1    

 

2    

Table  of  Contents  

 

Introduction  .................................................................................................................................................  5  

Chapter  1  .....................................................................................................................................................  7  

Why  Raise  Fish?  .......................................................................................................................................  7  

The  Benefits  of  Eating  Fish  ...................................................................................................................  7  

Raise  Them  Your  Own  Way  .................................................................................................................  8  

Chapter  2  ...................................................................................................................................................  10  

Choosing  the  Right  Fish  Species  ............................................................................................................  10  

The  Question  of  Geography  and  Climate  ..........................................................................................  10  

Important  Qualities  in  Fish  ................................................................................................................  11  

An  Important  Note  ............................................................................................................................  13  

Fish  Species  ........................................................................................................................................  13  

Fish  to  Avoid  Raising  ..........................................................................................................................  16  

Chapter  3  ...................................................................................................................................................  17  

Habitat  Options  .....................................................................................................................................  17  

Cage  Culture  ......................................................................................................................................  17  

Considerations  before  Choosing  a  Setup  ...........................................................................................  18  

The  Growing  Season  ..........................................................................................................................  19  

Flow-­‐Through  Setups  .........................................................................................................................  19  

Gate  Culture  ......................................................................................................................................  21  

Farm  Pond  .........................................................................................................................................  22  

Backyard  Ponds  ..................................................................................................................................  24  

Greenhouse  System  ...........................................................................................................................  26  

Home  Recirculating  Systems  .............................................................................................................  28  

Barrel  Systems  ...................................................................................................................................  29  

Aquaponics  Systems  ..........................................................................................................................  30  

Chapter  4  ...................................................................................................................................................  33  

Threats  to  Your  Fish  ...............................................................................................................................  33  

Problems  with  Electricity  ...................................................................................................................  33  

Predators  ...........................................................................................................................................  33  

Environmental  Considerations  ..........................................................................................................  34  

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Natural  Threats  ..................................................................................................................................  35  

Chapter  5  ...................................................................................................................................................  37  

Care  and  Feeding  ...................................................................................................................................  37  

Caring  for  Fry  .....................................................................................................................................  37  

Beneficial  and  Harmful  Species  for  Pond  Systems  .............................................................................  38  

Pond  Care  ..........................................................................................................................................  39  

Feeding  –  Commercial  Food  or  Natural  Sources?  ..............................................................................  41  

A  Look  at  the  Natural  Food  System  ...................................................................................................  42  

Chapter  6  ...................................................................................................................................................  44  

Harvesting  and  Preservation  .................................................................................................................  44  

Harvesting  Your  Fish  ..........................................................................................................................  44  

Preserving  Your  Harvest  ....................................................................................................................  46  

Preservation  Techniques  ...................................................................................................................  49  

Conclusion  .................................................................................................................................................  51  

Works  Cited  ...............................................................................................................................................  52  

 

 

 

                                             

4    

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5    

Introduction  

 

Fish – it’s supposed to be one of the healthiest things for you to eat, packed with

protein, vitamins and nutrients. Well, at least once upon a time. Today, fish is more

problematic.

In fact, most health experts recommend eating it no more than three times per week.

Children and pregnant women are urged to eat it even less frequently. Why is that?

Mercury content is the primary cause for alarm. This heavy metal causes serious

problems in the human body, and can lead to symptoms that include:

• Loss of hair

• Loss of teeth

• Loss of finger and toenails

• Profuse sweating

• High blood pressure

• Rapid heartbeat

• Increased salivation

• Kidney dysfunction

• Memory impairment

There are other problems with conventionally farmed and even wild-caught fish beyond

mercury. Fish-specific diseases are spreading around the world thanks to the

importation of nonnative species. Parasites are spreading. Fish-targeting bacteria are

becoming resistant to antibiotics.

Beyond that, you have other issues – fish that now contains antibiotics and hormones.

Fish fed a diet composed of bone meal and chemicals. It’s a frightening thing.

You can take back your fish, though. Not only can you make it safe for your family to

enjoy fish, but you can add that to your other off-grid living options. A home fish farm

can be of any scale, from small to massive, and it will provide you with all the fresh,

delicious fish you want. You can eat it fresh, freeze it, or preserve it against future need.

6    

Fish farming isn’t difficult. In fact, you might need very little in the way of equipment

beyond what you already have if there’s a good water source on your property or you

feel like building your own pond.

Fish farming is holistic, natural and is one of the oldest forms of animal husbandry. It’s a

logical inclusion for your list of off-grid living skills, even if you only want to limit your

dependency on Big Ag. This book will tell you what you need to know to get started.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Chapter  1  

Why  Raise  Fish?  

 

Whether you intend to go completely

off grid, or you’re looking for a way to

become less dependent on the

modern food supply chain and Big

Ag, there are plenty of options open

to you.

Growing your own vegetables and

fruit is not only possible, but

surprisingly easy. You can also raise

your own chickens, goats, pigs and other livestock. You can hunt, trap and fish off the

land. With all those options, why consider raising fish on your own? Actually, there are

numerous reasons to start your own fish farm.

 

The  Benefits  of  Eating  Fish  

When it comes to the food you put in your body, the quality matters. A calorie is not a

calorie is not a calorie – that is, not all calories are equal. The quality of the food has a

greater impact on your survival than the number of calories per serving. When it comes

to fish, you’ll find that (with the right species or mix of species), you get high-quality food

that not only helps you survive, but helps you thrive. Fish is:

• Naturally low in bad fat (Omega-6 fatty acids)

• Naturally high in protein

• Naturally high in Omega-3 fatty acids

• Omega-3 fatty acids can:

o Reduce inflammation in the body, including the cardiovascular system

o Alleviate the symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis

8    

o Help combat mental/cognitive decline

o Alleviate depression

o Regulate blood clotting and blood vessel constriction

o Support prenatal and postnatal nutrition

 

Raise  Them  Your  Own  Way  

If you think that raising fish on your own means you must have enough space for a

large-scale fish farm, you might need to take another look at your options. The truth is

that raising fish for food in an off-grid living situation is not only simpler than you think,

it’s actually far easier. It can even be done in a survivalist situation, and there are new

mobile fish farming techniques that let you load your fish farm up and hit the road.

You can choose to raise your fish:

• In an artificial pond

• In several smaller ponds

• In an aquaponcis system tied to your garden for better nutrients and growth (for

both plants and fish)

• In plastic drums, barrels or large buckets for portability and a smaller scale

There are plenty of other options out there, too.

Fish farming is an ancient art, practiced by humans for thousands of years. It dates all

the way back to the dawn of agriculture, and even before. Hunter-gatherers might not

have created artificial ponds by digging in their backyards, but there is evidence that

they created artificial dams in streams to make catching fish easier.

Raising your own fish offers a number of benefits that speak to the spirit of living free,

off the grid, but it can also be an important survival strategy when things go south in

terms of societal stability or government collapse.

It’s also a part of the permaculture movement that focuses on being good stewards of

the land and maximizing the use of our available resources, while minimizing our impact

on the wider world around us.

9    

In this book, we’ll take a look at the types of fish you can raise (and which are the better

choices), the types of systems you can build to raise those fish, and a great deal more.

10    

Chapter  2

Choosing  the  Right  Fish  Species  

Raising your own fish gives you and your

family access to a rich source of protein,

as well as important nutrients like Omega-

3 fatty acids. If you’re looking for a way to

supplement your diet, offset your financial

situation or go completely off the grid,

you’ll find that raising fish is an important

element of the overall plan. However, not

all fish species are created equal.

Some thrive in these environments, while others will fail. Some offer excellent nutrition,

while others are dubious. You must know the right species for your needs, as well as

how the various species that can be farmed stack up against one another. One fish is

not necessarily as good as another. In this chapter, we’ll explore the various fish

species available to you and what each brings to the table.

 

The  Question  of  Geography  and  Climate  

If you’re raising fish, chances are good that you’ll be doing so outdoors. Most of us lack

the space for an indoor fish farm (and wouldn’t want one indoors even if we had the

space).

What this means is that the species you can choose will be limited by your geography

and climate. While you can raise pretty much any type of fish in an indoor, climate

controlled environment, that’s not true for outdoors. There are numerous factors that will

affect the health, growth, reproduction and even size of your fish, including:

• Average high temperature during the summer

• Average low temperature during the winter

11    

• Average daily temperature during various times of year

• Average number of sunny days

• Average rainfall for your area (rainfall has an enormous impact on water quality

and, thus, the health of your fish)

As a general rule of thumb, if you live in northern latitudes, you’ll need fish that are

capable of thriving in colder temperatures. In southern climes, you’ll need heat tolerant

fish. If you’re somewhere between those two extremes, chances are good you can

choose from both hot and cold tolerant fish, although you’ll need to consider species-

specific requirements.

You’ll also want to consider your geographic location within broader climate areas. For

instance, while someone living in the Piedmont region of Georgia might see

summertime temps in the upper 90s or low 100s, someone living in the same relative

area, but at a higher elevation in the Smoky Mountains might see average highs of just

80 degrees, but lows during the winter might plunge very low.

Of course, the environment in which you choose to raise your fish will also have a

dramatic impact. For example, barrel farms will be far more susceptible to temperature

fluctuations than an in-ground pond would, even in the same location.

Finally, you’ll need to consider why you’re raising fish in the first place. For most home

fish farms, the decision to farm is to supply high quality, protein-rich food for the family.

However, that’s only one reason – there are many others.

Many people choose to start a fish farm as part of an aquaponics system, and the fish

provide nutrients to the plants, which filter the water for the fish. These fish might never

grace a dinner plate. If you don’t intend to eat the fish you raise, you have many

different options in terms of viable fish species.

 

Important  Qualities  in  Fish  

It’s vital to note that there’s no such thing as the “perfect” fish species for farming. They

all have variables that will complicate the situation. Whether you choose one of the fish

12    

species listed later in this chapter, or decide you want to choose your own (or you

decide to catch fish from a local wild population), you’ll need to know a few of the

economic and biological attributes that go into making an ideal choice. These include

the following:

• Capable of reproduction in a captive environment (not all fish will reproduce in

captivity)

• Have good eating qualities beyond inherent nutrition (boniness, spines, difficulty

of cleaning, etc.)

• Be adaptable to your farming system (not all fish are good choices for all farming

system types)

• Be adaptable in a polyculture environment (raising more than one type of fish in

the same system)

• Be easy to process (this is a relative one, but you should still consider the

amount of time and effort required to process your fish for eating or storage)

• Have a good shelf life (chances are you’ll want to freeze or dry your fish at some

point – make sure you choose a species with a good shelf life)

• Low mortality rates (you want a fish population that will stand the test of time)

• Not cannibalistic (building your own fish farm does you little good if they eat one

another)

13    

An  Important  Note  

In this chapter, we discuss a range of fish species, most of which are edible.

Understand that in a small, home farm situation, it’s really up to you what fish you want

to raise. We’ve noted several that make poor choices for a variety of reasons, but they

might be a good option for your particular situation.

Feel free to experiment. Research the various species that might survive in your

climate, and choose what works best for your needs. There are few “hard and fast” rules

in home fish farming. Part of the beauty of a home fish farm is the freedom to raise what

you want and so long as you’re complying with your state’s laws regarding invasive

species introduced into the native waterways, it’s really your call. With that being said,

there are some species that stand out from the pack.

Fish  Species  

While there’s a wide range of fish species

that might survive in a home fish farm, they’re

not all created equal. Some require a certain

water temperature, others are less nutritious.

In this section, we’ll discuss several of the

best options, as well as some that should be

avoided.

Blue  Tilapia  

We’ll cover tilapia on its own because it’s perhaps the most heavily farmed fish in North

America, and it’s most likely the first fish of choice for your farm. Blue tilapia are smaller

than rainbow trout or channel catfish (both of which are covered below and constitute

the remaining two of the top three most popular fish to farm).

Tilapia also produce high quality flesh, but they need warmer temperatures than either

catfish or trout (between 60 and 90-degrees F). You’ll also find that tilapia can handle

14    

heavy population densities (more fish in less space) than catfish, and comparable to

trout.

 

Freshwater  Shrimp  

Ok, so shrimp (or prawns if you prefer) aren’t actually fish, but they’re a very popular

option for home farming. Shrimp can be raised as food for you and your family, or as

food for other fish (helping provide you with a more sustainable fish farm).

However, raising shrimp is very different from farming fish, and can require a great deal

more work depending on the size of your farm and how many shrimp you want to raise.

For the best production, shrimp should be raised in a container/pond with algae and

insect larva buildup (a food source for the shrimp).

 

Coldwater  Fish  

When it comes to handling low temperatures, few fish species can trump trout. You’ll

find that both rainbow and brook trout can be raised at home. Both have high quality

flesh, and they can tolerate a very wide range of temperatures, particularly toward the

lower end of the thermometer. They can also grow to a good size, helping you maximize

the amount of food you get from each fish.

However, remember that trout are active, energetic fish, which can cause problems,

particularly in smaller fish farms. Of the two, rainbow trout are the more commonly

farmed. Brown trout are not recommended because they have lower quality flesh than

either rainbow or brook varieties (they can be eaten, though). They’re also problematic

because of cannibalistic and territorial tendencies.

 

15    

Warmwater  Fish  

There’s a host of warmwater species from which to choose, but there are more bad

choices than good. Of them all, the channel catfish is the most popular and the easiest

to raise. They’re also the most tolerant of temperature fluctuations (either hot or cold).

Channel cats can attain good size, and their flesh is high quality, although it has a

fishier flavor than trout. Other catfish species are not recommended, as they are harder

to raise and less fit to eat. Another warmwater fish to consider is the bluegill (bluegill

sunfish). Fair quality for eating, they’re easy to raise. Striped bass are also good options

with fair quality flesh.

 

Coolwater  

Between cold and warm, you’ll find coolwater fish. Some of these are good for eating,

while others are good for stocking. They’re pretty mutually exclusive, though. For

instance, smallmouth bass make for pretty slim pickings on the dinner table, but they

can serve other purposes in your farm and are easy to stock. Walleye, on the other

hand, are good for eating, but more difficult to stock. Yellow perch fall under the same

heading as walleye (good eating/difficult stocking), and pike should be avoided.

 

Baitfish  

If you need fish for bait (whether for supplementing

the diet of your other farmed fish, or for actual use as

bait in catching fish for food or stocking your farm,

you’ll find a few choices available. Flathead minnows

are an excellent choice, and golden shiners are also good. Goldfish are poorer choices

because they’re harder to raise in farms, but they do work well as baitfish depending on

what species you’re after.

Depending on where you live, you may have access to a much wider range of species.

For instance, arctic char might make a good choice for those living in Wisconsin, but the

16    

fish wouldn’t survive long in Mississippi. Lake smelt, lake herring and chubs are also

common northern fish.

Fish  to  Avoid  Raising  

While the fish mentioned above are good for eating and therefore make good choices

for a home fish farm, there are some that should be avoided. Whether they’re not good

for eating (or not that great), they’re cannibalistic, they’re territorial, or they have

significant needs that are difficult for a home fish farmer to meet, these species are

usually poor choices:

• Brown trout

• Largemouth bass

• Smallmouth bass

• Pike

• Redear sunfish

• Catfish other than channel cats

• Crappie

• Bream

• Salmon

Some of the fish on the list above might raise eyebrows. After all, they’re edible, right?

They are, but they are often not worth the effort for small, home farm operations. Some

of them are also predatory fish that can wreak havoc on a small operation, not to

mention the discharge of waste that must be handled properly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

17    

Chapter  3  

Habitat  Options  

If you decide raising fish at home is right for

you, you’ll need to do several things. The first

thing is to decide on the type of fish you want to

raise, and how many you ultimately want to

keep on hand. This will have a direct impact on

several things, including the habitat you build.

With that being said, all fish species will need a

place to live. Thankfully, home fish farmers have several different options open to them,

ranging from the extremely small and basic to portable options to larger solutions for big

fish populations. We’ll run through those options in this chapter.

 

Cage  Culture  

If you have access to a pond or lake, you’re already a leg up on the rest of us. You have

the most important part of the equation handled already – an area filled with water.

Cages are the simplest and most affordable option of all, and they’re exactly what they

sound like.

You put a cage in the water, fill it with your stock, feed them and watch them grow. It

really is that simple. Of course, you’ll need to choose the right type of cage, and there’s

always cleaning to consider. Also, depending on the depth of the water and the size of

the cage, actually getting fish out might be somewhat problematic (although you can get

around this with an open-topped cage.

Fish cages tend to collect debris and algae thrives on the structure. You can add algae

eaters to the mix, or you can clean by hand. You’ll also need permission to put the cage

in the water if you don’t own the lake. If it’s owned by an individual, you might be able to

18    

work out a system of trades (space in the lake in exchange for fish). If it’s owned by the

county or the state, you’ll need to speak with a government official.

You can opt to make your own cage, or you can purchase a commercial one. Most

cages can be made at home for $100 or less, depending on your access to materials

and your level of handiness. All you really need is enough PVC pipe to create a cage

large enough to house your fish. Netting around the structure of the pipes will prevent

them from getting loose.

Floating cages can also be built, and are ideal for small, privately owned ponds.

Channel catfish are ideal for this type of situation, although tilapia and striped bass can

also be raised in cages relatively easily. If salmon are your preferred fish, caging works

with them as well.

Considerations  before  Choosing  a  Setup  

In the following sections, we discuss a wide range of setups for home fish farming.

However, your local laws and regulations might have far more to do with what you

ultimately choose than your personal preferences.

For instance, many states require that tilapia be raised in an enclosed space to prevent

their escape into the wild. That means you might be required to setup a

greenhouse/enclosed system rather than using any of the simpler and less costly

farming methods discussed here.

It’s vital that you check your local laws and regulations (including statewide laws) before

you choose a fish species. While tilapia are great for eating, and your region might have

ideal temperatures to raise them, local laws might make it too costly to farm this fish

species. You might do better with trout, catfish, or any one of a number of other fish

species.

You can find your local laws and regulations at your county agriculture extension. While

you’re at it, find out if there are any rules or regulations pertaining to the type of setup

19    

you can install at your home (this goes beyond whatever your HOA allows or disallows if

you’re living in a subdivision governed by such an association).

The  Growing  Season  

If you’re raising fish to eat, you’ll need to determine the length of your growing season.

This is particularly true for tilapia, which only grow when the weather is warm. While

some types of tilapia can survive in cooler weather, they will only grow when the

temperature is above 70 degrees.

That gives you a very clearly defined growing season (usually late spring through early

fall). However, this will vary depending on where you are. For instance, a home fish

farm in southern Florida might be able to raise fish all year long, while one in Maine

might have only a few months with temperatures in the appropriate range.

Know your growing season before choosing a farming method, and even before

choosing a fish species. If you only have three months in which temperatures are warm

enough for tilapia, it would make more sense to choose a hardier fish capable of thriving

in cool temperature (trout make an excellent choice, and they’re very good eating).

The impact this will have on your setup cannot be understated. In some situations, you

might find that you have no recourse but to build a completely enclosed fish farm where

you have control over the temperature and other factors. In others, you might discover

that Mother Nature is kind enough that you can raise your fish outdoors.

 

Flow-­‐Through  Setups  

A flow-through system is one of the simplest to set up, next to floating cages, of course.

In this situation, you’ll be diverting part of a nearby stream, creek or spring and using

the water to raise your fish in what are called “races”. It’s a little labor intensive to start,

but it’s very inexpensive.

To get started, you’ll need a nearby source of flowing fresh water. A creek, stream or

even a small river can work. A spring can also supply you with enough water for the

20    

task. Next, you’ll need to trench a lead

area off the flowing body of water that

will lead to your raceways. It should

be large enough to supply enough

water that your fish are able to stay

safely below the surface in the races.

This will obviously depend on the

species of fish in question, as their

ultimate size will dictate just how much water is needed to cover them safely and

prevent damage from sunlight. However, fish generally need less water than you might

think – picture a rainbow trout in its native habitat. Most mountain streams are only six

inches deep, with some deeper areas.

One drawback to the flow-through setup is that you’ll need to get approval for the

project from your local government if you’re tapping into a stream, creek or river that

flows through your property and then out the other side. This is because you’ll be

diverting some of the water that others downstream might be relying on, and altering the

water levels in the area. If you’re using a spring on your own property that doesn’t flow

beyond the property line, you’re good.

There are several advantages to using a flow-through system over other options you

have available. These closely mirror the advantages of cage culturing, but go even

further. With the right raceways, you need only purchase the material needed to make

the races watertight.

Because you’re tapping into a source of cold, running water, you won’t need to invest in

aeration equipment, and you won’t need a source of electricity, either. If you’re

concerned about aeration, you can add stones or other obstacles to the water course so

that it’s self-aerating.

With that being said, you will need a few things, including a pH tester to make sure the

water in the races remains balanced. You’ll also need feed, and a way to clean the

races to remove potentially harmful mold, algae and bacteria (you don’t need to be

21    

finicky here, and some fish species actually thrive with algae as it adds to their food

source).

 

Gate  Culture  

If you’re lucky enough to have a stream, creek or a small river running through your

property and don’t want the effort involved with creating a system of raceways (or

you’ve been denied by the county because installing raceways would adversely impact

others in the area), you still have a low-cost option for raising fish.

Gate culture is a lot like cage culture, but instead of raising your fish in cages, you’ll be

raising them free (relatively) in running water. The main consideration here is the ability

to build gates across both ends of your breeding area – the creek, stream or river

should be narrow enough that you can span it with a gate that will prevent your fish

stock from migrating up or downstream.

Essentially, you only need a few components to make this system work. You’ll need

upper poles to secure a hanging net or wire fencing section. You’ll need a lower pole or

other means of securing the bottom end of the net/wire at the bottom of the waterway as

well. Some home fish farmers don’t use poles, but weigh the netting/wire down with

heavy rocks or bricks to keep it in place.

Obviously, this type of solution has some drawbacks. Despite its low cost and ease of

installation, it’s a higher maintenance method of home fish farming. That’s because

you’re essentially creating a somewhat permeable dam.

Anything that flows downstream will end up hung on your upper gate. That includes

things like sticks, leaves and debris, but it can also include trash and human refuse

generated somewhere upstream. You’ll need to pay close attention to the gates and

keep them clean and clear of debris. As debris builds up, it creates additional drag as

the water flows past. Eventually, it will cripple or destroy your gate and your hard work is

done.

22    

There are other considerations to make with a gated system. While you won’t have to

worry about aeration, you will need to worry about other environmental factors,

including:

• Anything dumped into the water upstream will eventually reach your fish,

including pollutants, poisons, toxins, farm runoff and more. This can be

dangerous to your fish, and even to you and your family if you’ll be eating the

fish.

• You’re giving up control over water levels and relying on nature (and those

upstream of you) to do their part to keep the system in shape. Adequate rainfall

will keep your fish farm going strong, but too much or too little can spell big

trouble. Obviously, drought conditions make this sort of farming impossible, but

flooding can be just as bad.

• Predators are also more likely if you’re raising your fish in a natural waterway.

Snakes, birds and other predators will have easier access to your fish, and they’ll

be delighted that you went to the trouble to essentially create a box lunch for

them (but they won’t say thanks).

 

Farm  Pond  

If you have access to a farm pond on

your property, it can easily be

transformed into a fishpond. In many

ways, this is the best option discussed

thus far, because it doesn’t rely on

flowing water that might contain

hidden dangers, and it doesn’t require

you to tap into the water system of the

larger area (and get county approval

23    

for your installation). However, there are some considerations to make before you start

stocking your pond.

Size: First, your pond must be large enough to support a healthy fish population, but still

serve as a farm pond. If you have other animals, they’ll be drinking water from the pond.

Your fish will be using it too. Too much use leads to low quality water, and it can even

poison animals if fish waste builds up too intensively. Larger ponds can also host a

thriving ecosystem that ensures you have little to no maintenance to worry about during

the year other than feeding your fish.

Depth: Many farm ponds are pretty shallow, just large enough to hold a decent amount

of drinking water for livestock during the warmer months of the year. During the winter,

the pond either freezes over, or it’s drained to prevent problems.

If you’re going to stock your pond with fish, make sure it’s deep enough that it can be

used year round without freezing solid (ice on the surface is fine – it’s the lower areas

that you need to worry about). Deeper ponds are also important for ensuring cool

temperatures for your fish during the summer heat.

Of course, there are a few drawbacks to having your own large fishpond. The most

obvious is that it’s hard to harvest fish in a big pond. You’ll have to actually catch them –

break out the rod and reel and spend the afternoon on the bank if you like. Alternatively,

you can use a net to catch your fish, but this has the potential to 1) harm your fish and

2) leave you with far more fish out of water than you wanted.

If you don’t have a large pond, you can build one on your own. It’s simplest if you can

hire a company to do it for you. There’s a lot of earth to be moved here, and you’ll need

an experienced operator to build the dam that will retain the water. Pond building is

easiest if you have a natural valley, or even an area with a couple of steep hills, but you

can build one pretty much anywhere you like. Flatter land just needs more digging.

Before you start construction of a pond on your property, check the local ordinances, as

some counties in the US require you to have a permit, and some areas don’t allow the

construction of private ponds at all. If you’re in a subdivision, you won’t be able to use a

large pond, but you do have other options available to you.

24    

Backyard  Ponds  

If you’re working with a limited amount of

land or you’re dealing with subdivision

bylaws that prevent you from having a

larger pond built, you can still raise fish in a

pond. You just need to adjust the scale.

There are a lot of benefits to having a small

backyard pond, although there are a few

cons to the situation as well.

With a smaller pond, you have the ability to easily integrate it into your backyard

ecosystem or even to create a tranquil outdoor area. A waterfall will add both visual and

auditory interest, while providing your fish with all the aeration they need.

You can install a patio nearby so you can enjoy sitting by the pond in the evenings.

Really, the sky’s the limit here. Because they’re small, backyard ponds are also easy to

decorate in terms of aquatic plants that will look beautiful and help clean the water at

the same time.

In terms of convenience, you’ll find that backyard ponds offer quite a deal. It’s easier to

harvest fish in a smaller pond. You really only need a hand net and a little patience. You

can also control the temperature of the water more easily, and are less reliant on nature

to do it for you.

In terms of drawbacks, there are only a few, but they can be significant. The most

important one is cost. Depending on what you want to do in terms of design, it might be

more expensive to create a backyard pond than a larger farm pond.

That’s because these installations are at least partially aesthetic, while farm ponds are

completely utilitarian. The more design work that goes into your pond, the higher the

price tag will climb. With that being said, you may have little or no choice if your local

HOA mandates what you can and can’t do on your own property.

Another drawback here is scale – backyard ponds are small. Therefore, they have a

limited capacity for fish. Depending on the species of fish you ultimately choose, you

25    

may only be able to have a few full-grown fish at a time. This will mean frequent

harvesting if your fish are breeding, in order to keep the numbers down and avoid the

serious threats that come along with overpopulation.

Backyard ponds have several cost factors that must be considered, including the

following:

• Size: Are you able to build a pond large enough to raise sufficient fish to make a

difference in your life? If you live on a small lot, this might not be possible.

• Protection: In northern areas of the country, as well as many in the central

section and some in the south, you’ll find that backyard ponds are simply too

small to avoid freezing solid unless you install a water heater (additional cost and

effort).

• Electricity: No matter what, you’ll need to have an aeration system for your pond,

which means having immediate access to electricity. That means additional costs

in the form of equipment (pump, cabling, air tubing, etc.), as well as an increase

in your monthly utility bill.

• Cost of Ornamentation: Some HOAs mandate that backyard ponds must conform

to a certain aesthetic. That can be expensive, as well as time-consuming.

• Water Supply: You’ll need to supply your pond with a constant stream of fresh

water. If you’re on city water, there may be chemicals and additives that cause

problems for your fish. You’ll need to invest in a good filtering system for the

inbound water flow.

• Filtering Dirty Water: Small ponds are just not able to support a full ecosystem to

clean the water. That means you’ll need to install an artificial one. These can get

expensive, and they’ll also draw power from the grid.

26    

With all that being said, if you don’t live in a neighborhood governed by an HOA,

chances are good that a medium-sized backyard pond can be a very good way to get

started raising fish at home.

Greenhouse  System  

This is one of the most expensive options out

there, but it may be the only one open to you

depending on the type of fish you’re raising,

your climate, your local laws and regulations,

and other factors. However, while it’s costly,

it’s also one of the best options as it provides

almost complete control over every facet of fish

farming, leaving very little to chance.

While most fish species can be farmed in a greenhouse setup, you’ll find that tilapia do

the best. This is because they’re hardier than many other species when it comes to

water quality and other issues that are common with greenhouse farms and tank

raising.

In even the most basic greenhouse system, you’ll need several components. These

include:

• The Greenhouse Itself: You don’t need to get too crazy with your greenhouse

construction. In many areas of the country, a simple gardening greenhouse with

plastic sheeting as the exterior material will be more than adequate.

However, in areas where the temperature plunges, you’ll want something more

akin to a barn with a solid roof and sides where the temperature can be more

easily maintained. Your greenhouse may be the single largest expense incurred

in this type of farming, depending on the type of filtration and pumping system

you choose.

27    

• Tanks: You’ll need at least one tank to raise fish. Carefully consider the size and

depth of the tank, and whether it will hold enough fish. Most operations need two

tanks, and if you’re breeding your own fish, you may need to separate the fry

from the adults to avoid them being eaten (if you’re raising fish with cannibalistic

tendencies).

• Lighting: You’ll need some sort of lighting system to mimic daylight, as well as to

provide light for you to see by. Fish don’t need a lot of light, but it will be

necessary.

• Filtration: If you’re raising fish in tanks, you’ll find that you have your hands full

with keeping the tanks and water clean. A good filtration system is one of the

most important considerations here, and can save you a lot of heartache.

• Pump: You’ll need at least one pump to move water through your filtering system

and back into the tank. Depending on your setup, you may need two or more

pumps. Most pumps are designed to plug into a wall outlet, but there are models

available that can clamp onto a car battery for use when the power goes out (an

important consideration or any prepper or survivalist, and a handy convenience

for any home fish farm).

• Platform: If your land isn’t flat, you’ll need to construct a level platform for your

greenhouse. You can level your tank without building an entire platform if you

prefer, but it’s vital that you have everything on a plane. Water seeks the lowest

level and even a relatively mild grade can cause problems with your tank, your

filtration system and other components.

• Heating and/or Cooling: Just because you’re locating your fish tanks inside an

enclosed area, that doesn’t mean that you’re completely independent of Mother

Nature’s vagaries. Depending on the species you’re raising, you may need to

heat or cool the water to ensure the right temperature for them to thrive. Not only

28    

will this require either building or buying more equipment, but it’s another draw on

the power grid.

As you can see, there’s a lot that goes into even a basic greenhouse fish farm

operation. However, once setup and running, and properly maintained, of course, you’ll

find that you can produce high quality fish in controlled conditions. It’s not right for

everyone, though, and if you’re preparing for a disaster in which electricity will be

unobtainable except through solar technology or you’re trying to limit your dependence

on the grid, this is not the right option for you.

 

Home  Recirculating  Systems  

One option that might not occur to many people interested in home fish farming is the

home recirculating system. Essentially, this relies on a manmade body of water and a

garden hose. In the simplest form, you would use an aboveground vinyl-lined pool in

your garage or basement. It can also be installed outdoors if you have an area where it

would be suitable. Interestingly, this type of installation is often able to get past HOA

regulations as long as the bylaw enforcers never get a good look inside the pool. Of

course, that will depend on the size and type of pool you’re able to purchase.

The cheapest option is about 12 feet in diameter and 3 feet tall – a kids’ wading pool,

essentially. Don’t go much smaller than that, or you run the risk of intensive needs.

Cleaning and maintenance become more difficult, and you’ll find that the high

population numbers can lead to stress and damage in your fish if you haven’t chosen a

species that can survive in these types of situations.

If left without aeration, a pool of this size could produce about 15 pounds of fish per

growing season. However, adding an aeration system, controlling the water temperature

at all times, and installing a good filtration system can allow the same amount of space

to produce 100 pounds of fish. Of course, as the population density increases, so do

your care and feeding needs, as well as the need to make sure the water is cared for

properly at all times.

29    

Larger populations also increase the amount of equipment you’ll need. A reliable

filtering system is costly, and it also draws on the power grid, increasing your cost and

also your dependence on the utility company.

 

Barrel  Systems  

If you’re tight on space, but want to raise your own fish, there’s an option for you: barrel

farming. It’s exactly what it sounds like. This is an intensive form of fish farming, and it’s

high maintenance, so it’s not right for everyone. Additionally, it requires a source of

electricity to power the pump and filter system, so it’s not the ideal solution for an off-

grid farm unless you plan to power it with solar power.

To get started, you’ll need a few things. It’s very reminiscent of the greenhouse farming

method, but it can be easily done indoors, and is particularly well suited to a basement

or a garage.

You’ll need:

• Barrels: You’ll need at least one large barrel, preferably about 55 gallons in size.

Two would be better. This provides you with one barrel for your fish and another

to act as the filtering segment.

Fill the empty barrel with lava rocks and drill two holes, one at the top and one a

few inches from the bottom. The top hole will be where the water flows in from

your fish tank, and the bottom one will feed the water out of the filter barrel and

back into the fish barrel.

• Pipe: You’ll need several segments of PVC pipe, including elbows. You’ll need to

create an outflow pipe that runs from the upper portion of your fish barrel to the

upper portion of the filter barrel. You’ll need to do the same for the bottom.

• Pump: You’ll need a pump to move the water from the filter barrel back to the fish

barrel. The water will overflow from the fish barrel into the filter barrel, so you

30    

don’t need a separate pump for that. NOTE: Always pump water INTO your fish

barrel and not OUT of it. That way, if a pipe breaks, the pump might burn out, but

the fish will be safe.

Barrel farming requires that you raise a significant number of fish in a very small area.

That means you’ll need to carefully consider which fish you choose. Not all species will

thrive in such cramped quarters. The stress of overpopulation alone can kill them.

You’ll also have other considerations to worry about, including ongoing cleaning and

maintenance. You’ll also need to feed your fish less, but more frequently. Food left in

the water will quickly sour the situation, leading to algae and mold.

Going Mobile: One interesting thing about barrel farming is that it can be scaled down to

bucket farming for mobility. This is a good solution for those who find themselves on the

go, whether you’re moving to a rural home or find yourself forced to leave your own

place. However, even fish and water-filled buckets are heavy, so take necessary

precautions.

 

Aquaponics  Systems  

If you’re not familiar with the term “aquaponics” don’t

worry. It’s a combination of hydroponics and

aquaculture. Essentially, it means raising both fish

and plants in the same system. While it’s more

complex than some of the systems we’ve covered

thus far, an aquaponics setup can be a very good

idea, and can even let you kill two birds with one stone, so to speak.

In an aquaponics system, you have two tanks. One holds water and plants, and the

other holds water and your fish. The two tanks are connected, with overflow from the

plant tank running into the fish tank, and water from the fish tank being pumped into the

plant tank. Is a symbiotic relationship, and while it does require a bit more time and

effort to get running, it’s far less maintenance intensive than other options out there.

31    

The concept is pretty simple. Plants needs three things in order to thrive – water,

nutrients and light. Fish need clean water. Here’s how it works. Your fish create waste.

That waste is poisonous to the fish in concentrated amounts, but to your plants, it’s a

vital source of nutrients.

As the water is moved from the fish tank to the plant tank, it carries with it feces,

ammonia and other substances. Your plants absorb those nutrients and use them to

fuel growth (it’s essentially the same nutrients your plants would get from the soil, but

without the actual dirt involved). Then, clean water is sent back to your fish, and the

cycle repeats.

You’ll need several different things to create a functional aquaponics system, and it’s

more complex than the average home fish farm setup because of the addition of plants.

You’ll need:

• A plastic container large enough to hold the plants you want to grow. This can be

virtually any size, and it really depends on the veggies you’d like to eat. You’ll

find a wide range of plants that will grow in an aquaponics system, but leafy

greens do best with a new system. Root vegetables and flowering plants

(broccoli, cauliflower and the like) have more nutrient needs than a startup

system can offer.

• A floatation or securement system to hold your plants. Since there’s no dirt in the

system, you’ll need a solution to hold your veggies’ roots in the water and the

plant upright. This can be something as simple as a thick piece of Styrofoam, or

you can go more elaborate if you like.

• A plastic container large enough to house your fish. The more fish you stock, the

more nutrients you’ll send to your vegetables, and the more fish you’ll have for

eating and storage later on. The same rules apply to an aquaponics system as

apply to all other forms of fish farming in terms of choosing the appropriate

species. However, if you don’t want to eat the fish, you have a wider range of

choices and you’ll still get the benefits of their nutrient-rich water.

32    

• Piping to carry water from one container to the other. Like all other systems

involving tanks or containers, you need a way to move water from one tank to

another. PVC piping works well. You’ll want to pump water from your plants into

the fish tank, and let the overflow from the fish run into the plant tank. This

usually means mounting the fish tank on an elevated surface like a table, and

leaving the plant tank lower to let gravity do part of the work.

• Cooling and/or warming equipment for the fish tank. Depending on where you

live and the type of fish you’re raising, you may need a cooling and/or warming

system to keep the temperature of the fish tank at the right level. The water in the

plant tank shouldn’t need moderating, unless it’s very cold coming out of the tank

and you’re raising fish that require warm water to thrive.

• A pump to push the water from the plants to the fish. You’ll need a decent pump

to move the water from your plant tank to the fish tank. Make sure the pump is

strong enough to handle the volume of water you want to move. The larger your

system, the higher the pump’s capacity will need to be.

• A power source for the pump. Most pumps plug right into the wall, but that means

you’ll need power available in the location where your aquaponics system is set

up. You can also run it from solar power if you purchase a 12V pump.

There are plenty of other potential options out there depending on how inventive you

want to get. For most people, though, a farm pond or a backyard pond will be the most

convenient, least costly options. They also tend to have fewer maintenance

requirements as compared to indoor fish farming systems.

 

 

33    

Chapter  4  

Threats  to  Your  Fish  

Depending on the type of fish you raise and

your farming method (indoor, farm pond, etc.),

there are a range of threats to your fish.

Understanding these threats is a vital part of

actually achieving success and enjoying a

reliable source of fresh meat and good nutrition.

 

Problems  with  Electricity  

If you’re running an indoor tank system, whether that’s a barrel farm, a home

recirculating system, or an aquaponics system, you’re inherently tied to a power source.

Without the pump running, your fish will run out of air very quickly. Once that happens,

they die. Your pump should both move water and aerate, but you might have a separate

aerator as well.

In either case, a power failure of more than a very limited duration will spell doom for

your fish. Solar panels, a battery and a pump/aerator capable of running on 12V power

can help you avoid this issue. However, if you’re going off grid, that can be problematic

as well. You’ll eventually need to replace components in the system, which may be

difficult or even impossible.

 

Predators  

If you’re operating an indoor fish farm, the only predators you’ll have to worry about are

the fish themselves. However, if you’re doing it outdoors, you’ll have to contend with a

wide range of predators, depending on where your system is located and the type of

system in question.

34    

A wide range of mammals, birds and reptiles love a good fish dinner, so keep your eye

open for hawks and other fishing birds (storks, egrets, etc.), as well as snapping turtles,

snakes and more. Even your own cat or dog might cost you a fish or two (remember

that household pets are predators as well).

 

Environmental  Considerations  

We live in a polluted, dirty world. Even areas of the world that rarely see the tread of a

human footstep show the signs of our carelessness in the form of litter that’s blown in.

The Great Pacific Garbage Patch is a perfect example – it’s a field of floating garbage

and refuse that stretches from California across to Japan, and scientists are unable to

even fathom how much trash there is because of its size.

We’ve polluted our air and our water, and that WILL have an effect on your fish if you’re

using a cage system in a larger body of water, diverting water from a stream or creek, or

using a gate method.

There are actually more human-caused environmental factors to worry outdoor fish

farmers than there are predators that might cull your harvest. Just a sampling of them

include the following:

• Poisons applied to areas upstream that wash down

• Pesticides and herbicides applied to crops that wash into the water table

• Fertilizers applied to crops and fields that wash into the water

• Garbage tossed or blown into the water – even something as simple as six-pack

rings can wreak havoc

• Chemicals dumped into or washed into the water (can include anything from

antifreeze to motor oil and everything in between)

35    

 

Natural  Threats  

In addition to predators, there are other natural threats out there that can wreak havoc

either directly or indirectly on your fish and ruin your harvest. These include:

• Lack of Oxygen: As fish breathe, they naturally deplete the oxygen in the water.

In a balanced system, plants, bacteria and other creatures add oxygen back.

However, if your system is not balanced, oxygen depletion can kill your fish.

Oxygen depletion can also occur with environmental contamination.

• Freezing: Some fish species might be able to survive cold temperatures, but

none of them will survive being frozen. If your pond is too shallow, it can freeze

solid, killing the fish within. The best defense here is to make the pond deep

enough that it can’t freeze during the winter. Incidentally, deeper water also

deters predators like wading birds and raccoons. If you can’t dig your pond deep

enough, consider an indoor fish farm.

• Extreme Heat: Actually, heat doesn’t have to be extreme to hurt your fish. A hot

spell can be enough to kill them quickly. Like freezing, the only way to prevent

against this threat is by making your pond deep enough and ensuring that you’re

using fresh, cold, aerated water for species like trout.

• pH Balance: If the pH of your water is off (too alkaline or too acidic), your entire

fish population can be wiped out. The only way to ensure this doesn’t happen is

to test regularly (daily is best) and make adjustments to the pH as necessary.

There are chemicals that will help balance the acidity/alkalinity of your water, but

there are also natural options like salt and sugar if you prefer not to use

chemicals.

• Parasites: Fish have few parasites, but a farming setup can lead to more

pronounced infections among your fish. The captive environment, the use of

chemicals (if you use them), exposure to other chemicals in cages and the like all

36    

mean that freshwater fish run the

risk of being infected. Some of the

parasites that afflict freshwater fish

in North America alone include:

o Tapeworms

o Grubs (flukes) – black,

white and yellow

o Ich (ichthyophirius)

o Cestodes

o Nematodes

o Anisakis

o Various forms of fungi

o Kudoa

o Henneguya

o Roundworms

Note that most of the parasites that affect fish in North America are not harmful to

humans, with the exception of roundworms, flukes and tapeworms. However,

they can decimate a home fish farm population very quickly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

37    

Chapter  5  

Care  and  Feeding  

While feeding your fish will be similar in all

farming methods, caring for your fish and your

farm will differ from one to the next. You’ll need

to take different steps in caring for fish in a farm

pond than you would in a greenhouse system or

an aquaponics system.

Of course, there’s some difference in feeding as

well, particularly if you’re interested in avoiding commercial feed, which is always the

best option. In this chapter, we’ll look at care and feeding to ensure that you’re able to

create a self-sustaining fish farm that will supply you and your family with fresh, quality

food for a long time to come.

 

Caring  for  Fry  

Fry are baby fish – once the eggs hatch, you’ll have dozens, perhaps hundreds, of

minute fish swimming around your farming environment. If you’re raising your fish in a

pond, cage or gated system, there are only a few things you can do to care for them,

but if you’re raising your fish in a tank-based system, you can and should do a lot.

The most important thing with pond-based farming systems is to protect your fry from

hungry predators. Fry hang out in the shallows, where hungry wading birds,

opportunistic raccoons, and even your own cat can easily get at them. You’re going to

lose some fry – there’s no getting around that. However, you can’t afford to lose too

many or your fish population will crash and may never recover.

Make sure you’re raising your fry in enclosed spaces close to shore and within easy

reach of you – cover these boxes or enclosures with mesh netting to prevent predators

from getting at your fry. Some fish farmers choose to create smaller ponds specifically

38    

for fry that can be entirely covered with mesh. If you’re using a tank system, you can do

the same thing using a five-gallon bucket or another small container.

In all fry raising situations, you’ll need to ensure that you’re feeding your fish correctly,

and that you’re cleaning the area properly. You can find commercial fry food on the

market, but it’s best to start them out on natural food early on.

Insects and freshwater shrimp are ideal options for your fry, although they’ll be too large

for them to eat immediately. To overcome the size issue, add the food to a bit of muslin

and wrap it up like a teabag. Add the bag to the water, and you’ll notice very small

pieces of food begin to break off and fall out of the bag and into the water. Your fry will

eat this and thrive. Eventually, you can dispense with the bag completely.

The problem with feeding fry is that no matter how hungry they are or how many fry you

have at one time, some of the food is going to fall to the bottom of the pond or bucket.

There, it will begin to rot. Too much rotting food begins to turn the water anaerobic,

meaning that few things can live there other than bacteria. Get around this by mixing up

a batch of fresh mud using clean earth and water. Add the mud directly to the pond or

bucket. You want enough mud in the water that you cannot see the bottom, or even the

fry.

Eventually, the mud will settle out and cover the decaying food underneath, sealing it

away from contact with the water. Of course, this leads to a problem of silting up,

reducing the volume in your pond, but that can be handled by occasionally draining the

fry pond and digging it back down again. Bucket systems can be simply emptied and

cleaned out before being put back to use.

 

Beneficial  and  Harmful  Species  for  Pond  Systems  

Whether you’re working with a farm pond or a basic backyard pond, you’ll find a wide

range of different species flock to your water source. Some of these are good, and

some are bad. Understanding which species you want and which you need to eliminate

will help ensure that your fish remain healthy over the long term. Tank system operators

39    

don’t need to worry about this consideration as much, since the farm will be in an

enclosed area where other species’ access will be limited.

Native insects are both friend and foe. Some become food for your fish as they grow.

Others prey on your fish as eggs, and even as fry. While you will never be able to keep

insects completely out of an outdoor fish farming setup, you should take steps to help

limit the number that make it home. If you notice swarms or a full-blown insect

infestation, it’s time to take immediate action. You’ll find a number of pesticides on the

market that are designed to kill insects while not harming your fish.

You can also get around this issue by completely covering your pond with fine netting

that will allow water, air and sunshine through, but not insects. Netting will also help

prevent predatory birds and other animals from getting at your fish.

If you install netting, it should cover the entire pond, and must be anchored strongly into

the bank to prevent determined wading birds from breaking through. Of course, netting

might not be an option for your pond. Farm ponds serve as sources of water for your

livestock. In these cases, consider adding a few insectivore fish species to the mix to

help keep infestations from happening.

 

Pond  Care  

If you’re working with a medium to larger size pond, whether manmade or natural, you’ll

need to take some specific steps to care for the pond (the water, the shore, etc.), as

well as the fish that call the area home. In smaller ponds, this is less of a concern, and

in a tank-based system, you have complete control over all factors, which means very

different care and maintenance tasks.

• Phytoplankton – Even if you don’t intend to raise freshwater shrimp for food,

these little crustaceans will form a very important part of your pond’s ecosystem

and provide a vital supplement for your fish. If you intend to feed them directly

only, you don’t need to worry about phytoplankton as much.

40    

However, if you’re trying to reduce your reliance on manufacturers and

commercial developers, you will want to ensure your fish have as many natural

food sources as possible. Phytoplankton are rich in nutrients and protein, and

can be largely self-sustaining.

• Lime and Fertilizer – Adding lime and fertilizer to the water sounds like a bad

idea. After all, aren’t many of the problems with our lakes, rivers and oceans due

to fertilizer runoff entering the water? Yes, but this is different.

By adding inorganic fertilizers to the water, you boost phytoplankton growth,

which in turn boosts fish growth as they have access to more food. Limestone

helps maintain the pH of your water and reduces the amount of toxic heavy

metals your fish have to deal with (think mercury).

• Adding Structures – Successful pond systems are more complex than a

depression in the land filled with water. Beneath the surface, you need structures

for the fish. These serve as protection from the sun and from predators, but they

also serve as breeding grounds, as areas for your fish to congregate (making

harvesting easier), and also spots for resting and feeding.

You can create structures in any number of ways – a downed tree can be added

easily. Cinder blocks stacked at the bottom of the pond work as well. Feel free to

use your imagination here – just make sure that whatever you add to the pond

isn’t going to leach toxic chemicals or heavy metals into the water.

• Plants (Aquatic and Shore-Based) – A healthy pond needs a variety of plants,

both fully aquatic plants, as well as semi-aquatic and shore-based ones. Plants

create homes for algae, which feeds your fish and other animals in your

ecosystem.

41    

They also help absorb runoff from the surrounding area, and provide essential

cover for small creatures (including your fry). The problem here is that plants can

quickly get out of hand if you’re not careful.

It’s simplest to maintain your plants mechanically – cutting or shearing them

down regularly. Don’t let cut plants remain in the water, though. They’ll rot and

decay, creating problems down the road. You can also add species like grass

carp to the mix. These are herbivores and, while sterile so they won’t reproduce,

can help keep your aquatic plants in check.

 

Feeding  –  Commercial  Food  or  Natural  Sources?  

Large-scale fish farms have little choice but to use commercial fish food in order to

maintain the level of production demanded by our society. Home fish farms don’t have

that problem. You’re free to let your fish grow more slowly, and to rely more heavily (or

completely) on natural foods.

However, you may find that you need to supplement your fish population’s food with

commercial pelletized foods. This is important in the beginning stages of your farm

before you’ve built up the necessary infrastructure of plants and animals to support your

fish.

The problem here is that not all commercial fish food is created equal. Many of them

contain things like hormones and antibiotics (the same things that cause issues with

dairy cattle, ducks, chickens and other livestock). It’s best to avoid these issues,

particularly if you want to cut ties with manufacturing, or you’re anticipating a time when

commercial food will no longer be available.

To get your fish farm started, there are organic, natural foods out there. They cost a bit

more than their chemical-laden cousins, but are well worth the extra price. When buying

fish food, check the packaging for the following:

• No GMOs

42    

• Fish products used in manufacturing the feed are derived from human-grade

food fish only

• No chemicals

• No GMO fish in fish-derived food components

• No antibiotics

• No hormones

While organic fish food will help you get your farm started, it’s not the ideal solution to

your long-term feeding needs. However, if you’re raising fish in a tank-based system,

you will have no choice but to rely on commercially produced fish food as your tanks will

not be able to support a food-producing ecosystem of plants and animals.

Even aquaponics systems must be supplemented with commercial fish food. The only

self-sustaining fish farming method that does not involve supplementation or complete

reliance on the manufacturing sector is pond-based farming. What’s more, only larger

ponds are capable of supporting the entire ecosystem necessary for fish to feed

themselves (ponds sized 1/2-acre and above).

 

A  Look  at  the  Natural  Food  System  It’s easy to understand a food system based on commercial fish food. You feed your

fish twice a day, and they eat what you put in the water. That’s pretty much the whole

process. However, nature is far more complex and intricate. Everything is connected (in

the real world, everything IS connected, and it’s only humanity’s arrogance that makes

us think it’s not). A very wide range of creatures is needed to create a thriving, self-

sustaining food chain. Additionally, a great deal will depend on the fish you select –

herbivores, omnivores or carnivores.

• Herbivores – Herbivorous fish species that you might choose for your farm

include tilapia rendalli, as well as others (the Chinese silver carp, for instance).

• Omnivores – Nile tilapia are omnivores, as are common carp, mrigal and many

other species (not all of which are suitable for human consumption).

43    

• Carnivores – Many of the fish species that you might consider for your farm are

carnivores, including trout and catfish.

The food chain for a healthy, self-sustaining pond looks something like this (in order

from smallest to largest):

• Phytoplankton – Food for fry and other fish (cyanobacteria and algae)

• Zooplankton – As fry grow, they move on to larger creatures (rotifers and small

cladoceres)

• Large cladoceres

• Copepods

• Insects (larval, pupae and adult)

• Mollusks (a variety of snails)

• Tadpoles

• Adult frogs

• Other fish

You can also supplement these food sources by adding others to your pond. These

include:

• Chopped grass (not too heavily)

• Spoiled fruit and vegetables

• Termites

• Beer brewing waste

• Leftover food

Of course, you should tailor these to the type of fish you’re raising. You would see little

benefit from adding rotting fruit to a pond stocked with carnivorous fish, other than a

boost to the growth of phytoplankton.

 

 

 

44    

Chapter  6  

Harvesting  and  Preservation  

The goal of farming your own fish is to

provide your family with a steady

stream of highly nutritious foods. Like

gardening, you’ll have to harvest your

fish in order to eat it. You’ll also need

to preserve your fish for future use.

There’s good news here – you can

easily harvest, preserve and store fish

in a wide range of methods, some of

which don’t even need electricity. In this chapter, we’ll cover the basics you’ll need to

know in order to get started.

 

Harvesting  Your  Fish  

In order to eat or preserve your fish, you’ll first need to harvest them. This is a bit more

complicated than bringing in your corn, cabbages or cucumbers from the garden. While

fruits and vegetables are easily accessible, your fish live under water.

You can use a hand net to harvest fish in a tank-based system, but ponds pose several

challenges. What’s more, the larger the pond in question, the harder it will be to harvest

your fish. Thankfully, there are quite a few ways to get your fish from the pond to the

table, including the following:

• Rod and Reel – This is perhaps the slowest method of harvesting, but it’s the

best when it comes to harvesting only a small number of fish at a time. For

instance, if you want fish for dinner that night, an hour or two on the bank with a

rod and reel can give you exactly what you want without depopulating your pond

significantly.

45    

• Partial Draining – If you’re using a small pond or a raceway system, you can

partially drain the system and then herd the fish you want into a bucket, net or

other catchment system. Once you’ve harvested the number of fish you want,

you refill the system and let the remaining fish go back to business as usual.

• Complete Draining – Complete draining of ponds shouldn’t be done on a regular

basis, as you lose many of the creatures that form your ecosystem. However, it is

sometimes necessary for thorough cleaning, particularly if it has been some time.

With the water completely drained, harvesting fish is a simple matter.

• Seining – If you’re not familiar with the term, don’t worry. It’s a netting method.

Partial seining is one of the best options for larger ponds. It will require that you

have a boat, and a net large enough to catch the quantity of fish you want.

Seining is often done in conjunction with a partial draining of the pond to

concentrate the fish and make it easier to harvest larger quantities in less time.

• Netting – A wide range of netting methods can be used, from boat-drawn nets to

portable lift nets carried by hand across the pond. Most will require more than

one person to operate. Netting is one of the least stressful harvesting methods

on the fish, which is important if the fish must be kept alive after harvesting (until

you can kill and clean it, for instance).

• Chemical Harvesting – This method is used when the harvested fish do not need

to be kept alive after harvesting, and in situations of population control. Fish-

killing chemicals are added to the water, and the majority of the fish die within a

few hours. Up to 80% of the fish population can be harvested in this way.

However, the use of chemicals to kill fish is not particularly compatible with an

off-grid, sustainable lifestyle for a number of reasons.

46    

• Small Backyard Ponds and Tanks – Harvesting fish from a tank system or in a

small backyard pond requires nothing more than a hand net. It’s particularly easy

in a tank system, as you can see the fish clearly through the tank. In a small

pond, it can be more difficult, and you have to contend with aquatic plants and

other features you may have installed.

Preserving  Your  Harvest  

Getting your fish out of the pond or

tank is only half of the equation.

There’s more that must be done.

First, you’ll need to clean and

dress the fish. In most cases, you’ll

want fillets, but you might prefer

whole fish. Both can be preserved

in a number of ways.

If you’ve never cleaned a fish before, it’s not terribly difficult, but it does require that you

follow a specific process, which is outlined below.

First, gather your tools. You’ll need the following:

• A flat working surface – a table works best

• A bucket for the refuse

• A good, sharp knife (a filleting blade is best)

• A scaling tool (this can be something as simple as a dull knife)

• A freezer bag or other container to hold the cleaned fish

If you’re filleting your fish, you won’t need to descale it, as you’ll be skinning it

completely. However, if you have a smaller fish and want to keep it whole, you will need

to descale it before you can preserve the meat.

If you’re scaling the fish, follow these steps:

1. Lay the fish flat on your table or other work surface.

47    

2. Grasp the fish by the head with one hand.

3. Rake your descaling tool over the body, moving from the tail toward the head.

4. Repeat until all the scales are removed.

5. Turn the fish over and repeat this process on the opposite side.

If you’re cleaning a whole fish, you’ll need to follow these steps:

1. Lay the fish flat on your work surface.

2. Insert the tip of your knife into the stomach, close to the anal opening.

3. Move your knife upward, cutting toward the head (you can also cut from the head

toward the tail).

4. Use shallow cuts to avoid puncturing the intestines.

5. Open the fish up and scoop out the entrails.

6. Locate the anus and remove it, using a V-shaped cut.

7. If your fish species is one of those with a kidney located by the backbone,

remove it.

8. Rinse the body cavity thoroughly.

9. Wash the exterior of the fish.

10. If you prefer, remove the head (this is optional).

11. Clean your tools immediately and preserve your fish right away.

48    

Filleting a fish is a bit more time intensive, but results in smaller, more manageable

pieces. It’s completely up to your personal preference, though. To fillet your fish, you’ll

need to follow these steps:

1. Lay the fish flat on your table or work surface.

2. Cut behind the gills and pectoral fin to the backbone, but do not cut through the

bone.

3. Turn the fish so that the dorsal fin faces you.

4. Slice along the fish’s back from your initial cut to the tail.

5. Make sure you can lift the meat away from the backbone (not completely

removed from the body).

6. Run the knife blade along the ribs toward the head.

7. Insert your blade from the dorsal side, all the way through the body toward the

bottom.

8. Pull the blade from the gills toward the tail.

9. Lift the fillet away.

10. Repeat this process on the other side of the fish.

11. Saw the skin off the fillets but do not cut through the skin (saw under it).

12. Remove the skin.

13. Soak the fillets in cold water, then pat dry.

49    

Preservation  Techniques  

Once you’ve got your fish cleaned and ready, you’ll need to either cook it, or preserve it.

There are several different options available in terms of preserving fish, but they’re far

from being the same. Some rely on electricity (freezing), while others rely on more

natural methods of preservation. We’ll take a look at several of them in this section.

Refrigerate or Freeze: If you’ll be using your fish soon, you can put it in the refrigerator.

Make sure it’s in a sealed ziplock bag, and don’t wait more than a couple of days to eat

it. If you want to preserve your fish for a future day, you can take that same ziplock bag

and put it in the freezer. Your fish will last up to a year here. Make sure you clearly label

the bag as to the date the fish was frozen and what type of fish it is (if you’re raising

more than one type).

Of course, refrigeration and freezing rely on electricity. If you don’t have power, then this

option isn’t possible. You’ll also find that power outages can spoil your fish – there’s

nothing quite like a freezer full of thawed, spoiled fish to really ruin your day. If you

prefer not to take chances, or you want to explore options that don’t rely on the power

grid, there are several others out there.

Salting: There are few fish preservation methods older than salting. It’s essentially

exactly what it sounds like. You’ll pack your fresh fish in a large quantity of salt. The salt

pulls moisture from the fish, and also prevents bacteria from spreading.

Do NOT use table salt for this – the presence of iodine can cause serious problems.

Pickling salt or sea salt should be used. In addition, salting plays a role in other

preservation methods. Before eating salted fish, you’ll need to soak it for a day or longer

to remove the salt and rehydrate the fish.

Brining: Brining is really nothing more than using saltwater to preserve your fish. You’ll

need good, clean water and pickling or sea salt. Mix up your water to a ratio of at least a

half cup of salt per gallon of water. You can even add other seasonings to the brine.

Add your fish and let it sit – you can brine for as long as you want, up to a week.

50    

Canning: Canning fish is possible, although not necessarily the best option. You’ll need

a pressure canner since fish lacks the acidity necessary to be canned safely with the

boiling water method.

Use small chunks of fish, and small jars (one-half quart or smaller). Make sure you’re

using the right processing time for your fish (your canner should come with a recipe

book that contains processing times pertinent to your make and model). Do NOT can

fish without a pressure canner.

Smoking: Smoked fish has been around almost as long as we’ve been eating fish. It’s

really nothing more than a drying process that combines smoke, heat and salt to

remove the moisture content from your fish. You can opt to brine your fish before

smoking, or smoke it fresh from cleaning. Salted dried fish lasts longer, though. Do not

use evergreen wood (pine, etc.) during the smoking process – hardwood is important to

avoid tar and resin contaminating your fish.

Drying: Drying fish is just like drying beef or any other meat. You can use a dehydrator

for this, or you can hang it to dry outdoors out of the sun. You can also brine your fish

before drying to give it a longer life. Turn your fish several times a day, and make sure

there’s plenty of airflow in the drying area to wick away moisture. It can take several

days to dry fish, and they should be brought indoors at night and salted to absorb more

moisture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

51    

Conclusion  

 

Raising fish in your own home fish farm might sound a little far out at first, but not only is

it simpler than you might think, the range of options in terms of farming systems ensures

that everyone can find one that fits their needs. Whether you’re preparing against a

future disaster, trying to get a little more off the grid, or just want to take back some

control over the food that you and your family consume, there’s a solution for you.

From tank systems to aquaponics to backyard ponds to farm ponds and even larger-

scale options, there’s something out there to fit your needs and ensure that you and

your family are able to enjoy a constant supply of fresh, healthy food that doesn’t come

from the industrial agriculture system.

Raising your own fish ensures that you have a source of high-protein food that’s rich in

vital nutrients, including Omega-3 fatty acids. Not only that, but it allows you to avoid the

frightening problems with today’s industrial fish-farmed foods, and alleviate some of the

burden on the world’s overfished oceans.

No mercury.

No overfishing.

No diseases.

No invasive, nonnative species.

Just fresh, healthy food that you raise on your own, and harvest when you’re ready.

That’s what at home fish farming promises. The key is to start now.

 

 

 

 

 

52    

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