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HE YARRA VALLEY east of Melbourne held its breath for a while as last February’s Black Saturday bushfires raged through Victoria. It was a little close for comfort. However, the gods smiled and now it’s business as usual for the region synonymous with wine and good times ever since the first vines were planted in 1838, and Paul de Castella built a winery and grandly hospitable homestead in the 1850s. The Yarra used to be renowned for its long-lived cabernet sauvignon

and shiraz, but more recently made its name with pinot noir and chardonnay,

with sauvignon blanc now emerging for its distinctive floral (rather than green) notes. This is one of the few areas in Australia where marsanne is grown in any quantity.

The fortunes of the wine industry in the Yarra Valley have been as mixed as anywhere in the county. There were years

of decline, when dairying and logging were more lucrative; when Warburton was better known for its sanatorium and Healesville was full of guesthouses where Melburnians retreated for the summer. But since vines were replanted in earnest about 40 years ago, and big companies began to acquire holdings in the area, the Yarra Valley has grown into one of Victoria’s best-known wine regions.

The surrounding cool rainforests are national parks and tourist attractions. Dairying has been transformed into the boutique cheeses of Yarra Valley Dairy, and Healesville has become a different kind of retreat. It is “the belly” of the Yarra Valley, full of gastronomic enterprises. Pasta? Here it is, along with an excellent range of sauces. Bakery? Tick. Butcher? Yes, indeed. Gastro-pubs? Of course. But don’t expect to find kangaroo on the menu. Healesville Sanctuary is not far away and is reserved solely for native animals, allowing visitors to stroll among the wildlife. Look, but don’t eat.

Dominique Portet and son Ben (left); pastries and a satisfied patron of the Healesville Hotel (below); Yering Station (opposite)

VICTORIA VICTORIA YARRA VALLEYYARRA VALLEY

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EAT & DRINKDOMINIQUE PORTET870 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream.(03) 5962 5760. www.dominiqueportet.comThe building, with its big shuttered windows, sits snug and low on the ground, reminiscent of a French farmhouse. Dominique Portet comes from a long line of winemakers across three continents (his father in Bordeaux and his brother Bernard in California). His sons are the 10th generation to be involved. Most of the wines are made from Yarra Valley fruit, with the exception of the Heathcote shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. The rosé is a benchmark. Tastings and light meals are available. Open daily.

HEALESVILLE HOTEL256 Maroondah Highway, Healesville. (03) 5962 4002. www.healesvillehotel.com.auThis solid, early 20th-century country pub has grown into

a considerable foodie empire. There’s the pub, with its dining room (recommended), bar (sometimes fine), garden and accommodation within the pub and in two self-contained cottages on Harvest Farm. Neil Cunningham’s international flavours make excellent use of regional produce. Next door is the Harvest Cafe, which serves breakfast and lunch daily, and offers an array of local produce and other foodstuffs. There’s even a store. Open daily.

GIANT STEPS/INNOCENT BYSTANDER336 Maroondah Highway, Healesville. (03) 5962 6111. www.giant-steps.com.auPhil and Allison Sexton, having established Devil’s Lair, Matilda Bay and Little Creatures in Western Australia, came east and again turned their hands to wine and beer. Giant Steps, named after an album by jazz saxophonist John Coltrane, is a winery and a good deal more.Wine, beer, bread and coffee

Local produce could fill the table: apples, cherries, berries, peaches, brussels sprouts, shallots, preserves, venison, Kennedy and Wilson chocolate, pasta, cheeses.

Some of Australia’s big wine names are there. Domaine Chandon and De Bortoli, Coldstream Hills, the legendary Mount Mary and Yeringberg. Big company wineries (Foster’s, De Bortoli) neighbour smaller ones. The mix is important to the strength of the place, as is the mix of farm-ing and bush, residences and tourism.

The best way to explore the Yarra Valley is to follow the example of the river: don’t rush. There are three highways that traverse the valley: the Melba (named for the great soprano Dame Nellie Melba, who retired there), the Maroon-dah (which leads to Healesville) and the Warburton. Each has its own character and attractions.

Clockwise at Giant Steps: tarts; Innocent Bystander wine;

baker Lindon Clarke and chef Pip Hayes

YARRA VALLEY

The best way to explore is to follow the example of the river: don’t rush‘‘

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