Quick Guide to New Orleans

8/3/2019 Quick Guide to New Orleans

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Here are my recommendations for your visit to New Orleans. Keep in mind that New Orleans isn’t a

city that you “see.” It’s a city you do! So go eat (forget the diet if you’re on one, and I hope you’re not)

and dance and listen to music. If you’re interested in antiques, books or other shops let me know and I’ll

give you some recommendations for those too.

SITES TO SEE

The Aquarium: At the foot of Canal Street, where it meets the Mississippi River. This world-class

institution features fish and other wildlife from the Gulf of Mexico and Louisiana. See the sharks

swimming around the oil rig! See the white alligators! Very cool place.

The Auduban Zoo: Uptown. One of the finest zoos in the US. You can take the street car Uptown, get

off at Audubon Park, and walk across to the zoo, or better yet, take the riverboat cruise that departs

from near the Aquarium. The price includes admission to the Zoo and you get a nifty trip on the Mighty

Mississippi thrown in with the bargain.

The Garden District: This section of New Orleans has some of the most beautiful houses and mansions

anywhere. If you’re into architecture it’s well worth it to take a walk here. Get on the streetcar and ask

the conductor to tell when you’re at the Garden District (about Washington Avenue). If you’re coming

from Downtown/The French Quarter, when you get off the streetcar, head across St. Charles Avenue,

moving away from the streetcar’s left. The Garden District is about twenty square blocks and all you

have to do is stroll around and look. Anne Rice’s mansion is there, although I don’t remember exactly

where. When you’re done, head back to St. Charles Avenues, and walk up to the Columns Hotel for

coffee or a drink. If the weather’s nice the verandah is a lovely setting to sit, talk, and watch the world

go by.

Magazine Street: Full of unique stores and cafes. Well worth the walk if you like to shop. You can take

the street car to Jefferson and then walk the five blocks to Magazine Street, or drive, park, walk

downtown and then take the Magazine Street bus back to where you started. E-mail the merchants

association for a great shoppers guide: http://www.magazinestreet.com/?page=12

Cemeteries: New Orleans’ above-ground cemeteries offer a fascinating look at the city’s history and

culture. Save Our Cemeteries, a non-profit preservation group, offers tours of several. Call for

information and reservations (504-525-3337). Lafayette Cemetery #1 is located in the middle of the

Garden District, right across the street from Commander’s Palace. After the tour you can stroll the

District and view the beautiful houses.

Royal Street: The French Quarter. A street full of small and interesting shops and antique stores.

Excellent for a stroll.

Bourbon Street: Excellent for a stroll of a different sort. Walk past the strip-joints, gay bars, honky-

tonks, sex shops, bars, and music halls. Stop in wherever you like. Two good things to do: Get a

hurricane (rum & kool-aide; not nearly bad as it sounds and it will get you looped faster than you can say

crawfish) in a go-cup, and walk the street. (Yes, you can drink alcohol on the streets in New Orleans, as

long as it isn’t in a glass container.) Or find a bar with balcony and go up to drink and watch the people

below.

http://www.magazinestreet.com/?page=12






MUSIC

Tipitina’s: Located Uptown at Napoleon and Tchoupitoulas Street at the River (501 Napolean / 504-895-

TIPS). Hosts an eclectic mix of music, from the Neville Bros. and Dr. John to the latest college thrash

band. Call ahead to see who’s playing. Be prepared, as the place has no air conditioning and can be quite

crowded, but if you’re looking for an authentic New Orleans music hang out, Tips is it! Sunday

afternoons features Cajun dancing. If you go at night, drive or take a cab there and back.

The House of Blues: The French Quarter, (225 Decatur, near Canal / 504-529-2583). This place rocks,

attracting some of the best and biggest blues, rock, and jazz acts. Ignore the theme restaurant aspect and

enjoy the music. The food is pretty good too. If you’re staying in or near the Quarter, you’ll be fine

walking there at night.

The Maple Leaf: Uptown, (8316 Oak St / 504-866-9359) off of Carrolton. Great place to catch Zydeco

and Cajun music. Used to have Cajun dancing nights and probably still does. You can ride the street car

there, but call a cab to get back to the hotel.

Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville: The French Quarter, (1104 Decatur Street, near the French Market / 504 -

592-2565). I know, Jimmy Buffet, but this is often a good place for Dixieland and jazz. You can walk here

any time if you’re staying in the Quarter.

Preservation Hall: The French Quarter (726 St. Peter / 504-522-2841). I always think of this place as a

bit of a tourist trap. It features a lot of old-time jazz musicians pounding out the same music they played

50 years ago, but some people swear by it.

Snug Harbor: In Farbough Marigny, just outside the Quarter (626 Frenchman / 504-949-0696). Best

place for more modern jazz.

Bourbon Street: The French Quarter. Just walk down Bourbon Street and stop wherever you hearmusic you like.

FOOD

Eating in New Orleans is one of life’s truly great experiences. Whereas in other cities you have to go

out of your way to get good food, in New Orleans you have to try really hard to have a bad meal. The

places below are my favorites, but just a small fraction of the great places to eat.

Herbsaint: The Business District, (701 St. Charles / 504-524-4114) My nephew, Kyle, is the chef here.

Good nuveux Creole.

Cochon: The Warehouse District, (930 Tchoupitoulas St / 504-588-2123) My nephew’s wife is the

pastry chef here. Donald Link’s other restaurant. More casual, than Herbsaint, focus is on meat.



Bayona’s: The French Quarter, (430 Dauphine Street / 504-525-4455). Chef Susan Spicer studied under

Paul Prudhome. The atmosphere and food are both excellent. Lunch or d inner. With wine you’ll spend

about $45-50 per person. My personal favorite restaurant.

Upperline: Uptown, (1413 Upplerline St / 504-891-9822). Get the dish they are famous for, friend green

tomatoes with shrimp roumalade. My wife loves the shrimp and grits.

The Pelican Club: The French Quarter, (312 Exchange Alley / 504-523-1504). One of those restaurants

New Orleaneans keep to themselves. Excellent New Orleans food with an Asian influence. A bit pricey

and it can be noisy, but the service and food are superb.

Red Fish Grill: The French Quarter, (115 Bourbon Street, between Canal and Iberville / 504-598-1200).

Excellent place for lunch. Good neavu New Orleans cooking such as po-boys and gumbos. Not too

expensive and quite tasty.

The Palace Café: The French Quarter (605 Canal, between Chartres & Royal / 504-523-1661) A very

good new New Orleans restaurant. Like all the eateries owned by the Brennan family, the food is

excellent, the service is excellent, and the décor is excellent. A good place for brunch.

Acme Oyster House: The French Quarter, (724 Iberville Street, between Bourbon and Royal / 504-522-

5973). One of the few tourist places that isn’t a trap. Great oysters on the half shell, ready to be washed

down with Dixie Beer, the local brew. For more substantial fare get a po-boy, a sandwich that makes it’s

cousin the sub look anemic in comparison. My favorite po-boys: a sloppy roast beef with plenty gravy

(always be prepared to get a little messy when eating New Orleans food), the fried oyster po-boy, and

the fried shrimp po-boy. Or you can get a gumbo poobah. This is gumbo served in a bowl made of alarge, hollowed piece of bread. When you’re done with the gumbo, eat the bowl!

The Gumbo Shop: The French Quarter (630 St. Pete, near St. Louis Cathedral / 504-525-1486 /

www.gumboshop.com). For the budget-minded. The gumbo here is quite good and the setting is nice.

Definitely try the French bread and butter they serve. Light and fluffy.

Brigtsen’s: Riverbend, (732 Dante, where St. Charles & Carralton meet / 504-861-7610). Run by old

friends of my family. Chef and owner Frank Brightson studied under Paul Prudhome. Excellent New

Orleans food. You’ll absolutely need reservations and make them as early as possible (like before you

leave home). You can take the street car here. Just ask the conductor to tell you when you get to

Riverbend.

Commander’s Palace: The Garden District, (1403 Washington Avenue / 504-899-8221). One of the

finest restaurants in the world, and I’m not exaggerating or saying that lightly. The atmosphere and food

are incredibly exquisite any time, but for a real treat make reservations for the Sunday Jazz Brunch. I’m

especially partial to the turtle soup. You’ll spend about $50-60 per person, but it is well worth it.

DRINKS & AFTER (or before) HOURS:

http://www.gumboshop.com%29/





The Napoleon House: The French Quarter, (500 Charters Street / a block or so before St. Louis

Cathedral / 504-524-9752). My favorite place in the French Quarter to go after dinner or dancing for a

beer or Irish coffee (but forget the food). Opera plays to soothe you, and to sit in the patio and talk is

wonderful. Don’t miss this.

Cafe DuMonde: The French Quarter, (800 Decatur St., in front of Jackson Square / 504-587-0833).

Open 24 hours, this is the place to go at 2 am. The coffee is strong, authentic and very New Orleans.

Get an order of bengiets, sweet French donuts covered in powdered sugar. A New Orleans tradition.

La Marquise: The French Quarter, (625 Charters Street, between St. Louis Cathedral and the Napoleon

House / 504-524-0420). When you need that sugar fix in the morning, this is the place for a breakfast of

real French pastries and coffee.

Pat O’Brian’s: The French Quarter, Conti Street. The best place in New Orleans to get drunk. Go with

a bunch of friends, order hurricanes all around. Pay a few bucks for a deposit on the glass and not only

are you buzzed, you have a souvenir!

Documents

Quick Guide to New Orleans