

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SAFETY POINTS

• Before deep digging (over 30cm) check for underground utilities - gas, water, electricity etc. • Wear strong appropriate footwear, preferably steel toe-capped boots. • Position your feet carefully to avoid cutting them with spades or impaling them with forks, particularly on hard or stony ground. • Carry tools at your side, held at the point of balance. • Ensure the handle is not loose and that both it and the shaft are free of splits or splinters.

TECHNIQUE

• Keep your weight over the tool to push it down with maximum force. • Use the heel or ball of the foot; using the arch can damage your foot. Press with your foot: don't kick down on the spade/ fork or

jump on it with both feet. • Do not use a spade or fork to lever stones, etc. from the ground.

Picks and mattocks

Picks are used to break up and loosen hard and stony ground, but should not be used to lever boulders or any great weight of compacted earth. - Mattocks are of the same construction as picks, but the heads are made of softer steel which will bend if used on rocks. The broad blade of mattocks is used for grubbing and breaking up hard ground. The 'axe' blade of grubbing mattocks is useful for cutting roots. Mattocks should not be used as levers.

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SAFETY POINTS

• Wear safety boots. Wear goggles if working on stony ground. Never wear gloves as these interfere with your grip. • Ensure that at all times the blade is secure on the handle and is not loose. The haft should stand proud of the top of the blade by

approximately 3cm or the blade could be propelled off the end of the haft by the force generated when the tool is in use. If the head cannot be firmly fastened on the haft, the tool must not be used.

• Make sure the haft is in good repair and has no cracks or splits which could injure hands. • Ensure you work at a safe distance from other people - at least equal to twice the length of your arm the length of the tool

combined.

TECHNIQUE

• To construct the tool, place the narrowest part of the haft through the top (i.e. the widest part)Â of the blade. With the blade top down, knock it firmly down on the haft by raising the tool and thumping the blade end of the haft hard on the ground several times. Take care not to drop the blade onto the fingers of your hand holding the haft.

• Hold the tool with one hand at the end of the haft and the other one near the head. Lift the tool, bending your knees and keeping your back straight. As you swing the tool down, slide your upper hand down to meet the lower.

• When grubbing or breaking ground, roll/ push the haft up and away from you over the point after digging in the point. Do not pull the haft towards you, as this could injure your back, particularly if done persistently.

• To disengage the tool: hold the blade in one hand and knock the bottom of the haft on hard ground while covering the blade end of the haft with your other hand until the blade works loose. >

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Shovels

Designed for lifting and shifting, not digging. They have a broader and thinner blade than spades.

SAFETY POINTS

• Position yourself to avoid twisting around to lift and deposit material. Maintain firm footing and use your legs and arms to do the lifting, not your back.

• Make sure the handle is in good repair, without splits or cracks to injure hands. • A large well-loaded shovel may have considerable weight: do not try to lift too much.

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TECHNIQUE

• When shovelling, work from as low a position as possible and lift keeping your back straight, to avoid straining it. To shift a pile of material, dig out from the bottom. Push the blade in, letting the material fall onto it. Then squat down to lift with your legs.

Rakes and cromes

garden rakes are lightweight general-purpose tools used for example to rake over bare ground, to break up the earth or remove small stones from the surface.

- cromes, also known as muck rakes or manure drags, are mainly used to drag reeds and rubbish from ponds.

- tarmac rakes are larger and stronger than garden rakes and are used to spread chippings and ballast on footpaths. >

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- hay rakes are wooden tools, used to rake grass and other light vegetation.

- springboks are used on lawns to comb out grass and rake leaves.

SAFETY POINTS

• Work from a balanced position and be careful of your footing, particularly in wet and muddy conditions. Check handles are in good repair, without splits or cracks which might injure hands and not polished smooth so that your grip might be reduced in the wet. Sand down the handle as necessary.

• Keep well clear of others, particularly in water where you can easily knock someone off balance. Watch behind yourself. • Always leave the prongs of rakes and cromes pointing down. If the prongs point upward someone might impale their foot or the

handle might fly up. >

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• Carry rakes and cromes by your side, held at the point of balance, with the prongs pointing downwards and away from yourself. If you trip, push the tool away from you. Do not attempt to carry more than one in each hand.

TECHNIQUE

• All rakes are used with two hands. Stand at an angle to the material you are raking. Swing

the rake away from you and roll the material towards you, keeping your back straight and using your arms and legs to do the pulling.

Hand-winch

- to pull heavy objects. Used to remove tree stumps from the ground and directional tree felling. It should be used only by operators who have received adequate training.

SAFETY POINTS

• Wear safety footwear, safety helmets for lifting operations and protective leather gloves when handling wire cables/ ropes. • The weight of the load you wish to lift must not exceed the safe working load (SWL) of the winch. The cable and slings in use with

the winch must have a breaking strain well in excess of the winch's SWL (eg. a 1600Kg SWL Tirfor Winch is supplied with cable of 8145Kg breaking strain). Check the winch's and cable's capacity before use.

• Similarly, the weight of any load you are attempting to pull across ground must not exceed the winch's specified pulling capacity (commonly 1.5 times the SWL, but check this.)

• Do not pull or lift people with a winch. • Winches and accessories are covered by the Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1998 and must be serviced/

maintained in good safe working order by competent personnel. A thorough examination of the equipment must be undertaken every 12 months by a competent person and an inspection made every six months. Each must be recorded.

• Examine the equipment for obvious defects such as cable frays or kinks before use and do not use until any defects have been competently replaced or repaired.

• Only people directly involved should be in the vicinity of the winch. Everyone should stay clear of the cable, its attachments and the load being winched.

• Do not use the cable doubled back on itself as a sling around the object to be moved. Always use a separate sling for this and attach it to the winch cable as shown. >

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• Follow the manufacturer's instructions and technical data explicitly. • Using a winch to pull over trees is to be firmly discouraged. For example, if the pull point is high in the tree the winch and rope will

rise off the ground when under tension and drop suddenly as the load is removed. If this use of a winch is truly necessary, the winch must be further away than 2.5 x the height of the tree. No-one should be within this distance of a tree being brought down by any method.

• Do not allow cables to kink or become crossed on the drum, as this reduces strength. • If using a tree as an anchor, make sure it is strong enough to take the pull without damage to itself and do not use smooth-barked

trees as they are easily damaged. • When winching, check that the anchor sling is not riding up the anchor and that the anchor is not cracking under the strain. • If a winch is used for lifting or lowering a load, eg. bridge beams, the operation and the equipment must comply with the Lifting

Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations.

Glossary & advice

• ANCHOR The fixed point to which a winch is attached, eg. stakes driven into the ground or a stout tree, against which the pull of the winch is exerted.

• ANCHOR SLING The wire rope/ cable/ fabric attachment from the anchor to the winch. • BALLAST Coarse stones etc used to form footpaths (used similarly in railways and roadworks). • BRASHING The trimming of smaller, lower branches of trees, (up to 1.8m, 6ft, in height), as close to the stem as possible so as to

avoid the formation of dead wood and to enable easier access. • COPPICING The periodical cutting-down of trees to ground level in order to stimulate multiple shoot regrowth. Saws are best used

on older trees and billhooks on younger, sappier trees. • CROSS CUTTING / LOGGING UP Action of chopping up felled timber into shorter lengths, after snedding. Do not cross cut on

steep slopes. • EDGED TOOLS Also referred to as sharp-edged tools, either one or two-sided sharp bladed tools (eg. billhooks and slashers). • FULCRUM Point against which a lever is placed to get purchase and on which it turns and is supported. • GRUBBING The action of derooting weeds, tree roots and brambles to prevent regrowth. • HAFT/ HANDLE/ SHAFT Broadly interchangeable terms for the part of the tool which is gripped with the hands and upon which the

axehead, slasher blade etc, attaches. • HEDGELAYING Process of cutting part-way through a standing tree and then bending the stem toward the horizontal, it being then

interwoven with other branches to form a barrier. HEDGING Creation, repair and maintenance of hedges. • HEEL The other end of the tool's shaft from the end at which the tool's head is fastened. The heel may commonly be a little

'swollen' (of greater circumference) compared with the body of the shaft. • SCRUB CLEARANCE Process of clearing areas of unproductive woodland dominated by shrubs, in order to promote wildlife

diversity. • SLING A length of cable or rope, normally with secure loops at each end to hook onto, used for attaching anchors or loads to be

moved. • SNEDDING Removal of branches from felled trees. Light axes and billhooks are best for removing smaller branches. • STOB TWISTER A device, commonly of metal but sometimes of wood, about 75cm long which is held at one end and grips a stob

(a short post used in step construction) or fence post. It both keeps hands safely away from the post being driven and prevents the post twisting around.

• THE TEMPER OF A BLADE The elasticity and durability/ hardness of the metal. • TILTH Cultivated/ tilled soil.

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All content copyright © 1986-2010 BTCV Ltd. Registered charity No. 261009