Reinhold Messner (1b)Expeditions[edit]To 1970[edit]Up to 1970 Reinhold Messner had made a name for himself mainly through his achievements in the Alps. Between 1950[citation needed]and 1964, he led over 500 ascents, most of them in theDolomites. In 1965, he climbed a newdirettissimaroute on the north face of theOrtler. A year later, he climbed the Walker Spur on theGrandes Jorassesand conquered the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero. In 1967 he made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Agnr and the first winter ascents of the Agnr north face andFurchettanorth face.In 1968 he achieved further firsts: theHeiligkreuzkofelmiddle pillar and the direct south face of theMarmolada. In the following year, Messner joined anAndesexpedition, during which he succeeded, together withPeter Habeler, in making the first ascent of theYerupajaeast face up to the summit ridge and, a few days later, the first ascent of the 6,121 metre-high Yerupaja Chico[9]He also made the first solo ascent of theDroitesnorth face, the Philip intersection on theCivettaand the south face of Marmolata di Rocca. As a result of his achievements, Messner won the reputation of being one of the best climbers in Europe. So, in 1970, he was invited to join a major Himalayan expedition. In the light of his later successes, the year 1970 can be regarded as one of the turning points in Messner's life.

Climbs of the eight-thousanders after 1970[edit]Reinhold Messner was the first man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world and without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are:Climbs of the eight-thousanders after 1970[edit]Reinhold Messner was the first man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world and without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are:YearPeak (height in metres)Remarks

1970Nanga Parbat(8,125)

1972Manaslu(8,163)

1975Hidden Peak(Gasherbrum I) (8,080)

1978Mount Everest(8,848),Nanga Parbat(8,125)First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen.Nanga Parbat: first solo ascent of 8000er from basecamp

1979K2(8,611)

1980Mount Everest(8,848)First to ascend alone and without supplementary oxygen during the monsoon

1981Shishapangma(8,027)

1982Kangchenjunga(8,586),Gasherbrum II(8,034),Broad Peak(8,051)Also failed summit attempt on Cho Oyu during winter

1983Cho Oyu(8,188)

1984Hidden Peak(Gasherbrum I) (8,080),Gasherbrum II(8,034)At one time without returning to basecamp

1985Annapurna(8,091),Dhaulagiri(8,167)

1986Makalu(8,485),Lhotse(8,516)