Restoring a Monument

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    Restoring a jmonument

    The ASI is restoring the Prohm

    Buddhist temple complex In

    Cambodia, which attracts hundreds

    of tourists every day.

    BY T.S. SUB RAMAN IAN RECENTLY IN SI EM REAP

    Gigantic silk-cotton trees have taken

    over the entire complex, splitting the

    blocks of stones and uprooting the

    galleries, causeways, shrines, and

    so on. The corbelled roofs havecaved in and the gopuras look

    pathetic with the stones dislodged.WH EN D.S. Sood stepped into the "Hall of j

    Dancers" at Prohm, the Buddhist monastic tern- j

    pie complex in Siem Reap province of Cambodia, in j

    December 2004 he shuddered at the ruins he saw

    before him. Sood, a Deputy Superintending Archae-

    ological Engineer with the Archaeological Survey of

    India (ASI), is a veteran of several challenging resto-ration projects in Sanchi, Khajuraho, Bhopal, Gwa-

    lior and Mandu in India, and at Angkor Wat in j

    Cambodia itself. But the devastation that he saw in j

    the Hall of Dancers and other structures in

    Prohm complex was too much for him.

    The Prohm complex was built by the Khmer

    king Jayavarman VII circa 1181. Originally called

    "Rajavihara" (the royal temple), it comprised a sanc-

    tum sanctorum and 39 other shrines topped with

    vimanas (towers), galleries, causeways and entrance

    gategopuras, among other structures. The king ded-

    icated the complex to his mother, Rajachudamani.

    CREEPERS ENTWINE THE silk-cotton tree to

    form a trellis over a shrine at Proh m.

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    (CLOCKWISE

    FROM TOP, left)

    The causeway in

    the P rohm

    complex, before,

    during and after

    its restoration.

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    Siem Reap is the capital city of Siem Reap

    province in north-western Cambodia, and is

    the gateway to the Angkor region, which

    served as the seat of the Khme r empir e.

    The sanctum had an image of Pragnya

    Paramita, the goddess of wisdom, and

    it was installed in 1186 CE. The image

    was modelled on the king's mother.

    Two shrines in the third enclosure

    were dedicated to Jayavarman VII's

    guru and his brother. The Hall of

    Dancers was Prohm's centrepiece,

    with 48 pillars supporting its corbelled

    roof. The pillars had exquisite carvings

    of dancing apsaras, elephants, men as-

    tride horses, floral motifs, and so on.

    Its walls had niches with friezes of

    Bodhisatvas and mythical animals.

    "The Hall of Dancers was in total

    ruins. We had no access to it," Sood

    said, recalling his first foray into it.

    "The ceiling had completely collapsed

    and it was lying in pieces on the floor.

    Most of the pillars were broken in two

    or three pieces. The porches had caved

    in," he added. There was chaos, with

    architectural members, lintel beams

    and broken pillars lying all around.

    The entire structure was clogged withwater and there was a few feet of silt.

    What was benumbing was that three

    monstrously tall silk-cotton trees [Cei-

    ba pentandra] had grown inside the

    hall, dislodging its sandstone blocks,

    driving cracks in the wall and heaving

    up thefloor."The vegetation had pene-

    trated the foundation and it was not

    safe for tourists to go inside," he said,

    as he displayed pictures of the ruins

    taken in 2004.

    Cut to June 24, 2012. "This is our

    RESTORATION WORK GOING on at

    the Hal l of Dance rs.

    THAILAND LAOS

    I VIETNAM^

    C A M B O D h

    VPhnom Penh

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    THE HALL OF DANCERS before restoration work began. The ASI te am found

    that the ceiling had completely collapsed, most of the pillars were broken in

    two or three pieces and the porches had caved in.

    plex. There were stunning sights sandstone blocks. In fact, 25 silk-cot-

    everywhere. A -metre-tall silk-cot- ton trees, each more than 200 years

    ton tree soared into the sky with its old and 30-40 metres tall, have taken

    massive roots gripping avimana. The over the entire complex, splitting the

    roots had formed a trellis over the blocks of stones and uprooting the gal-

    carvings above the shrine 's doorway, leries, causeways, shrines, pillars, lin-

    Thevimana was in a precarious posi- tel beams, and many other structures,

    tion, with the tree having dislodged its The corbelled roofs have caved in and

    work yard," Sood said softly and

    showed a group of visiting Indians

    how two broken pieces of a sandstone

    pillar with elegant carvings had been

    riveted together using steel pins by the

    ASI team led by him. The visiting Indi-an team was led by T. Satyamurthy,

    former Superintending Archaeologist,

    ASI. The air buzzed with the noise of

    small drilling machines boring holes

    into broken sandstone blocks. Some

    men were assiduously joining them to-

    gether. The pillars were from the Hall

    of Dancers. They bore numbers: obvi-

    ously Sood and his team had docu-

    mented them, knowing where they

    would fit in. "If some pillars or archi-

    tectural members are missing, we getthe sandstone blocks from the original

    quarry in the Kulen mountains, about

    35 km from here. In our restoration

    and conservationefforts,we have used

    only the original stones, and new

    stones only occasionally when it was

    totally necessary," said . . Ganju, Se-

    nior Conservation Assistant, ASI.

    "We are a team of five from the

    ASI," said Sood.

    Sood, Ganju, and E.P. Biswas and

    H. Raghavendra, both senior draft-

    smen of the ASI, led us inside the com-

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    the entrance gategopuras look pathe t- tectural members using threaded steel

    ic with the stone blocks dislodged from pins, epoxy and polymer is in progress,

    their places. The transformation tha t the complex

    Signs of vandalism are everywhere, has been undergoing is unbelievable.

    Friezes of Bodhisatvas have been Sood said: "Documents were prepared

    hacked away. Again, what would have to find out where the stones belonged

    been a series of bas-reliefs of beautiful because entire structures had col-

    Bodhisatvas on the wall of the gallery lapsed."

    between the third and fourth enclo- The ASI documented every stone

    sures have been chopped off. member layer by layer and grid by

    Apar t from trees and vandalism, grid; measured every sandstone block

    frequent shifting of the capital, and for its length, height and width; and

    invasions and internalstrifeplayed ha- recorded their quality and orientation,

    voc with Prohm, Bayon, Bantea The entire hall was photographed bit

    Srei, Beng Mealea, Prasa t Kravan and by bit. Then the dismantling of the

    other temple complexes in the prov- floor was done, the soil was treated

    ince. "When the capital was shifted appropriately and sandstone blocks offrom Siem Reap, this area was neglect- the floor and the plinth were reset. The

    ed and Prohm fell into ruins. Many original broken stones of the floors,

    trees began to grow on its structures columns and roof were repaired and

    causing their collapse. That is why joined with appropriate material and

    Prohm is popularly called Tree Tem- threaded with steel pins. It was en-

    ple," Ganju said. sured tha t all architectural members

    Right now, restora tion is under achieved the desired structural

    way in the hall. A tower crane is being strength before they were reassem-

    used to lift and put aside the fallen bled.

    architectural members afte r they are Raghavendra and Biswas assidu-

    numbered and measured in situ. The ously prepared documentation draw-

    lateri te apron along the plinth has al- ings of the plan, section and elevationready been exposed and strengthened, of the hall. "Then we prepared conser-

    The join ing of broken pillars or archi- vation drawings wherein we num -

    A SHRINE IN the firm "grip" of a

    silk-cotton tree.

    bered each and every stone before the

    wall or roof was dismantled. All the

    scattered stones were numbered,"

    Raghavendra said.

    "We started our restoration work

    by the end of 2010. Our aim is to finish

    it by 2014," Sood said. "The restoration

    of the Hall of Dancers was the most

    challenging task not only because of itsdilapidated state but because of the

    gigantic trees that were posing a threat

    to the structure . Besides, UNESCO de-

    creed that the trees should not be cut

    because it wants visitors to see the con-

    tra-distinction between the right side

    of the hall where the ASI would restore

    the roof and the left side where the

    trees would remain.

    Despite its ruined state, Prohm

    is the most visited temple complex in

    Siem Reap. It attracts hundreds of

    j tourists every day from all over the

    world. Cameras click away endlessly as

    tourists pose for pictures. When theTHE ENTRANCE GOPURA, before (facing page) and after restoration.

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    branches of the trees sway, the struc- the inner core made of laterite blocks, skrit in Khmer script in the complex,

    tures also move, making the tourists It was built in "Sarvato Bhadra" style, which conveys t hat a township of

    gasp in astonishment. "Every day, that is, it had access from the four 12,460 people flourished between the

    from 9 a.m. there are long queues of directions. Galleries and entrances four th and fifth enclosures. The com-

    tourists to look at the trees growing had corbelled, vaulted roof. As Mi- plex had 19 Buddhist high priests. The

    over thevimanas," Sood said. chael Freeman and Claude Jacques, in inscript ion says it had 500 kilograms

    Prohm is concentric in plan. It their well-researched book entitled each of gold and silver, diamonds

    has five rectangular enclosures and Ancient Angkor, explain, "...the device weighing 35 kg, and 4 ,600 pearls,

    four entrances, one in each direction, known as corbelling was sufficient and When the ASI was restoring the Hall of

    It is 1,150 m long and 663 m wide. The simple to execute with no need for Dancers in March this year, it found a

    entire complex, including the com- scaffolding. Each higher stone course beau tiful golden crown under thepoundwalls,the entrancegopuras, the projects a little over the one below, floor. Sood argues that the Hall of

    39 shrines, galleries, causeways, andso until the sides finally meet at the top." Dancers itself "was not a hall for danc-

    on, was built of sandstone blocks, with There is a long inscription in San- ers but a place where the Buddhist

    THE RUINED STATE of the gallery located between the third and fourth

    enclosures before its restoration; (below) scaffolds erected for its

    restoration; and (right) after the restoration was completed in 2010.

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    monks sat in meditation". Prohm unique coexistence of trees and heri- ed the structures. The disadvantage is

    suffered desecration a t the hands of tage". Prohm was "different fro m tha t if the single core is removed, then

    Jayavarman VIII, who was a Hindu, the monumen ts in India because it has the entire structure will collapse."

    During his reign, the carvings and a single core", he said. The complex UNESCO declared Angkor a

    sculptures of the Buddha, Avalokitis- was buil t by piling stone blocks one World Heri tage Site in December

    vara and others in the Buddhist pan- upon the other. No mor tar or binding 1992, and Angkor Wat, Prohm,

    theon were systematically hacked or mater ial was used to cement them. So Prea Khan, Bayon, Beng Mealea and

    destroyed in Prohm, Bayon, Prea when the trees grew over the structur- other complexes were recognised as

    Khan, Bateay Kdei and other complex- es, the roots could not grow deep into World Heritage Monumen ts. After an

    es. the core of the structures because there inter-governmental conference in To-

    Satyamurthy, who has restored was no masonry inside. Satyamurthy kyo in 1993, an Interna tional Coor-scores of ruined monuments in India, said: "The trees look like a mot her em- dinating Commit tee (ICC) was

    described t he complex as "an out- bracing her child. The advantage is established to oversee the restoration

    standing mon ume nt where there is tha t they have not completely uproot- work at Angkor. The committee meets

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    several times a year in plenary and

    technical sessions. On their part, the

    Khmers themselves have established a

    body, APSARA (Authority for the Pro-

    tection of the Sites and Administrat ion

    of the Region of Angkor).

    The Government of India offered

    to restore and conserve the Prohm

    complex with its own funds. That is

    how the ASI stepped into Prohm in

    December 2004. A board in the com-

    plex says,"Apartnership project of the

    Archaeological Survey of India with

    APSARA National Authority in coop-

    eration with UNESCO...."

    Sood said: 'When we first came

    here, we analysed the temple, its struc-

    ture and so on, and gave a report to theASI. More than 65 per cent of the com-

    plex had collapsed. We studied the

    monuments [structures], their beha-

    viour, tendency, stability, how they

    were built, the materials used in their

    construction, why the structures col-

    lapsed, what kind of conservation was

    needed, the quantum of restoration

    needed, etc. Generally, we preserve the

    monuments and give support to the

    structures. If some restoration is re-

    quired, we do it. We want to conserveand restore. We do not want to add any

    thing new."

    After analysing the entire monu-

    DETAILS OF A torana in the Prohm complex.

    ment, the ASI decided that it would locations, where trees had grown on

    restore five structures - the third en- the roof of the structures, were ident i-

    closure gallery on the eastern side of fied for a support system. Nearly three

    the south wing; the causeway connect- years of extensive documentat ion,

    ing the third and four th enclosures on studies and analysis gave the ASI team

    the west; par t of the Hall of Dancers; a tremendous insight into how "to re-the entrancegopura of the four th en- spect, conserve, and maintain the au-

    closure on the western side; and the thent icity and integrity of the temple

    entrance gategopura of the fifth enclo- complex".

    sure on the west. Besides, nine critical The restoration work proper began

    FROM LEF T, D. s. Sood, the ASI te am leade r; . . Ganju, senior conservation

    assistant; and H. Raghavendra and E.P. Biswas, both senior draftsman, at

    the Prohm complex.

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    in 2007, with about 200 Cambodian

    workers, including 20 skilled workers,

    assisting the ASI team. Since the resto-

    ration and conservation work is multi-

    disciplinary in nature, the ASI took the

    help of the Forest Research Institute

    (FRI), Dehradun; Water and Power

    Consultancy Service Limited (WAP-

    COS), New Delhi; and the Indian In-

    stitute of Technology Madras. The FRI

    helped in conserving and maintaining

    the trees.

    WAPCOS did hydrological, drain-

    age and ground-penetrating radar