RodesForum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011

REFLECTING ON FALL

INSPIRATION: IRELANDSTYLE MATTERS

CLOSET THERAPY

IT’S TRUE.Fall 2011 ushers in another great season of tactile, fun clothing for him and for her. Featured throughout this magazine are the best clothes from the best designers in the world. But what are great clothes without great people! Everyone at Rodes, from talented tailors to our buyers and sales staff, share sthe same passion to be the best. Like a hand-crafted garment, every business detail is crucial. So while you enjoy the awesome fashion pages that follow, please remember that we could not provide such exceptional garments and incomparable services if not for our diverse, talented team of professionals. Add it up... Rodes has 750 years of combined experience.We are blessed to be part of such a great team!See you around town...

Susan and Howard Vogt

‘‘WE SELL THE NICEST CLOTHING IN THE WORLD TO THE NICEST PEOPLE IN TOWN.”

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Passion for Life15MilMil15 Suit

Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633)

1-800-866-3112www.rodes.com

4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTORHans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITORJillian Sprague

PROJECT MANAGERLisa Montemorra

DESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER

STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS

JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;

ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-

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ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER

MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN

PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES2 Welcome Letter6 Happenings 42 Cut from the Same Cloth 50 Profile: A Decade of Agave 56 Profile: Luciano Barbera 72 Heroes: Mucho Inspiration 84 Design: Haute Hospitality

FASHION19 What Rules? 38 Essential Style 40 Embellishments 52 Style: Trends for Men 58 Life Is But a Dream 64 Why Style Matters

DEPARTMENTS 46 Ask Forum for Him48 Ask Forum for Her 74 World Scene76 Travel: The Eyes Have It 80 Wheels: Vintage Road Show 88 End Page: Closet Therapy

Rodes For Him and For Her hosts and participates inmany events annually. Featured are just a few of ourfabulous trunk shows and fundraisers from theSpring-Derby season.

RODESHAPPENINGS

RODESHAPPENINGS

Rodes hosted the annual Derby Divas fundraiser, which donated $105,000 to the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program. Many thanks to the “Divas,” sponsors and patrons who made this possible!

RODESHAPPENINGS

Rodes’ “Customer Appreciation Day” is held annuallyto say “thank you” to you, our loyal friends. Markyour calendar for Saturday, December 3, 2011 andjoin the “real” Santa Claus for kids of all ages.

Rodes hosted the national Fashion Forum apparelgroup in Louisville and some of the retailers joined usto experience the Kentucky Oaks and Derby.Everyone gained knowledge and had fun as well.

RODESHAPPENINGS

COLORS OFPASSION. . .

Orlanda likes designingwith colorful precious and

semi-precious stones,each hand selected for

their brilliance. This yearher passion is Amethystcreating a dazzling and

brilliant effect. She craftsher jewelry using the finestof materials. Her jewelry

was chosen by thePlatinum Guild for the

“Red Carpet” at the GoldenGlobe Awards. Come view

Orlanda’s exciting newcollection exclusively at

Rodes For Her.

W W W. O R L A N D A O L S E N . C O M

D E S I G N E D BY

www.natnast.com

what rules

Photography by Eric Williams Hair & makeup by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa

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herJocelynToby Pomeroy Chistopher Blue

himMontedoroIncotex EtonFerragamo

herNanette LeporeSeasonal WhispersTory Burch

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Lafayette 148 New York 3 Sisters Nanette Lepore

Donna Degnan Cinzia Rocca St. John

JEWELRY Alexis Bittar · Deborah Grivas · Phillipe Audibert · Rachel ReinhardtSeasonal Whispers · Sonya Renee · St. John · Ben Amun · Cindy Borders · Otazu · Rebecca Hook

HANDBAGS Longchamps · Tory Burch · Elaine Turner · DVF · Eric Javits · LockheartBadgley Mischka · Etro · Beirn · Rebecca Minkoff · REDValentino · Nanette Lepore

SHOES Stuart Weitzman · Tory Burch · Elaine Turner

CUT FRORR MTM HE SAMSS E CLOTLL H / H a legacy of dedication

s a passion for excellence.This common thread binds us together in everythingEvery single person at Rodes shareskey. So we would like to take this opportunity to highlight our team of talented we do. We know that every detail is kwe d

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Qualityis Always

Fashionable

ALGO

Q:My girlfriend has been buying mescarves but I have no idea how to

wear them. Are they in style?Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky handknits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpinedesigns, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to yourlook. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrapyour favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try theEuropean way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around yourneck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache.And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a greatfashion accent, whatever the weather.

Q:Magazines show bright color pants,yet on the streets, most guys wear

jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color? Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely anew direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contempo-rary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, givethem a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard towear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England fordecades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket modelsin neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill andcorduroy. With more options than ever in casual trousers,there’s no need to be boring—or bored.

Q:Why buy clothing in a specialty storewhen so much is available online?

While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats.First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods forall accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discountsite or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the“same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independ-ent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners andtrained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputationdepends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closetmakeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closetand update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it alltogether. In addition, store owners stand behind their product,so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.

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ASKFORUM

H i g h l a n d C l e a n e r s. c om

Q:I wear jeans almost everywhere, but wish Ihad alternatives. Can you recommend some

other stylish options? Colored denim is the way to go for fall 2011. Not your typi-cal jeans, the new colored denim adds personality to allkinds of tops and jackets. We love a bright jean (preferablyskinny ankle length with heels or boots) worn with a con-trasting bright top, or else with neutrals. As for your regularblue denim jeans, slim is still in but so are wide legs andflares. You really need both styles this season.

Q:I own a few scarves but am not sure how towear them. Any ideas?

Scarves and shawls are bigger than ever for fall 2011, incashmere, silk and blends. Fold a large square diagonallyand drape it around your shoulders. (Keep one in your hand-bag if you tend to get cold.) Or take a long oblong, fold it inhalf and put the ends through the loop (very European) orelse wrap it a few times around your neck or waist, or evenyour handbag. Stop by and we’d be happy to demonstrate.And while you’re here, check out our newly arrived scarvesin fabulous colors and textures. With a simple top andtrousers, the scarf makes the outfit (and makes a perfect giftif you’re unsure of sizes)!

Q:Are leggings still in style? (I see so manywomen wear them who shouldn’t...)

Most definitely yes! Leggings are a great way to add ayouthful flair to almost any outfit. They make maturewomen look young and chic, they cover winter-white legswhen there’s no time to get a tan, and they’re generally veryslimming.

Our main caveat: leggings are not pants! Make sure towear a long enough top so that your derrière is completelycovered. If you don’t own the right long tops (and there areplenty of gorgeous ones in our store for fall), you can wearyour leggings with a flowy dress or even a pencil skirt andhigh-heeled wedges. In fact, good-quality leggings makeeverything you own look just a little more hip.

Come into the store and we’ll be happy to show you how.

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ASKFORUM

y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans inthe world; that’s still our mission today,” assertsAgave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eightjeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a recordfor us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired

from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back asdesigner of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused onUSA-made quality product.”

How do you compete with bigger brands?I knew the secret of making the best jeans was inthe denim. I found the best denims from boutiquemills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partner-ing with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with pro-duction and laundry in L.A. that made jeans forLevi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentical-

ly and accurately. Agave stands for the highestquality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers

know this and appreciate our commitment.

How tough is it to work with your spouse?I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Twocompanies ago we started working together: I was theowner and she was doing production. We hit tough timesand had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me

to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. Ifound my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get

her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, ourson Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t

compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.

We have the same taste level but complementary skills. Weshare values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.

What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011?The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo,black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excite-ment is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocketmodels, washed down to a beautiful patina.

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Above: Jeff andLauren ShaferLeft: Items fromAgave’s men’sand women’s fallcollections

A DECADE OF AGAVE

AUGUST 2012 WILLMARK THE 10-YEAR

ANNIVERSARY OFAMERICA’S COOLEST

DENIM. BY KARENALBERG GROSSMAN

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FALL AND WINTER ARE JUSTHEATING UP. BY WILLIAM KISSELTRENDS

FORMEN

style

The runways of Milan, New Yorkand Paris showcase fashion at itsmost extravagant. Limited editionwool suits and belts made from the mostexotic skins were paraded out to cause astir—and it worked.

Thankfully there’s more to menswearthan one-off pieces singularly designedwith connoisseurs in mind. This fall,men’s clothing and accessory makershave created some of their most variedand versatile collections to meet theeveryday needs of the stylish modernman. Sharp suits and sportcoats in arich array of autumnal colors andtweedy textures, sporty jackets made ofweatherproof materials, big bold knits insolids and multi-hued variations, andeven a resurgence of cashmere, cor-duroy and camel hair are wearable andon-trend. So whether you’re loungingaround the house, dashing to the office,going for a weekend road trip, or prepar-

A patternedsportcoat can bedressed up ordown, and adouble-breastedcamel peacoatsatisfies threetrends in one.

go tofacebook.com/etonofsweden tell us your favorite thing about Rodes and

be automatically entered into a drawing for a $500

eton shopping spree.

fine shirt maker since 1928

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ing for that big formal affair, thisfall’s offerings have you covered.

DUAL-PURPOSE Perfect for the officein classic pinstripes or subtle win-dowpane patterns, these samejackets come alive at night whenpaired with casual slacks andjeans, coincidentally the way mostreal men now define weekendwear. If you want to try somethingnew, check out this year’s crop ofdouble-breasted jackets, or DBs, asthey’re known. Nearly everydesigner from Armani to Zegna isbanking on double-breasted suitsplaying a starring role in men’swardrobes, this fall and beyond. Tothat end, double-breasted jackets

come in many variations, from lowfour-button models with softshoulders and very straight lapelsto serious, military-inspired highsix- and even eight-button, peaklapel jackets with strong shouldersand streamlined waists. Many ofthese shapes also carry over intoouterwear and sportcoats.

SWEET PEAS The pea coat originat-ed in the 18th century, when thedurable jackets were used to clothesailors and other military person-nel who found the “pij” material(from the Dutch word pijjekkermeaning twilled cloth) used tomake them incredibly warm.Modern menswear makers couldnot have foreseen record cold tem-peratures across the globe whenthey developed their own versionsof these hearty coats, but rest

assured that the double-breastedtoppers are ready to work doubleduty when necessary.

STRIKE A CORD Corduroy comes inmany sizes—from pinwale to extrawide wale—and this season topbrands like Belvest, Kiton, Zegna,Loro Piana and Canali have

employed the time-honored ribbedcloth in everything from jeans,jackets and sport shirts to outer-wear, blazers, and even tailoredclothing. Pinwale corduroy in acotton/cashmere blend is HugoBoss’s top dog this season, whilecashmere kingpin BrunelloCucinelli prefers brushed corduroyfor his collection of quilted coats.

OUT OF THE DESERT Few items in aman’s wardrobe have ever beenmore luxurious than a camel topcoat. Now that familiar topper—astaple of 1930s and 1940sHollywood royalty—has been rein-terpreted in everything from carcoats and high-waisted trousers tosportcoats and even full camel hair(or colored) suits. Designers asdiverse as Hermès, GiorgioArmani, Tom Ford andErmenegildo Zegna offered just apreview of the full camel stampedeto come this winter.

TECHNO? TECH YES! RememberZegna’s imaginative I Jacket withits built-in touch control panel atthe cuff, allowing one to interfacewith his iPod without touching it?Or how about Loro Piana’s innova-tive Storm System technology,which renders even the most opu-lent fabrics like superfine wool andcashmere water repellent? Thosebrilliant ideas have come full circleand spawned a whole generation ofhigh tech, high style garments.Whether it’s a polyester and nylonjacket that actually breathes as thetemperature rises, or a top coatdesigned with touch technologythat lets you hide your electronicsand control them remotely, thisseason, it’s high style to wearsomething high tech.

Technicallyspeaking... Thiswool and down

jacket offersThermore

insulation andtaped seams for

waterproofperformance.

THIS SEASON, IT’S HIGH STYLE TO WEARSOMETHING HIGH TECH.>>

Luciano Barbera alwayswears white for tennis,prefers dress slacks onthe driving range, andwould never consider put-

ting on a colorful, patterned shirtto attend a dinner party. “Can youimagine someone going to dinnerin a fancy collar and checks andstripes?” he once said incredu-lously. “It’s not possible. It willnot match with the situation.”

Barbera appreciates the estab-lished rules of proper dressing,but the dapper designer’s passion

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ITALY’S AMBASSADOR OFSTYLE BY WILLIAM KISSEL

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also extends to the fabrics and fine craftsmanship ofhis clothing and the factories where they are made,which must be in Italy, of course.

This last mandate has proven a bit problematic,because current Italian law allows clothing makers toput ‘Made in Italy’ on their garments even if only onesimple element, such as adding buttons or sewing ona label, is done in that country. Like most true Italiandesigners, he is strongly opposed to regulations thatintentionally deceive the consumer, and he has been apioneer in the efforts to change those laws.

“Italian culture, quality and style shouldbe promoted in the right way and not getjeopardized by other clothing producersoutside the country. The customer has theright to know the truth,” he insists.Barbera has good reason to beproud of Italian style and pro-duction. Italy is unquestion-ably the producer of thefinest luxury fashion in theworld. Barbera’s collection,very much a product of theman himself, is no excep-tion. Understated anddeluxe, like Italian cash-mere, is how friends andcolleagues describe bothBarbera and his label. Indeed,admits the designer, “I’vealways been considered thenatural ambassador of every-thing we produce.”

This fall, what Barberahas produced is a trilogyof designs inspired by theyears 1930, 1940 and 1971—three signifi-cant high periods in 20th century fashion.He hopes to entice more 30- and 40-some-things to classic style by creating hybridproducts a man can wear in unexpected ways.(To wit, a tech-inspired down vest is faced insuper 150s navy chalk stripe suit fabric to

deliberately blur the lines between casual and dress.)Barbera’s suits, while clearly influenced by old-

world English tailoring, are designed in the Milanesemanner that stresses softly padded, narrow shouldersand a gently tapered waist. Yet most of his suits andsportcoats are made not in Milan but in southernItaly, by many of the same Neapolitan tailors produc-ing clothing for other world-renowned brands. “Theyhave a saying in Naples: ‘It’s like a second skin.’ Thisis exactly how a well-made suit should fit,” he says.

Unlike other bespoke suit makers who emphasize

the hand-make of their garments, Barbera’s cloth-ing reflects a perfect balance between man andmachine. “You can have a very strong suit made

entirely by hand that is ugly because the personwho made it has no style or sense of proportions. So

what is the appeal?” asks Barbera. “The key isto have the ability to generate harmony inthe garment but to make your suit wherethey are used to making the best suits.”

What makes the Luciano Barbera col-lection so distinctive is more than just thetailoring. “I really consider the fabric theroot of my clothing,” says Barbera, whostarted out as a textile designer. Notonly are his fabrics exclusive to hisdesigns, they are all developed in houseat the Lanificio Carlo Barbera mill.

Another important attribute of theBarbera line is the attention to detailhe lavishes on every object. “It’s impor-tant that every single piece in the col-

lection offers something special,” addsthe designer, unable to name a favorite

design from his label. “It’s like asking aman which is your favorite child; itsimply can’t be done,” he says.

Among Barbera’s favorite expressions: sprez-zatura, the Italian word for detachment, but hesays a better way to think of it is quiet confi-dence or low-key style. “The most forceful state-ment is understatement,” he says. “It is the phi-losophy behind everything I do.”

Opposite page:Luciano Barbera

This page: Amen’s look from

Barbera’s fall2011 collection

Understated and deluxe, like Italian cashmere, is howfriends and colleagues describe both Barbera and his label.

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Fall 2011 has us dreamingabout texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft waysto stay warm this fall...

life is but a

PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio Kurhajek | STYLING: Wendy McNett | HAIR & MAKEUP: Claire Bailey

DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM AAAAAAAAAAAAA LLLLLLLLLLLLLLIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTLLLLLLLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEEEEE DDDDDDDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM OOOOOOOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF.........

WHYSTYLE MATTERSMaking a good impressionhas never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier!

Studies show that well-dressed men

get higher paying jobs, enjoy better

social status and are more attractive to

the opposite sex.

Here are some simple tips on how

to spruce up your look, because

yes, style matters!

BUILDING A GREATWARDROBE IS SIMPLERTHAN YOU THINK.

WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL

FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS)

CAN BE BUILT.

1. Dressy Casual 2. Sartorial 3. Sporty Casual

simple updates forall your modes...

Plaid ClassicA great neutral

plaid adds instant

style to jeans and

moves gracefully

from offi ce to

dinner.

Color StatementA bolder plaid

in rich fall colors

adds excitement

to solid basics

and layers well

with sweaters.

THE ESSENTIAL SPORTCOATTHE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL

Dressy Casual

No single item is more effective in transforming

a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes

a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and

concealing all the right body parts...

UnconstructedA soft, unlined

jacket is an

indispensible

basic this season.

It looks casually

elegant and fi ts like

a second skin!

CollegiateCorduroyToasty warm and

versatile, corduroy

has come back

with a vengeance.

Soft CashmereUnconstructed

and elegant, it

works with dress

pants, jeans and

everything in

between.

The IntellectualAdd a sweater

to a windowpane

wool suit for a

super smart look.

The Young TurkA well-cut dark

suit can take you

everywhere... and

a great wool tie is

an easy way

to add some

personality.

The PlayerA fun shirt (without

a tie) with an open

suit jacket is a

refreshing

upgrade

to jeans.

Sartorial

FITThe New

Slimmer

Silhouette

is here

to stay

From a fi rst interview to the corner offi ce,

one properly fi tting neutral suit in a transitional

fabric is an essential basic for the well-

dressed man.

(NEW)

The StatesmanHerringbone in

warm fall tones

plus a buttoned

vest spells

confi dence.

The MogulNavy pinstripe

suit, blue shirt,

red tie, slim cut...

need we say

more?

whichSUITSyou?

Sporting Event With ClientA quilted, fi tted,

double breasted-

jacket is as warm

as it is fl attering.

Weekend OutingCold, blustery

days can be faced

in style with an

elegant update to

the classic parka.

Soccer SidelinesThrow a great

scarf over a

versatile pullover

and be the

best looking

dad on the fi eld.

Country DriveGo antiquing and

lunching in style in

a chocolate suede

driving jacket,

also perfect for

everyday.

Sporty Casual

RELAXEDSTYLE

Whether it’s

the weekend,

or you just

want it to

feel that way.

When Mucho Macho Man came inthird at this year’s Kentucky Derby,it was a triumph in more ways thanone. In the 137-year history of therace, Kathy Ritvo was only the 14thfemale trainer in the Run for theRoses. What’s more, she’d been

diagnosed in 2001 with a degenera-tive heart disease, was in and out ofhospitals for the next seven years,and finally received a donor heart in2008 when doctors said she hadabout a week left to live. Here, in anexclusive interview, Ritvo shares herphilosophy of horse training, ofDerby fashion, and of life.

How did you first get involvedin training horses?I grew up in a horse-racing family. Ihave two brothers: one’s a trainer

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TRAINER KATHY RITVO REMINDS US TO FOLLOW OUR DREAMS.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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MUCHO INSPIRATION

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and one’s a jockey. I’ve alwaysloved horses: I got my trainer’slicense on my 18th birthday andI’ve been doing it for 23 years! Ihad another brother who was ajockey who died (while waiting fora transplant) from the same heartcondition I had. So one of the bestparts of my life today is being aspokesperson for organ donation.How are you feeling? I feel super! Really good. I’velearned to take life one day at atime. Nothing really bothers meanymore; I take everything with agrain of salt. When my kids (ages17 and 18) drive me crazy, I smile:I’m just glad I’m around to be driv-en crazy. I live a miracle every day,

which has made me wiser.What does it take to be agreat trainer?Patience. You have to treat eachhorse as an individual. Tell us a little about MuchoMacho Man.He’s seriously macho: just look athim! He’s an athlete; he has longlegs, like a basketball player. (Andhe’s a June foal so he’s young: he’llonly get bigger and better…) He’s alittle silly: when photographerswant to take pictures of him, he’llstop and pose. And he’s got an ego:he knows how good he is. Mostimportant, he’s relaxed. He doesn’twaste energy and loves to train.You know, when he was born(about the same time I was waitingfor my new heart), they thought hewas born dead. But they strokedhim and massaged him and hesuddenly hopped up and took off

running. So for him to be able toaccomplish what he has, to comein third at the Derby and run theTriple Crown, is pretty amazing!What does he eat? Does heget any injections?We’re cooking for him right now:oats and rice bran. He also getselectrolytes and Triple Crownhorse feed. He likes to eat late: asmall portion in the morning and alot at 9:00 p.m.; by 9:30 he’s asleep.

He gets no injections: he’s ababy and I wouldn’t do that with ababy. He has a chiropractor and anacupuncturist but never injections.That’s why he could run the TripleCrown: we never abused his body.Do you have any rituals

before a big race?I go to sleep early the night before.My staff is here; I have total confi-dence in them. As for supersti-tions: 13 is a lucky number for me.My birthday is the 13th, I got mynew heart on the 13th, and Macho’snumber was 13 in the Derby.What is it about the Derbythat makes it so special?It’s just a totally exhilarating expe-rience! Prior to the race, my kidshad been mad at me for beingaway so much but when they gotto this year’s Derby, they were inawe. The purse is double, that’spart of it. And 165,000 people, alldressed up, that also adds to themagic…So you dress up for Derby?Of course! I got my dress andshoes and hat at Rodes. It was agreat hat: black with a purple bowon one side… and I had my hair

done. It was so much fun!What’s your personal style?I don’t know how to describe it andyou’d never guess it from lookingat me at the moment, but when Ileave the barn, I actually lookhuman! I love to shop in boutiquesas opposed to big departmentstores. I love shoes (StuartWeitzman) and handbags(Burberry). Actually, a lot of myfavorite things were bought for meby my husband! (He’s the VP ofRacing at Gulfstream Park inFlorida; when I met him, I was atrainer and he was a jockey…)If you weren’t a trainer, whatmight you be doing?More charity work for sure. After

getting my life back, I have astrong desire to help others…When I was in Louisville for Derby,I did a public service commercialfor Kentucky Organ Donors(Macho is in it too!) and I got somany phone calls from peoplewaiting for transplants. And I stillkeep in contact with many of thembecause the waiting is so tough...Having someone who’s beenthrough it reach out to you is reallyhelpful: I know it was for me. Sounds like life is good…It is. I love my horses, and mydogs. I love being a trainer. Ofcourse nothing is as important asraising my kids but I think that byworking at what I love, I’m teach-ing them to follow their dreams.When a critical illness happens,it’s a wake-up call. No one is prom-ised tomorrow; be sure to do whatyou love today.

OF COURSE I DRESS UP FOR DERBY! I GOT MY DRESS (A BEAUTIFULFLORAL PRINT) AND SHOES AND HAT AT RODES. IT WAS A GREAT HAT:BLACK WITH A PURPLE BOW ON ONE SIDE…”

COLD COMFORTA

s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time forwinter sports, a cozy new coat and aheart-warming cocktail. After ice skating,

cross country skiing or snowshoeing at theLake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondackmountains, guests keep out the chill with thehotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. BartenderLori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater,shares the recipe for this snug concoction.Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz.Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of NewYork State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mixvodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrupin a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fash-ioned glass. Top with cream and garnish witha mint leaf. Cheers!L

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Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

GREEK REVIVALA

few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slightrise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene isquiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi

monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brillianttuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member ofHistoric Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from theoriginal dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditionalCretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as iftime had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.

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COUNTRY CHICI

n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eight-room house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel JohnBowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s

the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection ofEnglish and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular withantiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) toshop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, JayneThompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’sRestaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients andpaired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning diningroom filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-centu-ry Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with EnglishIronstone china.

GILT TRIPA

long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing,guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot ofthe Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for

the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauf-feured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted choco-lates and a bottle of Champagne are provided),which brings you to the Money Museum. Here,caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, whereover $20 million dollars worth of paper money andrare coins, including the most comprehensive col-lection of American gold coinage in existence, isstored. Between courses, the curator of the muse-um joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminatesat the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef RémyFünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.

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A STRETCH OF BEACHA

mong the many trendy—and usually pricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish eventthat’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, resi-

dents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and firsttimers alike, can join certified instructors for “BeachYoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate SouthBeach insider happening, which attracts vacationingBroadway stars and fashion editors, among others, hasbeen meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for thepast 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend anhour reaching new horizons. D

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Green visions abound in thegardenscapes of the Dublincountryside. By David Lyon

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When filmmakers want to evoke the formal lush countrysideof Georgian Ireland or the mythical Celtic landscape of dap-pled glades, they train their cameras on Powerscourt Estate,one of the greenest corners of the Emerald Isle. Set onDublin’s doorstep in County Wicklow, the gated lands origi-nally surrounded a 13th-century castle that helped guardthe city. In 1731, the lord of Powerscourt upgraded to theiconic Georgian manor that still occupies the high ground,gazing across a rich array of gardens and over a small laketo the hunched backs of the Wicklow Mountains.

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For full immersion in the lifestyleof latter-day Irish gentry, retire tothe Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt,where you can nurse a tumbler ofTyrconnell single-malt Irishwhiskey on the terrace. The 200-room resort opened in 2007 and isjust a five-minute saunter from thePowerscourt manor. Its statelyPalladian architecture andGeorgian-inspired décor are com-plemented by the sybaritic ESPAspa and invisible (but indispensa-ble) contemporary technology.

Concierges can advise guests onthe best woodland hikes and runsand provide maps and electronickeys to the hidden, gated parts ofthe estate. They can also arrangehorseback riding through thecountryside, golf on either ofPowerscourt’s two 18-hole courses,or fly fishing for sea-run trout onthe River Dargle.

Dublin is only a half hour away,making it possible to combine therustic pleasures of the Irish coun-tryside with the urban rush of theIrish capital. It’s worth making apilgrimage to the august neo-Gothic grounds of Trinity Collegeto see the Book of Kells displayedin the library. Created in the 9thcentury, this stunning volume ofthe Gospels is one of the earliestsurviving illuminated manuscriptsand an Irish national treasure.

The Irish also treasure the out-sized personalities of their artists.At the National Gallery of Ireland,one section is dedicated to theYeats clan: portraitist John ButlerYeats and his sons, poet and some-times painter William Butler Yeatsand modern Expressionist master

Jack Yeats. The gallery backs ontoMerrion Square, one of Dublin’sfinest Georgian squares, whererows of elegant townhouses aredistinguished by differently col-ored doors and hand-burnished

brass fixtures. Oscar Wilde lived at1 Merrion Square from 1855 to1876, and should you wonderwhere he wet his whistle, a goodbet might be O’Donoghue’s, a pubestablished in 1792 only a blockaway. The barkeeps still pull a finepint of Guinness, and the room isfamous for its nightly live music.

The Ritz-Carlton has its ownpub, McGills, where the AlbaquirkyTurkeys play a driving version oftraditional Irish music. The resort’sgastronomic jewel, though, is itscasual fine-dining restaurant,Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt,the London-based chef’s first Irishventure. Conceived as a farm-to-fork venue relying intensely onIrish products, the restaurant pro-vides a literal taste of the country-side in a country about the size ofWest Virginia. The lamb is raisedless than 20 minutes away, thevegetables come from an organicfarm a mile down the road. As forthe mushrooms, the kitchen staffforages them in the woods andmeadows of Powerscourt.

Previous page: The 19th-centuryPepperpot Towerwas modeled on

a peppermillbelonging to the

seventh ViscountPowerscourt,

Mervyn Wingfield.This page, top: A

fountain inWalled Garden at

PowerscourtGardens

Center: GordonRamsay’s County

Wicklow lambwith potato

galette Bottom: The

Mountain ViewSuite at Ritz-

CarltonPowerscourt

YOU COULD SPEND DAYS AT POWERSCOURT SAVORING THE IRISH GENIUS FORLANDSCAPE GARDENING OR WANDERING LIKE MYTHIC KING FERGUS IN THE GENTLEWILDS OF THE WOODLANDS AND MEADOWS OF THE 1,000 ACRE ESTATE.

It all started earlyone Saturday, when mybest friend showed up at my housedriving his uncle’s 1959 AustinHealy Sprite. He parked it outsidemy bedroom window and blastedits air horn, prompting me tovault three feet out of bed. Wespent the day driving aroundBoston in the coolest car I hadever been in, and I promisedmyself right then that when I wasold enough to drive, I would buy aBritish sports car. The day cameshortly after my sixteenth birthday,and nothing was the same againfor me. I now have a humble col-lection of these wonderful cars and

drive them as often as possible.There are many extraordinary

automobile museums around theworld, but also numerous privatecollectors whose magnificent carsare worth fortunes. Perhaps theyalso had friends who introducedthem to the world of classic cars.Or it may have simply been themajesty of the machines thatinspired them to covet and collectthese amazing vehicles.

One such man is Richard Myers, aformer math teacher turnedEuropean car dealer who is nowretired and lives in New Jersey andRhode Island. A collector of vintagecars for over 40 years, his 38 classics

include some very rare machines.Like me, his first was an MGA thathe bought while in college. Backthen British sports cars were rela-tively new to the area where helived, so he soon learned how to domechanical repairs on his own. Hehas always considered these beauti-ful cars not just transportation, butrolling works of art. After college, hebought and restored a Jaguar, fol-lowed by Rolls Royces and Bentleys,which he fixed up and sold for prof-it. After a while he realized that heno longer wanted to sell the cars herestored, and his classic car collec-tion was born. It was the 1970s, andclassic car values were nothing like

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CAUTION: MAY INSPIRE SERIOUS GARAGE ENVY BY DAVID ROSE

The 1953 Allard J2X

BEAUTIFUL CARS ARE NOT JUST TRANSPORTATION, BUTROLLING WORKS OF ART.wh

eels

VINTAGE ROAD SHOW

FALL 2011

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they are today: he was able to acquiresome amazing vehicles, which intoday’s market would be untouchable.

nd he’s still in the market. “Iwould love to find a perfectFerrari Dino and aPorsche 356Speedster,” Meyers con-fides. “Both cars wouldhave to be black: I base

my color sense on the design of thecar and those two cars say ‘black’ tome... I just bought two 550 MarinelloFerraris, and I couldn’t go with thetraditional red or yellow peopleassociate with Ferraris; one is silverand the other titanium.”

All of Myers’ cars are drivable,and drive them he does. His currentcollection, which includes an AstonMartin, a 1954 Corvette and a 289Cobra, is essentially a microcosm ofsports car history.

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OTHER COVETABLE COLLECTIONS• When Ken Lingenfelter, whose father was a GM

executive, was growing up, stylish high perform-ance automobiles were a way of life. He boughthis first Corvette in 1977 and has since assem-bled a magnificent collection of 150 Corvettesand other Detroit muscle cars, as well as selectexotics from around the world.

• The Simeone Foundation Museum outside ofPhiladelphia, although now open to the public,began as a private collection assembled by neu-rosurgeon Dr. Fred Simeone. This collection cen-ters on racing cars from around the world and isconsidered one of the best in the country.

• In summer, cream-of-the-crop classic cars gatherat Concours d’Elegance events around the world.In the U.S., Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance isthought to be the best. The Greenwich, CT eventis considered the best on the East Coast.

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IS IT SELF-EXPRESSION OR NARCISSISM? EITHER WAY, DESIGNER HOTELS ANDRESTAURANTS ARE FASHION’S NEWEST HOT SPOTS. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

HauteHOSPITALITYIn the 1970s fashion designers were satisfied to have their names scrawled on the back pockets of your jeans.Over the ensuing decade, they discovered a way to put their stamp on everything from fragrance, sunglassesand leather goods to furniture and bedding. Now they want you to experience their own lavish lifestyles byenveloping you in their signature luxury hotel suites and posh dining rooms.

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The trend escalated this pastyear when nearly a dozen newhotels were autographed by topdesigners—from Giorgio Armani’ssleek, ambitious Armani HotelDubai and Bulgari’s bucolicBalinese retreat, to Missoni’s styl-ish Scottish hideaway andChristian Lacroix’s French boulan-gerie-turned-bed and breakfast.

It’s not only the newest way topropagate their names: designersinsist the evanescent hotel or din-ing experience acts as a kind of“live-in portfolio” of their work.

Giorgio Armani features custom-made furniture and decorativeobjects from his Armani/Casahome collection in his namesakehotels, the second of which isscheduled to open in Milan earlynext year. “I wanted to see how thecollection would look whenapplied to real spaces,” says thedesigner, who adds that the ideagives hotel guests an opportunityto sample the furnishings in a liv-ing situation before investing inthem for their own homes.Recognizable designer fabrics andfurnishings also encourage gueststo form an emotional connectionwith the hotel—and the brand.

And while hotels offer the oppor-tunity to live like Armani orVersace for days or even weeks,

restaurants can offer the same“lifestyle experience” in a matterof hours. Take Ralph Lauren,whose fashion forays range fromthe highbrow sartorial chic ofLondon’s Savile Row to the RockyMountain highs of Colorado.Inside Ralph’s, located in thedesigner’s Paris store, Laurenbrings his idealizedworld to life. Thechic eatery isinfused with hissignatureBritish-Americanastamp, from thevintage leatherseating and eques-trian-themed artworkright down to the menu,which includes beefraised on Lauren’s own RRL Ranch.“The story of the menu is like theclassic film An American in Paris,”says Lauren. “The food is genuine-ly American, but set in a mood thatis genuinely international.”

In a more flashy setting, designduo Domenico Dolce and StefanoGabbana imbued their Milaneserestaurant Gold with a mix of exot-ic materials—pink and grayarabesque-patterned marble, highgloss steel, gold leather—that theyconsider to be architectural equiv-

alents of their clothing. While today’s designers would

like you to believe they inventedthe haute hospitality trend, thathonor actually goes to PierreCardin, who bought the fashion-able French bistro Maxims in 1981and has subsequently turned itinto an international brand. “I sus-

pect if you look hardenough you could find

Pierre Cardin’s nameon a screwdriver,”jokes Americandesigner ToddOldham, whoseown foray into the

hospitality gamestarted in 1999 with

the opening of The Hoteland its adjoining Wish restau-

rant in Miami, and continued thisyear with the christening of 20 newsuites. Oldham is now in negotia-tions to design a hotel in Chicago.

“It’s very smart of developers tofind tastemakers from other [cre-ative] areas who can enhance thehotel experience,” says Oldham,who believes fashion designers arenaturally more sensitive to aes-thetics, form and function thantypical hotel designers. “Becausewe tend to focus on making youlook good, we can also make youlook good in a room.”

Previous page,clockwise from

top left: BottegaVeneta for the St.

Regis in Rome;Dolce & Gabbana

Gold restaurantin Milan; the bar

at Gold Below, left:

Cavalli Club,Florence

Right: RalphLauren’s Ralph’srestaurant, Paris

DESIGNER FABRICSAND FURNISHINGS

ENCOURAGE GUESTS TOFORM AN EMOTIONAL

CONNECTION WITH THEHOTEL—AND THE BRAND.

Louisville | Cincinnati | Lexington | Nashville | Indianapolis

slmag.net

{Louisville’s Finest}

slmag.net July/August 2011 five dollars

88

SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERSTO LIFE’S QUESTIONSAREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN.THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET.BY JAMES RARUS

A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm,used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is?You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. Iplay menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate,though I’m not a doctor.

Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants filltheir shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, trans-forming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxu-ry. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, theclothes he pulls out each morning helping to determineif people will buy into his personality, business acumen,credibility, or whatever he’s selling.

I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneledcloset. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenlyspaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows,his belts and ties were arranged meticulously.

I thought about this client, a bachelor with a highfinance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair,beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters!Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect speci-men, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics,and not one cashmere knit!

I looked around his spectacular apartment with itsexpansive views of Central Park and envisioned thewomen he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceivedwardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud.

Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favoritestore as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazzsong with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensionsto help showcase your own unique qualities.

Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this musicmetaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen two-and four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in mas-culine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is nowbalanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks,V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces nowdouble as sportswear. His love life has improved, too:wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knitcardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams.

When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say,“I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that whenthey get dressed each day, they’re energized andinspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think toomuch! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”

CLOSET THERAPY

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