1
Madura Garments Exports Ltd Quality Manual
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
QUALITY MANUAL
KUMAR & TYAGI CLOTHING
Training and Development of Supervisor
5 May 2014
[The document contains the Quality Manual for a self assumed
company]
1. Quality Assurance
1.1 QUALITY POLICY
MADURA GARMENTS EXPORTS LTD. is committed to comply with
requirements and continuosly improve the Quality management system
and supply high quality garments on time to enhance customer
satisfaction through training and involvement of employees.
1.2 QUALITY OBJECTIVES
1. To increase the Production from the existing level every
year.
2. Continuous improvement
a) Productivity
b) Waste elimination
c) House keeping
3. To make employees multiskilled through training and
development.
4. To maintain and improve Workorder throughput time
5. To reduce seconds percentage
2. Quality checkpoints
NOT OK
Fabric 100% Visual inspection &
trims 10% inspection
OKQuality check at the beginning of the lay
NOT OK
.
OK
Check for the first ply NOT OK
OK
aaa
NOT OK
Quality check in between lay
NOT OK
NOT OK After laying Check the following points at the start and
end of cutting process.
NOT OK
OK
Cut parts; check the following points
NOT OK
NOT OK
OK
NOT OK
OK
NOT OK
Collar visual
OK
Standard, measurement collar
NOT OK
Left and right front parts.
Visual standard, measurement
NOT OK OK
Assembled shirt,
Measurement,
NOT OK OK visual Standard.
OK
NOT OK
Identify first quality
Seconds and rejects
NOT OK
OK
R
OK
E
J
AQL
NOT OK
C
T
S
OK
ACCEPT
3. Quality Procedures
3.1 Fabric Inspection
No sooner Fabric is in house, The Fabric inspection report,
Shrinkage report & 100% Shade bands should be submitted within
48 hours. Fabric is to be cut only after the above reports are
submitted & only if they are approved for bulk production. 100%
of the Fabric is to be inspected on a 4 point system & if the
fabric is in doubt, further 100% should be Inspected. While
submitting the Fabric Inspection reports, all trim inspection
reports should be submitted too. If Fabric is cut without been
Inspected, Total responsibility will be on this department as it is
a violation of a critical aspect. (Annexure 1)3.1.1 Fabric
Inspection. ( Inspection on 4 point system )
Purpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll (For
Wovens)ActivityRequirement
1. Take the roll.
2. Check the roll as per 4 points system.
3. Give penalty points for defects.
4. Calculate index for each individual roll.
5. Calculate final average index for the total no. of rolls
inspected.
6. Decide acceptance or rejectance of the fabricRoll to be
chosen at random
Points / 100 sq. yd. =
Total points in roll * 36 * 100
Total length in yards * width in inches.
Record: Fabric inspection report
Classification P E N A L T Y P O I N T S
1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points
Faults showing in the warp direction of fabric. (Except Holes
and tears). Less than 3inch. Over 3 inch but less than 6 inch. Over
6 inch but less than 9 inch. Over 9 inch.
Faults showing in the weft direction of fabric. (Except Weave
stripes, weft irregularities, holes and tears). Less than
3inch.Over 3 inch but less than 6 inch. Over 6 inch but less than 9
inch. Over 9 inch.
I). Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft
direction and the direction in which the fault is longest is the
fault direction. However when the warp and weft length are same and
when the penalty of the shorter direction is heavier, take the
fault of the direction in which the penalty is heavier. ii). When
the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over
1yd is deemed as fault of the same kind of others. iii). When two
or more faults overlap, apply only the faults which penalty is the
heaviest. iv). When there are two or more faults within the length
of 1yd and the penalty points come over 4 points, the points over 4
points are not added. v). The inspector needs to be at a distance
of 3 feet away from the inspection table and the linear speed of
inspection not to be less than 0.1mtrs per second.
Minimum fault sizes are shown on the Sears Fabric defect scale
:-KnotsSlubs
A do not countA - do not count
B- Count as 1 pointB - do not count
C- Count as 1 pointC- Count as 1 point
D- Count as 1 pointD- Count as 1 point
E- Count as 3 pointsE- Count as 1 point
F- Count as 3 points
G- Count as 3 points
Standards for Passing Fabric:-
Average index for inspected rolls not to exceed 28 points /
100yd.
Maximum index for any roll not to exceed 40 points / 100yd.
3.1.2 100% Shade Bands
If the style is a wash garment, Before & after wash Blankets
should be submitted ( 3 sets each ) covering all rolls and it has
to attached in the shade continuity card (Annexure 2)A 100% shade
band covering all rolls & all colours pertaining to a certain
style / Consignment should be made & approved prior to cutting
of bulk Fabric. Process.
No sooner the Fabric is in house, The Q/A department must ensure
they get the panels representing all rolls within 6 hours from
Stores.
Cut 6 from end of each roll. Over lock & join all panels in
correct grain line direction to be in a Blanket form.
If the Style is a non-wash program, two sets should be
prepared.
If the Style consists of a certain wash, Then 4 Blankets should
be prepared. 02 Blankets non-washed & 2 Blankets with the exact
approved wash of the style.
Once the Shade bands are ready, Dye lot or colour segregation
has to be done. If the Shade Band consists of 2-3 different shades,
such shades should be segregated In to families marked A, B, C Etc.
A copy of the Segregation of shades should be handed over to the
Stores, Cutting, and Merchandising & Production
departments.
Stores will issue & the cutting / Production will proceed as
per the segregated shades without getting mixed.3.1.3 Shrinkage
reportA 100% Shrinkage report should be submitted for all styles
and the washing shrinkage has to be performed as per the wash type
required for the bulk. (Annexure 3)3.2 Trim Inspection report
All trims been In house should be inspected ( 10% ) & the
reports submitted accordingly.
3.2.1 Trims Inspection
Purpose: To check defects and to decide Acceptance / Rejectance
of trims.
Scope: Interlining, Collar bone, Label, Button, Packing
Materials, Swing Ticket, Poly bag, Product box.
ActivityRequirement
A. Interlining
1. meters of lining to be sent to lab.
a. Bond strength
1. Take 10 * 4 of fabric strip and lining strip.
2.Cut rectangular slit 6*1 in Tissue paper of
8 * 4.
3. Sandwich Tissue paper between interlining and fabric then
fuse.
4. Check Pull strength.
If by varying fusing conditions sufficient strength is not
achieved the lot is rejected.
b. Shrinkage Test.
1. Send two collars to lab every day for shrinkage test.
c. Visual Inspection
1. Select the roll as per sampling plan.
Reject the lot is not ok.
EPI / PPI and GSM
Note the temperature, pressure and speed.
Pull strength to be at least 1 kg / sq.cm.
Check for uniformity, micro dots, uniformity of shade.
Record: Interlining Inspection report.
ActivityRequirement
B. Labels
a. Visual Examination
1. Check lettering, color, edges as per the Master and
Specifications.
b. Color fastness test
1. Take few labels get it stitched on the white fabric.
2. Wash with soap and wash petrol.
If color bleeds rejects the lots.
No weaving defects.
Shade continuity.
Smooth and straight edges.
Centered labels.
No color bleeding.
Note: Selection Of all trims for the inspection to be as per
sampling plan.
ActivityRequirement
C. Buttons
1. Check buttons for shade, chip around the edge.
2. Get stitched 10 buttons breaks stitched in machine.
3. If any one button breaks, then check for 10 more buttons.
If there is breakage reject the lot.
D. Packing Material
1. Check edges, slots and slot spacing.
Uniform in shade, gauge.
No chip.
NO breakage
No breakage.
Even edges for all the trims.
Slots and Slot spacing as per the specifications.
ActivityRequirement
E. Swing ticket
1. Inspect visually the lettering.
F. Product Box
1. Check for lettering, hinge, marks and color.
G. Polycovers
1. Check for lettering, uniformity and scratches.
H. Collarbones
1. Check for edges and points.
2. Stick few collarbones on fabric to check for glue.
If gum is insufficient, reject the lot.
No stains and misprints.
No misprints and spread hues
No misprinting and spread hues. Shade continuity to be
maintained.
No cut edges, point to be as per specification.
Should fix firmly to the fabric.
Record: Trims inspection report.
3.3 Size set
Bulk production cannot be started without the QA Department
approving the Size set for each new style. Once the size set is
approved, The Pattern should be checked & authorized by this
department for utilization.
3.4 PP Meeting
A PP meeting should be organized & conducted prior to bulk
production including Buyers Representative, Merchandiser,
Production Manager & all sectional heads, Supervisors &
Q/Cs involved with the particular style. No Production is to start
without a PP Meeting & all points to be discussed &
documented in the PP meeting format (Annexure 4). The QA Manager or
the Technical Manager should write down the minutes & file the
PP meeting comments in the style file Technical, Quality, Packing,
Washing, Shipping ETC.
3.5 Pilot Run
Once the Production submits the Pilot run, Bulk production
should be approved based on the performance of this cut. If it is
not satisfactory, a new pilot run should be made.
3.6 Mock-ups preparation
After the handover meeting of the style to the production floor,
the style requirements as discussed in the meeting should be
converted into the visual standards and displayed at all relevant
work stations as guide for the work.
3.7 Test to failure Purpose Testing mock up pieces (36) to
demonstrate consistency in fabric, threads, machinery. The test
pieces are pulled with a force until they are destroyed
establishing the kilograms at which they are break apart.
Results details- are recorded as = Z factor.
Where there is a consistent result the Z factor will be 4 or
above Pass.
Where there is inconsistency the Z factor will be less than 4
Fail.
Importance
These tests and the documentation are our evidence of the
control to ensure the product we make is safe. It also allows us to
identify if there is any inconsistency which we need address to
improve the product safety.The TTF results are required to
accompany the master style file and should be discused at the time
of hand over meeting.
3.8 Pull Tests
Purpose
To ensure the application is button, stud, snap can withstand a
set kilogram of pulling. The recommendations are specified by our
customer at 7 kg per single pull but as a safe guard MGEL recommend
our procedure is pulled at 8 kg.ImportanceTo ensure the application
can withstand the desired amount of strain in normal wearing
conditions. 5 Pcs randomly must be monitored closely due to product
safety.
3.9 Durability Wash
Purpose
This wash test is carried out in the laboratory to ensure the
garments construction is robust (strong). The laboratory test
highlights any change to the following areas: Seam breakdown, fused
components, change to colour appearnace, optical brightner and
fabric handle, effects on accessories, colour fastness, pleat
sharpness and any wadding. The wash is carried out at 10 degrees
higher than the recommended label wash tempreture. The laboratory
also need a garment reference- for the pre-wash inspection and then
the after wash inspection. 3 garments minimum requirement.
Importance
To ensure all our methods, fabric and trim accessories are
suitable to the style and will perform over numerous times of wear.
To prevent customer returns and customer
dissatisfaction.3.10Cutting Department3.10.1 Laying & Cutting
area Rolls segregated & lay as per shrinkage option or shade
band separation in case of wash & non wash program
respectively.
Relaxation of Fabric for Stretch & Knit at least for 12
Hours and fabric relaxation report maintained.3.10.2 Markers
Check
1. Marker Way
2. All parts All parts are there in the marker.
3. Ratio Size ratios as written on the marker.
4. Shrinkage whether made as per shrinkage option mentioned.
5. Skip whether any cut line is skipped.
6. Overlap check for any part overlapped.
7. Grain line all parts in grain line as per required.
8. Marker length as per mentioned. 3.10.3 Prior to Spreading
1. Fabric Quality report.
2. Shrinkage report.
3. Rolls width to be laid.
4. Rolls shrinkage to be laid.
5. Rolls shade to be laid.
3.10.4 Spreading
1. Table marks check for the table marks as per the lay
length.2. Bowing check for bowing in the fabric3. Narrow goods
check for any narrow goods.4. Mis-alignment of plies plies
alignment at both ends.
5. Leaning check at the edges for leaning6. Ply Tension check
for ply tension7. Count whether plies are counted correctly.8. Nap
direction whether required nap direction is followed.9. End loss
check for end losses.While spreading all the defects identified in
the fabric inspection stage should be marked using a contrast color
waste fabric stripe. (Annexure 5)3.10.5 after cutting
1. Grain direction
2. Notches
3. Ragged cut
4. Selvedge
5. Bowing
Ticketing (numbering) should be done on the same cutting
table.
The cut panel having contrast colour stripe should be inspected
before ticketing for the defects.
3.10.6 Fusing Procedures
Fusing has to be carried out as per the conditions specified by
the interlining supplier, every four hours one sample of the fused
component has to sent for washing and peel bond strength testing
and also the testing of the temp, pressure and time has to be
carried out. In case of failure on any of these all the bundles
fused in last 4 hours on that machine has to be recalled and
refused. During fusing the fusing operator has to follow work
instructions as mentioned in the work instructions sheet for fusing
(Annexure 6). SHAPE \* MERGEFORMAT
3.10.6.1 Testing procedures for fusing
Testing procedure for various test mentioned above are as
follows
Temperature
Using three thermo-paper strips take the temperature across the
width of the press or machine belt.
Check and record the temperature with the recommended speed and
fusing time.
The press will need to be adjusted if variation of more than 5C
below or 10C above the recommended fusing temperature is
recorded.
Time
Check time with a stopwatch for the actual period for which
temperature and pressure is applied on the fused composite.
Washing
Carry out durability wash test daily on the fused components per
fabric per colour.
Peel Bond Strength
Use three strips of fabric, each15x5cms, placed evenly across
the belt, position the interlining to cover the fabric with no
overlap
Set the recommended fusing conditions for bulk production and
allow it to cool.
Conduct peel bond strength test
Ensure an even bond and acceptable peel bond strength before
production.
Fusing all Interlining fusing has to be ready finished (block
cut)
a. Woven interlining Sewing allowance to be .
b. Non fusible woven - ----do---------
The entire interlining pattern has to be aligned with shell
pattern 1/8" less all around
For order size more than 2000 pcs for lining cutting die should
be used.
3.10.7 Assorting & Bundling
The ready to feed bundle should be checked for the following
defects Whether numbers are correct.
Actual quantity as compared to mentioned
Cut parts check against hard pattern.
Shade variation in cut parts with same number.
Fusing defects etc.
3.11 Sewing floorQuality control on the product, Packing &
stacking should be maintained at the highest level.
A full functional traffic light system (Annexure 7) should be
maintained at all times. Statistical process controlling ( SPC )
should be implemented for every line to minimize rejections. No
Garment should be passed with inferior quality & rectification
to be made with immediate effect & documented.
3.11.1 Traffic Light System.
This System is a very affective approach in curtailing &
discontinuing defected panels & garments with discrepancies
from moving in the Line. There are three colors to identify the
progress of the operator & the quality.
Green, Amber & Red bag with the Instructions of Operation
descriptions to be audited.
* Green If this color is flagged by the Line Q/C on top of a
machine, it indicates that the Operation is under control & of
good standing & could proceed to the next operation or
machine.
* Amber - If this color is flagged, it high lights that the
Operation produced by the Operator is in a tolerance margin &
needs close observation from Superiors.
* Red If the Line Q/C has flagged this color on top of a
machine, you should halt the machine & the operation
immediately & rectify same without any delay & ensure the
productivity is not affected. In the same time the Line Q/C must
record Instruction paper what is in color bag & her operation
file to follow up & same Q/C will issue a Pink token to the
Supervisor to rectify same & to follow up in three consecutive
instances in the same Operation (To Ensure 0 defects are maintained
in a particular Operation) & cross check with the Q/A.
The roaming Q/C must continue for each & every machine
Incorporating the same process in the Line (Not more than 32
machines per line), Minimum four times a day.
Each Line Q/A dept should have two In process Audit stations for
100% components check with the defect statistics (In line
Inspection report Annexure 8) maintained which could be analyzed
hourly on each Operation to rectify prior to an Assembling
Garments.
Each end Line should have a QA Audit station performing 100%
Inspection of Garments prior to moving to the next Process &
the Defects to be maintained in the Defect Analysis Report
(Annexure 9).
No inline & end line checkers should have trimmers.
3.11.2 AQL Audit.
Apart from the 100% Inspection at End Line, the Q/A Dept should
Audit the Merchandise randomly to ensure the Quality standard set
by MGEL. Each Auditor should cover 5 Production lines & every
hour as per the given AQL (Annexure 10). If the Standard is
acceptable as per the below stipulated table, The Goods can be
processed for the next Operation. However if the Merchandise is not
up to the required Criteria, Total Qty should be returned back to
the Production Line for immediate rectification & the same
Auditor should closely Monitor until the rectification is complete.
You have to strictly adhere to maintain an AQL level of 1.5 during
Inline Inspections.
3.11.3 Random Measurement Audit.The QA dept should inspect
measurements of Garments randomly covering all styles, Color &
Sizes to ensure the Merchandise is meeting the required
Specification before & after wash. (Annexure11)3.11.4 Finishing
AQL AuditThe QA dept should inspect packed pieces before it is
packed into the cartons on the AQL basis. (Annexure 12)3.11.5 Pre
Final Audit
Prior to handing over merchandise for final Audit to Buyers, the
Q/C department should do an interim Inspection & submit copies
of the reports to the G/M Production & marketing, Production
Manager & the relevant Merchandiser for each P/O. This is
Mandatory. A count & accuracy report should be submitted as
well. ( Annexure 13)3.11.6 Outgoing Quality Level
All the external audit reports should be compiled into one final
report with the defect penalty points will expressed as percentage
of total defectives found over the total quantity shipped out for
that month. Also a report of total external audits failed over
total external audits faced in that month should also be
prepared.(Annexure 14)3.11.7 Reports
All inspection in Production & finishing should be daily
documented by using Inline reports & a copy of these reports
should be submitted to the relevant Merchandiser at least twice a
week without fail.
3.11.8 Samples
The QA Department should submit the following samples, T.O.P
Within 3 days of bulk input as per buyers required size &
Shipment samples as per buyers requirement, one day before final
audit. This should be strictly adhered to.
i) It is mandatory that all Line Quality Supervisors &
controllers should patrol their respective lines on a daily
basis
prior to starting bulk production in the morning to ensure that
the Line is geared to Produce high quality Apparels.
* The following aspects should be taken in to awareness,
a) Cleanliness of the Floor No Garments, Dust, Stickers, Stains
etc to be on floor.
b) Cleanliness of Machines
1) Well cleaned without any dust.
2) Oil level & Stains on M/C to be checked.
3) Needles to be checked & should be fluff free & not
blunt.
4) Any M/C with Red flags on & if, Mechanic to be
questioned.
c) Check for Reject Garments No Reject garment is to be brought
forward from the previous day without been rectified. All Reject
Garments should be rectified on the same day & not kept
separately inside the line.Check trims& fabric as per the
Qty.
Cad checking against master copy, Shrinkage, marker length &
width, proper scrambled sizes, all parts in marker, Line
balancing?
Laying
Style descriptions, Fabric code, W.O. no, Design approval,
Fabric one way or two ways?
Re-do
Shade, width-wise lay, Waviness, Bowing?
Fabric& Trims status
Issue to Cutting
RTS
Re-do
Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches, straight line, repeat
width, Line balancing, pairing, shade ok, Fabric defects marked
Marker placement, Line balancing, No. of plies?
Re-do
Re -Do
Re-Do
Re-Do
Issue of Quality passed cut parts to sewing
Quality check during fusing
Check for W,O no, weaving defect, Style verification, Centre
notch, Fabric Damage,pairing,shape,St line
Check forW.O no,bubbling,Fused thread,Stain,lining
Is W.O.no,size,parts bundleno,numbering,lay no okay?
Re-Do
Is W.O.no,Centre line,Repeat,Balancing,St line,one way okay?
Check for W.O no, bubbling, Fused thread, Stain, lining
Quality check during fusing
Issue of Quality passed cut parts to sewing
Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches, straight line, repeat
width, Line balancing, pairing, shade ok, defects marked
Is W.O. no., Centerline,Repeat,
Balancing,St line,one way,shade OK ?
Is W.O .no, size, parts, bundle no, numbering, lay, shade
OK?
Check for W.O. no., weaving defect, Style verification, Center
notch, Fabric damage, pairing, shape, St line
Re-do
Re-do
Re-do
Re-do
Re-do
Display of reference shirt with comments & receive
information for checking
Re-Work
Check point 1 Collar inspection
In- line inspection by Traffic light System
Re-Work
Check point 2 front pairing
Re-Work
Check point3 trimming & inspection
Re-Work
End Line AQL Audit at AQL 2.5
Release to finishing
Checkpoint 4 Final Inspection
Seconds & alterations
Trolley wise AQL audit (2.5)
Folding & Packing
Pre Final Audit/
Finished Stock Audit
(10%, 25% and 50%)
Offer for final inspection
Release to Warehouse
Fusing
Wash testing, temperature testing, pressure testing, time
testing
Issue to sewing lines
Recall all bundles fused in last 4 hours
Faculty In-charge
Mohammad Umar
DFT
Submitted By
Neetek Kumar
Prashant Tyagi
DFT
SEM VI
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