Rijeka In Your Pocket No12

N°12 - complimentary copywww.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2012

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

S

RIJEKA

A haven for health tourismState of art private clinics in dentistry, aesthetic surgery, wellness...

City of culture From arty to urban, traditional to contemporary

20Europe’s best city

guides for more than 20 years

20

Rijeka 12.indd 1Rijeka 12.indd 1 6/14/2012 8:18:48 PM6/14/2012 8:18:48 PM


3CONTENTS

Summer 2012rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Introducing Rijeka 5Get to know our fair city

Arriving in Rijeka 6Lost? Help is at hand.

Basics 8Things you just need to know

Culture & Events 9Go crazy!

Where to stay 15Wherever you lay your hat...

Restaurants 19For the gourmet that lies within

Cafés 23Sipping Mediterranean style

Nightlife 24Because you’re just so groovy

What to see 26All the sights you shouldn’t miss

Opatija 36Joy in Opatija

Contents

Mail & Phones 39It’s good to talk

Getting around 40Transport map 41

Diving in the Adriatic 43This issues special feature

Shopping 45Helping you get rid of that extra cash

Lifestyle Directory 47The most essential support

Business Directory 48Become a millionaire in no time

Health Tourism 49This issue‘s special feature

Kvarner 58Find the best beaches of all

Maps & IndexStreet index 62City centre map 62City map 64County map 67

The play Krletka (“Cage”) is sure to set the stage alight at the Opatija Summer Festival

Is there anything nicer than the sensation of sun-warmed stones on your skin? Photo by Mile Franjić


4 FOREWORD

Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Editorial Editor Višnja ArambašićContributor Nataly Anderson, Jonathan Bousfield, Frank JelinčićAssistant Editor Kristina ŠtimacResearcher Anita Piplović, Blanka ValićLayout & Design Marko Sirovina, Gordan KarabogdanPhotos Rijeka In Your Pocket team, TZ Rijeka, rijeka.photonet.hr

Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja ArambašićSales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević[email protected]

Cover: Tourist Board Rijeka

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992-2012. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Editor’s noteThe editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Rijeka In Your PocketDraškovićeva 66, ZagrebCroatiatel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 [email protected]

ISSN 1845-5514©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja

What comes to your mind when you think of a holiday in Croatia? If you’re from the English-speaking world, probably Dubrovnik or somewhere down there in the south, while if you’re from Germany or Italy there’s a good chance you’ll also be in on the charms of Istria to the north. Somehow, the part of the coast in between, called Kvarner, has been forgotten, and its capital Rijeka relegated to the status of a transit point.Many people know about the floral playground of Opatija, Rijeka’s elegant neighbour, as the crowds that gather there testify. But how about Cres? Vrbnik? Here’s something we could call a best-kept secret. All these years of being overlooked have allowed such places to retain their charm, and now they are being brought into a new era of tourism in a way that avoids the concrete and commercialism that is the fate of so many seaside towns.The entire Kvarner region around Rijeka has become somewhat of a health destination due to its location, flora and fauna, sea breeze air and serene natural surroundings. A trend in holiday makers combining the fun of a vacation whislt also seeking specific medial treatments is rapidly growing. Our feature has a complete run down on state of the art clinics in dentistry, aesthetic surgery, allergic, therapeutic, and wellness treatments that are second to none and highly recommended.Adventure enthusiasts can take the plunge and head out to the reefs and sites dedicated to all forms of scuba diving. Our huge special gives you an insight on the who, what and where of scuba diving. Whether you’re a beginner or advanced, certified instructors will adhere to your every need. Choose from coral sites, ship wrecks, and deep dives to night dives, an underwater voyage slash venture awaits you.We hope you’ll enjoy reading about everything that Rijeka has to offer, and be inspired to spend a few days here exploring. And we hope that our tips for places to visit in Kvarner will allow you to enjoy the sparkling blue seas, the vistas, the hidden oases and the hospitality of the Kvarner region at its very best.

QR CodeThis QR code contains the website address, http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka for Rijeka In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image andprint it out any way you want.

It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with more on the way) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can now be downloaded for free from the AppS-tore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

The World of In Your Pocket

CzechRepublic

Poland

Romania

SerbiaBosnia

Kosovo

AlbaniaGreece

FYR Macedonia

BulgariaMontenegro

ItalyCroatia

SloveniaAustria

Switzerland

Ukraine

Belarus

Lithuania

Latvia

EstoniaRussia

GermanyBelgium

Netherlands

NorthernIrelandIreland


5INTRODUCING RIJEKA


If you notice a lot of references to a certain Karolina when you’re in Rijeka, that’s because she’s a much-loved historical figure from the town. Not without good reason – there’s nothing better than a strong woman, and more courageous than this you could not find. During the Napoleonic wars, a British squadron attacked Rijeka to wrest it from the French, but started a campaign of plunder and torching. Brave (and pretty) Karolina approached the British squadron leader and begged him to spare Rijeka’s people – and, amazingly, he did. Wow, and they didn’t even have Max Factor in those days. Apparently only one cannonball was fired – the one you see embedded in the wall of St Vitus’ Cathedral. Enjoy a drink in the beautiful Karolina bar on Rijeka’s quayside, where you’ll see pictures of Karolina of Rijeka, or try the light, fluffy Karolina cake, a speciality of the Cont patisserie.

Karolina Riječka

Compare the list of daily necessities:1kg of beef 65kn €8.8510 eggs 12kn €1.63McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn €2.32Loaf of white bread 7kn €0.95Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn €0.6820 Marlboros 22kn €2.99

Exchange rates (as of 12. 06. 2012): US$1 = 5,08kn € 1 =7,5kn

Market values

Although there are traces of Stone Age inhabitation in the area, it was the Liburnians who built the first significant settlement on Trsat hill (or, as they called it, Tarsat), to defend their harbour from attack. The Romans drove out the Illyrians in the 13th century. Trsat ceased to be the most important settlement, as the Romans founded the town of “Tarsatica” on the land where Rijeka’s old centre now lies. The area around St Vitus’ Cathedral was given the name Flumen Sancti Viti after the city’s patron saint. In the 14th century, a powerful family of Croatian counts from Krk Island increased their power over the territories of the mainland. Later, this dynasty took the name Frankopan, and their influence can be seen everywhere around Rijeka – they built the shrine at Trsat, and many churches and fortifications on the coastline, as well as on Krk island itself. Over the centuries that followed, various European powers gained influence over Rijeka and its surroundings, and each left its mark. One of the most influential for the development of the city was the Austrian period, and many of Rijeka’s great buildings were designed by the same people that built the cities of that empire. Rijeka was connected to Vienna and Budapest by road and rail, and proclaimed a free port. These transport links contributed massively to the development of Rijeka as an industrial city. The city’s fortunes shifted as it changed hands, but after reintegration into Croatia after the Second World War, it became one of the driving forces of the economy and is now the third biggest city in the republic after Zagreb and Split.Look over the Rijeka waterfront from a gull’s eye view on the ferryboat, and you’ll encounter a mass of cheeky winks from the shuttered windows of the buildings that line the quayside and clamber up the hills. Rijeka is a window onto the world not only for Croatia, but also for a huge part of Central Europe. Here, the Adriatic bites deep into the European landmass. The Austro-Hungarians turned this to their advantage, and founded one of the Empire’s busiest ports here. Shipping became the second stream of lifeblood for the city – the first, of course, is water itself.Rijeka, exposed to the wide world for so many years now, is cosmopolitan in outlook and young in spirit - you can feel it as you walk along the elegant Korzo, get to know the history of the city, the forward-looking people and their culture. And it’s capital of Kvarner, which truly has so much to discover. Travel west, and see how the lush Opatija Riviera, dotted with fairytale villas reminds you of the Italian lakelands. Penetrate into the hinterland or head south along the coast road and see a chain of forts, the legacy of the local nobles. Discover the charms of the islands – each one so different, but all surrounded by sparkling sea and a climate that returns to you the life that the hectic pace we live by robs us of day by day.

A word of warning: if you’re travelling by car to Rijeka from Italy, you’ll have a tough time finding your way unless you have a satellite navigation system or know a few words of Italian. Italian road signs don’t show the name “Rijeka”, but “Fiume” – which means “river” in Italian. And guess what “rijeka” means in Croatian? River.Why? Well, take the highway which traverses behind the city and you’ll come to a spectacular gorge through which the river Rječina runs. Travelling the main road into Rijeka itself, you’ll drive right along it. The Rječina was one of the reasons why this area was settled before Roman times – both providing water for life and shelter for the ships of the Liburnians, an Illyrian tribe famed for their skills as sailors. What’s harder to spot today is that the ground under Rijeka bubbles with underground springs. Water is absolutely central to the personality and existence of Rijeka – bright, refreshing, life-giving and always moving on.

Rijekatelephone code is +385-51


6 ARRIVING IN RIJEKA


Kvarner County Tourism Office N.Tesle 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 29 88, fax (+385-51) 27 29 09, [email protected], www.kvarner.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the Adriatic Čikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33, [email protected], www.kvarner.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. June 18 - October Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Rijeka Tourist Board D-2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 31 57 10, www.tz-rijeka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tourist Information Center D-2, Korzo 33a, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82. Moving to the new address Korzo 14 as of July. Tel. no. and opening hours as before. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 -14:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.

Tourist information

By boatA seafaring city since before the Romans set foot on these lands, an arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide.You can buy tickets for Jadrolinija ferries at the Jadrolinija office and at European travel agencies using the START booking system.Jadrolinija C-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. 21 14 44 - Ticket sales and exchange bureau. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable service. Hypo Bank cash machine outside. Timetable in the window. June - September 30 Open Mon, Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. October - May 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

By busThough small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:00, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the station, cost 2kn, pissoir 1kn. Public phones are on the platforms. Shops and cafes: Several snack bars, news kiosks and mini-markets work all night. There are a few cafes where you can refresh body and soul when you arrive. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).

By carFrom Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre. From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka. From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 60kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. (Prices are expected to rise by 15% as of 1 June).From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal. Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

By planeRijeka Airport-Zračna luka Rijeka, Hamec 1, Omišalj tel. 84 20 40, 060 30 03 01, www.rijeka-airport.hr; [email protected] airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Autotrolej buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

By trainRijeka Train Station - Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka A-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, National info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr. Rijeka’s train station is in a lovely old Hungarian style building. It has all the basic services you need. Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The new HZ (Croatian Railways) website has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes. Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) window,open 09:10 - 20:40 and domestic, open 05:10 - 17:10, Fri and the day before public holidays 05:15 - 20:00. You can buy tickets on board out of hours, bu t i t’s best to reserve in advance for international journeys.Changing money: There’s a cash machine en route to the Zagreb platform and 24-hour cash machine outside the station building . There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikole Tesle Street opposite. Left luggage: Lockers; 04:00 - 23:00, cost: 15 - 20kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean. Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1. Shops and cafes: There are a couple of newsstands by the entrance. Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051-if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other cab companies).

www.inyourpocket.com



ARRIVING IN RIJEKA

ŠTEDNJA SE ISPLATI.MUDRO UOKVIRENA ŠTEDNJA.GROWING YOUR MONEY.WISELY STRUCTURED SAVINGS.

SPAREN LOHNT SICH.KLUG GESTALTETES SPARBUCH.IL RISPARMIO CONVIENE.RISPARMI BEN STRUTTURATI.

5,00%EUR


8 BASICS


Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612Rijeka (April 2011): 135,385Territory Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy.Rijeka is capital of the Primorska-Goranska županija “Littoral and Highlands County”, which encompasses the Opatija Riviera to the west, the coast to the east including Novi Vinodolski, a mountainous hinterland and the islands as far south as Ilovik. This all covers an area of 3,582km2 on land; 4,398.64km2 of sea, the coastline is 1,065km long and the highest point is the Kula peak of Bjelolasica, the mountain where the Croatian ski team train, which stands at a proud 1,534m.Climate Sub-Mediterranean on the coast; temperate continental to mountainous.Local time Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Rijeka it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Basic data

Climate

0

100

50

25

7520

10

0

30

-10

Rainfall, mmTemperature, °C

-20 J F M A M J J A OS DN

January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 8 EasterApril 9 Easter MondayMay 1 International Workers' Day June 7 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland

Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the AssumptionOctober 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ DayDecember 25 ChristmasDecember 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

National holidays

CustomsAll major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine and 2 litres of dessert wine or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. Export approval is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture at Užarska 26 (D-2, Open 09:00 - 13:00, tel.+385 - 51 31 13 00). For further details www.carina.hr.

ElectricityThe electricity supply is 220V, 50Hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

ReligionThese days Croatia is fair ly mono tone in re li gious terms. Having al ways ex ist ed on the frontiers of three religions; Cath o lic, Orthodox and Mus lim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the pop u-la tion has be come over whelm ing ly Cath o lic with the 2001 Cen-sus re cord ing 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

RoadsIf you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

SafetyYou will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night. Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings.

ToiletsRijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access.Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova – by the big church Gospe Lurdske.Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta – in the park over the modern bridge.

WaterTap water is absolutely safe for drinking.


9CULTURE & EVENTS



Art-kino Croatia A-2, Krešimirova 2, tel. (+385-51) 32 32 61, [email protected], www.art-kino.org. Q Box office Open an hour before the first show.

CineStar S-3, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower Center), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Eight-screen multiplex on the top floor of the Tower Center shopping mall, showing first-run international flicks. About one fifth of the seats in the cinema are ‘love seats’ - double seats undivided by arm rests which are perfect for canoodling couples. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection.

Cinemas

Exhibitions15.04 Sunday - 15.12 SaturdayTitanic - Carpathia - RijekaD-1, The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral, Muzejski trg 1, www.ppmhp.hr. Ahoy matey! Jump aboard and visit this exhibition pertaining to Croatian seamen and passengers on the ships Titanic and Carpathia. It details the fate of the victims’ families and the rare survivors of the tragedy who had come from Croatia; and in doing so, links these historical moments to our shores.

18.05 Friday - 05.09 WednesdayThe Rijeka Port - Its history, development and trafficD-1, The Museum of the City of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. This exhibition is a dedication to the Rijeka Port as it details, portrays and analyses every historical development of this city landmark since 1719. From early settlements to today, the Port has changed faces many times and thanks to the works of two designers and photographers, an added artistic exhibit ‘Impressions’ also pays tribute to the Rijeka Port.

Opera & Ballet26.06 TuesdayThe Fallen Woman (La Traviata)S-3, CineStar, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower Center), www.blitz-cinestar.hr. A three act opera by Giuseppe Verdi where the love between the courtesan Violetta Valery and Alfredo Germont is tampered with by outside forces. Do their hearts remain true? Hear ‘Sempre Libera’ (Always free) and other Verdi classics live from Milan at Cinestar. Q Starts at 20:00.

Special events01.06 Friday - 07.09 FridayKvarner Festival 2012Opatija, www.festivalkvarner.com. Warm the cockles of your heart with this music festival in Opatija. Divided into two parts; the first (01.06 - 10.06) is dedicated to concerts with the likes of Jordi Savall and Nigel Kennedy. Early music ensembles include Accordone and L’Arpeggiata’ as well as virtuosos Albena Danailova and Monike Leskovar. The September (01.09 - 07.09) edition has more of an international opera flavour with Haydn’s Armida performed by the Purpur European Orchestra on top of Ensemble Berlin who will carry out a classical set.

19.06 Tuesday - 24.07 TuesdayRijeka Summer Nightstel. (+385-51) 35 59 24, [email protected], www.rijeckeljetnenoci.com. Performances, philharmonics, film, opera, theatre, and concerts from jazz to world music ensure that there is something to tickle everyone’s taste buds. Premieres include the musical ‘Fiddler on the Roof’ by Jerry Bock, the comedy ‘Mirandolina’ and ‘Do Do Land’ by the Spanish ensemble ‘Puja’. Escape the heat and chill amidst a variety of events where artistic creation is the formula for relaxation. Q Tickets 20 - 345kn available at the Croatian National Theatre Box Office, Verdieva 5a, (+385-51) 33 71 14, [email protected], Tourist Information Centre, Korzo 14 (+385-51)35 53 82 and www.kulturaplus.com.

J.Poirot, The play Krletka (“Cage”) at the Opatija Summer Festival, 26.06


10 CULTURE & EVENTS


23.06 Saturday - 08.09 SaturdaySummer on [email protected], www.ljetonagradini.com. Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. The events runs the entire summer where visiors surcum to the amazing ancient surroundings that encompass music, drama, art and dance across all genres of entertainment; add to that the spectacular view overlooking the lights of the Kvarner Riviera, it’s truly essential! The programme is a Croatian cultural manifestation with stars of the music scene such as Massimo, Vanna, Adastra, Hari Rončević, various klape acts (a capella singers) and many others mixed in with theatre and comedy. Internatonal performers are also scheduled so it is best to keep an eye on the timetable. Inquire for prices as some events are free whilst prices for other events cost between 30 and 120 kn. Tickets can be purchased at the ‘Summer on Gradina’ promo stand which is in front of the post-office building on Korzo, or from the Gradina café bar, the Tourist information centre on Korzo, and other city spots. Buy via the net on www.kulturaplus.com or for more information on other ticket stores, visit www.ljetonagradini.com.

29.06 Friday - 01.07 SundayRetro Music FestivalNovi Vinodolski. Get ready to rock around the clock! Novi Vinodolski turns retro with the first edition of this festival which takes you back to the 1950s and the time of rock n roll. You’ll think you’re time warped with live rockabilly musicians, DJs, an expo of old timers, and retro style fashion shows. So whack on some hair gel, retro clothes and swing on in.

C-2, Kružna 8, [email protected].

18. 05 Friday - 07. 06 ThursdayGroup Gluteus (Luka Hrgović, Miran Šabić, Stipan Tadić)

Various techniques.

08.06 Friday - 21.06 ThursdayIvona Verbanac - Deep Blue

22.06 Friday - 05.07 ThursdayTina Špralja - Comic.

Illustrations & breakdance performance.

06.07 Friday - 20.07 FridayHrvoje Pende, Mirjan Čubrić - Polis.

Photo exibition

07.09 Friday - 21.09 FridayGregor Bogdanović - Lucidus et Umbra.

Photo exibition

Palach Gallery

Tereza Kesovija, Festival Opatija

Oliver Dragojević

06.07 Friday - 08.07 SundayLiburnia Jazz FestivalOpatija, www.liburniajazz.hr. The city of Opatija and its surroundings echo the sounds of jazz each July and as you stroll around the town and turn a corner you may see some trio performing on the pavement, up on a terrace, along the promenade or on the Jazz Boat sailing the Riviera. With 16 concerts and many more performers, you have every reason to jazz it up!

06.07 FidayElvis Stanić Group feat Oliver DragojevićSummer stage, Opatija. No doubt one of Croatia’s most loved vocalists who continues to delight audiences with his astounding voice and sublime instrumental talent. Expect a few sing alongs and heart warming ballads. Q Concert starts at 21:00

20.07 Friday - 21.07 SaturdayHartera8 FestivalEx Paper Factory, Ružićeva bb, www.hartera.com. An old torn down paper factory has become home to one of the top 10 best small European Music Festivals. Stay tuned for line up details as amazing performers from all over the world have helped create an amazing ambience and reputation that continues to grow.




12 CULTURE & EVENTS


Molekula F-2, Delta 5/1, [email protected], www.molekula.org.Sušak House of Culture (Kulturni Dom Sušak) F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 35 02. Comfy medium-sized venue for plays, modern dance and the occasional art-film season. There’s a ground-floor cafe and contemporary art gallery too.

Culture Centres

06.08 Monday - 17.08 FridayThe Royal Conservatory of Scotland summer acting course in RijekaF-2, HKD Teatar, Strossmayerova 1, www.rcs.ac.uk. Fancy a career in acting, the Royal Conservatory of Scotland is holding a summer acting course outside home soil with auditions beginning in April. Those seriously seeking the spotlight can gain 10 days of indispensable skill development in the field.

10.08 Friday - 11.08 SaturdayRab Summer FestivalThe island of Rab becomes home to some of the best world DJs as well as stars of the local music scene. The buzz around the place heightens, tourists pack in and concerts are held till the morning hours. The perfect way to cap off a holiday!

28.08 Tuesday - 01.09 SaturdayVocal Marathon 2012www.vocalmarathon.com. ‘Music without music,’ hmmm… How so? This is a cappella music, pure vocals that create the sound you hear. There are awards up for grabs with 3 competition categories and a two day creative workshop on singing/song writing. Local and European choirs are set to produce some enchanting music to your ears.

Marko Tolja, Studio Maraton, photo by Siniša Gulić

Palach Gallery

Klapa Sol29.08 Wednesday - 01.09 SaturdayThe 10th Liburnia Film FestivalIčići por t, info@liburniaf ilmfestival.com, w w w.liburniafilmfestival.com. One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to the Ičići port near Opatija last year to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike!

GalleriesAtelier Paladin F-1, Ružićeva 26c, tel. (+385-) 091 563 46 98, [email protected]. The exhibition space of the graphic artist, painter and illustrator Bruno Paladin, whose works can be found in many collections of contemporary art in Croatia and around the world. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.




14 CULTURE & EVENTS


Art-kino Croatia A-2, Krešimirova 2, tel. (+385-51) 32 32 61, [email protected], www.art-kino.org. Q Box office Open an hour before the first show.CineStar S-3, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower Center), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Eight-screen multiplex on the top floor of the Tower Center shopping mall, showing first-run international flicks. About one fifth of the seats in the cinema are ‘love seats’ - double seats undivided by arm rests which are perfect for canoodling couples. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection.

Cinemas

Filodrammatica D-2, Korzo 28/I, [email protected]. An exhibition space in the beautiful building on Korzo where you’ll also find the Hemingway bar. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Free admission.

Grad E-1, Ivana Grohovca 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 28 41, [email protected]. A permanent exhibition of works by Croatian academic painters and sculptors. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Juraj Klović E-2, Matije Gupca 4a, tel. (+385-51) 33 24 94, [email protected], www.hdlu-rijeka.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

The Rijeka Astronomical Center Sveti Križ 33, www.rijekasport.hr. 17.07 Tuesday - 21.07 SaturdayLet gravity keep you grounded as the Rijeka Astronomy Centre maintains its regular programme and also includes a programme for foreign tourists. A summer special this year includes a live presentation relating to the landing of the first man on the Moon.

August See a live presentation on the Perseid Meteor Shower, also known as ‘the tears of Saint Lawrence’.

September To keep things warm, a new live presentation on the topic of the Sun for pre-school and school students is on. Rumour has it that classical music concerts are also in the plans.

Astronomical Center

Kortil F-2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65/(+385-51) 37 70 51, [email protected]. An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Mali salon D-2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, [email protected], www.mmsu.hr. A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

O.K. Gallery F-1, Franje Račkog 24, tel. (+385-) 095 522 36 49, [email protected]. An exhibition space in the K.U.N.S. (Artist’s Club on Sušak). Q Open during exhibitions. Admission free.

Palach Gallery C-2, Kružna 8, [email protected]. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Principij Gallery E-2, Pod voltun 4, tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, [email protected], www.fotoklubrijeka.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Trsatska Gradina U-1, Petra Zrinskog bb, tel. (+385-51) 21 77 14. Permanent exhibition A Century of Trsatska Gradina. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Astronomical Center

Rijeka Summer Nights

Rinella Ivanković, Gallery Bruketa

Lost for words? Just click!rijeka.inyourpocket.com


15WHERE TO STAY


P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant C Swimming pool

D Sauna 6 Animal friendly

Symbol key

Reserve a room at rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Youth hostel Rijeka R/S-3, Šetalište XIII.divizije 23, tel. (+385-51) 40 64 20, fax (+385-51) 40 64 21, [email protected], www.hfhs.hr. Rijeka’s clean and cozy hostel opened in winter 2006 in a fully renovated, fine old building in the genteel suburb of Pećine 15min walk or a short bus ride from the centre of town. Super accommodation, with a great restaurant area and TV room, plus internet point. Prices are per person per night. Q 62 dorm beds, 19.90 - 21.30€ per person. TAGBKW

Hostel

UpmarketBest Western Hotel Jadran S-3, Šetalište XIII divizije 46, tel. (+385-51) 49 40 00/(+385-51) 49 40 11, fax (+385-51) 21 64 58, [email protected], www.jadran-hoteli.hr. Rijeka gets its first real seaside hotel back after extensive renovation. The gorgeous period building occupies its own beach in the Pećine neighbourhood, 1km out of the centre (towards Split). It’s been brought up to 4 star standard, and has a restaurant open to the public, conference facilities and more. Q69 rooms (28 singles €97 - 114, 35 doubles €114 - 134, 3 triples €190, 1 suite €297, 2 Junior Suite €170). PHARUIGBKW hhhh

Grand Hotel Bonavia C-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 71 00, fax (+385-51) 33 59 69, [email protected], www.bonavia.hr. The one to choose if you want luxury in Rijeka itself. Right in the old town, in a 125 year-old building renovated in 2000, it’s part of a luxury chain owned by Mr Štrok, father of Vanya from designer duo Gharani Štrok. Pets welcome free of charge. Q121 rooms (20 singles €130 - 150, 94 doubles €160 - 205, 6 suites €315, 1 Presidental apartment €650). PJHAR6FLGBKDW hhhh

Mid rangeContinental F-1, Šetalište Andrije Kačića-Miošića 1, tel. (+385 51) 37 20 08, fax (+385-51) 37 20 09, [email protected], www.jadran-hoteli.hr. This grand Imperial building in the heart of Rijeka overlooks the park by the river in the city centre. Rooms are decent rather than luxurious. The coffee house does great cakes and has a lovely terrace. Breakfast included. Q69 rooms (13 singles €72, 50 doubles €90, 1 triple €122, 4 suites €110, 1 Junior Suite €151). A6K hhh

Neboder F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 49 31 40/(+385-51) 49 32 00, fax (+385-51) 49 32 99, [email protected], www.jadran-hoteli.hr. Recently renovated from top to bottom, the Neboder offers small but neat rooms with crisp lines, new carpets and fittings, and just enough space to fit in a desk, a TV, and a tiny balcony. Although at least one room on each floor faces inland, all the others come with extravagant views of the sea, the port, and central Rijeka’s rooftops. Built in the 1920s, the building itself (Neboder means ‘skyscraper’) is something of a monument to Croatian modern architecture. Q54 rooms (8 singles €63 - 68, 46 doubles €79 - 85). PJHA6ILGK hhh

Cream of the cropMilenij Maršala Tita 109, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 07, fax (+385-51) 27 80 21, [email protected], www.milenijhoteli.hr. Five star creature comforts in a splendid pink villa (1900s) centrally located right by the town beach. The Millennium is well known for its great wellness centre, and its coffee house is a classy spot to enjoy kaffee und kuchen. Q99 rooms (5 suites €305 - 477, 81 Standard Rooms €178, 10 Superior Rooms €194, 3 Deluxe Rooms €204). PTJHARUIFLEGBKDCwW hhhhh

Mozart Maršala Tita 138, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 82 60, fax (+385-51) 27 17 39, [email protected], www.hotel-mozart.hr. Housed in a wonderful 100-year-old building that retains much of its period splendour, the Mozart offers bright, high-ceilinged rooms with all the creature comforts. Muted colour schemes provide a soothing dose of style. All rooms come with hardwood floors and balconies, while apartments have canopied beds and whirlpool-style baths. The bottom-floor wellness centre offers saunas, steam baths, hydromassage and a host of beauty treatments in a relaxing, intimate environment. Q29 rooms (26 doubles €180 - 300, 2 Junior Suites €400, 1 Presidental Suite €600). PZHAR6UIFLBKDwW hhhhh

Villa Adela Šetalište maršala Tita 47, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 44 00, fax (+385-51) 29 46 00, [email protected], www.lovranske-vile.com. Tucked in a cove in romantic Lovran and with beautiful gardens, the story goes it was built (1905) as a love nest for a Lovran sea captain and a Spanish singer. Intimate and and richly decorated, it sleeps up to four. Breakfast not included. Q1 room (1 apartment €180 - 254). PTJA6ILGBW hhhhh

UpmarketAdmiral Maršala Tita 139, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. A great choice if you’re into sport - the Admiral has a large and well equipped fitness centre and two clean, good-sized pools (one indoor with warm sea water), a marina and sailing club. Garage 60kn/day, pets 90kn/day. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q180 rooms (31 singles €65 - 105, 131 doubles €106 - 187, 6 suites €163 - 309, 12 Junior Suites €118 - 243). PHAR6UIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh

Rijeka

Opatija


16 WHERE TO STAY


fishing village of Mošćenička Draga, close to the centre and the wonderfully clean pebble beach. It’s a smaller, comfortable 60s-era hotel with an indoor pool, sauna and diving facilities nearby. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q182 rooms (30 singles €68 - 111, 84 doubles €104 - 211, 68 Family Rooms €166 - 304). PTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Milenij Grand hotel 4 opatijska cvijeta Viktora Cara Emina 6, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 07, fax (+385-51) 27 80 21, [email protected], www.milenijhoteli.hr. A brand new complex of four buildings named after the four flowers of Opatija - camellia, magnolia, melia and wisteria. Multifunctional, both business travellers and souls in search of bodily well-being will find all they need here. Q248 rooms (229 doubles €168, 19 suites €278 - 350). PTJHARIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh

Miramar Ive Kaline 11, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 28 00 00, fax (+385-51) 28 00 28, [email protected], www.hotel-miramar.info. With the turreted Villa Neptune as its centrepiece, the Miramar reopened in Spring 2005 as a spectacular modern wellness hotel. Run by the owner of the Salzburgerhof, voted best wellness hotel in Austria - these people know what they’re doing. Q102 rooms (80 doubles €80 - 145, 4 suites €150 - 260, 3 apartments €340 - 480, 15 Junior Suites €130 - 165). PZHAR6IFLEGBKDCwW hhhh

Park Maršala Tita 60, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 70 62 00, fax (+385-51) 29 37 82, [email protected], www.hotelparklovran.hr. Delightful in duck-egg blue, this classic waterfront villa in the centre of Lovran was renovated and reopened in 2005, complete with restaurant, pool, wellness and meeting facilities. One of the embarrasingly few Croatian hotels that currently has disabled access to all communal areas and some rooms. Prices are per person. Q54 rooms (3 singles €58 - 88, 48 doubles €39 - 75, 3 apartments €65 - 90). PTHARUFLGBKDCW hhhh

Savoy Maršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 05 00, fax (+385-51) 27 26 80, [email protected], www.hotel-savoy.hr. Charming old seafront hotel dating from 1910 and fully restored in 2004. The neat and comfortable rooms feature a reasonable amount of desk and storage space. Ask for an east-facing room if you want a balcony looking directly out onto the sea. ‘Superior’ doubles are slightly more spacious than the standard rooms and offer the added advantage of a full-sized tub in the bathroom. There’s a pool with sun terrace, and wellness centre with weekend programmes. Q32 rooms (2 singles €74 - 116, 20 doubles €93 - 158, 2 suites €206 - 260, 8 Junior Suites €124 - 184). POHAUFLGBKDCW hhhh

Villa Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. Right on the water’s edge, the Ambasador’s little sister is an agreeable older building, simply and tastefully furnished, surrounded by trees and lawns. You can use the Ambasador’s facilities, park your car and bring your pets by arrangement for an extra charge. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q51 rooms (13 singles €73 - 118, 24 doubles €114 - 216, 14 suites €163 - 333). PHAR6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh

Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 44 00, fax (+385-51) 29 46 00, [email protected], www.lovranske-vile.com. Absolutely one of the prettiest villas and one of the few boutique hotels on the entire Croatian coast, this place is out of this world: the rooms, the restaurant, the garden, the pool and the view are all utterly... gorgeous. Breakfast included. No pets. Q6 rooms (6 singles €181 - 266, 6 doubles €226 - 332). PJHALEGBKCW hhhh

Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. First opened in 1966, this brash concrete-and-steel cube of a building seems decidedly at odds with its belle-epoque surroundings. Ugly from the outside it may be, but once you get inside the advantages of modern functionalism soon become apparent. All the rooms get a balcony with sweeping views, and the social areas at ground-floor level have an expansive, open-plan feel. Trendy modern artists decorated various parts of the hotel - look out for the Zvonko Lončarić sea-creature mosaic overlooking the indoor swimming pool. The newly-opened wellness centre in the basement offers state-of-the-art massage, aromatherapy and chocolate-bath facili ties, alongside saunas, steam baths and whirlpools. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q200 rooms (36 singles €78 - 143, 108 doubles €125 - 260, 9 suites €178 - 309, 7 Family Rooms €138 - 270, 4 Executive Rooms €125 - 260, 16 Executive Suites €178 - 309, 20 Junior Suites €138 - 270). PHAR6UIFLEGBKDCwW hhhhh

Design Hotel Astoria Ulica Maršala Tita 174, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, fax (+385-51) 70 63 51, [email protected], www.hotel-astoria.hr. An uber-stylish choice, offering neat, modern, design-conscious rooms in an elegantly restored belle-epoque building. East-facing rooms come with great views of Rijeka and the mountains inland. Top floor apartments have the added advantages of hardwood floors and a bathtub in the bathroom. Wireless internet throughout for 50kn/24hr. Q50 rooms (46 singles €85 - 122, 46 doubles €116 - 162, 3 suites €222 - 257, 1 Junior Suite €172 - 207). PTAR6UGBKW hhhh

Grand Hotel Adriatic Maršala Tita 200, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 90 00, fax (+385-51) 71 90 25, [email protected], www.hotel-adriatic.hr. Peacefully located a 10-minute walk from the centre, you can choose between renovated 4 star and simpler 3 star rooms, but all guests get to enjoy the pool, natural rocky beach, 8th floor sun terrace, sauna and other fitness and wellness facilities. Prices are subject to change. Q307 rooms (126 singles €80 - 120, 174 doubles €115 - 185, 7 suites €210 - 250). POTHAR6ULEGBKDCW hhhh

Kristal Maršala Tita 135, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. Sensibly priced accommodation in a spot where you can take advantage of the wellness facilities in the nearby Grand Hotel Adriatic or Thalassotherapy centre. Rooms are simple, and there’s a pleasant dining terrace shaded with wisteria overlooking the hotel’s beach. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Pets 90kn/day. Q130 rooms (33 singles €52 - 95, 97 doubles €80 - 151). PHA6UIFLGKDCW hhhh

Marina Aleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. Set in the picturesque


17WHERE TO STAY



Old-school charmBristol Ulica Maršala Tita 108, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 00, fax (+385-51) 70 63 01, [email protected], www.hotel-bristol.hr. This lovely old wedding-cake of a villa has been renovated, but retains a hushed sense of imperial grandeur, with clean lines and restrained colour. There’s a Viennese coffee house, restaurant, wi-fi internet, plus conference facilities for up to 130 with full a/v backup. They have new Spa and Beauty zone (fitness, Whirlpool, Steam bath, Sauna, treatments for women and for men). Q78 rooms (2 singles €88 - 122, 64 doubles €123 - 167, 2 suites €237 - 277, 10 Junior Suites €187 - 227). PTHAR6UFGBKDW hhhh

Imperial Maršala Tita 124/3, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. In the heart of Opatija, close to the park and the seafront, the Imperial has seen guests such as Emperor Franz Joseph and Isadora Duncan - it was built in 1885. Its period charm is updated with modern wellness facilities. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q127 rooms (24 singles €42 - 82, 103 doubles €64 - 133). PHA6IGBKW hhh

Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, fax (+385-51) 27 14 94, [email protected], www.villa-ariston.hr. In i ts heyday, the Kennedys and Coco Chanel stayed at this villa, and happily i t’s been brought back to its former glory. The balconies and the view are unsurpassed and the Presidential Suite is splendour itself. The restaurant enjoys a great reputation. Q10 rooms (2 singles €55 - 65, 6 doubles €89 - 110, 1 Presidential Suite €192 - 246, 1 Junior Suite €137 - 164). PHAILGBK hhh

Mid-rangeIstra Maršala Tita 143, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. On the seafront close to the centre and the town beach, the Istra is well equipped for its class, with an indoor swimming pool and a gym and wellness centre close by. Room service (07:00 - 22:00) and all-inclusive packages ensure you’ll never go hungry. Pets welcome, 70kn/day. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q130 rooms (18 singles €42 - 81, 112 doubles €64 - 130). PTA6GBKCW hhh

Lovran Šetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 12 22, fax (+385-51) 29 24 67, [email protected], www.hotel-lovran.hr. Two beautifully renovated Habsburg villas in the heart of Lovran providing modern comfort and period charm. There’s a bar, two restaurants, business facilities and a staff who help you enjoy the sea, the town and the surrounding countryside to the full. Q56 rooms (7 singles €39 - 56, 46 doubles €68 - 132, 3 suites €130 - 165). PHA6D hhh

Mediteran Trg slobode 1, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. Modern and simple, good for families with kids, the location overlooking Mošćenička Draga’s glorious beach couldn’t be better. You can use the indoor pool and health centre at the nearby Marina, where you can also organise diving in the pristine sea. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q69 rooms (3 singles €37 - 55, 66 doubles €54 - 101). PA6ILGBKW hhh

Palace- Bellevue Maršala Tita 144/148, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. Two connected imperial buildings in the heart of Opatija. The stunning antique interiors (renovated 2002) and reasonable prices are enough reason to go; the heated seawater pool and sauna are the cherry on the cake. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q205 rooms (41 singles €45 - 83, 164 doubles €70 - 135). PTHA6IEGBKDCW hhh

BudgetBelvedere Ive Kaline 7, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+3855-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. A little out of the centre in a lush, forested park, the Belvedere has a private beach, swimming pool and car park, and is right on the waterfront. It’s a quiet spot if you need a little rest and recuperation. Prices subject to change. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q66 rooms (13 singles €36 - 68, 53 doubles €56 - 109). A6ILEGBKDCW hh

Opatija Trg Vladimira Gortana 2/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 88, fax (+385-51) 27 13 17, [email protected], www.hotel-opatija.hr. A fantastic location at the head of the beautiful park square in the very centre of Opatija, the hotel has a beautiful big terrace and tennis courts. The art nouveau interior features a lovely indoor pool, sauna and massage. Rooms are more modestly decorated. Q200 rooms (84 singles €43 - 64, 116 doubles €55 - 97). PTHAR6LBKC hh

Villa Amalia Pava Tomašića 2/2, Opatija (Hotel Kvarner), tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. The pleasant lemon-yellow Kvarner was the first hotel in Opatija, while the Amalia annexe was an official residence of the Habsburgs. The park location right on the seafront, period furnishings, pools, sauna and massage centre make it a great stay. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q31 rooms (1 single €33 - 53, 30 doubles €50 - 99). HA6ILEGBKDCW hh

CampingAutocamp Draga A. Slatina b.b., Mošćenićka Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 23, fax (+385-51) 73 73 39, [email protected], www.autocampdraga.com. The resort is a delightful haven of green with a sparkling beach, and the camp site is as well-equipped as you could wish - there’s even a night guard. Q Person / per day 38 - 54kn, Children 26 - 37kn, Tent 30 - 37kn, Car 24 - 37kn, Accomodation tax 3,5 - 7kn. hhh

Medveja Medveja bb, tel. (+385-51) 29 11 91, fax (+385-51) 29 24 71, [email protected], www.liburnia.hr. A little resort with a beautiful shingle beach 25km from Opatija. Prices are subject to change. Q Person / per day 50 - 54kn, Children 31 - 34kn, Tent 35 - 38kn, Camping trailer 48 - 50kn, Admission tax 3.50 - 7kn. hhh


18 WHERE TO STAY


UpmarketMarina Emila Antića 78, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 81 40, fax (+385-51) 76 81 37, [email protected], www.hotel-marina.net. Perhaps the most stunning thing about this bright new hotel near the beach resort Selce is the grassy sunbathing terrace overlooking the sea. There’s a good indoor pool, rooms are nice and spacious and bathrooms have massage showers, there’s a playroom and conference and banqueting facilities. Prices are per person per day. Q50 rooms (11 singles €75 - 100, 33 doubles €62 - 85, 6 suites €82 - 100). PHARUFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Mid-rangeSelce Šetalište Ivana Jeličića 14, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 82 22, fax (+385-51) 76 82 23, [email protected], www.hotel-selce.com. Nicely renovated, this mid-sized family run hotel has tastefully decorated, spacious rooms with air conditioning and mini bar, a restaurant and conference hall plus great views of the Kvarner gulf. You’re close to the heart of the lively resort of Selce with good beaches, cafés and restaurants. Q90 rooms (87 doubles €95 - 147, 3 Delux Room €121 - 169). PHARLGKDW hhh

CampingOštro Oštro 16, Kraljevica, tel. (+385-51) 28 12 18/(+385-) 091 121 16 55, fax (+385-51) 28 14 04, [email protected], www.jadran-hoteli.hr. The pine forested Oštro peninsula is close to the village of Kraljevica, and is well known for its pleasant shingle beaches. This peaceful campsite has a shop, restaurant and ice cream parlour, plus you can stay in little camp huts. Dogs allowed 10 - 15kn/per day. Q Person / per day 30 - 40kn, Children 10 - 20kn, Bungalow 277 - 296kn, Plots 40 - 170kn, Admission tax 4.5 - 7kn. TA6LBKW h

UpmarketApoksiomen Riva lošinjskih kapetana 1, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 52 08 20, fax (+385-51) 52 08 30, [email protected], www.apoksiomen.com. In prime position on the waterfront of this lively little fishing town, the hotel named after the bronze statue of a Greek athlete recently found in the waters near here is in a fully renovated captain’s villa. Comfortable accommodation, stylish surroundings and a friendly, individual approach. Prices are per room per night including breakfast. Q25 rooms (24 singles €72 - 119, 24 doubles €102 - 173, 1 Grand Deluxe Room €162 - 219). PHAR6UGBKW hhhh

Mid-rangeBellevue Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 12 22, fax (+385-51) 23 12 68, [email protected], www.losinj-hotels.com. Tests by the Innsbruck Institute of Microbiology found a low concentration of allergens here, and you can get non-allergenic bedding and rooms without carpets on request. A lovely warm seawater indoor pool, gym, sauna and massage facilities, conference rooms and woodland location on the Bay of Čikat. Q226 rooms (60 singles €54 - 76, 144 doubles €90 - 134, 22 triples €112 - 188). THAUFLEGBKDC hhh

BudgetAlhambra Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 20 22, fax (+385-51) 23 20 42, [email protected], www.losinj-hotels.com. Simple and small, but with the good fortune being set in a beautiful Mediterranean villa with lofty ceilings and high windows. You’re on the bay of Čikat, with its thick pine forests, imperial architecture, good beaches, and a 1km trot from the centre of town. Q40 rooms (40 doubles €62 - 92). TA6LBK hh

CampingSan Marino Lopar bb, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 77 51 33/(+385-51) 77 51 34, fax (+385-51) 77 52 90, [email protected], www.imperial.hr. This great camp is located 12 km from Rab, in Lopar, along an exquisite sand beach making it ideal for families with kids. It has great sport and recreational facilities. Per person you’ll pay 6.50 - 7€ per day, children 2.10 - 4€ per child/per day, car and tent 6.95 - 11.80€ per day and admission tax 7kn. Q A6EBKW hhh

Islands

Primorje

Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Rijeka In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

Rijeka.inyourpocket.com


19RESTAURANTS


P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

E Live music S Take away

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking

O Casino 6 Animal friendly

R Internet N No Credit cards

Symbol key

Hungry for more? Just click! rijeka.inyourpocket.com

ChinesePeking P-3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34. You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 119kn). PALGX

CroatianKonoba Nebuloza F-1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, [email protected], www.konobanebuloza.com. Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches.The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 80kn) PA

Municipium D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14, www.municipium.hr. Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 150kn). PAGB

Nono Frane Viškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 62 44/(+385-) 098 21 20 21, [email protected], www.nono-frane.hr. Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn). PALGB

Oštarija pul Belega S-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-51) 21 63 82. Full of local atmosphere, Pul Belega is a neighbourhood eatery with a pleasant terrace, definitely not glamorous, but a favourite place of Rijeka’s journalists for a working lunch. The menu includes Istrian specialities, inexpensive shellfish and roast lamb. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 150kn). PAGB

Ronjgi Ronjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38, [email protected], www.ronjgi.com.hr. In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel welcome. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PALGB

Šmrika Marčelji 15, Viškovo (Pansion Šmrika), tel. (+385-51) 65 10 20, [email protected], www.smrika.hr. A traditional Mediterranean cuisine and dishes include traditional preparation of lamb. Home made wine called ‘eliđo pilato’ plus many more wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (50 - 100kn). PTA6ILGBSW

Fast foodHamby E-2, Ante Starčevića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 06 53, [email protected], www.hamby.hr. Fast food but not junk - hot and cold sandwiches, burgers - including soya - and pizza cuts. This Hamby at the train station does pasta, gnocci, pizzas and salads too. Lifesaving! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. NGB

McDonald’s D-2, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 51 77, www.mcdonalds.hr. If you can’t bear to be separated from your golden arches, you’ll be delighted with Rijeka’s McDs - its in a gorgeous yellow building that used to house Rijeka’s historic coffee house. Sacrilege! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBS

Pizza Cut Planet E-1, Žrtava fašizma 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 35. Triangles of dough covered with tomato and cheese. Also circles! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. NGS

Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation of the human race in summer. While you can buy the usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is the Croatian brand we grew up with), don’t miss the homemade version in a slastičarna. The water and milk here is fine, so there should be nothing to upset your tum.Slastičarne are temples to all things sweet. You can also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting choice of alcohol. These are sometimes no-smoking establishments due to the presence of little munchkins.

Choco bar D-2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, www.kraschocobar.com. Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on offer. It’s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant mix of minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco. Q Store is open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Bar is open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AB

Corso D-2, Korzo 20. Light and delicious cakes - some of the best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too. A perfect terrace for a spot of people-watching on Korzo, and a bright and cheerful upstairs seating area with a view of the decorative buildings opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNGB

Desserts


20 RESTAURANTS


InternationalKamov C-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www.bonavia.hr. Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). PALG

Skopski merak Dragutina Tadijanovića 1, Srdoči, tel. (+385-51) 62 64 24, www.skopski-merak.hr. Some way out of town in the hillside suburb of Srdoči, this Macedonian-themed restaurant is a great place to tuck into south-Balkan lamb and pork dishes washed down with some excellent Macedonian wines. Prices are eminently reasonable, and the interior artfully recreates the atmosphere of a nineteenth-century Macedonian inn. Merak, by the way, is one of those strangely poetic Macedonian words that means something inbetween wistful yearning and loving affection - an appropriate description for the way these people cook. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 60kn). PALGB

Sorriso Podkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12. Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (45 - 120kn). AGB

Spagho E-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22. This spaghetteria has a wide range of classic pasta dishes, a brief but well-composed pizza menu and specialities such as carpaccio, saltinbocca and steaks prepared in imaginative ways such as with grana padano, rucola and vinegar. With its elegant contemporary décor, excellent kitchen and good wine list, Spagho is highly prized by the locals as spot for a light meal in the city centre. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (29 - 160kn). AB

Viktoria A-1, Alessandra Manzonia 1a, tel. (+385-51) 33 74 16. In one of the listed buildings forming part of the historic theatre-palace-market complex near the port of Rijeka, Viktoria offers pizzas, pasta, fish and meats, and has a huge terrace. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (25-70kn). GB

KonobaA “konoba” is a type of restaurant typical of the Croatian coast - simple and traditional, although some modern versions have gone somewhat upscale, and are great places to experience local atmosphere and cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

Blato F-1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70. In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. October - March 31 Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 70kn). PAG

Girica N-2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, [email protected]. Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 150kn). PALG

Kod Ive J-2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65. This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (18 - 60kn). ALGB

Tarsa R-2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89, [email protected], www.konoba-tarsa.net. The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles - a speciality from nearby Istria. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 100kn). PAULEGBS

Volta 15 D-2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 06. A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu - no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 120kn). PAGB

MexicanKonoba Bodega E - 3, Ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59. What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals give it rave reviews in any case - especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn). PAGB

Out of townAmfora Črnikovica 4, Volosko, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 22, [email protected], www.restaurant-amfora.com. Long regarded as one of the finest restaurants on the Opatija Riviera, Amfora has an antique-style interior and a lovely terrace with a sea view. A classic fish restaurant, also with excellent meats and an extensive wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 300kn). ALGB

Bracera Kvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, [email protected], www.bracera.hr. This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” - sardines or similar. Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27 - 300kn). PNGB


21RESTAURANTS



Dopolavoro Učka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) 091 222 53 35, www.dopolavoro.hr. If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style - it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Monday. July - August 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). ALGB

Draga di Lovrana Lovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 27 76 89, [email protected], www.dragadilovrana.hr. Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try home-made bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PALB

Gospoja Frankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, [email protected], www.gospoja.hr. Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home. Q April - October 30 Open 12:00 - 22:00. (40 - 180kn). PALB

Istranka Bože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, [email protected]. A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behing Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A shady terrace and musical accompaniment - worth tracking down. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PAB

Johnson Majćevo 29b, Moščenićka Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 78, [email protected], www.johnson.hr. This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. June - October Open 12:00 - 23:00. (75 - 250kn). PALGB

Konoba Nada Glavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, [email protected], www.nada-vrbnik.hr. If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance). Q April - October 31 Open 12:00 - 22:00 (70 - 270kn). PAGB

Konoba Ribice Ulica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. (+385-) 091 184 13 01. As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old Punat. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (30 - 70kn). NB

Kukuriku Trg Lokvina 3, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 15 19, [email protected], www.kukuriku.hr. “Slow food” - several courses representing the best of the season, each accompanied by a glass of outstanding wine. With a wonderful location in old Kastav and a terrace overlooking the whole of Kvarner, Kukuriku is a gastronomic highlight of the region. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). PAB


22 RESTAURANTS


Lavrvs Nova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 74 13 55, [email protected], www.villa-kapetanovic.hr. Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines - always a good sign. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (65 - 130kn). PALB

Mali raj Maršala Tita 191, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 74/(+385-) 091 470 40 74, [email protected], www.mali-raj.hr. Part of a large and upscale guesthouse overlooking the sea, the “little heaven” restaurant offers a huge choice of excellent seafood and meat dishes and good pizzas. Prices are rather reasonable, and the terrace is gorgeous. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). ALGB

NaJade Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350kn) PAB

Plavi podrum Obala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, [email protected], www.plavipodrum.com. A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). AGB

Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, [email protected], www.villa-ariston.hr. The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperial-style dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international cuisine. With courteous and professional service, we’re sure you’ll enjoy it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PALGB

Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 44 00, [email protected], www.lovranske-vile.com. Intimate dining in the antique dining room of exquisite Villa Astra, one of the loveliest boutique hotels on the coast. The menu is as small and perfectly formed as the hotel, wi th selected seasonal dishes presenting flavours from Kvarner and Istria. QOpen 18:30 - 22:00. (160 - 300kn). PAGB

Fork B-2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50, [email protected], www.fork.hr. Positioned close to the bus station and at the beginning of Korzo, this small vegetarian buffet may only have four tables but it is delightfully pleasant with a small terrace. The menu changes over the winter and summer seasons with meals such as soup, sandwiches, pastas, tofu, couscous, veggie dishes, salads and cakes to devour. Oh my, we certainly recommend! QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (24 - 44kn). PNGS

Klub Makrovega E-2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45, [email protected]. Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (13 - 23kn). PNG

Vegetarian

PizzaBracera C-2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98. A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20 - 110kn). PAGB

Kokolo L-2, Zametska 58, tel. (+385-51) 26 33 94, www.kokolo.hr. On the road leading west from Rijeka towards Kastav, this large pizza and pasta restaurant has a large shaded terrace, a bright and homely interior and a great play area that will keep the ankle-biters occupied for hours. QOpen 09:00 - 22:45. (20 - 180kn). PAGBS

Pampas V-2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58. A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (27- 65kn). PVNBS

SeafoodFeral E-2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, [email protected]. Croatian classics - it’s a simple place with a small menu - which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (23 - 350kn). PAGBS

Na kantunu E-3, Demetrova 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 71/(+385-51) 21 13 62, [email protected]. Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices. A quick and easy eating place - high stools at the tables, but clean and comfortable nonetheless. With a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’ community. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 200kn). PAGBS

Zlatna školjka C-2, Kružna 12a, tel. (+385-51) 21 37 82, [email protected]. In the heart of the city, just off Korzo, Zlatna Školjka has long enjoyed the reputation as one of the city’s classiest restaurants. The seafood is indeed great (meat is on the menu too), and the comfortable interior is a soothing balance of modern seating and quirky antique decorations. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 120kn). PAGB


23CAFÉS


Cukarikafe D-2, Marka Marulića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 583 82 76, [email protected]. The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could you want? QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PGBW

Dolce Bolero D-2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 03 43/(+385-51) 37 23 50, [email protected]. A cheerful combination of lemon-yellow chairs and brick-red walls provides the perfect background for a happy afternoon spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and custard slices happen to be wobbling around seductively in the display cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to order. Which is useful if you happen to be planning either a birthday party or a splatter-someone-in-the-face confectionary assault. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB

Ero E-3, Verdieva 3a, tel. (+385-51) 33 79 02. In a lovely and tranquil spot by the National Theatre and the market, Ero has a tree-shaded terrace and is a soothing place to sit inside on rainy days. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNB

Ferrari D-2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 12 15. It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square, close to the Bonavia. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PNBX

Fiorello Pub D-2, Korzo 2D, tel. (+385-51) 33 13 90. A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PNBX

Gradina R-2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) 091 724 39 08/(+385-) 091 154 10 65, [email protected], www.bascinskiglasi.hr. You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress - which is in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. B

Iskra D-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06. Zebra print seating and pink neon lighting serve as an unwanted reminder of the 1980s, but Iskra has a nice terrace and a wine cellar. You could do far worse than spend an evening lingering over a bottle of Dingač or Ivan Dolac - both gutsy southern reds. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. PNB

Kosi toranj E-2, Pul Vele crikve 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 62 14. Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/breakbeat DJ set come evening. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNBX

Latino E-2, Pavlinski trg 4a, tel. (+ 385-51) 33 66 87. A nice arty little café with good cakes. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNBX

Laval D-2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 88 82. Right in front of the ferry terminal, a classy café with a shady terrace and an excellent wine list. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNBX

Mali Cafe D-2, Korzo 18a, tel. (+385-51) 33 56 06/(+385-) 091 253 79 12, [email protected]. One of the nicest cafes, right on trendy Korzo, all sophisticated in black and white. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNBX

Picasso E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 1a, tel. (+385-51) 31 54 16, [email protected]. Lively and often spinning house music for the kids, Picasso is bright, clean, air-conditioned and has a dual-purpose terrace for supping coffee and slurping Ledo ice cream. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGB

Piramida F-2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51) 37 11 81. A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PNX

Premier D-2, Andrije Medulića 7, tel. (+385-51) 21 54 02. The terrace in the street that winds up to St Vitus’ Cathedral kicks tush. Inside all is mellow wood and rock music. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNGBX

Ritz E-2, Sokol-Kula 13, tel. (+385-51) 33 94 75. Sit on the little square where the statue of the lady carrying enormous milk churns is, and feel guilty as hell. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30. Closed Sun. PNBX

Sabbia C-2, Riva 6 (Shopping centre RI), tel. (+385-51) 31 10 19. High up in the big RI department store, you can enjoy the view over the harbour as you devour your weekly calorific intake all in one go. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNGB

Striga F-1, Titov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. In the same building as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. June - September Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNBX

Voyager A-1, Nikole Tesle 1a, tel. (+385-51) 33 78 95. Not in space, but opposite the railway station, a super (air conditioned) place to while away the time over a drink or snack. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PNBX


24 NIGHTLIFE


BarsGalaxie bar Bože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo, DJ parties on Fridays and regular live music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBX

Maat Bar R-2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports Centre, tel. (+385-) 098 32 81 64. On the ground floor of the big sports complex in the heart of Trsat, this bar “sports” a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both a popular spot for a coffee by day and for evening drinks before hitting town. There’s a large terrace and relaxed soundtrack, featuring house and r’n’b and Croatian music on Fridays. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PLGBX

Mirage Istarska bb. The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively. A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PBX

Monokini Maršala Tita 96, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 38 88. If you’re beginning to tire of Opatija’s haughty belle-epoque self-image then it’s high time you headed for Monokini, where sixties’ inspired furniture and sculptural light fittings provide a this-is-not-the-riviera-of-old sense of pop-art modernity. Changing exhibitions of art and photography enliven the walls, while the bendy bit of metal below the bar throws hall-of-mirrors reflections back on bemused drinkers. The street-facing terrace is a great place to slump if there’s enough sunshine. In the evening, DJ decks in the corner provide the source of chillout sounds or frisky bone-bending beats, depending on what night of the week it is. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PNGBX

Pepe Rosso D-3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56, www.peperossobar.com. In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar hots up at nightfall to the sound of Latino pasión. Tuesday night is the time to trip to the haughty steps of tango, and regional stars of the salsa scene fly in on Wednesdays. The evenings start with dance classes followed by freestyling till clock strikes two. There’s a classy drinks

menu, a few nibbles, book promotions, art exhibitions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really! QOpen 07:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PAGBW

Rozi E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 84 23. Favoured by Rijeka’s student crowd, Rozi is a little scruffy, which gives it a laid-back feel. Cheap drinks and snacks are accompanied by lively music, conversation, gesticulation and mastication. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. PNB

Sabrage R-2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37. Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PENBX

Teta Roža S-3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 098 137 61 19. Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PNBX

Tunel E-1, Školjić 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 71 16, [email protected]. Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of electronic music, laid back jazz and alternative culture - you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts and all sorts here. The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions. As an added bonus, they serve great coffee from 8 AM, and there’s a free net connection in case you decide to finish your work while tapping your toes!QOpen Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PNBX

ClubsBoa E-2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 01/(+385-) 091 339 93 39, [email protected], www.clubboa.com. This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian music scene graces Boa with a live performance. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PNB


25NIGHTLIFE


Rijeka telephone code is +385-51

Disco Seven Maršala Tita 125, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 45 08 47. Perhaps the most stylish summer discoteque in Opatija is Disco Seven, located right on the beach next to Hemingway Bar. House is typically the music du jour. Q Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. July, August Open 22:00 - 06:00. PNGBX

Palach C-2, Kružna ulica 8, [email protected]. Rijeka’s main counter-culture hangout is dedicated to Jan Palach, the Czech dissident student who set himself on fire during the Soviet invasion in 1968. DJs, performances and exhibitions bring life to the student scene in this grungy space tucked away behind Korzo. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 03:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 09.00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Closed July 21 - August 25. PNGBX

Place F-1, Ružićeva 2, [email protected]. Head up the right bank of the Rječina river towards Rijeka’s historic industrial core, and on the right you’ll see a shed-like structure which hardly looks like the kind of place to find Place. But sure enough, this is it, the heart of the city’s alternative rock scene. There’s a live band on at least one night a week, and a DJ plays otherwise. Scuzzy and friendly, Place is a bit of a gem. QOpen , Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PX

Cocktail barsHemingway Zert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 23 33, [email protected], www.hemingway.hr. Nowadays there are Hemingway bars all over Croatia but this was the first and remains the most cultish, with its semi-circular glass facade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion boats of Opatija’s tidy little harbour. There’s a dearth of Hemingway-related memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at weekends. The standard of service ranges from the merely ok to the absolutely rubbish and the drinks are more expensive than the ones you can help yourselves to in the average hotel minibar, but Hemingway is the one place in Opatija in which you have to hang out at least once. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. AGBX

PubsBelgian Beer Caffe - Brasserie As D-2, Trg Republike Hrvatske 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 23 45, [email protected], www.ugostiteljstvo-as.com. Another woodsy “real” pub, huge and with an extensive menu featuring daily set menus and veggie platters. The terrace between Korzo and Riva demands you rest your weary limbs on a hot day. The food’s not very Belgian. The beer is. Or at least some of it. So are the prices. QOpen 06:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 02:00. PAGB

Capitano E-2, Riva 8. First impressions suggest a classy and yuppiefied pub, complete with bustling be-aproned waiters, upholstered booths and polished cherrywood surfaces. However the pumping music and no-nonsense party atmosphere draws a young and hedonistic crowd in the evenings, especially at weekends when Capitano is a key stop-off on the city-centre booze crawl. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. PNBX

Celtic Caffe Bard E-2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35, [email protected], www.caffebard.com. A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNBX

Gric & guc C-2, Dolac 8b, tel. (+385-51) 31 90 40, [email protected]. As the name itself suggests, this is a place to nibble and sip! Perfectly placed in the heart of town close to Korzo, this L-shaped beer house is set in a basement and has all the tasty meaty dishes one can only want when knocking back a pint. They haven’t forgotten lovers of seafood and veggies either, they cater for all. A simple, wooden interior, pleasant atmosphere and fair prices. After a day of sightseeing what more could you ask for? QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 99kn). PAGBW

Phanas Pub D-3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23 77, [email protected], www.phanas.hr. A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PAX

Riječka pivnica A-2, Krešimirova 16a, tel. (+385-) 098 928 18 00, [email protected], www.rijeckapivnica.info. This L-shaped tunnel of a place is one of Rijeka’s best-loved beer halls, thanks in large part to the presence of Kilkenny, Guiness and Budweiser on draught. The bar menu features plenty in the steak and pork-chop line, although the goulash with Czech dumplings for 38kn stands out as one of the best-value and tastiest feeds you’ll find in town. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNGB

River pub D-1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-) 095 400 30 03, www.river-pub.com. With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. Closed July, August. PNGBXW

Casino Ri D-2, Trg 111. brigade hrv. vojske, tel. (+385-51) 31 12 46, [email protected], www.lutrija.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 04:00. PGX

Casinos


26 WHAT TO SEE


Essential RijekaRijeka’s main sights have been labe l l ed wi th p laques and brought together in a walking tour called the “Tourist Route” - or Turistička magistrala. You can see all the places marked with numbers on the map at the back of this guide. Here are the potted histories of these landmarks. For the full story, check out www.tz-rijeka.hr We’ve included some other landmarks which we think may also be interesting for you.

Essential RijekaSt Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) D-1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1922. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30.

The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) D-2, Korzo. Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate - the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea - everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.

The Corso (Korzo) C/D-2, Korzo. The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.

The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc) E-3, Uljarska 1, tel. (+385-51) 35 59 00/(+385-51) 35 59 07, [email protected], www.hnk-zajc.hr. This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, the theatre was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk island. In the newly-landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most impor tant contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia.Trsat S-1. Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion. You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.


27WHAT TO SEE


The Slavs took St Vitus to their hearts as a patron saint because his name means something like “all-seeing” in Slav languages – indeed, he is the patron saint of eyes and vision, and of the city of Rijeka. So much did his image be-come part of the city that Rijeka was known in the Middle Ages either as “Terra Fluminis Sancti Viti” (in Latin) or “Rika Svetog Vida” (Croatian). You can see his image on a stained glass window in the St Vitus Cathedral and in many other items of the city’s heraldry. St Vitus was born in Sicily at the end of the 3rd Century, and was martyred by the Roman Emperor Diocletian (he who built the great palace at Split). Prague’s gothic cathedral is also named after him.

Saint Vitus - Sveti Vid

ChurchesThe Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) B-2, Kapucinske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hard-earned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00. July, August Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00 and 19:00. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00.

The Church of St Jerome and Dominican Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski samostan) D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 53 20. A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square. It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00,18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

The Church of St Mary of the Assumption and The leaning tower (Crkva U z n e s e n j a B l a ž e n e Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj) E-2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77. Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was

once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. Although St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings, it was undergoing renovation at the time of writing. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July Open 08:00 - 12:00. August Open 17:00 - 19:00.

The Church of St Sebastian (Crk va sv. Sebastijana) D-2, Marka Marulića bb. Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated. Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe! The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.

The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There! That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Mass: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30, Mon 08:00 - 09:00, 18:00 - 18:30.

The Salesian Monastery (Salezijanski samostan) N-2, Vukovarska 62, tel. (+385-51) 67 58 04. The monks of the Salesian order follow the teachings of St Don Bosco (1815-1888), a priest who dedicated his life to helping and teaching orphaned boys. The buildings of the monastery complex date back to 1892, the chapel for orphans to 1901. The Salesians were invited to Rijeka in 1918 to work with young people, and founded a school and oratory here. The Salesian Classical Grammar School is a highly regarded educational institution which continues this work today on the same site.


28 WHAT TO SEE



FountainsRijeka has an exceptionally large number of fountains. Before the city had a water system, they made use of the many springs which have their source in the very centre. Some of these being underground, public washing facilities and drinking fountains were built for practical purposes, providing places where the inhabitants would gather and catch up with the daily gossip. Many of the original ones are long gone since the building of the modern water system, but in more recent years decorative fountains have been built that give the city a pleasant character. They’re all places where you can sit and enjoy a little refreshment in the summer heat.

The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski trg) C-2, Jadranski trg. Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.

The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki) E-2, Jelačićev trg. Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship. Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions.

The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) D-2, Korzo. Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range.

The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) D-2, Koblerov trg. A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.

The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) A-2, Krešimirova. Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.

Historical areasCalvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st.) E-1, Kalvarija. Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.

Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium (Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera. Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.

The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv. Križ) T-2, Sveti križ. Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks). Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!



30 WHAT TO SEE


The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) L-3, Liburnijska 3. Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines. Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs - the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.

The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A-1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses.

The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) M-3, Jože Vlahovića 19. Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka? Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this. One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter.

The Old City (Stari grad). The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera.

Industrial RijekaIt’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine historic architecture.

The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) F-1, Ružićeva bb. Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.

Lost for words? Just click! rijeka.inyourpocket.com


31WHAT TO SEE


Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) A-2, Petra Krešimira 5. The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.

LandmarksCity Market (Vel ika tržnica) E-3, Verdieva. Togeth er wi th th e nearby Na tional Th ea tre and i ts park, th e Model lo Palace and numerous residential, commercial and industrial buildings, the City Market forms a super urban archi tectural compl ex. At i ts core are beautiful art nouveau market halls, especiall y the l i vel y fish market, which is in an imposing Liberty style building with charming mouldings by famous Venetian sculptor

Urbano Bottasso of the poor crustaceans destined soon to hit your plate. Don’t miss the city’s central market if you love to get the feel for real local atmosphere. Stalls piled high

with fresh local produce and the cheery banter of traders and their customers are one of the everyday pleasures of this part of the world. The market is a good place for speciality delicatessen, and the lively fish market at the end closest to the sea is a must if you have the means to cook your own! The pleasant streets of the market area are lined with fast food takeaways and inexpensive konoba for a quick and authentic lunch - see the “Restaurants” section - plus a few pleasant cafés with leafy terraces.

Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers (Most hrvatskih branitelja) E-2, Uskočka riva. A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!

Sense the new Mediterranean with a unique area where people live within Mediterranean spirit and the Central European heritage

We are actively involved in the showcase of our natural and cultural diversities

Strategic coordination with:

Riva 1, 51 000 Rijeka • Phone: +385 51 351-177 • Fax: +385 51 331-764 • [email protected] • www.portauthority.hr


32 WHAT TO SEE


in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned - you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.

Sušak - Pećine Q/S-3/4. The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti - “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during Austro-Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books. In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.

The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) E-2, Užarska. By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese - grobnički sir - try it if you see it on the menu.

Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) D-3. The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume. War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two. During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline. However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more.

Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) F-1/2 / E-2. “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these. Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time Silvia Kovačević


33WHAT TO SEE


The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Sveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, [email protected], www.astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomy center that was built in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city and up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building which was built in 1941as a military fortress. Subsequently, in 2001, a telescope was built there Rijeka’s first observatory was established, by installing a new planetarium hall into an already existing for tress. The Astronomical Center now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy. Special presentations are organized for foreign tourists every Wednesday at 21:30. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 -20kn.

The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) D-2, Trg Julija Klovića. Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs.

The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) F-1, Titov trg. On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings - a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.

MuseumsIf you’d like to tour Rijeka’s Natural History Museum, you’ll be glad to know that interactive audio guides to the museum are now available in Croatian and in English, meaning that you can enjoy a guided tour at any time during the Museum’s opening hours.

Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti) C-2, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, [email protected], www.mmsu.hr. Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Peek&Poke E-1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Hands up if you love PC’s! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum in computer technology? Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles and computers spread across two levels. In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 5 computers available to visitors as a cost of 15kn per half an hour or 20kn per hour. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun Open by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) D-1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, [email protected], www.riarhiv.hr. Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived. Q During exhibitions open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) D-1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, [email protected], www.ppmhp.hr. One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century.

Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections. For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.



34 WHAT TO SEE


The Museum of the City of Rijeka (Muzej grada Rijeke) D-1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 33 67 11, [email protected], www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn, Mon free.

The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) D-1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, [email protected], www.prirodoslovni.com. Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hill top commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.

The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) C-2, Riva. This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija - yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination. While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool. The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary - look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India.

The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) E-1, Žrtava fašizma. Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too - raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.

The Modello Building (Palača Modello) E-2, Ivana Zajca. A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.

The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije. Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices. Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.

The Palazzo (Palača komuna) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera. This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in

The University Library (Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka) C-2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 11/(+385-51) 33 61 29, www.svkri.uniri.hr. The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view - it’s well worth it. The Museum of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building. Q Admission 10 kn.

PalacesThe Governor’s Palace (Guvernerova palača) D-1, Muzejski trg 1. The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed


35WHAT TO SEE


music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza - the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.

ParksThe Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe Trsatske) V-2, Trsat. Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.

The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka). One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green. The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.

The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) D-1, Žrtava fašizma. Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden - it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it - the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.

The Theatre Park (Kazališni park) E-3, Ivana Zajca. Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.

The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora) D-1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora. This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.

Religious collectionsThe Collection of St Vitus Cathedral (Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) E-1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here. Call for visit tour. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Permanent Collection of Votive Offerings (Stalna izložba zavjetnih darova) U-1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers have been answered. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat (Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske) U-1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia - no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.

The Treasury of the Franciscan Monastery, Trsat (Riznica Franjevačkog samostana, Trsat) U-3, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. All kinds of churchy stuff dating back to the 13th century, including incunabula and a valuable collection of vestments. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.


36 OPATIJA


Opatija gets its rightful name from an abbey that was established here in the late Middle Ages by Benedictine monks. The Croatian word for abbey is opatija, and this same abbey was abandoned by the early nineteenth century, although its centre-point, St James’s Church (Crkva svetog Jakova), still stands by the seashore today. As people sort shelter across Europe, a civilian settlement grew-up around the abbey some time in the sixteenth century - although it wasn’t until the nineteenth century that Opatija was discovered as a potential health resort, and it was then that its development and infrastructure really began to expand.

Opatija’s history as a tourist destination begins in the 1840’s when a merchant from the nearby city of Rijeka, Iginio Scarpa built the Villa Angiolina which served as both a family retreat and a venue for high-society gatherings. With members of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy included on Scarpa’s guest list, the appeal of Opatija as a holiday destination rapidly spread. Tourists back in the nineteenth-century were not interested in sunbathing, bungee-jumping, and drinking themselves silly. They saw travel as a health-improving activity which took them away from smoky cities and provided them with a dose of fresh sea air. Opatija, with its warm climate

and mild sea breezes, was the ideal destination. Opatija had got its major b rea k th rou gh u n d e r the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire which was expanding its railway networks. Urged on by the advice of top doctors; notab l y the Austr ian laryngologist Leopold Schrötter, who found the local sea air to be an excellent cure for throat complaints, the Southern Ra i lway Company or Südbahn had bu i l t a direct line from Vienna to Rijeka. The construction of hotels was next on the

agenda which was seen as a major requirement in order to meet the needs of a growing tourist industry. In 1884, the Südbahn had opened Opatija’s first sanatorium, the Kvarner which continues to operate today under the name Kvarner Hotel. Since its early days, Opatija was always seen as an exclusive resort for the horse-and-carriage set and it had soon become popular amongst the Austro-Hungarian royal family. Emperor Franz Josef himself was a regular visitor, and was joined here by his German counterpart Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1894. Franz Ferdinand (the Archduke, not the 80’s pop rock band) would venture down to Opatija to indulge in a spot of bird-shooting at nearby Preluk.

Essential OpatijaVilla Angiolina Built in 1844 and seen as a landmark in the town’s development as a high-society resort. Fittingly, the high and mighty figures of the populace would relish in the villa surroundings, attending lavish balls and receptions. High-ranking guests included the governor of Croatia Josip Jelačić (1851), Archduke Maximilian von Habsburg (1859), and Emperor Franz-Jozef’s mother, the Empress Maria-Ana (1860). The villa now serves as the Museum of Croatian Tourism (Hrvatski muzej turizma, Park Angiolina 1, tel. 099 239 14 46, open 10:00 -18:00. Closed Mon. June 15 - September Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.) - well worth visiting not least because it gives you the chance to peek inside the villa’s ornate entrance hall, complete with intricate mosaic floors, painted ceiling and Corinthian-style columns. Displaying old photographs, antique guide-books and resort posters, the museum itself provides a colourful and entertaining introduction to the history of the travel industry.

The Juraj Šporer Art PavilionOccupying the site of the former Benedictine monastery buildings, this elegant colonnaded structure originally served as a seafront café. Lovingly restored, and named after one of the pre-World War I medical men who popularized Opatija as a health resort, the pavilion now hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Park sv. Jakova 1, tel. 27 22 25. Admission free.


37OPATIJA


The Girl with a SeagullDefinitely one of the most pictured motifs through which Opatija presents itself to the world is the sculpture of a girl with a seagull on her hand. It was made in 1956 by the sculptor Zvonko Car. It was placed on the same spot where the sculpture of the Madonna used to stand. Originally, the sculpture of the Madonna was put there in memory of Arthur Kesselstadt, who tragically died at sea in 1891. Due to wear and tear from the conditions near the sea, the sculpture had been damaged and was later transferred and restored. It can now be seen in St James’s Church above the Riviera.

The Croatian Walk of Fame (Hrvatska ulica slavnih)Initiated in 2006 and has become a must see spot on the city tour. This educational and tourist project honours renowned and famous Croatians who have been promoting Croatia to the world through sport, science, culture and arts success. Marble stars have been carefully placed along Opatija’s Slatina promenade and home the likes of poet Dragutin Tadijanović, tennis great Goran Ivanišević, handball player Ivano Balić, actor Pero Kvrgić and others.

Opatija’s parks and promenadesNature lovers will be pleased to know that Opatija’s Mediterranean climate has fittingly helped in the growth and protection of the lush vegetation of its parks and promenades. The close proximity of Mount Učka ensures fresh nights whilst spring tends to be the most pleasant part of the year. Opatija gets its fair share of rain which is vital in maintaining its vegetation. In winter, there is usually no frost whilst snow is very rare and short-termed. As Opatija is protected from the cold and strong winds, this also helps the vitality of its flora.

I gn io Scarpa, who bu i l t V i l la Angiol ina planted these exotic shrubs and trees thanks to his sea-roving sailors who would scatter across the world and return home wi th new plants. The cedars, sequoias, gingko, palms and oaks are still flourishing today, making this one of Croatia’s most important dendrological collections. Amongst the many interesting plants, there is a Japanese Camellia (Camellia japonica), which has with time, become a symbol of Opatija.

Park MargaritaThe second largest horticultural delight is Park Margarita which was founded right after the year 1900. It spans 3.5 acres on the slope above Slatina. Its central part has been entirely preserved, however there has been some damage along the surrounding edges due to many renovations, reconstructions and inappropriate building development. Judging by the appearance of some of the plants (oak, planika, Juda’s tree and others), you’d think that the park was much older than Park Angiolina, however it is believed that the original plants that were seeded here over a century ago were already of age.

Franz-Jozef Promenade (Šetal ište Franza Jozefa-Lungomare)One of the non-negotiable and must do activities in Opatija is to walk at least part of the way along the Franz-Jozef Promenade, a pedestrian-only path that runs along the shore from Volosko 3km to the north, or in the opposite direction to Lovran 6km to the south. Winding its way above rocky coves and passing the palm-sprouting gardens enriched with beautiful samples of cypress, oak and palm trees as well as ornate pre-World War I villas; the promenade offers fantastic views across the Kvarner Bay to Rijeka, with the lush Gorski Kotar mountains brooding in the background.

The Carmen Sylva Forest PromenadeThe 5 kilometre forest promenade on Mount Učka starts in Potok (Vrutki) and continues to Vela Fortica (Varljeni). The promenade was set up in 1890 under the name ‘Aurora’ and broadened in 1901 under the initiative and financial support of the Romanian King Karol and his wife Queen Elisabeth, a poetess who found inspiration there and wrote under the pseudonym Carmen Sylva.

The Opatija rivieraMany would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

Park Angiolina and Saint JamesIt just so happens that at the same time as Villa Angiolina was being built, Opatija’s central park was also in the making. This horticultural masterpiece of 3.64 acres is divided into two scenic parts: one that resides next to Villa Angiolina itself and the second part which is next to the Church of Saint James. The gardens simply flourish with approximately 150 different plants, the majority of which come from distant parts of the world such as Japan, China, South America, Australia and other countries.


38 OPATIJA


They say that location is the key - and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea.

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-of-the-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible year-round health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events. The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

VoloskoVolosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

LovranSitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas - many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.

KastavThere’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee).Café Wagner Maršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, [email protected], www.milenijhoteli.hr. Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana - a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescent-shaped terrace whatever the weather. Q June - August 31 Open 07:00 - 24:00. September - February 29 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. March - May 31 Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. PALBChoco bar Maršala Tita 94, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 62, [email protected], www.kraschocobar.com. Run by Croatia’s premier chocolate manufacturer, Kraš, Čokobar is a devilishly tempting destination for anyone with a soft spot for the dark stuff. The drinking chocolate they serve here is sensuously thick and luxuriant - in contrast to the vaguely brown-coloured milky drink you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside regular tea-and-coffee-type drinks, Čokobar also serves chocolate-plus-hard-liquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš chocolate sweets can be bought either individually or by the box. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:30. PAGBDesign hotel Astoria Ulica maršala Tita 174, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, [email protected], www.hotel-astoria.hr. One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It’s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PALBGrand Cafe Viktora Cara Emina 6, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 84 97, [email protected], www.milenijhoteli.hr. Plonked conveniently on Opatija’s main thoroughfare, the comfy armchairs of the Grand Café provide the perfect environment in which to tuck into an extravagant array of cakes and pastries, backed up by decent coffee and velvety hot chocolate. The hand-made sweets make great gifts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PABPalme Ulica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 18, [email protected], www.hotel-bristol.hr. Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAGB

Opatija Cafes


39MAIL & PHONES



Street ulica Square trgRoad cesta Walk šetalištePassage prolaz Way putCity centre centar Station stanica

Street smarts

Mobile phone use in Rijeka is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098, 099) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine.

T-Centar C/D-2, Korzo 32A, tel. (+385-) 0800 15 50, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Tele 2 D-2, Riva 2a, tel. (+385-51) 21 23 28, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Vip D-2, Riva 4b, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile phones

You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you‘ve decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (051 if you’re calling Rijeka for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining 8 digits.

Making the call

Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn

Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

Postal rates

Fire department 93

PostIf all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Main post office D-2, Korzo 13, tel. (+385-51) 52 55 82. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Post office B-2, Krešimirova 7, tel. (+385-51) 52 57 21. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Post office Kozala D-1, Laginjina 38, tel. (+385-51) 51 44 46. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Express MailCity Ex M-3, Milutina Barača 58, tel. (+385-51) 32 04 03, [email protected], www.cityex.hr. Also at B-1, Slaviše Vajnera Čiče 4b, tel. 32 03 36. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

DHL D-3, Verdieva 10, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 20/(+385-51) 21 52 10, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Overseas Express Trtni 69, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 27 42 22, [email protected], www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Internet CafesBluenet N-2, Franje Čandeka bb (Shopping centre Andrea), tel. (+385-51) 67 16 03, [email protected]. Computer supplies and surfing in the western outskirts. Printing, scanning and CD burning. Internet: 1h/12kn, 30min/8kn, 15min/5kn. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.


40 GETTING AROUND


Buses. The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg. and Delta Terminal. They connect all the points you need the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51.

Autotrolej, E-1, Školjić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00, 060 151 151, [email protected], www.autotrolej.hr.

Public transport

Road helpHAK - Croatian Auto Club, tel. (+385-1) 1987, [email protected], www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours a day dial (+385-) 062 77 77 77; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.


TrainCentral Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) A-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. The train station is just outside of the city centre, heading west along the coast road. Bus numbers 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32 get you there from the centre. Trains connect Rijeka with Budapest (via Zagreb), Ljubljana and Ilirska Bistrica in Slovenia (via Opatija-Matulji) and Osijek in east Croatia. The new HŽ (Croatian Railways) website has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes. Ticket office: International office in the central lobby, open 09:10 - 20:40 and domestic open 05:10 - 17:10, Fri and the day before public holidays 05:15 - 20:00. Left luggage (lockers): open 04:00 - 23:00, costs: 15 - 20kn per day.

BusesCentral Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) C-2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 20 10, [email protected], www.autotrans.hr. Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. The bus station is on trg Žabica in the city centre. Although small, it’s a hive of activity with everything you need on the concourse including left luggage, toilets, exchange offices, fast food outlets, newsstands and mini-markets. There is a public phone on Platform 1 outside the ticket office, and a couple of ATMs near the big church on the square. Take a walk across to the church and you’ll also come across a couple of pleasant cafes.

Ticket / information office open 05:30 - 21:00, tel. 060 30 20 10; (1,74 kn per minute), you should press “2” to contact the operator.

Car rentalDollar & Thrifty C-2, Riva 22, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-51) 33 79 17, [email protected], www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Express rent D-2, Trg maršala Tita 135, Opatija (hotel Kvarner), tel. (+385-51) 21 47 42, [email protected], www.expressrentcroatia.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A

Hertz C-2, Zadarska 3b, tel. (+385-51) 31 10 98, [email protected], www.hertz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

OTS N-2, Cavtatska 2b, tel. (+385-51) 21 20 27/(+385-) 099 352 06 46, [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 08:00 - 16:00 and on request, Sat, Sun on request. A

AirportRijeka Airport Hamec 1, Omišalj, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 20 40, 84 20 55/(+385-) 060 30 03 01, [email protected], www.rijeka-airport.hr. The small airport (zračna luka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka with flights to London, Stockholm, Cologne... Getting there: Catch an Autotrolej bus from Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića, 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. You can also take a taxi, or if you go by car there’s parking. For the first three hours parking costs 8kn per hour and each hour thereafter costs 2kn. A day parking ticket costs 66kn. Tickets for between 2-14 days cost 40 kn per day, and each day after the 14th day costs 30 kn.

Airline officesCroatia Airlines E-2, Jelačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-51) 33 02 07/(+385-51) 33 67 57, [email protected], www.croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Guarded parking. Ferry passenger terminal: Luka, Riva Boduli. Pay on departure. Parking 7kn per hour.

Indoor parking Zagrad, Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-51) 21 29 62, www.parkingtim.hr. 24 hour guarded parking. Price per day: 80kn, 8kn per hour between 07:00 - 19:00 and 3kn per hour between 19:00 - 07:00. Sun 3kn per hour.

Stari grad, Trg Ivana Klobučarića bb, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 55, www.parkingtim.hr. 24 hour guarded parking. Price per hour: 10kn between 07:00 - 19:00 and 3kn between 19:00 - 07:00. Sun 3kn per hour durring whole day. Daily maximum (24 hours) is 80kn per day.

HŽ Car Park, Žabica Square, tel. (+385-51) 32 01 70. Unlimited parking. Pay from your mobile on 8513. Prices: 4kn per hour, or 20kn per day. Opposite the coach station.

Tower Centre Rijeka, Janka Polić Kamova 81a, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15. Free entrance.

Parking



41GETTING AROUND


Looking for more? Just click! rijeka.inyourpocket.com


DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC42 GETTING AROUND


Ambulance 94

Police 192


FerryLocal ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.

Jadroagent D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, [email protected], www.travel.jadroagent.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Jadrolinija C-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q June - September 30 Open Mon, Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. October - May 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.Losinia Riva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 30 40/(+385-51) 23 10 77, [email protected], www.losinia.hr. Venezialines agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.Rapska plovidba Hrvatskih branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, [email protected], www.rapska-plovidba.hr.

Harbourmasters officeLučka kapetanija D-3, Senjsko pristanište 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 40 31, [email protected], www.mmpi.hr.

Travel AgenciesGoya Travel C-2, Ciottina 5, tel. (+385-51) 25 89 75, [email protected], www.goyatravel.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. AJadrotours C-2, Dolac 9b, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 71, [email protected], www.jadrotours.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. ASolen F-2, Strossmayerova 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 15 87, [email protected], www.solen.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for parking! It’s so simple. Look for the blue sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times - check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are a few kuna per hour. You can also pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.

Street parking/SMS Parking

Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms. There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you’ll pay 5 - 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage. Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.

Auto taxi Rijeka N-1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00.Cammeo R-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-51) 31 33 13, [email protected], www.taxi-cammeo.hr.Kvarner taxi, tel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.

Taxi

INA - Mlaka O-2, Zvonimirova 8, tel. (+385-) 091 497 11 69, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

INA - Školjić E-1, Školjić bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 11 71, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

OMV - Vrata Jadrana Rijeka roundabout - west, tel. (+385-51) 22 50 56, www.omv.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

Petrol Stations (0-24)

If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street Ulice A. K. Miošića - it’s behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. Open 06:45 - 21:15, Sat 06:45 - 14:15. Closed Sun. There’s always someone on duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 500kn to reclaim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card.

Towed away



43DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC

People have always been curious to discover the secrets concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails. But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal the greatest mysteries of the planet.

On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for example, that towards the end of the 19th century people from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the 1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using diving equipment they had made themselves.

Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared

with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore.

This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers. The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in places, mainly in channels where the water surges between islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands.

Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive underwater rock faces and reefs and is dotted wi th shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane which has found its way down there. And this fascinating world extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.

The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of the most attractive locations here are around the islands of Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik area.

Marine sport diving center Aleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-) 091 515 72 12/(+385-) 091 293 24 40, [email protected], www.marinesport.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.Kostrena Diving Centre Rožići 1, Kostrena, tel.(+385-51) 28 74 62, [email protected], www.dckostrena.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00.Marine Sport Dive Center Aleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-) 091 293 24 40, 091 515 72 12, [email protected], www.marinesport.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.Dive City Braće Buchoffer 18, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 41 75, [email protected], www.divecity.net. Open Mon - Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.Correct Diving Brzac 33, Malinska, Krktel. (+385-) 091 563 49 30, [email protected], www.correct-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Scuba diving

Diving Centre Kostrena





44 DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC

Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting – and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are: the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on the island of Korčula.

Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.

Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks with a special permit. And you need prior permission from the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following locations:

The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo and Palagruža

Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57

The archaeological sites at Žirje and CavtatSo long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an individual or as part of a group.

If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia, contact a registered diving instructor, school or association (see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive to depths greater than 40m.

The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile characters may become aggressive if they perceive you as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your dive when you have finished.

Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course, before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you know exactly what you’re doing!

We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!



45SHOPPING


To make sure that visitors to Rijeka have the chance to buy original and memorable souvenirs from the city which have artistic value in their own right, Rijeka’s Tourist Association has created two labels to help you choose good quality souvenirs. The labels carry the titles “Riječko izvorno” (“A Rijeka Original”), and “Osobita kvaliteta” (“Special Quality”). You can find these gifts for sale in the Tourist Information Centre on Korzo.

Shopping centres & MallsRi Department Store D-2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33 72 16. This department store first opened in 1974 with the intention of connecting a series of historical buildings on Korzo and the Riva. The building crosses the busy street in the city centre but often provokes ambiguous public reaction. Its interior, which hosts many shops and cafes, unfortunately isn’t well kept which is obvious to every visitor. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Tower Center S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, [email protected], www.tower-center-rijeka.hr. This 4-storey shrine to consumerism contains pretty much every Croatian and international high-street brand you’ve heard of, plus a huge supermarket near the entrance. With cafes on every floor, and both gambling arcade and multi-screen cinema at the top, it’s no wonder that Tower Center has become a major day-out destination for the locals - especially on Sundays, when it’s one of the few places in town that’s open. To join in the scrum, ride bus No 2 to the Janka Polić Kamova stop. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

AntiquesMali neboder C-2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, [email protected], www.antikvarijat-mali-neboder.hr. Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in

foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more. Take the time to find a classical bargain right here! QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Triton F-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, [email protected]. Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

Art galleriesLaval E-3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33, [email protected]. Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Mala galerija E-2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, [email protected], www.mala-galerija.hr. Very cute ceramics, jewellery, souvenirs including items bearing Rijeka’s “morčić” emblem - this street was once the preserve of artisans making this local jewellery. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Sina F-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2a, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 02. A little gallery behind Hotel Continental selling Morčić souvenirs and with paintings by a selection of Croatian artists. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Velčić D-1, Pod kaštelom 5, tel. (+385-51) 33 21 49, [email protected]. North of Koblerov trg, a lovely large gallery with the permanent exhibition of the artist Velčić, plus sale of works by many other Croatian artists. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

BookshopsAntikvarijat Ex-Libris D-2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 21, [email protected], www.ri-exlibris.hr. Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English - language choices. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. A

Profil Superstore S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81a, Tower Center, www.profil.hr. Multi-media store offering a reasonable selection of English-language novels, and plenty of attractively illustrated, international titles on art, architecture and design. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A

Ribook E-2, Janeza Trdine 9a, tel. (+385-51) 58 15 55, [email protected], www.superknjizara.hr. Specialised in online sales. Internet café inside with free internet use. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Tisak Maršala Tita 103, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 81, www.tisak.hr. The city’s best choice of international newspapers and magazines, including plenty of glossy English-language monthlies. Q June Open 08:00 - 22:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 23:00. September Open 08:00 - 22:00. October - June 08:00 - 21:00. A

VBZ C-2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 10, [email protected], www.vbz.hr. A large bookshop in the old town - get yer maps and guidebooks here! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Verbum E-2, Janeza Trdine 1d, tel. (+385-51) 31 60 50, [email protected], www.verbum.hr. Specialising in religious themes. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. June 20 - July 31 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Boris Sekulić


46 SHOPPING


Croatian designMari Cro design studio D-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02, [email protected], www.mari-crodesign.com. If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

DelicatessenAmec E-2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, [email protected]. Delicacy shop with a Croatian knack that offers national and imported wines, rakija, homemade cakes such as the famous Rapska cake and other savouries. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Kraš E-2, Korzo 2b, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras.hr. Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and longest-standing firms. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. June 4 - September 30 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Kušaonica Frajona C-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33. Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Pavlomir Novljansko polje bb, Novi Vinodolski, tel. (+385-51) 24 80 33. Selling local rakijas - fruit firewaters - try herb and fig. Also wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A

Piko delicije E-2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25/(+385-51) 65 03 54, [email protected], www.pikrijeka.hr. A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead! QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A

Pip E-2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Home produced honey. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Vinoteka 1 E-3, Demetrova 14a, tel. (+385-51) 21 39 24/(+385-51) 21 12 31, [email protected], www.blato1902.hr. An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Zeleno i plavo - Delicije našega kraja C-2, Trpimirova 1A, tel. (+385-51) 32 25 98, [email protected], www.zelenoiplavo.hr. A delectable variety of Croatian goodies from the regions of Gorski Kotar and Primorje led this enchanting store to win several awards. There are so many goodies to choose from, including a huge range of syrups, wines and homemade flavoursome liqueurs. Gastronomical delights include various cheeses, antipasti, seafood, whole prosciutto, jams, honeys, oils and biscuits. Ecological and woollen products make unique gifts. They even have a range of handmade souvenirs or ceramic, bronze, glass and wood designs inspired by the heritage of the aforementioned regions. Literally everything in this store makes a great gift! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

HypermarketsGetro N-1, Škurinjska cesta b.b., tel. (+385-51) 66 05 55, www.getro.hr. The cheapest place to stock up for armageddon - or buy your booze to take back home. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. A

Plodine Q-2, Ružićeva 29, tel. (+385-51) 35 28 15, [email protected], www.plodine.hr. A good quality, large supermarket. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. A

Music and DVDsCroatia Records E-2, Užarska 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 62, www.crorec.hr. Mainstream record store run by Croatia’s biggest record label, offering plenty in the way of pop and rock - both domestic and international. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Dallas Records E-2, Splitska 2a, tel. (+385-51) 33 25 24, www.dallasmusica.com. Staffed by music fans, this is your best bet if you’re seeking out a specific album or DVD. Particularly strong on alternative rock. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Stamp collectingFilatelija F-1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26. Impress the girls (or boys) with your collection. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Sanja Jakupec


47LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY


Dry cleaners & LaundriesBlitz O-3, Mate Lovraka bb (centar Plodine), tel. (+385-51) 34 30 64. Self service launderette. Also at Kumičićeva 47a, tel. 40 37 89, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Super 24 C-2, Ciottina 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 33 80. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Zambelli D-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 62. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Emergency health careKlinički bolnički centar Rijeka A-2, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51) 65 81 11, www.kbc-rijeka.hr. Rijeka’s general hospital.

Zavod za hitnu medicinsku pomoć PGŽ N-2, Branka Blečića bb, tel. (+385-) 112. 24-hour emergency health care.

Pet hotelsHappy Dog M-2, Šibenska bb, tel. (+385-) 098 960 42 62/(+385-) 091 167 11 67, www.happydog.hr. Dogs hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. N

Šapice outskirts, Zubinići 160a, Veprinac, Ičići, tel. (+385-) 099 229 93 77/(+385-) 098 965 83 30, [email protected], www.sapice.hr. Dogs hotel. Q Open by prior arrangement. N

PetsVeterinary clinic Rijeka P-2, Stube Marka Remsa 1, tel. (+385-51) 34 50 33, [email protected]. During non working hours and night shifts vet is on duty on tel: 091/ 214 88 22 which you can call in case of an emergency. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

PharmacyNight shifts are covered by the Centar Pharmacy and you will find which pharmacy is on duty on weekends and national holidays on this site: www.ljekarna-jadran.hr.

Centar D-2, Riva 18, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 01. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Kazalištu E-2, Uljarska 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Korzo D-2, Korzo 22, tel. (+385-51) 21 10 36. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Emergency number 112

A wide range of In Your Pocket guides are now available in iTunes as iPhone apps. Develo-ped in association with Meta4Labs, the apps combine all the best features of In Your Pocket guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and independent information - with the functionality of the iPhone.

You can search all venues in a city by location, and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest to you, as well as browse the app’s entire content offline. We even supply high-resolution static street and transport maps (exactly the same as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge roaming charges.

Other features include fully integrated Google Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, em-bedded In Your Pocket video guides, currency exchange calculator and local weather informa-tion. All In Your Pocket apps have native hi-res graphics for iPhone 4.

And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are updated regularly by local researchers and native English speaking writers. More than ten In Your Pocket cities are currently available as iPhone apps, and more are being released all the time.

Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac now and see if your city is In Your Pocket and on your iPhone.

The In Your Pocket iPhone App


HEALTH TOURISM48 BUSINESS DIRECTORY



Banks & ExchangesErste & Steiermarkische Bank C-2, Jadranski trg 3a, tel. (+385-) 062 37 50 00, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Hypo-Alpe-Adria C-2, Jadranski trg 3, tel. (+385-) 062 10 11 02, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Free info 24 hours on 0800 49 76 47. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.

Volksbank D-2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 76 30, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Zagrebačka banka E-2, Ante Starčevića 10, tel. (+385-51) 35 40 01, www.zaba.hr. ATMs - A. Manzoni 1, Žrtava fašizma 10, Žabica bb. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Brokerage housesFima vrijednosnice Q-3/C-2, Adamićeva 13, tel. (+385-51) 58 37 54, [email protected], www.fima-vrijednosnice.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business connectionsHGK - Županijska komora Rijeka F-1, Bulevar oslobođenja 23, tel. (+385-51) 20 91 11, [email protected], www.hgk.hr. County Chamber. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Poduzetnički informativni centar D/E-2, Trg Svete Barbare 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 20 96 19, [email protected], www.rijeka.hr. Business Information Centre. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Foreign representationsAustria E-2, Stipana Konzula Istranina 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 85 54. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Chile D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 24 24/(+385-51) 21 24 20. QOpen , Mon 07:30 - 12:00.

Denmark C-2, Splitska 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 25 22, [email protected]. QOpen 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hungary D-3, Riva Boduli 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 34 94, [email protected]. QOpen , Tue, Thu 11:00 - 13:00.

Italy D/C-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 35 52 00/(+385-51) 35 52 01, [email protected], www.consfiume.esteri.it. For an emergency call 098 / 41 46 02 or 098 41 40 48. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, Tue 08:30 - 12:00, 13:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Norway E-1, Žrtava fašizma 2/II, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 27. QOpen 08:00 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Serbia C-2, Erazma Barčića 9, tel. (+385-51) 33 74 20/(+385-51) 33 74 21, [email protected], www.konzulat-srbije-rijeka.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Sweden C-2, Riva 20/3, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 87. QOpen , Tue, Thu 13:30 - 15:30.

The Netherlands E-2, Ulica 9. rujna 11, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 19 77, [email protected]. QOpen , Tue, Fri 09:00 - 12:00.

Interpreters & TranslatorsCiklopea C-1, M. K. Kozulić 2/3, tel. (+385-51) 68 81 61, [email protected], www.ciklopea.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Lingua - Soft D-2, Korzo 30, tel. (+385-51) 31 10 00, www.lingua-soft.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Real estateDogma B-1, Ciottina 24b, tel. (+385-51) 34 10 80/(+385-51) 34 10 81, [email protected], www.dogma-nekretnine.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Kvarner B-1, Slaviše Vajnera Čiče 18, tel. (+385-51) 21 26 53/(+385-51) 32 33 12, [email protected], www.kvarner-nekretnine.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by appointment.

Lider plus D-1, D-2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-51) 30 10 44/(+385-) 091 132 40 33, [email protected], www.lider.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

Tax



HEALTH TOURISM 49

Health tourism in Croatia has a history dating back to 1868 when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to health and wellbeing.Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the 19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889, Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort. Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica, Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is very beneficial for the respiratory system.The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed the development of seaside tourism as we know it today. Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing can find the following services here: seawater treatments (thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either independently or within hotels.Health tourism has great potential for future development in this region due to the well-preserved natural environment, the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff, medical services which meet European quality standards, prices which are significantly lower than in many other developed countries and proximity to most European capitals.

BasicsFor all information related to health tourism, accommodation, events, gastronomy, culture and more, call into any tourist information centre in the region, or read more at www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/hotel, www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/concerts-culture-events-entertainments and www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/food-drink.ClimateThe region surrounding Rijeka and Opatija falls within Primorsko-Goranska County, which is divided into three geographic regions: the coastal belt, the uplands region and the islands.The uplands region (known as Gorski kotar) is thickly forested with a wealth of flora and fauna and a large national park, Risnjak. With no polluting industry and very sparsely populated, this region has sparkling-clean air and a sub-Alpine climate. In the summer months, this is a great place to enjoy refreshing breezes and cool nights - a good night’s sleep is guaranteed!The coastal region occupies a crescent-shaped belt encompassing the gulf of Rijeka and the Vinodol channel. It stretches from the foot of Mount Učka, skirting the hills that fringe Gorski kotar to the north and northeast. Here, a mild and pleasant Mediterranean climate is tempered by

the proximity of the mountains. In the winter months the strong, cleansing bura wind blows from the north. There’s a considerable amount of rain in winter, and snow is not unknown. This temperate climate results in a proliferation of trees and plants that makes this coastline so attractive and the air so healthy. The island region is divided into two island groups. These comprise Cres, Lošinj and a number of smaller islands in the west, and an eastern group including Krk and Rab and several uninhabited islets. The climate on the islands is warmer and drier than on the mainland, and the environment no less pleasant for that. The four largest islands just mentioned enjoy more than 217 clear days on average every year. The sea temperature during the summer months is an enjoyable 26°C, while in the winter experienced sea swimmers brave bracing waters at 18°C.Disabled GuestsAll public parking areas have marked spaces for disabled drivers. In Rijeka most major junctions are equipped with signal-controlled pedestrian crossings, 49 of which have audible signals enabling blind and partially-sighted pedestrians to cross safely.The City of Rijeka provides transport services for disabled residents and tourists through the Autotrolej transport company. Please call 0800 11 66 Monday - Friday from 07:00 to 13:00 to arrange services, which run from 07:00 to 20:00 Monday - Thursday, and from 07:00 to 23:00 Friday - Sunday. Services run each day of the year, including public holidays. Transport services cover the city of Rijeka, and it is also possible to arrange a ride to the following public health institutions outside the city: the thalassotherapy facilities in Opatija and Crikvenica, the orthopaedic clinic in Lovran and the psychiatric hospital in Lopača. More information (Croatian only) on www.autotrolej.hr.Most beaches have facilities for disabled bathers, including wheelchair access, disabled toilets and ramps for entering the sea. Licenced lifeguards are on duty on busy public beaches. Some hotels have rooms which are fully adapted for disabled guests, while many restaurants, swimming pools and campsites have wheelchair access.

Thalassotherapia


50 HEALTH TOURISM


Arriving to KvarnerRijeka is an important transport hub. It has a railway and coach station, a busy port and an international airport (the latter is located on the nearby island of Krk, and is accessible by road bridge). Rijeka is just a few hours’ drive from the following cities: Budapest, Ljubljana, Milan, Munich, Venice and Vienna. For more information on how to get to Rijeka by air, sea, car, coach and rail please see www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/arriving-transport. If you are coming to the Opatija riviera by car from the direction of Zagreb, your best bet is to bypass Rijeka and travel a further 15km to the west, thus avoiding city traffic. If you’re coming from the direction of Italy or Slovenia, take the turn for Opatija at Matulji. If you’re travelling to Crikvenica, Selce or Novi Vinodolski, bypass Rijeka and use the coastal road that heads to the south, which is signposted for Split with yellow local route signs (don’t follow the green signs which will take you inland onto the motorway). If you’re arriving by air, you can reach the city centre by catching the Autotrolej bus or by taking a taxi. See www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/arriving-transport for more information. If you’re arriving at Pula airport, head for the city main coach station at Trg I. Istarske brigade; from here you can catch frequent bus services serving Rijeka, Opatija, Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski. For timetable information check out www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.

Getting aroundFrom Rijeka you can travel to the Kvarner islands by ferry and passenger boat: see www.jadrolinija.hr for timetables. Krk island is connected to the mainland by a road bridge which lies about 50km south from the city. Follow signs for the airport or Krk.The main coach station in Rijeka is on the Žabica square.Frequent services run from here to resorts on the Opatija Riviera, the islands and other parts of the Kvarner coast. There are also direct bus services from the airport to Opatija and Kraljevica. The timetable for these local bus services is on www.autotrolej.hr.

Where to stayAuthentic Baška Zvonimirova 62, Baška, tel. (+385-51) 85 61 25, [email protected], www.authenticbaska.com. Newly renovated old houses in the Baška historical quarters, 7 apartments decorated in the coastal style as preserved ancient elements combine with the new.

Balatura Mali Sušik 2, Tribalj, tel. (+385-51) 45 53 40, fax (+385-51) 45 53 44, [email protected], www.hotel-balatura.hr. An interesting hotel in the village of Tribalj, 6km inland along the Vinodol valley. This small hotel has been created in a 300-year old building by a German family looking for their oasis far from the pressures of modern life. A great place to enjoy peace and good home cooking.

Kukuriku Trg Lokvina 3, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 15 19, fax (+385-51) 69 18 23, [email protected], www.kukuriku.hr. Located in the heart of Kastav, a rich wine and gastronomy offer, carefully designed rooms and furniture, each room has a different aromatic code.

Nada Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, fax (+385-51) 85 72 05, [email protected], www.nada-vrbnik.hr. Apartments set in old stone houses with restored furniture, backyards filled with Mediterranean plants, a true oasis and an escape from the busy everyday life.

Runolist Travnička 3, Crni Lug, tel. (+385-) 091 205 67 29, [email protected], www.runolist.gorski-kotar.com.hr. Head to the mountains for some peace and quiet, wooden mountain cottages in the Gorski kotar area with all the necessities you could consider. Only 30km from the sea.

Available treatmentsA wide range of treatments and programmes are available in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beauty treatments and more. There are also a number of centres offering thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments are based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surgeries, as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health insurance system.

Following your treatment you will probably want to make the most of your stay. You can take full advantage of your surroundings by exploring and sightseeing, enjoying outdoor sports, and sampling the local cuisine and culture. The region around Rijeka has a great deal to offer. One of the best exercises for anyone recuperating from medical treatment is walking in the fresh air. Around Rijeka, there are long seaside promendades connecting Opatija with its surrounding resorts, in the Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski areas, and on the islands (Lošinj in particular has over 130km of signposted footpaths). For those feeling up to something a little more energetic, there are upland hiking and biking trails.Apart from that, the area has a wealth of attractive diving sites: read more about them in Diving in the Adriatic. There are national parks and nature parks, and many other sites of great natural interest and beauty to explore. Added to that, there’s the healthy, delicious local cuisine and a range of excellent wines to sample. With all this in mind, we’ve selected a number of places which we feel are particularly worth visiting. We hope that this will help you decide how to make the best use of your free time while you are here.

Icing on the Cake



HEALTH TOURISM


52 HEALTH TOURISM


Clinics & HospitalsKatunar Dr. Ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 51 32, [email protected], www.crikvenica-info.com. All-round heath care services, check-ups, tests, samples and more. Website available.

Medico E-1,E-2, Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/(+385-51) 26 39 91, [email protected], www.medico.hr. State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email. Q A

Medikol grupa O-3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51) 68 80 30, fax (+385-51) 68 80 39, [email protected], www.medikol.hr. Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised medical departments, centrally positioned. Contact via phone or email.

Pro Vita C-2, Trpimirova 2/1 , Rijeka, tel. (+385-51) 35 24 60, [email protected], www.poliklinika-provita.hr. Full range of specific and general examinations, check-ups also available. Full details on website or contact via email.

Villa Elite Nova cesta 46b, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, [email protected], www.zgaljardic.net. Hospital clinic for maxillofacial, general and plastic surgery. More info via website.

Zambelli E-1, Žrtava fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75 55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, [email protected], www.mariozambelli.com. Specialising in aesthetic surgery, modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via phone or email.

DentistsDental Studio Vukanović K-3, Lošinjska 16, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 60, [email protected], www.dental-vukanovic.hr. A complete list of dental services with the patients needs priority one. Contact them for more info.

Dentin - Dr. Jasminka Bočina M-2, Kršinićeva 16/1, tel. (+385-51) 64 50 01, [email protected], www.ordinacija-bocina.hr. Private dental practice, aesthetic and conservative dentistry. More info via website.

Dentorium D-2, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 75, [email protected], www.dentorium.hr. Specialists in aesthetic implantology and prosthetics. Website has all the information. Q A

Dent Vitalis O-3, Krešimirova 60, tel. (+385-51) 37 10 64, [email protected], www.dentvitalis.com. Centre for implantology, prosthetics and general dentistry. All details are on their website. Q A

Dr. Blašković R-2, Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62 17, [email protected], www.blaskovic.com. Dentistry is the key as they offer complete dental services. View their website or contact via phone or email.

Dr. Jelušić Matuljska cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 50, [email protected], www.jelusic.com. Centre for dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam tech. Visit their website or contact via email.

Dr.Karolina Kokić Borić Ivana Zajca 4, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 12 83, [email protected], www.ordinacija-kokic-boric.hr. All dental treatments, aesthetic dental work, all ages. More info via website.

Dr. Prpić F-2, Strossmayerova 3, tel. (+385-51) 37 71 35, www.dentalprpic.hr. Private dental practice offers dental diagnostics and therapy. Full details on the web or contact them via email or phone.

Kalamar Implant Dentistry Izviđačka 2a, tel. (+385-51) 26 23 63, [email protected], www.dental-tourism-croatia.co.uk. All types of dental treatment, surgery and therapy on offer. Visit their website.

Pavličević - Kustić Preradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 24 15 22, [email protected], www.pavlicevic-kustic.hr. Family tradition, all dental procedures on offer. More info on their website.

Rident M-2, Ulica Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64 89 00, [email protected], www.rident.hr. All necessary dental treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel free to contact them for more information.

Škodadent M-2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 37 66, [email protected], www.skodadent.com. Private clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit their website.

Smile Studio M-2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86 78, [email protected], www.smilestudio.hr. Varied dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their website for details.

Bio&Bio D-2, Ivana Zajca 24, tel. (+385-51) 32 14 82, www.biobio.com. Eco/Organic food products, supplements and cosmetics store. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

L’occitane C-2, Korzo 40b, tel. (+385-51) 58 30 32, www.loccitane.hr. Natural French cosmetics from the Provence and Mediterranean region, we recommend immortelle based beauty line for adult skin. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

LS Kozmetika, [email protected], www.lskozmetika.hr. Natural handmade cosmetics used for healing, developed from scented herbs from the Lošinj-Cres archipelago. All products can be found on the island hotels Punta, Aurora and Apoksiomen, as well as in the Muškardin pharmacy.

Nikel, www.nikel.com.hr. Natural cosmetics line, 61 products, find them in all dm-shops and selected pharmacies. More info via website.

Organic & Natural


53


Health & SpaGordana Poščić R-3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+385-51) 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 09, [email protected], www.fizio-gp.hr. Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre with monitored treatment. For more info visit their website or contact them via email.

Laurana Spa Šetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 38 51, fax (+385-51) 29 34 51, [email protected], www.centar.wellness.hr. Medical wellness centre, various therapeutic services and saunas, Kneipp showers and gym. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Terme Selce 1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 40 55, fax (+385-51) 76 83 10, [email protected], www.terme-selce.hr. If you decide to do something for your long term health and wellbeing by enrolling in a programme at the Terme Selce medical facility, you have the option to stay in one of their comfortable on-site apartments complete with kitchenette and internet connection. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. (4 apartments). A

Thalassotherapia Crikvenica Gajevo šetalište 21, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 77 77, fax (+385-51) 40 77 63, [email protected], www.thalasso-ck.hr. Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment of respiratory organs and the locomotor system.

Thalassotherapia Opatija Maršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, [email protected], www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. The truest expression of Opatija’s famous health tourism - it’s connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy spa and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, tastefully decorated accommodation with a seawater pool and healthy restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

WellnessWellness centres offer a great range of services ranging from medical treatments, beauty programs and relaxing remedies.

Comfort Zone Spa & Wellness Aurora Sunčana uvala, Mali Lošinj (Hotel Aurora), www.losinj-hotels.com. Mediterranean décor, luxury spas, swimming pools, facial and body treatments with autochthonous elements.

Comfort Zone Space Bonavia C-2, Dolac 4 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), www.bonavia.hr. Choose from relaxation treatments, beauty programmes, thematic bath showers and saunas, fitness.

Five Elements Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija (Hotel Ambasador), www.liburnia.hr. Wellness with water! Numerous swimming pools, saunas, baths, massage showers, and ice fountain.

Five Elements Ma rina Aleja Slatina 2, Moščenička Draga (Hotel Marina), www.liburnia.hr. Wellness dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals (Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials.

Novi Spa Hotels & Resort, www.novi.hr. The largest wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offering massages, swimming pools, fi tness centre and various beauty treatments. The rejuvenation haven!

Croatia Medical Travel Milutina Barača 20, tel. (+385-51) 34 30 59, [email protected], www.croatia-medical-travel.com.

Health Tourism Agency



54 HEALTH TOURISM


Alternative medicineMany people consider alternative medicine to be an excellent supplement to conventional medical treatments. In Croatia, some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in the area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is an association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alternative medicine in the country. On its website, www.huped.hr, you’ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches of alternative medicine.Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart from that, you’ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and oriental massage.

Fitness & BeautyKantrida V-3, Istarska bb (Kantrida Swimming pools), tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, [email protected], www.blue-gym.com. Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness, massage, medical programs. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun.

Scipion Milutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68 45 76, [email protected], www.scipion.hr. Physiotherapy, recreation and physical preparation of athletes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun - (fitness). Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun - (physiotherapy).

Field tripsBirdwatchingIn this region there are several sites where you can spot birds. Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information, see Birdwatching Croatia.The Dolphin Path, Lošinj islandLošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. The best known of these is the Dolphin Path which skirts the southern part of the island. Since the waters around the island have been designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of the friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the Blue World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet.org), visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors’ centre in Veli Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one! Journeys through Dobrinj, Dobrinj, Krk island This attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island’s authentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85 21 07 or 84 83 44.Mount UčkaThe forested slopes of Mount Učka of fer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildl i fe and of fers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range. More info on www.pp-ucka.hr. The Tramuntana I path at Beli, Cres island12km long, this path leads through about 10 educational stations, including the Caput Insulae Eco Centre at Beli where you can learn about the island’s wildlife and culture. The path then leads to the mediaeval church of St Simeon, an ancient Illyrian settlement, and oak and sweet chestnut forests. Along the way you can read about natural and cultural heritage points of interest. For more information, call (+385-51) 84 05 25.

AugustKrk island fig festivalIf you’re on Krk around the end of August, this festival gives you the chance to sample all kinds of food and drink based on the sweet, sweet fig in its fresh and dried forms. SeptemberA Walk through AutumnWalking enthusiasts can take part in an unforgettable walking tour in the middle of September. A signposted trail takes you through rural landscapes and olive groves, historic villages and fields surrounded by ancient dry stone walls. You can call in at family smallholdings offering excellent home-cooking. Apart from all that, in Krk town there’s a market with hiking equipment and authentic local and organic delicacies for sale.

Events



HEALTH TOURISM 55


Go Gourmet

The gastronomy of this part of Croatia is based on fresh, simple ingredients: both healthy and highly enjoyable. The cuisine of the coastal belt is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean in character, and as such is low in saturated fats, with olive oil mainly used in cooking. Olive oil contains monounsaturated oleic acid which may help in keeping arteries healthy. Herbs such as garlic, parsley, sage, rosemary, bay and others are used to flavour cooking. The Mediterranean diet is varied and includes plentiful seasonal fruits and vegetables. Most families prepare food from fresh ingredients at home. All of this means that people from Croatia’s coast are often enviably healthy.While you’re on the coast, it’s a pity not to enjoy a nice piece of fresh fish. Some of the most common types include orada (sea bream), brancin (sea bass), škarpina (scorpion fish), zubatac (dentex), skuša (mackerel), tuna (meaning obvious!), srdele (sardines) and gavuni (smelt, similar to anchovies). Interestingly, however, just a few kilometres inland the food people prepare is quite different. Up in the hills, you’ll be offered vegetable stews, game, home-made dairy produce, home-smoked meats, hearty winter casseroles with beans, lentils, chickpeas, sour cabbage and pickled beets.Game ranges from rabbit, wild boar and venison to bear steaks. If you get the chance to try venison goulash, do, it’s delicious, and often prepared with cranberries, dried blueberries or prunes. You may come across unusual items such as bear paws (medvjeđa šapa) and the edible dormouse (puh). Throughout the region island lamb is considered a special treat. Alongside the famous cheese from the town of Grobnik (grobnički sir), Croatian smoked prosciutto (pršut) is irresistible.When it comes to desserts, regional specialities include smokvenjak - a cake made from pressed dried figs; presnac made from sheeps’ milk, and cakes made from the sweet juicy chestnuts that the resort of Lovran is famous for (lovranski maruni).Locally, it’s considered a healthy habit to enjoy a drop of wine at the end of your meal -a crisp white žlahtina from Vrbnik on Krk island goes down a treat.

Dobra vina Riva 20a, tel. (+385-51) 40 10 34, [email protected], www.dobravina.hr. For all wine lovers, wide range of Croatian and international wines. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Goranska borovnica Belo selo, Fužine, [email protected], www.goranska-borovnica.com. Family run farm, fresh fruit, homemade teas, soaps, jams, fruit liquors, dry fruits.

Gospoja Frankopanska 1, Vrbnik, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, [email protected], www.gospoja.hr. An agricultural collective which has a winery, a highly-regarded restaurant, a pizzeria and a wine-tasting room. This is a great place to try Krk island specialities, and you can both try and buy their wines and spirits.

Kastavski spomeni Jurja Vlaha 4, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 16 53/(+385-) 098 988 14 14, [email protected], www.kastavski-spomeni-to.hr. Situated in a building over 300 years old, you can find delicacies from the coast; rakija, cheese, marmalades, liquors, olive oil, honey and various handmade souvenirs. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Luketić vina Čavle 37, Čavle, www.luketic.hr. Wine-gastro shop, they offer carefully selected wines and other interesting items for that special occasion.

Manjon Rukavac 60, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 74 24 60, [email protected], www.helicikultura.com. If you’re fond of tucking into a meal of snails, head for the inland village of Rukavac, just north of Opatija, where the Cvjetković family will treat you to home-cooked snails à la bourguignonne, snails cooked in sauce in the Istrian style, snail salami snail paté and more.

Natura Rab Barbat 677, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 19 27, www.natura-rab.hr. Organic products from the island of Rab, olive oil, island delicacies, honey products and oh so more.

OPG Magriž 17. travanj 9, Kornić, tel. (+385-51) 85 13 51. Traditional methods to produce krčki sir (Krk cheese), wine and olive oil. Buy their products at the ‘Zeleno i plavo’ shop in Rijeka.

OPG Pintar Narodnog oslobođenja 32, Čabar, [email protected], www.pintar.hr. Offering different cheeses such as čabarski škripavac, činkel cheese, apple juice without additives, herbal liqueurs, blueberry liqueurs etc. Their products can be purchased at the market in Delnice.

Rijeka Fish Market. Get in bright and early for that fresh catch in an atmosphere that is vibrant, jovial and dynamic, a true picture of this port city.

Sirana Runolist Špilnički odvojak 5, Otočac, tel. (+385-53) 77 11 77, [email protected], www.sirana-runolist.com.hr. Say ‘cheese’! 100% natural with the assorted Lika cheese, škripavac cheese, Velebit cheese, fresh ewe milk cheese, truffles cheese and more. Can be found in the Kvarner region and the Rijeka Market.

Vidmar Mlinari 5, Vrbovsko, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 15, [email protected], www.epz.hr. Ecological honey, honey mixtures with propolis, honey liqueurs, ecological crèmes to name a few. Purchase their products at the Zeleno i plavo shop and at the Rijeka Market.


56 HEALTH TOURISM


Horse riding, JelenjeHorse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding club at Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about 20 horses, more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, warmbloods, half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way to get to know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik town itself with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of the Rječina river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: Konjički klub Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 522 18 20, 091 255866, [email protected].

Brseč, near OpatijaA mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol.Jadranovo, near Rijeka This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous pebbly coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the medicinal mud in the Lokvišće bay. The Risnjak National Park, Gorski kotar Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here: wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can take part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking - as well as indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak National Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+385-51) 83 61 33, [email protected], www.risnjak.hr.Lokve A village in the Gorski kotar region, this is where you’ll find the largest cave equipped for visitors in Croatia: the Golubinje cave, which is located in the forest park of the same name. The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which lead to the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 years old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell’s Gate), an impressive rock formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja (the “Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger throughout the summer months. There is a restaurant at the park entrance where you can sample regional specialities. Info: www.tz-lokve.hr.

Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, SkradThe Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz - or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake.Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tz-skrad.hr.The Frog Museum, LokveThis museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always played an important role in peoples’ lives. Although the less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on someone’s dinner plate, this museum has been created by someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain an insight into their secret lives, and learn about their role in the culture of the region, including literature and art. The little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba), Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-51) 83 10 99, (+385-) 098 998 63 52, [email protected], www.muzej-zaba.info. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 12 - 15kn.


HEALTH TOURISM 57


Sport

Adventure sportsTravelana D-2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385-51) 21 27 80/(+385-51) 33 65 62, [email protected], www.travelana.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

SailingYacht Club Croatia Maršala Tita 151, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 12 88, [email protected], www.aci-club.hr.

SwimmingKantrida Swimming Pools Podkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 66 66 00, [email protected], www.rijekasport.hr/BazeniKantrida. Q Open 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 22:30, Wen, Fri 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 10 - 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month.

BeachesDog Beach Woof! Woof! Dog owner’s shed delight as a 500m2 beach has been set aside for our four legged canine friends! Facilities include special beach access, rubbish bins with PVC rubbish bags and a rubber pipe dog shower. Please follow and abide all outlined rules.

City Beach. In 2011 a new city beach was created in Rijeka. The beach at Kantrida is right below the new indoor swimming pool. You could bathe there last year, but now it’s really looking good. There are clean pebbles to bathe from, a pleasant promenade planted with Mediterranean shrubs, there’s disabled access, and a sandpit for children. It has already become a favourite spot for city folk to enjoy the great outdoors, especially at sunset.

TennisKvarner Ede Jarasa 27a, Marčeljeva draga, tel. (+385-51) 62 16 01, [email protected], www.tkk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Price per hour 30 - 60kn.

Grobnik


58 KVARNER


CrikvenicaCandy-coloured buildings l ine the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days. Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable - nor as expensive - as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry).Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00, July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 30kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating. Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.

Novi VinodolskiThis ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written - an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.

Primorje

Martina Jajčević


59KVARNER



60 KVARNER


Why wouldn’t you hop to one of these while in Rijeka?

CresThe moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies. Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.The mountainous north of Cres shelters the Eco centre Caput Insulae at Beli, a non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting the natural environment of the Griffin Vulture - this is one of this rare bird’s last habitats in Europe - and helping the birds themselves to survive. Despite their scary-sounding name, Griffon Vultures are carrion-eaters, i.e. they only eat dead flesh, and as such they are valuable in preventing the spread of disease. The centre runs volunteer programmes and hosts two permanent exhibitions: The Biodiversity of the Cres-Lošinj Archipelago and The History of Beli and Tramuntana (the northen part of Cres, a karst region carpeted with sage and forest and grazed by sheep). Check out www.supovi.hr to find out more. Moving south, you come to Cres town, today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel. A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in

Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants. If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings. Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

KrkSo close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family - a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower. The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries!Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus,

Islands

Dubravka Zaja

Dražen Mimica


61KVARNER


unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt , or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil.Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

RabSometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing. One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone.Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities.Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline. The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs.

protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual clover-leaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings.Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season. For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything. Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

LošinjYou’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an Duje Klarić

Mariko Kolarz


62 STREET REGISTER


Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2Adamićev gat C-2, C-3Agatićeva E-1, E-2Alda Colonnella E-1Alessandra Manzonia A-1Ante Starčevića E-2Baštijanova P-2Bečko pristanište B-2Blaža Polića B-1Bošket U-1, U-2Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2Brajda A-1Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1Ciottina B-1, C-2Dalmatinska E-2De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3Delta F-2Demetrova D-3, E-3Dolac C-2, D-2Drage Šćitara V-2

Drenovski put P-1Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1Fiumara Q-3 / E-2Fra Serafina Schona V-2Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1Frana Supila D-1, D-2Franje Brentinija F-2Franje Čandeka N-2F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2Frankopanski trg U-1Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3Glavinićeva U-1, V-1Gomila D-1Grivica E-2Grobnička cesta R-1Grobnička riva E-3Grohovo E-1Ignacia Henckea D-2Industrijska M-3, N-3Istarska J-3

Istarsko pristanište C-2Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1Ivana Grohovca E-1Ivana Rendića B-1Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3Ive Marinkovića C-1Jadranski trg C-2Janeza Trdine E-2Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3Jelačićev trg E-2Josipa Kulfaneka R-2Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2Kalvarija E-1Kastavska G-1Kazališni park E-3Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2Križanićeva F-1

Kružna C-2Kumičićeva R-3, S-3Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1La Guardia B-1Liburnijska L-3Linićeva V-1, V-2Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3Ljudevita Matešića B-1Lorenzov prolaz D-1Lošinjska K-3Marka Remsa P-2Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3Matačićeva E-3Matije Gupca E-2Meštrovićeva L-2Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2Miroslava Krleže J-2Mljekarski trg E-2Moše Albaharija B-1Muzejski trg D-1

1 Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole2 University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art3 Maritime and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace4 City Museum5 Natural History Museum6 Palace of Justice7 St. Vitus’ Church8 St. Sebastian’s Church9 Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum10 The Roman Arch “Old Gateway”11 Old Town Hall in Rijeka12 Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower13 “Modello” Palace14 Main market15 Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc”16 Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas17 City Tower18 “Ploech” Palace19 Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes20 Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery21 Railway station22 P/B “Uragan”23 State archives Rijeka

RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus


63STREET REGISTER


Nikole Tesle A-1Nova Cesta L-2, M-2Nova Ciottina C-1Orlandov gat 3-AOsječka N-1, O-2Park Nikole Hosta D-1Park Vladimira Nazora D-1Partizanski put U-1Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2Pavlinski trg E-2Petra Zrinskog U-1Pod kaštelom D-1Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1Preluk G-2, G-3Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1Pul vele crikve E-2Put Bože Felkera V-1Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2Radićeva U-2Ribarska E-2

Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2Riva boduli D-3Ružićeva F-1Scarpina Q-3 / E-2Senjsko pristanište D-3Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2Splitska C-2Stipana konzula Istranina E-2Strohalova D-1, D-1Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2Studentska B-1Šenoina V-1,V-2Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1Šime Ljubića D-2

Školjić E-1Titov trg F-1Tizianova O-2, P-2Tome Strižića S-2Trg Grivica E-1Trg Ivana Koblera D-2Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2Trg Svete Barbare E-2Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2Trninina E-3Trpimirova C-2Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1Uski prolaz B-2Uskočka riva E-2Užarska E-2Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3Verdieva D-3

Veslarska E-2Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1Vinka Benca M-2, N-2Viškovo L-1Vodovodna E-1Vrlije V-1Vukovarska N-2, O-2Wenzelova E-3Zadarska C-2Zagrebačka D-3Zametska L-2, M-2Zanonova C-2, D-2Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1Zvonimirova M-2, N-2Žabica B-2, C-2Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1







Documents

Rijeka In Your Pocket No12