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Lesson 1 -- Horology History

Words in RED will be explained in later lessons.

The English word "clock" comes from the French word "cloche" meaning bell. The Latin for

bell is glocio, the Saxon is clugga, the German is glocke and the Chinese is .Updated on 30 Aug 2009

Year (B.C.)

3500 A sundial clock or a sun clock was first used around this time.

1400 Water clocks were invented in Egypt.

Year (A.D.)

723

Two Chinese Men ( ) invented the "Water Power Armillary

Sphere" ( ) with the function of telling time.Actually, It is like an small observatory and "Striking clock". It will tell the timeeveryQuarter (Drum) and every Shi Chen (Bell) automatically --- one day wasdivided into 12 Shi Chen or 100 Quarters in the Chinese culture.

It i t i d th fi t h i l l k i th ld b it h t


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1675 Dutch, Huygens invented a flat balance spring for the balance in a watch.

1704 Peter and Jacob Debaufre, along with Nicolas Facio, are the first to use rubies inwatch movements.

1735 John Harrison completed the first MarineTimekeeper H1

1770 Abranham-Louis Perrelet invented the pedometer winding system.

1780sAbranham-Louis Breguet was making perptuels, with 2 mainsprings wound by anoscillating platinum winding weight.

1787Levi Hutchins invented the first mechanical alarm clock which could ring only at 4am.

1801 Abraham Louis Breguet patented the Tourbillon.

1838 Louis Audemars invents stem winding and setting mechanism.

1868 P k Phili d h 1 i h


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1923

John Harwood invented thefirst Automatic wrist watch. Patent no.218,487

Rotating bezel to adjust time or perform hand-winding

15 jewels movement

The watch was produced in 1929.

1925 Patek Philippe produced the 1st perpetual calendar wrist watch.

1927 1st water resistant Rolex Oyster

1930 Tissot developed the 1st anti-magnetic wrist watch.

1949NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology) built the first atomic clock,which was based on ammonia (NH3).

1969 Omega Speedmaster landed on the moon.

1970 Hamilton releases the "Pulsar", the first electronic digital watch with L.E.D. .

1972 L i d S ik i t d t f di it l di l ith th L C D


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Lesson 2 -- Value12 Nov 2006

There are different categories of value of a watch:

Historical

Every watch has its history. Some watches represent the technology of a period of time;some watches recorded an historical event (e.g. Omega moonwatch); some watches remindyou the past (e.g. your birthday gift). Of course, if more people know its history, more

effects of the technology, more the value !

Materials

It is obvious that a watch which is made of gold, platinum and other expensive materials willcost you more.

Completeness

Besides of the watch, the box, the invoice, the tags (e.g. Rolex) and other stuffs came with

the watch affect the total value.Rarity

Rarer = $

Quality

Number of jewels used:


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Functions

More functions = more value !

Repeater, Chronography, Split second,Tourbillion, Perpetual calendar, Moon phase, Scubadiving, G.M.T., Power reserve indicator, Fly back, Retrograde, Multi-days, etc

Conditions

Dial:Cracks, chips, and discolouration or fading of the dial reduce the value; however, "re-write"

or repair the dial also reduce the historical value.

Case:The covers should be screwed on properly to a tight fit, the crystal should be clear.Be careful of the gold or silver plating, there should not have cracks or chips.

Movement:Make sure all functions work properly !Moreover, the movement should be all original pieces without modifications by others. Anymodifications from the original should be documented. It should have no serious wear on theparts.

Brand name

Brands with high auction price:

V h


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Rolex

Oyster Perpetual Ref.16520

Auction Price: US$ 13,000 (April 04)

Replica

There are many replicas or fakes in the market, especailly in the Internet. Therefore, do notbuy a watch from a stranger without examination. Be careful of some old watches with verygood conditions.


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Lesson 3 -- How to Disassemble a Mechanical Clock19 Nov 2006

Tools Required: Screw Drivers, Pliers, Tweezers (optional)

The mechanism of a clock and that of a watch are the same. We use a clock to learn the mechanism because of its bigger size.

This time we only emphasize on the most basic part of the clock; therefore, the alarm system will be ignored.

Mechanical Alarm Clock

HK$ 51


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Step 1

Set the alarm to ring until stop in order to release the power of the alarm.

Unscrew the T-shape handles (red circle) in the opposite direction as shown (blue circle). Thenopen the back cover. clock

Step 2

Unscrew the knobs and the feet (red circle) by a pliers. clock


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Step 3

Pull out the "heart" of the clock carefully.

And pull out all the hands carefully with your hands. clock


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Step 4

Put the clock face down and you can findseveral metal plates (red circle).

Use a pliers to make it straight and pullout the face very carefully.


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Step 5

After remove the face, you can see there is a big white gear if it did not fall off duringstep 4.


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Step 6

Pull out the big white gear (Blue 1),there is a small white gear (Red 1).

The parts in blue are parts of the alarmmechanism.

The Red 2 transfers the power from the2nd Wheel (introduced later) to thecenter pole - miniute hand.

The Red 1 transfers the power fromthe Red 2 with proper gear ratio to thecenter pole - hour hand. clock


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Step 7

Pull out the pin (Red circle) in order torelease the balance spring.


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Step 8

Turn the balance wheel (Blue 1) tomake the balance spring (Blue 2)coming off the hole and the slit (Redcircle).


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Step 9

Unscrew the screw (Red circle) and pullout the Balance wheel (Blue 1) verycarefully. watch


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Step 10

Unscrew the nuts (Red circle) a little bit(Not completely) and pull out the PalletFork (Blue 1) carefully.

If you succeed, the power of the mainspring will be released.


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Step 11

Main spring (Red A), Main spring for the alarm (Blue B).

Unscrew the nuts (Red circle) and pull out the metal plates.


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Step 13

The main parts of the clock. clock


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Step 14

Main Spring

&

Main Wheel

The main spring stores the power and let

the clock run about 48 hours.


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Step 15

Red 22nd wheel

Red 33rd wheel

Red 44th wheel -- second hand

Red 5

Escape wheel

Red APallet Fork


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2nd wheel transfers the power to thewhite gear and transfer to the center poleto run the minute hand. watch


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Step 16

2nd wheel is removed.


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3rd wheel watch


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Step 17

3rd wheel is removed.


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Step18

4th wheel is removed.


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Escape wheel watch repair


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Pallet Fork

For a watch, there will be two jewels instead of two metal pins.Except for some cheap watches.


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Escape wheel, Pallet Fork, Balance Spring and Balance wheel

form the ESCAPEMENT which controls the time of a clock.

Balance Spring oscillates and Balance Wheel swings as a resultthey divide the time.

Pallet Fork and escape wheel control the power releaseaccording to the "divided time".


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Lesson 4 -- Structure & Theory26 Nov 2006

There are 4 main parts for a mechanical clock or a mechanical watch.

1. Power2. Wheel Train3. Escapement4. Display

In this lesson, we still use the clock as an example,

1. Power

The brass gear is called Mainwheel.

The long thin metal strip is called Mainspring.

The amount of energy can be stored mostly depends on the elasticity (material, e.g. steel) and theeffectinve length of the mainspring.Most watches have about 50 hours power and some expensive watches have 8 or more days power.e.g. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master 8 Days (aboutUS$16,000)


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2. Wheel Train

The wheel train include gear 2, 3, 4.

There are two functions for the wheel train.

1. Transfer the power from the Mainwheel to the Balance Wheel. Whenthe energy goes through the wheel train, the high torque form theMainwheel will become the high speed oscillation at theBalanceWheel.

2. Calculate the time according to the gear ratio between each wheel.o Gear 2 -- Minuteo Gear 4 -- Second

3. Escapement

Escape wheel, Pallet Fork, Balance Spring and Balance wheel formtheESCAPEMENT which controls the time of a clock.

Balance Spring oscillates and Balance Wheel swings as a result they dividethe time.

Anchor and escape wheel control the power release according to the "dividedtime".

There are different types of balance wheels, I will introduce them later.


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4. Display

Show you the time !

How to calculate the time with the gears

1 perod = the yellow dot goes from left to right and back to left.

Frequency = 1 / Time for one period

There are 4 main frequencies for the balance wheel in a watch.

1. 18000 per hour2. 21600 per hour3. 28800 per hour4. 36000 per hour


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A : Pallet ForkPay attention to the two pins (red rectangles)on the Pallet Fork

in the following movie.

B: Balance wheel

5: Escape wheel

I put some pigments on the parts for movie recording only, theweight of the pigment will affect the frequency of the balancespring, as a result, affect the accuracy of the time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMD489ZMp2c&feature=player_embedded

When the balance wheel swings, it will control the Pallet Fork tolock or release the escape wheel.

Play back speed is reduced for easy viewing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMD489ZMp2c&feature=player_embeddedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMD489ZMp2c&feature=player_embeddedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMD489ZMp2c&feature=player_embedded


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The frequency of the balance wheel can be calculated from the formula:

For the clock in lesson 3

Tp(escape wheel) 15

Ta(escape wheel) 8

Tp(4th) 60

Ta(4th) 6

Tp(3rd) 36

Ta(3rd) 7

Tp(2nd) 70Ta(2nd) 10

Frequency = ( 70 x 36 x 60 x 15 x 2 ) / ( 7 x 6 x 8 ) = 13500


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The gear ratio for the wheel train should be:

Because the gear ratio cannot be changed, the accuracy of a clock or a watch can only be adjusted by the frequency of the balance wheel.

The frequency of the balance wheel can be changed by adjusting the effective length of the balance spring.Longer the effective length = lower the frequency

Effective lenght of the balance spring = B to C


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Lesson 5 -- Watch Tools2 Dec 2006

Good tools are prerequisite to the successful execution of a job.

Eye Loupe

2 - 3X : for Disassembly and Assembly

4 - 5X : Balance Spring adjustment

Note: Higher magnification = closer the focusing distance. In other words, the distance between the eye loupeand the watch is very short. e.g. 10X loupe comes in focus at 1 inch.

Sidebar Remover

Removing spring bars from watch cases with blind holes.


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Watch Movement Holder

This type can hold the movement only.

Do not hold the movement too tight, too much force may damage the movement.

Case Knife

Open the "clip on" case back.

Note: Put the watch on the watch holder before opening the case back.

Case Opener

Open the "screw on" case back.

Note: Put the watch on the watch holder before opening the case back.


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Screw Driver

Open the case back which is locked up by screws.

Disassembly and Assembly the movement.

Note: Only use the correct size screw driver !The size of the screw driver is smaller than the screw will damage the screw.The size of the screw driver is bigger than the screw will scratch the parts.


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Blower

Clear off dust and other debris from watch dials and movement before assembling.

There are many different tools on the market, you may go to my tools shop have a look:

Watch Repair Tools Shop
http://horologyzone.com/watch.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch.html


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Lesson 6 -- Cleaning and Oiling17 Dec 2006

There are three steps for watch cleaning:

1. Cleaning2. Lubrication3. Adjustment

Cleaning

Before cleaning, we have to disassemble the watch (Teach Later).

If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, you can put all parts, except the main spring, into the ultrasonic cleaner. For safety and the sake of the parts,only use filtered water with the ultrasonic cleaner. More information -- >How to use Ultra Sonic Cleaner
http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/how-to-use-ultra-sonic-cleaner.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/how-to-use-ultra-sonic-cleaner.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/how-to-use-ultra-sonic-cleaner.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/how-to-use-ultra-sonic-cleaner.html


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Ultrasonic Cleaner

We do not want to pull out the main spring from the main wheel; therefore, we do not clean it with water.

No matter you have the ultrasonic cleaner or not, we have to clean all parts with the Cleaning Naphtha.

Immerse all parts, except the main spring and the screws -- more greasy dirt, in the Cleaning Naphtha for 1 minute and use a soft brush to cleanthe parts if needed. After cleaning, put all parts on a white paper to let it dry.

Then, we can immerse the main spring and the screws in the same Cleaning Naphtha and clean it.


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In general, a watch have to pass a "6 position 6 days" test before giving it back to the owner. For theC.O.S.C.certified watch, it should pass the16 days test.

Because I am still a beginner in watch, I will do my best to learn and share my knowledge in the future.

I wish I can disassemble, assemble and repair a watch in 2007 and share the experience in Watch Repair.
http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/cosc.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/cosc.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/cosc.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/cosc.html


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Step 2.

Release the power of the Main Spring.

Hold the Crown tight with one hand.

Another hand use a tweezer to turn the click's teeth(red dot)counter-clockwise in order to unlock the Ratchet Wheel

which is connected to the Main Spring.

Release the Crown slowly and let it and the Main Spring tospin in order to release the Main Spring.


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The main spring is unlocked in the image.

Parts in green circle


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Step 3.

Unscrew the screw in green circle.

Pick out the Balance Cock and the Balance Wheel together --- connected bythe Balance Spring.


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Step 4.

Unscrew the screw in green circle.

Pick out the Pallet Lever Bridge and the Pallet Fork(green arrow)separately.


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Step 7.

Remove the Mainspring Barrel (Green)


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Step 12.

Unscrew and remove the Cover Plate.

Be careful, there is a small spring under the plate.

Step 13.

Remove the Clutch Lever and the "R" shape spring.


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Step 14.

Remove the Set Lever.

Be careful, there is a small part (Set Lever "Pushpin")under it.

Set Lever is used to prevent the Crown and stem to bepulled out of the movement. But you can push the SetLever "Pushpin" and pull the Crown and stem out ifneeded (e.g. pick out the movement from the case).


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Step 15.

Remove the Set Lever "Pushpin" (Green), the Crown and stem, and other gears.

Top: Crown and stem

Left: Winding Pinion

Right: Clutch - Pay attention on the teeth (Red and Green)


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Step 16.

Turn the movement over and remove the Wheel Bridge.


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Step 18.

Remove the 3rd Wheel.

Unscrew and remove the cover plate.


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Step 19.

Remove the Escape Wheel --- Silver color

Remove the Center Wheel (2nd Wheel) --- Gold color.

Escape Wheel Center Wheel


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Only the Jewels left.


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Step 1.

Open the Mainspring Barrel

Put your fingers on the edge and press down.

Step 2.

Pick out the Arbor (right)


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Step 3.

Pull out the Mainspring slowly and carefully.

Pay attention on the end of the Mainspring and the Barrel in green circle.

This design is for Hand Winding.


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Step 4.

Assembly

According to the winding direction, place the Mainspring and the Barrel asshown on the left hand side.

Step 5.

Pick up the Mainspring without changing its direction.


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All parts of the Auto-Winding Mechanism


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Release the power.


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Unscrew and pick up the plate.


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Pay attention on the end of the Mainspring (Y- shape).

This design let the Mainspring slide along the surface of the inside surface of theMainspring Barrel when the Mainspring is fully winded.

Therefore, the Mainspring will not be broken by the unlimited winding by theAutomatic-Winding mechanism.

Pull the stem to the 3rd position (Time Setting)

A lever will stop the Wheels from turning - second hand hacking.


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Unscrew and pick up the plate.

Caution !!!

There are many small parts under the plate.

The slot on the plate is for putting back an U-shape spring mentioned later.


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Pull the stem to 2nd position (DateSetting)

When turning the crown, a gear willpush A and B will push the "DatePlate"


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This mechanism locks the Date Plate in the correct position.

Pay attention to the U-shape spring.Pull it out and place it back through the slot on the plate during assembly.


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When the Watch is running, the hourwheel turns and turns the Date Plate every24-hour by A.

If there is a Day Plate, B will change theday as A.


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Tourbillon2009-Sep-22 updated

A tourbillon, "whirlwind" in French, a type of mechanical clock or watch escapement, was invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet. It isdesigned to counter the effects of gravity and other perturbing forces on the balance wheel, the balance spring and the escapement that can affectthe accuracy of a chronometer. This is accomplished by mounting the escapement in a rotating frame, so that the effect of gravity cancels outwhen the escapement is rotated 180. The effects of gravity were particularly problematic when pocketwatches were carried in the same positionfor most of the day. In a tourbillon, the entire escapement assembly rotates, including balance wheel, escape wheel, and pallet fork (anchor). Therate of rotation varies per design but has generally become standardized at one rotation per minute.

The tourbillon is considered to be one of the most challenging of watch mechanisms to make and is valued for its engineering and design

principles. In modern watch designs, a tourbillon is not required to produce a highly accurate timepiece because wristwatches are by

nature in a constantly changing position when worn. Nevertheless, the tourbillon is one of the most valued complications of collector's

watches and premium timepieces. In fact, modern implementations typically allow the tourbillon to be seen through a window in the watch face.

In addition to enhancing the charm of the piece, the tourbillon acts as a second hand as it rotates once per minute.


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This animation shows the first 10 seconds of the Tourbillon operation. In fact, the

yellow arrow ( second hand ) will complete a full circle in 60 seconds.

The type of tourbillon was invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet

This animation shows the first 10 seconds of the CARROUSEL operation, the

operation of balance wheel is not shown.

In fact, the balance wheel and second hand will complete a full circle in 60 seconds.

The true name of this escapement is called Carrousel which was invented by Bahne

Bnniksen in 1892; however, most people call it Tourbillon nowadays.

In the late 20th century, the first research into multi-axis tourbillon movements was done by British clockmakers Anthony Randall and RichardGood, eventually producing 2 - and 3 - axis tourbillon movements.


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FRANCK MULLER 3 - axis tourbillon


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Bimetallic Compensation Screwed Balance

The screws around the perimeter of the balance can be moved in and out, moved to different holes, and smallwashers can be placed under them to increase their weight. They are used initially to poise the balance, inorder words, remove heavy spots and balance the balance.

When the screws near the cut ends of the rim are moved in or out, they effect the amount of temperaturecompensation the balance provides. This allows matching the compensation effects of the balance to thetemperature error of the particular balance spring. Adding weight near the cut end of the rim or movingscrews to holes near the cut ends increases the compensating effect of the balance for both heat and cold.

Besides the screws, the balance is made of two different metal in order to compensate the effect oftemperature.

Screwed Balance

Around 1930, a number of new alloys (cold-worked and heat treated) became available for balance springs.The most famous of these new alloys was a combination of nickel, chromium, berrylium, titanium, aluminum,and iron and was trade-named the Nivarox. The best grade of Nivarox springs (Nivarox I Highest) provides atemperature error of only about 0.3 seconds per C per day.

The new alloy allowed the use of monometallic balances because the balance no longer needed to providecompensation for the temperature errors of the spring.


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Seiko Spring Drive

Some people say that Spring Drive is a quartz movement because the time is calculated by the frequency of the quartz oscillation rather than that

of the balance spring and there is no escapement. However, the design of Spring Drive bases on the mechnical watch movement, there is an Tri-synchro Regulator which operates as the conventional escapement.

The idea of Spring Drive was conceived in 1977 by an engineer at SEIKO EPSON's Suwa plant in Japan.There are 3 key innovations make Spring Drive possible.

1. Tri-synchro regulator

2. Mainspring3. Magic Lever


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Tri-synchro regulator

Tri-synchro regulator (section in red) replaces the escapement - the weakest and most vulnerable part of thetraditional watch mechanism.

There are 3 main parts in a Tri-synchro regulator:

Quartz Oscillator - generate the frequency

Integrated Circuit - calculate the time from the frequency and control the electric currect to pass through theelectro-magnetic coil

Glide Wheel - this wheel, which is controled by the electro-magnetic coil, connect the Tri-synchro regulatorwith the traditional wheel train and turns 8 times per second.

Mainspring

An entirely new spring was created using a new high elastic material called Spron 510 to create more power. The result is a mainspring candeliver more power more smoothly and longer - Spring Drive has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Spron 510 is the registered trademark of Seiko Instruments Inc.

The electrical power required by the Quartz oscillator and the I.C. is generated by the electro-magnetic coil. The energy releases from theMainspring, passes through the wheel train and exchanges the mechanical energy for the electricity.


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Magic Lever -- automatic winding

The new Magic Lever system allows for more efficient transmission of the rotor's power to the mainspring. It is fitted directly to the shaft of therotor and thus creates more efficient winding of the spring. This new system is 30% more efficient than traditional automatic winding systems.


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How to adjust the accuracy of a mechanical watch2009-Sep-23

The accuracy of a mechanical watch is affected by the environment, and we can overcome the effect by properly adjust the balance wheel and

balance spring of a mechanical watch.

For adjusting the balance wheel, please refer to "Different Type Of Balance Wheel".

For most poor men watches, such as the Seiko 5, or even some low price C.O.S.C. Watches, the Balance Wheel is nonadjustable, the only thing

we can adjust is the Effective Length of the balance spring.

Before, showing you the common mechanical watch movement, I would like to show you this:

This is a Swiss Made Hand-winding Mechanical Watch Movement, you can see the word "unadjusted" on the movement.
http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/balance-wheel.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/balance-wheel.htmlhttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/balance-wheel.html


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Click to view large image

Actually, if you would like to adjust the accuracy of this movement, you have to

pullout the pin which locks which holding the balance spring in place.

Unfortunately, the pin of this old movement was lost before I purchased it for

HK$ 30.The PIN is look like the one in a mechanical clock but much smaller.

.

Red ellipse - Pin on a mechanical clock
http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/other-know-image/balance-spring/old-movement-1.jpghttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/other-know-image/balance-spring/old-movement-1.jpghttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/other-know-image/balance-spring/old-movement-1.jpghttp://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/other-know-image/balance-spring/old-movement-1.jpg


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This photo shows the balance wheel with the balance spring.

On the right hand side, it is the plate over the balance wheel.

You can see there is a hole on the metal cube, this hole is for the Pin

mentioned above and the diameter of it is about 0.02 mm.
http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/other-know-image/balance-spring/old-movement-balance-wheel-2.jpg


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This is my first time making a small part, the Pin; therefore, it only last for about 3

minutes, just enough for me to record a movie.

Although the movement can operate, it is not stable. You can see, through the photo, the

distance between each circle of the balance spring is not even, this is one of the problem.

Moreover, the plane of the balance spring is not level ( not shown ).All these problems

make the movement unstable and unreliable.

For modern watch movement, there is a "Fast , Slow" handle.

Mechanical Clock - for easy viewing the parts which are similar to the mechanical watch movement
http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/other-know-image/balance-spring/old-movement-balance-wheel-2.jpg


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The Balance Spring pass through a slot which is the ""Fast , Slow"handle"

After removing the balance spring, you can clearly see the slot (redellipse).

If there is a "Fast , Slow" handle, we do not have to remove the pin in order to adjust the Effective Length of the balance spring.

Assume all factors are unchanged, if the Effective Length of the balance spring is extended, the watch runs slower. If the Effective Length of the

balance spring is shortened, the watch runs faster.


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Balance Spring Effective Length = A to B

In page 1, the Unadjusted Movement does not have the "Fast , Slow" handle;

therefore, B is the same as C which is the place of the Pin. So, removing the pin

is required for adjusting the accuracy of the watch. Pull out the pin is easy;

however, put it back is nightmare !


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On a modern watch movement, you can find the "Fast , Slow" handle next to the

end of the balance spring C which is locked in place with a screw rather than a

Pin.

If you have to adjust the accuracy of a watch, you can easily turn the handle to

the left or the right according to the indications : + faster , - slower.

The "Fast , Slow" handle make the task easier, but you are recommended to try

and learn on a useless movement first because the Balance Spring is the weakest

part of a movement.


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Water Proof

Water Proof Test

Bergeon Water Proof Tester

1. Fill the cylinder with water up to the red line.

2. Hang the watch on the hook, out of the water and screw on the lid tightly.Be sure that the watch is in the position completely out of the water.

3. Close the air-releasing valve.

4. Increase pressure with the lever, pumping up to any given pressure.1 atmosphere pressure = 10 m depth

5. Immerse the watch into the water.

6. Release air pressure gradually by opening the air-releasing valve.

7. If the watch is not perfectly water-tight, bubbles will emerge where the water tightness isincomplete (e.g. round the crown, glass, back of the case).Please note some bubbles may also appear on the external turning bezel, or the crown, this isbecause of a little residual external air.

8. Test finish, take out the watch before the indicator reaches zero.

Most people ask: Can I wear my watch to swim ?

Mark on watch Hand Wash Swimming Skin Diving Scuba Diving

Water Resist OK NO NO NO


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Moon Phase

Moon Phase (Lunar phase) refers to the appearance of the illuminated portion of the Moon as seen by us. The Moon phases vary cyclically as theMoon orbits the Earth, according to the changing geometry of the Earth, Moon, and Sun. The time between successive occurrences of the same

phase (e.g. full moon) is about 29.53 days (29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes) on average.

Because this time is not an constant, making the moon phase shown on an mechanical watch to be accurate is impossible. Therefore, adjustmentis required.

C U R R E N T M O O N

moon phase info Change to the North or the South Hemisphere by clicking the circle next to the current time.

The Moon-Phase Watch I like the most is the Ball Watch Moon Phase.

Movement: Automatic BALL calibre 968 (modified base on ETA calibre)

Shock resistance: 5,000Gs

Water resistance: 100m

Anti-magnetic: 4,800A/m

Price: about US$1000

I like this watch is not because of its movement or performance, I like it because of its' "Bright Moon" in the dark.
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Marine Clock

An accurate clock is essential for the navigation.

For every 15 degree that one travels eastward, the local time moves one hour ahead. Similarly, traveling West, the local time moves back onehour for every 15 degree of longitude. Therefore, if we know the local times at two points on Earth, we can use the difference between them tocalculate how far apart those places are in longitude, east or west.

In the 17th century, sailors and navigators can find out the local time by observing the Sun, but finding out the longitude require the time of areference point, e.g. Greenwich.

Although accurate pendulum clocks existed in that time, these clocks could not keep accurate time at sea because of the motions of a ship andchanges in humidity and temperature.

The first marine clock was completed in 1735 by John Harrison.

It is spring-driven and only runs for one day. The moving parts are controlled and counterbalanced by springs;therefore, H1 is independent of the direction of gravity.


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Quarz Kaliber

The basic principle behind all watches and clocks is a device that oscillates at a fixed frequency. Early mechanical watches and clocks used a pendulum

or springs with some form of regulator to keep the frequency fixed. Time is simply measured by counting these oscillations. A simple device might

oscillate at 1 Hz (once per second), therefore 1 second would elapse for each oscillation.

Quartz timepieces use the nature of the quartz crystal to provide a very accurate resonator which gives a constant electronic signal for timekeeping

purposes. Quartz crystals are piezoelectric, which means that they generate an electrical charge when mechanical pressure is applied to them. On the

other hand, quartz crystals also vibrate if an electrical charge is applied to them. The frequency of the vibration is a function of the cut and shape of the

crystal. Fortunately, quartz crystals can be cut at a consistent size and shape, making them extremely stable resonators for keeping very accurate time.

The quartz crystal resonator (oscillator) is in the shape of a small tuning fork, laser-trimmed or precision lapped.

The vibration frequency of a quartz crystal inside a modern watch or a clock is usually 32,768 Hz which is conveniently small, and as this frequency is

a power of two and can easily be counted using a 15 - bit binary digital counter. Once the circuit supplying power to the crystal counts that this number


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of oscillations have occurred, it increases the recorded time by one second.

When the "second" is found, the rest of time can be calculated by the same mechanism inside a traditional mechanical watch.

The advantage of quartz watches is their simplicity and accuracy - crystals maintain their frequency over broad operating conditions and are cheap to

make.

For a low price quartz watch, the accuracy is about 1 sec / day, but only cost you as low as about US$ 15.

If you need higher accuracy, there are two famous choices:

Breitling Super Quartz

Accuracy: 1 sec / month

Price: US$ 1000 up


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Seiko 9F61A

Accuracy: 10 sec / year

Price: US$ 1500 up

These expansive quartz movements are due to their complex circuits which can compensate the effect of temperature change. Most atoms of the

materials will vibrate faster when temperature increases and slower when temperature decreases, this also applies on the quartz crystal. Therefore, a

"temperature correction" circuit is necessary for high accuracy products.


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Sun Dial

Sun is mother of life, without it, nearly all creatures die. Sun is also the mother of civiliation, without it, agriculture, navigation might not be developed

fast.

Sundial or Sun Clock is an instrument telling time by the positions of the sun. Sundial may be the oldest of all scientific instruments. Nowadays,

sundial is not only an instrument, but arts and crafts.


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Although the Sun is our mother, most people do not trust her, most people think that Sundials are not accurate, they tell the incorrect time.

However, we could as easily say that sundials tell the correct time but clocks do not. It all depends on how we measure time.

If we define Day as the period we can see the Sun and Night as the period we cannot see it ( ignore the bad weather, clouds, ...), Day time is longer in

Summer and shorter in Winter. Therefore, Day and Night is not equally divided into 2 parts, A.M, P.M., as we use in our daily life.

To astronomers, sun time is called Apparent Solar Time, and clock time is called Local Mean Time. The word MEAN suggests that while the sundial is

accurate, the clock only shows the Average value. The difference between these 2 time varies every day of the year. Fortunately, the values are very

close from one year to the next. This difference is called Equation of Time (EoT).

The Equation of Time is caused by 2 factors:

Varing orbital speed of the Earth around the Sun

The axis of the Earth is tilted against the plane of its orbit

around the Sun


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In different places, the sun time is different; therefore we cannot

use one sundial around the world to replace the clock. The sun

rises in the east and for every degree of longitude west from a

reference point, 4 minutes should be added to the sundial time,

and eastwards substraction is needed.


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The black lines indicate the shadows of Sundials.

As mentioned above, If the sundial at the center is the reference,

the one on the West shows 11:56 a.m., so you need to "add" 4

minutes to tell the right time.

The one on the East shows 12:04 p.m., you need to "subtract" 4

minutes to tell the right time.

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