Click here to load reader

Review - Right On · PDF fileRoR Step-by-Step Review 20130307* RMS Titanic 100th Anniversary Edition 1-400 Revell 85-0380 Kit Review . At the beginning of the Twentieth century, steamships

  • View
    3

  • Download
    0

Embed Size (px)

Text of Review - Right On · PDF fileRoR Step-by-Step Review 20130307* RMS Titanic 100th Anniversary...

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    RoR Step-by-Step Review 20130307* RMS Titanic 100th Anniversary Edition 1-400 Revell 85-0380 Kit Review

    At the beginning of the Twentieth century, steamships were the fastest means of travel across the mighty oceans. The White Star Line, a British company wanting to be the leader in that endeavor designed three new ships for carrying passengers from England to America. These ships, the Olympic, the Titanic, and the Gigantic were to be the largest ships ever built at the time. In 1909 the keel was laid for the Titanic and the Olympic simultaneously and then on May 31, 1911 they were launched within 4 hours of each other. These ships were then outfitted with the most eloquent furnishing available at the time. The interiors rivaled the most luxurious building, castles and homes in Europe. For Royal Mail Ship Titanic (RMS) Titanic though, the luxuries were not to be enjoyed for long, for she started her maiden voyage on April 10, 1912 and on April 14, 1912 at approximately 11:35 pm she struck an iceberg in the North Atlantic. Two hours and forty minutes later she was gone, along with some 1500 passengers and crew who thought the RMS Titanic was truly “unsinkable”. For the Modeler: This kit is a 100th anniversary edition of the RMS Titanic in 1:400 scale. It consists of 262 parts molded in white and black. Finished length is over 26 inches long. The instruction booklet is quite detailed, but lacks written text so diagrammatic interpretation is necessary. This kit goes together very well. The length of some of the pieces tends to cause some assembly issues but they can be overcome by using superglue instead of model cement. The instructions lead you in building sub-assemblies and then attaching them which makes for a better built model and also makes it so much easier to detail it.

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    Photo 0a shows the box art with a vivid recreation of Titanic’s fateful maiden voyage. Also there is a paint chart in the booklet but it is for paints available in Europe. You can use the paint chart on the side of the box as a guide it just doesn’t tell you which colors replaces the color code called for in the booklet. The pieces are nicely contained in three thick bags. This kit includes thread for rigging, the decal sheet, instruction booklet, and some nice added memorabilia.

    The main colors used in this build were… Hull: 2733 Ford engine red, 2721 classic black,2720 classic white..... Krylon Gloss white spray for the top of the hull and deck structures. Deck: 1167: flat tan with Polly Scale Oak Wash Deck Fixtures: gloss gray, gloss white, Stacks: fs13538 Chrome yellow and Model Master, gloss black

    Photo 15 shows the diagrams in the instruction booklet. Interpretation of pictures is needed as there are very few written words in this booklet. Photo 200 shows the call out in the instruction to cut off tabs, pins or other pieces during assembly. Failure to do this will cause severe fit issues with the model.

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    Some helpful hints, clues, guides for the builder. You will need super glue You will need a very sharp knife You will need a large, level work area You will need tweezers You will wish you had a third or fourth hand at times When the instructions say “remove the tab”

    remove it or you pieces will not fit Paint everything you can before you start your build Detail your sub-assemblies before assembling

    them to the hull Patience is a virtue and a necessity Detail your windows and portholes before you

    get too far along

    Photo 26 (left) shows two of the white sprues. NOTE how clean these parts are. I found little to no flash to remove and the only detailing was where the runners connect the parts to the sprues. The right photo shows the rest of the sprues, again nice and clean, BUT you will notice the runners are quite large on some small parts a very sharp knife is needed throughout this build.

    Photo 23 shows the pieces of the hull which is nicely detailed to show the iron plate construction. The 3 small “H” shaped pieces are supports to stiffen the hull once assembled

    I started out by washing all my pieces and letting them air dry. I then gave everything a thin coat of grey primer. I assembled the hull and prop shafts (7-8), rudder (11-12) and bilge keels (156-157) and painted them with grey primer and set aside for a day or two. Steps 2-5 The hull went together very well; the keel was the only part that required any sanding/filing to get a nice smooth finish.

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    Photo 31 shows the rudder and outer propeller shafts installed. You can fix the rudder or leave it positional as I did for detail. Before the glue sets insure your propeller shafts are even with one another.

    Photo 33 shows the bilge keels installed to the hull.

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    Photo 41 shows the stern after painting the hull Titanium black and fiery red with gloss white on the upper parts of the sides.

    Photo 38 shows the bow after painting. Starting step 6, I found there are many holes that have to be drilled out on different pieces, this needs to be done at this time as well as attaching the referenced guide wires. When attaching the lower deck (14) to the hull you must ENSURE it is seated all the way down in position otherwise the other decks will be misaligned too.

    Photo 41a Also pay attention to the fact that the ends of this deck (14) are painted wood color and the center is gloss white.

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    Photo 46 Install the lower decks. Looking astern NOTE the guy wires (thread) on the deck, install them when and where the instruction booklet shows because you will not get a second chance to install them cleanly. Due to the large size of the pieces I found it prudent to use superglue to join the deck to the hull in order to get it flush and level with its intended position. Glue a couple of inches at a time, let it set then glue a couple more inches.

    Photo 48 shows the full length of the lower deck installed in the hull

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    Photo 47 shows the beginning of the bow assembly. Note the horseshoe shaped press mark I forgot to remove prior to assembly, it is gone now though. Build steps 7 thru 10 straight forward by the book, build a sub-assembly and then attach it to the ship.

    Photo 57 shows the completion of steps 9 and 10. The ability to detail each sub-assembly really makes this kit stand out from the rest. In step 11, install the sub-assembly to the ship.

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    At steps 12 -13 you’re building and installing the foredeck

    Photo 65 shows the completion of steps 12 and 13. Paint the bollards upper half brass.

    Photo 68 shows the foredeck attached to the hull. Fitment between deck and hull is excellent!

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.

    Photo 71 shows steps 14 thru 18. Building the aft deck and the rear railing was the first real obstacle to overcome. The deck mounts just fine, but the railing comes as one long straight piece that has to be bent around the stern of the ship. The instructions call for using HOT WATER but not BOILING water. This definition is not too precise and after destroying my first railing (which Revel so kindly replaced) I improvised and used NO water just superglue. I started at one end and glued a little at a time till I reach the other end. This method produced a bad finish because I could not completely match the contour of the hull but from a display distance it is not noticeable.

    Photo 79 shows the rear railing in place. The railing comes as 1 straight piece that the book says you should warm in warm water to shape over the stern of the ship, but even then the mounting lugs do not match up and the railing is difficult to match to the contour of the stern. Also notice the ladder does not line up at all.

    Photo 82 shows another view of the rear railing. Throughout the build, the instruction sheet is very clear and concise as to part location and orientation most of the small step between here and the conclusion follow the booklet with no surprises. The ladders (47, 48) between decks do take a little finesse to get the pieces to line up correctly and the cranes, you must remember there are 2 different assemblies and they are not interchangeable on the deck mounts.

  • Right On Replicas, LLC ©2013 All rights