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RoghanRoghan

GujaratGujarat

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Roghan WorkRoghan Work

`Roghan` is a thick, bright paste that is`Roghan` is a thick, bright paste that is

used to decorate inexpensive textiles. Oilused to decorate inexpensive textiles. Oil

of safflower, castor or linseed, is boiled forof safflower, castor or linseed, is boiled for

a minimum of twelve hours and thena minimum of twelve hours and then

poured into cold water, thus forming apoured into cold water, thus forming a

thick residue. This is then mixed withthick residue. This is then mixed withchalk, coloured pigment and a bindingchalk, coloured pigment and a binding

agent.agent.

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The sticky roghan mixture is then appliedThe sticky roghan mixture is then applied

to the cloth, with a short stick or metal rod,to the cloth, with a short stick or metal rod,

which is twisted in the hand to get thewhich is twisted in the hand to get the

roghan to come off the stick and on to theroghan to come off the stick and on to the

cloth. Roghan can also be block printed oncloth. Roghan can also be block printed on

the fabric using metal-faced blocks.the fabric using metal-faced blocks.

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Roghan work is now only done at NironaRoghan work is now only done at Nirona

village in the Nakatrana Taluka of Kutch,village in the Nakatrana Taluka of Kutch,

where cloth decorated using this methodwhere cloth decorated using this method

is used as skirt lengths and for wallis used as skirt lengths and for wall

hangings. Formerly it was produced athangings. Formerly it was produced at

Chowbari in eastern Kutch and atChowbari in eastern Kutch and at

Ahmedabad, Baroda and Patan.Ahmedabad, Baroda and Patan.

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In Ahmedabad where skirt and sariIn Ahmedabad where skirt and sari

borders were a speciality, roghan wasborders were a speciality, roghan was

painted on one strip then another plainpainted on one strip then another plain

strip was pressed on top. These were leftstrip was pressed on top. These were left

to dry in the sun and then peeled apart,to dry in the sun and then peeled apart,

leaving a colored pattern on both strips.leaving a colored pattern on both strips.

When roghan has been dusted withWhen roghan has been dusted withmetallic powder it is known as `tinselmetallic powder it is known as `tinsel

work`.work`.

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After a cloth has been painted or blockAfter a cloth has been painted or block

printed, it is left to dry in the shade. Whenprinted, it is left to dry in the shade. When

dry, it is gradually moistened with water,dry, it is gradually moistened with water,

till the roghan softens. Cold or silvertill the roghan softens. Cold or silver

powder is then sprinkled on. Printing inpowder is then sprinkled on. Printing in

this manner is done at Jaipur, Sanganer,this manner is done at Jaipur, Sanganer,

Udaipur, Mandasor, Nasik, Ahmedabad,Udaipur, Mandasor, Nasik, Ahmedabad,Baroda and Bombay, as well as at severalBaroda and Bombay, as well as at several

centres in Madras and Andhra Pradesh.centres in Madras and Andhra Pradesh.

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