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•Voguepattern2850&patternrequirements
•Thisblousehasbeenmadewithsilkchiffon,withanextrahalfametrepurchasedforliningandembellishing.
•80Machineneedle•Darningfoot•Hoop
•MadeiraRayoncol.1071,1000metrespool
•MadeiraGlamourcol.3022,200metrespool.
•MadeiraGlamourMachineneedle•AvalonPlus–1metre•Smallsharpscissors
MATERIALS LIST
Ruth Osborn’s SILKCHIFFONBLOUSE
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STEP 1• Thetopofthisblousehasbeenlined
withsilkchiffon,andsothemethodofassemblingthegarmenthasbeenadapted.
• Fromthechiffon,cuttwobacksections,andfourfrontsections,theties,andthebiasstrips.
• Whencuttingoutthecollarsections,cutaroundtheneckline,butallowanextra3cmaroundtheloweredgeofthecollar.
• Forthepeplam,cutalongthewaistlineandthesideseams,thenallowanextra3cms,downthefronts,thefrontedges,andthefrontandbackloweredges.
STEP 2• Sewthedartsofthefrontsections,and
thentheshoulderandsideseams,pressandplacetooneside.
• Sewthetiesandturn,jointheneckbiasandthetwoarmholefacingbiasstrips.
• WithaFrenchseam,jointhecollarsections,andthesideseamsofthepeplam.
• Pressallseamsanddarts.Sewastaystitchlinearoundtheneckedgeofthecollarandthewaistlineofthepeplam.
STEP 3 • Cuta15cmstripofAvalonPlus,andlay
underthefrontedgeofthecollar.Pininplace.Loadintothehoop.Insertthe80machineneedle,windafewbobbinswiththeMadeirarayon1071,insertabobbinandthreadthemachinewith1071.Itisimportanttouseanewneedle,thesilkiscobwebfine,andthreadpullscanresultwithafaultyneedle.
• Startingatthefrontedgeofthecollar,loadthehoopwithAvalon,withfrontedgeofthecollarrestinggentlyonthesurfaceoftheAvalon.
• Lowerthefeeddogsandreducethetoptensiontoalmostzero.Reducethebobbintension.Sewasamplebeforeattemptingtheblouse,tocheckthetensions,astheyhavebeenreduced,toallowthethreadstojustsitonthesurfaceofthesilk,withoutcausinganypuckering.Adjustasnecessary.
Sample1• Whenyouhavethecorrecttension,sewa
wavylineapprox3cminfromtheedge,thedepthwillvarydependingonthedepthoftheline.Sewbackalongthisline.
Sample2• Embroiderthetopsectionofyourdesign,
bysewinganotherlinefrom3to5cminfromthefirstline.Varythedepth,andoccasionallyrunuptoapeak,{seesample}.Fillinbetweenthisarea,withsmallcompactcornellistitching.
• CutanotherpieceofAvalon,andslightlyoverlapthelastsectionofAvalon.Repeatthepreviousstepsforembellishing.Continuetoworkaroundtheedgeofthecollarinthismanner;untilcompleted,donotwashoutthestabilizeratthisstage.
Sample3• Removethepiecefromthemachine,and
withsmallsharpscissors,trimthebottomedgeofthesilkawayfromthebaselineofstitching
Sample4• Placeonthemachineagain,andsew
anotherwavylineofstitchingontotheAvalonapprox.3cmbelowthecutawaylineofthesilk.Doublebackalongthisline,andthenfillintheareabetweenthislineofstitchingandthesilk,toformalaceedging.Besuretoanchorthelaceedgingfirmlytothesilk.Rememberwhenmachiningthislaceedging,thatthesewinglinesMUSToverlaptoconnecttoeachother.Iftheydon’t,whenthestabilizeriswashedaway,thelacecandeveloplargeholeswhereitisnolongersupported.
STEP 4• Workthepeplaminthesamemanner
astheyoke,startingononesideofthewaistlineatthecenterfront,andworkallthewayarounduntilyoucompletetheotherfrontsection.
STEP 5 Sample4• TopthreadthemachinewithMadeira
Glamour3022.InserttheGlamourneedle.Lightlycornellioverthepreviousmachineembroidery,bothonthesilkandthestabilizerlace.Doafewlightswirlshereandthere,andalsorunupanypeaksyoumayhavemade,onthesilk.
• Whenyouhavefinishedboththecollarandthepeplam,placethemtosoakincoldwater.Iliketousealargetub,withplentyofwater,andleavetosoakovernight.Rinsewellinthemorning,andsoakagainforanotherhourorso.Rinse,andremovetheexcesswaterbylightlywringinginatowel.Layflat,andpullintoshapetodry.
• Ifyourhandsfeelatallstickyafterthisstep,thentheitemsneedtobesoakedforalongerperiodtoremovethelastofthestabilizer.
• Presswhendry.
STEP 6 ASSEMBLING• Positionthepeplamalongtheloweredge
ofoneoftheblousesections,rightsidesfacing.Youmayneedtoeaseitin,tackinplace.Placetherightsideoftheremainingblousesectionontopoftheothersideofthepeplam{wrongside},easetofit,andtackinplace.Threadthemachineandchangetheneedleforstraightsewing,sewaroundthetackedseam.Trimtheseam,andpresstheblousetopupwards.
• Tacktheblousesectionstogetheraroundthearmholes.Foldthebiassectionsinhalflengthwise.Tacktotherightsideofthearmhole,straightstitch,trimandfoldthebiasovertherawedgestotheinside.Handsewinplacetofinish.
• Tackthetwonecklinestogether.Pinthetiestotheblouseatthewaistline,tackinplace.
• Laythefrontpatternpieceonfrontnecklinetocheckifthisareahasstretchedduringsewing.Ifithas,runtwogatheringlinesaroundthenecklineandeasebacktosize.
• Followtheremainingblouseinstructionstofinishtheblouse.
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