RĪGA Longyearbyen Contents - Lonely Planet Parks... · 2017-03-04 · National Marine Park of Alonnisos and Northern Sporades 160 Nordvest- Spitsbergen 162 Ordesa 168 Oulanka 174

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LISBON

Bilbao

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N O R T HA T L A N T I C

O C E A N

N o r t hS e a

BalticSea

AegeanSea

Irish Sea

English Channel

M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a

IonianSea

Tyrrhenian Sea

Adriatic Sea

M e d i t e r r a n e a n S e a

BalearicSea

Bay ofBiscay Po Danube

Ebro

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Rhô

ne

Dniester

Vistula

Seine

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ne

Elbe

Sardinia

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Wales

England

NorthernIreland

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IRELAND

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HERZEGOVINASAN MARINO

ALBANIA

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CZECH REPUBLIC

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UNITEDKINGDOM

PORTUGAL

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BULGARIASERBIA

LATVIA

LITHUANIA

SWEDEN

NORWAY

AUSTRIAHUNGARY

SPAIN

FRANCE

ITALY

ROMANIA

UKRAINE

BELARUS

RUSSIA

POLANDGERMANY

ContentsIntroduction 5

Abisko 6Abruzzo 12Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici 18Arcipelago di La Maddalena 22Atlantic Islands of Galicia 24Dolomiti Bellunesi 28Berchtesgaden 36Black Forest 40Brecon Beacons 42Cairngorms 48Carpathian 54Cinque Terre 56Connemara 62Curonian Spit 68Dartmoor 70Doñana 76Durmitor 80Écrins 86Etna 92Gauja 98Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu 102Hardangervidda 104Hohe Tauern 108Hortobágy 114Jostedalsbreen 116Jotunheimen 122Killarney 130Kornati 136Lahemaa 138Lake District 140Lake Skadar 146

Lemmenjoki 152Loch Lomond and The Trossachs 154National Marine Park of Alonnisos and Northern Sporades 160Nordvest- Spitsbergen 162Ordesa 168Oulanka 174Paklenica 180Peak District 184Pembrokeshire Coast 192Peneda-Gerês 200Picos de Europa 206Pirin 212Plitvice 218Port-Cros 226Pyrenees 232Retezat 240Sarek 242Saxon Switzerland 250Sierra Nevada 256Slovenský Raj 262Snæfellsjökull 268Snowdonia 274Swiss 280Tatras 288Triglav 294Valbona Valley 300Vatnajökull 302Vikos-Aoös 310Wadden Sea 312

Index 316Acknowledgements 320

N AT I O N A L PA R K S o f E U R O P E

Bergen

SundsvallTampere

Vaasa

St Petersburg

Pskov

Luleå

Tromsø

Trondheim

Rovaniemi

Murmansk

Hammerfest

Longyearbyen

Kristiansand

OSLO

HELSINKI

STOCKHOLM

REYKJAVÍK

TALLINN

RĪGA

N O R T HA T L A N T I C

O C E A N

N o r w e g i a nS e a

B a r e n t sS e a

G r e e n l a n dS e a

Denmark Strait

Dalälven

Spitsbergen

Jan Mayen

FaroeIslands

ShetlandIslands

Greenland

ScotlandESTONIA

LATVIA

ICELAND

NORWAY

SWEDENFINLAND

RUSSIA

AbiskoAbruzzoAigüestortes i Estany de Sant MauriciArcipelago di LaMaddalenaAtlantic Islands of GaliciaDolomiti BellunesiBerchtesgadenBlack ForestBrecon BeaconsCairngormsCarpathianCinque TerreConnemaraCuronian Spit

DartmoorDoñanaDurmitorÉcrinsEtnaGaujaGolfo di Orosei e del GennargentuHardangerviddaHohe TauernHortobágyJostedalsbreenJotunheimenKillarneyKornatiLahemaaLake District

Lake SkadarLemmenjokiLoch Lomond and The TrossachsNational Marine Park of AlonnisosNordvest-SpitsbergenOrdesaOulankaPaklenicaPeak DistrictPembrokeshire CoastPeneda-GerêsPicos de EuropaPirinPlitvicePort-Cros

PyreneesRetezatSarekSaxon SwitzerlandSierra NevadaSlovenský RajSnæfellsjökullSnowdoniaSwissTatrasTriglavValbona ValleyVatnajökullVikos-AoösWadden Sea

5

IntroductionMy first sight of Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park (p56) was through the train window as I headed south along the coast from Genoa. It was painfully brief. And the same could be said for my second… and third looks. Mere glimpses of the beautiful Ligurian coast, each a fleeting snapshot between the blinding darkness of lengthy rail tunnels.My upset with the subterranean tracks didn’t last long, however, as I was soon gaping at the full coastal splendour of the Cinque Terre from the village of Vernazza’s splendid natural harbour. Cliffs plunged into the sea, forested hills marked the horizon and ancient drystone walls formed twisting terraces above town. And there was not an unsightly train track in view.

The stunning vistas only grew in magnitude over the coming days as I ran the steep and precipitous coastal trails linking the Cinque Terre’s five medieval villages. Mix in some lovely beaches, great Italian seafood and gelato, and the park was a truly rewarding experience.

This diversity is carried through to Europe’s national parks as a whole, and that is what makes them so special. They protect areas of

coast, high-altitude peaks in the Pyrenees and Alps, and even parts of the frozen Arctic, with wildlife ranging from Carpathian squirrels and fin whales to peregrine falcons and polar bears.

Setting out to choose Europe’s top 60 national parks was no easy task, so we called on our expert writers and well-travelled Destination Editors. We asked them to tell us which parks provide the best experiences and why. The final selections were those that offered something truly unique, often an enthralling mixture of stunning natural beauty, incredible wildlife, fulfilling activities, local

culture and (occasionally) a compelling history too.But this book is intended to be more than just a

celebration of Europe’s top national parks – it’s also a practical introduction to each of them. We highlight the best activities and trails – in the case of Port-Cros (p226), one of the trails is actually below the Mediterranean’s surface! – explain how to get there and where to stay, show you the wildlife to watch out for, and even suggest itineraries.

We hope the following pages inspire you to explore more of Europe’s wild and wonderful spaces. Matt Phillips Sh

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The medieval fishing village of

Manarola in the Cinque Terre.

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Dartmoor National Park.

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Plitvice National Park.

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Picos de Europa.

34

01

N AT I O N A L PA R K S o f E U R O P E 1 6 0 1 6 1

Explore a cluster of ancient Greek islands surrounded by aquamarine seas, home to

the rare Mediterranean monk seal and vestiges of human

habitation since the Stone Age.

National Marine Park of

Alonissos Northern Sporades

oating away from Alonissos island into the heart of the marine park, you’ll see dolphins leaping and spot dozens of bird

species as you approach protected caves and islands. Fish will surround you as you snorkel the azure waters and, diving deeper below the surface, you’ll discover ancient shipwrecks.

Greece’s first marine park and Europe’s largest marine protected area safeguards six islands and 22 uninhabited islets emanating from the one inhabited island of Alonissos. In Paleolithic times the islands were joined in a sheet of land with the other Sporades islands and mainland Thessaly. By the Middle Stone Age, humans had found a home at Kokkinokastro on Alonissos. The remains of a settlement here are perhaps the oldest in all of the Aegean. The story goes that the islands were later settled by the Minoans, who travelled from Crete in the 16th century BC, and it was they who introduced the vineyards and olive groves you still see today. Successive rulers

included Mycenaeans (Achilles’ father is said to be buried here), Athenians, Romans, Venetians, Crusaders and Turks. Always a strategic spot along Mediterranean shipping routes, Alonissos weathered the many changes, and today you’ll find a bustling harbour at Patitiri.

While humans were going through centuries of drama, the local sea life, birds and animals continued to thrive. The park was established to protect more than 300 species of fish and about 80 species of bird. Gioura (wild goats) are endemic to an island of the same name, and dolphins and whales cavort in these waters as well. But the reluctant star of the show is the terribly endangered Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus). With only about 600 left worldwide, half of this rarest of seals are found in Greece, and the park’s Piperi island is a main breeding ground.

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The dreamy vista of Kyra

Panagia beach on Karpathos.

B

Toolbox

Park in numbers

2260Area covered (sq km)

80Species of bird

10,200Years that humans have been active in the park area

star gazingdrivingcyclingskiinghorseback ridingguided tourrock climbingscuba diving

horseback ridingscuba diving

Extra options

kayak / canoehikingarts & culturelava viewingcaving

When to goAvoid crowds but

dive freely into warm, aqua seas by visiting in June, September or October. July and August are packed with visitors.



Extra options


Getting thereAlonissos Marine

Park encompasses a string of islands in the Sporades in the northwestern Aegean. The park lies off the coast of the mainland Pelion Peninsula, with ports at Volos or further south at Agios Konstantinos. The nearest airport is on Skiathos island, from where boats serve the park’s main island of Alonissos.

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What to spot...Alonissos has a mild Mediterranean climate. Maquis and pine and cedar forests dot the land. Rare species include Eleonora’s falcons, wild goats and Mediterranean monk seals.

MEDITERRANEAN MONK SEAL These shy, endangered seals were depicted on ancient Greek coins and mentioned in Homer’s poems. Today, fewer than 600 remain in the world, and they hide in partially submerged caves to breed.

01 Palia (Old) Alonissos to PatitiriDescend this 2.5km cobblestone trail from Alonissos’ old capital to waterside Patitiri. The fortified houses were built to protect against pirates.

02 Kalovoulos Mountain Climb the eastern side of this 325m mountain, dense with olive groves and pine forests, in time to arrive for sunset views over its steep western side.

03 Kyra Panagia MonasteryBoat to Kyra Panagia island, then walk up to this ancient monastery on an east-facing cliff. From AD 963 the island was a source of thyme honey, olives and wheat for the Mount Athos monasteries.

Hike this...

BoatingZipping along the clear waters

of the marine park is the highlight of any visit. Only authorised companies are allowed into the park’s protected areas – head out with them to cruise azure coves, dive off the boat decks and picnic on white-sand beaches, or find ancient monasteries.



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DivingWith waters plied by sailing

ships since ancient times, the marine park offers the rare opportunity to play amateur underwater archaeologist. Dive deep, searching for over 300 species of fish as you seek Byzantine shipwrecks or jettisoned ancient amphorae.

Stay here...



Extra options


Liadromia HotelPatitiri’s first hotel remains one of

its finest. This welcoming and impeccably maintained place overlooks the harbour and has lashings of character. The gracious owner, Maria, takes pride in making it all work: from hand-embroidered curtains to rich buffet breakfasts.



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Paradise HotelThis neat-as-a-pin hotel lives up to

its name with its gorgeous setting above a private swimming cove. Rooms have rustic stone floors and balconies, but the real standouts are the large pool area with sweeping sunset views, and the pathway leading to the water’s edge.

Do this!ItineraryZip around azure seas in search of rare seals, falcons and wild goats. Dive in, too.

Set out early by boat from Patitiri on Alonissos to take advantage of the cool morning temperatures and the best of the daylight hours. While the boat’s captain will pick your route, a typical day would include cruising between the islands in the most protected areas of the park. You’ll stop in azure bays to dive into the

A daycrisp water and search for Mediterranean monk seals. If you’re patient, you stand a great chance of seeing dolphins, even if the seals elude you. Or become a twitcher for the day: look for species like Audouin’s gulls, shags and the mighty Eleonora’s falcon, hunting on high. When you approach Gioura island, try to spot

the wild goats of the same name as they scramble up cliff faces. At Kyra Panagia island, anchor in one of the sheltered bays and walk up the wind-buffeted eastern side to its 16th-century monastery. End the day back in the harbour at Patitiri sipping ouzo and snacking on mezedhes (small-appetiser plates).

N a t i o n a l M a r i n e P a r k o f A l o n i s s o s N o r t h e r n S p o r a d e s

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Documents

RĪGA Longyearbyen Contents - Lonely Planet Parks... · 2017-03-04 · National Marine Park of Alonnisos and Northern Sporades 160 Nordvest- Spitsbergen 162 Ordesa 168 Oulanka 174