2015

pureJersey

Wildlife watching with Mike Dilger

War and liberation with Colonel John Blashford-Snell

Plus Green Jersey, luxury Jersey, family Jersey,foodie Jersey, festival Jersey

Wet n wild watersports with Karen Bowerman

Beach caf bonanza with Roger Thomas

Jersey is different. If ever we needed reminding of that fact then put 9 May 2015 in your diary. The Channel Islands were the only part of the British Isles to be invaded during World War Two. The date, marking the 70th anniversary of Jerseys Liberation from occupying forces, will be the centrepiece of a festival that celebrates Jerseys identity and island spirit.

Thats the key to it all: island spirit. Geographically, Jersey is nearer France than the UK. So its inevitable that continental influences have rubbed off. Its a defining feature in explaining what makes Jersey different. The island is a mix of English reserve and French savoir-faire, buzzy, cosmopolitan harbours and timeless hidden valleys, continental flair and scenes that are reassuringly familiar to UK visitors. Its cream teas and croissants, Breton-beating seafood and traditional beach cafs, British pounds and French placenames.

We strive to reflect all of this in pureJersey. Its a proper magazine, not a holiday brochure, with a wide range of contributors everyone from Mike Dilger, The One Shows favourite wildlife presenter, to a real family writing about their real experiences.

We think its a refreshing, honest approach. Hope you enjoy the read.

Roger ThomasEditor: pureJersey

Front cover: Elizabeth Castle, St HelierMap illustration: Oli Nightingale

pureJersey02

FAMILY SAFARIThe Carroll family Nathan,

Naomi, Freya (aged 10) and Loki (aged three) packed a lot into their short break in Jersey. And met lots of animals along the way. Heres Naomis daily diary

DAY ONE

We arrive at Hamptonne after a short drive from the

airport. What a lovely surprise! Hamptonne is a museum

of rural life consisting of a collection of authentically

preserved old buildings. It gets even better, for you can

actually stay here, in holiday accommodation set within

the historic farm complex. Its a quirky set-up since we

accessed our apartment through a stable building. But

unlike its setting, the accommodation is no museum

piece. Open the door and youre greeted by modern

finishes and comforts, yet still have a place with bags

of character, low (thankfully padded) beams and pretty

picture windows.

Hamptonne is a snapshot of a bygone Jersey and

its rural history dating back to the 15th century.

Its living history too, brought to life by the Goodwyf

and her household. The museum also contains lots

of farm animals, which were a great hit with the

children. Chickens and their chicks wander freely

around the paths, and we had an interesting talk from

the Goodwyfs male counterpart on how to make

soap, medieval-style. It felt extra special to return

to Hamptonne after a day out and have the place to

ourselves, seeing the animals and buildings without

anyone else around.

After the excitement of settling two children into their

new surroundings we went off to explore. Food was

first on the agenda; we found a small supermarket with

everything we needed, including some local produce,

fresh strawberries and Jersey cream YUM!

At Hamptonne you feel youre tucked away in the

heart of the country, enveloped in fields and woods.

Yet once stocked up here we were, just a few minutes

later, strolling along the seafront at St Aubins Bay.

Immediately noticeable was the amount of people

cycling, running or whizzing by on roller blades. We

just stopped and stared, admiring the huge view from

St Helier and Elizabeth Castle at one end of the bay

to the picturesque boat-filled harbour of St Aubin

at the other.

Meeting the locals

book online at www.jersey.com 03

Both children were really looking forward to our visit to Durrell Wildlife Park. It didnt fail to impress. An Andean bear lazily lounging high on a tree branch as we entered the park made for a special welcome. The range of animals was huge,

from tiny little tree frogs to imposing gorillas. The reptile house was a winner; Loki was intrigued by the dinosaurs (iguanas actually). We couldnt believe how well the displays held his attention. As anyone with a three-year-old will know this can be a challenge.

There were activity cards, interactive displays, lots of video information and posters all around the park, making it easy and inviting for children to access information. And the entire place was immaculately kept with a feel of real quality unlike many of your average zoos. Dips, cubby holes and hidden corners in the parks layout kept you guessing as to what might come next.

The definite star of the show was Indigo the baby gorilla. We were lucky to catch feeding time for her and her family. One last thing not to be missed is the Durrell exhibition, a treasure trove of insight and information into the man himself, Gerald Durrell, who founded the park.

Freya by this point said she couldnt walk any further but after a short rest in the car (short being the operative word as nothing is far in Jersey) we arrived at Mont Orgueil Castle. I neednt have worried, for once we started to climb the stairs of this inspiring fortress the castle captured her imagination.

She was off asking the volunteer custodians questions with Loki trying to keep up, which he did very well all the way to the top. The dressing-up area was huge fun, Freya and Loki donning their princess and knights costumes respectively to continue their exploration. The place had a lovely atmosphere, with staff in costume playing music and demonstrating crafts, and a wealth of things to look at all the way around. I especially enjoyed seeing the work of Chris Levine The Queen. These were holographic portraits of the Queen commissioned as part of the Jersey 1204 to 2004 celebrations. And those hundreds of steps were all worth it for the panoramic view from the top of the castle across the waves to France.

The Carroll family in the green heart of Jersey

Indigo, Durrells baby gorilla

I guess the sun doesnt always shine in Jersey; the rain

hasnt stopped all day! Fear not, we managed to find

quite a few things to do when the sun was hiding.

First stop was the Maritime Museum in St Helier, a

fun and fascinating place thats full to the brim with

interactive displays, models, videos and activities.

It has won awards for the clever ways it engages

children of all ages, including us. We were all

encouraged to touch, smell and feel the displays,

and greatly enjoyed playing sailors on the

reproduction ship.

As the rain was still clattering down we decided to

investigate Jerseys northern coast. Its amazing how

the scenery changes so dramatically here in just a couple

of miles. The wild cliff edges and rugged coast were in

stark contrast to the sandy, busier south. We fell upon

a pub called Le Moulin de Lecq in Grve de Lecq, which

had parts from a watermill dating back to the 12th

century. The staff were very welcoming and friendly

and the proper pub grub with some specialist dishes

thrown in were just what we needed. Definitely worth

driving out to. And to cap it all off we even managed to

squeeze in a game of 10-pin bowling that evening.

DAY THREE

Up and off to aMaizin! Adventure Park today, one of Jerseys most popular family attractions. And the weather is kinder. Its a great place for the kids to let off steam. Even we grown-ups joined in with the go-karts and bouncy pillow (a kind of bouncy castle on steroids). The clue to the main attraction here is in the name: aMaizins famous maze made out of, well maize. We opted for the long version, but unless you are better at mazes than us head for the shorter option instead. Yes, we did get lost. Frequently.

We then checked out some beaches on the south and west of the island, starting with St Brelades, a sheltered bay of lovely fine sand with a safe, gentle beach for bathing and paddling. St Ouens, in the west,

is very different. Much more open to the elements, this long bay is the most popular surfing spot in surfing-mad Jersey. Its not as child-friendly as St Brelades, but it does have several lifeguard-flagged sections for bathing, and the sea, even on this exposed beach, is noticeably warmer than on mainland UK.

Well, what a fabulous few days. We were thoroughly impressed by this tiny island, so well kept and hospitable. And so close to home.

pureJersey04

Jerseys rugged north coast

Maritime Museum

DAY FOUR

More aMaizin! fun

aMaizin! Adventure Park

book online at www.jersey.com 05

My favourite day was at Durrell Wildlife Park. I enjoyed the gorillas most because they were funny and understood what the keepers were saying to them. The baby gorilla, Indigo, loved playing in the bushes and climbing up trees.

We also went to Mont Orgueil Castle where you could dress up as knights and princesses and run around in costumes. We went to the top of the castle where you could see right the way to France. At the bottom of the castle they had stocks and pillories where we had fun locking Dad in the stocks.

aMaizin! was amazing! The best thing was the toboggans. You rushed down the hill either on rubber rings or a small Swiss bob sledge. The sledge is the best choice if you like speed. The maze was cool, but massive. I also loved the giant jumping pillow.

We stayed in Hamptonne Country Life Museum, which had farm animals. Each morning I would go down and see the pigs, calves, cockerels, chickens and chicks. Loki enjoyed coming out with me and I would take him to the play room.

It was the best holiday ever!

The first thing we noticed on driving

out of the airport in our hire car was

the speed of the drivers. Or rather,

lack of it. Twenty miles per hour limits

are common, its 30 or 40mph on main

roads and in the narrow Green Lanes

its 15MPH!

Even main roads here are comparable to

rural back lanes on the British mainland.

It took me a little while to get used

to the scale of the map, with junctions

that looked like they would be miles

away suddenly appearing before us.

That said, the driving pace is easier,

something thats much appreciated

when youre cycling or walking. Drivers are tremendously courteous

and give way readily at junctions

to let you out whenever needed.

See overleaf for details of family attractions in Jersey. qFREYA'S FAVOURITES

NATHAN GOES SLOW

St Brelades Bay on the sandy south coast

PLAY STATIONSIts not difficult to keep the kids (and parents) entertained in Jersey. Quite apart from all those beaches, sandcastles, rock pools and ice cream opportunities, the island has a suitcase full of tricks and treats to keep children happy whatever the weather.

J E R S E Y F I L E

Animals and adventure parksIts our most famous attraction. But even that description doesnt begin to do justice to Durrell Wildlife Park. Jersey is the base of this international organisation dedicated to conserving endangered species worldwide. See how they go about things at Durrells beautiful 32-acre/13-hectare grounds, home to over 1,400 mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians, including gorillas, orang-utans and manic meerkats.

Youre guaranteed to get lost at aMaizin! Maze and Adventure Park. After youve found your way out of the maze enjoy the rides, games and farm animals. Adventure and family fun are also the themes at Jerseys Living Legend Village, a large complex with multi-media theatre, adventure golf, go-karting, crafts, play areas and outdoor entertainment.

Ti k Li t

- H r 's Wh t Yo 'l Ne d

DURRELL, HOMETO OVER1,400ANIMALS

06 pureJersey

aMaizin! Maze

Les Mielles

Country lifeOn the previous pages the Carroll family told us what they got up to from their base at Hamptonne in the heart of the country. Its one of a number of quirky historic properties, including coastal forts, which you can rent from:Jersey Heritage Holiday LetsT 01534 633304www.jerseyheritage.org/heritage-holiday-lets

The National Trust for Jersey also has a few historic properties for rent. www.nationaltrust.je

Hamptonne

Durrell Wildlife Park

For the record

aMaizin! Adventure Park, St PeterOpen Aprilmid-September.T 01534 482116www.jerseyleisure.co.uk

Aqua Splash, Waterfront Centre, St Helier Open all year. T 01534 734524www.aquasplash.je

Creepy Valley Adventure Centre, Les Ormes Golf and Leisure Village, St BreladeOpen all year. T 01534 638888www.creepyvalley.je

Durrell Wildlife Park, TrinityOpen all year. T 01534 860000www.durrell.org

Fort Regent, St HelierOpen all year. T 01534 449836www.active.je

Jersey Bowl, St PeterOpen all year. T 01534 490444www.jerseybowl.com

Jerseys Living Legend Village, St PeterOpen MarchNovember. T 01534 485496www.jerseyslivinglegend.co.je

Jersey Marine LakeOpen MaySeptember.T 01534 497000www.jerseymarinelake.co.uk

Les Mielles Fun Zone, St Ouens BayOpen AprilNovember. T 01534 483699www.lesmielles.com

Les Quennevais Sports Centre, St Brelade Open all year.T 01534 449880www.active.je

twitter.com/jerseytourismfacebook.com/visitjersey

youtube.com/jerseytourismflickr.com/jerseytourism

For all the latest

Ti k Li t

- H r 's Wh t Yo 'l Ne d

Air, land and waterHow high do you want to go? Theres thrilling aerial trekking and acrobatics on high ropes, zip wires and giant swings at Creepy Valley Adventure Centre. For all kinds of water games head for the pools, slides and flumes at Aqua Splash. Theres more aquatic activity including swimming, snorkelling and kayaking at the recently reopened Jersey Marine Lake, St Aubins Bay. One of the UKs largest marine lakes, it covers and uncovers about three hours either side of the hide tide. For sports facilities theres Fort Regent and Les Quennevais Sports Centre (the latter complete with indoor pool).

Family activities at Les Mielles Fun Zone include mini-golf, laser clay pigeon shooting and a Segway Rally course. Jersey Bowls 18-lane bowling centre (plus video games and outdoor play area) is another popular family attraction.

t Free and easy

See overleaf for great-value Jersey and things that are

absolutely free. 07

Creepy Valley

The Best Things In Life

08 pureJersey

are free. Well, or almost free. You dont need to spend a fortune to have a good time in Jersey. Pack a picnic. Have a barbecue. Chill out on the beach. Soak up a sunset. Here are more ideas on how to enjoy Jersey for free, together with some great money-saving ideas.

Free

Costa not a lot

Jersey doesnt cost the earth. The island offers great value for money, its quick and easy to get to and when you arrive, you wont have any nasty, pricey shocks, for you pay in pounds, not euros

Youll be amazed by what you can get up to on an island measuring just nine miles by five. Jersey is jam-packed with reasonably priced attractions and places to visit. And because were small, getting around and about is easy and inexpensive, especially if you use an unlimited-travel pass from LibertyBus.

Pick a packageMany tour operators offer easy-to-book, attractively priced holidays and short breaks in Jersey inclusive of travel (by air or sea) and accommodation. Take a look at the listing at the back of this publication or the Book a Holiday pages of our website. Between them, these operators offer a dizzying variety of great-value packages. Many will even tailor-make a break just for you.

For extra-special value see our websites Special Offers. These can save you even more money, including free car hire, free half board, free insurance, reductions for children and stay three nights for the price of two.

www.jersey.com/specialoffers

Freedom of the islandGet yourself an unlimited-travel LibertyBus pass. Theyre available for one, two, three and seven days. Ask at our Visitor Centre for details (T 01534 448877) or go to www.libertybus.je

Jersey on a shoestring

The sun rising from the Dolmen de

Faldout on the east coast, one of

our many prehistoric sites dont

worry if youre not an early

bird, theyre open all hours

Almost 100 miles of cycle

ROUTES all you need are

two wheels

Picnic at Grosnez

the castle is free,

the food costs

peanuts

Freedom

J E R S E Y F I L E

Beautiful,

undiscovered

Beauport Bay (dont

even have to pay

for parking)

Booking made easyHolidays and short breaks in Jersey are easy to arrange. Flights and ferry crossings are short, youre dealing in pounds, not euros, and booking is swift and straightforward. Hotels and operators are listed in the back of this publication. Book direct with them or use the free service for advice and booking on 01534 448888. Or book online at www.jersey.com

book online at www.jersey.com 09

Festival time its free! Go

walking with a guide, watch

air displays, make black

butter (an island speciality),

celebrate Christmas

Window shopping

in St Helier but

can you resist

going inside?

Our top attractions those Jersey beaches, cliffs, harbours, Green Lanes and woodlands are absolutely free. Here are a few more things that wont cost you a penny:

Get to know the island on free guided walks during our Spring and Autumn Walking Weeks (www.jersey.com/walking).

Help celebrate the end of the German Occupation of Jersey on Liberation Day, 9 May, when St Helier puts on a great show of pageants and performances.

Reach for the skies at the Jersey International Air Display in September. Its one of the worlds greatest free aerial spectacles (www.jerseyairdisplay.org.uk).

Discover mysterious prehistoric sites and chilling German war bunkers scattered across the island (see www.prehistoricjersey.net, www.jerseyheritage.org and the

Occupation Trail Map available free from Jersey Tourism).

Visit the Harbour Gallery, St Aubin, for a superb display of original art and sculpture (www.theharbourgalleryjersey.com).

Lend a hand at Black Butter making. Learn all about this tasty island delicacy during our Black Butter making weekend, 2426 October (www.nationaltrust.je).

Get festive during La Fte d Nou. Banish midwinter blues at Jerseys fabulous pre-Christmas festival, 36 December, when island life shines brighter than ever at parades and street performances, markets and musical events.

Jersey for free

Soak up St Aubin. The harbour is

a class act, but we bet you wont

be able to resist a waterfront

cappuccino or chardonnay

pureJersey10

THERE WAS A WAR ON, YOU KNOW

Its 70 years since Jersey was liberated from German Occupation during World War Two. Explorer, adventurer and founder of the

Scientific Exploration Society Colonel John Blashford-Snell returns to the island of his youth with grandsons Jack and Daniel

Matthews to rediscover and share memories of those times

book online at www.jersey.com 11

As a boy at Jerseys Victoria College I spent many hours exploring the defences, bunkers and bombproof tunnels built by the Germans to create a Fortress Island. As the son of a soldier they fascinated me, and together with my pals I lived in hope of finding a hidden cache of German guns. However, we had to content ourselves with rolling the odd landmine over the cliffs at Les Landes.

Little did I realise then that in 1962 I would be back in Jersey leading a team of Royal Engineers to survey the tunnels - the main one of which is now open to the public as the Jersey War Tunnels - and list their contents. Given access to the Jersey files and original German plans, our team found many little-known tunnels and a mass of rusting equipment. We also heard horrible stories of roof collapses and casualties amongst the poor labourers forced to build them.

In those days every effort was made to cover up these reminders of the five-year Occupation. Half a century on raw memories have mellowed. We can now look on them as legitimate parts of the islands heritage, and thanks to the efforts of the Channel Islands Occupation Society (CIOS) many bunkers and gun emplacements are being preserved and refurbished.

The lives of my grandsons, Jack and Daniel, revolve around sport, wildlife and military history, so I decided it was time they saw where I acquired my taste for adventure and brought them to the island. Thanks to Jersey Heritage we stayed in the refurbished Kempt Tower on St Ouens Bay. Built in 1834, the Martello tower was for defence against the French, but like the German fortifications of 194045, did not fire a shot in anger. Refitted, the Tower now provides very pleasant self-catering accommodation for up to 12 persons and was the perfect base from which to explore Jerseys many other fortifications.

Inside the Channel Islands Military Museum

Colonel John Blashford-Snell and grandsons outside the Jersey War Tunnels

Liberation Square

pureJersey12

Thanks to the CIOS there is much to see. But we called in first at the privately run Channel Islands Military Museum, just a stones throw from Kempt Tower. Housed in an old bunker, its packed with WW2 memorabilia and evocative tableaux that cover everything from Germanys iron-fisted rule to the sense of defeat that crept into the occupying forces when the war was coming to an end.

Corbire Strongpoint on Jerseys rocky south-western headland, is one of the CIOS sites open to the public on a regular basis. It consists of heavily constructed ferro-concrete bunkers with walls over six feet thick and massive armoured doors, used for the installation of an extraordinary automatic rapid-firing mortar plus a couple of powerful coastal guns. The automatic mortar could fire 120 rounds a minute. The Army describes a fast, loud talker as someone speaking like a belt-fed mortar. This formidable weapon might well be the origin of that description. Interestingly, the reconstruction of the bunkers interior has been aided by a German ex-soldier who served at the strongpoint and returned to tell his story to the CIOS in 1980.

The islands story of the Occupation from start to finish is told at the Jersey War Tunnels, in countryside a few miles from St Helier (separate from the CIOS, its Jerseys most visited attraction, open daily from March to November). When I first explored the tunnels as a schoolboy they were just bare, ill-lit concrete-lined shafts, furnished with a few iron beds. Now I was amazed by the detailed exhibitions and displays telling the compelling story of the Occupation and how the civilian population lived, enduring great hardship.

It is, quite literally, a journey through time, with a series of dramatically presented themed rooms and displays that take you from the pre-war Threatened Island to First Contact with German troops, then on to Daily Life for the islanders, their fear

of Whispers and Lies from collaborating neighbours through to the joyous Liberation on 9 May 1945. It is all the more atmospheric and authentic because of its setting at Ho8 (short for Hohlgangsanlage 8), an eerie catacomb of tunnels built as an underground barracks and ammunition store, but later converted to a hospital.

The Jersey War Tunnels leave nothing unsaid. Even the seamier features of life under the swastika are here with lists and photographs of a few locals who shamefully fraternised with the invaders before fleeing the island in disgrace at the end of the war. But I dont doubt some might have behaved like this on the mainland, had the Germans landed.

There are also lists of those who suffered deportation to concentration camps in Germany and brave individuals who escaped in small boats, sometimes carrying plans of the German defences.

Peering into some unfinished shafts brought back memories of our 1962 operation when we detected a strong smell in a tunnel. Fearing poison gas we got out quickly but then discovered that it came from rusting barrels of calcium carbide producing gas for underground lighting. Had anyone struck a match in there, I might not be writing this now!

the reconstruction of the bunkers interior has been aided by a German ex-soldier who served at the strongpoint

The bunkers at Corbire Strongpoint

book online at www.jersey.com 13

Evidence of Jerseys WW2 experiences crop up everywhere, sometimes in the most unlikely of places. St Heliers Maritime Museum, with its working models, is without doubt the finest maritime museum I have ever seen and can keep young people entranced for hours. It is also home to the Occupation Tapestry, a heroic piece of work that echoes the world-famous example at Bayeux, which took over 300 islanders 30,000 hours to complete.

Then there is the way that the islands two iconic castles were adapted to modern warfare. When you visit Mont Orgueil Castle and Elizabeth Castle today you can clearly see how they were modified with new fortifications during WW2.

Sailing away from Jersey on the Condor Ferry, Jack asked me what Hitlers impregnable Fortress Island achieved. It cost him over 10 per cent of the material allocated for the construction of his massive defensive Atlantic Wall and tied up over 20,000 soldiers and weapons that would have been invaluable to him in Normandy, I explained. In this way alone, Jersey played a valuable part in the final victory. The boy nodded thoughtfully. Will it happen again, Grandpa?

I wondered what would have happened if the Germans had invaded England As we came close to Jersey we could see the huge German defences and when we landed my first thought was that we were a bit cut off from the rest of the world. I noticed most streets had French names. At Kempt Tower huge waves were breaking over the sea wall. It looked very ghostly, but I loved it. I think it is now more comfortable than when the gunners lived there. The Maritime Museum was awesome with a great tapestry showing what happened in Jersey under Nazi occupation. There were lots of things to do and learn from. I got a good idea of life in Jersey under Nazi occupation from the amazing tapestry and wondered what would have happened if the Germans had invaded England.

In the Corbire bunker we saw how hungry German soldiers caught fish, lobsters and rabbits to eat and how they lived in this cold, damp gun position. I wondered how they washed. The bunker still has a smell. It could not have been much fun but at least they did not have to fight in the end. The Jersey War Tunnels had an awesome display on how they were dug by starving Russian prisoners and what living under German occupation was like. I m glad I was not in Jersey then.

Daniel Matthews, aged 11

See overleaf for more on Jerseys history and heritage and how the island will be celebrating the 70th anniversary of Liberation from German Occupation in 2015.q

Inside the Jersey War Tunnels

The Jersey War Tunnels were pretty amazing My trip to Jersey was a brilliant experience. We saw many interesting, historic places such as German bunkers, the War Tunnels and Mont Orgueil Castle. The German mortar bunker at Corbire was very interesting because you could see what had happened there. I was fascinated that the mortar could fire two shells a second, and the displays showed the cramped space in which the soldiers lived. The Jersey War Tunnels were pretty amazing and I really enjoyed looking at the unfinished parts of the system that showed what it would have been like to work in the dark, damp conditions. The video of the rock fall on the poor diggers was dramatic, reminding me of the dangers faced. Our visit to the Military Museum at St Ouens was especially interesting as Grandpa was able to describe many of the German weapons we saw.

jack Matthews, aged 14

John Blashford-Snells autobiography Something Lost

Behind the Ranges has recently been republished by the

Scientific Exploration Society. It tells many tales of

Jersey. Copies are available via www.ses-explore.org

LIBERTY AND HISTORY2015 marks the 70th anniversary of the Liberation of Jersey from Germanys five-year Occupation of the island during World War Two. Its one of many milestones in our history, a dramatic and traumatic episode that has left many reminders bunkers, tunnels, defences and other memorabilia of Hitlers ill-founded master plan to fortify the island. They are just some of countless bookmarks from the islands eventful story. Is there another patch of land measuring nine miles by five on the planet thats richer than Jersey when it comes to historic sights? If so, wed like to know. The island is studded with places to visit ranging from haunting prehistoric tombs to those gripping, dramatic reminders of WW2.

In between, there are medieval castles, museums and manor houses. And its all served up in an engaging way. Youll relive the WW2 Occupation at the unmissable Jersey War Tunnels experience. On a lighter note, mums, dads and kids will love exploring exciting Mont Orgueil Castle and singing along to sea shanties at the Maritime Museum..

Timeline

14 pureJersey

J E R S E Y F I L E

6,000 years ago. La Hougue Bie is Jerseys Stonehenge. One of Europes finest passage graves burrows into a huge man-made mound, topped by a medieval chapel. Stoop down and enter the long, gloomy tunnel which has been cleverly

aligned to allow the suns rays to penetrate the inner chamber at spring and autumn equinoxes.

The island is dotted with many other prehistoric graves and tombs that you can visit at all reasonable times. For details go to:www.jerseyheritage.org / www.prehistoricjersey.net

The passage chamber is almost 19m/62ft long.

Over 2,000 years ago. The worlds largest hoard of Celtic coins has recently been discovered in Jersey. It contains around 70,000 silver and copper coins used by the Celtic tribe known as the Coriosolites. Fused together after all these years buried underground, this amazing hoard is slowly and meticulously being dismantled at Jersey Museum, where its the subject of a new exhibition. There is also a display at La Hougue Bie.www.jerseyheritage.org

There are around 70,000 coins and were still counting.

13th century. Thats when they started building Mont Orgueil Castle, a Jersey icon. Its presence is overpowering, completely dominating the harbourside at Gorey as it climbs up the sea cliff in a series of giant

fortified terraces. Within, imaginative and sometimes ghoulish displays and exhibitions evoke the castles past.

Thank you, Sir Walter. Raleigh saved Mont Orgueil from demolition.

Samars Manor also dates from Norman times, but like many historic houses evolved over the centuries. Take a guided tour, visit the ancient dovecote and Rural Life and Carriage Museum, or wander around its beautiful grounds and gardens.

14th century. Go to the mysterious ruins of Grosnez Castle and ponder its fate. Pack a camera, for Grosnez on a windy headland overlooking Guernsey is worth visiting for its breathtaking location alone.

3 April11 May: Channel Islands Heritage Festival 9 May 2015 marks the 70th anniversary of our liberation from Occupying Forces during World War Two. Join us to celebrate a very

special occasion that reflects the true spirit of the island. Liberation Day on Saturday 9th is the centrepiece of a festival that includes heritage trails, access to bunkers and fortifications, re-enactments and other celebrations.

www.jersey.com/liberation

Tracing the pastSocit Jersiaise promotes and encourages the study of the history, archaeology, natural history, language and many other subjects of interest in Jersey (T 01534 758314, www.societe-jersiaise.org). The Channel Islands Family History Society is dedicated to studying and tracing the family histories of Channel Islanders (www.jerseyfamilyhistory.org).

For the recordThe Channel Islands Military Museum, St OuenOpen AprilOctober.T 01534 483205 or 07797 732072www.germanww2militaria.co.uk

Elizabeth Castle, St HelierOpen daily MarchNovember. T 01534 723971www.jerseyheritage.org

Georgian House, 16 New Street, St HelierOpen MarchNovember. T 01534 483193www.nationaltrust.je

Grve de Lecq Barracks, St MaryOpen WednesdaySunday MaySeptember. T 01534 483193www.nationaltrust.je

Grosnez Castle, St OuenAccessible at all reasonable times.

Hamptonne Country Life Museum, St LawrenceOpen daily MaySeptember.T 01534 863955www.jerseyheritage.org

La Hougue Bie, GrouvilleOpen daily MarchNovember.T 01534 853823www.jerseyheritage.org

Jersey Museum and Art Gallery, St HelierOpen Saturdays Januarylate March, daily late March onwards.T 01534 633300www.jerseyheritage.org

Jersey War Tunnels, St LawrenceOpen MarchNovember.T 01534 860808www.jerseywartunnels.com

The Mansell Collection, St HelierOpen all year (closed Sundays).T 01534 880606www.themansellcollection.co.uk

Maritime Museum and Occupation Tapestry, St HelierOpen Sundays Januarylate March, daily late MarchNovember.T 01534 811043www.jerseyheritage.org

Mont Orgueil Castle, GoreyOpen FridaysMondays Januarylate March, daily late MarchNovember.T 01534 853292www.jerseyheritage.org

Le Moulin de Qutivel, St PeterOpen Saturdays MaySeptember. T 01534 483193www.nationaltrust.je

Pallot Steam, Motor and General Museum, TrinityOpen daily (except Sundays) AprilOctober. T 01534 865307www.pallotmuseum.co.uk

Samars Manor, St ClementOpen AprilOctober.T 01534 870551www.samaresmanor.com

15

15th century. Buildings have been recorded at Hamptonne since 1445. Its a complete rural community in miniature a cluster of farm dwellings, barns and workshops that recreate a vanished way of life from Jerseys bygone times.

Learn all about Jerseys tradition of cider making at Hamptonne.

Late 16th century. Thats just the first chapter in Elizabeth Castles long story. Begun in 1590, this huge offshore fortress only when you get there do you realise its that big spans island history from Sir Walter Raleigh to the German Occupation. At high tide, the short trip by amphibious craft from St Helier is great fun (when the tide is out you can walk).

An earlier inhabitant? St Helier is said to have lived on this rocky islet in 550AD.

18th/19th centuries. Step back centuries to see how the gentry lived lived at the meticulously restored and furnished Georgian House in St Helier, built around 1730. Just out of town, Le Moulin de Qutivel is the only working mill left in St Peters Valley that still grinds its own flour. Buy some at the mill shop, then see the exhibition and short film. Just above the beach at Grve de Lecq visit Jerseys only surviving barracks, built around 200 years ago for troops garrisoned to combat the threat of

Napoleonic invasion.

You can stay at Grve de Lecqs Officers Quarters.

193945. Jerseys compelling World War Two history crops up everywhere, in coastal fortifications and museums, but most forcefully at the Jersey War Tunnels. This must-visit site is an atmospheric underground world that evokes the German Occupation and all it entailed the human as well as the military story, the everyday struggles of island folk as well as Hitlers grandiose folly in creating a 'Fortress Island.

The Channel Islands Military Museum is also housed in a former fortified German bunker. Its Jerseys only display of all-authentic German World War Two militaria plus civilian Occupation items.

The Channel Islands Occupation Society is a volunteer organisation dedicated to keeping key sites from Jerseys Occupation (like the impressive Noirmont Command Bunker between St Aubin and St Brelade) open to the public throughout the warmer months. www.ciosjersey.org.uk

Museums tooThe islands history, traditions and culture come together under one roof at Jersey Museum and Art Gallery. Exhibits range from the priceless pure gold 3,000-year-old St Helier Torque to an atmospheric Victorian merchants house. There is also an interactive space for young visitors.

Jerseys seafaring past comes to life in St Heliers hugely entertaining Maritime Museum. Listen to sea shanties, sail a boat, walk the decks, plot your voyage around the world, shiver your timbers. It also contains the Occupation Tapestry, a monumental and moving work of art based on World War Two island life.

The Pallot Steam, Motor and General Museum is a fascinating private collection of steam engines and other machinery, with a display on Jersey Railways, steam and diesel train rides.

Motorsport fans wont want to miss the recently opened Mansell Collection. Videos, trophies and racing cars celebrate Jersey resident Nigel Mansells heroic motor racing career and Formula One World Championship.

Follow the Occupation Trail

Our Occupation Trail map and booklet features 50 sites, scattered across the island, constructed during World War Two to create Hitlers Fortress Jersey. Priced 2.50, its available from Jersey Tourism.

Over 1km of chambers were dug at the War Tunnels by forced and slave labour.

Georgian House

Cider is still made at Hamptonne

Living history at the castle

16

OH I DO LIKE TO BE BESIDE THE

Jerseys beach and coastal cafs certainly do. Theyre an island

icon, and come in all shapes and sizes, from cheeky little

kiosks to cool surfing cantinas. Roger Thomas and his wife Liz take a caf crawl around the island to

find out what makes them tick

You hear a lot about fine dining in Jersey. Its an affluent island with more than its fair share of Michelin stars, AA rosettes and celebrity chefs. But they are just the pinnacle of a big foodie pyramid that tastes good from

top to bottom.

Further down the food chain there are chic bistros and harbour restaurants buzzing with joie de vivre. Then come the beach cafs, dotted all around the coast. Theyre on the promenade between St Helier and St Aubin, serving joggers, cyclists, office workers and dog walkers. Head

out to Jerseys wild west or rugged north coasts and youll find them there too, perched on rocky promontories or fishing harbours. Locals make a point of visiting these on weekends or days off, arguing over which one serves the

best crab sandwich or juicy burger.

Here are a few of our favourites from north, south, east and west.

Peachy beach view from Colleens

book online at www.jersey.com 17ColleenS

Parked on th

e SHELF INSID

E

B ay wat c h i n g u p n o r t hWhere? Plmont Bay Caf. T 01534 482005.

Why go? Shh, its a little bit secret. Its a local favourite, something that applies to the location as well as the caf itself. Plmont Bay isnt the easiest place to get to. Tucked away amongst cliffs, its accessible by a narrow road or lots of steps from a clifftop car park. But its worth making the effort. The beach is gorgeous, and the caf is full of maritime zest and colour, with fishy artefacts and sea-blue dcor. Its run by hands-on Paul Baxter, who sums up Jerseys beach caf culture nicely. All our cafs are worth their salt, he says magnanimously. They have to be, for islanders like to make the most of their surroundings.

Whats on the menu? I had what was possibly the best burger Ive ever tasted. Epitomising the Genuine Jersey ethos, the scheme that promotes local produce, it was made of 100% best Jersey beef from the farm next door (okay, it was actually on top of the cliff). Other items on the menu include Jersey crab cakes, traditional fish and chips, sandwiches, wraps, ciabattas, waffles and a dizzying range of breakfast choices (breakfasts are big favourites with islanders does anyone cook at home?).

What to do after youve eaten. Explore the beach, of course. There are rock pools and sea-caves too, and spooky boulders that look like giant marbles.

Top tip. Check the tides. When its in it laps up to the base of the caf, submerging the

entire beach.

Whats cooking elsewhere? Hop over the headland to Grve de Lecq, another picturesque sandy bay that, unlike Plmont, is easily accessible. Colleens is a bright and airy New England-style clapperboard caf on the harbour. Specials can include mackerel fillets, while the extensive menu features everything from seasonal salads to paninis.

Alfesco at Plmont Bay

18 pureJersey

t For more information on coastal cafs see Jersey Tourisms free

leaflet on the subject. And for more on the islands food scene see the Jerseyfile on

pages 5657.

Sea-fresh

seafood

THE 'SAND MAN'

EL TICO

A f e w b e s t w e s t e r n sWhere? El Tico, St Ouens Bay. T 01534 482009, www.elticojersey.com

Why go? If you like your beach cafs sleek and shiny, hip and happening, then El Tico is for you. Actually, its called a beach cantina, not a caf. It certainly looks the part. The low-slung art deco building, painted dazzling adobe white, overlooks St Ouens massive beach. Inside, its bright and luminous, with surfboards hanging from the ceiling along with globe lights that might have been rescued from a Left Bank Parisian caf. Smiling staff scurry about serving a mixed crowd millionaire financiers doing deals on their mobiles, happy families, ladies who lunch and surfing dudes.

Whats on the menu? Its a bit different to the Gunsight or Breakwater cafs (see opposite). Breakfasts include coconut porridge, maple crunch, French cinnamon toast and cantina Mexican eggs (along with the full English Monty for die-hards). The menu, like the place itself, is inventive and well thought out. We shared two dishes a whopping prawn cocktail and Cajun spiced crab and prawn club sandwich. But we could have chosen anything from smoked haddock and potato chowder to gourmet burgers, local moules and lobster to crab linguine.

What to do after youve eaten. Surfing is Jerseys national sport, and St Ouens its spiritual home. So hire a wetsuit and surfboard from Laneez Surf Centre next door and head off into the blue yonder.

Top tip. You can have surfing and

bodyboarding lessons too to get you started, at a number of centres dotted along the bay.

Whats cooking elsewhere? Its pushing things to call it a caf, but its one of my favourites. Faulkner Fisheries at the top end of St Ouens supplies many of the islands best hotels and restaurants. It also runs an alfresco eatery from April to October. You sit on wooden tables scattered haphazardly around a rocky headland, walk into the fishery to place your order, and eat amazing seafood at amazingly reasonable prices. Try the seafood soup de jour, grilled lobster, oysters, mussels or crabmeat cocktail, with ingredients all plucked fresh from the sea.

Why go? Its the new kid on the block. Slice and Scoop proves that things move on and evolve, even with tried-and-tested beach cafs. This tiny kiosk it really is minuscule specialises in pizzas and ice cream. But not just any old pizzas and ice cream. The former are wafer-thin, proper Italian jobs, not deep-pan obese American. And the ice cream is homemade and heavenly.

Whats on the menu? As well as those slices and scoops they also serve paninis, tartes flambes, salads and (of course) breakfast rolls. All hot food comes without fuss on paper plates with disposable wooden forks that snap in two as soon as you start to use them so use your hands instead. I had the capricciosa pizza with goats cheese while Liz went for the pizza al prosciutto with an avocado side

salad. But best of all were the sensational ice creams, almost chewy and granular in texture instead of the sloppy Mr Whippy-style stuff thats so common nowadays. And they were bursting with flavour.

What to do after youve eaten. Walk (or cycle see below) along the promenade that curves around St Aubins Bay.

Top tip. Hire a bike in St Helier and ride along the seafront cyclepath to St Aubins Harbour

(its about three miles), stopping at Slice and

Scoop on the way.

Whats cooking elsewhere? I dont think goats cheese has ever seen the inside of the Gunsight Caf further along the bay. Its another Jersey legend, probably because the menu is legendary too in the sense that little has changed over the years. This old school, honest-to-goodness caf proudly serves everything from sandwiches to bacon and eggs, fish and chips to black pudding (an extra at 85p). And, whisper it, salads and veggie breakfasts too. Its always busy and has been here since 1949, so it must be doing something right.

S o u t h c o a s t i n g

book online at www.jersey.com 19

SLICE AND SCOOP

Where? Slice and Scoop, on the promenade along St Aubins Bay about a mile west of St Helier. T 07700 788700, www.sliceandscoop.co.uk

T H E N E A R E A S TWhere? The Breakwater Caf, St Catherines Breakwater. T 01534 851141.

Why go? It has been here forever well, 50 or 60 years and only closes on Christmas Day. Locals love the place for its unashamedly old-fashioned English food. We liked the views too. Grab a table in the sleek new canopied area where you can dine alfresco in sunny weather and gaze out across a huge, open bay framed by the breakwater pier on one side and Mont Orgueil Castle, perched on its sea cliff, on the other. You know what youre going to get in this homely, unpretentious caf which might explain why half the people eating here were on first-name terms with the staff.

Whats on the menu? We went all crustacean. Mine was a crab salad heaped with succulent meat while Liz had a more modest crab sandwich served with a salad garnish. But we could have had cheese or ham toasties, bacon and egg or BLT rolls, burgers, sausages and mash and of course that Jersey caf classic, the all-day breakfast. Please be patient, says the menu, its not about how fast we can deliver your food to the table, but how tasty it is.

What to do after youve eaten. Thats easy. Walk it off with a stroll along St Catherines Breakwater. It may take longer

than you think its around three-quarters of a mile there and back. The breakwater, a popular fishing spot, represents unfinished business. It was built in the mid-19th century as part of a grandiose plan, never completed, to construct a massive naval station.

Top tip. Call in and see Simon Smith, the sand man, just down the road. His elaborate

sand sculptures hes a former world champion

take him 50 days to create each year.

Whats cooking elsewhere? The Hungry Man at Rozel Harbour is possibly Jerseys most famous coastal caf. A legend in its own lunchtime, locals drive across-island for its daunting Hungry Man Special (simply described as The Works!) and even more formidable Double-Decker Health Wrecker (double bacon and double cheeseburger). Personally, I prefer their quite fabulous crab sandwiches and a nice mug of tea (90p).

THE HUNGRY MAN

GUNSITE CAF

Above and top: Breakwater Caf

Stoppress:Slice and Scoop a

re

moving in 2015. Please

check website.

20 pureJersey

It was fantastic: salty splashes, straggly hair and a ridiculous grin

EASTERN PROMISE

When it comes to watersports, Jerseys west coast a surfing superstar attracts all the limelight. But theres a lot

happening on the water out east too, as intrepid action

girl, travel writer and television presenter Karen Bowerman and friend Fiona

Appleyard-Dyer discover

This, our instructor Geoff said, is our arena! We stood on a stretch of seemingly endless beach, overlooked by a sprawling, clifftop castle. Fiona and I were at the Royal Bay of Grouville on Jerseys east coast. Wed come for an activity break, the short flight from Gatwick giving us plenty of time to pack everything in.

First up, water skiing although the sea, it seemed, had other ideas. To be honest, Geoff said, its a little bit rough today. Right on cue, thousands of white-tipped waves appeared to rear their heads in the bay. Geoff suggested we head further up the bay to Gorey where it would be more sheltered. Thats the beauty of Jersey, he added, as we piled into our cars. If conditions arent right on one beach, its never far to get to another.

That morning, as I lay in my incredibly cosy bed in our yurt at Beuvelande Campsite in St Martin (more on that later), I couldnt help feeling a bit apprehensive. How do you learn to water ski exactly? I had visions of clinging

Water skiing at Gorey, overlooked by Mont Orgueil Castle

book online at www.jersey.com 21

to a rope, at the back of a boat, with my instructor a dot in the distance. But then, I hadnt been aware of The Pole the training bar attached to the side of Geoffs speedboat. His company, the Jersey Sea Sport Centre, is the only one on the island that has this.

The minute I saw it, it filled me with confidence. All I had to do (Geoffs words, not mine) was slip into the sea, bring my knees up to my chest, hold on tight (arms braced) and let the pole do the rest.

Its easy! he said (he always had a word of encouragement), just shout Hit it! when youre ready to go.

Hit it? No and go sound too similar, and I dont want to shoot off without you. Hit it! suddenly sounded fine.

Geoff revved the speedboat; Fiona, sitting next to him, got out the camera and smirked. Remarkably, I rose straight out of the water. It was fantastic: salty splashes,

straggly hair and a ridiculous grin, then off popped a ski and I was down. But and this, to me, was the biggest advantage of water skiing over snow skiing the waves cushioned my fall. Even my wayward ski had the courtesy to float close by

While the swell made water skiing challenging, it was just what we needed for our next bout of aquatic action. We drove north, past sandy coves and pastel-coloured houses, to St Catherines Bay and its huge breakwater, over one-quarter of a mile long. The French Lieutenants Woman would really need to have been fuelled by love to hike all the way out here in a storm.

We were there to meet Richard and Tom from Jersey Seafaris to explore the east and north of the island in a RIB (rigid inflatable boat). Its an adrenalin-fuelled, scenic ride, Richard said, when I asked whether it was all about speed. In fact, it was the perfect combination. At times, as we pounded through the waves, music blaring and splattered with spray, I was convinced wed displaced half the ocean.

KAREN BOWERMAN

22 pureJersey

But then, to change the tempo, wed float gently along the shore, past lobster pots and gannet-cluttered rocks, chugging into caves and admiring cliffs, as Richard recounted old tales dreamt up by smugglers to keep villagers at bay.

There was once a black dog, he said, as we rose and fell with the waves. It used to roam the cliffs at Bouley Bay after breaking free from its chain. It was a massive beast. The slightest mention of it sent locals hurrying back to their homes which was good news for the smugglers.

The RIB ride over, we returned, in a more leisurely fashion, to the north-east coast for a cup of tea at The Hungry Man kiosk at Rozel. Richard had recommended it though largely for its Jersey beef burgers, said to be the perfect hangover cure.

Then, as a sizzling September sun sunk out of the sky, we had supper at the Crab Shack, a small restaurant on a hill overlooking Gorey Harbour. We ordered crab on bruschetta with lentils, and local scallops smothered in garlic. The atmosphere was akin to a trendy, Thames-side pub.

That night, the solar lights at the hobbit door of our yurt welcomed us home. Inside, the burners flickering log-effect fire gave the tent a rosy glow. But the brightest light came from the full moon which flooded through the circular window in the pointed, canvas roof, throwing patterns on the rush mat floor.The yurt, with its colourful curtains and bright cushions, had the feel of a hippy Big Top. There was plenty of space, real beds, a gas stove, a fridge for holiday beers, electricity (for the iPad or straighteners) oh, and free Jersey fudge (and free Wi-Fi). As the wind whooshed outside, I fell asleep feeling incredibly toasty. I awoke to cawing crows and another day of sunshine.

Jersey has one of the worlds largest tide variations, and our visit happened to fall on one of the few days a year when the tides are extreme and the island famously doubles in size, albeit temporarily. It prompted Derek from Jersey Kayak and Walk Adventures to suggest a day of paddling and hiking, with the chance to experience, first hand, how the island changes with the tide: in the morning, wed kayak along the coast, in the afternoon wed walk the same route.

We splashed through gullies, cut across sandbanks and clambered over rocks which that morning had been 40ft underwater

RIB riding

An underwater world revealed at low tide

We set off from La Rocque Harbour on the islands south-eastern tip and headed west to Green Island beach. Derek dubbed it the Nosey Paddle as we passed millionaires mansions right on the water, surrounded by fields and dunes. He pointed out oyster catchers and egrets, the Witches Rock, said to have an imprint of the hooves of the devil (those smugglers got everywhere), and told us all sorts of things I never knew about seaweed. Did you know that a frond of egg wrack can live for 15 years? We counted the air bladders to check (its one per year); theres no disguising your age in weed land.

The sea was already dropping at a phenomenal three inches a minute when we began our tidal walk a few hours later. Its like a plugs being pulled out of the ocean, Derek said, as retreating water rippled around our feet. It was fascinating to see, in such detail, what the ocean was leaving behind: burrowing razor shells spurting water like mini-fountains, pink-tipped anemones, scallops, periwinkles and crabs.

We splashed through gullies, cut across sandbanks and clambered over rocks which that morning had been 40ft underwater. Our walk took us to two towers, Icho and Seymour, fortifications built more than a mile offshore to defend the island from the French.

Then, three hours later, as shrimp fishermen began returning to the jetty on the mainland, Derek suggested we too should head back. Never ignore the drumbeat of the tides, he said. The other thing you shouldnt ignore, I thought, is a celebratory drink.

After an action-packed few days, I felt Fiona and I deserved it. We abandoned showers in favour of that wild, windswept look (Im told its very now) and went in search of a few (generous) glasses of wine. We found them (and more delicious seafood) at Gorey. What with the harbour lights, the clanking boats and the balmy evening, it felt as if we were abroad.

We toasted Jersey and the calories we felt sure we had lost. Then, grabbing a menu and spotting the wine list, we decided to put them back on.

The yurt had the feel of a hippy Big Top

23

When Karen invited me on an active break, I didnt expect her to say we were going to Jersey. But it proved an ideal choice for a few days away. We took an early flight from Gatwick, picked up a hire car and were heading to the campsite by mid-morning. Everything was so quick and easy.

I was surprised by how many adventure sports were on offer. I loved paddling along the coast, taking in the scenery and birdlife. The RIB ride was also more exciting than those Id done elsewhere, since we explored cliffs and caves and didnt just race across the sea.

We were based on the east of the island a good choice, for one minute we were in the countryside and the next beside the sea. And Gorey Harbour has some great restaurants. In fact, I enjoyed Jersey so much Im planning to return with my husband and young daughter next summer.

Fiona Appleyard-Dyer

FIONAS ISLAND INTERLUDE

See overleaf for more on watersports in Jersey. q

GIVE US A WAVE

24 pureJersey

If you know Jersey it comes as no surprise that the island is home to a complete alphabet of outdoor activities that runs from A to Z since you ask, thats

archery, abseiling and aero adventures all the way to zorbing and zip wire riding. Weve dedicated the next few pages to what you can get up to on water and lands. For the full picture go to: www.jersey.com/active

J E R S E Y F I L E

Wet, wet, wetKaren Bowermans aqua adventures, described on the previous pages, are just the start of it. She dipped her toe into an island activities scene thats much bigger than you might think. Her camping accommodation was more cosseting and comfy than you may think too she stayed at a luxury yurt near the east coast at:Beuvelande Campsite, St MartinT 01534 853575 www.campingjersey.com

Her activities were provided by:Jersey Sea Sport Centre T 07797 738180, www.jerseyseasport.com

Jersey SeafarisT 07829 772222, www.jerseyseafaris.com

Jersey Kayak Adventures and Jersey Walk AdventuresT 07797 853033www.jerseykayakadventures.co.ukwww.jerseywalkadventures.co.uk

The seas the limitSaltwater runs through our veins. The sea is never more than a few miles away in Jersey, giving us a head start when it comes to sailing and watersports. And water meets land along a hugely varied coastline that includes big surfing beaches and intimate rock-bound coves, clear diving waters and gently shelving sands. Whats more, were an island with a rich maritime heritage the people of Jersey love the sea, and like to share their passion with visiting enthusiasts.

Here are some of the things you can get up to on and beneath those Jersey waves.

Beach boys (and girls). Surfing is big time in Jersey. Its easy to become part of the local scene

when you head out west to the big beach and big surf along St Ouens Bay. Other hot spots include Plmont and Grve de Lecq. Theres a surfeit of expertise too were home to one of the worlds oldest surfing clubs, and surf schools, board hire and advice are all plentiful.

Paddle power. Go kayaking to hidden coves and rocky foreshores where bigger boats cant

go. Were a world-class sea kayaking destination, with clear, wildlife-rich waters, alluring reefs, coastal hideaways and remote sea-caves. Were also big on paddleboarding, the latest must-do in the world of watersports.

By boat. Experience Jersey the best way the way that locals know it. Were talking about boat trips, cruises

and charters. Cruise around the bay, go fishing, watch dolphins and seals, snorkel off idyllic offshore reefs, try your hand at sailing or sip champagne while your friendly skipper takes care of everything.

Plain sailing? Theres no such thing here. Our coastal waters and scenery are very special. Add a thriving

maritime culture to the nautical mix and visiting beginners know theyll be looked after by experts, while experienced sailors can enjoy superb facilities at our marinas, harbours and slipways.

Contact the expertsFor full details of activity operators in Jersey who they are, what they offer go to: www.jersey.com/active

Wind power. Use the wind, take to the water. Windsurfing combines the thrills of surfing with

the tranquillity of sailing, all against the backdrop of a beautiful Jersey coastline.

Wake up to wakeboarding, which is like snowboarding on water. Get up to all kinds of tricks as youre

pulled through the waves by a speedboat. Its no more difficult than riding a bike. Those who stick to two skis for their wintersports might prefer waterskis again, the learning curve is fast in the hands of our experienced operators.

Skimming the surface. Enjoy fun on an inflatable as youre pulled behind a speedboat (our

donut and banana rides are fast, furious and famous). Pilot your own jetski theyre not difficult to handle and are guaranteed to put a big smile on your face. Or sit back and enjoy a speedboat trip around the bay.

Buried treasure. Jersey also looks good underwater. Those clear seas are alive with marine life, much

of it now internationally recognised and protected. There are reefs and shipwrecks too which all add up to sensational scuba diving, especially along the rugged north coast at places like Bouley Bay, Bonne Nuit, Rozel Bay and St Catherines Breakwater. Our dive operators welcome beginners and experts.

Dishy fishing. Theres superb shoreline fishing from rocks, breakwaters and harbours for black bream,

mullet, bass, wrasse and conger. Or head out by boat into the shallows, gullies and great blue yonder on a fishing trip for bass, rays, tope, turbot and brill. For freshwater anglers theres good reservoir fly-fishing for trout as well as coarse fishing.

A foot in both camps. The crazy sport of coasteering involves cliff climbing and

splashing around in the sea for more details see the following Jerseyfile featuring land-based activities.

book online at www.jersey.com 25

ACTIVEALL YEAR ROUND

Swim in our crystal clear

seas in August they reach 17 C/61 F

Explore hidden coves by kayak and watch the

wildlife

Nows the time to fish for large pollack and cod

tSee overleaf for land-based activities.

SPRING

SUMMER

AUTUMN

WINTER

Surfs up catch big Atlantic waves

at west-facing St Ouens

ALL GO

26 pureJersey

On these pages we take a look at the things you can get up to on dry land (and up in the air) in Jersey. Youll need to bring plenty of energy. Jerseys outdoor scene is full of activity and adrenaline. Go go-karting, abseiling or sky diving. Play golf or try blokarting on our big beaches its an island speciality. Heres a sample. For the full picture go to: www.jersey.com/active

J E R S E Y F I L E

Blo what? Youve not heard of blokarting? Then come to Jersey, where its big time on our big beaches. A blokart is a wind-powered go-kart that propels you along at up to 55mph. Its something everyone can try it only takes 10 minutes or so to grasp the basics. For a variation on the theme theres also X-sailing.

Green and scenic. Its not just the greens and fairways, but the views too. Golf in Jersey is highly scenic. We have headland and country courses, 18-hole championship challenges and friendly nine-holers, American-style parkland courses and driving ranges. And our famously sunny climate makes the golf even more enjoyable.

Go geocaching. Its catching on in a big way. Geocaching is high-tech treasure hunting using GPS equipment (all is explained on www.geocaching.com). There are over 100 caches hidden in Jersey its a fun, family-friendly way of getting out and about.

High times. Abseiling and rock climbing are popular adventure sports here. Our granite cliffs are just great for climbing and to cool down when its all over, take a dip in the sea. Best of all, combine the two cliff climbing and splashing around in the waves on a coasteering adventure.

Up, up and away. Loop the loop, fly across to France, take a trial flying lesson or skydive from 10,000ft/3,000m for the ultimate adrenaline rush. Jersey Aero Club and activity operators will have you reaching for and parachuting through the skies.

You name it you can go do it in Jersey. We offer everything from high ropes and zip wire excitement to paintballing and orienteering, go-karting and raftmaking to shooting, zorbing and multi-activity days out. Its all on our website:www.jersey.com/active

Contact the expertsFor full details of activity operators

in Jersey who they are, what they

offer go to: www.jersey.com/active

twitter.com/jerseytourismfacebook.com/visitjersey

youtube.com/jerseytourismflickr.com/jerseytourism

For all the latest

Big beach + blokarting = big thrills. Go faster (55m

ph) on sand than on our roads

Wrap up

and tee off at one of our scenic golf courses

Go cy

cling in our Green Lanes when theyre tu

rning

red, yellow

and gold see pages 3

641

for m

ore information

A C T I V EA L L Y E A R R O U ND

RugbyJersey and the game of rugby go back a long way. Jersey Rugby Football Club is one of the oldest, dating back to the 1870s. Its also highly successful, having enjoyed a meteoric rise through the English ranks to the professional Greene King IPA/RFU Championship and British and Irish Cup. Home games attract big crowds from locals and supporters of visiting teams, especially since many have easy access to direct flights to Jersey. And more and more enthusiasts are coming not just to watch great rugby at JRFCs home ground near the airport but to enjoy a weekend away or longer break on the island. For more details, including fixtures and accommodation packages go to: www.jersey.com/rugby

book online at www.jersey.com 27

t Two wheels, two feet

Find out why Jersey was made for cycling

and walking on pages 3641.

SPRI

NG

WIN

TER

AUTUMN

SUMMER

competitors from 24 islands around the world (see pag

es 485

1)

Its Island Games time, an action-packed sporting eve

nt featu

ring

28 pureJersey

The displays in the Peoples Park take you back to bygone eras with a range of beautifully preserved machinery up to 80 years old

ROBERT COULDWELL

book online at www.jersey.com 29

Jersey is closer to France than Britain in many ways. Like its near-neighbour, its very

fond of ftes. Festivals of all kinds are thick on the ground, taking in everything

from flowers to fast cars. The Jersey International Festival of Motoring is just one of many island celebrations. Motoring

writer Robert Couldwell takes a look

Any doubts I might have had about Jerseys love affair with cars were dispelled half a mile from the airport where theres the biggest Porsche dealer Ive ever seen. It does initially seem strange that on a small island with a maximum speed limit of 40mph Porsches, Aston Martins, Bentleys and Mercedes are a common sight. A Mini or Smart would surely make much more sense.

But when it comes to cars the heart overrules the head in Jersey, just like elsewhere. They even have an International Festival of Motoring in June each year. I travelled to the island with my wife who isnt interested in modern cars, but likes

classics and was aware of the many alternative attractions Jersey has to offer.

Most motoring events I take her to are on racing circuits like Goodwood, Donington and Silverstone, in the middle of nowhere where her attention span is soon exhausted. The Jersey International Festival of Motoring, on the other hand, is held in the vibrant capital of St Helier, so while I watched sports cars tear up the hill (no 40mph speed limit) or pored over countless fabulous classic cars owned by enthusiastic islanders and Festival visitors, she wandered down to the beach then indulged in some serious retail therapy in St Heliers attractive shopping centre.

It all kicks off with a Moonlight Sprint on the seafront, an event that has a unique atmosphere. The displays in the Peoples Park take you back to bygone eras with a range of beautifully preserved machinery up to 80 years old. Some are priceless and exotic like long-time resident Paul Roberts pair of rally-winning Austin Healeys, one of which, URX 727, is the most famous of all having won the 1960 Lige-Rome-Lige rally driven by the late Pat Moss. Navigated by Ann Wisdom, the rally involved 96 hours of near-continuous driving over the worst roads in Europe, in some of the most taxing weather conditions. Its still regarded as the greatest drive by an all-female crew in the history of rallying.

Others are more prosaic but still evocative like Morris Minors and Oxfords, a Hillman van and a cute little Fiat Topolino as well as wonderful examples of motorcycles through the decades. Its marvellous to see these pieces of history preserved despite the costs of restoration often exceeding their sale value. As I mentioned earlier, who said that cars make sense?

And heres another reason to visit. The Festival along with many others in Jersey, including the International Air Display, seasonal Walking Festivals and Christmas-based Fte de Nou is absolutely free. It doesnt cost a penny to wander around the cars, motorbikes and karts, or stand very close to the high-speed runs along the seafront, hill climbs and Victoria Park. Take it from me as an old hand in these matters, theres nothing quite like this Festival on the UK mainland where events are much more corporate with little proper access for the general public, despite horrendous ticket prices. Little wonder that it attracts spectators and competitors from not just the Channel Islands but the UK mainland too.

Jerseys love affair with the car goes back a long way. Outside the busy capital the country roads are quiet and scenic, and along

the islands north coast (St Helier is in the south) traffic can be blissfully light. We took time out to pay homage to the seriously challenging, wonderfully scenic road at Bouley Bay, used as long ago as 1921 for hill climbs. As we drove down to the sea we found it hard to believe that cars reach 90mph inches away from such large trees.

If you are a car or racing enthusiast there are more than 60 events a year on Jersey, most of which are held in areas of stunning scenery like sand racing along the wide, open spaces of St Brelades Bay, St Ouens Bay and Millbrook in St Aubins Bay, all places where the family can relax and play on the beach between the racing.

The island also hosts another major motorsport event, the Festival of Speed, with sprints along the front at St Ouens and two days of hill climbing at another renowned hill, Grve de Lecq. If flowers and vineyards are more your thing, nearby are the enchanting Judith Qures Garden and the award-winning La Mare Wine Estate with its archetypal 18th-century farmhouse, acres of vines and a shop selling products created locally.

You can watch karting and motocross at Sorel Point, the islands most northerly promontory with fantastic views to the Normandy coast, then follow spectacular coastal footpaths. In fact there are miles of fabulous walks all around the coast and in leafy countryside.

If you want to cover the ground a little quicker you can take to Jerseys traffic-calmed Green Lanes (maximum speed 15mph) on extensive cycling routes. You may even spot resident motor racing champion Nigel Mansell and his sons. They are keen cyclists (you may even bump into them at St Heliers fascinating Mansell Collection, the recently opened visitor centre covering the story of Nigels racing career).

30 pureJersey

2015 Jersey International Festival of Motoring will be held 47 June www.jimf.je

The

Classic action at the Festival

book online at www.jersey.com 31

Hire a classic or vintage car and discover or rediscover the joys of motoring. Jerseys peaceful country lanes and unhurried traffic are perfect for this nostalgic style of motoring. Jersey Classic Hire has an enticing fleet of vehicles, including the famous Austin Healey Frogeye Sprite, Triumph TR6, Austin Swallow and endearing Citroen 2CV. Classic VW Campervans are also available. These specialist hire companies are linked to Le Riche, a long-established classic car restoration and sales business based in Jersey.

www.jerseyclassichire.comwww.jerseycamperhire.comwww.leriche.com

A classic way to enjoy Jersey

And make a date in your diary for the NatWest Island Games XVI, a major biennial international sporting event that comes to Jersey in 2015. See overleaf for more details. q

2015 Jersey International Festival of Motoring will be held 47 June www.jimf.je

The

Nigel Mansell with son Leo at The Mansell Collection

Austin Healey 3000, a 1960s motoring icon

A Silver Shadow from Somerset

I stood in awe in front of the most exquisite Rolls Royce, a 1967 Silver Shadow II that looked as new, thanks to just one fastidious owner until 2007 when it was purchased by regular Jersey visitors Pat and Colin Heal. Colin, from Somerset, who first visited Jersey 40 years ago, has been enthusiastically exhibiting at the Festival for the last three years.

Island rescue

This 1960s Sunbeam Rapier Mk IV caught my attention, not only due to its immaculate condition but also because I nearly bought one when I was 18 but my father, probably sensibly, wouldnt guarantee the hire

purchase. When Jersey resident Martyn Michel bought the car in Northampton five years ago it wasnt in great shape. After spending the next 3 years restoring it to a very high standard it was passed as fit for Jersey registration, a testament to the workmanship.

34 pureJersey

REACHING OUTBroadcaster and journalist Christine Finn takes a look at some of lil ole Jerseys worldwide links

New Jersey

Tell them in New Jersey, USA, that you come from Jersey, and expect a bemused response: You dont sound like you come from Joisey! The American Garden State originated as a gift of land from the English King Charles II to a pair of loyalist friends. One was the Jersey adventurer Sir George Carteret, who renamed New Netherlands after his birthplace. New Jerseys 350th anniversary last summer saw simultaneous bell ringing in both Jerseys, and new links forged between these unlikely etymological cousins.

PORTUGAL AND MADEIRA

Visitors to Jersey expecting to hear French on the streets are often surprised by another language Portuguese. There are around 10,000 Portuguese speakers on the island. Most originated from Madeira during the booming tourism years of the 1960s to work in hotels and restaurants. Many stayed on, now running their own tourism businesses earmarked by their distinctive cuisine and music. Several speciality shops and colourful annual festivals celebrate the foods and music of both Portugal and Madeira. Try espetadas (grilled meat or fish on a skewer) or bacalhau (salted cod) and take your coffee with a pasteis de nata, or custard tart, in one of the lively Portuguese cafs in St Helier.

HOLLYWOOD CHARLIE CHAPLIN

Charlie Chaplin was one of many big-name celebrities who have made a guest appearance at the islands celebrated Battle of Flowers, held each summer. He came in 1912, when the festival really was a battle: the weeks and weeks of handiwork in creating the flower-festooned floats were pulled apart at the end of the event. They stay intact today as a nod to Jerseys floral heritage.

book online at www.jersey.com 35

REACHING OUTGERMANY

German tourists love walking, its part of their cultural heritage. And Jerseys exceptional network of coastal and country paths draws thousands of hikers who love to go a-wandering. The first encounter for some Germans with Jersey was rather different when they served on the Channel Islands during the World War Two Occupation. The first German tourists, drawn back to the island, arrived in the post-war years and have been returning with their families ever since. Latest figures indicate that Jersey now welcomes over 14,000 German visitors each year.

FRANCE

The exiled French writer Victor Hugo lived on Guernsey and, between 1852 and 1855, Jersey, where he wrote parts of his classic historical novel, Les Misrables. He was especially fascinated by Jerseys prehistory the mysterious standing stones, menhirs and dolmens scattered across the island. He penned part of a poem, Les Contemplations, as a response to time spent at Faldouet, a haunting dolmen in the east of the island. He also loved Mont Orgueil Castle. Discover why by joining enthusiast and official Blue Badge guide Pete Webb on a tour of Hugos Jersey.

SOUTH AFRICA (VIA AUSTRALIA AND HAWAII)

Surfing is hugely popular in Jersey, drawing crowds of surfers and spectators to west-facing St Ouens Bay, where the Atlantic crashes in. Way back in 1923, long before California and Beach Boy culture came on the scene, Jerseyman Nigel Oxenden, inspired by what he had seen on his worldwide travels, formed the Island Surf Club, possibly the first in Europe. Archive photos at the Watersplash, a popular hang-out for surfers, show those early surfers and their boards. Get the lowdown from a contemporary South African surfer, Chester Mackley at the Watersplash.

UK

So whats the real status of Jersey? Is it British? No, not quite. Its a Peculiar of the Crown, so-called because the island declared its allegiance to England, not France, in 1204. Jersey is independent and self-governing, with its own parliament, but still loyal to the British crown. Thats what gives Jersey its quirky, unique character, a place close to home and oddly familiar, but also continental. Youll see French as well as English road signs, might hear a smattering of the old Norman-French language known as Jrriais, yet also be somewhere thats reassuringly familiar.

A famous British institution, Boots the Chemist, has a foothold here. St Lawrences gorgeous Glass Church, an architectural gem with a 1930s interior designed by the celebrated French glassmaker Ren Lalique, was commissioned by islander Florence Boot, the widow of Jesse Boot and heir to the chemist shop empire

36 pureJersey

THE GREEN LANE CHALLENGE

Rosie Fuller is an adventurous kind of person. She has to be. Shes the editor

of Adventure Travel magazine. So would Jersey be a soft touch after trekking

in the Alps and Andes? Not really, as she found out on navigating the islands Green Lanes with her cousin

Richard Norris for company

book online at www.jersey.com 37

something tells me that conquering the Green Lanes is going to be tougher than wed thought, says cousin Richard. Weve accepted a challenge to cycle and walk all 45 miles of these mostly traffic-free roads that are dotted around Jersey. And its the map reading, rather than the physical effort, thats proving the biggest test.

Jerseys first Green Lanes opened in 1994. Voluntary police constable Mac Pollard came up with the idea, suggesting that many of the islands smaller, prettier, lesser-used roads should be given a speed limit of 15mph, with cyclists, walkers and horse riders getting priority over motorised vehicles. The idea took a few years to catch on, but when it did it became a big success. Green Lanes were introduced to all but two of Jerseys 12 parishes, and the concept won a major award from the British Guild of Travel Writers for a tourism project that benefits the environment.

But getting around all of them in three days? They are spread out all over the island like a giant crazy maze this was going to be tough.

For the first day of our challenge, we enlist the help of Jersey local Arthur Lamy. He has been a walking and cycling guide for 20 years, and before that he ran a bike shop on the island, so we reckon hes the man to get us off to a good start.

At 62 Arthur is nearly twice my age, and more than twice as sprightly. Rumour is that he puts weights in his panniers to give himself more of a workout when he has slower clients. I dont dare ask if this includes us

Rosie fuller

Rosie and Richard with guide Arthur Lamy

38 pureJersey

Arthur has planned a circular route in the north-west of the island and he takes the mission extremely seriously, with a milometer that he turns on and off whenever we start and finish a Green Lane. Its worrying that even he occasionally needs to stop and check the map there are so many little roads its hard to know which is which but after a few hours of cycling weve nailed about 22 Green Lane miles. And the quiet countryside and super views are just a taste of whats to come.

Theres more local advice from Victoria Barrett, who runs the bike-friendly Village B&B where were staying. My best tip for exploring by bike is to choose a side of the island to visit each day and stick to it, she says. She explains that there are five valleys running north to south down Jersey, so if you cycle from east to west this can mean a lot of uphill.

The Village B&B, located in the centre of the island, is an ideal base for our mission, and as well as being full of useful advice, Victoria offers to lend us lights and rain covers for the bikes should we need them.

Taking her advice on our first day without Arthur as a safety net, Richard and I venture north-east. The Green Lanes arent all connected, but there are 10 cycle routes across the island that lead us to most of them, all clearly shown on a free map from Jersey Tourism. We take Cycle Route 3 from just outside the B&B before joining Route 5, much of which is also a designated Green Lane, then stringing together more Green Lanes to reach the coast.

We have a quick look at the spectacular Mont Orgueil Castle at Gorey (its an island must-visit) before heading north (via more Green Lanes) for lunch at The Hungry Man caf at Rozel Harbour. The coastline is stunning. Jersey is just 13 miles from France, so on a clear day you can see across to Normandy, as well as catching glimpses of the other Channel Islands of Sark, Herm, Guernsey and Alderney. But as someone who loves the sea, Im surprised that Im happier when we get back to exploring inland.

Despite Jersey being an island of car-lovers, we barely see any traffic on either the Green Lanes or designated cycle routes. And life inland is much calmer than the hustle and bustle of the coast. Theres no pressure to do anything fast and, as Richard points out, it doesnt matter if you take a wrong turn, because youre unlikely to end up on a busy road, so it just adds to the adventure.

The scenery inland is delightful too. We ride past fields of Jersey cows one of the prettiest breeds of cattle watching us unfazed with big brown eyes. We come across tiny stalls selling homegrown produce potatoes, strawberries, eggs, courgettes where you simply leave a donation in an honesty box. There are lots of churches and all sorts of houses, from plush mansions to quaint cottages and pink stone farmhouses. We agree that we could happily live in most of them.

Going green on foot

Even the locals sometimes get lost

book online at www.jersey.com 39

Most of the Green Lanes are tarmac but a few are footpaths or tracks, still easily navigable by bike. We do find one exception a steep series of steps that are difficult even to push the bikes down. It is clearly signposted that you shouldnt take bikes this way in the first place, but were dedicated to the challenge so we go anyway. Well, that and were too lazy to turn round.

The Green Lanes and cycle routes also lead to some of Jerseys top attractions. We ride past the Eric Young Orchid Foundation, which looks interesting, but were more animal than plant lovers so we head to Durrell Wildlife Park. This is an opportunity to see fascinating rare creatures gorillas, monkeys, bears, snakes and more but its not just an average zoo. The park is all about conservation, helping endangered species recover and training animal enthusiasts from around the world. And although we havent been as productive as we were with the intrepid Arthur, by the end of the day weve ticked off at least another 10 Green Lane miles.

The port of St Aubin in the south-west hides a few of our coveted lanes, and these are our aim the following morning. Jersey had looked flat from the plane, and weve been following Victorias advice carefully, but there are still some seriously steep hills, especially from the seat of a bicycle. Im a masochistic cyclist so I enjoy them. Richard isnt so keen. Luckily I have the perfect attraction to bribe him with that afternoon.

These are the most southerly vineyards in the British Isles, says Darren Stower from La Mare Wine Estate. Weve conveniently found a few Green Lanes that we just have to conquer in the direction of La Mare, an immaculately laid out vineyard that not only produces wine, but cider, liqueurs, chocolate, jams and mustards too.

They also make Jerseys famous Black Butter a unique and curious spread thats a blend of apples, spices and liquorice. Its better than marmalade for breakfast. Whats more, I discover that Black Butter fudge is delicious and as effective as any energy gel as I sweep round a few more roads that evening, perhaps just a little merry from the wine tasting.

The perfect weather doesnt last until our final day, but it doesnt matter as wed planned a morning of walking anyway. Its nice seeing the scenery at an even slower pace, and it makes route finding easier. Drying off with a cup of tea and studying the map in a caf before our flight home, we have to accept that there are a few stray Green Lanes we havent quite managed to conquer. But we have done at least 90% of them. And that deserves another square of Black Butter fudge

Having visited a number of the Channel Islands before I was keen to see what Jersey offered and to find its hidden gems. That didnt take long, as the Green Lanes are clearly one of them. They provided a peaceful and relaxed way to get around and explore the real Jersey, and although theyre certainly not direct, that really doesnt matter when youre on holiday.

I was expecting muddy tracks, but the majority of the lanes are good-quality roads. I was taken by just how quiet they are, and the distinct lack of cars. Due to the sheer number of Green Lanes, they are a little hard to navigate, and at points I wished I had a map reading degree. But getting lost added to the sense of adventure, and there always seemed to be a friendly local just around the corner who was keen to help whether we were lost or not.

I was also struck by the excellent, well-signposted cycle routes, which proved a useful addition to the Green Lanes in getting around. My highlight was the stunning views while cycling along the north coast Sark, Herm, Guernsey, Brecqhou and mainland France on the horizon looked spectacular.

Richard Norris

RICHARDS RIDE

See overleaf for more on cycling and walking in Jersey. q

WE BARELY SEE ANY TRAFFIC ON THE GREEN LANES OR DESIGNATED CYCLE ROUTES

2X2

40 pureJersey

The wheel thingCycling in Jersey isnt just for MAMILs (Middle-Aged Men In Lycra, if you havent guessed). You can bring your latest go-faster carbon fibre road bike if you want (and well point you to some pretty steep hills). But cycling here is largely laid back and very scenic. Our roads are mostly quiet, especially the peaceful Green Lanes and traffic-free cyclepaths. Theres also a

96-mile across-island network of routes to follow with clear waymarking, and a good supply of cycle shops and hire facilities. Weve linked up with other favourite cycling destinations too. The Cycle West scheme shares over 700 miles of joined-up leisure cycling between Jersey, southern England and northern France (www.tourdemanche.com).

Walk this wayWhats your walking style? Laid back and relaxed? Enthusiastic and vigorous? Do you like beaches and headlands? Or are you more of a country lover?

It might be hard to believe, but Jersey answers all those walking questions. More and more visitors are discovering our

coastal paths and Green Lanes in an island blessed with a mild, sunny climate, great natural beauty and bountiful wildlife. So pack your walking boots and dont forget the binoculars.www.jersey.com/walking

J E R S E Y F I L E