President’s Update 1

Lindsay Bebb—AABC Ltd VTP 2

Making a Kokedama Moss Ball 4

Minis, Mame and Shohin 6

Seasonal Notes 8

Preparing for Show 9

AABC Ltd 2011 Convention 10

Collecting Bonsai from the Wild 12

Club Diary 12

Volume 19, Issue 4 August 2010 T h e S o u t h A u s t r a l i a n B o n s a i S o c i e t y I n c o r p o r a t e d

SA Bonsai... The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

President’s Update ...

Welcome to the last month of winter. This time of the year is a bit quiet so get every-thing cleaned up and some repotting should and can be done before Spring arrives and every thing starts to go berserk.

Welcome to 3 new members, John Lange, Athena and Mary Skalfsas, hope you enjoy the friendships, knowledge and activities at The SA Bonsai Society.

June saw Bob, Marie, Janet and I do a tag-team demonstration with four club junipers. The trees each had different styles, hope you got something out of it. I have learnt to make sure I have a good look at the tree I will be working on before I volunteer for these demonstrations - you sometimes need to work outside of the regular zone of think-ing when approaching ‘difficult’ trees.

July had Janet give a talk on Tree on/over rock and Andrew did a rock setting with 11 trees.

Andrew's Ash dig at his community plot went well and I know that the small group who attended went away with some lovely little trees that have potential to be even lovelier bonsai in the future.

On the 24th and 25th of July we hosted Lindsay Bebb as guest demonstrator through the AABC Ltd Visiting Tutor Programme. Lindsay worked with 10 members at each of the three workshops, at times working with members on more than one tree each. The Master Class on Saturday afternoon was another success, with Lindsay working through 8 trees that had previous work. The goal was that through teaching on a variety of trees, not only did those participating achieve further refinement with their trees, but that those observing were also able to share in the learning experience.

Our Annual Bonsai Show is the weekend of 9th and 10th of October, with set up on

Friday 8th, starting at 9am. Once again we will need members to volunteer to help set up, run activities, keep a watchful eye over the bonsai, sell raffle tickets, receive admission fees, and to work on the sales table. We have a very social and fun weekend, and in the process are able to further promote bonsai more widely across the community. Please put your hand up to help throughout the weekend … this single major event for our year helps us to join up new members, and also acts as a fundraiser so that we are able to subsidize other activities throughout the year (including the Visiting Tutor Programme).

Philip and Janice are representing our club as delegates to the BCI Seminar in China during October … I am certain that they will come back with many memories, stories, and photos to share with us.

The New Zealand Bonsai Association will hold their convention on 15-17 October, hosted by the Hamilton Bonsai Club. Further information is available from http://www.bonsaiconvention.net.nz .

The Royal Adelaide show starts on Friday 2nd September and runs through to Saturday 10th September. This year we see an increased number of bonsai on show with plants being changed over on the Monday evening in preparation for a second round of judging on the Tuesday.

Perth Seminar is set for May 2011 with early bird registration by 1st November. Further details are found in this newsletter. Remember that early-bird registration closes on 1 November 2010,

Hope your trees are well protected and you are ready for the burst of growth they will undergo in the next few weeks.

Brian.

http://www.bonsaisa.org.au

Now is the time to start thinking about your bonsai for display or sale at our 2010 Show on Saturday 9 and Sunday 10 October. These are a few of the bonsai from the 2009 Show.

Page 2

AABC Ltd Visiting Tutor Programme Lindsay Bebb Hosted by The SA Bonsai Society Incorporated, 24& 25 July 2010

Volume 19, Issue 4

A weekend that was packed with Bonsai learning for everyone who attended... These weekends provide us with opportunities to not only learn from others who live further afield, but allows us to socialise and consolidate our pool of knowledge and experiences ... whether over a cup of tea or coffee, shared food or even a glass or three of wine!

It is always a pleasure to host people who are as genuine and warm as Lindsay and Glenis Bebb. While Lindsay worked through countless trees over the weekend, was micro phoned up so as everyone could share in his tutoring, Glenis was, as always, supportive and at hand throughout the weekend.

Glenis even managed a private paper toll lesson with Marie Petersen on the Sunday morning!

Visitors from the Hills Bonsai Group, and The Northern Bonsai Club shared in the weekend. I am sure that they went away equally as motivated as others from the weekend’s activities.

The Saturday afternoon Master-Class was a huge success, not only were 8 trees worked on intensively, but they were trees that had previ-ously been worked, some were established bonsai, and refinement was achieved. Sometimes it is a matter of seeing a tree from a different angle, not only through different eyes. Lindsay certainly demonstrated how accomplished he is, and is able to communicate his knowledge to others in a friendly and respectful manner.

Let us see the results of this year’s VTP Weekend, through photos. Andrew Ward

Page 3 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

AABC Ltd Visiting Tutor Programme Lindsay Bebb Hosted by The SA Bonsai Society Incorporated, 24& 25 July 2010

Page 4 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

How to Make Kokedama-Moss Ball http://www.cutebonsaitree.com/what-is-kokedama.html (sourced 30 July 2010)

What is Kokedama? Kokedama is a green moss covered type of bonsai.

Unlike other bonsai styles, its history is not so old and it's said the idea originated from Nearai, which was a popular bonsai style during the Edo Period (1603 to 1868 ) in Japan, and is a bonsai grown first in a pot and taken out of the pot and set on a stand to enjoy without a pot. In the Nearai Style (Nearai refers to care and treating of roots during repotting. It is a way to remove all dirt that has been sticking fast to the roots since the process of their development started. Water is used to wash off earth held by the root. It is complicated and,

since its main purpose is not to damage the root, work should be carried out by break-ing down the dirt and washing off the root together.- http://bonsai.shikoku-np.co.jp/en/word/2009/05/nearai.html on 30 July 2010), the bonsai was grown so fully and tightly in the pot that the root and soil would maintain its shape when taken out of the pot. What follows is some basic information on how to make your first Kokedama. 1. Prepare the materials: Peat soil Akadama soil Green moss Newspaper Thread Scissors Water Gloves Bucket 2. Mix the soils and make the moss ball Example kokedama mix peat soil 70% akadama 30% peat soil 50% sand type soil 15% aka-

dama soil 35% (you could use the fines from sieving diatomite in place of aka-dama - Ed)

Important to making kokedama balls is to mix the soils well, and make a clay. (you can use your own soil blend. If the consis-tency of the clay is too loose, it will break when it's watered.) Example ball shapes square round triangle tear shape star, etc. 3. Remove the soil off of your plant

4. Insert your plant into the ball

Page 5 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

How to Make Kokedama-Moss Ball http://www.cutebonsaitree.com/what-is-kokedama.html (sourced 30 July 2010)

5. Moisten the green moss

Watering the green moss 6. Cover the ball with the green moss

Cover the whole ball with the green moss and bind it with thread. Recommended thread: same or similar color to the moss cotton thread (it dissolves into the soil

after a while so you don't need to take it off after the green moss grows on the ball)

fishing thread (tough and not noticeable but you need to take it off after the green moss grows on the ball)

7 Tada! Done!

After you have made your kokedama, you need to water it, so prepare a bucket which contains enough water to cover the green moss ball (not the plant) and leave it for about 10 minutes.

Happy kokedama!

Your Library

The SA Bonsai Society boasts one of the largest collections of bonsai books, journals, magazines, DVDs and Videos in Australia.

Where a number of clubs charge members for the privilege of borrowing resources from their libraries, The SA Bonsai Society Library continues to provide the borrowing of resources as a privilege of your annual membership fees.

Please remember that our library is staffed by volunteers and that in order to maintain an orderly borrowing and return of resources you will need to observe the following courtesies:

Library facilities are available only at meetings - first Tuesday of each month (not January)

Resources are to be returned the month following borrowing (please phone Nan on 08 8293 3100 if you are unable to attend the meeting to return resources.

You are able to extend loans but please check with Nan, Trevor or Philip beforehand as another member may be waiting on that resource.

Please wear your current club badge - borrowing priveleges are for current financial members.

When returning resources please wait until Nan, Trevor or Philip can check your cards. This way they know who the resources are from and it saves them being mislaid.

Newsletters from other clubs are kept on file and are available for reading only at meetings … sorry, not available for borrowing.

We have subscriptions for BCI Bonsai and Stone Appreciation Magazine, and Bonsai Focus. We also have an extensive selection of past issues of Bonsai Europe and Bonsai Today (these combined in mid 2008 to become Bonsai Focus).

Please follow these few guidelines and help to ensure the continued enjoyment of our library for all members. Thank you all

Nan, Trevor and Philip

Selection of plants (above) used by Brenda Parker in making one of her kokedama (pictured below), displayed at the 2010 AABC Ltd Convention

Page 6 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

Minis, Mame and Shohin Brian Osborn

Interest in Miniature Bonsai has been around for quite awhile. Daimyo (Count) Yorinaga Matsudaira (1875 - 1944),) whose interest began in 1923. Zeko Nakamura (1900 - 1989), a professional actor has spread interest in miniatures in and outside of Japan through his many books, includ-ing “Bonsai Miniatures, Quick and Easy”,

http://www.suzs-space.com/art-and-craft/bonsai-miniatures-quick-easy-zeko-nakamura/prod_260.html on 30 July 2010

http://www.bonsaipots.net/index.php?page=mini-porcelain-4 (30 July 2010)

Zeko Nakamura with two of his col-lected bonsai. Photograph was made prior to 1972 and came from Zeko's collection. (Bonsai Journal, ABS, Spring 1983, pg. 2) Source http://www.phoenixbonsai.com/Days/DaysDec.html (30 July 2010) The guide lines for miniature bonsai differ from one author to another; even the Japanese do not have hard and fast rules on size classifications. In one book I have - Minis are classified as 7 cm [3"] or less, Mame as 7 cm [3"] to 10 cm [ 4"] and Shohin as 10 cm [4"] to 25 cm [10"]. (Albek and Schoech). In another book Minis are called Shito, which means, ‘fingertip, tiny pea or poppy seed’, (may be carried on the fingertip) and are 5 to 7.5 cm [2"-3"]. Mame, baby, little bean and may be carried in the palm of the hand. They are 5 to 15 cm [2"-6"] or 7.5 to 15 cm [3"- 6”]. This book refers to Mini and Mame as Shohin, and the size is 15 to 30 cm [6" - 12”], this size is called Kotate, small to medium [can be carried in one hand. In Japanese Mame means ‘bean’, its nickname is Mame-Bon. (Koreshoff). In the first book (Albek and Schoech) over 10" is called Kifu, so as you can see there is a lot of variation.

If you are going to show them in an impor-tant display you would have to make sure of the correct size they require for each cate-gory; In Australia we measure from roots or ground level but in America it's from the rim of the pot, other than that it's not a critical issue. I don't know why bonsai are not classified as Small, Medium and Big but I suppose that would be too easy. The only problem I see that might occur is with Cascade and Semi-Cascade, they could be called minia-ture by the above method by some, but being measured to the tip of the flowing branch and usually being in a class of their own, the problem normally would not arise. All that said, size is a question without a simple answer! Basically the tree should look small while giving the feel of a large and aged tree that suits its pot, rather than being an exact size. Types of trees should have small leaves, fruit, needles, branches and internodes. If it is really small, a leaf can represent an apex or a branch but if it is deciduous the tree won't look very attractive without some sort of branch structure.

Page 7 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

Minis, Mame and Shohin Brian Osborn

There is no limit to how small a tree can be, even in a thimble. Some can be so small they don't look like a tree so the aim is for them to have that natural look and feeling of being something like a tree. I find pots a bit of trial and error, some-times it takes time until the tree and pot look good together. Also pots can be ornaments in themselves without a tree in them. For propagation you can plant a seed in a small pot which will be its home for good but it takes a long time to mature but you can refine and shape it without scars and design a good root system. Seedlings and small cuttings are similar to seeds but can save about one to two years in time. Thick cuttings or ae-rial layering has the advantage of age quickly and have branches in the right places to start with. Dead wood can also give an appearance of age, also old stock or nursery stock can be cut back or if you are lucky you might find some old trees lost in the back of some nursery. Collecting from the wild can be rewarding because growing in harsh conditions can give appearance of age and may most likely have a good root system. If animals have been grazing on them they can be very small and look very old and all the pruning has been done. Collecting from old gardens can also result in some really good old stock. Don't stress your trees by pruning, wiring, root pruning and repotting all at the same time, give them a rest between operations and let them recover as they are living things after-all. New healthy growth is a good sign. Styling with wire is most difficult having such small branches but can be done with great care. I use the clip and grow method and hang little weights on them, done at an early age and near the trunk you can avoid that bow look. Frequent trimming produces a fine struc-ture and small foliage. Part defoliation can

relieve overcrowding but remember to seal all cuts so there is no drastic moisture loss. Watering is most likely the most difficult to regulate, miniature bonsai either dry out too quickly or be over watered because of the fear of them drying out. Both are fatal but mainly overwatering is most common. Smaller trees and containers can be placed in a large tray of sand, gravel or sphagnum moss which will collect water when you water them and will soak up water when they need it. This will create humidity as it dries out which will help cut down on the need to water as much in summer. Fertilizing is really no different to larger trees they just use less, better to under feed rather than to over feed - fertilize with mild solutions every couple of weeks. The illusion of a beautiful old aged tree is very much of a challenge when creating small bonsai. The main things to look for and work to-wards are: 1. A good taper from thick base to fine top

in as short a distance as possible 2. A good root system (Nebari) 3. Branches slightly angled down (gives a

good look of age) 4. Fine sub branches 5. Foliage, fruit and flowers of a small size 6. For single small trees you only need 1st,

2nd and back branches plus an apex. Displaying should be done at eye level so you can see into the tree, more so than with larger trees. Usually they should be dis-played in groups on multi-layered stands that hold many trees. They should be dis-played in odd numbers but if there is an even number, because of their small size an accent plant or a stone can make up for the odd number, but normally not a figurine. As a rule of thumb, due to the way they normally grow in nature, Conifers on top, deciduous lower down and grasses at the bottom but what looks good to you is good, you’re the one you have to please.

Daimyo Yorinaga Matsudaira with some of his shohin bonsai and pots. Image from May 1934 issue of Bonsai magazine, William N. Valavanis, repoduced at http://www.phoenixbonsai.com/Days/DaysSep.html (30 July 2010)

Just remember, patience is a virtue, will power is a necessity and the temptation to create new minis once you get hooked is enormous, believe me. Soon they will be in plague proportions.

Print information from the following sources:

Albek, Morton and Schoech, Wayne Majesty in Miniature, Shohin Bonsai, Unlocking the Secrets of Small Trees Stone Lantern Publishing, 2007

Koreshoff, Deborah Bonsai, Its Art, Science, History and Philosophy Boolerong Press, 1984

Picture are a range of ornamental and comple-mentary planting pots as found at www.bonsai-keramik.com/en/keramika_pro_bonsaje.html

Page 8 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

Seasonal Notes for August and September (Bonsai Society of Victoria)

August Prepare for potting by sorting out your pots, making sure they are clean and giving some thought to which ones you might use for each tree.

Deciduous trees may need more water as they come into new growth, so adjust the watering. As the weather gets warmer the soil tends to dry out quite quickly; water thoroughly but do not over water.

Repotting should be well in hand. Before repotting a tree, check the amount of root growth; if the roots fill the pot and are tightly packed, repotting is necessary. Provided there is fertiliser in the soil mix, trees which have been repotted will not need fertilising for 6 – 8 weeks, but trees which are not to be repotted will need to be fertilised. It is a good idea to keep a diary of the fertilising done and the type used; in this way you can see when fertilising is due to be done again, and perhaps vary the fertiliser.

Give your trees sufficient space on the growing benches. Each tree should have space all round it and branches of adjoining trees should not touch.

Young, quick-growing trees do better if they are repotted yearly, but older, slow-growing trees may not need any soil changed for 3 – 4 years. Fruit and flowering trees do better if repotted yearly.

Mugo Pines may be potted in early August, Spruce and Cedars are repotted during August and September. Japanese Black Pines, Radiata can be potted from August to early October. These pines are sometimes potted in autumn, though it is usually recommended that repotting at that time should not be too drastic.

Celtis (Australis and Sinensis) are pruned mainly by nipping and shortening new shoots. Twigginess is part of the beauty of this tree, so leave as many twigs as possible without overcrowding the growth.

Maples develop beautiful new growth and new shoots grow very quickly. If buds are not thinned out, many shoots would develop. Unwanted ones should be re-moved and, once the rest of the shoots have grown out to 3 or 4 pairs of leaves,

shorten back to 1 or 2 pairs depending on the length of the shoot needed and the direction in which the buds point. Shoots with very long internodes should always be removed, as they grow into long bare branches. In about a month or 6 week the leaf canopy of maples becomes very dense; thin out the large top leaves so that the smaller growth underneath can develop.

Do not prune spring flowering trees until the flowers appear (eg Pyracantha, Prunus, Hawthorn, Apple, Wisteria, Apricot).

Do not wire new shoots until the wood begins to harden.

Place your trees in the best open positions where they get sufficient sun and air. You will need to manage seasonal changes and the changing angle of the sun in your back yard.

Clean the surface of dishes where the trees are not being repotted. Take off weed, long moss and liverwort. The pots may need a thin surface layer of soil and some new moss.

September Many trees have now started to put out new growth. Rotate their pots often so that both sides of the trees will have an equal amount of sun to encourage all-over growth.

Pine trees which are full grown should receive less water than other bonsai; this will help to make the needles strong and short. Pine trees thrive out in the hottest and windiest positions on the benches. New candles on older pines should be pinched back during this month but leave the candles on young and les vigorous pines until next month. Retain only the candles which are necessary in developing the shape of the tree. If pines are young and spindly, it often strengthens them to allow them to grow and not pinch the candles until the end o the summer; pinching or cutting out all or most of the candles at this stage will cause a lot of new buds to develop; the following year go back to pinching the candles in spring.

Problem branches may be jinned, as growth is vigorous and trees tend to begin healing rapidly.

Vary the fertilisers you use, but always follow strength recommendations, and halve it. Maples continue to grow rapidly and put out long shoots. Nip back to 1 pair except where longer branches are needed or the bud points are in the wrong direction. Remove large leaves, leaving only the petiole (leaf stalk) to allow for photosynthesis until the new smaller leaves develop. Small leaves underneath will also develop, reducing weak leggy undergrowth on your trees.

Liquidambers put out a lot of leaves and shoots quickly, shorten the shoots and remove unnecessary ones. Cut off large leaves and try to keep the foliage thinned out so that you can see into the tree.

Zelkovas can be repotted in September, but may not come into leave until October.

Repot broadleaf evergreen trees. Deciduous trees that were not repotted just at bud swell should wait until the new growth has hardened off.

Following the flush of flowers on Azaleas, prune back to shape the framework. They can be pruned back to bare old wood, and should shoot out in about a month. Repot after flowering.

Crepe Myrtle needs to be pruned back very hard while dormant and the new growth nipped back hard until the end of November, when flower buds begin to form on the tips of the shoots. Fertilise regularly and heavily, they are gross feeders.

Prune the shoots on Olives and wire those needed before they get too stiff; repot if necessary.

Repot Beech and be ready to prune back to one or two leaves as soon as the shoots begin to unfold. This will keep the tree a compact shape.

Citrus should be repotted in September or October.

Oaks should be repotted before the leaves open, with as little root disturbance as possible; use some of their own soil in any new mix. Pin Oaks should have a little iron.

Page 9 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

Preparing for The SA Bonsai Society Annual Show

Extract from the South Australian Bonsai Society Inc By-Laws

Item 16 Selling at shows

(a) That at future shows of the Society, the Society, through its committee shall be the sole selling authority in respect of all bon-sai, nursery stock, pots and other associated materials and equipment to facilitate the sale to the public of such items of a quality and price befitting the objects of the Society and in keeping with its good name A.

(b) That all such items may be acquired by the committee from either 1. Members’ private stocks of bonsai, pots and stock and return; 2. Bonsai created at workshops organised by the committee for that purpose if felt necessary or desirable’ 3. Commercial sources on consignment and/or return basis. A.

(c) That in respect of items under (b) 1. Above the following conditions shall apply 1. The Society shall charge a commission at the rate of 20% of the gross selling price of items sold on behalf of members. 2. Subject to the number of items offered, a limit may be placed on the number of items accepted. 3. Any member selling shall also be an exhibitor at the show. 4. Any members selling shall offer them-selves for assistance with the running of the show provided that a selling member shall not assist on the sales area of their own goods. 5. All items for sale shall be the personal property of the selling member. 6. All potted bonsai presented for sale must have been potted or repotted for a minimum period of six weeks prior to the show, excluding demonstrations. 7. Members in breach of the terms and conditions of sale may be barred from fu-ture selling at shows at the discretion of the committee. A.

(d) That in respect of items acquired under (b) 2. and (b) 3. above, the committee shall keep stock sheets for all items sold. A.

(e) That payment in respect of all proceeds of all sales shall be made by cheque drawn as soon as practicable after completion of the show and the associated accounting.

It is now time to start preparing your bonsai for exhibition at our annual show. If you are planning on having plants or other bonsai related materials available for sale, then it is also time to start your preparations. All plants must be well established in their pots and be of a standard appropriate for sale at our show (refer to the Extracts from the SA Bonsai Society Inc By-Laws at left). The South Australian Bonsai Society shall be holding its Annual Exhibition of Bonsai on the weekend of Saturday 9 and Sunday 10 October, 2011. The show will be open to the public from 10 am to 4 pm on both days. As in past years, set up for our show will be throughout the day on Friday 8 October, starting at 9am. We will need ‘all hands on deck’ so as to place tables, screens, prepare plants, prepare the sales area in readiness for the (hopefully) busy weekend ahead. The Goodwood Community Centre will be open until 6.30pm on the Friday so as to allow members with commitments throughout the day to bring in plants for exhibition or sale. At conclusion of the show on Sunday afternoon, we have just one hour to ‘bunk-out’ (the Karate Club uses the hall from 5pm)!!! Consequently we really need the help of everyone so as to pack up and clean up at 4pm. Our Annual Show features a wide display of bonsai and companion plants, displays and demonstration from Ikebana International, bonsai demonstrations, advice from experienced bonsai enthusiasts plus a sales table of bonsai, potential bonsai material, bonsai books, resources and materials. The Annual Show provides us with a public showcase of our bonsai activities and is a wonderful opportunity to share your enthusiasm with your friends, family and colleagues. Please distribute the flyers that are available at our meeting and workshop evenings in the lead up to our show. Pin them up on your work noticeboard, on shopping centre notice-boards, ask if a local business would be willing to take a few fliers for their counter. Use our complimentary passes as a ‘thank you’ for their encouragement, patience (and endurance of our ‘little tree obsession’)!!!

Page 10 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

AABC Ltd Convention Perth 2011 Come Together

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The South Australian Bonsai Society Inc are seeking advertisers to support regular advertising in our newsletter. Rates (approx 100 mm x 65 mm) $40 per issue or $200 for 12 months (6 issues)

M E M B E R S Please let our advertisers know you are from The SA Bonsai Society Inc… their support ensures that we continue to enjoy a larger regular newsletter!

For further convention details please refer to: http://www.aabcltd.org/conference.htm http://members.iinet.net.au/~jold/bonsaisociety/convention.html

For all your Hardware, Handyman and Garden Needs

440 Prospect Road

Kilburn SA 5084

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Page 11 SA Bonsai … The Newsletter of The South Australian Bonsai Society Incorporated

AABC Ltd Convention Perth 2011 Come Together

Come Together

Our chosen theme is “Come Together”. This represents what is happening to bonsai throughout the world today. During the convention we are going to celebrate the coming together of the different styles and philosophies of bonsai cultivation from different cultures within our region. In this case, China, Japan and Australia. It is important that we appreciate and under-stand the reasoning behind the different ways bonsai are grown and maintained by our regional neighbours.

The different species we use for bonsai here in Australia, and especially Western Australia where our native species are being used together with the more traditional species. There will be an emphasis on our native bonsai in our large exhibition and the local demonstrations.

We look forward to having Mr Min Hsuan Lo from Taiwan as the International headline demonstrator. He will bring with him the philosophies and development of bonsai from the Chinese perspective.

Megumi Bennett from Sydney will be our National demonstrator. Megumi is Australia’s only Nippon Bonsai Association qualified instructor and will convey the Japanese way in creating bonsai.

As an additional bonus, Bonseki master Yasuko Aoki is visiting Australia for the last time and will demonstrate her skilful ancient art to us, and the public of W.A.

You will also have the opportunity of learning new skills from some of our finest local bonsai artists who specialise in working with Satsuki Azaleas, Pines, Japanese Maples, Australian native species, Shohin & Mame, Saikei and local Yamadori.

We have introduced new ideas to the program, which promise to provide all delegates with the opportunity to enhance their bonsai knowledge. They include, demonstrator critiques of Exhibition trees, a Master class for advanced delegates and Work-shop options which include Bonseki sessions. We hope knowledge gained from these extras will disseminate back to your clubs and be shared with the members.

The Master class is an activity designed specifically for existing club and society demonstrators with bookings limited to those people listed below. The activity is designed to expand the knowledge and skills of advanced members of the bonsai commu-nity to improve their teaching ability.

Pre and post tours have been sourced with the interest of bonsai and Suiseki in mind, to encourage a longer stay in our won-derful state.

The Welcome Reception, held on Friday evening, will include the Opening of the Exhibition, allowing you to preview the exhibition trees, Suiseki and bonseki. The Saturday night Dinner which includes an Auction and Entertainment will be en-joyed by everyone.

Fremantle's "4.5 star" Esplanade Hotel, the jewel of WA’s premier harbourside city, is the venue. It welcomes you with warmth, relaxation and friendliness; with twenty-first century facilities, fabulous restaurants, lobby bar, pools, spas, sauna plus out-standing meeting convention facilities.

We look forward to welcoming you as we all “Come Together” in May 2011 for the 24th AABC Ltd Convention in our Port City of Fremantle.

Coming Meetings, Workshops and Events Club Meetings and Workshops are held at the Goodwood Community Centre, 32a Rosa Street, Goodwood

August SA Bonsai Society Meeting: Tuesday 3 August at 8:00pm Judging: Ash; Under 30 cm; Free Choice SA Bonsai Society Workshop: Tuesday 17 August at 7:30pm

September SA Bonsai Society Meeting: Tuesday 7 September at 8.00pm Judging: Fruit, Flower or Driftwood; Group Planting; Free Choice SA Bonsai Society Workshop: Tuesday 21 September at 7:30pm

Events The Bonsai Society of Sydney Annual Bonsai Exhibition Checkers Resort and Conference Centre, Terrey Hills, 21 and 22 August 2010 The Bonsai Society of Australia Inc Annual Bonsai Exhibition Baulkham Hills Shire Council Chambers, Castle Hill, 10 - 12 September 2010 AABC Ltd AGM Baulkham Hills Shire Council Chambers, Castle Hill, 12 September 2010 SA Bonsai Society Inc Annual Show Goodwood Community Centre, 9 & 10 October, 2010 AABC Ltd 24th National Bonsai Convention 2011 - Come Together Hosted by the Bonsai Society of Western Australia Inc - Headline presenter Master Min Hsuan Lo, 20- 23 May 2011

V o l u m e 1 9 , I s s u e 4 A U G U S T 2 0 1 0

P o s t a l A d d r e s s :

P O B o x 1 5 9

G O O D W O O D S A 5 0 4 3

w w w . . b o n s a i s a . o r g . a u

Patron: Dorothy Koreshoff

President: Brian Osborn

Club Phone: 0403 883 269

Vice President : Howard Hamon

Secretary: Sharron McKane

Treasurer: Bob Smith

Editorial Team: Andrew Ward Marie Petersen

Library Team: Nan Hersey Trevor Morrison Philip Ekers

Committee Janice Kain Herb Kapperer Stephen McKane Pauline Phillips Joe Piro Janet Sabey Matthew Sharp

S A B o n s a i … T h e N e w s l e t t e r o f

T h e S o u t h A u s t r a l i a n B o n s a i S o c i e t y

I n c o r p o r a t e d

For all your bathroom needs see

KEWCO

at

270 Brighton Road.

Somerton Park.

Phone 82982555

Contact regarding newsletter to: andrew.james.ward@gmail.com

Collecting Bonsai from the Wild Andrew Ward

“Wild boars, wild dogs, rabid raccoons, and feral cats may also present a hazard.” http://www.bonsaimalta.org/resources/lectures/17_ch.pdf

When it comes to bonsai digs in Australia, it would seem that we are at a definite advantage, but … we must still take precautions and be respectful of some basic guidelines for collecting. Access that The SA Bonsai Society has for our members is either on private property or on public property, with permission or permits granted. It is good manners for members attending a ‘dig’ to arrive by the scheduled time. Members need to observe the guidelines regarding removal only of permitted plant materials, native plant material must not be removed, and it is essential that all holes are filled and compacted so that they do not present a potential hazard for others. Plants may not be removed from environmentally sensitive areas; for example from creek banks or from areas subject to erosion. Although we do not have the hazards faced by collectors of yamadori in other countries, we still need to be aware of environmental hazards, including slippery areas and snakes. Through digging with others, digging discretely and through observing permit requirements we can protect the future of our bonsai digs.