RoR Step-by-Step Review 20131030* Gee Bee Air Racer 1:32 Scale … · 2013. 10. 30. · Gee Bee Air Racer 1:32 Scale Lindberg Model Kit #70561 Review . The Gee Bees, perhaps the best-known

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RoR Step-by-Step Review 20131030* Gee Bee Air Racer 1:32 Scale Lindberg Model Kit #70561 Review

The Gee Bees, perhaps the best-known of all “Golden Age” American racing aircraft, were produced by the five Granville Brothers, from which the name “Gee Bee” was derived. Beginning in 1929 with biplanes, the Granvilles soon turned to construction of low-wing sport aircraft, with a sideline excursion into canard experimental machines. Competition types were the next step, and as the result of early successes, work began during early spring of 1932 on the R-1 and R-2 racers, which were structurally quite similar, and the R-1 was ready by August! A Pratt & Whitney Wasp Sr. engine of approximately 800 horsepower, and targeted for the closed loop course racing, powered the R-1. Although Broadman was scheduled to pilot the R-1 in the National Air Races, he was injured in another aircraft, and temporarily put out of action. Thus, Jimmy Doolittle took over, and proceeded to capture the worlds speed record, with an average of 296.287 miles per hour. Soon afterward, he won the Thompson Trophy Race over a closed course. For the Modeler: This is the Lindberg Gee Bee Air Racer in 1:32 Scale, Model Kit #70561. This skill level 2 kit includes 30+ parts, molded in white plastic and a clear plastic canopy. These models are readily available at online retailers and larger hobby stores and are made in the USA. This kit features a pilot figure, detailed cockpit, moveable ailerons, elevators and rudder. It has a detailed engine and colorful waterslide decals. Have fun and keep learning. Easy to build and affordable this is a good kit for the novice builder.


Fig 0a, 0b) Here is the kit’s contents and box art. This model represents the Gee Bee R-1. I used Testors Liquid Cement for this build except where noted.

Fig 01, 02, & 03) I started the kit by washing and rinsing all the parts to remove any mold release or foreign debris that could contaminate the paint. Step 1 – Engine, Cowl, & Prop

Fig 04) Step 1 components removed from the tree.


Fig 05 & 06) Painted the Engine with Testors Acryl Flat Black and the Cowl with Testors Acryl Insignia Red.

Fig 07) Painted the Propeller with Testors Enamel Chrome Silver. Fig 08) Using silver pastel, I dry brushed the motor to bring out the highlights.


Fig 10 & 11) Sprayed a coat of Future Floor Polish to the Cowl. This will give a good base for the Decals. I then applied the Decals to the Cowl using the method described in Step 10 and finally applied a coat of Future Floor Polish to the Cowl to seal on the Decals.

Fig 12) Glued the motor into the back of the Cowling using Micro Krystal Klear, then pushed the Propeller into the front of the Engine, and secured it with the Pin that I applied thick super glue too, being careful not to get any on the motor so the Propeller spins freely. Step 1 is complete. The instructions show the Cowl being attached to the Fuselage in Step 3. I will not attach the Cowl until after the Fuselage is painted and Decaled. The reason? I did not want to mask the Engine and Propeller and risk paint bleed thru or breaking the Propeller.


Step 2 – Horizontal Stabilizers and Elevators


Fig 14) Placed the Elevators into the holes on the bottom Horizontal Stab, then placed the top Stab onto the bottom and glued together with Testors Liquid Cement. I used clothes pins to hold them together overnight. Step 2 is complete. The Horizontal Stab and Elevators will be glued onto the Fuselage in Step 3


Step 3 – Fuselage Fig 15) Step 3 components removed from the tree.

Fig 16,17, 18) Painted the Tail Wheel Strut with Testors Enamel Aluminum, the Tail Wheel Tire with Testors Enamel Rubber and then I snapped the Tire onto the Tail Wheel.

Fig 19) I placed the Tail Wheel into one of the Fuselage Half’s. I carefully placed the other Fuselage Half into position and secured it with Tape and small clamps. I slid the Horizontal Stab and Elevator assembly from Step 2 into the slot in the Fuselage, then placed the Rudder into position. After I was happy that everything was lined up, I applied Testors Liquid Cement to all the seams and let it dry for 24 hours. Step 3 is complete less the Engine and Cowl Installation.


Step 4 – Wings & Ailerons


Fig 21) I Placed the Ailerons into the holes on the bottom Wing half, then placed the top Wing onto the bottom and glued together with Testors Liquid Cement. I used clothes pins to hold them together overnight. Step 4 is complete. I will install the Wings onto the Fuselage in Step 6


Step 5 – Cockpit


Fig 23) Glued the seat onto the floor, painted the floor with Testors Enamel Wood, and the Head Rest with Testors Acryl Insignia Red.

Fig 25) Painted the Control Stick with Testors Enamel Aluminum and the grip with Testors Acryl Semi-Gloss Black.

Fig 28) Painted the Pilot’s jacket with Testors Acryl Leather. I painted the helmet and Boots with Testors Enamel Wood. The pilots face, and hands are Testors Enamel Flesh and the goggles were painted with Testors Enamel Green.


Fig 31, 32) Painted the Instrument Panel with Testors Acryl Flat Black. The Instruments were cut from the Instruction Sheet. Glue the Instruments to the Panel with Contact Cement the glue the Instrument Panel in place using Testors Liquid Cement. I didn’t bother trying to detail the seat because you really can’t see that much through the canopy anyhow.

Fig 33) Glued the pilot in place using Micro Krystal Klear. The Cockpit is complete and will be installed in Step 6


Step 6 – Wings & Cockpit Assembly into Fuselage

Fig 34) Glued the Cockpit into the Fuselage using Thick Super Glue

Fig 35) Glued the wings in place with Testors Liquid Cement. To maintain an even dihedral, I secured the Wings with masking tape. Step 6 is complete.


Step 7 – Fuselage Top and Canopy

Fig 36, 37) Step 7 components removed from the tree and then glued the Canopy into the Fuselage Top with Micro Krystal Kleer.

Fig 38) Glued the Fuselage Top onto the Fuselage with Testors Liquid Cement. I clamped this into position and allowed it to dry overnight. Step 7 is complete


Step 8 – Landing Gear


Fig 40, 41) Glued the tire halves together using Testors Liquid Cement and clamped together with Clothes Pins until dry. Paint the Main Tires and Tail Wheel Tire with Testors Enamel Rubber.

Fig 42) I masked the tires with Tamiya Tape, then placed the tires onto one of the Wheel Pants, then placed the other Wheel Pant half onto the other. I glued these together using Testors Liquid Cement and clamped together with clothes pins. Step 8 is complete. I will attach the Landing Gear after Paint and Decals.


Step 9 – Painting

Fig 43) I masked of the entire Airframe using along the raised lines on the model. I used Tamiya ¼ tape, along the lines then the remainder of the Airframe was covered with Blue Painters Tape.

Fig 45) I painted everything that was not masked with Testors Acryl Insignia Red and allowed it to dry for about an hour, then I unmasked. I then sprayed the entire Airframe with Future Floor Polish to give a good base for the Decals.


Step 10 – Decals

Fig 46) I applied the Decals to the Airframe using the manufactures recommendations. The items I use to apply decals are a container of warm water, Microscale Micro Sol, a small paint brush to apply the Micro Sol, a razor blade for cutting out the decals, and the decals. Not shown are paper towels. Microscale Micro Sol. This product when applied to the decal will soften the decal so it sits perfectly onto the surface of the aircraft. To start the decal process, first carefully trim the decal away from the sheet. Next, place the decal into your warm water for approximately 10 – 20 seconds then remove and place onto a dry paper towel. Depending on the decal, the adhesive

may take several minutes to soften. After about 3 to 4 minutes, the decal slides on the backing paper. Carefully place into position on the aircraft. At this point, the decal can be moved around into the desired position. When you’re satisfied, dab the paper towel onto the decal soaking up any water that may be on the surface. Now apply the Microscale Micro Sol using the paint brush. Cover the entire decal and surrounding area. After about 3 minutes the decal will start to wrinkle up. Don’t panic. This is normal as the decal softens. WORD OF CAUTION – Do not attempt to move the decal now. You will be sorry. Trust me!

Fig 47) The Decals have been applied and sealed with Future Floor Polish.


Step 11 – Final Assembly – Landing Gear and Engine/Cowl

Fig 48) Glued the Main Landing Gear into the slots with Testors Liquid Cement.

Fig 49) For the rigging, I used the music wire that came with the kit. The holes are molded into the fuselage and wings. Start by making a slight bend on one end. This bend will go into a hole on the wing. Place the wire into the hole in the wing, then rotate it getting it as close to the fuselage hole as possible. This shows us how long the wire needs to be. Cut the wire about 1/8” longer than it needs to be. Now bend the end of the wire that was just trimmed about 1/8” short of end. Make sure to bend it the same direction as the first bend so the wire appears to be straight in the top view. Now, place the wire in the holes and evaluate the length. If it’s too long, the wire will be bowed between the holes. If it’s too short, you’ll see your bends before they enter the holes. When you’re happy with the length, apply a thick Super Glue to the end of the wire and reinstall. Take your time.


Fig 50) Glued the Engine and Cowl onto the Fuselage with Thick Super Glue.

Fig 53, 54) The Gee Bee is complete. Here are some alternate views of the model.


Completion:

Fig 999) I enjoyed building this kit for one simple reason. There was no detail or scale to this kit. Unlike the previous Gee Bee’s I’ve built from another company, this model lacks what theirs brings to the table. For instance, the Decals on the side of the fuselage should be red, not black. The pilot seems small for 1/32, the fuselage diameter is too large, the wings if were blown up full size would be 12 inches thick. I could go on and on, but like I said. I had fun and this is a great model for a beginner that is not concerned with detail.


More About the Gee Bee Air Racers: The R-2 Racer was designed for use in cross country events and featured a Wasp Jr. Engine of approximately 550 horsepower, and an additional fuel capacity. After the initial flight, by Russell Boardman, modifications to the fin and rudder were performed to improve directional stability. A radical design for the period, but the Granvilles were convinced they were on the right track for a streamlined aircraft, and wind tunnel tests with a model proved promising. The wings on both aircraft utilized an M-6 airfoil, and were covered with plywood, which in turn was covered with fabric. Fourteen coats of lacquer were applied for a high-gloss finish, and markings added by painter George Agnoli. Lee Gehlbach, piloting the R-2 sister ship, placed fourth in the Bendix cross country race, fifth in the Thompson Trophy event, and third in a competition limited to aircraft with engines of 1,000 cubic inches or less displacement. The plane had proven itself and the reputation of the Granville Company was sound as aircraft designers, although some pilot mishaps also drove a later, erroneous reputation that their aircraft were “killers” SPECIFICATIONS: Wing Span: 25 feet Length: 17 feet, 8 inches Empty Weight: R-1 1840 lbs, R-2 1796 lbs Fuel Capacity: R-1 = 160 gallons, R-2 = 302 gallons R-1 speed: 309 mph reported by J. Doolittle, World record set of 252.686 average on closed course R-2 speed: 247.339 top recorded in Shell Speed Dash

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RoR Step-by-Step Review 20131030* Gee Bee Air Racer 1:32 Scale … · 2013. 10. 30. · Gee Bee Air Racer 1:32 Scale Lindberg Model Kit #70561 Review . The Gee Bees, perhaps the best-known