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REFLECTING ON FALL INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY Since 1924 Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011
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RUBENSTEINSForum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011Since 1924
REFLECTING ON FALL
INSPIRATION: IRELANDSTYLE MATTERS
CLOSET THERAPY
28 Cover Forum Fall.qxp:COVER 7/14/11 6:05 PM Page 7
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MITCHELL J. LANDRIEU, MAYOR
CITY OF NEW ORLEANS
1300 PERDIDO STREET | SUITE 2E04 | NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA | 70112 PHONE 504.658.4900 | FAX 504.658.4938
Welcome!
Rubensteins is a retail landmark located in downtown New Orleans and this year they are celebrating their 87th year in business. It is one of the City's premier men's stores that specializes in a unique expression of Southern style. As one of the oldest storefronts on Canal Street, they have not only seen it all but will be there to see what is to come.
New Orleans is a place of diverse people, architecture and cuisine. Our historic French Quarter, fine restaurants and music and entertainment venues are essential parts of what makes New Orleans distinctive. A city known for its great culture, vibrancy and history, New Orleans has so much to offer that I know Rubensteins’ customers can fully appreciate.
On behalf of the entire city, I hope that you enjoy this magazine and get a taste of the city of New Orleans.
Sincerely,
Mitchell J. LandrieuMayor City of New Orleans
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RUBENSTEINS102 St. Charles Ave.
New Orleans, LA 70130(504) 581-6666
rubensteinsneworleans.com
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg GrossmanDESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans GschliesserMANAGING EDITOR
Jillian SpraguePROJECT MANAGER
Lisa MontemorraDESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole VendittiCONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ MitchellMERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob MitchellDIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg EadieDIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER
Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO
Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA
Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH
Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA
Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX
Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA
Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY
Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT
Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN
Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY
Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA
Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX
Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER
STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS
JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;
ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-
6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR
ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER
MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN
PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
FEATURES2 Welcome Letter
12 Wardrobe: Men’s Fashion in Film
36 Icons: Guitar Hero
FASHION10 Style: Trends for Men
14 Profile: A Decade of Agave
16 Life Is But a Dream
22 Why Style Matters
DEPARTMENTS 6 At Your Service
8 Ask Forum
30 World Scene
32 Travel: The Eyes Have It
40 Spirits: Cutting-Edge Cocktails
44 End Page: Closet Therapy
28 Contents.qxp:FORUM 7/14/11 10:15 AM Page RUB2
Black Label
RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABELRALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL
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6
AT YOUR SERVICE
Closet Cleaning In order to help you better integrateyour new seasonal purchases withyour existing wardrobe, we offer ourclients a complimentary closet con-sultation. One of our sales associ-ates will visit your home and pro-vide suggestions on creatively mix-ing and matching your wardrobe.
Complimentary ValetParkingRain or shine, as soon as you pull upon Canal Street, James is ready tohelp you from your car. He alsoplaces your packages in your carand has it ready for you when you’refinished shopping!
Concierge ServiceWe are always happy to recommendthe best entertainment, hotels,restaurants, salons and spas here inNew Orleans.
E-mailTo receive the latest informationon Rubensteins events and sales,please e-mail us at [email protected]. Formore information, please visitwww.rubensteinsneworleans.com.
Gift CardsGift Cards are the perfect gift whenyou’re not sure of the recipient’s tasteor size. They are available for any
amount you’d like and are ready tobe presented in minutes.
Gift WrapWe offer complimentary gift wrapin our distinctive packaging for allof your purchases.
Home Delivery & ShippingWe have the ability to ship yourpackage anywhere in the UnitedStates. In New Orleans, we canarrange a courier to deliver yourpurchase to your home or hotel.
Home ShoppingUnable to come in? Rubensteinscan come to you. Call an associateto make a convenient appointmentat your home or office.
In an EmergencyPerhaps you arrived in townbefore your luggage, forgot topack your bow tie, or need a suitfor a last minute event. Whateverthe emergency, call us at504.581.6666 and we will find aquick solution to your problem.We can also provide same dayalterations as needed.
Made-to-MeasurePick the fit, fabric and other detailsthat match your taste from our widevariety of styles and fabrications.Our made-to-measure garmentsinclude dress shirts, slacks, sportcoats and suits. And we’ll keep your
measurements on file, updatingthem as needed so we’re alwaysready to make you a new garment.
Personal Sales AssociatesUpon your arrival, our skilled salesassociates will happily greet you.After a brief introduction to thestore, our trained sales associateswill be able to help select your gar-ments based on your needs andtaste. After this first time consulta-tion, our sales associates can pre-select garments for your next visitor send them right to your homeupon request.
Shoe Shine & RepairNow you can get a beautiful shineor repair your favorite shoes whileyou shop. Shine Incorporated islocated in the shoe department atRubensteins.
TailoringOur on-site tailors will happilywork with you and your sales asso-ciate to create the perfect fit. A tai-lor can also provide any fitting orreadjustments to your previouspurchases.
Store HoursMonday–Thursday 10:00am–5:45pmFriday & Saturday 10:00am–6:00pm
AT RUBENSTEINS, IT IS OUR MISSION TO PROVIDE AN ENJOYABLE EXPERIENCE FOR OUR CUS-TOMERS. WE ARE CONTINUALLY IMPROVING OUR SERVICES TO MEET YOUR NEEDS AND PROVIDEHASSLE-FREE SHOPPING. BELOW ARE A VARIETY OF SERVICES THAT WE’RE HAPPY TO OFFER YOU.
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Q:My girlfriend has been buying mescarves but I have no idea how to
wear them. Are they in style?Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky handknits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpinedesigns, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to yourlook. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrapyour favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try theEuropean way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around yourneck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache.And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a greatfashion accent, whatever the weather.
Q:Magazines show bright color pants,yet on the streets, most guys wear
jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color? Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely anew direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contempo-rary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, givethem a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard towear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England fordecades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket modelsin neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill andcorduroy. With more options than ever in casual trousers,there’s no need to be boring—or bored.
Q:Why buy clothing in a specialty storewhen so much is available online?
While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats.First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods forall accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discountsite or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the“same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independ-ent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners andtrained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputationdepends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closetmakeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closetand update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it alltogether. In addition, store owners stand behind their product,so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.
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FALL AND WINTER ARE JUSTHEATING UP. BY WILLIAM KISSELTRENDS
FORMEN
style
The runways of Milan, New Yorkand Paris showcase fashion at itsmost extravagant. Limited editionwool suits and belts made from the mostexotic skins were paraded out to cause astir—and it worked.
Thankfully there’s more to menswearthan one-off pieces singularly designedwith connoisseurs in mind. This fall,men’s clothing and accessory makershave created some of their most variedand versatile collections to meet theeveryday needs of the stylish modernman. Sharp suits and sportcoats in arich array of autumnal colors andtweedy textures, sporty jackets made ofweatherproof materials, big bold knits insolids and multi-hued variations, andeven a resurgence of cashmere, cor-duroy and camel hair are wearable andon-trend. So whether you’re loungingaround the house, dashing to the office,going for a weekend road trip, or prepar-
A patternedsportcoat can bedressed up ordown, and adouble-breastedcamel peacoatsatisfies threetrends in one.
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ing for that big formal affair, thisfall’s offerings have you covered.
DUAL-PURPOSE Perfect for the officein classic pinstripes or subtle win-dowpane patterns, these samejackets come alive at night whenpaired with casual slacks andjeans, coincidentally the way mostreal men now define weekendwear. If you want to try somethingnew, check out this year’s crop ofdouble-breasted jackets, or DBs, asthey’re known. Nearly everydesigner from Armani to Zegna isbanking on double-breasted suitsplaying a starring role in men’swardrobes, this fall and beyond. Tothat end, double-breasted jackets
come in many variations, from lowfour-button models with softshoulders and very straight lapelsto serious, military-inspired highsix- and even eight-button, peaklapel jackets with strong shouldersand streamlined waists. Many ofthese shapes also carry over intoouterwear and sportcoats.
SWEET PEAS The pea coat originat-ed in the 18th century, when thedurable jackets were used to clothesailors and other military person-nel who found the “pij” material(from the Dutch word pijjekkermeaning twilled cloth) used tomake them incredibly warm.Modern menswear makers couldnot have foreseen record cold tem-peratures across the globe whenthey developed their own versionsof these hearty coats, but rest
assured that the double-breastedtoppers are ready to work doubleduty when necessary.
STRIKE A CORD Corduroy comes inmany sizes—from pinwale to extrawide wale—and this season topbrands like Belvest, Kiton, Zegna,Loro Piana and Canali have
employed the time-honored ribbedcloth in everything from jeans,jackets and sport shirts to outer-wear, blazers, and even tailoredclothing. Pinwale corduroy in acotton/cashmere blend is HugoBoss’s top dog this season, whilecashmere kingpin BrunelloCucinelli prefers brushed corduroyfor his collection of quilted coats.
OUT OF THE DESERT Few items in aman’s wardrobe have ever beenmore luxurious than a camel topcoat. Now that familiar topper—astaple of 1930s and 1940sHollywood royalty—has been rein-terpreted in everything from carcoats and high-waisted trousers tosportcoats and even full camel hair(or colored) suits. Designers asdiverse as Hermès, GiorgioArmani, Tom Ford andErmenegildo Zegna offered just apreview of the full camel stampedeto come this winter.
TECHNO? TECH YES! RememberZegna’s imaginative I Jacket withits built-in touch control panel atthe cuff, allowing one to interfacewith his iPod without touching it?Or how about Loro Piana’s innova-tive Storm System technology,which renders even the most opu-lent fabrics like superfine wool andcashmere water repellent? Thosebrilliant ideas have come full circleand spawned a whole generation ofhigh tech, high style garments.Whether it’s a polyester and nylonjacket that actually breathes as thetemperature rises, or a top coatdesigned with touch technologythat lets you hide your electronicsand control them remotely, thisseason, it’s high style to wearsomething high tech.
Technicallyspeaking... Thiswool and down
jacket offersThermore
insulation andtaped seams for
waterproofperformance.
THIS SEASON, IT’S HIGH STYLE TO WEARSOMETHING HIGH TECH.>>
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12
ward
robe 1941
Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese FalconDetective Sam Spade: cunningsleuth, dapper dresser
1962Sean Connery in Dr. NoA rare casual moment for 007, who dons a tuxedomore often than not. Whatever the occasion, hisfirearm (in this case, a Smith & Wesson CentennialAirweight) is never far from sight.
1974Robert Redford in The Great GatsbyRalph Lauren outfitted the entirecast for the movie adaptation ofF. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel.
1959Cary Grant in North by Northwest Proof positive that youcan still look put togetherand polished while runningfrom the bad guys.
70 YEARS OF CINEMATIC STYLE BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE
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1980John Belushi and Dan Akroyd in TheBlues Brothers
1994Jim Carrey and JeffDaniels in Dumb and Dumber
2007Rowan Atkinsonin Mr. Bean’sHoliday
SUITS CAN’T SAVE YOU NOWTHESE MEMORABLE MOVIE GOOFBALLSPROVE THAT YOU CAN DRESS THEM UP, BUTYOU CAN’T TAKE THEM OUT.
1987Michael Douglas in Wall StreetFat ties—and fat wallets—epitomized the1980s. The pleated pants popular thenare just starting to reappear on runways,but haven’t yet made it mainstream.
2001George Clooney and Brad Pitt inOcean’s ElevenUnbuttoned elegance as the bigscreen’s most charismatic criminals
1992The cast of Reservoir DogsThese guys were ahead of the trend in slim suits and ties.
2011The cast of The Adjustment BureauWhile overcoats and fedoras are classics,the style in multiples is downrightintimidating. These men mean business!
1980Richard Gere in American GigoloArmani became a household nameafter outfitting gigolo Julian in hissignature suits.
RUB Wardrobe_Mens Fashion in Film .qxp:Wardrobe 7/18/11 2:58 PM Page 13
y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans inthe world; that’s still our mission today,” assertsAgave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eightjeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a recordfor us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired
from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back asdesigner of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused onUSA-made quality product.”
How do you compete with bigger brands?I knew the secret of making the best jeans was inthe denim. I found the best denims from boutiquemills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partner-ing with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with pro-duction and laundry in L.A. that made jeans forLevi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentical-
ly and accurately. Agave stands for the highestquality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers
know this and appreciate our commitment.
How tough is it to work with your spouse?I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Twocompanies ago we started working together: I was theowner and she was doing production. We hit tough timesand had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me
to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. Ifound my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get
her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, ourson Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t
compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.
We have the same taste level but complementary skills. Weshare values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.
What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011?The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo,black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excite-ment is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocketmodels, washed down to a beautiful patina.
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Above: Jeff andLauren ShaferLeft: Items fromAgave’s men’sand women’s fallcollections
A DECADE OF AGAVE
AUGUST 2012 WILLMARK THE 10-YEAR
ANNIVERSARY OFAMERICA’S COOLEST
DENIM. BY KARENALBERG GROSSMAN
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for
there is only
5038 W. Esplanade Avenue, Metairie, LA 70006 | 504.455.5705COMPLIMENTARY PICKUP AND DELIVERY
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Fall 2011 has us dreamingabout texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft waysto stay warm this fall...
life is but a
PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio Kurhajek | STYLING: Wendy McNett | HAIR & MAKEUP: Claire Bailey
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DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM AAAAAAAAAAAAA LLLLLLLLLLLLLLIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTLLLLLLLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEEEEE DDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM OOOOOOOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF.........
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WHYSTYLE MATTERSMaking a good impressionhas never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier!
Studies show that well-dressed men
get higher paying jobs, enjoy better
social status and are more attractive to
the opposite sex.
Here are some simple tips on how
to spruce up your look, because
yes, style matters!
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BUILDING A GREATWARDROBE IS SIMPLERTHAN YOU THINK.
WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL
FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS)
CAN BE BUILT.
1. Dressy Casual 2. Sartorial 3. Sporty Casual
simple updates forall your modes...
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Plaid ClassicA great neutral
plaid adds instant
style to jeans and
moves gracefully
from offi ce to
dinner.
Color StatementA bolder plaid
in rich fall colors
adds excitement
to solid basics
and layers well
with sweaters.
THE ESSENTIAL SPORTCOATTHE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL
Dressy Casual
No single item is more effective in transforming
a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes
a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and
concealing all the right body parts...
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UnconstructedA soft, unlined
jacket is an
indispensible
basic this season.
It looks casually
elegant and fi ts like
a second skin!
CollegiateCorduroyToasty warm and
versatile, corduroy
has come back
with a vengeance.
Soft CashmereUnconstructed
and elegant, it
works with dress
pants, jeans and
everything in
between.
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The IntellectualAdd a sweater
to a windowpane
wool suit for a
super smart look.
The Young TurkA well-cut dark
suit can take you
everywhere... and
a great wool tie is
an easy way
to add some
personality.
The PlayerA fun shirt (without
a tie) with an open
suit jacket is a
refreshing
upgrade
to jeans.
Sartorial
FITThe New
Slimmer
Silhouette
is here
to stay
From a fi rst interview to the corner offi ce,
one properly fi tting neutral suit in a transitional
fabric is an essential basic for the well-
dressed man.
(NEW)
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The StatesmanHerringbone in
warm fall tones
plus a buttoned
vest spells
confi dence.
The MogulNavy pinstripe
suit, blue shirt,
red tie, slim cut...
need we say
more?
whichSUITSyou?
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Sporting Event With ClientA quilted, fi tted,
double-breasted
jacket is as warm
as it is fl attering.
Weekend OutingCold, blustery
days can be faced
in style with an
elegant update to
the classic parka.
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Soccer SidelinesThrow a great
scarf over a
versatile pullover
and be the
best looking
dad on the fi eld.
Country DriveGo antiquing and
lunching in style in
a chocolate suede
driving jacket,
also perfect for
everyday.
Sporty Casual
RELAXEDSTYLE
Whether it’s
the weekend,
or you just
want it to
feel that way.
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COLD COMFORTA
s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time forwinter sports, a cozy new coat and aheart-warming cocktail. After ice skating,
cross country skiing or snowshoeing at theLake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondackmountains, guests keep out the chill with thehotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. BartenderLori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater,shares the recipe for this snug concoction.Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz.Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of NewYork State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mixvodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrupin a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fash-ioned glass. Top with cream and garnish witha mint leaf. Cheers!L
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Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
GREEK REVIVALA
few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slightrise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene isquiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi
monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brillianttuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member ofHistoric Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from theoriginal dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditionalCretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as iftime had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.
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COUNTRY CHICI
n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eight-room house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel JohnBowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s
the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection ofEnglish and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular withantiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) toshop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, JayneThompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’sRestaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients andpaired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning diningroom filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-centu-ry Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with EnglishIronstone china.
GILT TRIPA
long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing,guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot ofthe Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for
the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauf-feured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted choco-lates and a bottle of Champagne are provided),which brings you to the Money Museum. Here,caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, whereover $20 million dollars worth of paper money andrare coins, including the most comprehensive col-lection of American gold coinage in existence, isstored. Between courses, the curator of the muse-um joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminatesat the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef RémyFünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.
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A STRETCH OF BEACHA
mong the many trendy—and usually pricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish eventthat’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, resi-
dents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and firsttimers alike, can join certified instructors for “BeachYoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate SouthBeach insider happening, which attracts vacationingBroadway stars and fashion editors, among others, hasbeen meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for thepast 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend anhour reaching new horizons. D
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Green visions abound in thegardenscapes of the Dublincountryside. By David Lyon
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When filmmakers want to evoke the formal lush countrysideof Georgian Ireland or the mythical Celtic landscape of dap-pled glades, they train their cameras on Powerscourt Estate,one of the greenest corners of the Emerald Isle. Set onDublin’s doorstep in County Wicklow, the gated lands origi-nally surrounded a 13th-century castle that helped guardthe city. In 1731, the lord of Powerscourt upgraded to theiconic Georgian manor that still occupies the high ground,gazing across a rich array of gardens and over a small laketo the hunched backs of the Wicklow Mountains.
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For full immersion in the lifestyleof latter-day Irish gentry, retire tothe Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt,where you can nurse a tumbler ofTyrconnell single-malt Irishwhiskey on the terrace. The 200-room resort opened in 2007 and isjust a five-minute saunter from thePowerscourt manor. Its statelyPalladian architecture andGeorgian-inspired décor are com-plemented by the sybaritic ESPAspa and invisible (but indispensa-ble) contemporary technology.
Concierges can advise guests onthe best woodland hikes and runsand provide maps and electronickeys to the hidden, gated parts ofthe estate. They can also arrangehorseback riding through thecountryside, golf on either ofPowerscourt’s two 18-hole courses,or fly fishing for sea-run trout onthe River Dargle.
Dublin is only a half hour away,making it possible to combine therustic pleasures of the Irish coun-tryside with the urban rush of theIrish capital. It’s worth making apilgrimage to the august neo-Gothic grounds of Trinity Collegeto see the Book of Kells displayedin the library. Created in the 9thcentury, this stunning volume ofthe Gospels is one of the earliestsurviving illuminated manuscriptsand an Irish national treasure.
The Irish also treasure the out-sized personalities of their artists.At the National Gallery of Ireland,one section is dedicated to theYeats clan: portraitist John ButlerYeats and his sons, poet and some-times painter William Butler Yeatsand modern Expressionist master
Jack Yeats. The gallery backs ontoMerrion Square, one of Dublin’sfinest Georgian squares, whererows of elegant townhouses aredistinguished by differently col-ored doors and hand-burnished
brass fixtures. Oscar Wilde lived at1 Merrion Square from 1855 to1876, and should you wonderwhere he wet his whistle, a goodbet might be O’Donoghue’s, a pubestablished in 1792 only a blockaway. The barkeeps still pull a finepint of Guinness, and the room isfamous for its nightly live music.
The Ritz-Carlton has its ownpub, McGills, where the AlbaquirkyTurkeys play a driving version oftraditional Irish music. The resort’sgastronomic jewel, though, is itscasual fine-dining restaurant,Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt,the London-based chef’s first Irishventure. Conceived as a farm-to-fork venue relying intensely onIrish products, the restaurant pro-vides a literal taste of the country-side in a country about the size ofWest Virginia. The lamb is raisedless than 20 minutes away, thevegetables come from an organicfarm a mile down the road. As forthe mushrooms, the kitchen staffforages them in the woods andmeadows of Powerscourt.
Previous page: The 19th-centuryPepperpot Towerwas modeled on
a peppermillbelonging to the
seventh ViscountPowerscourt,
Mervyn Wingfield.This page, top: A
fountain inWalled Garden at
PowerscourtGardens
Center: GordonRamsay’s County
Wicklow lambwith potato
galette Bottom: The
Mountain ViewSuite at Ritz-
CarltonPowerscourt
YOU COULD SPEND DAYS AT POWERSCOURT SAVORING THE IRISH GENIUS FORLANDSCAPE GARDENING OR WANDERING LIKE MYTHIC KING FERGUS IN THE GENTLEWILDS OF THE WOODLANDS AND MEADOWS OF THE 1,000 ACRE ESTATE.
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arlier this year, an exhibit called Guitar Heroes: LegendaryCraftsmen from Italy to New York opened at theMetropolitan Museum of Art. Featured were the handcraftedguitars of three 20th-century Italian-American master crafts-men: John D’Angelico, James D’Aquisto and JohnMonteleone, who from workshops in NYC sought to carry onthe traditions of centuries-old European masters.
In preserving these age-old techniques, these craftsmen haveinspired a new generation. Among the best, Jens Ritter is a young Germanluthier from the quiet village of Deidesheim, near the RhineRiver in the heart of Germany’s wine country.
Ritter, who pro-duces 50 to 60 instru-ments a year with thehelp of a single skilledassistant, introduced his firstbass guitars in 1995. They causedan immediate sensation based on theirsheer beauty, innovative designs andremarkable sound. The exquisitelines and symmetry of his instru-
ments are simply breathtaking; his fertile imagination has yieldeddesigns from medieval to futuristic. Add in the warmth and beauty ofexotic hardwoods and other natural materials (sometimes even preciousgemstones!) or the stark high-tech sleekness of mixed synthetics, and it’sclear why Ritter’s guitars are coveted by top players (George Benson, PhilLesh, Josh Dunham) around the world.
We recently caught up with Ritter, who was in New York City to to see the GuitarHeroes exhibit at the Met and for this exclusive interview with Forum magazine.
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LIKE FINE CUSTOM CLOTHING,A GUITAR BY JENS RITTER IS ONE-OF-A-KIND, HANDCRAFTED, STEEPEDIN TRADITION. BY BILL WEISS
GUITAR HERO
Known as theGermanStradivari, JensRitter pushesthe limits ofhis craft.
icons
“I’M NOT KNOWN FOR FOLLOWING RULES; IPREFER TO EXPERIMENT WITH NEW IDEAS.”
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How did you get started?I played bass in a band as ateenager and was never happywith the instruments. I didn’t havethe money to buy an expensivebass guitar so I tried to modifyparts of my instrument to make itbetter, like changing the electron-ics and eventually cutting and saw-ing the body to change the shapeand weight and maybe improve theergonomics. Eventually I was ableto buy some high quality wood andspent lots of time designing andbuilding my own bass. It helpedthat my grandfather was a wood-worker who taught me how to han-dle wood and treat wood surfaces.
What makes your instru-ments so special?They’re super custom-made butwithin aesthetic limits, kind of likea custom suit. I’m not knownfor following traditional rulesand I love to pursue newdesigns, try new woods,experiment with new sur-faces. Sometimes I’ll try devel-oping a new instrument formyself or to demonstrate at atrade show, and the responsemight lead to new ideas.
Are your instruments art?Once considered a functional tool,the guitar is now a huge culturalsymbol, a valued entity in itself.Years back, the guitar heroes werethe musicians who played theinstruments, not the craftsmen whodesigned and built them. Think ofJimi Hendrix: He’d pour lighterfluid on his guitar and burn it onstage, like he did in 1967 at thefamous Monterey Pop Festival.Today those guitars are famous ontheir own; even burned ones havesold for hundreds of thousands of
dollars, just so someone can hangthem on their wall as a holy relic.What was once a simple tool of themusician has evolved into function-al art, achieving its own identity asa cultural symbol.
I’m very gratified that mydesigns are perceived as art at thesame time they’re played on stagesall over the world. On occasion,I’ve sold instruments to art collec-tors and museums for display only.
What are you working onthese days?I’m mostly filling orders from thetrade shows in L.A. and Frankfurt,but I’m also developing a new gui-tar model scheduled for release inJanuary 2012, and creating a newsignature six-string bass guitar forThe Grateful Dead’s Phil Lesh.
What’s the best part of yourwork?To be immersed in inter-
national culture isan incredible blessing. To possiblyinfluence it—now that’s intense!
Above: A colorful
example ofRitter’s more
outrageous side Below: Mary J.Blige is one ofmany celebrity
clients.
I’M VERY GRATIFIED THAT MY DESIGNS ARE PERCEIVED AS ART AT THESAME TIME THEY’RE PLAYED ON STAGES ALL OVER THE WORLD.”
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e live in an excit-ing time when itcomes to drinks.The so-calledCocktailRevolution, invok-ing premium spir-its, fresh ingredi-
ents and careful measures, hasevolved beyond trendy neo-
speakeasies to rooftop lounges andnightclubs. But this revolution isalso an evolution, for ‘round thecorner, another intrepid bartenderis crafting the next big drink.
Organic Ingredients: Five years ago,only a handful of organic spiritsexisted. Today there are organictequilas, vodkas, single malts, bit-
ters, even sake. “To get USDA cer-tification is very hard,” says HenrySiedel of Chikurin, the onlyJapanese sake to hold that distinc-tion. Not only does the rice need tobe grown sans pesticides, but irri-gation floodwaters from neighbor-ing farms have to be gunk-free aswell. In most cases, you’re doingmore to protect the environment
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FASTER THAN YOU CAN ORDER A MANHATTAN, ANOTHER COCKTAILTREND AWAITS YOU. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
CUTTING-EDGECOCKTAILS
This may seem like an ordinarygin and tonic, but it features of-the-moment bar trends likehand-cracked Kold Draft ice,fresh small-bottle tonic, andtrendy Copa glassware.
spiri
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THIS REVOLUTION ISALSO AN EVOLUTION,
FOR ‘ROUND THECORNER, ANOTHER
INTREPID BARTENDERIS CRAFTING THE NEXT
BIG DRINK.
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than your own body. But still, whoneeds Monsanto in their Mojito?
Says Paul Abercrombie, authorof Organic, Shaken and Stirred(Harvard Common Press, 2009):“People [should] care about what’sin their glass, the same way theycare about what’s on their plate.”
Aged Cocktails: The hottest geektrend of 2011: mixing up batches ofclassic cocktails, dropping theminto used whiskey barrels or othercontainers, and aging for severalweeks. Jeffrey Morgenthaler, barmanager at Portland’s ClydeCommon, is widely credited forkicking off the trend in the U.S.
Aging a cocktail does the samething as aging whiskey or tequila:“The edges are softened, but not ina way that makes the drink seemflabby,” says Morgenthaler.
“Anything with vermouth or forti-fied wine will be lightly oxidizedand gain earthy notes that lend a lotof depth.” A second- or third-usebarrel, like a bourbon or sherry cask,will also influence the final drink.
You’ll find aged cocktails in top-tier bars around the country,including the Boxcar Bar (Austin),
Girl & The Goat (Chicago), GrantHotel (San Diego, where guestscan purchase aged cocktails by thebottle), and Summit Bar(Manhattan). London’s Artesianbar, meanwhile, is mashing two hottrends by offering barrel-aged MaiTais featuring clarified lime juice.
Act quickly if you hear of a newbarrel being tapped at yourfavorite watering hole: Innovativebatches can be drained in a singlenight by thirsty fans.
Farm-to-Bar: As in the restaurantworld, bartenders are hot on local,farm-fresh ingredients. “Guestslove a drink with a homegrownangle,” says Evan Powell, themixologist for Fish restaurant inCharleston, SC. “I grow about adozen herbs, including chocolatemint, lemon thyme and shiso.” AtIdaho’s Shore Lodge in McCall, thestaff picks wild huckleberries formixologist John Wood’shuckleberry mojito. Meanwhile, inSan Francisco, the Fairmont israising its own honeybees andusing the fresh honey in cocktails.And Murf Reeves at New Orleans’Sylvain puts his 15 years as a cook
to good use behind the bar,emphasizing regional foodpairings with mixed drinks.
House-Made Mixers: “Bitters is one ofthe three major components ofclassic cocktails,” says James Leeof Boulder, CO’s Bitter Bar. Theonce-ubiquitous astringent infu-sions are now used mostly toenhance aromas in cocktails. “Youcan’t really substitute forAngostura or Peychaud’s wherethey’re called for, but otherwise,the sky’s the limit.” Lee and histeam make their own bitters usingingredients like Japanese five-spice, grapefruit and (in season)Rainier cherry bitters. At the newLexington Social House in L.A.,you’ll find house-made yuzu, laven-der and orange bitters, along withThai chili-infused simple syrupand even their own version of PopRocks to rim glasses.
For the new Theater Bar in NewYork City, owner/bartender AlbertTrummer takes the house-madeconcept to new heights. The barmakes all its own liqueurs, tinc-tures, bitters and more, co-createdwith a doctor versed in homeo-pathic medicine. “Cordials thathave artificial colorings and sweet-eners sit on your liver, along withthe alcohol,” says Theater bar-tender Duane Fernandez. “At theend of the day, even with cocktails,you want the most natural productyou can have in your body.”
What’s coming up next? We’realready witnessing single filteredvodkas that actually have flavor,craft distilleries in almost everystate, and 18th-century punchbowls that seduce scenesters anddrinkers alike. Drop in to yourfavorite bar to discover what yourown Mad Mixologist is concocting.
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Both complexpunch bowls andobscure Europeandigestifs takecenter stage incocktails at manyof the trendiestbars around thecountry.
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SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERSTO LIFE’S QUESTIONSAREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN.THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET.BY JAMES RARUS
A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm,used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is?You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. Iplay menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate,though I’m not a doctor.
Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants filltheir shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, trans-forming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxu-ry. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, theclothes he pulls out each morning helping to determineif people will buy into his personality, business acumen,credibility, or whatever he’s selling.
I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneledcloset. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenlyspaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows,his belts and ties were arranged meticulously.
I thought about this client, a bachelor with a highfinance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair,beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters!Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect speci-men, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics,and not one cashmere knit!
I looked around his spectacular apartment with itsexpansive views of Central Park and envisioned thewomen he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceivedwardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud.
Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favoritestore as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazzsong with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensionsto help showcase your own unique qualities.
Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this musicmetaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen two-and four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in mas-culine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is nowbalanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks,V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces nowdouble as sportswear. His love life has improved, too:wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knitcardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams.
When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say,“I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that whenthey get dressed each day, they’re energized andinspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think toomuch! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”
CLOSET THERAPY
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