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8/14/2019 Puppy House Training Ultimate Guide to Dog Training
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PUPPY
HOUSETRA INING:
THE ULTIMA TE GUIDE
2ND
EDITION
BY NA T H A L I E LA FLEUR
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P u p p y H o u set r a in in g : T h e U l t im a t e G u id e 2 n d E d i t io n
N a th L a f E n t er p r ise w w w .p u p p y -h o u se t r a in in g .c o mA l l R ig h ts R e se r v e d W o r ld w i d e
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DISCLA IMER
These warranties exclude all incidental or consequential damages. Our
company, and its owner, will not be liable for any damages whatsoever,
including without limitation, veracity, validity, or legality of the information
contained in this document, any morale issue, pecuniary loss and/or expense.
Although every precaution has been taken in preparation of this book, thepublisher and author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions.
Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the
information contained herein.
COPYRIGHT NOTE
This book contains copywrited material, trademarks and other proprietary
information. You may not modify, publish, transmit, participate in the
transfer or sale of, create derivative works of, on in any way exploit, in
whole or in part, any Proprietary or other Material.
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T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S
A b o u t t h is B o o k a n d a L i t t le B i t A b ou t M e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5I n t r o d u c t ion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7C h a p t er 1 : E ssen t ia l F a ct s y o u N ee d t o K n o w B ef o r e w e S t a r t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
What to Expect..........................................................................................................9
When Will my Puppy Need to Eliminate? ..............................................................9
How Frequently will my Puppy Need to Eliminate?............................................10
Where my Puppy should Eliminate? .....................................................................11
Give Me a Sign ...................................................................................................12
Puppy or Adult Is There a Difference?..............................................................13
C h a p t er 2 : T im e f o r E x ec u t iv e D ec is i o n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4Outdoor or Indoor Training?..................................................................................14
Getting Prepared .....................................................................................................14
Choosing an Elimination Zone or Toilet Stop ......................................................15
C h a p t er 3 : L ea sh a n d C o l l a r T r a in in g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8What Kind of Collar and Leash should I Buy?.....................................................18
How to Get My Puppy Used to his Leash and Collar?.........................................19
C h a p t er 4 : C r a t e T r a i n in g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1Den Sweet Den........................................................................................................21
What Kind of Crate Should I Buy?........................................................................21
How Big a Crate Should I Buy?.............................................................................22
Crate Training Step-by-Step...................................................................................23
Crate Training During the Night............................................................................26
How Long can I Let my Puppy in her Crate? .......................................................27
The Surefire Way to Get your Adult Dog Used to Her Crate..............................28
The Big DONTS during Crate Training...............................................................28
Sorry, but I just cant do it! ....................................................................................29
Conclusion...............................................................................................................31
C h a p t er 5 : W h a t s F o o d G o t t o D o w i t h i t ? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2Is it Really Worth the Extra Penny? ......................................................................32
Regular Feeding Equals Regular Elimination Habits...........................................33
The Biggest Mistake You Can Make Relating to Food........................................33How Many Times Should I Feed My Dog? ..........................................................34
How Much Food Is Enough? .................................................................................34
Label Reading 101 ..................................................................................................35
Water........................................................................................................................36
C h a p t er 6 : H o u set r a in in g S t ep -b y - S t ep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7The Original Seven-Step Technique......................................................................37
In More Details Now ..............................................................................................37
More Tips and Information on Housetraining ......................................................41
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Housetraining the Adult Dog .................................................................................43
The Big DONTS During Housetraining ..............................................................44
C h a p t er 7 : A S c h ed u le f o r E v er y o n e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6A Housetraining Day in your Puppys Life ..........................................................46Some Pieces of Advice for Full Time Workers ....................................................48
More Tips ............................................................................................................49
C h a p t er 8 : A W o r d A b o u t P a p er T r a in i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 1Paper Management in Three Steps ........................................................................52
Making the Transition.............................................................................................52
One Last Word ........................................................................................................53
C h a p t er 9 : W o w , I t s S p o t le ss C le a n in H er e! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4Just Tell Me Why....................................................................................................54
No Time for a Botched Job ....................................................................................54Products to Avoid ...................................................................................................54
Homemade Products...............................................................................................55
Commercial Products..............................................................................................55
Effective Step-by-Step Cleaning Methods ............................................................56
In More Details Now ..............................................................................................57
More Cleaning Tips ................................................................................................58
Its Now a Habit......................................................................................................58
Conclusion...............................................................................................................59
C h a p t er 1 0 : T h e S o lu t io n s C o r n er . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0So Many Problems, so Many Solutions ................................................................60
Supervision: Not Just for Kids ...............................................................................60
Common Housetraining Problems with Puppies ..................................................61
But He Was Perfectly Housetrained!.....................................................................64
Common Housetraining Problems with Adult Dogs ............................................65
The Solution for Most Housetraining Problems ...................................................67
F r eq u e n t ly A sk ed Q u est io n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 8H o u set r a in in g T i p s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 3C o n c l u s io n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5B o n u s 1 : S c h ed u le H e l p er . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
B o n u s 2 : E q u i p m en t C h e ck l i s t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 7
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A B O U T T H I S B O O K A N D A L I T T L E B I T A B O U T M E
Ive lived with dogs all my life and I can honestly say that Im a dog
passionate person. Ive always been fascinated by how much a dog can
learn if you take the time to teach him. At the moment, I live with a Golden
Retriever who is a typical book dog. You know the kind of dog you can
train by following the training principles you can read in most books. I also
have a Miniature Schnauzer who is completely the opposite! I had to write
my own book to train her. I had to figure out how her head was working and
that gave me a whole new perspective on dogs.
I decided to write this book because there are lots of dogs like my Miniature
Schnauzer who dont fit completely in traditional training, that are not your
typical book dog. You have to think of new ways to help them
understand.
As for the content of this book, although grammatically-speaking I should
use it to refer to your dog or puppy, I couldnt bring myself to use it. For
me a dog is not just a thing. So I used he or she so you could relate more
easily the information Im providing you with your puppy. Ive also opted
for the direct style. This book is for you and since I really want to help you
establish a great relationship with your dog and get through this
housetraining phase as easily as I can, it made more sense to me to write this
book as if I was talking to you in person.
Technically speaking, housetraining is the process of teaching your dog to
eliminate outside. Since a lot of people arent aware of this, Ive decided to
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use the term housetraining as a general concept and use the expressions
outdoor training and indoor training to make the difference between the
two methods you can choose from.
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I n t r o d u ct i o n
First of all, let me thank you for buying my book. You wont be
disappointed. As I promised you on my web site, I will help you go through
the housetraining phase of your puppy every step of the way.
Why a book on housetraining? Because it is the #1 reason why owners give
up their dog or have him put down. I wrote this guide because I want to
make a difference. In fact, Ive decided to make it my mission to save asmany dogs as I can by helping people to housetrain their dog. The fact that
you bought this book proves that you care and thats why I want to help you.
Ive structured this guide in a very practical manner starting with essential
facts you need to know to start housetraining your dog. In chapter 2 entitled
Time for Executive Decisions, I present you with diverse situations and
decisions you have to make so that housetraining your puppy fits perfectly
your lifestyle, your schedule and your environment.
I then talk about two types of training that you should do right away and that
will facilitate tremendously the housetraining process. Chapter 5 is devoted
to food and the considerable role it plays in housetraining your puppy. In
the next chapter, Housetraining Step-by-Step, youll f ind all the details
you need to teach your dog when and where to eliminate. Chapter 7
includes a typical schedule that you can easily follow or adapt. In chapter 8,
I deal with paper training and the reasons why it can only be a temporary
solution.
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Although I have no doubt that your puppy is a pure genius, he will make
some mistakes. Youll find in chapter 9, Wow! Its Spotless Clean in
Here! all the information pertaining to cleaning, from the household
products to avoid to the tools available on the market to make your life
easier.
Finally, in the last chapter, The Solutions Corner, youll find several
solutions to housetraining problems that most books dont talk about. I
really thought it was important to give you as many solutions as possible so
you would know what to do if you encounter these problems.
Lets start!
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C H A P T E R 1 : E S S E N T I A L F A C T S Y O U N E E D T O K N O WB E F O R E W E S T A R T
What to ExpectFirst of all, you cant expect your puppy to be fully housetrained and fully
reliable before shes six month of age. That being said, a dog can be
housetrained between one to six weeks. A lot depends on your puppys size
and breed and mostly the efforts you put into housetraining her.
There is also the fact that your puppy wont have adequate bladder and
bowel controls before shes 16 weeks old. In other words, shes not able to
hold it for long periods so you must be extra vigilant during that period.
But that doesnt mean that you cant start housetraining her the minute she
put her paws into your home. It just means that you have to expect your
puppy to have a couple of accidents. But dont worry, this Guide contains
everything youll need to handle these little mishaps, from how to react tohow to clean up.
When Will my Puppy Need to Eliminate?One of the key to housetraining success is being able to predict when your
dog will need to eliminate. Your puppy will most likely need to relieve
herself:
First thing in the morning
After meals because the expansion of the stomach will exert pressure
on the bladder and the colon
After drinking water
After waking up from a nap
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During and/or after playing or exercising
After chewing on her chew toys
After any excitement (someone knocking at the door, guests arriving
for example)
After a ride in the car (thats why t h e f i r st t h i n g you must do when
you bring your puppy home is to bring her to her Elimination Zone
(EZ) or her Toilet Stop (TS) so she can relieve herself)
During the active periods (between six and ten in the morning and
five and nine in the evening)
After smelling another dogs urine or seeing her urinate
When she leaves her crate
Last thing at night
As you can see, your puppy will need to go out quite often. But dont
despair, as she grows up she will need to be taken outdoor less often.
How Frequently will my Puppy Need to Eliminate?Heres a table that sums up the frequency of trips to the elimination zone or
the toilet stop required day and night depending on the age of your puppy.
Age Frequency Trips during the night6 t o 8 w e ek s E v e r y 3 0 1 , 4 5 2 , 6 0 3 t o
9 0 m i n u te s41 o r 2
8 t o 1 2 w e ek s E v e r y t w o h o u r s 11 2 t o 1 6 w e ek s E v e r y th r e e h o u r s 1 1 , N o n e 2 3 4
1 6 to 2 0 w e ek s E v e r y fo u r h o u r s N o n e2 0 t o 3 0 w e ek s 4 t o 6 t im e s/ d a y N o n e3 0 + w ee k s 3 o r 4 t im es/ d a y N o n e1 2 m o n t h s o l d T h r e e t im e s a d a y N o n e1 F o r th e to y a n d sm a ll b r ee d s (d og s u p to 2 0 p o u n d s)2 F o r th e m e d iu m b r ee d s ( d og s u p to 5 0 p o u n d s)3 F o r th e la r g e b r e e d s ( d o g s f r o m 5 0 t o 8 5 p o u n d s)4 F o r th e g ia n t b r ee d s ( d o g s o v e r 8 5 p o u n d s)
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Finally, your puppy will usually want to defecate between 1 and 30 minutes
after eating and to urinate within 20 minutes of drinking a lot of water.
Of course, these are general estimates. If you use the blank schedule, your
puppys internal clock wont have any secret for you in no time. Youll be
able to predict when she needs to go and since dogs learn by repetition,
every time she goes at the r ig h t place she reinforces a good behavior.
During the first week, the more the better. Thats why it is a good idea to
take some time off when you bring your puppy home. By establishing good
habits from day one, youll be able to spend the rest of your life together
enjoying each and every moment.
If you decide to take a week off, dont make the mistake of having the puppy
with you all the time because you wont be there all the time when you goback to work and youll make it harder for your puppy to adjust. Instead,
follow the schedule for people at home starting on page 45. That way, youll
kill two birds with one stone: 1) youll speed up your puppys housetraining
process by bringing her outdoor or to her designated place indoor more often
than you could if you were working; and 2) youll help your puppy learn that
being alone is not the end of the world.
Where my Puppy should Eliminate?There are only two places your dog can eliminate: outdoor at her
elimination zone or indoor at her toilet stop. One of the most frequent
mistake new owners make is to think that paper training is the first step to
housetraining. It is NOT.
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Housetraining, or outdoor training, is the process of teaching your puppy to
eliminate outsideALL the time while indoor training involves teaching your
dog to eliminate at a designated place, her toilet stop, insideyour house or
apartment.
Give Me a SignMost dogs follow a ritual just before eliminating. Your task is to learn to
read your dog. To help you with this task, here are the signs you shouldpay attention to:
Your puppy whimpers;
Her tail is rising;
She runs around in circle;
She sniffs intently the floor, carpet, ground in a quest for the right
spot!
She paces restlessly;
She scratches the door that leads to her elimination zone;
She moves away from the playing area;
She squats.
At the moment you see any of these behaviors, stop whatever you are doing,
put her leash on and take her outside to her elimination zone or inside to her
toilet stop. If she starts peeing, interrupt her by saying a firm outside or
toilet and then take her to the EZ or TS.
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Puppy or Adult Is There a Difference?
The housetraining method is the same for a puppy or an adult. The only
difference is that an adult dog can hold it a lot longer than a puppy. So, it
may seem easier to train an adult dog, but it can also be tricky since your
adult dog comes with a background and you dont always know how her
previous owner trained her.
The crate training part of the method may take a bit longer with an adult dog
but dont worry I will give you a surefire way to get your adult dog used to
her crate.
You now have all the essential information behind housetraining. It is now
time for you to make some important executive decisions.
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C H A P T E R 2 : T I M E F O R E X E C U T I V E D E C I S I O N S
Outdoor or Indoor Training?
Depending on your situation, you have to decide if you want to train your
dog to eliminate outside or inside your home.
I highly recommend you to train your dog to go outside if you have access to
a backyard, a park or the street.
If you live in a high-rise or you are a disabled person and its almost
impossible for you to get outside quickly, you should train your dog to
eliminate in a specific place inside your house or apartment. Owners of a
toy breed who live in a region where it gets cold in the winter may also
decide to train their dog to go inside.
Getting PreparedIt is always better to get everything prepared before your puppys arrival.
But dont worry, if you already have your puppy Ill help you get set right
away. During the housetraining process, well use two kinds of
confinements: short term and long term. To confine your dog for a short
period of time, youll use a crate. Youll find in chapter 4: CrateTraining,
all the information you need to choose the right crate for your dog and how
to get him used to his crate.
When youll leave your puppy for more than a couple of hours, youll use
long term confinement. To this end, youll have to block part of a room in
your house in which youll put your puppys crate, paper on the floor and a
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couple of chew toys. Its a good idea to put a plastic sheet under the paper to
protect the floor even more. Well call this place your puppys domain.
The kitchen is usually the best choice because it is a busy place. Dogs really
need to feel that they are part of the family and being in the middle of all the
action is highly motivating for them. In general, a kitchen floor is also easy
to clean up which is a must during housetraining.
To block part of the room, you can use baby gates. They are easy to install
and to open when its time to get your puppy outside. You can also use a
play pen to confine your dog. Most pet stores have them. These tools are
more expensive though. When I was housetraining my dogs, I used a couple
of plywood boards to block the kitchen entries and they worked just fine.
So, your puppys domain should be delimitated with gates or board, his crateshould be in one corner and the rest of the floor covered with paper. By the
way, butcher or brown paper is a lot better than newspaper since it doesnt
contain ink, therefore it is a lot less messy. Your puppy should have a
couple of chew toys to play with. One very popular chew toy is a Kong
because you can fill it with peanut butter, kibbles and other favorite treats to
your dog to keep him occupied. As your puppy grows, you can expand his
domain.
Choosing an Elimination Zone or Toilet StopYou have to decide where you want your puppy to eliminate. For those of
you who will outdoor train their puppy, choose a place that is easily
accessible and relatively quiet and that wont get too muddy. For example, I
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chose a corner of my backyard not too close to the street so my dogs wont
get distracted when its time to go. We will call this place the Elimination
Zone (EZ).
Of course, for the city dog, the elimination zone will probably be the gutter.
No matter which spot you choose, just follow the seven-step technique
(p. 37) and everything is going to be fine.
The reason I want you to choose a spot and always bring your dog there is
that dogs have a very powerful sense of smell. It only takes one pee and
poop for your dog to recognize the spot after that. The smell will trigger
your dogs desire to eliminate and speed up the whole process.
Dogs also want to refresh their spot or mark another dogs spot with
their own smell, so unless you want to stop at every telephone posts andevery hydrants you encounter, dont let your dog sniff those when youre
going on a walk with him.
The toilet stop is the equivalent of the elimination zone but its inside your
house. You have to choose a place that wont be in the way, but not too
isolated so that your puppy will have a hard time finding it. I would
recommend the bathroom. The floor surface is usually easy to clean up,
there is generally a fan that makes it easier to get rid of the odor and it is
usually on the same floor as the one where youll set up your puppys
domain.
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The base of a litter box or a low-base plastic box lined with paper would be
perfect. For those of you who also have a cat, forget the idea of having your
four-legged friends share the same litter box. Believe me, it wont work and
youll have more problems to solve that you can think of.
Some people choose to have their dog eliminate in a low-base storage box
(like those you can find in hardware stores and that you can slide under your
bed) lined with grass and put on the balcony. It is certainly a good idea, but
remember that at one point youll have to replace the grass.
Ok. So your puppys domain is ready, you know if you want him to
eliminate inside or outside and you have chosen the perfect spot for him. It
is now time for you to accomplish your first tasks as a new owner: get your
puppy used to his leash and collar.
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C H A P T E R 3 : L E A S H A N D C O L L A R T R A I N I N G
First things first. You have to train your puppy to accept his collar and
leash. In the housetraining method Im going to show you, you have to walk
your puppy to his elimination zone or his toilet stop on leash. Until your
puppy knows what you expect from him and where hes supposed to
eliminate, youll have to help him.
What Kind of Collar and Leash should I Buy?Since your puppy will outgrow his collar a number of times before reaching
adulthood, I recommend you to buy a simple, inexpensive, nylon buckle
collar. If you still havent made your trip to the pet store to get everything
youll need for your new family addition, youll realize once there that the
choice of collars and leashes is almost unlimited.
Collars also come in a variety of size, usually from 10 to 24 inches. To
know which size to buy, measure your dogs neck very loosely with a
measuring tape and add a couple of inches. For example, if your puppys
neck is 10 inches, you should buy a 12-inch collar. One very practical collar
is the adjustable collar. As its name suggests, it allows you to adjust the size
of the collar as your puppy grows and has the great advantage of saving you
money and a couple of trips to the pet store!
As for the leash, I recommend a six-foot leash. It is a lot easier to walk a
dog on a 6-foot leash than a shorter one. In addition, if you decide to attend
obedience class with your puppy (which I strongly encourage you to do),
youll already have the leash most trainers require you to get.
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Youll find a checklist of everything youll need for your puppys arrival in
Bonus 2.
How to Get My Puppy Used to his Leash and Collar?
T h e co l l a r :
The first time youll put a collar on your puppy, hell probably scratch it a
lot. Thats perfectly normal. By the way, once fastened, you should be able
to slip two fingers under your puppys collar.
To get your puppy used to his collar, put it on him 10 minutes at a time
every hour for the first few days. Then let it on for 20 minutes for the next
couple of days. After that, for half an hour and so on until he wears it all day
long.
NOTE: When you are leaving for work or just going out for a couple of
hours, always take off your puppys collar when you put him in his crate.
That way, you wont have to worry that your puppys collar gets stuck in the
bars of the crate. I know what are the chances? One in a million, maybe,
but why take the risk. Some dogs are real Houdini, dont find out the sad
way that your dog was one such dog.
T h e l ea sh :
A very easy way to get your puppy used to his leash is to let him drag it
around. Of course, you must be with your puppy and watch him when you
do that. You dont want him to get stuck somewhere.
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Once he doesnt seem to notice the leash, try picking it up but without
pulling on it. Just follow your puppy without putting any pressure on the
leash. You want your puppy to get used to you being close since hell have
to learn to eliminate while hes on leash.
There are lots of reasons why I want you to teach your dog to eliminate on
leash. First of all, youll be able to control his activities. In other words,
when its time to eliminate its not the time for him to explore every corner
of the backyard.
Puppies forget easily the reason why theyre outside if you let them sniff
around instead of keeping them in the elimination zone where theyre
supposed to get down to business. Once he has eliminated, your dog will
have plenty of time to explore and play. Housetraining your puppy that wayhelps him learn that the sooner he eliminates the sooner he can play. Believe
me, you will greatly appreciate having trained your dog following this
method when Mother Nature wont be in a good mood or when youll be
running late!!!
Teaching your dog to eliminate on leash will also make your life a lot easier
when youll be traveling and if you are thinking of getting into dog sport
activities.
Its now time to start crate training your dog.
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C H A P T E R 4 : C R A T E T R A I N I N G
Den Sweet DenWhat do experts mean by Dogs are denning animals? They mean that
instinctively your dog wont want to soil the place where she sleeps and eats.
Thats why a crate is the most useful tool you can use to dramatically speed
up the housetraining process.
Since your puppy wont want to soil her crate, she will develop bladder and
bowel controls and learn to hold it until it is time to go to her elimination
zone or toilet stop.
Please dont let your own perceptions of a crate deprive your dog to satisfy
her most basic needs. A lot of people think that putting a puppy in a crate is
cruel. It is NOT. On the contrary, your puppys crate will become her own
cozy place where she can go to rest. Most dogs continue to go in their crate
even after the housetraining stage is over because it satisfies their profound
denning instinct.
Finally, a crate gives you peace of mind when you cant supervise or interact
with your dog because you know that she is in a safe and comfortable place
and cant destroy anything precious while shes there.
What Kind of Crate Should I Buy?Youll find two kinds of crates in pet stores: wire crates and plastic pet
carriers. The plastic crates are particularly useful if you plan to take your
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dog on a plane since most of these crates are approved by airlines. They are
also less heavy than wire crates.
In addition, they dont allow as much air circulation as the wire crates do.
On the one hand, it is an advantage in cold or wet climates since it will allow
your dog to keep her body warm. On the other hand, however, it will be an
inconvenient in hot or humid weather conditions.
A lot of people put their dog in a crate when traveling by car. If you dont
plan to use a crate for your car trips, please buy a dog seatbelt or tie your
dogs leash on a regular seatbelt so your dog wont end up in the windshield
if you have an accident. Anyway, a dog loose in a car is a very dangerous
practice. One last word about dogs and cars: the interior of a car on a sunny
day can reach 100o
in less than 10 minutes, so please never let your dog
unattended in a car.
For those of you who have a big chewer on their hands, I recommend a wire
crate. Most of them can be folded flat making them easy to store or carry
around. Furthermore, puppies usually like the wire crate because it is more
open and they can see a lot better what is going on.
How Big a Crate Should I Buy?The most useful advice I can give you on this matter is: buy a crate that will
be big enough for your dog to use once she has reached her full adult size.
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Why? First, because it will allow you to save a lot of money and second,
because it is very easy to reduce the size of the crate with cardboard or wire
separator to fit your dogs size as she grows up.
That being said, here are the principles to follow when choosing a crate:
Height: Your dog must be able to stand without having to duck her head.
Width: Your dog must be able to comfortably lie on her side and stretch out.
Length: Your dog must be able to lie down completely stretched without
having to curl up.
When you bring your puppy home, all you have to do is to reduce the length
of the crate by installing a cardboard, plywood board or wire separator. As
your puppy grow, just move the separator to fit your dogs size.
Do you really have to reduce the crates length? Yes. If your puppy has toomuch room in her crate she could easily decide to sleep in one end and
eliminate in the other. That would defeat the whole purpose of using a crate
to housetrain your puppy.
Finally, once youve reduced the size of the crate, just look if your dog
seems comfortable in it. If so, everything is OK!
Crate Training Step-by-StepDogs learn by association. If something is positive, they will accept it easily
and will look forward to it. On the other hand, if something is negative, they
will want to avoid it. What we want here is to teach your puppy that a crate
is something positive. Heres how to achieve this:
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Step 1: Block the door open, sit beside your puppys crate, have your puppy
sniff the treat in your hand and throw the treat in the crate. When
your puppy goes in the crate to get the treat, praise her. Do this three
or four times, and stop. Repeat the process as often as you can
(every 15 minutes to half hour, for example) until your puppy goes in
and out of the crate willingly. At the beginning, throw the treat in
the front part of the crate and gradually throw it further and further
in.
It is very im p o r t a n t to praise your dog when she goes in and not when
shes coming out of the crate. In fact, you shouldnt say a word when
your puppy comes out of her crate. You dont want her to think that
getting out of the crate is more fun than staying in it.
Step 2: Still sitting beside the crate, throw the treat in the crate, close the
door of the crate for 15-30 seconds and continue tossing small treats
to your puppy during that time. Let your puppy out of the crate
without saying a word.
Repeat this step many times until your puppy stays quietly in hercrate about 4-5 minutes. Of course, you wont toss treats in the crate
for 5 minutes so make sure when you throw the first treat in to also
put a chew toy in the crate so your puppy has something to keep her
occupied.
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It is also a good time to introduce a cue word when your puppy goes
in her crate easily. I simply use in your crate. Choose a word that
comes naturally to you and that youll only use for that purpose.
Crate training is not about beating world records! Dont try to push
things to see how long your puppy will tolerate her crate. If you do
that, you may end up with a puppy that will start whining to get out. It
takes a lot more time to retrain a dog than to teach her correctly the
first time.
Step 3: Now, you will start to go about your business around the house while
leaving your puppy in her crate. Remember to give her a chew toy
when you put her in her crate. Since she will see or hear you close
by, she will know that you havent abandoned her!
Again, dont push things. After five minutes, release her from her
crate but dont make a fuss about it. Continue practising this step
and gradually increase the time you let her in her crate.
Step 4: Finally, you will train your puppy to stay alone in her crate while
youre not in the house. At the beginning, just leave for 10 to15 minutes. Go get the mail, go run an errand, water your flowers,
etc. Use your imagination. Dont leave home for more than half an
hour the first few times. Again, dont forget to let your puppy her
favorite chew toy when you put her in her crate.
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If you follow these steps, you should have a puppy going in her crate happily
in no time. The main idea is to go slowly and gradually and make crate
training a positive experience for your puppy.
One last thing: why is the chew toy so important? Because 1) puppies sleep a
lot during the day and 2) they usually fall asleep after chewing on their toy
for 10-15 minutes. Crate training your puppy following this method allows
you to teach your puppy two very valuable things: a) sleeping in her crate is
the most natural and pleasant activity in the world, and b) she can chew on
her chew toy only and nothing else; not your shoes, your chair legs, etc.
To make sure your puppy sees her crate very positively, feed her in the crate.
When shes finished eating, take her on leash to her elimination zone or her
toilet stop.
Crate Training During the NightWeve seen in the section How Frequently will my Puppy Need to
Eliminate? that you will have to bring your puppy to her elimination zone
or toilet stop at least once during the night.
For the night, the crate should be in your bedroom so you can hear your
puppy cries when she needs to eliminate. It is very IMPORTANT to get up
and bring your puppy to her designated place so she can eliminate.
If you dont, your puppy will eliminate in her crate and all your hard work
crate training her will be in vain. Furthermore, a puppy who learns to soil
her crate becomes extremely tough to housetrain afterward. So, get up.
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Dont worry, you wont have to do this for the rest of her life. It is only
temporary.
The most important thing to remember when you take your puppy out of her
crate during the night to have her eliminate is not to say a word. Just bring
her to the designated place and once her business is done put her back to her
crate without saying a word to her.
Why? Because if you start talking to her or worst, play with her, she will
think that its time to get up and have fun. She will learn to get up more
often during the night to get play times. Of course, thats not what you want.
A couple of days before getting your puppy, it is a good idea to wear an old
t-shirt. Once you have your puppy, put your t-shirt in your puppys crate at
night. This way, even though she cant see you in the dark, your scent willreassure her. This tip works for a lot of dogs.
How Long can I Let my Puppy in her Crate?The number of hours you can let your puppy in her crate corresponds to her
age. In other words, if your puppy is two months old you can let her two
hours in her crate, if shes three months old, she can stay in her crate for
three hours.
When youre housetraining an adult dog, the maximum period of time you
can crate your dog is four hours at a time. Later, when your dog is fully
housetrained, you can decide to let her free in the house. Of course, expect
to find dog hairs on the most comfortable chair or bed in your house!
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The Surefire Way to Get your Adult Dog Used to HerCrate
Sometimes an adult dog that has never been crate trained wont want to go in
her crate. First, follow the method described in the section Crate Training
Step-by-Step (p. 23).
If your adult dog still doesnt want to go in, start feeding her in her crate.
When its time to feed your dog, with her bowl in your hand, tell her go in
your crate and put the bowl at the far end of the crate. Do this for a weekand I promise you that in no time all youll have to say is go in your crate
and she will be running there.
For me, this has become a permanent routine. I also consider this an
excellent opportunity to practice my dogs sit-stay and down-stay.
The Big DONTS during Crate Training
DONT let your puppy in her crate longer than shes supposed to.
(Remember: two months = two hours, three months = three hours,
etc.).
DONT use the crate to punish your dog. It is very important that
your puppy sees her crate as a positive experience.
DONT let your puppy out of her crate if shes whining or she starts to
make a fuss. If that happens, wait for her to calm down before letting
her out. A good habit to take is to ask your puppy to sit before
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opening the door. A dog bolting out of a crate is dangerous both for
you and her.
DONT put the crate in an isolated room like the garage or the
basement. It is very important for your puppy to be with you. The
kitchen or family room is the ideal choice.
DONT allow your children to go in the puppys crate. It is her place,
her safe haven in the house.
DONT crate your puppy until you got her used to her crate.
DONT force your puppy in the crate and close the door. All youll
achieve is scare her and it will take you a lot longer afterward to
reintroduce her to her crate. Remember, every new experience in yourpuppys life must be positive.
Sorry, but I just cant do it!If, after reading this chapter, you are still not convinced that crate training
your puppy is the best thing you can do for her and you cant bring yourself
to use a crate, you have two other options.
You can use a tie-down or create a physical bond between you and your
puppy.
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T i e - d o w n
A tie-down is simply a 3 or 4-foot leash that you attach to a heavy piece of
furniture. It is very important, when you hook your puppy to the leash, that
she wears a buckle collar and that you give her a chew toy to keep her
occupied.
Depending on the size of your puppy, you must adjust the length of the
leash. Your puppy should be able to sit, stand, lie down and stretch while
shes hooked to the tie-down. Dont let her too much leeway or she could
decide to do her business at the end of the leash and come back to her post to
continue playing.
One last thing, NEVER tie-down your dog if youre not around to supervise
her. It is extremely dangerous. Her legs can become entangled in the leash
and she could even hang herself. Believe me, a crate is far more safer.
P h y si c a l B o n d
The difference between the tie-down and the physical bond is that the end of
the leash is attached to you instead of a piece of furniture. It is more
cumbersome to have a puppy attached to you, but it allows you to watch her
like a hawk! Usually, a four-foot leash is perfect for this.
Finally, even if you choose to use a tie-down or a physical bond, your
puppys elimination needs dont disappear. You have to follow the
housetraining method as if you were using a crate.
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ConclusionThere are absolutely no doubts in my mind that crate training your dog is the
most canine service you can render to your dog. Besides speeding up
dramatically the housetraining process, a crate provides your dog with a safe
place to rest. It also makes traveling with your dog by car more secure.
Furthermore, if you have to let your dog to the vet overnight, you will make
the separation a lot easier for your dog and help her recovery since she will
be used to sleeping in a crate. Finally, lots of hotels wont accept dogs if
they are not crate trained.
Were almost there One last chapter to deal with and well really get into
the heart of housetraining. But before we do so, you have to read the next
chapter since food has a big impact on your puppys ability to get
housetrained.
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C H A P T E R 5 : W H A T S F O O D G O T T O D O W I T H I T ?
Everything! I will show you in this chapter the important role food can play
in your housetraining success or failure. I will also explain how food can
impact your dogs health and behavior.
Is it Really Worth the Extra Penny?Absolutely. Feeding a good quality food to your dog has a HUGE impact on
housetraining and heres why.
When you feed a good quality food to your dog, he needs to eat less of it to
satisfy his hunger and to meet his nutritional needs. Consequently, the
premium food bag may cost more, but it will last longer.
A good quality food is also more easily digestible. So if you combine these
two factors, you end up with a puppy that will eliminate less by-products.
Furthermore, since the excrement will be smaller and firmer (because most
of the food will be digested), it will be a lot easier for your puppy to hold it
and learn to control his bowel movements. Needless to say that during
housetraining, these are winning conditions!
Good quality foods are made with nutritional ingredients. Your dog then
gets everything he needs to keep him happy and healthy. Since a healthy
dog doesnt have to visit the veterinarian many times a year, youll save an
amazing amount of money on vet bills. Believe me, the annual cost of a
premium quality food is a lot less than the cost of cheap food plus the vet
bills.
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dog to eat all the food in the world, youll lose all your appeal when it will
be time for you to train him. Think about it. Why would your dog work for
food if he can have what he wants, when he wants it!
How Many Times Should I Feed My Dog?I firmly believe that a dog should be fed twice a day. For puppies, three
meals are even better. Of course, if you work during the day and cant come
back during your lunch break to feed your puppy, feed him two meals a day.
It has been proven that feeding twice a day has a real positive impact onyour dogs behavior. Dog food stays in your dogs stomach between 4 to 8
hours. Consequently, if you feed your dog only once a day, it means that he
lives on an empty stomach 16 hours a day. Most behavior problems, like
chewing and restlessness, originate from dogs who are simply hungry.
On the other hand, if you feed your puppy twice a day, hell have an empty
stomach only 8 hours a day which corresponds, if you think about it, to a
good night sleep!
How Much Food Is Enough?
Start by feeding the portion indicated on the food bag depending on your
puppys age and weight. The easiest way to know if you feed too much or
not enough is, believe it or not, by counting the number of stools your dogproduces. If your dog defecates more than three times a day, you are giving
him too much food. All you have to do is adjust the portion of food until
your dog defecates three times a day.
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By the way, dont switch to another type of food during housetraining. A
puppys stomach is easily upset by a change of food and its hard to
housetrain a puppy who has diarrhea! Once your puppy is housetrained, it
will be easier for him to adapt to the change.
Label Reading 101Ive told you how important a good quality food can be in you dogs life.
However, I still have not told you how to differentiate a good quality food
from a cheap one. The surefire way to make sure youre feeding your dogappropriately is to read the label to know exactly what is in the bag.
Dog food is a science in itself and I wont pretend that I know everything
about it. However, after reading a lot on that subject, I can give you one
principle to follow that will help you make a good choice. Basically, two of
the first three ingredients, and preferably the first two ingredients, listed on
the label should be animal proteins (beef, chicken, lamb, fish). The law
requires manufacturers to list the ingredients in the order of predominance
by weight. So, the first ingredient listed on the label is the one found in
biggest proportion in the food composition.
Although it is a bit technical, I encourage you to read the article entitled
Interpreting Pet Food Labels posted on the website of the Center forVeterinary Medicine at the following address:
http://www.fda.gov/cvm/index/consumer/petlabel.htm.
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WaterThe same principle for food applies to water. If you dont monitor how
much goes in, you wont be able to predict how much will get out.
During the housetraining process, you wont let your dog have access to all
the water he wants. Youll give him water at specific moments and never
after 7:00 p.m. if you dont want to get up three times during the night.
However, if you get your puppy in the middle of a scorching heat, youll
have to make an exception to the 7 oclock rule. When its very hot, I give
my dogs ice chips. They love them and it really helps bring down their
internal temperature.
Once your dog is housetrained, you will make sure that he always has access
to a fresh supply of water.
Finally housetraining step-by-step is next.
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C H A P T E R 6 : H O U S E T R A I N I N G S T E P - B Y - S T E P
I firmly believe that every dog can be housetrained. It may sometimes take
longer than we would like, but with a little bit of patience and consistency
you will succeed.
The Original Seven-Step Technique
S t ep s W h a t to d o
1 G e t y ou r p u p p y o u t o f h is c r a te o r h is d o m a in a n d p u t h is l ea sho n .
2 A c c om p a n y h im t o h i s e l i m i n a t i on z on e o r t o i l e t s t o p .
3 D O N T sa y a w o r d u n t i l h e s t a r t s e l i m in a t in g .4 W h en h e s ge t t in g d o w n t o b u s in ess , sa y y o u r co m m a n d w or d i n
a so f t v o i ce .5 P r a i se h im l i k e c r a z y f o r e l i m in a t i n g a t t h e r ig h t p l a ce .6 P l a y w i t h y ou r p u p p y a co u p l e o f m in u t e s a t l e a s t .7 B r in g y o u r p u p p y b a ck to h i s c r a t e o r d o m a in .
Follow these steps every time your puppy needs to eliminate and in no time
youll have a housetrained dog, guaranteed!
In More Details Now
T h e R i g h t P a t h
It is very important that you always follow the same path, use the same door,when accompanying your puppy to his elimination zone or toilet stop.
Thats how youll teach your dog to ask you to go out or to go on his own to
his toilet stop.
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If your puppy starts eliminating on your way to the EZ or TS, say a firm
outside or toilet (or whatever word you want to use), pick him up, bring
him to his EZ or TS and follow the other steps (silence, command word,
praise and play).
A cc o m p a n y in g y o u r p u p p y t o h is e l im i n a t i on z o n e or t o i l e t st o p
Why do I want you to accompany your puppy? First, because since your
puppy is on leash and you can control his whereabouts, he wont do anything
else but get down to business.
Second, it is the only way for you to be sure that your dog has completely
emptied both reservoirs. Furthermore, since praise is an important step to
your puppys housetraining success, you MUST be there to praise him when
he does the right thing.
Third, youll see whats getting out of there! Some puppy gets diarrhea when
you bring them home because of all the excitement. In these circumstances,
it is very important to monitor closely the situation. A dog dehydrates very
easily, particularly small puppies, dont hesitate to call your vet and ask
him/her what to do if the diarrhea lasts more than a day.
Fourth, it is the only way for you to count how many stools your dog
produces in a day. As Ive mentioned before, your goal is three poops a day.
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Finally, if you dont go outside with your puppy, theres a good chance that
all hell want to do is come back inside because he wants to be with you. If
you let him in thinking he doesnt need to go, I can guarantee you that hell
probably relieve himselfinsidewithin a couple of minutes!
S h h h h .. .
Until your puppy starts to eliminate, you wont say a word. Some of you
may be thinking: What does it change if I talk to my dog? First, you dont
want him to get distracted. You brought him out for one purpose:
eliminating.
Second, you dont want to make one of the most common mistakes new
owners make: If you were thinking like a dog, in other words associate an
action with a consequence, heres the conclusion you would arrive at: when
we go out I get all the attention, but the minute I relieve myself, no more
attention and back in the house. Dogs are smart, you know. They like the
outdoors and would much prefer staying outside then going back in the
house. The final result would be a dog that holds it as long as he can so he
can stay outside longer.
E li m i n a t in g o n C o m m a n d
For those of you who plan to participate in obedience, agility or any other
dog activities, teaching your dog to eliminate on command will be very
useful. And for those of you who dont plan to compete in any of these
sports, this command will make your life a lot easier. Just think for example
that you are in a hurry or youre late for an appointment, you certainly dont
want to spend half an hour outside waiting for you dog to attend to the call
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of nature! Youll also find this command very useful when its freezing
outside or raining cats and dogs!
You first have to choose a command word. Remember that you will only
use that word for that purpose. A lot of people use hurry up, but dont
hesitate to be creative. However, dont choose a word that you use regularly
in casual conversations. For example, for those of you who have kids, I
wouldnt use lets go! Im sure you can imagine what the result could
be
T e a ch i n g y o u r D og t o G o o n C o m m a n d
1. Bring your dog to his elimination zone or toilet stop.
2. Dont say a word. Remember, if you talk and pay attention to him,
hell forget what hes supposed to do.
3. The moment he starts to urinate or defecate, say your command word
in a very soft tone of voice.
4. Once finished, praise your dog lavishly.
As you can see, its very easy to teach this command. But since dogs learn
by repetition, it is very important to use it every time you bring your dog to
his elimination zone or toilet stop. Once your dog has learned the command,
he will get down to business rapidly and that will allow the both of you to
spend more quality time together.
P r a is e , p r a i se , p r a i se
Praises are extremely important when youre housetraining your dog
because thats how hell know that he has done the right thing. Dont
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hesitate to praise your dog with a Goood boy and Goood girl every time
your puppy does something you like.
P l a y , a n a t u r a l d o g b eh a v i o r
Dogs like to play. Nothing makes them more happy than playing with you.
As Ive told you before, if you play with your dog, even if its only for a
couple of minutes, AFTER he has eliminated, hell relieve himself a lot
faster.
More Tips and Information on Housetraining
F o r th ose of y ou i n t h e N or t h
Believe it or not, snow can slow down your puppys housetraining progress.
How? If you let your puppy walk in the snow where he just relieved himself,
hell bring snow with urine stuck in his paws back in the house.
If you dont dry your puppys paws with a towel before putting him back to
his crate or domain, the snow will melt in the crate or on the floor. Your
puppy will then smell the urine and it may very well trigger his desire to
eliminate again. Youll end up with an accident that could have been easily
avoided.
Keeping your puppys hair short and clean is important, in particular during
the housetraining process.
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I m p o r t a n ce o f p ic k i n g u p a f t e r y o u r d o g
A t h o m e : As strange as it might seem, a dog wont defecate just beside
another stool left on the ground. Consequently, if you dont pick up after
your dog, he will gradually widen his elimination zone. So, if you dont want
your whole backyard to become a doggy toilet, its better to keep the
elimination zone clean.
E v er y w h e r e el se: I cannot stress enough the importance of picking up after
your dog when you bring him for a walk, in a park, camping, etc. Too many
people hate dogs because some dog owners leave their dogs waste
everywhere. Please, poop and scoop. Its the best contribution you can make
to the improvement of the canine populations reputation.
H e s n o t e li m i n a t i n g , w h a t sh o u l d I d o ?
If youve spent 5 minutes with your puppy at his EZ or TS and he has not
eliminated, put him back in his CRATE, let him there for 10 minutes and try
again. Im sure that within three attempts your puppy will have relieved
himself.
T e a ch in g y o u r d o g t o r esp ec t t h e h o u se
At one point, you will probably want to let your dog loose in the house. To
achieve this, you have to teach your dog to respect the whole house. The best
way is to let your puppy explore one room of the house at a time and alwaysAFTER he has completely emptied both bladder and bowel.
Dont start the exploration of the house before your dog has learned to keep
his domain clean and even then, you must watch him like a hawk! I would
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also recommend to have your dog on leash during your adventure
together.
O u t d o o r T r a in i n g a n d I n f ec t io u s D i sea ses
Most vets will recommend you not to take your puppy out for walks until he
has been immunized against infectious diseases. For the city dog, this is
particularly true since your puppy can catch diseases by sniffing the
excrements of other dogs not immunized.
Being aware of this, if you want your puppy to eliminate outdoor right away,
I think the easiest way is to always use the same spot and not to let your dog
sniff at other dogs excrements.
Housetraining the Adult DogAs Ive told you previously, the housetraining method doesnt change with
an adult dog. Its more a question of time than anything else: an adult dog
can hold it and stay in his crate longer. Therefore, you can eliminate the
hourly trips outside and plan for three or four trips a day.
The first thing you have to do when you get an adult dog is to have him
check by a vet. Once you know that your dog is in perfect health, you can
start housetraining him. Of course, your dogs previous owner may have
perfectly housetrained him. If thats the case, all youll have to do his show
your dog his new elimination zone or toilet stop.
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The Big DONTS During Housetraining
DONT put your dogs nose in his mess. It has been proven over and
over again that all you will accomplish is to make matters worse, scare
your puppy and destroy any chance of building a strong relationship
with him.
DONT reprimand your dog after he has made a mistake. He wont
remember what he has done. A dogs memory of his actions lasts only
from 1 to 6 seconds. Thats why reprimanding your dog for his messwhen you arrive from work is absolutely pointless. From your dogs
point of view, your arrival is something negative that he should be
afraid of.
DONT shout at your dog if you catch him in the act. Instead,
interrupt him by saying a firm outside or toilet, pick him up
(thats the only time you should pick up your dog to bring him to his
elimination zone or toilet stop), put his leash on, go to the designatedspot, let him finish what he had started at the wrong place and then
praise him lavishly for going at the right place. If you scold him, you
will only teach him to eliminate when youre not around and thats
exactly the opposite of what we want to accomplish. He may also find
himself a hidden spot somewhere in your house where he can go
peacefully! Again, thats not what we want. Calm and vigilance are
your best allies when housetraining your dog.
DONT walk your dog to have him eliminated. A walk should be a
reward for eliminating quickly not the other way around. Believe me,
your walks will become longer and longer once your dog will have
figured out that eliminating means the end of the walk. He will
suddenly be able to hold it for miles!
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DONT let your dog roam freely in the house until he is completely
and reliably housetrained. Thats one of the most common mistakes
new owners make. Remember, a dog wont soil his leaving quarters,
thats why youll use both types of confinements. Later, once your
puppy has learned to control his bladder and that the designated place
(EZ or TS) is the one and only place acceptable to do his business,
youll be able to let him explore the rest of the house.
DONT praise your dog for eliminating on the paper unless you are
among the very few who will need to paper train their dog. The only
reason I suggest putting paper on the floor is to make it easier for youto pick up the mess. If you dont mind picking up your puppys
gifts directly from the floor, dont hesitate to forget the paper
altogether.
DONT forget that you are dealing with a puppy. He wont
understand what you want until you have taught him in the simplest
way. Thats why I use the seven-step technique. Its easy to follow
and cant be more clear from a dogs point of view.
In the next chapter, A Schedule for Everyone, Ive provided you with an
example of what a typical day would be like during the housetraining phase
of your puppy.
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C H A P T E R 7 : A S C H E D U L E F O R E V E R Y O N E
Getting a puppy doesnt mean that you have to change your lifestyle
completely. What is important for your puppy is consistency. There is no
doubt that adhering to a strict schedule in the beginning will speed up your
puppys housetraining progress. If you cant follow a rigid schedule, it will
take a bit longer, but youll get there dont worry.
A Housetraining Day in your Puppys LifeLets now see what a day in your puppys life should be like when you are
housetraining him.
6:30 Get your puppy out of his crate, put his leash on and walk with him to
the elimination zone or toilet stop. Dont say a word. When he starts
peeing, use your command word. Once hes finished, praise him
lavishly and wait for him to defecate. When he starts to poop use your
command word again. Once hes finished, praise him as if he just
found a pot of gold! Play with your dog for a couple of minutes.Bring him back in the house.
6:45 Let him play in his domain.
7:15 Feed your dog and give him some water.
7:30 Bring your puppy to his elimination zone (EZ) or toilet stop (TS).
Once he has eliminated, praise and play with your dog and bring him
back in the house.
7:45 Let your puppy play in his domain.
8:00 Confine your puppy in his domain if you leave for the day or in his
crate if you are at home.
10:00 (for people at home) Give your puppy some water then bring him to
his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with your dog.
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Let him play in his domain for half an hour and confine him to his
crate.
Noon (for people at home) Get your puppy out of his crate and bring him to
his designated place for elimination. Let him play in the kitchen for
15 to 30 minutes then feed him and give him water.
12:15 (for people at home) Give your puppy some water then bring him to
his EZ or TS again. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with him.
Let him play in his domain for half an hour and confine him to his
crate.
2:00 p.m. (for people at home) Give your puppy some water then bringhim to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, praise and play
with your dog. Let him play in his domain for half an hour and
confine him to his crate.
4:00 p.m. (for people at home) Give your dog some water and bring him
to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with
your dog. Let him play in his domain for half an hour and
confine him to his crate.
6:00 p.m. Hopefully, all of you will be home by now. So, the moment you
come back home bring your puppy to his elimination zone or
toilet stop. Once he has eliminated, praise and play with your
dog. Bring him back in the house.
6:15 p.m. Let your dog play and watch all the action in the kitchen from
his domain. This is a perfect time to have a training session.
Your puppy will be hungry and eager to learn. Dont hesitate to
use a portion of his food ration as rewards. With 15 kibbles, you
can practice 8 downs and 7 sits, all in less than 5 minutes!
6:30 p.m. Put your puppy in his crate and give him his meal.
6:45 p.m. Let your puppy drink and bring him to his EZ or TS. Once he
has eliminated, play with your dog and bring him back in his
domain.
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8:45 p.m. Bring your puppy to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated,
praise and play with your dog. Put him in his domain.
11:00 p.m. One last trip to his EZ or TS. Once he has eliminated, play with
your dog briefly and confine him to his crate for the night.
This is a general estimate. Keep the lapse of time between activities the
same and you shouldnt have any problem. Also, use the blank schedule
provided as Bonus 1 to determine your puppys elimination habits, and
simply adjust this schedule accordingly.
As you can see, all you have to do is to be consistent. Your puppy will grow
up and the trips to the EZ and TS will become less frequent.
The speed of your puppys housetraining progress depends a lot on the
number of times you can bring him to his EZ or TS during a day.
Some Pieces of Advice for Full Time WorkersFirst, try to get up 15 minutes earlier. This will allow you to accomplish two
things: a) play longer with your puppy so hell sleep probably through the
morning and b) youll have time to bring him to his EZ or TS one more time
before leaving for work.
Second, I encourage you to ask a neighbor to come by at least once duringthe day to bring your puppy to his EZ or TS. You can also hire a pet-sitter.
If none of these options are possible, its not the end of the world but expect
to have some cleaning up to do when youll come back home.
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More Tips
A l l is i n t h e b on dDont hesitate once your dog has eliminated to use the physical bond
explained in chapter 4 to keep your puppy close to you. This reinforces the
bond and helps create a strong relationship between you two.
For example, you can easily have your puppy play with his chew toy at your
feet while youre reading a book, responding to your emails or watching TV.
You dont have to worry that hell make a mistake since hes tied to you.
Y a h o o ! T h e w eek en d
You may have noticed that the blank schedule that I gave you as Bonus 1 is
a seven-day schedule. In other words, the housetraining schedule of your
puppy wont change because its the weekend. If hes used to get up at
6 oclock during the week, you can be pretty sure that hell also wake up
around that time during the weekend.
T i m in g i s ev er y t h in g
From the beginning, Ive told you about the importance of predicting when
your puppy will need to eliminate and Ive provided you with a blank
schedule to help you with this task.
Maybe you are asking yourself: why is it so important that I write down my
puppys elimination habits? Because timing is everything! Some dogs will
defecate 5 minutes after eating, others 10, 15, 30 minutes later.
In order for you to know when your puppy will need to defecate, you first
have to keep a log of his habits. Lets say for example that you have
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