8/8/2019 Reflections. From The Paddler 1988.

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To circumnavigate an island isalways a particularly satisfyingcanoe trip and we are fortunate inwest Scotland to have such a wealthof wild and beautiful islands tochoose from.

Each person will have his ownparticular favourite and in mattersof taste there are no best buysbutI have always found Skye to be bothchallenging and rewarding on ascale rather greater than most otherislands. Partly this is a matter of

size, for its coastline of nearly 300miles is a demanding course for theusual fortnights this distance maybe reduced by a third by crossingdirect from headland to headlandwhen time is short and sea conditionspermit. For those prepared toportage, it is practicable to make sixmile overland crossings either fromLoch Harport to Sligachan or fromLoch Snizort Beag to Portree, withlarge savings in sea miles but at thecost of missing some of the finestcoastal scenery.

The island has the advantage of being

very close to the mainland atKyleakin and Kylerhea, so that noexposed sea crossings are involved

unless by choice, and the deeplyindented coastline offers shelter inmany conditions of bad weather. Ihave encountered relatively few tidalhazards apart from overfalls off NeistPoint in Duirinish, at Rubha Huish to

the north ofTrotternish, reef andshoals around Pabbay and the tidalrace through Kylerhea. This last canbe used to advantage by timing thepassage for a fair tide.

Sleat offers easy landings, pleasant

landscape and magnificent views ofthe mountains of Kintail andKnoydart. After Point of Sleat theviews are dominated by themountains of Rum and the Cuillin ofSkye. Loch Eishort and Slapin areoverlooked by Blaven and the RedHills. If boots are carried, these may

be climbed from the head of LochSlapin. Beyond Strathaird Point youare into Loch Scavaig and shelteredfrom the west by the island of Soey.From the head of Loch Scavaig it is ashort easy walk, to Loch Caruisk andone of the finest mountain prospectsin the British Isles. The sea route

round the south end of the Cuillinthrough Soey Sound leads to LochBrittle and the gregariously inclined

BYJOHNPARK

8/8/2019 Reflections. From The Paddler 1988.

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Will find lots of company at thepopular campsite at the headof theloch. Sgurr Alasdair can easily beclimbed from here, if a day ashorecan be spared.

West of Loch Brittle , LochEynort hasgood shelter but from there toDunvegan lies a stretch of coastlineto be approached with care. There isshelter in Loch Bracadale but fromIdrigil point toDunvegan head liessixteen miles of the highest sea cliffs

in Britain, apart from St Kilda. FromRamasaig bay to Waterstein Headespecially, the coastline is so savageas tobe frightening and from NeistPoint to Dunvegan Head is not muchbetter, though Loch Pooltiel mayoffer a temporary refuge. AfterDunvegan Head, there are two major

promontories to round beforereaching the shelter of Staffin Bay onthe east coast. These are VaternishPoint and Rubha Hunish, the mostnortherly point on Skye Thecoastline is rocky but broken and hasnot the unrelenting savageness of theDuirinish coast.

From Staffin southwards, you aresheltered from westerlies bythe longmountain ridge of Trotternish,running from the Quiraign in thenorth to Stoerin the south. Thoughthis range offers magnificent highlevel walking, it isnot accessible fromthe sea, owing to the near continuousline of cliff from Staffin to Portree.

There arefew landing places onthisshore and if sea conditions willallowan eight milecrossing to South Rona,the canoeist will find a morehospitable shore by following thewest coasts of Rona and Raasaysouthward. There is a particularlyfine bay at Inbhir,but no habitation.After Raasay, Scalpay seems theobvious choice of island have,or had,a reputation of not welcoming casualvisitors so unless you delight inconfrontations, it may seempleasanter to avoid an overnight stop.From Scalpay to Kyle looksstraightforward but I haveencountered severe squalls onseveral occasions inBroadford Bay,and with nasty reefs and shallowsaround, have learned to treat thisarea with respect.

I hope this briefsurveyof Skye as acanoe touring ground will be ofinterest to those members who havenot yet explored its shores. Likeother Scottish waters, the difficultieslie mainly in weatherconditions, butin Skye, weather is seldom calm for

long. Itsstorms tend also to be shortlived and its scenery is impressive inall conditions.

So, think of Skye for your next tour!Given average weather conditions, Iam sure you will not be disappointed.

John Park

Taken from Spring issue 1988