ART& SOLEIn an FN exclusive, designer Valentina Carrano and artist Donald Robertson show off (and sound off ) ontheir new creation:the hand-paintedFleur bootie.

THE GLOBAL ISSUE KING OF KOOLThe United Nude founder on cheesy music, L.A. living and Russell Brand

VEGAS VIEWSWhy sourcing, spending and new product at FN Platform led to cheers and fears

RUPERT’S REALITYAt 15, the designer hits big in Asia and with a royal regular

F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / A U G U ST 2 9, 2 0 1 6 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S

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C O N T E N T S

7RUPERT SANDERSON, photographed outside his Mayfair boutique

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INSIDER

7 A Quiet Force Fifteen years after

launching his brand, Rupert Sanderson talks

about sticking to his original vision.

10 FN Spy Meet Puma’s newest social star, and

hear from a Las Vegas entertainment legend.

12 The Road Ahead Power players on big

challenges and notable opportunities.

14 Zika Fears In an already uncertain climate,

the virus could dampen tourism and retail.

15 FN Faces Some of the top names in the biz

hit the Wynn for FN’s cocktail party.

FEATURES

16 Art of the Interview A painterly mood

prevails for footwear designers this season.

THE LIST

25 Shoe of the Week Nanette Lepore

bridges multiple trends with a rainbow-colored

spring sandal.

26 Fiesta Flare What chic vacationers were

wearing this month in San Sebastian.

28 Good Taste Rem D. Koolhaas gets candid

about L.A. moves and being addicted to Drake.

29 A Direct Approach Inside Tamara

Mellon’s plan to reboot her business.

30 Inspiration Point Designer Armando

Cabral spanned the globe for spring cues.

31 The Dandy Way Barbanera founders

Sergio and Sebastiano Guardì aim to right

men’s fashion wrongs.

32 Yin Meets Yang Opposites attract as

comfort brands tout black-and-white styles.

33 Play Action How Caleres is capitalizing on

athleisure with the Bzees brand.

FN PICK

34 Bloom of Youth Kate Middleton was back

on the event circuit last week in L.K. Bennett.

STAFF ANNOUNCEMENT

Eugenia Richman has joined FN as Digital

Director. Richman, who previously worked at

Vivala.com, Vogue.com and InStyle, is charged

with bolstering all online editorial initiatives,

including daily content strategies and social

media for Footwearnews.com.

ON THE COVER

Photographed by CLAIRE BENOIST

4

ALL THE DETAILS ON THE YEEZY BOOST 350 ‘INFANT’ STYLEIt’s no surprise that the latest release from Kanye West and Adidas Originals took the top spot. The Yeezy Boost 350s in infant and toddler sizing made their debut on Aug. 27, allowing adult fans of the line to match with their little ones.

IVANKA TRUMP, MARC FISHER MAKE COUNTERCLAIM AGAINST AQUAZZURAFollowing a lawsuit filed by Aquazzura in June, Ivanka Trump and

footwear partner Marc Fisher responded in court, denying they

copied the luxury label.

ADIDAS ORIGINALS X PHARRELL WILLIAMS HU NMD GET A GLOBAL RELEASEAfter a launch at select retailers and BBC Ice Cream stores in July, the Adidas

Originals x Pharrell Williams Hu NMD sneakers — which feature a bright

yellow upper emblazoned with the words “Human Race” — dropped at Adidas

Originals stores worldwide. And with that, fans of the popular NMD style

promptly scrambled for a pair.

MARGOT ROBBIE’S CHIC TRAVEL SHOES The actress touched down in Tokyo to promote her film

“Suicide Squad,” and instead of, say, drab sneakers, she

wore punchy pink platform mules by Mansur Gavriel.

WHY SHOE COMPANIES ARE IN A HEADQUARTERS-BUILDING FRENZYBig-name labels such as Under Armour, New Balance,

Converse, Wolverine and Deckers Brands are changing

the office landscape with their flashy new corporate

headquarters. Fitness centers, common areas and

outdoor spaces are just some of the cool new features.

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The most-read stories on Footwearnews.com last week.

TRAFFIC REPORT.com

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Michael Atmore Editorial Director

Neil Weilheimer Managing EditorKatie Abel Global News DirectorElizabeth Slott Design Director

Mosha Lundström Halbert Fashion DirectorJennie Bell Features Editor

Eugenia Richman Digital DirectorBarbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s & Comfort

Sumana Ghosh-Witherspoon Senior DesignerKristen Henning Women’s Editor

Chris M. Junior Copy EditorPeter Verry Athletic & Outdoor Editor

Sheena Butler-Young Senior Associate Editor, BusinessCharlie Carballo West Coast Digital Editor

Margaret Sutherlin Associate Editor Christian Allaire Associate Fashion Editor, High-End Men’s

Rachael Allen Associate Web ProducerNikara Johns Associate Editor

Erin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’s

CORRESPONDENTSSamantha Conti, Natalie Theodosi London

Miles Socha Paris Luisa Zargani Milan Amanda Kaiser Hong Kong

PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO

Ash Barhamand Photo DirectorOona Wally Bookings & Production Editor

Emily Taylor Photo Studio Coordinator George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone Photographers

Leah Jubara Video Producer & Editor

ADVERTISINGSandi Mines Vice President & Publisher

Lauren Schor Associate PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast DirectorMichele Loffman Account Director

Gina Stillman Senior Account ManagerLauren Hill Digital Account Manager

Giulia Squeri European Account Director Gomatie Sanichar Office Manager

Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales CoordinatorElizabeth Carcich Sales Coordinator

DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES

Stephanie Siegel Director of Integrated MarketingCass Spencer Creative Director, Marketing

Suzette Minetti Digital Sales Planner

AUDIENCE MARKETINGEllen Dealy Vice President & Senior Executive Director

Peggy Pyle Consumer Marketing DirectorJanet Menaker Senior Director,

Digital Marketing & Strategic DevelopmentRandi Segal Senior Director, Institutional Sales

Suzanne Berardi Senior Online Manager Tamra Febesh Senior Marketing Manager

Lauren Busch Associate Marketing Manager

PRODUCTIONKevin Hurley Production DirectorJohn Cross Production Manager

PREPRESS PRODUCTION

Alex Sharfman Digital Imaging David Lee Chin Prepress Assembly

SUMMITS & EVENTS

Amber Mundinger Vice President, New Ventures & GMMary Ann Bacher Executive Editorial DirectorAmelia Ewert Director, Experiential Marketing

Kim Mancuso Director, Attendee SalesAlexis Coyle Director, Sponsorship

FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC

Michael Atmore Editorial Director of FN & Director of Brand Development

Ron Wilson Director, European Operations

FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION

I N S I D E R

As Rupert Sanderson celebrates 15 years, the designer talks about staying true to his original vision while adapting to major industry change. By Natalie Theodosi

The Quiet Force

f you burn brightly, you can burn yourself out quite quickly,” said Rupert Sanderson. “If you take it slowly, you never age.”

It is a philosophy that the British designer has always embraced. Since 2001, when he

launched his namesake collection, Sanderson has built his business quietly and carefully by focusing on classic, elegant designs. That’s not always easy in an industry defined by trends of the moment and a fashion cycle that continues to speed up.

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“It’s a bit confusing when in the course of an hour you can have a meeting about a collection that has just been delivered to stores, followed by a conversation about spring-summer that’s about to emerge,” quipped the designer. “Then, all of a sudden, I have to start thinking about pre-fall. But as long as I’m told what to do, it’s fine. We just need a structure and, you know, I’ll survive.”

The London-based Sanderson is also confronting a new challenge: the aftershocks of Brexit. But the design-er believes he is well positioned to weather any major impact. “We are a European business, buying and selling in euros. We also sell the wholesale domestically in euros,” explained Sanderson, who produces his collection in Italy. He noted that while prices might be increased in the long term, there has been a short-term benefit given the decline of the pound in the period following the vote in late June. “We’ve had a cracking couple of weeks because tourists in the city just got richer,” he said.

The designer, 50, sees even more opportunity in the Asian market, where the business has shownsignificant growth in the past five years even as other companieshave stumbled.

The brand operates retail stores in Hong Kong’s major luxury shopping malls, including Elements, Landmark and Harbour City, as well as in Shang-hai’s IFC mall in mainland China. Sanderson said his partnership with Hong Kong-based entrepreneur Bertrand Mak has allowed him to better understand Asian consum-ers, who are increasingly drawn to smaller high-end brands that focus on craftsmanship.

“We’re not necessarily design-ing new shoes every season,” Sanderson said. “We’re doing what old Italian luxury brands used to do: focusing on exquisite quality, fit, styling, consistency and branding. Those are the things the Asian market gets excited about. So we’ve been building quite a tra-ditional, old fashioned business in a very exciting new market.”

Sanderson said he has always been fascinated by the typical Asian consumer, who “almost exponentially becomes twice more sophisticated every year.” Social platforms in China such as Weebo have also helped Sand-erson expand his reach.

“Our Asian customers sought us out; they know about the brand and what they are looking for. There’s a core of consumers who buy almost like the French do, each purchase being an investment,” added the de-signer, who plans to continue expand-ing his business and opening more stores in the region. “That’s the customer I relate to.”

Sanderson also intends to use his Asian stores to test new categories, including handbags, but he wants to be careful about doing too much. “If you do multicatego-ries,” he said, “you have to do them through your own retail to control the merchandising.”

Unlike the traction the company quickly gained in the Far East, Sanderson has had more difficulty entering the American market, explaining that the small scale of his company and the lack of a partner did not allow him to establish a major U.S. presence.

While having a large stateside business isn’t a prior-ity, Sanderson clearly understands the power of cultivat-ing celebrity relationships. He makes frequent trips to Los Angeles to court stylists and celeb fans, amongthem Solange Knowles, Olivia Palermo and Blake Lively.

At home, the firm expects to keep the focus on its wholesale business. Lisa Aiken, retail fashion director

at London-based Net-a-porter (oneof Sanderson’s main retailers),said the designer’s dedication toclassicism appeals to the e-tailer’s global audience.

“Our customers love Rupert Sanderson’s less-is-more philosophy. He designs with perfect precision, focusing on the line, material, shape, silhouette and comfort,” explained Aiken. “The point-toe flat has become one of his signatures, and other best-sellers include the patent ‘Bedfa’ and fringed-leather styles, which can be worn for the day or evening.”

For fall ’16, Aiken pointed to the designer’s block-heel sandals in satin and velvet and crystal-embellished pumps and flats as the key pieces in Net-a-porter’s footwear edit.

Sanderson is particularly ex-cited about one of his pre-fall designs, a pair of his flat pointed-toe pumps updated

with a print of a couple kissing created by Italian graffiti artist Anna Laurini. “I like the idea of taking a shoe that’s elegant and delicate and [adding] something that has been sprayed on the front of a building,” said Sander-son, who often takes inspiration from the street. “The expres-

sion of it is very high-end, but it’s a rather inclusive image that has

been sprayed all over London.”As he prepares to unveil his

spring ’17 collection, Sanderson is also benefiting from the backing of a new high-profile fan. The Duchess of Cambridge has worn the designer’s Malory and Calice pumps several times during the past few months. “It is a nice and privileged thing to quietly be able to make a pair of shoes for the future Queen of

England,” he said.

THE ITALIAN WAYWhy Rupert Sanderson continues to have such a deep affi nity for Italy.

Rupert Sanderson’s early experiences in Italy set the stage for his entire career.“I went to college in the U.K., but I spent 18 months of living and working in Italy for businesses that were at least two generations old,” he explained, referring to his stints at Bruno Magli and Sergio Rossi.

“That time informed everything; that’s why my setup and structure ofbusiness is a bit like an Italian family-run busi-ness. I got to understand the ‘famiglia’ culture and brought it back to England to work within that.”

Sanderson kept his ties to Italy, buying a control-ling interest in the factory — located in the outskirts of Bologna — that’s been integral to the label since it launched in 2001.

“Working in the factory has been a huge part of my life,” he said. “It grew from a small room with a fax machine in the corner that made 45 pairs of shoes a day to something that looks like a big factory, full of people, making 40,000 pairs of shoes a year.”

The designer added that having a vertical business model has allowed him to work closely with the factory’s craftsmen, with some of them having seen every shoe Sanderson has created. — Natalie Theodosi

Sanderson took part in his first triathlon, the Wensleydale Half Cheese, on Aug. 21 in the U.K.8

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“Our Asian consumers sought us out. They know

about the brand and what they are

looking for.”Rupert Sanderson

Resort ’17looks

10 I N S I D E R YesJulz said the Puma creepers by Rihanna are one of her favorite styles.

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Puma’s latest social influencer is front and center in the company’s new campaign. YesJulz stars with model Kylie Jenner and rapper Young Thug in the Puma Suede fall ads, which tout the tagline “Forever fresh.” With more than 400,000 followers on Instagram and 140,000 on Twitter, YesJulz has used her Snapchat and social media to give followers a glimpse into her everyday life — from her start as a Miami party host to her own radio station and marketing agency. Stay tuned as YesJulz continues to work with Puma on an exclusive apparel line and an upcoming shoe. Here, she reveals her thoughts on fashion and style.

How do you style your Puma Suede sneakers? “Honestly, you could wear them with anything. I love wearing the Suede with a dress. They are versatile. I love seeing the feminine colors they are coming out with now. I love that they are catering to women and making this a space just for us. We don’t always want to get the same sneakers the boys have. It’s cool to have something we can dress up a bit.”

Why is fashion important to you?“It’s a way to express yourself. It’s a way to make a statement without saying anything. I love seeing people who think outside the box and girls who dress comfortably. That’s a big passion of mine because I used to work as a hostess and I had to dress up and wear heels, and I hated it. I thought to myself, ‘I can’t wait until I can wear my sneakers everywhere.’ The day that I could, I was so happy, and I was like, ‘This is life, and this is how it should be.’ I just wanted to make a firm statement with that.”

Puma adds Snapchat star Julz Goddard, aka YesJulz, to the brand’s Suede campaign.

By Kristen Henning

With contributions from Nikara Johns

New PairingsDenim is a big hit for Bionda Castana. “I love how combin-ing it with fringe detailing has caused quite a stir this season with our buyers and clients,” said designer Natalia Barbieri of the spring ’17 trend. “The challenge of using denim to create an elegant profile has excited me the most.” For the summer, Barbieri is in her hometown of London, where her nieces are visiting from Dubai. “I am now very excited to see ‘The BFG,’ as they have been speaking about its release for what seems like a lifetime,” she said. “Their excitement is infectious.”

Natalia Barbieri

Top Picks Rachel Zoe already has her wish list picked out for spring ’17. The EIC of The Zoe Report has a number of footwear brands she calls her current faves: Brother Vellies,M. Gemi, Aquazzura, Marion Parke and Aska. She has her go-to choices and classic picks, too, including Chanel, Brian Atwood and Gianvito Rossi. As for the trends that have already caught her eye, “I love a wood-stacked heel for spring, and I’m excited about the continued rise of mules and slip-on styles,”

she said. “They are effortlessly elegant.”

Snap to It Now and ThenWayne Newton has made his way back to the Las Vegas stage. In “Wayne Newton: Up Close and Personal” at Bally’s, he focuses on the past, singing hits such as “Danke Schoen” and allowing guests to ask questions. “I decided with all that’s going on in this city that I would make a show that was a little retro to explain what the town was all about [before] and how it’s grown,” he told Spy at FN Platform, during an appearance at friend Donald Pliner’s booth showcasing his new brands. Onstage, Newton rocks custom boots that are made in San Antonio and feature a Cuban heel.

Pliner and Newton

Rachel Zoe

Female Ferocity“Based on female empower-ment, I’ve noticed that women are looking for models that prioritize comfort and practicality without losing femininity, such as loafers or block heels,” said Cristiano Rodriquez, designer for Brazilian brand Zeferino, of the spring ’17 season. As for the Olympic sport he enjoyed the most in Rio, it was gymnastics. “I admire the gymnasts who embellish movements, conveying feeling through the body,” he said.

Spring ’17 sandal

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Obstacle: “Overall, the challenge

that we have as an athletic footwear

brand is that it is such an emerging,

hot category. So many competitors

are coming into the space that aren’t

traditionally athletic. It’s just becoming

that much harder to get those open-

to-buy dollars.”

Opportunity: “At Supra, we have such

a dynamic range of products [in kids’

and women’s] that are pulling in new

customers that haven’t experienced

the brand before.”

Obstacle: “How to get over the

hump of sameness and the inability

to take a chance on something differ-

ent. When the market is hard, our

industry seems to play it safe and

offers the same looks at all different

price levels.”

Opportunity: “What we need to do

is ask, ‘What do we as consumers

want?’ We want to be excited. We

want to be blown away. We want to

find shoes that we didn’t imagine

wanting until we see them in our

favorite stores.”

Obstacle: “All of the upheaval and

fashion changes for a brand driven by

dress. Athletic and casual is in — how

do we adopt and compete?”

Opportunity: “[Tapping into athletic]

also is a great opportunity. Consumers

are ready for it, and we need to catch

up. Everybody says that athletic is here

to stay.”

Obstacle: “I strongly believe that

brick-and-mortar shops need to

reinvent themselves and find a way to

attract consumers to their stores.”

Opportunity: “With the right attitude

and taking some chances, the return

should be rewarding. I am positive

about the future. The bottom was hit;

we can only go up from here.”

Obstacle: “The pending election will

keep people on edge and out of the

retail stores for the short term. Fol-

lowing the election, depending on the

outcome, there could be an upsurge in

shopping for the holidays.”

Opportunity: “Direct-to-consumer

remains the biggest opportunity for

retail sales. The internet has revolu-

tionized the way consumers shop, and

it isn’t going away anytime soon.”

Obstacle: “Right now, I would say

consumer sentiment and brick-and-

mortar traffic. We are working very

hard on driving consumers in the door,

as well as bringing them back.”

Opportunity: “There is a great oppor-

tunity with casual athletics right now.

We continue to benefit from our focus

on this product trend.”

Robert “Cape” Capener

Brand President,

Supra and KR3W,

K-Swiss Global

Brands

Sari Ratsula President, Seychelles

Imports, LLC

Obstacle: “Without my name, I’m starting on my own all over again. I’ve realized what my DNA and customer base is. I don’t want to invent a new wheel — I just want to introduce comfort in a new way. It’s opened up doors to new customers. I’m working with retailers I’ve never worked with before.”

Donald J. Pliner

Alan Johnson President, Nina

Footwear Corp.

Joe Ouaknine, Founder, Titan

Industries

Michael Katz

Owner, Matisse

Footwear

Jay Schmidt

Brand Portfolio

President, Caleres

Obstacle: “Consumer spending and

consumer confidence. Right now, ev-

erybody is in a bit of a holding pattern

with the election going on. Everybody

is in a state of uncertainty. Everyone

is in this wait-and-see mode, but I will

say good product is still selling.”

Opportunity: “Engaging customers

online, social media and telling your

stories digitally.”

David Kahan,

CEO, Birkenstock

USA

THE ROAD AHEADWill 2016 end on a better note than it began? Top execs talk about how to drive biz and what might stand in their way. By FN Staff

lans for the new FN Platform in New York are taking shape — and Leslie Gallin, president of footwear for UBM Fashion Group, wants to spread the word about the show’s mission.

Gallin emphasized the New York edition of the event “is not going to be a replacement” for the Las Vegas version. Similarly, it’s not designed to compete with FFANY in “any way,

shape or form.”The debut event will take place in February and

run biannually at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. The show will be positioned alongside ad-ditional events under the UBM umbrella, includ-ing Stitch, Moda, Edit and Accessories the Show, offering a head-to-toe buying experience.

Gallin said the company made the decision to launch the New York FN Platform show — which will feature women’s and juniors’ brands — for one key reason.

Sole Commerce, UBM’s New York-based footwear event that runs alongside Coterie, has continued to be selective about the vendors it accepts into the show. “Every season, brands who wanted to come would call us, and we had to say, ‘You don’t meet the criteria,’ ” Gallin explained.

As Sole Commerce looks to become more el-

evated and positioned “in the heart” of the Coterie show, Gallin and her team see an opening to add FN Platform into the mix to accommodate more footwear players.

The show is geared toward vendors who want to finalize their orders for the season after Las Vegas, or get in front of new boutique retailers and stores in the New York area.

“This is not a footwear-centric market, but it’s a wonderful opportunity for people to pick up business,” Gallin said. “That’s all we’re looking at — how do we help the industry in both good times and hard times?”

The executive also reflected on this month’s Vegas edition of FN Platform, noting that attend-ees and exhibitors were upbeat, with celebrity appearances by Katy Perry and Wayne Newton contributing to an energetic atmosphere.

Show NotesAn inside look at why FN Platform is making

a move into the New York arena.

By FN Staff

P

Obstacle: “When there was a turndown in the economy a year ago, a lot of [retailers] bought less inventory. Many people were then looking for at-once inventory. Retail is getting better, but I don’t know if we can maximize volume if everyone planned down. The good thing is people are out looking more than last year.”Opportunity: “People that can buy closer to the season as opposed to six months ago will be able to capitalize on what’s working.”

Bruce Moore

President,

Charles David

t’s going to be a casual and comfort-able spring ’17 season with major color stories, according

to retailers shopping the Atlanta Shoe Market.

The show, held from Aug. 20-22 at the Cobb Galleria Centre in Atlanta, had stores such as Dale’s Shoes in Daytona Beach, Fla., on the hunt for footwear in a softer color range. “We came for brighter, [yet] lighter colors,” said owner Russell Dotson.

“We’re seeing a lot of desert col-ors,” said Becca Bramhall, co-owner of Ft. Col-lins, Colo.-based Clothes Pony. “These [shades] go great in Colorado — especially sage brush, a color found in na-ture. It’s a great coincidence when trends work in our region.”

Like Bramhall, Michael Kerstein, co-owner of Simons Shoes in Brookline, Mass., is bank-ing on neutrals as a fresh color op-tion. “There are good browns and beiges,” he said. “But they have to have depth to the leathers.”

Retailers were also on the same page when it came to silhouette. “We’re looking for more espa-drilles,” said Manassas, Va.-based Comfort One president Maurice Breton, who plans to market them aggressively. “They’re a look currently not in our customers’ closets.”

According to Kim Holmes, owner of Generations Footwear in Arab, Ala., the store has always done a strong business in wedges, and she sees the trend continuing

for spring ’17, particularly higher versions. On her shopping list were brands such as Chocolat Blu, Volatile and OTB.

Wedges are also a key cat-egory going forward for Shoefly in Fairhope, Ala. “They are not going away,” said owner Marjorie Mil-lette. She had other styles on her mind, too. “We’re looking for chunky stacked heels,” added Millette, citing looks that included clogs.

Mark Jubelirer, owner of Reyers Shoe Store in Sharon, Pa., was also banking on chunkier heels. “We’re

glad to see that change,” he said. “It’s a new direction

in younger footwear and should be easier

to sell.” In addition to the bottoms story, Jubelirer said spring booties are also a growing

classification for the younger

consumer.While Clothes Pony’s

sales were evenly divided for spring ’16 between flats andwedges, Bramhall plans to move her customers forward with athletic-inspired looks on dressier uppers. “People in Colorado do a lot of walking and hiking,” she said.

Beth Weingarten, co-owner of The Shoe Spa in Palm Beach Gardens, Fla., is also bullish on the athleisure movement. “It’s a newer category for us,” she said. “We’ve always had some fashion sneakers, but now the potential is huge.”

According to Laura Conwell-O’Brien, executive director of the Atlanta Shoe Market, attendance was on par compared to last year’s event, with retailers attending from about 40 states.

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14 I N S I D E R Georgia has reported at least 60 travel-related Zika cases.

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After a tough spring ’16, buyers are banking on strong color stories to drive the year ahead. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Atlanta Recap: What Stood Out?

In what’s already been a challenging season, the news of the Zika virus landing in Miami — one of the hot-test cities for tourism and retail in the U.S. — is causing anxiety among some retailers.

After an initial outbreak in trendy arts district Wynwood in early August, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention announced that pregnant women should not travel to Miami-Dade County after more local transmis-sions were discovered.

Experts said while the im-mediate impact might not be noticeable— particularly since high season doesn’t kick up until November — the real worry with Zika is long term.

Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of retail at The NPD Group, said that if the virus extends into the Carolinas, Georgia and Louisi-ana, retailers would definitely feel a shift as tourists change plans. “We are thinking about how consumers are thinking and feeling about Zika, and we keep coming back to the fact Congress didn’t vote for spending to solve the problem, so I think people are waiting to see,” Cohen said.

Jacob Antebi, VP of sales for Marc Joseph New York, has seen the impact of Zika on tourism at its Puerto Rico store. Antebi said traffic dropped off significantly after the virus was found on the island.

In response, the brand is giving more attention to local shoppers there ahead of its third store open-ing — in Boca Raton, Fla.

Will Zika Take A Bite Out of Miami Retail? Some storeowners are already cautious about the months ahead.

On the show floor

Miami Beach could see a tourism hit

from Zika

“We have a great staff who really cultivated a good relationship with the locals, so we don’t have to rely on tourists only,” Antebi said. “You have to take care of the local customer.”

Cohen suggested that since Miami is a key test market for shoppers, the shock waves of a dampened tourism season could give false reads on in-demand styles and product that sells.

Alechemist co-owner Roma Cohen said that while Zika itself is a concern — the virus is definitely the focus of much conversation around town — it hasn’t affected his busi-ness yet. “It’s present,” said Cohen. “But this is a slower moment for retail in the second half of August and September. Our sales have been steady, even though it’s out there in the press. It was probably a bit more of a scare for Wynwood.”

Similarly, local independent run-ning chain Fit 2 Run, which operates 15 stores in Florida, hadn’t seen much of an impact in attendance for the weekend fun runs it hosts and with people stopping in.

One big shift is happening, though: Marketing manager Jayme Epstein said the chain’s buyers were looking to start stocking bug-repellant options.“We’ve heard that tourism has dropped just a bit from the Chamber [of Commerce], but people in Miami are still coming out and going along,” she said.

At Wynwood-based Sneak Attack, which opened earlier this year, manager Albert Elkerson said traffic has been steady among local residents and tourists alike. He added that the store has been spraying repellent and making sure that standing water doesn’t accumulate near the store, as directed by the health department. — By Margaret Sutherlin

Showstoppers August 2016

Faces

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Matt Bernson

Gabriel MoralesSari Ratsula

Carrie RubinBrett Rutland

Kenneth ColeDebbie Ferrée

Bob GoldmanAndrew KiernanRem Koolhaas

Scott Sessa

Chloe GosselinSheena ParksArchie Hewlett

Jesse EdelmanKaelyn Silverstein Sam Edelman

Jim Gabriel

Joel Oblonsky

Ron Fromm

Buddy Teaster

Steve HillTarek HassanSonny Shar

Greg TunneyMichael Atmore

Michael Greenberg Chase Greenberg

Fred Mossler

The shoe industry’s top players hit the Las Vegas Strip this month for FN Platform. The show opened with a performance by Wilson Phillips and ended on a high note with FN’s cocktail party at the Wynn hotel’s La Cave.

Isack FadlonLeslie GallinRick Cytrynbaum

Beth Goldstein, Tamara Szames,Silvia Xoyon, Sarah Bloch, Michele Arnold, Diane Nicholson, Lori Monaco

Katy Perry

Chris Francis

Lisa PlinerDonald Pliner

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Photographed by Claire Benoist

Fashion Director: Mosha Lundström Halbert Associate Fashion Editor: Christian Allaire

Prop Stylist: Alma Melendez

Donald Robertson and Valentina Carrano talk to each other about their mutual love of shoes. By Mosha Lundström Halbert

If you are one of artist Donald Robertson’s 179,000 Instagram followers, you’ve likely noticed the man has a thing for shoes — especially heels by breakout designer Valentina Carrano. He’s taken to painting or applying his signature colorful grafter’s tape to her Italian-crafted stilettos. FN commissioned the duo to collaborate on a new piece, revealed here. The Fleur bootie is splashed with an Italian retro bombshell that celebrates their love of curves. It will be auctioned off with proceeds going to the BunnyJack Gives Foundation. Here, the two artists interview each other.

Art of the Interview

Donald Robertson Who is your muse? “Anyone off-center. As a young creative director [for Estee Lauder Group], the first person I ever signed to a big cosmetic campaign was RuPaul. Last week, I just signed Amber Rose for a similar deal. You get the picture. Awesome outsiders.” Earliest influence? “Very chic grandparents. I’m from Canada. Back when I was young, ‘chic’ was not something you found in our neighborhood hockey rinks.” What drew you to using my shoes as a canvas? “I discovered your shoes when I was art bombing Bergdorf Goodman. They look like female body parts. Very feminine and very fashion.”

What do your children think about your work? “My 11-year-old son says it’s humiliating that all the girls in his class wear my T-shirts. Ha.” What motivates you? “Five kids and homeless-ness.” Fashion pet peeve? “I love it all: the good, the bad and the fugly.” What is your greatest strength and weakness? “I am too dumb for New York and too ugly for L.A. It’s a problem.” When and where are you most inspired?

“At 4 a.m. in my studio.”

Valentina CarranoWho is your muse?“Women that can pull off a complicated life with

elegance and grace.” Early influences? “Milano. I grew up in the business. Fashion was everywhere and very much part of my family’s life.” What have I taught you about art? “You can make art out of nothing. I love when you tag your kids on Instagram with #buythemnothing, and they’re playing with boxes and gaffer tape.”

What do your children think about your work?“Stella and Paloma can walk around in my heels since they were 3.”

Best lesson?“You must not only be a creative in designing prod-uct, but in business, too.” What makes your work unique?“I do couture for everyday.”

VALENTINA CARRANO’s Fleur nappa booties, handpainted by artist Donald Robertson

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PAULA CADEMARTORI double-strap slide, ETRO lace-up pointy flat

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FENDI striped open-toe pumps

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BOTTEGA VENETA patent Mary Jane pump, CHURCH’s burnished brogue

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VALENTINO beaded ankle-strap pumps, MISSONI crisscross mules

Clockwise from left: FRATELLI ROSSETTI tassel loafer and lace-up oxford, THE ROW embroidered mule

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BRUNELLO CUCINELLI embellished slide sandals

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MIU MIU woven flat-forms with strapping and ribbon-wrap ties

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The spring Nanette Nanette Lepore line also features floral embroidery and lace details. 25

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Variety ShowsSpring ’17 is looking like primary season for Nanette Nanette Lepore. The brand’s Tracy sandal offers up a symbol of trend unity, combining the popular rainbow color story with the ever-present block heel, all in a suede-and-leather mixed-media construction.

Fiesta Flare

In Spanish resort town San Sebastian, the sky was alight

earlier this month for the city’s legendary fireworks contest. On the streets, vacationers put on a worthy show as well, in eye-catching summery styles.

Photographed by

Manu Valcarce

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The International Fireworks Competition is held annually during the week of Aug. 15 T H E L I S T26 WOMEN’S

THEY ARE

WEARING

T H E L I S T 27WOMEN’S(also known as the Virgin’s Day) in the middle of San Sebastian’s La Concha Bay.

Andrew Kiernan is returning to United Nude in a key role as the company relocates to L.A.28 T H E L I S T WOMEN’S

United Nude is celebrating some new creative partnerships, working with Japanese designer Issey Miyake and with Dutch shoe designer Jan Jansen on a pair of collab collections for spring ’17. “We get a lot of requests for collaborations. Sometimes we do it more for image or exposure, and sometimes we do it for an experiment or a commercial exercise,” said brand founder and creative director Rem D. Koolhaas. “We’ve been collaborating with a lot of extreme brands, and I’m excited about it.” (United Nude also recently opened a pop-up shop in New York’s Soho neighborhood and is plotting a curated retail concept space, with a gallery vibe in mind, in the Los Angeles area.) For the spring collection, Koolhaas and his team added a wider variety of silhouettes. “We have a lot of nice bright colors and comfortable fl ats,” he said. “In the beginning, the majority of the shoes were high heels; now we make more fl ats. We’ve had a new design team for a couple of seasons and are taking steps forward together.” Here, the designer shares the music at the top of his personal chart, his favorite family activities and the person he’d love to dine with.

Rem D. Koolhaas The United Nude power player gets candid about brand moves and personal favorites. By Kristen Henning

GOOD TASTE

BRANDS I ADMIRE:

“I like so many for so many different reasons: Alaïa, Alexander Wang, Hervé Léger. I’m also a fan of Adidas.”

MUSIC OBSESSION:

“I’m into the latest Drake album. His music is sometimes a bit cheesy, but I like cheesy music.”

3

NEXT TRAVEL DESTINATION:

“I’ve never been to Hawaii. Now that I’m moving to Los Angeles, we’re going on holiday to see all the places I’ve never been.”

BEST FAMILY ACTIVITIES:

“I like to draw with my kids. I also like to swim with them, so we go to the beach.”

DREAM DINNER DATE:

“Russell Brand. He wants to wake people up, and he’s a strong critic for a lot of things. He would be so funny and make a nice mess of the dinner.”

TOP SHOPPING SPOTS:

“I like to buy new products on Kickstarter. I buy different types of cameras, and on my birthday, I got a pretty good drone.” P

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amara Mellon: internet mogul? It’s not the first description that comes to mind for the footwear designer and serial

entrepreneur, but in October, Mellon is relaunching her namesake brand as a direct-to-consumer operation.

Under the new structure, the com-pany will eliminate all wholesale ac-counts and sell its products exclusively on the brand’s e-commerce site.

“Three years ago, [when I launched my line], I did ‘buy now and wear now,’ but the industry wasn’t ready for it,” Mellon told FN. “I’m now doing

direct to the consumer and delivering things monthly that you would want to wear in that season. No collections. I’m excited to deliver shoes to women in a way that they actually shop.”

The decision comes after Mellon filed for voluntary Chapter 11 bank-ruptcy protection in late 2015 and began to pursue a new path.

In July, she completed a $12 mil-lion Series A round of fundraising, led by Chevy Chase, Md.-based New Enterprise Associates, to support the effort. At the same time, the company brought on former Back-country.com CEO Jill Layfield as its

chief executive. “Jill is not from a traditional fash-

ion business,” said Mellon, “but she knows how to build a business online. That’s what I’m looking for.”

Under Layfield’s watch, Backcoun-try’s annual revenue grew from $30 million to more than $500 million. In a statement announcing the hire, Layfield said, “Tamara’s expertise in luxury shoes and vision for the brand, combined with NEA’s long track record of partnering with entrepre-neurs to build market-leading busi-nesses, is an exciting combination.We have an opportunity to reshape the footwear-buying experience and build an iconic brand in the process.”

Despite initial struggles, Mellon believes the fundamentals of her busi-ness are strong: “Even though we put [the label] through rework, we did $8 million in revenue last year.”

And the executive predicted this new model could become the way of the future. “The customer gets to see something today and wear it tomor-row. This is how the next generation of luxury brands will be built,” Mellon said. “I will have no wholesale margin in my product, so just amazing quality with competitive prices.”

A Direct Approach

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Tamara Mellon looks to bounce back after bankruptcy with fundraising, a new CEO and a revamped business model. By Kristen Henning

NWPortland, OR

August 30 & 31

NEDanvers, MA

September 7 & 8

The #1 sourcing shows in the USA.

Connecting the raw materials and

components suppliers with the Apparel,

Footwear & Accessories Industries for 20+ years.

AMERICANEVENTS.COM

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Armando CabralFor spring ’17, Portuguese model-turned-shoe designer Armando Cabral imagined new wardrobe essentials for his well-traveled customers, taking style cues from several global destinations. The main hot spots: Morocco, Istanbul, Greece and New York (where Cabral lives). Results included slip-ons inspired by traditional Moroccan Babouches and textured materials drawn from Istanbul markets.

By Christian Allaire

INSPIRATION POINT

5

“Berlin is a beautiful place with a lot of international people. It’s also a very young city, so we created a pair of deerskin sneakers that you can wear with a suit or jeans. ”

“Istanbul markets are built around texture, so we played with different materials like embossed leather on loafers or laceups.”

T H E L I S T MEN’S Many of Armando Cabral’s shoes are named after streets in downtown New York.

“With Morocco, we played with a lot of terra-cotta colors, wovens and espadrilles. We did the Jetset slip-on in white, gray and sea-gray blue.”

“It’s all about the details with this collection.”

“Our guy is a global nomad, so we tried to imagine where he would vacation this summer.”

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well-dressed man with ugly shoes is just a man with ugly shoes,” declared Sergio Guardì. It is an unbearable

thought to the entrepreneur, who with his brother Sebastiano founded Barbanera in 2011. The label started as a made-to-order brand and then became a proper whole-sale line, which has grown fast thanks to its timeless aesthetic boasting an irrever-ent, rock ’n’ roll edge.

Each shoe is named after a male icon from the past. For instance, there’s the Gatsby brogue, the Hemingway tasseled loafer, the Cash mid-calf boot and the Brummel cap-toe oxford. In keeping with the label’s cheeky glamour, the styles come in contrasting materials, such as canvas, tweed, wool, suede and lizard.

“We didn’t want our shoes to just be vintage, but feel fresh and have a twist,” said Sergio Guardì, who produces the line in a Tuscan factory alongside Italian luxury behemoths such as Gucci and Prada. “A lot of the traditional factories are dead, and the good ones that are left are full with orders, but we came just at

the right time. The biggest challenge for an independent brand like ours with no factory of its own are the price points.”

Barbanera shoes, which are crafted by hand and employ traditional, British Goodyear welting for increased durabil-ity, start at 630 euros, or $713 at current exchange. They are sold in at least 35 high-end doors, including Barneys New York and Beams in Japan.

In September, the self-taught broth-ers, who have a background in music and advertising, are set to open an

e-store to boost the brand’s visibility. “We have lots of work left to do in

Europe. But the U.S. and Italy are also very im-

portant markets for us,” Sergio

Guardì said.In addition, the entrepreneurs also

vowed to sweep the female customer off her feet with the launch of a new women’s collection, consisting of more-feminine versions of their dandy-made formula. One such off ering: The Starman Chelsea boot, a tribute to David Bowie, featuring lightning bolt-shaped elastic side panels. Set to be unveiled in September, it willbe available in gold, silver, ice grayand denim.

How the Guardì brothers are livening up the luxe men’s market with Barbanera. By Paulina Szmydke

The Dandy Way

‘A

Sergio (left) and Sebastiano

Guardì

Alberto Fasciani produces his shoe collection in Fermo, located in Italy’s Marche region.

ALBERTO FASCIANIThe Italian luxury shoemaker, who supplies European royals with riding boots from his namesake label, is going eco. He explains why.

By Paulina Szmydke

1You’ve been working on a special new collection. What can you tell us about it? It’s an organic shoe line that will be available for spring ’17. To be fair, [calling it “organic”] means that about 95 percent of a given shoe from the collection is made in an eco-friendly fashion, minus little details such as laces, for instance. We hope to start a trend with this in the Italian luxury sector.

2What is that amazing fragrance coming from the shoes? That comes from our natural tanning process, which contains the so-called “tannino.” These are

scented chips of wood that weuse to both partially dye and perfume the leather. We canmake any type of color with it,as well as diff erent scents. The process is nontoxic — that is, free of any heavy metals such as chromium, which would normally be found in the upper and lining of a leather shoe. We also use natural watercolors and water glues, and our soles are made of nontreated leather instead of the usual PVCor TPU.

3Why did you decide to go green? The industry is changing; the attitudes of the consumers are changing. According to studies, 75 percent of people are interested in sustainability. Even the factories are paying more attention to it these days. So we realized we needed to do something, too.But at the same time, we wanted to be diff erent from the masses. Horse-riding shoes have been our specialty since 1950, but we began crafting fashion footwear some 13 years ago, which now accounts for about 65 percent of our turnover, and that has been up 50 percent in the last year, so there is great demand.

4Do the prices for the eco range diff er from the core collection? Our retail prices range from 270 euros to 1,500 euros [or $305 to $1,698 at current exchange], but the eco line will retail at around 500 euros [or $566].

5Queen Elizabeth II recently picked up one of your sleek riding boots. What is your best-seller? That must be the ankle boot with a zip in the back. But we are introducing a number of lighter styles such as the tasseled loafer that you can easily bend, thanks to the construction, welting and softness of its sole, which has already received a great response. And we will do espadrilles as well.

5 QUESTIONS

31T H E L I S TMEN’S

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Barbanera’sStarmanChelsea

A cap-toe men’s slip-on

by AlbertoFasciani

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SPRING TREND

32 On model: Chanel’s resort show took a bride-versus-groom approach to black-and-white dressing. T H E L I S T COMFORT

Fly London’s wavy-striped slide with exposed cork footbed

Wedge sandal with laser-cut upper from Dr. Scholl’s Original Collection

Athleisure style with patent accents and Velcro strap from Taryn Rose

Perforated sandal from Azuraon a map-print wedge

Gabor’s fl atform with giraff e-print vamp and crisscross straps

Waldlaufer’s penny moc with sawtooth outsole and mosaic keeper

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Comfort brands are making a case for black and white this season, pairing the opposing combo in

classic and modern geometric patterns.

Yin Meets Yang

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hen Caleres launched the Bzees brand in spring ’13, the athleisure trend was just starting to make its mark.

However, the company’s manage-ment team quickly capitalized on the movement by introducing Bzees as a part of Naturalizer. “We saw a void in the market,” said Lori McDermid, VP of wholesale for the Naturalizer fam-ily and the head of Bzees.

Now, after a quick takeoff, the sublabel has found its footing as a standalone. “Naturalizer is such a dominant brand in the comfort arena, so it was nice to be able to draft off that and incubate a baby brand,” said McDermid.

The debut Bzees collection focused on four styles on a single construc-tion. Since then, the line has expand-ed into a broader lifestyle collection featuring sandals and boots, which retail for $59 to $99 at accounts in-cluding Von Maur, Dillard’s, outdoor retail chain Sun & Ski and HSN.

“While we have an athleisure clas-sification, category extensions have allowed customers to experience the brand in multiple uses,” said McDer-

mid. For spring ’17, new looks include the Balance (an athletic-inspired shoe), the Tempo Mary Jane and the fisherman-style Krave sandal.

The brand is targeted to a broad customer base that includes young moms and active retirees. To find out about their footwear needs, the Bzees team seeks out face-to-face interactions. “We [talk] to them at airports, grocery stores or at school conferences,” McDermid said.

One of its business movesincluded an equal emphasis on styling and comfort by incorporating Bzees’ proprietary Cloud Technology system that features Free Foam, a microcellular polymer for resiliency.

The shoes also are built with stretch upper materials that allow for freedom of movement and EVA outsoles infused with air bubbles for cushioning. Shoes typically weigh 8 to 12 ounces per pair.

The entire collection is also machine-washable. “Our customers love its washability,” said McDermid, “Their lives are so hectic, so they want the products they buy to last and perform.”

Caleres’ Bzees label is shaping up to be a real competitor in the athleisure field. By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Play Action W

The Wish style fromBzees’ waterproof

collection

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Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar

ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE

SEPTEMBER

9/5 8/24 Sneakerhead Distribution: NE Materials Show, Shoe Market of Americas

9/12 8/31 Jimmy Choo Milestone Distribution: Children’s Great Event Shoe Show

9/19 9/7 Must Buys Spring, China, NY Runway Coverage Distribution: Sole Commerce, Children’s Club of NY

OCTOBER

10/3 9/21 DSW Milestone, Best In Kids, Kids Fashion, Milan Runway Coverage

10/10 9/28 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear, Outdoor, Paris Runway Coverage Distribution: FDRA Summit (CA)

10/17 10/5 FN 100

10/24 10/12 QVC Presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Distribution: QVC presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Event

NOVEMBER

11/7 10/26 Journeys Milestone Distribution: NSRA Leadership Conference

11/14 11/2 Comfort, Slippers, Rainboots

11/21 11/9 FFANY Pre-Show Distribution: FFANY, Two Ten Footwear Annual Gala

11/28 11/16 FN Achievement Awards, FFANY Show Distribution: FN Achievement Awards, FFANY

The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge stopped in Luton, England, last week to visit Youthscape, a project-based charity for young people with various needs. Kate Middleton looked summery in L.K. Bennett’s nude pumps and the brand’s Lasa poppy-print blue and white dress.

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO.28. AUGUST 29, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfill-ment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes unde-liverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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PickBloomof Youth