REBUILDING THE IGNITION SWITCH ON A VN750

REASON:

My 1991 Vn750 developed a "dead spot" in the ignition switchwhich would cause the dash lights to flicker or go out completely.For two years I lived with this problem and temporarily solvedit each time it would occur by slightly turning the key towardsthe off position. It worsened to the point where the defective switchwould cause the bike to begin stalling - something had to be done. Anew switch is about 70 bucks, plus I didn't want to have todeal with having to re-key my bike.

TOOLS REQ'D:

10mm socket/drive or nut driver13mm wrench12mm wrench#2 phillips screwdrivermedium sized jewelers scredriver6mm Hex driver/hex key/allen wrenchcontact cleanersmall needle nosed pliers

PROCEDURE:

1. Remove the windshield (if applicable).

2. Remove the headlight.

2a. Remove the 2 phillips head screws that hold the front portionof the headlight to the bucket - the screws are located about 4 o'clockand 8 o'clock (be sure not to mess with the adjusting screw located around 8:30).

2b. Remove the headlight lens and trim ring from the bucket - pullthe bottom free which should allow you to "un-clip" the top portion.Disconnect the three prong connector from the lightbulb and placethe lens assembly somewhere safe.

3b. Using the 12mm wrench on the nuts on the insides of the bucket,remove the 10mm hex headed bots that secure the bucket to the ears.Carefully allow the bucket to hang down from the wires.

3. Remove the instrument cluster/gages.

3a. Remove the 2 bolts (1 on either side) of the "lights cluster".

3b. carefully remove the gauges and cluster(allow to dangle from the wires).

3c. Remove the black rubber boot from around the outside of theignition switch post.

4. Remove the switch assembly - there are two socket

head cap screws under the top fork clamp - after removing thebolts you should be able to "fanagle" the switch out of the forkclamp.

4a. ***UPDATE***It has been brought to my attention that if the handlebars are turned to the full left position, it is much easier to remove the switch without "fanagling".

5. Remove the two brass colored phillips screws from the plasticbody of the switch. Separate the electric switch portion fromthe mechanical portion.

6. Carefully snap the plastic cover off the back of the switch - check each of the solders carefully to make sure none have broken free.

7. While holding the switch "circuit board side up" carefully pry theplasic body away from the circuit board where the little tang locks thetwo pieces together - CAREFUL! - AS YOU SEPARATE THE TWO PIECES BECERTAIN NOT TO TURN OVER THE SWITCH PORTION, THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALLPIECES THAT COULD FALL OUT!!!

8. Take the switch portion (should now be free from the bike) to asuitable location to work on it (ie. workbench).

9. One at a time, remove the contacts from the switch and slightlystretch the compression spring open a little bit.

10. Use contact cleaner to clean each of the contact points as wellas the contact paths (on the circuit board).

REASSEMBLY:

1. Do everything you just did in the reverse order.

Hope this helps someone - kent4chaos