T H I R DF L O O R

D I V E R S I T Y ?

T H I R D F L O O R

T F

2 0 1 5I S S U E 8

T H E T E A MEditors-in-Chief

Suzie Norris & Lisa Mann

Sub-EditorAmber Dolley

Project Manager Nadine Mahon

Photographer & Features Editor Catherine Brown

Photographer Amy De Friend

Stylist & Features Editor Rosalyn Stanley

C O N T E N T S

1 2

O N E D I V E R S I T Y: N O W

D I V E R S I T Y G E N D E R L E S S

Miscellaneous D I S A B I L I T Y

F I G H T I N G S P I R I T

C L O S I N G T H E D I V I D E

Strong Willed

SPORT

N E W F A S H I O N

This article explores the creative connections between the two areas of Fashion and Sport. Recent studies have seen an increasing number of collaborations and hybrids, from fashion designers producing collections with sportswear brands to sport personalities heading in the direction of designing their own collections. This article will reveal the complexities and tensions between the two.

Sportswear has become an essential part of any modern day wardrobe. Trainers and tracksuits are often worn more than suits, and high valued textiles are repeatedly being developed for competition to be placed into the high-end category. Fashion V Sport studies the way that sports fashion is changed to make the garments more wearable and how sport and fashion products are consumed, customised and worn. While the ideas behind fashion and sport seem to be frequently at odds, they have influenced each other greatly. High-end fashion features sport inspired clothing and shows how sport companies have worked with fashion designers to add different ideas to their product, such as the collaboration between Kim jones and Umbro.

S P O R T

F A S H I O N

P H O T O G R A P H E R Catherine Brown S T Y L I S T Rosalyn Stanley

M A K E U P Cornelia LapinskaitėM O D E L Xeni Gherzan

W O R D S Catherine Brown

Recently as the role of fashion designers in the sports sector has changed, the simple urge for success has grown more complex. Stella McCartney spoke about how women wisely had to sacrifice style when they took up sport. She asked why they would want to work out in clothes that only came in the colours associated with My Little pony toys.

Stella McCartney launched her first sports line with Adidias where she established a long-term partnership with the corporation in September 2004. The collection titled ‘simply Adidas by Stella McCartney’ has since grown further in the sports world ranging from yoga, tennis to winter sports. Since the launch of her new clothing range she was appointed creative director of the sportswear brands for the 2012 Olympic Team GB in July 2010 where she was held responsible for creating the garments for the athlete’s kit for both national Olympic and Paralympic teams which she quoted:

“As a British fashion designer it is an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be creative director of Team GB as the hosting nation of the London 2012 Olympic games,”

Luckily for the fashion designer this was the first time a high-end designer has had the opportunity to design sportswear for the Olympic games. Since this Stella McCartney has launched her third collection for Adidas where she decided to develop and produce a range of sportswear in her own desired colours of slate grey, dusty pink and inky blue.

“ Sportswear has become an

essential part of any modern

day wardrobe. Trainers and

tracksuits are often worn more

than suits, and high valued

textiles are repeatedly being

developed for competition to

be placed into the high-end

category.

”

Trend forecasters WGSN are the ones that know everything when it comes to new trends. Sports editor Lucesca Holmes talked to A Fashionable Sport about how she believes the sportswear trend was inevitable. ‘Taking into account the increased growth of collaborations taking place between both the sports & fashion industries, the complex & diverse relationship between the two industries has merged & is finding a balanced harmony.’ She goes on to say, ‘Both industries have heavily influenced each other over the past few years, especially witnessed on the catwalks & through designer/sports brand collaborations.

In conclusion to this one of the main similarities between fashion and sport is that they both make every effort they can to please them selves and play around in very different ways. In sport this is shown through the persons body performance, which is meant to be associated with masculinity. Whereas fashion is shown to focus more on the garments and how they work together, over all this shows rivalry between the feminine fashion worlds. It is necessary to stress though that sportswear is for majority of designers just as starting point mesh is elevated to a much higher status and used for elegant bon chic genre day wear looks and statement evening wear outfits. Being caught in a net seems to have an exhilarating liberating effect.

Top Kirsty Ward,

Skirt + trouser set Kirsty Ward,

Shoes River Island

Top + skirt Kirsty Ward,

Necklace Kirsty Ward,

Shoes Topshop

P H O T O G R A P H Y Catherine BrownS T Y L I N G Rosalyn StanleyM A K E U P Cornelia LapinskaiteM O D E L Natalia Ziewiec

G A M E O N Top River Island,

Jumper New Look,

Skirt Zara,

Socks American Apparel,

Trainers Nike

Mesh lends a hand to lace and other sheer fabrics to create see through effects in looks that are strongly inspired by sports-wear. As in sportswear, mesh becomes a second layer that allows games of optic contrasts with different colours or fabrics for unexpected chromatic and textured effects when changed when the wearer moves.

It is necessary to stress though that sportswear is for majority of designers just as starting point mesh is elevated to a much higher status and used for elegant bon chic genre day wear looks and statement evening wear outfits. Being caught in a net seems to have an exhilarating liberating effect.

Head sweatband H&M,

Top Topshop,

Leggings Adidas StellaSport,

Bag Adidas StellaSport,

Trainers Nike

P R E V I O U S P A G E

Top Adidas StellaSport

Mesh top H&M

Skirt River Island

Mesh vest Urban Outfitters,

Playsuit Zara,

Sock American Apparel,

Trainers Nike,

Sun visor Nike

Sleeveless jumper Nike,

Dress River Island,

Socks American Apparel,

Trainers Nike

5“

”Being a 5ft 1 and ¾ model is already tough enough on it’s own, but trying to make it into the industry with a disability is a battle. Fighting her way in is 19-year-old Abbie Hills from Southampton, who has Cerebral Palsy but is determined to not let that slow her down.

Cerebral Palsy, a neurological condition caused by problems in the brain and nervous system. The condition occurs before, during or after birth and usually affects muscle flexibility, muscle strength and balance and co-ordination skills. In Abbie’s case her disorder affects specifically the left side of her body and although still at times problematic is relatively mild, she can still stand and walk just not for long periods of time or far distances.

We met up with Abbie in the studios to talk about the daily struggles she has to deal with in order to peruse her passions.

So firstly Abbie what inspired you to start modelling and from what age did this happen? I needed to send off some new headshots to my acting agent so I booked a shoot with Scott Chalmers back when I was 16, I had a make up artist – Sharon Holloway from Vintage Hair Lounge (who I still work with from time to time) The experience was fun but I never thought I would do anything like it again, but then I started networking with people and I gradually started getting more shoots, and my headshots from the shoot turned into my portfolio! I had never thought about modelling at all to be honest but once I got over being nervous I really enjoyed my shoot!

A B B I E H I L L S

F T 1 A N D D I S A B L E D, B U T S T I L L A M O D E L

P H O T O G R A P H E R Nadine MahonS T Y L I S T Rosalyn Stanley

M A K E U P Jenny Higson M O D E L Abbie Hills

Can you talk us through how having cerebral palsy affects you modelling?I find that my condition isn’t usually a problem, but it can be quite restrictive. I see photos of models wearing gorgeous high heels and I get a bit jealous. Once I did a shoot in the forest and it was torrentially raining and I had to wear these huge wedges – I couldn’t walk in them and they were hurting my legs, so the photographer and lighting assistant had to carry me over to this tree so I could lean against it and get the shot that they wanted! My balance is also terrible so I can’t do things like stand on one leg. I also have a bit of a lazy eye on my left side (my affected side), I am always very self-conscious of this worrying that it will show in shots, particularly when the flash has been going off for a long time! Usually after a shoot I go straight home to bed with a hot water bottle for my legs or I dose up on painkillers! I have to keep the next couple of days in my diary free to recover, but I bounce back eventually!

When you are working with a new team for a photo shoot, was everyone understanding of your condition?I always try the best I can to declare my condition to the team prior to a shoot, but sometimes it can be hard to explain and its often easier to physically show them what I can (or can’t) do on a shoot, I try to give everything a go through but I usually need rest breaks and lots of coffee. Everyone is always understanding which makes me feel a lot more comfortable, feeling comfortable when working with new people is important because if you are nervous it really shows in photos!

Do you feel disabled models are represented well in the industry? What would you like to see change?Its great that disabled models are gradually being given a chance to be involved in the industry, however I think that we should all be given the same opportunities as non-disabled models and work alongside them – if we can’t be portrayed in the same way as non-disabled models then the public are never going to get used to the idea of equality between models. If a disabled model was on a billboard people should look at it the same way they would if a non-disabled model was on there! Rather than looking confused or sympathetic – I hate people sympathising with me I would much rather be challenged!

With the recent FTL Moda’s AW15 show at New York Fashion Week, where disabled models and the first male amputee model were featured, do you think we need to see more diverse models on the catwalk and in our magazines?I think if we want people to accept disabled models we need to get out there as much as possible! Obviously I am not saying that we should all be given the spotlight! But I think it would be good for disabled models to be integrated and filtered in to campaigns along side non-disabled models. I think the FTL Moda show was definitely a step in the right direction and hopefully the start of more exposure for disabled models.

What’s the plan for you over the next few years?My plan is to return to university to study a fashion based course, I left part way through my first year as I underestimated how hard uni life would be with my condition. Luckily there are great disability support services and I have had a few months to recharge my batteries so second time lucky! I also plan to continue with modelling and raise awareness for disabled models!

And lastly is there any advice you would give another aspiring model that does not fit into the industry’s conventional criteria?One piece of advice I would give to an aspiring model – one with or without a condition is to know your limits and what you are capable of! There have been a few occasions where I have pushed myself over the edge and really suffered from it for the next few days. So if you don’t feel like you can manage to climb a tree in a bikini and hang from it to get a good shot then don’t do it! The team you are working with will either work round it or find someone who will do it. Also I am a firm believer in good communication between the team prior to a shoot, it makes you all more comfortable with each other and also should you have any problems or conditions you can make it clear from the start!

With recent shows such as FTL Moda’s AW15 show at New York Fashion Week earlier this year, which collaborated with Fondazione Vertical – a foundation funding research to find a cure for spinal cord injuries. This spouts a change in the type of models we are going to be seeing from no on, on our catwalks. Also during NY Fashion Week we saw the first model with Down syndrome featured in Carrie Hammer’s show. The public has been calling for a change for a while and finally we are seeing it. Producer of the FTL Moda show, Ilaria Niccolini commented saying “ this opportunity to finally open the most recognised runways in the world to these beautiful talents, ready to show that disability is very often just a mental state by performing on the runway next to some of the best models on the scene.”

Following suit Tokyo’s Fashion Week was next to feature-disabled models in March, for Takafumi Tsuruta’s label Tenbo. Tsuruta designed easy fastenings on the clothes such as magnetic buttons for easy use, he designs with all types of people in mind, not ruling anyone out. Also in the model line up was a blind Paralympic gold medal swimmer showing off the designs.

In early April this year, a group called Models of Diversity, who campaigns for diversity within the fashion and beauty industries. The group organised a fashion event in London, which featured Gemma Flanagan who was diagnosed with Guillain-Barré Syndrome a condition that affected her nervous system. Gemma commented on how surprisingly confidant she felt as she rolled herself down the catwalk in her wheelchair. Gemma who used to be a model before she was diagnosed with the syndrome, was unsure of how she would cope modelling again in her wheelchair but quoted saying ‘I want to do a lot more suing my chair. I’m in it near enough all of the time now, Part of me doing this show was to embrace myself and embrace the fact that the chair isn’t the enemy anymore.’

With events and shows like these are wonderful and definitely heading in the right direction to gaining more diversity within the fashion industry. However, brands and magazines should intertwine disabled models with regular models and for them all to be seen as equal rather than just having a few rare campaigns featuring disabled models.

Shirt + jumpsuit H&M,

Shoes Bershka

Dress H&M,

Shoes Bershka,

Necklace Topshop

I see photos of models

wearing high heels and I

get a bit jealous.

“”

If a disabled model

was on a billboard

people should look

at it the same way

they would if a non

disabled model was

on there.

Jacket H&M,

Polo neck Warehouse,

Trousers Bershka,

Shoes Bershka

Top H&M

Trousers Bershka

Necklace Stylists own

“

”

U N D E R C O V E R

P H O T O G R A P H Y Amy De Friend S T Y L I S T Rosalyn StanleyM A K E U P Jenny HigsonM O D E L Daniel Ironside

T W O D I V E R S I T Y: F U T U R E

M O D E R N I S M Appearance

C O N T R O L

Distortion S I M P L I C I T Y R E F L E C T I O N

G R A N N Y F L O W E R / M A N P O W E R

Futuristic editorial

P H O T O G R A P H E R Catherine Brown S T Y L I S T Rosalyn Stanley

M A K E U P Sian LidgateM O D E L Ruby Munslow

Grey top H&M,

Top River Island,

Trousers H&M,

Shoes Office,

Sunglasses Topshop,

Headpiece New Look A T E M P O R A L

Adj. existing or considered without relation to time. The future combines the elements of the past and present. Fashion, architecture and design is being transformed into a world of modernity, simplicity and raw edge, Different trims and decorate finishing’s transform the old into the refreshed and new. The futuristic trend displays a new vision that embraces the modern edge of the future. Holographic sky is reliant on the illumination of sunlight on reflective fabrics. It uses the component of transparency to create an array of colours.

Jumper H&M,

Culottes Topshop,

Arm cuffs New Look,

Sunglasses New Look,

Headpiece River Island

Grey Jumper Zara

White top Zara

Skirt H&M

Shoes New Look

Necklace New Look

P R E V I O U S P A G E

Crop top Miss Selfridge,

Skirt New Look,

Rain coat Topshop,

Tights New Look,

Shoes Office

C A L L I N G O U T F O R

S I M P L I C I T Y

W O R D S Rosalyn Stanley

2014 was the year of the Normcore trend, a combination of normal and hard-core. This trend summed up is bland styling in plain neutral clothing. Most of us will be guilty of dipping into the mom jean, sneaker and plain top all in monotone, and why, because it was easy. Very little thought process when into this trend and maybe it was nice for a while to take a breather. Now we are seeing the end of it and moving on, we wander how future trends will play out, will it be a case of every so often we need this down time in fashions. Does the overload of extreme outfits at events like Fashion Week, call for some simplicity?

The first notion of the Normcore trend came about in William Gibson’s 2003 novel, Pattern Recognition. The concept was about a girl who is very big in the advertising industry but who is also allergic to logos. Gibson describes his main character, Cayce, as dressing in “A small boy’s black Fruit of the Loom T-shirt, a thin grey V-neck pullover purchased by the half-dozen from a supplier to the New England prep schools, and a new and oversized pair of black 501’s, every trademark carefully removed.”

In October 2013 K-Hole, the New York-based trend forecasting group, then wrote their view on this new word by publishing a report called Youth Mode, a report of Freedom’ that put forward the point that consumers are tired of having to be different from everyone else to achieve recognition.

Why not just blend in? K-Hole set out the idea of Normcore as more of a conversational topic within the art-world, rather than meant for a fashion trend. How it blew up to be the biggest trend of 2014, was because magazines such as New York Magazine published they’re view on this thesis as a trend forecast, probably unknowingly that it would take off how it did. The original meaning behind Normcore was lost along the way; the creators described the intention as ‘moving away from coolness that relies on difference to a post-authenticity coolness that opts in to sameness.’ And ‘unconcerned with authenticity.’ K-Hole was striving for a more non-exclusive society where you don’t have to belong to a group you are just yourself, normal and that’s fine.

So what does the future hold for fashion trends?

Predicting trends seems like an impossible task, to become trend forecaster you must be in touch with what’s going on worldwide and have the confidence that that trend will be picked up by designers. Trend forecasters such as Geraldine Wharry, senior trend forecaster for WGSN and Trend Atelier, have to be aware and up-to-date with all aspects if life such as in science, textiles, films, art, political topics and explore different cultures for inspiration.

normcore editorial

F A D E T O G R E Y

P H O T O G R A P H E R Amber DolleyS T Y L I S T Rosalyn StanleyM A K E U P Sian LidgateM O D E L Charlotte Roffey

Dress Yifang Wan,

Shirt H&M

Shirt Youjia Jin

Trousers Topshop

Shoes New Look

N E X T P A G E

Jumper + trousers H&M

Shirt Topshop

Jacket Youjia Jin

Shirt + trousers H&M

Shoes New Look

T H I S P A G E

(same as before)

P R E V I O U S P A G E

(same as before)

The blossom is blooming on this one guy,Being photographed by a stranger,

I have no interest in your face.Masculinity is no matter, No need to take offence.

Strong masculine silhouettes?Straight stern faces.

Changes in men, masculinity redefined.The straight cut suit expiring,

Floral garments inspiring.

Serious, but not so serious,The experimental, modern man.Exciting, imaginative, functional, Time for change and liberation.

C. B + R. S

P H O T O G R A P H E R Amber DolleyS T Y L I S T Rosalyn Stanley

M O D E L Ross Kitcher

G R A N N Y F L O W E R

M A N P O W E R As menswear fashion has moved further into the spotlight with its own dedicated fashion week, starting back in 2012, men are becoming more style conscious. Today’s modern men are becoming increasingly aware and experimental with their own styles, designer Rachel James is the one to bring a ray of sunshine on any rainy day.

A graduate from Westminster University in 2014, Rachel’s first collection is an explosion of nostalgic floral prints in pastel colours. By creating confident, imaginative but also functional items, Rachel wants to liberate today’s men’s style and reinvent what masculinity means.

Drawing inspiration for her SS15 graduate collection, from when Rachel first photographs by Tony Ray Jones in an exhibition at the Science Museum. The photos portrayed the British working class in the 70s in general scenarios of them sitting with their families, generally drinking tea or eating ice creams. The faces of those people in the photos were often stern, unemotional expressions, which Rachel noticed contrasted against the loud and quirky prints and colours of the setting around them. The floral print was very bug during the 70s and could be found on many wallpapers throughout houses, opposing this print in the photos of Tony Ray Jones, men stood strong in masculine silhouettes. This theme has continued into Rachel’s second collection AW15.

Whether you’re bold enough to wear her collection head to toe or want to customise an item with more neutral clothing for a calmer look, Rachel’s collection is a one size fits all type.

F R E A K S H O W

P H O T O G R A P H E R Amy De Friend S T Y L I S T Rosalyn StanleyM A K E U P Sian LidgateM O D E L Chloe Iles

E N D

T H A N K Y O U

Chris Overend

Indigo Press

Soutampton Solent University

Abbie Hills

S T O C K I S T S

A D I D A S adidas.co.uk

A L D O aldoshoes.com

A M E R I C A N A P P A R E L store.americanapparel.co.uk

A S O S asos.com

B E R S H K A bershka.com

D O C M A R T E N S drmartens.com/uk

H & M hm.com/gb

K I R S T Y W A R D kirsty-ward.com

N E W L O O K newlook.com

N I K E nike.com/gb

O F F I C E office.co.uk

R A C H E L J A M E S racheljamesltd.com

R E I Nreinlondon.com

R I V E R I S L A N D riverisland.com

T O P S H O P topshop.com

U R B A N O U T F I T T E R S urbanoutfitters.com/uk

W A R E H O U S E warehouse.co.uk

Y I F A N G W A N yf-wan.com

Y O U J I A J I N youjiajin.com

Z A R A zara.com/uk