REFIX Vol. 2

Vol. 2s u s t a i n a b i l i t y | e t h i c a l f a s h i o n | e c o c u l t u r es u s t a i n a b i l i t y | e t h i c a l f a s h i o n | e c o c u l t u r e Vol. 2s u s t a i n a b i l i t y | e t h i c a l f a s h i o n | e c o c u l t u r e Vol. 2Vol. 2s u s t a i n a b i l i t y | e t h i c a l f a s h i o n | e c o c u l t u r e

CoverPhotography: Louiza Vickwww.louizavick.com

Model: Ari CooperArt Direction: Andrea KrystineHair/Makeup: Adriana LopezDress: Emily Factor - www.emilyfactor.com

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EDITOR IN CHIEF/CREATIVE DIRECTOR: ANDREA KRYSTINE

[email protected]

INTERNS:CAMILLA DOIG LORENTZEN

JANA ROWLAND

EXCLUSIVE FIXTAPE:88:88

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS:LOUIZA VICK

STEPHANIE KAITLYN PHOTOGRAPHYCHAZ CRUZ

EMILY SANDIFER

PRODUCED BY:ECOLOGIQUE FASHION

FOR ADVERTISING INQUIRIES OR SUBMISSIONS EMAIL:

[email protected]

REFIXMAG.COMTWITTER: @REFIXMAGFACEBOOK: /REFIXMAG

REFIXREFIX

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32

06 Editor’s Letter

08 FIXTAPE .01 Produced by 88:88

11 Friendlier Fashion Sustainable Feature

14 How Easy- Fashion Spread Featuring Emily Factor

29 Dressomorphosis Designer Feature

30 Michelle Lowe-Holder Designer Feature

34 Ava Catherside Designer Feature

38 Mr. Wingate Designer Feature

40 Cut by Wesley Designer Feature

42 Rapanui Sustainable Feature

46 As if- Fashion Spread Featuring Hunt & Gather

58 Hi Sonia Interview with Founder of IN-STEAD

62 Your Holiday Style Guide by mygreenlipstick.com

Produced by Ecologique Fashion. Editor-in-Chief- Andrea Krystine. refixmag.com

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Contents

11.11 - Vol. 2

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38

44

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60

refixmag.com

Moving to a new city is difficult… it’s all about change; changing the places you shop, work, or visit on a daily basis. It’s an uncomfortable feeling that forces you to adopt a new perspective, and with minor --ok, some major-- lifestyle adjustments, can eventually result in a more accom-modating “home” feeling. Change is essential to growth. Our magazine is a bit like this. It intro-duces people to new ways of thinking and living- perhaps not new, but old, pre-industrial ways of thinking and living- that bring a better balance to ones life and the lives around them. With the world being in a state of confusion and discord, we’ve got to hit the refresh button and start realizing the potential we hold within us. This issue of REFIX displays the talents of innovators that all share this passion for humanity, self-expression, and the earth.

While scheduling photo shoots and putting together this compilation of articles, fashion spreads, and interviews, I became very intrigued with writers from the late 1800’s. To read their commen-taries on the world at that time had me feeling a bit of envious of what I could only imagine the organic sights, smells, and tastes had been like in that time. One particular writer stood out to me -Henry David Thoreau. In his book Walden, Thoreau philosophizes on the mere fact that we need nothing but to live simply and in harmony with nature. In fact, this inspiration has mani-fested itself in some of the pages before you.

I sincerely hope that you enjoy this collection of items that had either come to us this season from a friendly e-mail, a chance encounter, or some artistic collaborating. Life is something to appreciate- often we are the only one not allowing ourselves this gift. I invite you to soak it up and enjoy.

xxoo Andrea

Editor’s Letter

A NEW HOME

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Introducing the REFIX Fixtape- A downloadable mix exclusive to each REFIX issue. Fixtape .01 is a fusion of underground masterpieces and nostalgic, refixed tracks of the past.

Click f

or

your F

IXE x c l u s i v e F r e e D o w n l o a d

FIXTAPE .01Produced live by 88:881. Shlohmo - “Empty Pools”2. Alex B - “Getting to Know You”3. Marcus Intalex - “Regrets”4. Sneaker Pimps - “6 Underground”5. The Streets - “Weak Become Heroes”6. Josh Abrahams - “Halcyon & On & On”7. Zero 7 - “Destiny (88:88 Refix)”8. Burial - “Stolen Dog”9. Zomby - “Alothea”10. Jacques Greene - “The Look (Koreless Remix)”11. Sbtrkt - “Hold On”12. Nocow - “Dispel the Wind”13. Synkro - “Look at Yourself ”14. Jamie xx- “Beat For”15. Dark Sky - “Be Myself ”16. Submerse - “Hold it Down”17. Tim Hecker - “Chimeras”18. Phaeleh - “Afterglow (feat. Soundmouse)”

For more info on 88:88 - www.checkoutthewebsite.com

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Originated in Lithuania in 2008 by Justus Janauskas and Milda Mitkute, Friendly-Fashion is an online marketplace that provides an alternative to wasteful fashion consumption, by making clothing available for re-use through a network in which reselling, swapping or giving away clothes is possible.

With 200 thousand members in Europe alone -- including Lithuania, Germany, UK, Holland, Spain, Turkey, Czech Republic, Belarus, and Norway-- Friendly-Fashion is making its way to the US of A with its launch this year in San Francisco, California.

Photo: Friendly-Fashion event, Lithuania

Making Fashion Friendlier

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Opposite page: Friendly-Fashion event, Lithuania

Unlike other online clothing sources, this community-based project allows people to meet-up at local hot spots and make transactions on their own spare time eliminating the cost and carbon footprint associated with shipping. Members also have the opportunity to choose from a great variety of clothes, shoes and accessories making eco-friendly and fashionable outfits come together with the convenience of never even stepping foot in a store. Over 1 million items are already available to the European market alone. In addi-tion, using Friendly-Fashion gives the members the security of knowing where their items are coming from as well as are given feedback based on their experience with each trans-action.

Through engaging the community to “swap” or buy second-hand, Friendly-Fashion is ultimately helping reduce all of the resources involved in the production of new clothing by decreasing the demand for new clothing.

www.friendly-fashion.com

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Hair // Makeup: Adriana Lopez Art Direction: Andrea Krystine Model: Ari CooperWardrobe: Emily Factor // www.emilyfactor.comShoes: Green Bees // www.shopgreenbees.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOUIZA VICK

Words by Thos. S. Allen

Dress, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com & Shoes, Green Bees;www.shopgreenbees.com

My story is old, but it’s often told

Dress, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com

For it happens everyday-


As long as men and women love

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Some heart will have to pay.


Bodysuit & Velvet Blazer, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com

He thought in time he could forget the girl he’d left behind

Bodysuit & Velvet Blazer, Emily Factor; www.emilyfactor.com & Shoes, Green Bees;www.shopgreenbees.com

But still the memory of her face is always on his mind.

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Dressomorphisis

a project protect that would enable consuma-holic fashionistas everywhere to take another

glance at what’s already in their closet-- Dressomorphosis™.

The concept of Dressomorphosis™ is derived from ‘metamorphosis’, which means a profound

change in form from one stage to another. Dressomorphosis™ is literally the metemorphisis of

your old unwanted clothes into “new attire that’s more trendy and fashionable”. Rana’s project

contributes to eco-fashion in that it includes the production of new styles that are sustainable by

reprocessing existing materials thus reconstituting ones wardrobe. In addition, a portion of the

proceeds from this eco-fashion project will be contributed to multiple sclerosis research through

a donation to the National Multiple Sclerosis Society (NMSS).

Dressomorphosis™ re-creation is available at www.AnarCoutureFashion.etsy.com

San Diego fashion designer, Rana Ghezelayagh,

sees fashion as body language- a tool of

communication and expression. Along with

this expression comes consideration for your

body and the earth. After showing at both

Seattle and portland Fashion weeks with

the success of her Anar Couture “Chic with

Silk” accessories collection, Rana thought up

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M I C H E L L E L O W E - H O L D E R

© MLH AW11

article: Camilla D Lorentzen

Michelle Lowe-Holder started her career in fashion design some 10 years ago. She

began her studies at Pratt Institute and completed her MA at Central St. Martins

where, upon graduating, she started her own label. “It was not hard to break into

fashion as I have never worked in any other field - but yes it takes time, luck, and

tenacity to be in fashion - a good measure of humour and seriously thick skin also

helps!”

Struggling to find her spot in the world of ready-to-wear, a couple of seasons ago,

she decided to rethink her collection. She started looking into details, hand crafting

and pleating while only integrating end-of-line materials as well as cut off materials

from her previous collections. Her AW11 'Flock & Fold' is a pure accessories range

ethically produced and sampled in the UK. The bases are hand cut and then

crocheted or interlaced with the off-cuts.

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The AW11 ‘Flock and Fold’ collection consists of “flocking engulfing and colouring geometric shapes and hand-crafted folding”. Flocking is the process of depositing many small fibre particles onto a surface. This is usually done by the application of a high-voltage electric field. The majority of flocking done worldwide uses finely cut natural or synthetic fibres. A flocked finish imparts a decorative characteristic to the surface, and has a soft velvety feel.

To represent her collection, Michelle Lowe-Holder explored alternative beauty: “My photographer Polly Penrose and I looked at beauty taboos - age / youth and size. For SS11 we looked at body shape tension and distortion and the question of beautiful or ugly. For the AW11 photo-shoot, beauty perception is once more questioned with Theresa (the model) herself - her rawness with no hair and no makeup is very anti fashion and slightly uncomfortable - she is almost too naked. The other idea of her being covered with colour, as one would normally do on the face, plus the accesso-ries looking slightly robotic and distorted, is also on the edge of beauty versus ‘off ’ and that aesthetic line is quite interesting.”

www.lowe-holder.com

© MLH AW11

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© Photo AVA Catherside SS12

AVA Catherside is a new London

based label by Veronica Todisco

and Anna Gloria Flores. Todisco

who studied Modern Literature in

Milan, and Flores who studied at

the IED in Milan met in London

and started the label in January

2011. All the materials the girls

work with are certified to be 100%

carbon neutral and environmen-

tally friendly. The garments show

off minimalism to its purest form;

stripped of details and finishings,

and the aesthetic is sharp and

geometrical with a monochrome

palette.



For their capsule collection called 'A3', they purely used a material

called Alcantara. Alcantara is the tradename given to a composite

material used to cover surfaces, and was developed in the early 1970s

by Miyoshi Okamoto. It is composed of about 68% polyester and 32%

polyurethane giving increased durability. It feels very similar to suede,

and is virtually identical on both sides, making it a reversible fabric.


"Our garments come to life like geometric works on bare skin. We let the materials inspire us, and the way the materials interact with the body shape. It all comes from there: the choice of the fabrics is a fundamental part of our research.”

AVA Catherside can be bought online at www.farfetch.com and from various shops across

Europe including Wok in Milan and Hunting and Gathering in Brussels.

© Photos AVA Catherside SS12

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Mr Wingate is a print designer based

in East-London. After graduating

with a BA in Textiles from Norwich

School of Art in 2005, he moved to

London where he started off by sell-

ing his printed t-shirts and bags in

Brick Lane. His signature print is

based on architecture and pubs. His

'East End Pub Crawl' is a series of

four cushions, each with a different

motif of a pub. Wingate has also put

his name to aprons, gift tags, napkins

and wallpaper. All with his signature

nouveau retro architectural images.

MR

Mr Wingate's designs can be found for sale in Selfridges and online at www.mrwingate.bigcartel.com

wingate

"I am using a print process to incorporate a greater sense of water consumption, as well as I am designing prints that use fewer colours and that share elements of other prints, reducing the use of water in the process. I am also concentrating more on producing products that have a longer lifespan with the consumer, products that someone will cherish for years rather than throw away after a few months".


Cut By WesleyLos Angeles designer Wesley Stiller cuts ties. This instinctual technique began with a hand-me-down tie from his grandfather. To the horror of tailors every-where, Wesley converted his grandfather’s tie into a skinny tie by snipping it down to size with scissors. With the realization that this just might have been the incorrect way to alter a tie, he was not dissuaded by the pride and joy he had just shredded up- he began to stitch. He chose bright, opposing colors in bold stitches to create a strong contrast that not only fixed the tie, it made it look …awesome! What seemed to be a mistake at the time was instead the beginning of Wesley’s fresh cut, eco-friendly neckwear.

All Cut by Wesley ties are hand sewn and one-of-a-kind originals so you know it’s good. The ties are all vintage- some dating back to the 1930’s. They also come in quirky names like “it svelte good“ and “the boo ya ka sha...ka sha”.

www.cutbywesley.com

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photo: Rapanui Tri Blend Cardigan

Rob and Martin Drake-Knight design casual wear from sustainable materials. What’s more is that they use ethically accredited factories powered by wind and solar energy for the production of their fashionable clothing.

While Rapanui’s supply chain -as well as their tex-tiles- are ethical, what really makes them stand out from other organic designers is the traceability of their products. “Using our trace mapping tool… you can find out exactly where our products come from, how and where they are made: From the seed being sown, picked, spun, sewn and transported.”

In addition to these contributions to eco fashion, Rapanui has also recently developed an industry-changing ecolabelling system. This system summarizes detailed and often confusing information on clothes packaging and “makes it easy for consumers to shop quickly with a conscience”.

Rapanui:revolutionizing the industry

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In order to help consumers make more ethical shopping decisions, Rapanui’s solution is an A-G rating system that informs the consumer about the ethical background of each product. Products can range from being A (organic, ethical, and sustainable), to D (not bad, not good either), to G (not ethical, organic, or sustainable).

Rob and Martin fully developed the EcoLabelling system and petitioned to enforce it in 2008. Since then, they have gained recognition through press and ceremonies. Variations of their ecolabelling system have also been adopted by major brands in the UK.

For more information on Rapanui or to help them with their ecolabelling petition, visit www.rapanuiclothing.com

“Some clothes might have an organic, or eco friendly logo on them, but it’s hard to tell, when you look at all the different labels (and the fine print) what’s really going on. So at Rapanui, we’ve come up with a solution. -Martin Drake-Knight, Co-founder

photo: Rapanui Infinity Bird Top

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Hair // Makeup: Charlyn Sanchez Art Direction: Andrea Krystine

Model: Greta AgoWardrobe: Hunt & Gather //

www.huntandgathershop.com

As if you could kill time

without injuring eternity.

Stephanie Kaitlyn Photography

Vintage blouse, bell-bottom jeans, and multi-colored crochet belt, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Pearl Earrings , Noelia Parish

With the words of

Henry David Thoreau

As you simplify

your life, the laws

of the universe will be simpler; solitude will not

be solitude, poverty

will not be poverty, nor

weakness weakness.

Vintage tank, belt, and pants, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Black leather with rattlesnake vertibrea, Found Pieces

Great men, unknown to their generation,

have their fame among the great who have preceded them,

and all true worldly fame subsides from their high estimate

beyond the stars.

Vintage belt, re-worked tank and shorts, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Necklace, Doan

Great men, unknown to their generation,

have their fame among the great who have preceded them,

and all true worldly fame subsides from their high estimate

beyond the stars.

Vintage tank, belt, and pants, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Black leather with rattlesnake vertibrea, Found Pieces

Most of the luxuries and many of the so-called comforts of life are not only not indispensable, but positive hindrances to the elevation of mankind.

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The light which puts out

our eyes is darkness to us. Only

that day dawns to which we are

awake. There is more day to dawn.

The sun is but a morning star.

Vintage dress and boots, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Ear Lace, Sirena St. James

Vintage dress, Hunt & Gather www.huntandgathershop.com Red feather earrings, Gilded Lily

As a single footstep will not make a path on the earth, so a single thought will not make a pathway in the mind. To make a deep physcal path, we walk again and again.

To make a deep mental path, we must think over and over the kind of thoughts we wish to dominate our lives.

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Photo by Lauren Emily Wydra

“Although it is difficult to wrap our minds around fixing all of the problems in the world, if everyone does the best we can with regard to the little decisions we make about what we buy and how we live our lives on an everyday basis we can change for the better.”

-Sonia Weksler

Hi Sonia! Tell us about your project In-SteadIn-Stead is a resource that reveals the best our culture has to offer in the form of sustainable indie fashion, farm-to-table and organic food, and local artisans and businesses that engage in eco-conscious and ethical practices. We believe that a healthy lifestyle should be more easily attainable and prevalent in our culture and that if we spread the word about better choices available we can stimulate a larger demand and shift the trend. All of the contribu-tors to In-Stead have donated their time to this project because taking care of the Earth and making sure it can sustain future generations has become a necessity. The members of the community are the producers, distributors, exhibitors, and consumers of the In-Stead ideals; the movement’s growth is reliant on the community’s growth and vis versa.

What inspired you to start In-Stead and how did it originate?In-Stead exists because my friends and I were having such a great conversation about proper food to eat and things to do (instead of what the corporate, commercialized world offers) and decided to extend the dialogue. I was inspired to start In-Stead because I wanted to share information that would enable people to make healthier decisions for themselves and our world, and to help foster an understanding that the more minor changes are made by individuals the more collectively impactful it is. I was also inspired by creative people around me who are supporting themselves doing what they love in a way that is in harmony with the well being of the planet and their local community. Since most of the media that is reaching people is intended to drive consumerism with no regard for how it may negatively impact everything, I thought that creating some positive messages to counter those tendencies would benefit everyone.

Sonia Weksler is a woman determined to make a viable change; a woman with hope in humanity who has made it her duty to research and share eco-friendly alternatives that can be used INSTEAD of the default options mainstream culture offers. Her medium- documentary films that feature creative, contributing citizens behind sustainable endeavors.

An interview with IN-STEAD founder, Sonia Weksler

Hi Sonia.

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How has this project affected your lifestyle?Working on In-Stead has caused me to take a closer look at my everyday choices to make sure I am being the change I’d like to see in the world. Whether I’m composting food waste or making sure my family’s retail store has eco-friendly hand soap and recycled paper towels (not to men-tion products that are sustainable and sourced locally when possible), this project has impressed upon me the importance of leading by example. Also, interviewing subjects for In-Stead’s piece on sustainable indie fashion has influenced me to shed certain bad habits and replace them with better ones. For example, rather than going shopping for a new outfit when I have somewhere to go, I often turn to my own closet to combine different pieces I already own. It is so much fun, I have stepped up my style, and the process stimulates creativity in a part of my brain that was previously dormant. If I do buy clothing or accessories it is from local vendors, thrift stores, and artists who create and sell eco-savvy, upcycled fashion instead of shopping malls that are loaded with mass-produced garments made without environmental or social consideration.

What are some of the things that assist you in maintaining this lifestyle?I really believe in choosing organic renditions of any products I buy to avoid pesticides, fertiliz-ers, and chemicals that are harmful to me and the ecosystem. The farmer’s market is where I shop for meat, poultry, and produce because it is fresher, in season, and supports my local economy and ecology. If I am in a situation where I don’t have access to organic meat and dairy I choose vegan selections, which rarely happens because of all of the delicious farm-to-table fare available in San Diego. I also use really clean products on my body because the skin is our largest organ and absorbs toxins so easily. Leveraging the magic of nature through home-made blends and es-sential oils has lots of great health benefits and since I started using them I am no longer able to tolerate commercial versions with funny chemicals and artificial fragrances. Needless to say, natu-ral laundry detergents and household products are a must. Since physical activity is essential to a balanced life, I take advantage of every opportunity to be active. For me, yoga is the perfect way to nourish my body, mind, and spirit. I also take every opportunity to sit still while breathing because I’ve found that quieting the mind is a useful exercise. Since I stay in tune with good food and a heathy lifestyle, I don’t get sick often, but when I do need medical attention I go to a Chi-nese herbalist and acupuncturist and stay away from antibiotics that destroy good bacteria in the body and medicines that mask symptoms and cause terrible side effects.

Tell us about your documentaries and the direction you are looking to take In-Stead In-Stead will bring the community together at events and online to premier documentary film vi-gnettes and support the featured artists/businesses/causes. Our website will include a video blog, Twitter and Facebook feeds, and an index for businesses and organizations that are in accordance with In-Stead’s values. I would love to see this model for highlighting environmentally

and socially conscious endeavors in the community through video and social media eventually expand to other cities. For our documentary film on sustainable indie fashion, we have spotlighted designers who create and produce their clothing locally and from wasted or eco-conscious materials. We are also featuring consumers and businesses who support this movement so that our audience can see examples of what it looks like and how to identify it in the world. The vignette that follows fashion will be on organic, farm-to-table food and we will continue to rotate to different manifesta-tions of socially and environmentally conscious culture in our community.

How can others get involved?People can get involved by starting to think about the ingredients and the source of what they con-sume, and having good conversations on the topic. People can also get involved by contributing to the conversation in our online forum or submitting suggestions for people and/or companies to fea-ture in our film work, and can connect with us on facebook at www.facebook.com/IN.STEAD.org. Anyone who wants to be a part of the In-Stead team is welcome to volunteer and participate, and should get in touch with me directly at [email protected].

Photo by Lauren Emily Wydra

refixmag.com 61

The cold weather is on its

way and with it the promise

of a fun and festive Holiday

Season. I love the Holiday

season - it brightens up the

long winter months and it’s

a great excuse to glam up

in a dramatic frock and

glamorous edgy casuals in

gorgeous fabrics.

Regal jewel tones of am-

ethyst, emerald and moody

blues are hot for winter their

deep gem shades are exotic,

mesmerising and so

impactful.

Your Holiday Style Guideby

Ruby red dresses are a holiday fashion

favourite because red looks great on almost

everyone. Words of caution though, don’t be tempted to go

head-to-toe red. Metallic or black shoes and accessories work

well with a red dress and glitter heels are everywhere right

now so have your own Cinderella moment!

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Black chiffon and lace work

perfectly for the holiday

season because it’s chic and

sexy at the same time, and

this season there is a certain

dark mischief in the air with

the hot fetish trend that set

the catwalks alight! Use it

to your advantage to show

off peek-a-boo areas (a bit of

cleavage, the arm) without

going too bare. There’s no need

to bare all, nude camisoles

and slips all keep you covered

while the chiffon itself stays

really suggestive - a game of

now-you-see-it, now-you-don’t

peek-a-boo.But fear

not- Black

is always in

style!

The little black dress really will take you to any event. Look for winter fabrics like velvet or wool; seasonless picks in crepe or jersey are a smart buy if you want to get more use out of it or tantalise in black lace, keyhole necklines and sheer inserts! Add a slightly casual touch by throwing a sexy blazer or fab biker jacket over a party frock, very this season!

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Remember sexy is all about surprises, so a deceptively simple piece

from the front can be a showstopper from the back. Open backs,

lace-up backs, great detail all make for dramatic effects and a

great pair of heels make any outfit really special.

A strict, structured look with heels is always

hard to carry off if you want to let your hair

down so go for a statement dress that is loosely

fitted and allows for a bit of movement - if

you’re anything like me, you will have had two

helpings of Christmas pudding and eaten all

the chocolates from the tree, so an easy-to-wear

tunic dress will camouflage a tummy. Wear

with opaque black tights and killer heels.

For a night on the town:

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Cashmere is the real scene-stealer. Touchable fabrics

not only invite another’s touch, they have the added

bonus of feeling great against your skin so you feel

pampered and sexy but comfortable at the same time

a real blessing for that ‘I just threw it on’ style!

Colour wise the darker autumn palette is brightened up with

splashes of raspberry and other berry shades as well as pinks,

purples and blues and cashmere works so well with your basics

and more classic trousers.

Oh and don’t forget! Accessories such as jewellery, scarves and

bags are a great way to update your wardrobes without

breaking the bank.

And that’s Christmas sorted.!

mygreenlipstick.com

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REFIX Vol. 2