A1960

GROWING CURRANTS,GOOSEBERRIES, &

ELDERBERRIES IN WISCONSIN

Ribes nigrum

T E R Y L R . R O P E R , D A N I E L L . M A H R , P A T R I C I A S . M C M A N U S

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SITE SELECTION ANDPREPARATIONGooseberries, currants, and elderberries prefercool moist locations; they will not thrive in hotdry places. They can be grown in partially shadedareas but should have good air circulation aroundthe plants to reduce leaf and fruit disease prob-lems. Soils high in organic matter are ideal forthese crops. Do not plant in poorly drained areaswhere water stands for more than a day.

If possible, obtain a soil test before planting.Procedures for soil sampling and submitting sam-ples for testing are outlined in Extension publica-tion Sampling Lawn and Garden Soils for Soil Testing(A2166), which is available through your countyExtension office. Apply and incorporate any phos-phorus or potassium recommended from the soiltest the fall before planting.

Eliminate quackgrass and other troublesomeperennial weeds by frequent cultivation or use ofnon-residual herbicides such as glyphosate theseason before planting. Before using any herbi-cide, read the package label to make sure the cropyou intend to treat is listed.

In the fall or early spring before planting, thor-oughly mix additional organic matter with thesoil. Well-rotted manure, compost, granulatedpeat, or other partially decomposed organic mat-ter are beneficial.

SOURCES OF PLANTSBecause of limited demand, recommended goose-berry, currant, and elderberry cultivars may bedifficult to obtain. One-year-old plants are best;older plants can be used but are often less vigor-ous and not as desirable. Check reliable mail-order nurseries for availability. For sources ofthese plants, see Extension publication Home FruitCultivars for Northern Wisconsin (A2488) or HomeFruit Cultivars for Southern Wisconsin (A2582).

If you wish to start your own plants from anearby source, currants, gooseberries, and elder-berries are easily propagated from cuttings or bylayering. These procedures are discussed inExtension publication Home Propagation Techniques(NCR274). These plants do not come true fromseed and must be vegetatively propagated.

Currants are usually propagated from hardwoodcuttings. In winter or early spring, take cuttings 6to 8 inches long from the matured dormantgrowth of the previous season. Store cuttings in

Currants, gooseberries,& elderberries are native to Wisconsin woodlands,

fence rows, and fields. Fruit of these lesser known crops areoften harvested from the wild and are prized for makingjams, jellies, pies, and juice. Elderberries are sometimes used

in home winemaking. These crops are generallyhardy enough to be grown in all areas of Wisconsin

and are well adapted for home fruit plantings. A limitednumber of improved cultivars are available from nurseries.

moist peat moss or sand in a refrigerator or otherlocation cold enough to prevent growth. Do notstore in a home freezer.

In early spring, plant the cuttings 6 to 8 inchesapart in rows with the top two or three budsabove the soil. Press soil firmly around the cut-tings and water lightly and frequently. Rootedcuttings often can be transplanted in the springfollowing one season’s growth.

Gooseberries can also be propagated by cut-tings but are well adapted to layering. To layerplants, bend down low-growing branches inearly spring, pin the branches in place with ahooked wire or weight, and cover them with 2 to3 inches of soil. Leave the base and tips of thebranches exposed. Branches will usually rootwell in one season and can be cut from the plantand transplanted the following spring. Rooting oflayered branches is generally enhanced by cover-ing the soil with sawdust or granulated peat toretain moisture.

Elderberries are easily propagated by cuttingsas described for currants. In early spring take 10-to 12-inch cuttings from live portions of the pre-vious season’s growth and plant them 10 to 12inches apart in rows, leaving the top budexposed. Firm soil around cuttings and water asneeded to retain a moist, not soggy, medium forrooting. Cuttings can be transplanted to perma-nent locations early the following spring.

PLANTING AND SPACINGIn Wisconsin, spring planting is preferred forgooseberries, currants, and elderberries. Set dor-mant plants as soon as they are received from thenursery, or transplant them directly from thepropagation bed. Before planting, remove dam-aged or broken roots or stems and cut back thetop portions to 8 to 10 inches, depending on thesize of the root system. Plant with the lowestbranch at or just below the soil line. Water thor-oughly after planting to settle the soil around theroots, and water weekly thereafter if rainfall isinadequate.

Space currants and gooseberries 3 to 4 feet apartin rows 6 to 8 feet apart. Elderberries should bespaced 7 to 8 feet apart in rows 10 to 12 feet apartto allow cultivation and air circulation in plantings.

POLLINATIONCurrants and gooseberries are self-fruitful. Crosspollination with other cultivars is not essential.Elderberries are essentially self-unfruitful. Two ormore cultivars should be planted near each otherto provide for cross-pollination to ensure goodfruit set.

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FIGURE 1. Plant spacing for currants andgooseberries

3'–4'

6'–8'

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SUGGESTED CULTIVARSSince only a limited number of nurseries propa-gate currants, gooseberries, or elderberries, thecultivars suggested here are chosen on the basisof availability as well as their characteristics ofgood yield, fruit quality, and hardiness. Otherunlisted cultivars may also perform satisfactorilyin a home planting. The home fruit grower mayfind testing of other cultivars to be fun and inter-esting if time and space permits.

CurrantsWilder. Vigorous, red-fruited cultivar; moder-ately hardy and produc-tive. Berries aresomewhat larger than RedLake. Ripens beginning inearly July.

Red Lake. Vigorous,hardy, productive cultivar.Fruit is large, bright red whenmature, and of good quality.Mild flavor. Ripens over a 3-weekperiod beginning in early July.

White Imperial. An older cultivar. White,translucent fruit with pink blush is borne in looseclusters. Very rich, sweet flavor better than redcurrants. Winter hardy. Ripens mid-July.

GooseberriesHinnonmaki Red.

A European gooseberry. Fruitis large, purplish red, andsweet. The canes are mod-

erately vigorous, but arevery spiny. For trial.

Poorman. Hardy andmoderately productive.Red fruit is the largest ofany American type.

Somewhat less thornythan most cultivars.

Pixwell. Hardy and moderately productive.Medium-sized fruit is pink and mild flavoredwhen mature.

ElderberriesAdams. Both Adams No. 1 and Adams No. 2 aresuitable. Very large fruit compared tonative plants. Plant is 8 feet tall,vigorous, with strong canes.Considered hardy. Ripensearly August.

Johns. Exceptionally vig-orous plant, growing 6 to10 feet tall. Less productivethan Adams, but fruit and fruit clus-ters are larger. Moderately hardy. Ripens 10 to 14days after Adams.

Nova. An outstanding cultivar. Fruit is large andsweet. Plant is 6 feet tall, moderately hardy, andvery productive. Use York as pollinizer. Ripens inAugust, before York. Originated in Nova Scotia.

York. More productive than Adams cultivarsand as hardy. Largest berry of all cultivars; juicy,sweet, purplish black. Excellent 6-foot-tall orna-mental with white flowers, black fruit, andshowy fall foliage. Last to ripen in mid- to lateAugust.

FERTILIZERIf the site was prepared properly and phosphorusand potassium were added based on the soil test,no additional phosphorus or potassium fertilizershould be required. Currants, gooseberries, andelderberries will benefit from applications ofnitrogen. Young plants should receive 1 to 2tablespoons of a high nitrogen fertilizer likeammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, or ureaannually in the spring. Older plants shouldreceive 3 to 4 tablespoons of high nitrogen fertil-izer in the spring. Nitrogen can also be suppliedby aged manures.

You can judge the need for fertilizer by looking atthe bush. If the bush is very vigorous, producinga lot of new growth, reduce the nitrogen by half

or eliminate it altogether. If growth is moderatebut the plants still appear thrifty, apply the rec-ommended amount. If few new canes are pro-duced and growth appears poor, increase nitro-gen application by half. For more detailedfertilizer use suggestions, refer to Extension pub-lication Fertilizing Small Fruits in the Home Garden(A2307).

PRUNINGGrowth and fruiting habit of currants and goose-berries are similar. Thus, pruning practices areessentially the same for both.

Prune when plants are dormant—usually in earlyspring just before growth begins. Wherever pos-sible while pruning currants and gooseberries,remove canes drooping on the soil or caneswhich shade the center of the plant. After the firstseason of growth, remove all but six to eight ofthe most vigorous shoots from currants andgooseberries. After the second season, retain fouror five 1-year-old shoots and three or four2-year-old canes. Following the third season,keep three or four canes each of 1-, 2-, and3-year-old wood. When plants have finished thefourth season, remove all 4-year-old canes, andrepeat the renewal process annually as describedabove for the third season.

With elderberries simply prune out weak or bro-ken canes, leaving six to eight vigorous canes to aplant.

Old neglected currant, gooseberry, and elder-berry plants can be renovated by removing oldcanes and thinning out newer shoot growth toinitiate the sequence described for new plantings.Mature gooseberry and currant plants shouldhave eight to ten bearing canes and four to sixnew shoots to replace the oldest canes removedeach year. Six to eight mature canes to a plant aregenerally adequate for elderberries.

WEED MANAGEMENTCurrants, gooseberries, and elderberries do notcompete well with weeds. Weed managementbegins by controlling perennial weeds beforeplanting the bushes. After planting, frequentshallow cultivation will keep weeds out of theplanting. Grasses are particularly competitiveand must be controlled.

Mulches will aid in suppressing weeds as well asretaining soil moisture. Suitable mulches includeshredded bark, bark chips, wood chips, sawdust,compost, straw, or lawn clippings. Applymulches 3 to 4 inches deep around the plants.Time of application is not critical, but check the

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FIGURE 2. Pruning currants and gooseberries

Before After

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mulch depth annually and replenish the mulch asneeded. Don’t get mulches too deep or you’ll cre-ate a habitat for rodents.

Grass can be planted in the aisles between therows. A grass walkway will let you harvest fruitfollowing rains. Cultivate along the grass edgesto keep the grass from invading the bushes.

INSECT PESTS OF CURRANTSAND GOOSEBERRIESUnder most conditions insects are not perenniallyserious pests of currants and gooseberries.However, certain insects occasionally willbecome abundant enough to cause serious dam-age if left unmanaged.

Currant aphidThis insect overwinters in the egg stage on plantstems. Eggs hatch in early spring, and the insectsfeed by sucking out the plant juices, whichresults in stunted and distorted new growth. Asleaves continue to develop they will be crinkled,with down-turned edges. Areas between veins onthe upper leaf surface may be reddened. As theaphids feed, they excrete excess sugar and water

in small droplets called honeydew. Ants mayfeed on the honeydew, and a black fungus—sooty mold—often grows on it. The aphids them-selves are small (up to about 2 mm) and green,and usually are found in colonies. Other aphidspecies also occasionally feed on currants andgooseberries.

Aphids are often kept under good natural controlby predators such as lady beetles and lacewings,small parasitic wasps, and even some insect dis-eases. In some areas or during certain years,these natural controls may not be adequate, andyou may choose to use a chemical spray.Dormant sprays are effective, as is malathion orrotenone applied when the aphids are first seen.Insecticidal soap is also effective, but spray cov-erage must be thorough.

Currant borerThe damaging stage of this insect is a pale, yel-low, worm-like larva, which tunnels through thepith of the cane. A member of the family calledclear-winged moths, the wasp-like adult lays itseggs on the canes in early June. After hatching,the worm enters the cane and feeds all season. Itoverwinters in the larval stage in the cane,

FIGURE 3. Pruning elderberries

Before After

emerging as the adult moth the following spring.Feeding damage will kill the cane, and the firstsymptom is yellowing foliage on individualcanes in late spring. Red currants are most fre-quently attacked.

Cut out and destroy infested canes as early aspossible.

Imported currant wormThis is the most serious insect pest of currantsand gooseberries, with the latter being thefavored host. Foliage is consumed by severalsmall, spotted, caterpillar-like larvae. The adultsare sawflies about the size of a house fly. Thereare two generations per year, with damage occur-ring in spring and again in late summer.

Malathion and rotenone will control this insect.Start looking for damage shortly after the leaveshave fully expanded. Usually the second genera-tion is less severe than the first and does notrequire treatment.

Currant stem girdlerThese adult sawflies make numerous puncturesin canes during egg laying in spring. The damagecauses new shoots to droop and wilt in latespring. Further damage occurs as the larvae tun-nel through the canes. This insect also attackspoplar and willow trees, and damage is usuallymore severe near stands of these trees.

The best control is the removal and destruction ofinfested canes at the first sign of wilting.

Fourlined plant bugThis insect is yellowish green with four darkstripes on the back. It is quite active, and it runsand flies readily. It feeds by sucking plant juicesfrom leaves and young stem growth. Damage toyoung leaves results in deformed and brownfoliage. Older leaves will be spotted with manytiny light spots. This insect feeds on numerous

wild hosts and damage is seen most frequentlywhen such plants are allowed to grow near cur-rants and gooseberries.

In areas where plant bugs have been a problem,they can be controlled by an early-season appli-cation of malathion.

Gooseberry fruitwormThe larval stage of this insect is a greenish wormwith darker stripes along the sides. The wormsfeed by hollowing out the insides of fruit of bothcurrants and gooseberries, with each worm con-suming several berries. The adult is a moth.

Malathion or rotenone will control this insect.Make two applications 10 days apart, starting atearly fruit development.

Currant fruit flyInfested fruit drops early and has dark spots sur-rounded by a red area. Small white maggots willbe found in such fruit. Late-maturing varietiesare preferred by this insect.

Removal and burial or destruction of droppedfruit will keep populations from building. Theinsecticide program for gooseberry fruitwormwill also control fruit flies.

San Jose scaleThese insects are small, grayish disk-shapedspecks about 2 mm across with a raised spot inthe center. They are most frequently found on thecanes. For most of its life, the scale insect is inca-pable of movement, and merely sits and sucksout the plant juices. Heavily infested plants willhave canes encrusted with scales. In such cases,single canes or even entire plants will be killed.

Dormant sprays of lime sulfur or superior oil willcontrol San Jose scale.

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INSECT PESTS OFELDERBERRIESBecause elderberry is a native plant, there areseveral native insects and mites that feed on it.Although most of these are checked by naturalcontrols, occasionally some plant damage canoccur. Pyrellin, a combination of rotenone andpyrethrins, is registered for controlling several ofthe following elderberry insects.

AphidsCertain species of aphids are occasionally foundfeeding on elderberry. Although feeding maycause stunted and distorted leaves, usually only afew branch tips are involved. If aphids becomenumerous, wash them from the plants with astrong spray of water, prune out and destroy theinfested terminals, or spray with Pyrellin.

Cecropia mothThe larval stage of this insect is a large caterpillarthat can remove much foliage during feeding.They are most abundant near wooded areas.Control by hand removal and destruction.

Elder shoot borerThe larval stage of this insect is a worm thatbores in the stems and shoots. The adult mothlays eggs in July and August in canes at least1 year old. Eggs hatch the following April orMay. The larvae feed first within the unfoldingleaf whorls, then bore into new lateral shoots.When partially grown, they migrate to theground shoots, entering these at the bases andfeeding upwards into the shoots. When the lar-vae are fully grown in mid-June, they leave theground shoots and tunnel into dead canes topupate, leaving small piles of frass (sawdust) onthe ground at the base of the old wood.

To control, prune out infested shoots or canes.Eliminate dead canes to discourage pupation.Remove old canes with holes or with piles offrass at their bases. Destroy all prunings.

DISEASES OF CURRANTSAND GOOSEBERRIESThe most common diseases of currants andgooseberries are caused by fungi. Symptoms offungal diseases include leaf spots, stem cankers,and shoot dieback. Signs of the fungal pathogens,such as fruiting bodies, are often visible wheninfected plants are viewed with a hand lens. Theother major group of pathogens that attack cur-rants and gooseberries are viruses. Typical symp-toms of virus diseases include yellowish to palegreen mosaic patterns on leaves, and malformedor stunted shoots, leaves, and flowers. Viruses donot form fruiting bodies. Fungal diseases aremanaged by pruning to enhance drying offoliage, and removal of prunings and plant debristo reduce primary inoculum. Virus-infectedplants cannot be cured. However, virus-freeplants can be obtained from reputable nurseries.Wild plants in the genus Ribes harbor many ofthe same fungi and viruses that infect cultivatedvarieties and may be reservoirs for pathogens.

Powdery mildewPowdery mildew is a common fungal diseasethat is generally more serious on gooseberry thanon currant. The fungus overwinters in pruned orbroken twigs. In the spring spores are releasedand infect leaves and shoots. Signs of the fungus—white patches on the surface of leaves, shoots,and berries—first appear in May or June onlower parts of the bush. The patches enlarge,merge, and develop white, powdery masses ofspores which can start new infections. Eventuallythe fungus turns reddish-brown and small,spherical, black spore-containing bodies develop.Severe infection will cause stunting and diebackof shoots. Infected berries are off-color and rough.

Powdery mildew infections are favored byhumid conditions. Spacing bushes to enhance airmovement and rapid drying should reduce dis-ease. Removing prunings and other plant debrisin the fall will reduce the amount of fungalinoculum available the following spring. Sulfur-containing fungicides are effective against pow-

dery mildew but can damage plants, especially ifused in hot weather. Repeated applications ofsulfur may also harm beneficial microbes, insects,and earthworms.

AnthracnoseAnthracnose is a common leaf spot disease ofboth currant and gooseberry. The anthracnosefungus overwinters in leaf and twig debris. Onetype of spore (ascospore) is ejected from debrisand carried by air currents to newly emerging tis-sue. A second type of spore (conidium) is splashedby rain to new tissue. Because fungal sporescome from the ground, the first infections of theyear are often on lower parts of the bush. Earlyseason infections produce spores that cause addi-tional infections. Thus, leaf spots occur through-out the season. Spots are dark brown or blackand are scattered over either leaf surface. Spotsenlarge (up to about 1⁄8 inch), become somewhatangular in shape, and sometimes have a purplishborder. Spore masses appear as glistening, gray,slimy droplets under wet, humid conditions. Insome cases, leaves turn yellow with green zonessurrounding the spots. Leaf yellowing is morecommon on gooseberry than on currant.

Spores of the anthracnose pathogen can germi-nate at temperatures between 35° and 82°F,although 40° to 60°F is optimal for ascosporeswhile 55° to 70°F is optimal for conidia. Sporesdo not germinate at temperatures above 85°F, sonew infections do not occur during very hotweather. Moisture is required for infection.

To reduce primary infections, remove pruningsand plant debris in the fall or in the spring beforeplant growth resumes. Copper-containing fungi-cides, such as Bordeaux mixture, are effectiveagainst anthracnose. Lime sulfur is also effectiveand will simultaneously control powdery mildew.

Leaf spotLeaf spot is sometimes called Septoria leaf spot,named for the fungal pathogen. The fungus over-winters on leaves on the ground. Ascospores aredischarged in the spring (usually late May) andinfect leaves. Leaf spots appear by mid-June as

small, dark spots that resemble anthracnoseinfections. However, as the spots enlarge, the cen-ters turn light tan, and the borders turn brown.Small black spore-containing bodies appear scat-tered over the spots. Anthracnose spots do nothave these black, pinpoint-sized fruiting bodies.Under wet conditions, spores are released fromthe bodies and are splashed to leaves where fur-ther infection may occur. Severely infected leavesturn yellow and drop. Leaf drop is more commonwith currant than gooseberry.

Minor diseasesWhite pine blister rust. Plants in the genusRibes, including currant and gooseberry, are hostsfor part of the life cycle of the white pine blisterrust fungus. Black currant is more susceptiblethan red currant. The disease is usually not seri-ous on currant and gooseberry but is devastatingto white pine, the alternate host. Symptoms oncurrant and gooseberry appear in the spring assmall, yellow spots on the undersides of leaves.Spores are shed from the spots and incite newinfections. During late summer and fall, a differ-ent type of spore is formed and is carried up to afew hundred feet to white pine trees. The follow-ing spring, spores are released from white pinesand can be carried up to 350 miles to Ribes plants.Separating currant and gooseberry from whitepine by at least 1,000 feet can reduce infectionsbut is often not practical.

Cane blight. Cane blight is caused by a fungus,and in severe cases can cause entire shoots orbushes to wilt and die. Symptoms are most evi-dent just before fruit ripens. The wood and pithof affected canes are dark. Later in the season oncurrent year’s growth, or on 2-year-old infections,black wartlike bodies form in parallel rows alongthe length of the shoot. Removal of infected caneswill minimize further infections.

Botrytis. Infections by the ubiquitous fungusBotrytis cinerea cause a dark-colored dieback ofshoot tips and gray mold rot of berries. Infectionand disease development are favored by wet,humid weather, especially in low areas with poorair circulation.

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Cluster cup rust. Cluster cup rust producesstriking symptoms on wild Ribes species or inneglected home plantings where sedge, the alter-nate host, is found. Damage is generally minor.The reddish rust is most common on leaf bladesand petioles. The leaf is thickened where the clus-ter cup later appears.

DISEASES OF ELDERBERRIES

Tomato ringspot virusTomato ringspot virus infects a wide range ofplants, including elderberry. The virus is spreadby nematodes in the genus Xiphinema and bypollen transfer. Symptoms are not distinct, butinfected plants are weakened, have reduced pro-ductivity, and may die. Soils should be tested forthe presence of Xiphinema nematodes beforeestablishing a planting of elderberry.

Fungal cankersStem cankers are caused by any of a number ofdifferent fungi that commonly attack woodyplants. If a canker girdles a stem, the tissue abovethe canker will usually die. Conditions that stressplants, such as winter injury, drought, and flood-ing, may predispose plants to infection. Infectedshoots should be removed from a planting to pre-vent further infection.

Other diseasesPowdery mildew fungi attack elderberry, as donumerous leaf-spotting fungi. These diseases sel-dom warrant special attention other than remov-ing as much plant debris as possible in the fall toprevent the pathogens from overwintering. Rootrots may occur in poorly drained soil.Verticillium wilt affects a wide range of plantsincluding elderberry. Plants should not be estab-lished in sites where tomatoes or related plantswere grown during the past 5 years.

RELATED PUBLICATIONSFertilizing Small Fruits in the Home Garden(A2307)

Home Fruit Cultivars for Northern Wisconsin(A2488)

Home Fruit Cultivars for Southern Wisconsin(A2582)

NURSERIESThis list of nurseries is provided as a conveniencefor our readers. It is not an endorsement byExtension, nor is it exhaustive. The plant materi-als listed in this bulletin may be available fromother equally suitable nurseries.

Bear Creek NurseryP. O. Box 411Northport, WA 99157(509) 732-6219

Indiana Berry &Plant Co.5218 W 500SHuntingburg, IN 47542(800) 295-2226

J.W. Jung Seed335 South High StreetRandolph, WI 53957(800) 247-5864

McKay NurseryP.O. Box 185Waterloo, WI 53594(920) 478-2121

Miller Nurseries5060 West Lake RoadCanandaigua, NY 14424(716) 396-2647

St. LawrenceNurseries325 State Highway 345Potsdam, NY 13676(315) 265-6739

Copyright © 1998 by the Board of Regents of the University of Wisconsin System doing business as thedivision of Cooperative Extension of the University of Wisconsin-Extension. Send inquiries about copyrightpermission to: Director, Cooperative Extension Publishing, 201 Hiram Smith Hall, 1545 Observatory Dr.,Madison, WI 53706.

Authors: T.R. Roper is professor of horticulture, D.L. Mahr is professor of entomology, and P.S. McManusis associate professor of plant pathology, College of Agricultural and Life Sciences, University of Wisconsin-Madison and University of Wisconsin-Extension, Cooperative Extension. Produced by Cooperative ExtensionPublishing. Cover illustration by Catherine Baer, copyright 1998.

University of Wisconsin-Extension, Cooperative Extension, in cooperation with the U.S.Department of Agriculture and Wisconsin counties, publishes this information to further the purpose of theMay 8 and June 30, 1914 Acts of Congress; and provides equal opportunities and affirmative action inemployment and programming. If you need this material in an alternative format, contact the Office ofEqual Opportunity and Diversity Programs or call Cooperative Extension Publishing at (608) 262-2655.

This publication is available from your Wisconsin county Extension office or from CooperativeExtension Publishing. To order, call toll free: 877-947-7827 (WIS-PUBS) or visit cecommerce.uwex.edu.

A1960 GROWING CURRANTS, GOOSEBERRIES, AND ELDERBERRIES IN WISCONSIN

RP-07-01-(R12/98)-3M-300

References to products in this publication arefor your convenience and are not an endorse-ment of one product over other similar prod-ucts. You are responsible for using chemicalsaccording to the manufacturer’s current labeldirections. Follow directions exactly to protectthe environment and people from chemicalexposure. Failure to do so violates the law.