Ropes and Knots (Rev 3)

THE PPTSB MARINER’S GUIDE

ROPES, KNOTS.

HITCHES &

SPLICES.

Explanations of Rope fibERs and constructions How to tie Knots and Hitches

How to splice Braided and Twisted Ropes How to make things with Ropes

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Beginners - What are KNOTS and SPLICES? Page 1

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What are KNOTS and SPLICES?As a general term, 'knot' includes all configurations made in a cord or line (or other material).However, when naming knots, the term knot is used in a more specific way. The knotting'family' is best explained by the following diagrams: INTERNATIONAL GUILD OF KNOT TYERS (IGKT)

KNOTSThe rope is tied to itself

STOPPER KNOTS BINDING KNOTS LOOP KNOTSMaking a bulky part ina rope to stop itpassing through anobject or to stop thestrands unlaying

Joining the ends of asingle rope around anobject or objects. Theknot 'bears upon' theobject

Whippings, lashings andseizing are special typesof binding knot.

FIXED LOOPSA single loop ormore than oneloop that does notclose under strain.

SLIP LOOPSKnots that slide,closing the loopunder strain orallowing it to beopened.

Thumb knotFigure of eightknotOysterman's knot

Heaving lineknots also makeweight at the endof a rope:Barrel knotMonkey's fistLoaded Turk'sHead

Reef knotSurgeon's knotPacker's knotConstrictor knot

Whippings for bindingrope ends:

Admiralty whippingWest CountrywhippingPalm & needlewhipping

Lashings for bindingspars:

Square/JapaneseDiagonal/FilipinoSheer lashingTripod l

Seizing for bindingropes:

BowlineArtillery loopFigure of 8loopFireman'schair knotAlpineButterfly knot

RunningBowlineHonda knotHandcuff knotJar slingHangman'sknot



Flat seizingRound seizing

BENDS...joinends HITCHES...tie to something else SHORTENINGS SPLICES

Joining the endsof two ropes. Theknot must hold,even when jerkedin mid-air. Unlikea binding knot, abend does nothave to bearupon an object

MIDDLEHITCHESAttaching themiddle of a ropeto an object whenthere is strain onboth sides of theknot.

END HITCHESAttaching the end ofa rope to an object - aring, a post, a bollard,a peg or evenanother rope.

Taking up theslack in a rope.

Working withtheconstituentparts of therope -disturbingthe structureandintertwiningthe strands.

Sheet bendCarrickbendFishermans'knot'Hunter'sbend

For differentthicknesses:

RackingbendBowlinebend

Clove hitchMarlinspikehitch

Various otherhitches areadapted as'crossinghitches'Blackwallfrom other knots:

MooringhitchConstrictorknot

Cat's pawLark's HeadTimber hitchBecket hitchRound turn andtwo half hitchesAnchor hitch(Fisherman's'bend')Buntline hitch

To a hook:Blackwallhitch

Quick-release:

SheepshankChainshorteningBellringer 'sknot

EyespliceShortspliceLongspliceCutspliceBackspliceChainspliceTuckedsplice



Highwayman'shitch

Lengthwise pull:Rolling hitch

Increase tension:Waggoner'shitch(Harvester'shitch)

©Tim Field 1999

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INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

This reference guide is designed to give the riggers, C.A.L.M Buoyoperators and others who is interested with ropework a generalknowledge of ropes, knots, hitches and splices. Those which areessential, and those which have become accepted as best suited fora particular purpose.

Man, from his most primitive beginning, has joined vines, creepersand other flexible materials to make rope. Through trial and errorover the centuries a great number of knots, hitches, splices, lashingsand other fastenings have evolved. This guide contains those thatare most used and most useful to everyday and in some casesindustrial use.

Modern rope is a product of science and technology. It combinesgreat strength with light-weight flexibility to provide greater versatilityand ease of handling than any of the natural fiber ropes.

The best known synthetic fiber ropes are constructed of Nylon,Polyester, Polypropylene, Polyethylene and Kevelar etc. Theadvantages of these ropes are that they are strong; not damaged byoil, grease or gasoline; are rot-proof and, in the case of nylon, areable to take greater shock loads due to its elasticity. Polypropyleneand polyethylene ropes have the ability to float on the surface ofwater. Polyester ropes provide great strength with an absoluteminimum amount of stretch.

ROPE CONSTRUCTIONSROPE CONSTRUCTIONS

BRAID-ON-BRAID: Also known as Twin Braid and Double Braid. Actually two braidedropes combined into one rope. A braided core is covered with abraided jacket to produce a strong, handsome, easy handling rope.This rope is spliceable and, in most instances, is stronger thantwisted rope of the same material and diameter. It is available invarious synthetic fibers. Our 15 inch (381 mm) diameter Hawsersystem for the C.A.L.M buoy uses this particular type of nylon rope.Special floats are used to keep them floating.

DIAMOND BRAID: Also known as Hollow Braid and Maypole Braid. This rope isconstructed of 8, 12 or 16 strands with a hollow center. An

ROPE,KNOTS,HITCHESROPE,KNOTS,HITCHES & SPLICES & SPLICES MYGAZEE ‘99MYGAZEE ‘99

RESTRICTED CIRCULATIONPage 2 of 40

outstanding characteristic of this construction is its ability to bespliced in just seconds. It is available in various synthetic fibers. Our polypropylene Pick-up rope for the C.A.L.M buoy is normally of thisconstruction.

SOLID BRAID: A very firm, round rope that works extremely well and blocks andpulleys. Its name refers to the special lock-stitch construction of therope. Solid Braid rope will not unravel when cut or accidentallybroken. It is available in various synthetic and cotton fibers.

LAID: Also known as Twisted rope. Just about all laid rope is 3-strandconstruction. It is spliceable and is available in virtually every type ofrope fiber.

ROPE FIBERSROPE FIBERS

NYLON: The strongest fiber rope manufactured. Due to its elasticity, nyloncan absorb sudden shock loads that would break ropes of otherfibers. It has very good resistance to abrasion and will last four to fivetimes longer than natural fiber ropes. Nylon rope is rot proof and notdamaged by oils, gasoline, grease, marine growth or mostchemicals. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc, Wellington Ropes,British ropes, OLIVERA etc.

GOLD BRAID: A gold colored Braid-On-Braid nylon rope, consisting of a braidedjacket over a braided core. Combines excellent performance,spliceability and handsome appearance. Manufactured by PuritanMills, Inc, Wellington Ropes, British ropes, OLIVERA etc.

POLYESTER: Polyester is very strong, but not quite as strong as nylon rope. Thedifference between the two.ropes is that polyester does not have thestretch and elasticity of nylon. Other than this, the characteristics ofthe two fibers are practicallythe same. Manufactured by Puritan Mills,Inc, Wellington Ropes, British ropes OLIVERA etc.

PIMM SHEET: A specially constructed rope designed specifically for sailing. It isavailable in either polyester or cotton. Polyester PIMM Sheet is farsuperior to cotton due to its great strength, minimum stretch,



abrasion resistance and durability. it is Manufactured by PuritanMills, Inc, Wellington Ropes, British ropes OLIVERA etc.

TENSTRON:Combines tradition with progress. Tenstron is constructed from olefinfiber with the rich, golden tan color of manila rope. It has all theadvantages of the modern synthetics, plus the rope color that manypeople like. It is rot proof, water proof and not damaged by oil,gasoline or most chemicals. In addition, Tenstron floats on thesurface of water. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc, WellingtonRopes, British ropes OLIVERA etc.

POLYPROPYLENE: A lightweight, strong rope that is extensively used in many differentways. It is a floating rope and is rot proof and unaffected by water,oil, gasoline or most chemicals. Polypropylene rope is available inmonofilament fiber, which is smooth surfaced, or multifilament fiber,which has a somewhat velvety appearance and feel. Manufacturedby Puritan Mills, Inc,Wellington Ropes, British ropes, OLIVERA etc.

PRO.LINE:Puritan Mills, Inc. registered trade name for multifilamentpolypropylene rope. Available in either solid braid or laid (twisted)construction. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc,Wellington Ropes,British ropes, OLIVERA etc.

POLYETHYLENE:One of the best known synthetic fiber ropes. A floating ropesomewhat like polypropylene except that it is just a little lighter. Also,polyethylene’s handling characteristics are a little different thanpolypropylene. It is not quite as strong, size for size, aspolypropylene. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc,Wellington Ropes,British ropes, OLIVERA etc.

COTTON: Much cotton rope and cord is used today. Most of it in the form ofsash cord, clothesline, venetian blind cord and other uses. Forhandling quality, cotton is hard to beat. It is soft and pliable, and easyon the hands. Being a natural fiber, it does not have the strength ordurability of synthetic fiber ropes.

MANILA: The best known natural fiber rope. At one time it was the bestavailable but it is steadily losing ground to the synthetic fiber ropes.



Manila must be handled and stored with care as any dampness willcause it to rot and, of course, materially damage its effectiveness.

SISAL: A rope that’s used primarily where strength and durability are notimportant. Sisal is a natural fiber that deteriorates rapidly whenexposed to weather.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR ROPE LASTHOW TO MAKE YOUR ROPE LASTLONGER LONGER

AVOID OVERLOADING ... Safe working strength for any rope is 1/5th it’s breaking strength.Ignoring this safety factor is dangerous. If your rope is old or worn,make allowances for safety.

AVOID ABRASION ... Outer and inner rope fibers contribute equally to the strength of yourrope. When worn, your rope is naturally weakened. Where it isnecessary for a rope to rub over an object protect it with chafinggear, such as canvas wrapped and tied around the rope.

AVOID SUDDEN STRAIN ... Rope that is strong enough under a steady strain can be broken witha sudden jerk. Care when working with rope is extremely important.

AVOID KINKS ... When rope is repeatedly turned or twisted in one direction, it iscertain that kinks will develop, unless twists are repeatedly thrown in,or out of rope, Pulling a kink through a restricted space such as atackle block will seriously damagethe rope fibers.

AVOID SHARP ANGLES... Sharp bends greatly affect the strenth of a rope. Any sharp angle is aweak spot. Pad it for safety, and even then, Be Careful!

AVOID WRONG REEVING ... Always use the right size rope for the sheaves in the block or pulley.Too small sheaves cause added friction and rope wear.

REVERSE ENDS ... Prolonged use, or wear, of one part of a rope will naturally, decreaseit’s effectiveness at that point. Occasionally reverse your rope,



end-for-end, to distribute the wear more evenly. A good example isan anchor line aboard a boat.

AVOID CHEMICALS ... Virtually all synthetic fiber ropes are immune to damage from oil,gasoline, paint and most chemicals. To be on the safe side,however, keep your rope free of any type chemical. Natural fiberropes are, of course, severely damaged by exposure to chemicals.

KEEP ROPE CLEAN ... Dirt on the surface and imbedded in rope acts as an abrasive onfibers. When rope becomes dirty wash it thoroughly with clean water.Be sure to dry natural fiber ropes before storing.

AVOID IMPROPER STORAGE... Synthetic fiber ropes require no special storing conditions other thankeeping them out of sunlight and out of extremely hot rooms. Theultra-violet rays of sunlight has a weakening effect on rope that isexposed for prolonged periods of time. Natural fiber ropes must ofcourse, be kept dry or they will rot in a very short time.

ROPE TERMINOLOGYROPE TERMINOLOGY

BIGHT: A loop made in any part of a rope.

BITTER END: The end of a rope opposite the end in use.

BLOCK: Similar to a pulley. Used to give mechanical advantagewhen lifting or pulling heavy objects.

END: The end of a rope in use. (Opposite the bitter end).

FATHOM: A unit of measurement. 1 fathom = 6 feet (1.8288 meter)

FALL: The standing part of the rope coming from the fixed block ona block-and-tackle, on which strain is applied.

LAY: The way a twisted rope is constructed. Lay is either right-hand(Z-lay) or left-hand (S-lay).

LINE: Rope used aboard boats and ships is called line.



PULLEY: A device consisting of a sheave mounted in a block orwall, which is used to achieve mechanical advantage when lifting orpulling heavy objects.

ROUND TURN: Two turns of rope around the object to which it isbeing fastened.

SHEAVE: Pronounced “shiv”. The grooved wheel in a block or pulleyupon which the rope rides when in use.

STANDING PART: The main part of the rope.

TURN: One turn of a rope around the object to which it is beingfastened.

KNOTS

OVERHAND KNOTA knot made in a rope to prevent it from pulling through your hand ora hole, is called a stopper knot. The simplest of these knots hasmany names, but is best known as the Overhand knot. It is tied bymaking an overhand loop. Then passing the end under and upthrough the loop... Tighten.

FIGURE of 8 KNOTThe Figure 8 is an ideal basic knot form, used as a hand-hold at theend of a rope, or at any point between the ends... used at the end ofa line to prevent a sheet or line from slipping through a block orpulley. This knot is tied by making an overhand loop, then bringing



the free end over the standing part and back under and through theloop.

STEVEDORE’S KNOTSomewhat similar to the Figure 8 knot, the Stevedore’s knot is madewith two turns around the rope, as illustrated. Inserting a stick in theloop before tightening permits this knot to be easily untied.

SURGEON’S KNOTFrequently used when tying packages with twine, to keep the first tiefrom slipping before the knot is completed. To tie... With one end inhand, take three turns around the other end. Pull tight. Pass one endover and under the other end. Draw up tight and the knot iscomplete.

SQUARE ( REEF) KNOTOriginally used by seamen in reefing and furling sails aboard the oldsailing ships. It is unsafe, however, forfasteningtwo ropestogether...as it unties easily when either of the protruding ends isjerked. The square knot is used in first-aid for bandage tying. To tie



this knot, pass the left end over and under the right end. Curve whatis now the left end to the right, under and over the right end. Pulltight.

BEWARE OF THE THIEF AND GRANNY KNOTS!TheThief and Granny knots, at first glance, look like the square knotbut they are to be avoided. Study the illustrations closely to see thedifference.

THIEF KNOTThe Thief knot is not entirely trustworthy. It gets its name from thedays of the old sailing ships, when sailors lived out of sea bags. If aman suspected that a shipmate was rummaging through his seabagwhen he wasn’t around, he would tie it closed with a thief knot,knowing that a sailor would invariably tie a square knot when tyingthe bag after searching through it.

GRANNY KNOTThe Granny knot is usually the result of an improperly tied squareknot. It may hold . .. It may not. This knot is not too reliable.

SHEET BEND



An efficient knot for joining two ropes, especially hen they are ofdifferent diameters. ake a loop in the end of one rope, (the largerdiameter rope if they are of different sizes). Run the end of the otherrope through the loop, behind its standing part.. .then down throughthe loop again.Tighten, and that’s all there is to it. Make sure theends of both ropes are on the same side of the knot. The Double Sheet Bend—made by running the rope end twicebehind the standing part, then through the loop—is recommended fortying synthetic fiber lines together.

CARRICK BENDThe Carrick Bend is an extremely strong knot suitable for allthicknesses of line. However, it is generally used for larger ropes. Itwill not jam, even when wet. To tie this knot, make a loop in the endof one rope as illustrated. Then thread the other rope end around theloop, using an over-an-under sequence. At no point does the ropepass through a loop, and the ends finish on opposite sides asillustrated.



BOWLINEThe most useful knot you can know. The Bowline forms a loop thatwill not slip or jam and is easily untied. It is used for mooring,hoisting, joining two ropes, and for fastening a rope to a ring or post.To tie... Form a small loop in the rope. Run the end up through theloop, behind the standing part, then back down through the loop. Pulltight.

RUNNING BOWLINEUsed when a noose is needed to tighten a rope aro’jnd something. Aregular Bowline is tied, with its loop around the standing part of therope.



DOUBLE BOWLINECan be used as a seat sling, and is tied exactly in the same manneras the ordinary Bowline. The difference being that you pass the endthrough the loop twice, making two lower loops. The end is thenpassed behind the standing part and down through the first loopagain, as in the ordinary Bowline. Tighten as illustrated. Theright-hand loop goes under the arms, and the left-hand loop formsthe seat.



BOWLINE ON BIGHTA knot used to accommodate special loads or for holding anunconcious, or injured person. The tying of this knot is accomplishedby taking a long bight (loop) of rope, making an overhand loop, thenrunning the large loop up through the small loop. Flip the loop-endforward and around the large ioops, then up behind the standing partas shown. Pull right side of loop to tighten. For holding a person ...place one leg through each large loop and the loop-end under thearms and around the back, as illustrated.



SPANISH BOWLINECommonly used in slinging a ladder. The Spanish Bowline is tied byforming three loops in any central section of your rope, as illustrated.Flip the large center loop up, to encircle the smaller loops. Reachdown through the small loops, grasp each side of the large loop, andpull it through the small loops simultaneously.



FISHERMAN’S (ANCHOR) BENDWhen a rope is to be used as an anchor rode, it must be attachedsecurely because you cannot inspect it in use. Taking a turn arounda ring (or post) then running the rope end through the turn, betweenthe turn and the ring. Two half hitches complete the knot. When thisknot has been pulled tight and is wet, it is very difficult to untie.



MILLER’S KNOTFor tying bags and sacks. Take two turns around the neck of thebag, the first turn over the standing part, the second turn under thestanding part, as shown. Draw up tight.



FISHERMAN’S KNOTA good knot for joining small rope, twine and fishing line. One end ispassed through an overhand knot in the other line, then knottedaround it. Pull knots tightly together to complete knot.

MATHEW WALKER KNOTTo tie the Mathew Walker knot, sometimes referred to as the Crownknot, unlay the strands at the end of your rope for a short distance.Then begin tying off as illustrated. Draw up tight and trim ends.



HITCHES

HALF HITCHThe most basic of knot forms. Used primarily in the formation ofother knots, the Half Hitch can be used to secure an object for a rightangle pull. When strain is constant this hitch is fairly reliable. Tie asIllustrated.

ROUND TURN and 2 HALF HITCHESUsed for making fast the end of a rope to post or ring. Old timeseamen said, “It will hold the devil.” Take two complete turns aroundthe post or ring, then take two half hitches on the standing part asshown.



CLOVE HITCHOne of the fastest and easiest hitches to make. It is used to fasten arope to a stake or post. Make it by taking two turns around the post;the first, under the standing part; the second, also under the standingpart but in the opposite direction.WARNING: Never use the Clove Hitch where it needs to bereleased in a hurry. This hitch binds extremely tight and, in the caseof a wet rope, may be virtually impossible to free quickly.

BLACKWALL HITCHUsed only for light loads and, even then, with caution. The BlackwallHitch holds under constant strain, but will free itself if the load isslackened. It simply consists of looping a rope around a hook withthe end under the standing part.



TIMBER HITCHA fast, convenient method of attaching a rope to a log for dragging orhoisting. The Timber Hitch is tied by taking a turn around the log,then a half hitch on the standing part. Then twist the end arounditself at least three times, as illustrated. A half hitch around the log isdesirable when dragging.

SHEEPSHANKYou may find it necessary sometime to shorten, or take the load off aweak spot in the rope. When there is no time to do it right, theSheepshank is the answer. Lay out two side-by-side loops as shown,then take a half hitch around each loop with the standing part. TheSheepshank holds pretty well under a steady strain, but remember..,it’s for temporary use only.



MIDSHIPMAN’S HITCHUsed generally for mooring and life-saving. This knot is tied by firsttaking a half hitch around the standing part, then a turn around thestanding part, within the loop. Pass the end through the loop, thentake a half hitch around the standing part, outside the loop. The loopcan be made larger or smaller by sliding the hitch along the standingpart. It will hold under strain, in any position.



COW HITCHA simple and quick way to hitch a rope to a post. Double the end ofyour rope to form an open loop. Reach through the loop and pullboth the end and the standing part back through the loop. Drop thedouble ioop over a post and tighten.



HALTER HITCHThe Halter Hitch is used for securing an animal, or anything, to a ringor post. Tie exactly as illustrated. Draw loop tight against post or ringwhen knot is as shown in Step 2. Then insert end or rope throughsmall loop to prevent knot failure.



CATSPAWUsed for hoisting heavy loads. It is jam-proof and efficient. Tie it byholding the rope with both hands, well apart. Turn your hands awayfrom you. Bring together the two loops and drop over the hook.

LASHINGS

SQUARE LASHINGUsed to secure two posts, poles or bars that cross and touch eachother. Begin with a Clove Hitch around the upright pole just below thehorizontal pole. Twist the end and standing part of the rope tightlytogether and pass the rope up over the horizontal pole and behind



the upright pole. Now bring it forward and down around the horizontalpole, then back behind the upright pole, laying it just above the CloveHitch. Repeat this procedure four times, laying each turn outside theprevious turn on the horizontal pole, and inside each turn on theupright pole. Finish with three or four over-and-under passes aroundthe lashing as illustrated and complete with a Clove Hitch on thehorizontal pole, pulled tight next to the lashing.

DIAGONAL LASHINGUsed to pull together and secure two posts, poles or bars that crossbut do not touch each other. Begin by making a Timber Hitchdiagonally around both poles where they cross and tighten. Followthis with three or four turns at right angle to the first turns. Twoover-and-under passes are made a round the lashing as illustrated inStep 2. Finish by making a Clove Hitch around the nearest post.



SHEAR LASHINGUsed to secure two parallel poles, and also for rigging “shear legs” tosupport rope bridges, cables, etc. First make a Clove Hitch aroundone pole. Twist the end and standing part of the rope tightly togetherthen take seven or eight turns around both poles, not too tight, layingeach turn next to the previous one. Now take three or four turnsaround the first turns, between the poles. These last turns must beverytight to pull the lashing firmly around the poles. Finish with aClove Hitch around the other pole. “Shear legs” are formed bymaking a Shear Lashing at the pivot point of two crossing poles, thenspreading the poles apart at the base.



TRIPOD LASHINGPlace three poles on the ground, parallel to each other and with theend of one between the ends of the other two. First make a CloveHitch around the end of one pole, then take seven or eight looseturns around all three poles. Next take two or three loose turnsaround the first turns, between the poles. Finish with a Clove Hitcharound the center pole. Raise tripod to standing position and adjustlegs so they are spaced an equal distance apart.



SPLICING

SHORT SPLICE1. For end-to-end splicing of two ropes. First, unlay both ropesfor a short distance and bring them together so that the main bodiesof the ropes fit snugly and the unlaid strands mesh; alternating astrand of one with a strand of the other. Sealing the strand-ends ofsynthetic fiber ropes with a flame or hot knife will prevent theirunravelling. It is helpful to temporarily tie the strands of one rope tothe body of the other rope.

2. Now, tuck one of the unlaid strands over and under a strandof the opposite rope, working against the twist. Take the unlaidstrand, next to the strand just tucked,and tuck it over and under thenext strand in the opposite rope. Do the same thing with theremaining unlaid strand. Now, take one more tuck with each strand.

3. Remove the temporary tie and make two tucks with the otherthree strands. You now have the strands of each rope tucked twotimes through the strands of the other rope. Now go back and make



at least two more tucks with each of the six strands.. . four additionaltucks are recommended for synthetic ropes.

4. RoIl the splice under your foot, or a board and clip off ends ofprotruding strands. CAUTION: Do not clip ends too close to splice.

LONG SPLICEThe Long splice is not quite as strong as the Short splice, but itpermits a rope to run freely through a block or pulley.

1. To make a Long splice, unlay the end of each rope about 14turns and bring them together so that the main bodies of the ropes fitsnugly and the unlaid strands mesh; alternating a strand of one witha strand of the other. Sealing strand-ends of synthetic fiber ropeswith a flame or hot knife will prevent their unravelling.

2. Starting with any opposite pair, unlay one strand and replace itwith it’s opposite strand from the other rope. Do the same thing withanother pair of strands, going in the opposite direction. You nowhave two long opposing strands in the center, at the original meeting



point of the two ropes, and a pair of long and short opposing strandson each side of center.

3. Now tie each pair of opposing strands tightly with an overhandknot, tuck each strand twice back into the rope, going against thetwist. Roll the splice under your foot or a board, clip protrudingstrand-ends and your splice is complete.

CROWN SPLICEWhen you want a rope end to be a little larger in diameter than therope, and have a finished appearance, the Crown Splice is theanswer.

1. Unlay the end of your rope, (sealing the strand ends ofsynthetic fiber rope will prevent them from unravelling) and lay theright-hand strand across the other two as illustrated.

2. Then tuck the left-hand strand over the first strand, then backover the right-hand strand.

3. Pull all strands snug, then tuck them in sequence, over andunder the strands in the main body of the rope, as in a short splice.Roll the splice under your foot or with a board, and clip protrudingends; not too close to the rope.



EYE SPLICEThe Eye Splice may be made as a loop of any size, or it can bemade tight around a metal thimble to prevent chafing of the ropefibers.

1. To begin your Eye Splice unlay the strands for a short distanceand double back to form a loop of the desired size, with the unlaidstrands laying across the twist of the rope.

Sealing strand-ends of synthetic fiber rope will prevent them fromunravelling.

Tuck the center unlaid strand under any one of the strands in themain body of the rope, going against the twist.

2. The next unlaid strand goes over the strand under which thecenter unlaid strand is tucked, and is tucked under the next strand inthe rope.

3. Tuck the last unlaid strand under the remaining strand in the rope,making sure the tuck is against the twist.



4. Pull each strand snugly up to the main body of the rope then tuckthem, in sequence, over and under the strands in the rope. While it istraditional to use 4 tucks, at least 6 tucks are recommended forsynthetic fiber ropes.

Roll the splice under your foot or a board, and trim protruding strandends, not too closely to rope. Your splice is complete.

HOW TO WHIP A ROPE END

Whipping is used primarily to prevent the end of twisted rope fromunravelling. It is done with twine; preferrably nylon twine because it isrot-proof.

First, lay a loop of twine along side the rope, with open end of theloop toward the end of the rope. Then, beginning a short distancefrom the rope end, wind the twine tightly around both the rope andthe twine loop. The last turn of the winding is inserted through the



loop-end. Next; holding the rope in one hand, pull the twine end atthe end of the rope until the loop-end is about mid-way in thewhipping. Clip both twine ends and the job is complete. The whippingshould be at least as long as the rope diameter.

HOW TO MAKE ROPE TO A CLEAT

In “Belaying” or making fast to a cleat, take the standing part of therope and make a turn around the stem of the cleat (away from thedirection of strain), under the cleat horn, then up over it’s center (Fig.1).

Take a half-hitch over the opposite cleat horn if rope strain is underlight strain, (Fig. 2). Under heavy strain, make one or two turns figureeight fashion over cleat horns before taking the half hitch, (Fig. 3).



HOW TO RIG SLINGS



A method used for centuries, and still the most satisfactory solutionto many varied hoisting, hauling and pulling operations. It isimportant to remember that the angle of pull on a sling has a greatdeal to do with its safety and efficiency. Wide angles of pull increasethe strain on the rope.

When working with a sling be aware that the strain on the rope isequal to the weight of the object being hoisted, only when the objectis being lifted with a straight pull. At a 120-degree angle of pull, thestrain on the rope is double that of the object being lifted. At a150-degree angle the strain is almost four times as great as theweight of the object being lifted.

Illustrated above are several types of the most commonly usedslings. All are tied with knots and hitches explained in this guide.



HOW TO RIG A BLOCK AND TACKLE

A block and tackle takes much of the work out of moving heavyobjects. The mechanical advantage is one less than the number orropes between theblocks.

Terminology:

Sheaves (pronounced “shivs”) - The grooved wheels upon which therope rides in a block.



Becket - A bracket on a block, opposite it’s hook end, for fasteningthe rope end to the block.

Fall block - The fixed block.

Reeve - The procedure of rigging a block and tackle.

The diagrams show, in a simplified manner, the easiest way to reevea block and tackle. Start with the rope end that is to be fastened tothe becket. This eliminates the necessity of pulling the entire ropelength through the blocks. Reeve the rope end first over sheave No.1; then No. 2; and so on ... ending up with the end eye-spliced to thebecket.

Double & Single: The becket is always on the single block. Thesingle block is always the movable block. The double block is alwaysthe fall block.

Double & Double: The becket is always on the fall block.

HOW TO MAKE A CLIMBING and SAFETY LINE



A rope with a series of hand-holds is perfect for climbing, and when itis a floating rope. . . Like polypropylene or polyethylene.., for trailingfrom an anchored boat to provide a safety line for swimmers.

It’s easy to make one. First, make a loop in the rope as illustrated,and flip it forward and slightly to the right. Pull the lower ioop underthe rope and up through the top ioop, as shown. Complete the knotby pulling the loop sharply to the left.

HOW TO MAKE A LEAD LINE

You will want a line that does not stretch so that measurements willbe accurate. The best to use is twisted polyester or 100% polyesterbraided line such as PIMM Sheet or Braid-on-Braid, manufactured byWellington Ropes, British Ropes etc. Select the length and diameterbest suited to the “feel” you like and the depth of the water wheremost of your cruising is done. Attach the line to the sounding leadwith an eye-splice if you’re using twisted or Braid-on-Braid line; withan anchor bend if you’re using PIMM Sheet Lash the end of the linesecurely to the standing part when using an anchor bend.

Measurements are made in fathoms (1 fathom is 6 feet or 1.8288meter). “Marks” are indicated by attaching the markers listed below.“Deeps” are indicated by a mark of black paint or, preferably, aseizing of black twine around the line. Measuring from the base ofthe lead, mark as follows:

1 fathom (Deep 1) - Black twine.2 fathoms (Mark 2) - 2 strips of leather.3 fathoms (Mark 3) - 3 strips of leather.4 fathoms (Deep 4) - Black twine.5 fathoms (Mark 5) - White rag.6 fathoms (Deep 6) - Black twine.7 fathoms (Mark 7) - Red rag.8 fathoms (Deep 8) - Black twine.9 fathoms (Deep 9) - Black twine.10 fathoms (Mark 10) - Strip of leather with a hole in it.



11 fathoms (Deep 11) - Black twine.12 fathoms (Deep 12) - Black twine.13 fathoms (Mark 13) - 3 strips of leather.14 fathoms (Deep 14) - Black twine.15 fathoms (Mark 15) - White rag.16 fathoms (Deep 16) - Black twine.17 fathoms (Mark 17) - Red rag.18 fathoms (Deep 18) - Black twine.19 fathoms (Deep 19) - Black twine.20 fathoms (Mark 20) - A line with 2 knots in it.

HOW TO MAKE A LARIAT (LASSO)

The first step in making your Lariat is to put a Crown knot or MathewWalker knot in both ends of the rope. This prevents the rope endfrom unravelling and from slipping through the Honda knot used tomake the noose.

To make the Honda knot, tie a simple overhand knot in your Lariat.Pass the end through the opposite side of the overhand knot fromwhich it protrudes, as illustrated. Pull overhand knot tight, leaving asmall loop. Run the other end of your rope through the honda knot toform the noose. Your Lariat is now finished.



Beginners - Monkey's Fist Page 1

http://www.igkt.net/beginners/monkeys-fist.html 07/23/2004 10:29:02 AM

Monkey's Fist

Make three turns round thehand.

Start making turns passing outsidethe middle of the first three turns.

Complete the threesecond turns.

Make three more turns passing inside thefirst set of turns and outside the secondset.

Tighten up the knot round a soft core, e.g. a ballof ropeyarn. Splice or whip the end to thestanding part

NOTE 1:Avoid the temptation to weight the core with a hard, heavy object. This can convert a usefulknot into a potentially lethal missile. Any self-respecting wharfie will take out his knife and cutoff any such knot.

NOTE 2:The British Admiralty Manual of Seamanship illustrates a slightly different method wherebythe working end comes out alongside the standing part

Beginners - Sea Cadet Knots Page 1

http://www.igkt.net/beginners/sea-cadet-knots.html 07/23/2004 10:26:16 AM

Sea Cadet KnotsThe U.K. Sea Cadet Corps requires that all candidates for promotion must have a basicgrounding in seamanship. These knots are the basic requirement (Seamanship Third Class).A cadet pursuing a Seamanship Specialisation needs to know more.

The table shows each knot and gives a brief note on the way the knot is made and itsapplication on ships. The diagrams show the knots tied loosely so that their construction isclear.

Overhand KnotUsed to start the racking of a hawser

Figure of Eight KnotFor stopping a rope unreeving through a block or to temporarilystop a rope from fraying.

Reef KnotComprises two successive overhand knots.To secure furled canvas (because of the ease with which itmay be spilled). Also used for finishing off the racking on aturned up hawser.WARNING: The reef knot should never be used as a bendto join two ropes that will be under load.

Round Turn and two Half HitchesA round turn made round the spar and two half hitchesmade round the standing part of the line.Securing the head rope of a ship's boat to the ring of a buoy.A very useful general purpose hitch to a spar or ring.



Rolling HitchTwo round turns and one half hitch made round the spar.Securing ropes that have lateral pull e.g. heaving line to thepicking up rope, gun line on the messenger when returninggear after a refuelling at sea (RAS), fastening a line to aspar.

Clove HitchTwo similar half hitches put round the object to which it is tomake fast.Securing items that hang vertically, e.g. paint kettles/fenders attached to guardrail stanchions, fastening a rope toa spar, securing ratlines to the shrouds.

Sheet BendPass the end of one rope through the bight of a secondrope, around both parts of the bight, and under its ownstanding part.Securing the boat's painter to the Jacob's Ladder on aboom, for joining two ropes the same or similar sizes, inbending small sheets to the clews of sails, in bending flagsto halyards where snap hooks are not fitted.



Double Sheet BendPass the end of the bending line through the bight of thestanding line, twice around it and through its own part,giving added security.For securing the boat's painter to the lizard on a boom,joining ropes together when they are not too large,especially when they are of different sizes.

Timber HitchMake a turn around a spar, around the standing part, andthen several around its own part.Add an additional half turn round the spar when the pull onthe spar is lateral.A quick way of securing a rope temporarily around a spar ortimber. Much used in handling cargo.

BowlinePass the end through a loop on the standing part, round thestanding part and back through the loop.Securing the heaving line to the eye of the hawser, for tyingaround a person's waist whilst using a lifeline, e.g. whenaloft, or when making a temporary eye in a rope.It does not slip or jam and can be cast loose instantly, as thetension is released

IGKT: Beginners - Sea Cadet Knots Page 4


Fisherman's BendTake a round turn with the end coming under the standingpart under both turns, with two half hitches on the standingpart. For security the end should be seized.Securing a boat's anchor cable to the anchor, making abuoyrope fast to a buoy .The greater the pull on the rope,the more tightly the parts of the bend are jammed againstthe anchor ring.

Heaving Line KnotProvides a temporary weight to the end of a heaving line, as aquick alternative to the Monkey's Fist.

Beginners - Six Knot Challenge Page 1

http://www.igkt.net/beginners/six-knot-challenge.html 07/23/2004 10:27:13 AM

Six Knot ChallengeThe Six Knot Challenge is to tie six elementary knots against the clock. Guild members oftenhold this as a fun event at shows. It proves popular with all ages, and provides an opportunityfor hands-on learning for children as young as seven.

The world record, set by Clinton Bailey Sr., is an astonishing 8.1 seconds. Under 20 secondsis pretty good - under 15 is very good indeed

.

Sheet Bend

Reef Knot

Round Turn and two Half Hitches

Bowline

Sheepshank

Clove Hitch

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Beginners - Trick Sennit Page 1

http://www.igkt.net/beginners/trick-sennit.html 07/23/2004 10:30:27 AM

Trick Sennit

1. Make two cuts in a leather strap to form three equal width strips joined at each end.2. Pass one end of the strip under the centre strip and over the two edge strips from right

to left.3. Pass the same end under the two edge strips and over the centre strip from right to left.4. Untwist the strips as necessary to flatten out the sennit.5. Repeat to form a longer sennit

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Documents

Ropes and Knots (Rev 3)