Rules for Chess

 

Object of the Chess Game It's rather simple; there are two players with one player having 16 black or dark color chess pieces and the other player having 16 white or light color chess pieces. The chess players move on a square chessboard made up of 64 individual squares consisting of 32 dark squares and 32 light squares. Each chess piece has a defined starting point or square with the dark chess pieces aligned on one side of the board and the light pieces on the other. There are 6 different types of chess pieces, each with it's own unique method to move on the chessboard. The chess pieces are used to both attack and defend from attack, against the other players chessmen. Each player has one chess piece called the king. The ultimate objective of the game is to capture the opponents king. Having said this, the king will never actually be captured. When either sides king is trapped to where it cannot move without being taken, it's called "checkmate" or the shortened version "mate". At this point, the game is over. The object of playing chess is really quite simple, but mastering this game of chess is a totally different story.Chess Board Setup

Now that you have a basic concept for the object of the chess game, the next step is to get the the chessboard and chess pieces setup according to the rules of playing chess. Lets start with the chess pieces. The 16 chess pieces are made up of 1 King, 1 queen, 2 bishops, 2 knights, 2 rooks, and 8 pawns. From the following diagram, you can identify the pieces and the general character of their shape and appearance and also the location or square the chess pieces start from according to the chess rules. Now the chessboard. The correct orientation, as per the chess rules, is with a black square on your left side as facing the chess board. One of the more common mistakes in setting up the chess board is reversing the king and queen chess pieces. Remember, as per the chess rules, the queen is always on her own color while the king is always on the opposite color.

How the Chess Pieces Move Now that you have the chessboard setup with each piece sitting on its correct square, you need to know the chess rules of how each chess piece moves. The following are diagrams and instructions for the move of

each chess piece. Chess piece - King Having a king is mandatory even though he's pretty much worthless and really nothing more than a mere figure-head. But that's the rule of chess, like it or not, you have to have a king. The king is always the tallest piece on the chessboard and the king chess piece will usually have a cross-like object on top. By the rules of chess, his moves are pretty limited, he can only move one square at a time but he can move forward, backward, left, right and diagonally. Not to offer any particular strategy, but keep him safe and well protected!

Chess piece - Queen Unlike the king, the queen is no figure-head. She's the most powerful chess piece you have on the chessboard. The queen usually looks like a queen in the sense that she'll have a crown, sometimes with nice sharp points. According to the rules of playing chess, she can move vertically, horizontally, and diagonally just as many squares she wants (without jumping other chess pieces). So you'll want to be careful and not give her up too carelessly or without a steep price to your opponent.

Chess piece -Bishop The bishop, well, I guess you could say the top of the chess piece looks sort of like a bishop hat. Most bishops also have a cut near the top resembling that of a mouth. There are two bishops, always one on a light square and one on a dark square. Chess rules say that bishops move just like the queen except they can't move forward, backward, left or right. Diagonally only just as many spaces as desired without jumping another chess piece. Because bishops move diagonally, they will always remain on their original square color as per the rules of chess. So if in the middle of a chess game you notice either your opponent or your bishops are on the same color square - something's gone very wrong.

Chess piece - Knight The knight is the most unique chess piece you have! Not only does it usually resemble a horse, it is the only chess piece that can jump over another chess piece or pieces according to chess rules. The knight's move is rather different. Think of the move as "L" shaped - two squares either forward, backward, left, or right and then left or right one square. This special feature, being able to jump, can make the knight a very useful chess piece early in the game.

Chess piece - Rook The rook is also called the castle by some and it actually looks like a castle or at least a castle tower. The rook, as per chess rules, moves just like the queen except it can't move diagonally. Just forward, backward, left, and right but as many spaces as desired without jumping other chess pieces.

Chess piece - Pawn The poor little pawns are put out in front right in harms way while the other guys are hiding back behind. As per the rules of playing chess, they're expected to advance out in front and take the brunt of an oncoming attack or serve as a shield. It seems rather unfair considering they're pretty defenseless. These chess piece are allowed to only move one square at at time by the rules of chess. However, in thier first move, they can move two squares if they want. They can only move straight forward - no retreating for these soldiers according of the chess rules. And they can only capture one of the enemy by approaching diagonally. But, according t the chess rules, if one of these brave little soldiers can make it to the other side, they are rewarded with a promotion - to a queen! Some promotion that is!

Chess Board Notation Those that take chess pretty seriously, actually keep track of all their moves and record entire games. In order to record moves, someone came up with the smart idea of labeling the columns with letters and the rows with numbers, thus each square is uniquely identified. As you can see, white has a tremendous advantage because he or she doesn't have to look at upside-down numbers and read the alphabet backwards. One of the more important reasons to be the white or light chess players side.

Castling Castling can be a very effective strategy in the defense of your king and providing a safe-haven for him. The act of "castling" involves two chess pieces, the rook and king and there are two different ways to castle. Rather than trying to describe the two methods (which might get confusing), we'll rely on the diagrams below to guide you through the correct moves. Now, there are special rules of chess and conditions that must exist in order to castle. The special conditions are:

Neither of the chess pieces involved, your king or rook that is being castled, have been moved during the chess game.

There are no other chess pieces between the king and the rook involved in the castling. Your king is not in check and neither your king or rook can be taken by your opponent's next

move after castling.

You can castle with either of the rooks as long as these special conditions are met. The moves involved in castling with the Queen side rook are different than castling with king side rook. This is quite natural given that there 2 spaces between the king and rook on the king side and respectively 3 spaces on the queen side. Below are diagrams showing both methods of castling:King Side Castling (white) Before After Castling

Queen Side Castling (white) Before After Castling

En Passant There is a unique chess rule which involves a special move in chess that many casual players are not aware of, the rule is called "en passant". This move involves only pawns and the situation for en passant may or may not occur during a game. But if it does, it's good to know the rule and how to execute the move properly. En passant is limited to a pawn moving from it's original position 2 squares landing adjacent to an opponent’s pawn. On the very next move and only the next move, this pawn can be captured as illustrated below:

White's Move Black's Move After Capture

All pawns of both sides are subject to the en passant rule of chess.Promotion We have already mentioned promotion of the pawn, but lets review exactly how this happens and what your options are. Promotion occurs when you get a pawn clear across to the other side. In the same move of the pawn reaches a far square, you remove the pawn and replace it with any chess piece you want, that is, excepta second king. Even if you already have all of your chess pieces. For example, most people naturally choose a queen. So you can have two queens, and that's quite an advantage. But you can choose some other chess piece if you prefer, it's entirely up to you. Here are a couple of diagrams to illustrate just how promotion works: Before Promotion

Let's Play Now that you have the chess board all setup, you know how each chess piece moves along with the special chess rules, let’s get the game underway. White always moves first and most players prefer to be white because you can achieve a slight advantage by moving first. So what we recommend is you have a best out of three "rock-scissors-paper" to determine who keeps to be white. Or, if you prefer, you can cast lots by putting a different color pawn in each hand and then letting your friend choose one. From this point on, it's real easy, white makes the first move and then you just take turns moving chess pieces and trying to checkmate your opponent's king while taking as many chess pieces as you can along the way. But before that first move, there's a few more rules that we better go over.Don't Let Go (until you're sure)! This is a very important chess rule, when you move your chess piece and let go, you're beyond the point of no return. The move is final. Now, if you move it to a square and keep your finger on top while pondering the genius or folly of the move, it's okay to backtrack and decide on a different move. So be certain about your move before you let go!

Check You know what checkmate or mate is, but we haven't yet explained the baby brother of checkmate called check. When a king has been attacked and can be taken on the next move but can escape, it is called check. Just like when you announced you were going to castle, it's also considered good manners to tell your opponent he's in check "CHECK". Standing up for the announcement is optional. The Ending You know about checkmate, which ends the game, but there are three other possible endings to a game. One possibility is a stalemate or draw, meaning that with the given pieces left on the board, neither player can win. For example, a king against a king. There are no winning possibilities for either side in this situation. Another possible outcome is for one player to resign. A game can become so one-sided (both remaining pieces and position) that the advantage is too great for the other player to overcome. When this happens, the disadvantaged player can simply call "uncle" and give it up. But don't give up too easy, mistakes can always be made. The third possibility is a draw, even though a checkmate is possible. 

Rules for Checkers

1. Checkers is played by two players. Each player begins the game with 12 colored discs. (Typically, one set of pieces is black and the other red.)

2. The board consists of 64 squares, alternating between 32 dark and 32 light squares. It is positioned so that each player has a light square on the right side corner closest to him or her.

3. Each player places his or her pieces on the 12 dark squares closest to him or her. 4. Black moves first. Players then alternate moves. 5. Moves are allowed only on the dark squares, so pieces always move diagonally. Single pieces

are always limited to forward moves (toward the opponent). 6. A piece making a non-capturing move (not involving a jump) may move only one square. 7. A piece making a capturing move (a jump) leaps over one of the opponent's pieces, landing in a

straight diagonal line on the other side. Only one piece may be captured in a single jump; however, multiple jumps are allowed on a single turn.

8. When a piece is captured, it is removed from the board. 9. If a player is able to make a capture, there is no option -- the jump must be made. If more than

one capture is available, the player is free to choose whichever he or she prefers. 10. When a piece reaches the furthest row from the player who controls that piece, it is crowned and

becomes a king. One of the pieces which had been captured is placed on top of the king so that it is twice as high as a single piece.

11. Kings are limited to moving diagonally, but may move both forward and backward. (Remember that single pieces, i.e. non-kings, are always limited to forward moves.)

12. Kings may combine jumps in several directions -- forward and backward -- on the same turn. Single pieces may shift direction diagonally during a multiple capture turn, but must always jump forward (toward the opponent).

13. A player wins the game when the opponent cannot make a move. In most cases, this is because all of the opponent's pieces have been captured, but it could also be because all of his pieces are blocked in.

Tips:

1. Checkers (using the U.S. rules) uses the same board as Chess. Many sets comes with the pieces needed to play both games.

2. Many different games can be played using the basic 8x8 Checkers board and pieces. In fact, it's not too hard to come up with your own variants. And here's a collection of free games for an 8x8 board that can be played with game pieces you probably already have.

What You Need

8x8 game board 24 discs (12 of 2 colors)

Rules of Backgammon

Setup

Backgammon is a game for two players, played on a board consisting of twenty-four narrow triangles called points. The triangles alternate in color and are grouped into four quadrants of six triangles each. The quadrants are referred to as a player's home board and outer board, and the opponent's home board and outer board. The home and outer boards are separated from each other by a ridge down the center of the board called the bar.

Figure 1. A board with the checkers in their initial position. An alternate arrangement is the reverse of the one shown here, with the home board on the left and the outer board on the right.

The points are numbered for either player starting in that player's home board. The outermost point is the twenty-four point, which is also the opponent's one point. Each player has fifteen checkers of his own color. The initial arrangement of checkers is: two on each player's twenty-four point, five on each player's thirteen point, three on each player's eight point, and five on each player's six point.

Both players have their own pair of dice and a dice cup used for shaking. A doubling cube, with the numerals 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, and 64 on its faces, is used to keep track of the current stake of the game.

Object of the Game

The object of the game is move all your checkers into your own home board and then bear them off. The first player to bear off all of their checkers wins the game.

Figure 2. Direction of movement of White's checkers. Red's checkers move in the opposite direction.

Movement of the Checkers

To start the game, each player throws a single die. This determines both the player to go first and the numbers to be played. If equal numbers come up, then both players roll again until they roll different numbers. The player throwing the higher number now moves his checkers according to the numbers showing on both dice. After the first roll, the players throw two dice and alternate turns.

The roll of the dice indicates how many points, or pips, the player is to move his checkers. The checkers are always moved forward, to a lower-numbered point. The following rules apply:

1. A checker may be moved only to an open point, one that is not occupied by two or more opposing checkers.

2. The numbers on the two dice constitute separate moves. For example, if a player rolls 5 and 3, he may move one checker five spaces to an open point and another checker three spaces to an open point, or he may move the one checker a total of eight spaces to an open point, but only if the intermediate point (either three or five spaces from the starting point) is also open.

Figure 3. Two ways that White can play a roll of .

3. A player who rolls doubles plays the numbers shown on the dice twice. A roll of 6 and 6 means that the player has four sixes to use, and he may move any combination of checkers he feels appropriate to complete this requirement.

4. A player must use both numbers of a roll if this is legally possible (or all four numbers of a double). When only one number can be played, the player must play that number. Or if either number can be played but not both, the player must play the larger one. When neither number can be used, the player loses his turn. In the case of doubles, when all four numbers cannot be played, the player must play as many numbers as he can.

Hitting and Entering

A point occupied by a single checker of either color is called a blot. If an opposing checker lands on a blot, the blot is hit and placed on the bar.

Any time a player has one or more checkers on the bar, his first obligation is to enter those checker(s) into the opposing home board. A checker is entered by moving it to an open point corresponding to one of the numbers on the rolled dice.

For example, if a player rolls 4 and 6, he may enter a checker onto either the opponent's four point or six point, so long as the prospective point is not occupied by two or more of the opponent's checkers.

Figure 4. If White rolls with a checker on the bar, he must enter the checker onto Red's four point since Red's six point is not open.

If neither of the points is open, the player loses his turn. If a player is able to enter some but not all of his checkers, he must enter as many as he can and then forfeit the remainder of his turn.

After the last of a player's checkers has been entered, any unused numbers on the dice must be played, by moving either the checker that was entered or a different checker.

Bearing Off

Once a player has moved all of his fifteen checkers into his home board, he may commence bearing off. A player bears off a checker by rolling a number that corresponds to the point on which the checker resides, and then removing that checker from the board. Thus, rolling a 6 permits the player to remove a checker from the six point.

If there is no checker on the point indicated by the roll, the player must make a legal move using a checker on a higher-numbered point. If there are no checkers on higher-numbered points, the player is permitted (and required) to remove a checker from the highest point on which one of his checkers resides. A player is under no obligation to bear off if he can make an otherwise legal move.

Figure 5. White rolls and bears off two

checkers.

A player must have all of his active checkers in his home board in order to bear

off. If a checker is hit during the bear-off process, the player must bring that checker back to his home board before continuing to bear off. The first player to bear off all fifteen checkers wins the game.

Doubling

Backgammon is played for an agreed stake per point. Each game starts at one point. During the course of the game, a player who feels he has a sufficient advantage may propose doubling the stakes. He may do this only at the start of his own turn and before he has rolled the dice.

A player who is offered a double may refuse, in which case he concedes the game and pays one point. Otherwise, he must accept the double and play on for the new higher stakes. A player who accepts a double becomes the owner of the cube and only he may make the next double.

Subsequent doubles in the same game are called redoubles. If a player refuses a redouble, he must pay the number of points that were at stake prior to the redouble. Otherwise, he becomes the new owner of the cube and the game continues at twice the previous stakes. There is no limit to the number of redoubles in a game.

Gammons and Backgammons

At the end of the game, if the losing player has borne off at least one checker, he loses only the value showing on the doubling cube (one point, if there have been no doubles). However, if the loser has not borne off any of his checkers, he is gammoned and loses twice the value of the doubling cube. Or, worse, if the loser has not borne off any of his checkers and still has a checker on the bar or in the winner's home board, he is backgammoned and loses three times the value of the doubling cube.

Optional Rules

The following optional rules are in widespread use.

1. Automatic doubles. If identical numbers are thrown on the first roll, the stakes are doubled. The doubling cube is turned to 2 and remains in the middle. Players usually agree to limit the number of automatic doubles to one per game.

2. Beavers. When a player is doubled, he may immediately redouble (beaver) while retaining possession of the cube. The original doubler has the option of accepting or refusing as with a normal double.

3. The Jacoby Rule. Gammons and backgammons count only as a single game if neither player has offered a double during the course of the game. This rule speeds up play by eliminating situations where a player avoids doubling so he can play on for a gammon.

Irregularities

1. The dice must be rolled together and land flat on the surface of the right-hand section of the board. The player must reroll both dice if a die lands outside the right-hand board, or lands on a checker, or does not land flat.

2. A turn is completed when the player picks up his dice. If the play is incomplete or otherwise illegal, the opponent has the option of accepting the play as made or of requiring the player to make a legal play. A play is deemed to have been accepted as made when the opponent rolls his dice or offers a double to start his own turn.

3. If a player rolls before his opponent has completed his turn by picking up the dice, the player's roll is voided. This rule is generally waived any time a play is forced or when there is no further contact between the opposing forces.

 

   

Rules of Cribbage

Cribbage is a card game that is thought to have been invented in the 17th century by Sir John Suckling. It was also the favorite card game of Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Franklin. Here's how to play: Number of players: Best for two players although three- and four-handed variations also exist. Object: To reach 121 points for the traditional or long game; 61 points for the short game. Points are scored by forming specific combinations of cards. The cards: Standard 52-card deck. Cards are assigned a point value equal to rank. Aces are low and count 1; face cards count 10. The Cribbage board: A regulation board has four rows of 30 holes, marked off in groups of five and organized in two rows of two (two for each player). The pegs that come with the board are typically different colors to identify individual players. Each player has two pegs. Before play begins, the four pegs are placed at the start end of the board. The movement of the pegs, up the outside row and down the inside row back to the start, shows the progress of each player's game. The complete trip of the pegs is equal to 61 points. The traditional game is two trips, or 121 points. Use the two pegs in alternating fashion (the first peg indicates the previous score; the second peg indicates the most recent score); in this way, scores can be checked for accuracy. (Don't worry if you lack a Cribbage board because paper and pencil can substitute as a way to keep score. However, a Cribbage board is preferable.) See the sections on scoring for a complete guide on how to score points and move the pegs. Dealing: Players cut for low card to determine first dealer. If this results in a tie, cut again. The nondealer immediately pegs 3 points for compensation, which occurs only once. Henceforth, players alternate dealing, as well as alternate taking turns during a game. Each player is dealt six cards, one at a time. Both players select two cards from their hands and place them facedown to form the "crib," which belongs to the dealer. The crib is not shown or used until the end of play. The crib is essentially an extra hand scored for the dealer. Deciding which cards to place in the crib, whether or not you are the dealer, is an enormous part of cribbage strategy.

©2006 Publications International, Ltd.

The cards you select for the crib depend on whose crib it is. If the crib belongs to your opponent (left), put the 5 and 8

into the crib because you can use the 4 to begin play and later

score a pair and two 15s. If the crib belongs to you (right), put the two 6s into the crib, where you will be guaranteed at least a pair. If your opponent happens to add one 6 into

your crib, it will be more than scoring two 15s; that is, 6 points instead of 4 points.

The start card: After the deal and after forming the crib, the nondealer cuts the remaining pack. The dealer turns over the top card of the stack to indicate the start card. If the start card is a jack (called "two for his heels"), the dealer automatically pegs 2 (scores 2 points). The start card will not be used until play is complete. Playing: Nondealer may now play any one card from his or her hand. This is done by turning a card faceup and calling out its value -- face cards count as 10, the ace counts as 1, and the rest of the cards count as their face value. The dealer next does the same, saying aloud the sum value of the two cards played. For instance, if the nondealer laid down a 3 and the dealer laid down a 4, the dealer would announce the combined value as 7. The cards are kept separate in front of the players. The play continues back and forth between players until one player makes 31 and pegs 2 points. If, however, you cannot play any of your remaining cards without exceeding 31 during this round, you say, "Go." This tells your opponent to continue lay down cards as long as he or she cannot go past 31 while scoring combinations (see "Pegging for melds in play"). Your opponent must play any remaining cards in his or her hand, adding up to 31 or less. At this point, your opponent pegs 1 point for a "Go" or 2 points if he or she scores 31 points exactly. Play now ends for this deal. Pegging for melds made in play: Scoring is kept for the "Go," 31, last card, and combinations (melds) made in play. Melds are pegged as they happen. These melds are:

If you make a count of 15 during play, peg 2.

If you match the rank of the card played by the opponent, peg 2 for the pair.

Three cards of the same rank are worth 6 points (6 pegs), the fourth one scores (pegs) 12.

Sequences also count, and the cards don't have to be in exact order. For example, 3-6-4-5 scores 4 points for the last player, and if the next player follows with a 2, that sequence is worth 5 points.

You do not score a flush (a sequence of cards of the same suit) in play, however, until the hand is tallied.

Scoring Combinations Fifteen: Any combination of cards totaling exactly 15 points, 2 points Pair: Two cards of the same rank, 2 points

Triplet: Three cards of the same rank, 6 points Quartet: Four cards of the same rank, 12 points Sequence: Three or more cards in a row, any suit (aces always low), 1 point per card Flush: Four cards of the same suit (not the crib and not including the starter), 4 points; five cards in hand or crib with starter, 5 points His Nobs: Jack of same suit as starter, 1 point

Combination melds are also possible. For instance, if you start by playing a 5, your opponent can score 2 points by matching your 5, but then you can match with a third five and receive a bonus for hitting 15 as well as a bonus for matching three cards. Scoring the hands: After the play, the players reexamine their cards for possible scoring combinations (see the "Scoring Combinations" sidebar). First, the nondealer counts points from the four played cards and the start card, making as many combinations as they can from the five cards available to them. Second, the dealer counts points from the four played cards and the start card; and third, the dealer counts points from the four cards in the crib and the start card. Much like the melds in play, combination scores are not only possible, but essential in cribbage. Cards may be used several times in an effort to make separate scoring combinations. For instance, if the start card is a 3 and you have a J in your hand, you can use the J to make the "His Nobs" combination as well as any other combinations possible with the card. Because Cribbage scoring is involved and precise, many players follow the rule of Muggins. In this variation players count aloud their points. If any points are overlooked, the opponent says aloud "Muggins" and takes the points overlooked into their own tally. Pegging out: A game is over when one player pegs out at 121 (or 61, in the shorter game). This can occur at any time, including before your opponent scores his or her points. So while the dealer gets the advantage of the crib, the nondealer -- because they tally their points first -- can peg out before the dealer even has the chance to score their points. It is also not necessary to reach 121 exactly. You can peg out by scoring more than 121 points. You score a double game when you skunk or "lurch" your opponent -- win by more than 60 points (in a 121-point game). Tips: One of the fine arts of Cribbage is choosing which cards to go into the crib and which cards to keep. If you have a high-scoring four-card group, such as 7-8-8-9, keep them and put the other two in the crib. If it's your own crib, put scoring cards such as pairs and 15s (or at least a 5-spot) into the crib, when this also leaves you a reasonable hand. In general, put middle-range cards (4 through 8) in

your own crib, and put high and low cards (2s and kings) in your opponent's. Take into account how many start cards will be good for the various choices of cards to keep. Likewise, consider how different start cards can combine with your crib discards. In play, start with a card that counts under 5 so that opponent can't peg an immediate 15. Near the end of the game, scoring order can greatly influence your discards and your decisions in play. For example, if you need just 3 or 4 points to win, then you don't need a high-scoring hand. Try to keep cards that will permit you to win during the play-out. Similarly, when dealer is 5 or 10 points from winning, opponent needs to score points soon and may have to gamble on getting help from the start card for a high-scoring hand.

   

Rules of Cribbage

Ages 7 to Adult

Set Up: Place all the dominoes face down on the table and mix them.

For Double Six Dominoes: 2 to 4 players. Each player takes 5 dominoes.

For Double Nine Dominoes: 2 to 7 players. Each player takes 7 dominoes.

For Double Twelve Dominoes: 2 to 10 players. Each player takes 9 dominoes.

Stand the pieces up with the dots facing you. Do not let the other players see your dominoes. The remaining dominoes become the draw pile.

Each domino is divided into two parts or ends, each containing a set of dots. A double domino contains matching ends (9-9, 8-8, etc.) The player who draws the highest double domino places it in the center of the table to begin the game. Play then proceeds to the left. (If no double was drawn, all dominoes are returned to the draw pile, remixed and redrawn.)

The second player then tries to match one of his dominoes to either end or side of the double. For example, if the first domino played is a double four, the second player may add any one of his dominoes containing four dots on one end. The next player may play to the remaining double four or he may try to match the end of the second domino played. Blanks match other blanks. Only one domino may be played at each turn. Dominoes are placed lengthwise rather than at right angles, except in the case of a double as shown.

Players match ends of the dominoes but may play to either end or to either side of a double, thereby giving two new directions in which to place dominoes.

If a player cannot match the dots at any open end of a row, he must pick from the draw pile until he is able to play a domino. If he draws the last domino and still cannot play, he passes and then tries again on his next turn. A player must play a domino if he is able to do so.

Play continues until one player has used all of his dominoes or until no one can play. If no further plays can be made and all dominoes have been drawn, the player with no dominoes or with the least number of points (dots on his remaining dominoes), wins the round. He subtracts the total of his points from the total of each of his opponents' points and adds the balance of

points for his score. For example: player A had the least amount of dots left in his hand (5). Player B had 19 dots and player C had 12 dots. Player A subtracts his dots from both player B and player C: 19-5=14, 12-5=7. Player A's score would be 21 (14+7=21).

Rounds continue until one player has scored at least 100 points and wins the game. To begin a new round, turn all the dominoes face down, mix them up and each player draws new dominoes (see Set Up for the amount to take). Every round is played the same way as the first, beginning with the player who has the highest double domino.

Other Games to play with Double Nine and Double Twelve Dominoes:

Matador (3 to 8 players)

Place the dominoes face down on the table and mix them. If there are 3 to 6 players, each draws 5 dominoes. It there are 6 to 8 players, each draws 5 dominoes. The player with the highest double domino, or if no one has a double, the player with the domino that has the most points, goes first. Play proceeds to the left.

Instead of playing a matching domino, the object is to play any domino that, when added to an open end, will total 10. For example, the opening domino is a double 9. In Matador, double dominoes count for only half their full value. A double 9 would only be worth 9 points instead of 18. The next player must place a domino with only 1 dot at the end of the double 9 to equal 10 points.

Since no domino can be added to a blank to equal 10, there are 6 Matador dominoes that can be played in this case. They are: 9-1, 8-2, 7-3, 6-4, 5-5 and double blank. These 6 Matadors are the only dominoes that can be played on a blank; however, they can also be played anywhere and at any time.

When a player cannot make the required 10, he must draw from the draw pile. If he is unable to draw a playable domino and there are no dominoes left in the pile, he must pass.

If a player has one or more Matador tiles, he has the option to play the Matador, or draw from the pile. If he chooses to draw and is unable to draw a playable domino, he must play his Matador.

The first player to place his last domino scores the total number of points remaining in each player's hand. A double left in a player's hand counts as its full value.

If no player is able to place his last domino, the game is blocked. The player who has the lowest number of points in his hand scores the difference between his hand and the total of each opponent.

The first player to score 100 or more points wins the game.

Tiddle-A Wink (6 to 10 players)

Place all dominoes face down on the table and mix them. Each player draws 5 dominoes. The player with the highest double domino goes first and play proceeds to the left.

When a double domino is played, either when starting or during the game, that player takes another turn. When a player is unable to match, he says "G" and passes. The first player to place his last domino calls "Tiddle-A-Wink" and receives the total number of points left in the other players' hands. If the game is blocked and no player is able to call "Tiddle-A-Wink" the player holding the least amount of points in his hand receives the total number of points from the other players' hands minus his own points.

The player to score 200 points is the winner.