1

Nick WoosterA men’s style expert on personal style, Tumblr and working as “a well-informed soundboard”

A journal of refineMENt

STYLE, SHOPPING, TRAVEL, WINE,

WATCHES,INTERIORS,PROFILES.

issue # 1, December 2011

2

3

59- FASHION

82- GROOMING - Face Lifts, investigated by Gabriel Weil

84- COACHING - The Ultimate Upgrade, by Angus Fletcher

22

5452

36

CONTENTS

12- SHOPPING - Tortoiseshell eyewear, christmas presents, accessories

16- PROFILE - Nick Wooster, by Gabriel Weil

23- Q&A - George Paul Arab on mens fashion today

24- INTERIORS - A flat that is a mirror of its owner, by Gabriel Weil

26- TRAVELLING - Paris for a weekend, by Gabriel Weil

30- WINE - California, by David Organisak

34- TRAVELLING - The Glamorous Explorers, by Gabriel Weil

38- VINTAGE - Vintage Watches as the way forward, by Gabriel Weil

44- PROFILE - David Frampton, by Gabriel Weil

54- DRINKING - Dry Martini, by Gabriel Weil

4

5

W

-

-

-

-

-

PROPER EDITOR’S LETTER

Editor’s Letter

6

ANGUS FLETCHER is a coach known for his natural style that combines humour with the ability to get to the nub of the issue however uncomfortable it may be to face. His clients include international non-pro!t organisations, UK prisons and Schools. He wrote ""e Ultimate Upgrade" based on his own observa-tions, especially for PROPER.

DAVID ORGANISAK is a Los An-geles based wine importer, food and wine blogger, and self-avowed foodie and wine geek as well as travel addict. He shares his expertise on California Vino-Tourism. wineguyla@gmail.com

GABRIEL MARQUE’S is a multimedia artist. Currently based in Sao Paulo, Brazil. His work ranges from illustration to graphic design, art direction and animation to tattoos. He's the illustrator of this issue's Nick Wooster cover.

CHRISTOPHER AGIUS BURKE, comes from the tiny island of Malta.# Stumbling across photography accidentally after a bad romantic breakup, his passion for photography grew as he experimented with vari-ous forms of image making.# Based in London he now works pre-dominantly in fashion and portrait photography. He photographed Dominic O' Flynn in our fashion spread "Appointment".

RAYMOND TAN'S TRACEY SUEN

CONTRIBUTORS

9

prop·er adj.

1. Characterized by appropriateness or suitability; fitting: the proper knife for

cutting bread; not a proper moment for a joke.

2. Called for by rules or conventions; correct:

the proper form for a business letter.

3. Strictly following rules or conventions, especially in social behavior; seemly:

a proper lady; a proper gentleman.

4.

a. Belonging to one; own: restored to his proper shape by the magician.

b. Characteristically belonging to the being or thing in question; peculiar:

an optical effect proper to fluids.

5. Being within the strictly limited sense, as of a term designating something:

the town proper, excluding the suburbs.

6. Ecclesiastical for use in the liturgy of a particular feast or season of the year.

7. Mathematics of or relating to a subset of a given set when the set has at least

one element not in the subset.

8. Worthy of the name; true: wanted a proper dinner, not just a snack.

9. Out-and-out; thorough: a proper whipping.

(prõp ’ r)e

10

11

12

PROPER SHOPPING

TORTOISESHELL

Horn-rimmed spectacles were made popular by comedian Harold Lloyd in his movies around 1917. This made glasses a fashion item rather than just an utility device. After this, tor-toiseshell or horn rims (which are really made from plastic), were the finishing touch of legendary fashion moments.

1.

4.

7.

2.

5.

3.

6.

1. OLIVER PEOPLES; 2. OLIVER PEOPLES; 3. BARTON PERREIRA; 4. TOM FORD; 5. PERSOL; 6. OLIVER PEOPLES; 7. PERSOL. from OPTICIANS NATIONWIDE.

13

PROPER SHOPPING

ACCESORIES

1. Wallet, BOTTEGA VENETA; 2. Wallet, LOUIS VUITTON; 3. Wallet, HERMÈS; 4. Bag in woven leather available in di$erent versions and colours, from £1,440, BOTTEGA VENETA; 5. “Steve” bag in smooth taurillon leather, price upon request, HERMÈS; 6. Bag in “Utah” leather with aged !nish hardware, £1680, LOUIS VUITTON; 7. Cu%inks in brushed white gold, ANTONIO BERNARDO; 8. Silver cu%inks, HERMÈS; 9. Cu%inks in textured silver, BOTTEGA VENETA; 10. Cu%inks in Swarowski crystal and metal, LANVIN; 11. Cu%inks in oxidised silver; BOTTEGA VENETA.

4.

7.

3.1.

5.

8.

10.

2.

6.

9.

11.

14

1.Briefcase, LOUIS VUITTON. 2. Tie, CHARVET. 3. Etrivière Belt, HERMÈS. 4.Charles Eames chair, KNOLL. 5.Watch, PATEK PHILIPPE. 6.Gregory Peck spectators, OLIVER PEOPLES. 7.Victoria weekend bag, HERMÈS. 8.William II Shoes, JOHN LOBB. 9.Coat, BAND OF OUTSIDERS. 10.Spark jumper, S.N.S-HERNING. 11.Range Rover, LAND ROVER.

MY HOLIDAY WISH LIST:

1.

4.

7.

2.

5.

8.

3.

6.

9.

10. 11.

PROPER SHOPPING

15

1. Kelly clutch in crocodile by HERMÈS. 2.Bone cu$ in gold, TIFFANY & CO. 3.Greer pumps, J.CREW. 4.Edith coat, STELLA MCCARTNEY. 5.Golden Stones rings in gold, crystal and diamonds, H. STERN. 6.Kosslyn sunglasses, OLIVER PEOPLES. 7.Nautilus watch in rose gold and diamonds, PATEK PHILIPPE. 8.Golden Retriever puppy. 9.BRNO chair, KNOLL. 10.Tribute Sandals, YVES SAINT LAURENT. 11. Belt, HERMÈS.

HERS:

4.

7.

3.1.

5.

8.

10.

2.

6.

9.

11.

PROPER SHOPPING

NickWoosterWords by GABRIEL WEILN

PROPER PROFILE

17

18

Fashion insiders tend to be more con-scious about what they wear than most people. To unfamiliar eyes, however, some of them may seem too extreme, too creative or too fussy. "ese carefully dressed individuals are often easy to classify, label and group, but they have things to teach when it comes to style. In a league of his own is veteran Nick Wooster. With a dauntless, yet elegant approach to style, this Manhattan-based menswear expert is the ultimate masculine style icon. He’s also object of cult of the ever-growing universe of street style blogs and its followers. Whether classically or rebelliously suited, Wooster, once described as a “sartorial badass”, never ceases to impress observers with his experiments in proportion, colour and pattern. Nevertheless, as bold as they may be, Wooster’s choices never sacri!ce precise tailoring, masculinity or appropriateness. In full control of both the rebel and the classic gentleman within himself, he masters matching tie and shirt combos, blazer and shorts, cropped suits and leopard print trousers among others. His shoes are often stylised brogues that perform an extra function: “I always look for thick soled shoes to add an inch to my height. A 5’7” midget like me has to”, he exaggerates. In addition, his hairstyle is youthful, suitable and classic, his facial hair is impeccably groomed, his collection of classic shades shade without masking, and accessories are carefully picked. Rebelliousness, as his multicoloured, fully tattooed arms and partially inked legs might come across, didn’t happen in his teens or early twenties as it usually happens, but in his early thirties. “I got my !rst tattoo at thirty-three, in 1993. I !nished my sleeves in 2008 and I started the legs in 2009. "e legs are the only part I regret, because it was an extremely painful experience.” He also started smoking at age 31, when most regret having started

PROPER PROFILE

19

in the !rst place. “I know it’s stupid, but that’s just me”, he jokes. Without a doubt, there’s much to learn from a man that had already wised up before making the regrettable choices of life. His ability to use fashion to create a character who oozes elegance, has an air of mystery and breaks convention is a true talent. “I’m a midget who is known for dressing well, but I don’t think my ability to dress myself is very remarkable.” Nick’s superpower is an “eye” and a remarkable skill of synthesising what he sees, converting stimuli or imagery inspiration into fashion editing. “I don’t have an original idea. I was given a good !lter at birth and I have my mum and dad to thank for it”. It’s from this exercise of style that both his personal and professional success come from.

“An editorial eye for retailers” is how he describes his job. Beyond buying clothes from designers and discovering new talents, it’s his job to ensure the merchandise mix will make sense and stimulate his increasingly jaded consumer. “At the end of the day, it’s only a rack of clothes. What makes the di$erence is the story you tell with it. It’s all about information. I’m a well-informed sound board”, he explains. "is includes de!ning visual merchandising, mix of products, colours, shapes and turning it all into a concept that will make the retailer sell by telling the right story. High responsibility, no doubt. Over the past three decades Nick’s talent has served prestigious designers such as John Bartlett, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, given him the job of men’s fashion director for Neiman Marcus/Bergdorf Goodman, and his current similar position at the Gilt Group. Internet visibility, however, has happened on the last few years, and according to him, is resumed to a universe of fashion followers. “I’m not recognised at the grocery store, for example, but I’ll have people approach me when I’m shopping for clothes. It’s very funny, but super &attering”

PROPER PROFILE

20

“I don’t think my ability to dress myself is very re-markable.”

21

Wooster’s scrapbook is available online on his Tumblr page (http://nickelsonwooster.tumblr.com). With a collection of imagery that ranges from cars to people, interiors, or just graphic design, he’s one of many who share his inspiration with blog followers. Lately, Tumblr has become one of his favourite activities. “I’m obsessed with Tumblr. It’s easy, it puts me in touch with what other people think, and it’s a great way to build an inspiration board.” As inspiring as his pro!le may seem, remember not to try it at home. Wooster is impossible to recreate. More than a lesson in style, he’s an example of individuality, and should inspire other gentlemen to become their own soundboards.

Where did you grow up?“In Salina, Kansas, it was perfect.”

Which is your drink?“I don’t drink, so I’ll have iced co!ee or club soda with cranberry juice.”

What do you like to eat?“Steak.”

What do you drive?“I don’t have a car right now, but I had a BMW when I lived in LA. I’d drive a Range Rover now. You know, for the height.”

Do you work out?“Yes. Six times a week if I’m in the zone.”

What’s the worst possible look for a man?“I’ll give you a PC (politically correct) answer: It’s not about money. Some people spend a fortune on designer things that don’t go together. Jeans and t-shirt can look great.”

Do you shop online?“Yes, for groceries, for example. But for other things, I love the thrill of "nding them physi-cally.”

PROPER,PROFILE

All the pictures are reproductions of street style blogs.

22

23

What is your work uniform?I don’t have one. Lately I’ve been wearing made-to-measure Gucci and forgot about the fashion pieces.

What’s hot in menswear right now?I’ve been watching the success of these mid-market french brands in Paris over the past 5 years. Zadig et Voltaire, #e Kooples, etc., which are now what Agnès B. was 20 years ago: a stylish mid-range brand. #ey’re selling incredibly well to BOBOs in Paris and beginning to go abroad. #en, of course, you have the client that will go for designers for status or quality.

Where do men get their fashion information from these days?I’d say from fashion magazines, but they’re in a ter-rible moment. I guess it depends on the group of men. Billboards and advertising in general. In Europe you’ll see many men getting their fashion information from their partners, wives, girlfriends, with whom they often shop.

Who is the best dressed man in the world?I hate best dressed lists. I mean, they’re ridiculous! I de"nitely don’t believe in them. But, if I had to choose, I’d say Lapo Elkann is one of the best dressed men in the world. And the best dressed men are the Italians. In Milan, or in Florence, where they’re more of a BCBG kind.

George Paul Arab in London, September, 2011 blazer, GUCCI. Photo by RAYMOND

George Paul Arab"e Paris-based Gucci’s worldwide training manager on style, retail and fashion magazines:

PROPER Q&A

24

HAT theWALLS SAYWords by GABRIEL WEIL

Clockwise from top right: Emeco Navy chairs and the corner "replace in the living-room; glass tesserae in the bathroom; the kitchen where everything is at hand and ceramic vases against the mirrored entrance hall walls.

All p

hotos

are c

ourte

sy of

Robe

rto N

egret

e Int

erior

es.

WChildhood memories, unexplained crushes and a bar hidden behind books in a flat that is both functional and autobiographical.

PROPER INTERIORS

25

The Jardins area lies between downtown and the highest-end residential neighbourhood of Sao Paulo. Commercially and residentially desirable, it’s the address of sought-after shops and restaurants and the strategic home of many who belong to the social, cultural and trendy core of the metropolis. Located at the heart of Jardins, interior designer Roberto Negrete’s &at and home o'ce is immaculate without being precious. Shared by himself and his cat, and constantly receiving friends, colleagues and clients, it’s a work of distinctive design and functionality.

“...objects of my childhood

home, revisited, of course.” Negrete has built the space from scratch, radically changing the &at plan of a 1950s apartment later remodelled on a 1980s loft of Japanese inspiration. “It was a very peculiar design that didn’t meet my needs. I needed two suites and a more spacious social area.” He needed more than that. Self-knowledge enthusiast and passionate professional, Negrete sought to fully express himself; which he lets out when commenting on the rooms of his &at: “I think all of them are well-resolved. Each serves its purpose. "e sink in the bathroom allows me to witness the sunrise coming through the bedroom window; the living room wall that embraces the

entertainment centre, the !replace, and the library that hides the bar.” On the practical side, he also loves the way the kitchen allows for quick meals and has every appliance at hand. "e owner takes pride in how the space respects his “historical repertoire”. “Light coloured wooden &oors, mirrors, glass tesserae…objects of my childhood home, revisited, of course.” He talks about the prevalence of an introspective search, not for trends, but for what makes him feel good. Rather than displaying fashions of the volatile interior design industry, Negrete’s &at is about embracing what, throughout the years, has built his aesthetic character. Uninformed visitors notice the unpretentious, yet curated display of attractive furniture and objects, from which he points out his favourites: “At the entrance hall, the glass shell !xed to the mirrors, loaded with ceramic vases that I have an unexplainable crush on, the Guglielmo Ulrich chairs in the living room, made by Italian manufacturers Matteo Grassi, and the white work on acrylic over canvas at the entrance hall of the bedrooms.” Other harmoniously placed charming picks such as the nonchalant Emeco navy chairs in the dining room subvert any sense of the untouchable. It’s a place to live in. “"e idea was to let time do its work. To !ll the walls with more art, which curdles the tables and shelves with objects and memories, and stacks of books and magazines occupy more and more space. "e place exists, and for sure, time passes.”

#e living-room and the Guglielmo Ulrich chairs, among the designer’s favourite features.

PROPER INTERIORS

26

Week-end à PARISWords by GABRIEL WEIL

PROPER TRAVELLING

27

Eurostar’s Central London to Central Paris journey is almost painless. It makes the French capital the perfect destination for a weekend getaway. On paper. Cultural di$erences and peculiarities, however, might make this experience something close to a nightmare. Proper asked native Parisians for advice on how to deal with issues that make Paris a less than welcoming city. "e questionnaire was anonymous, allowing our Parisians to be entirely honest about their hometown. "e !rst and almost ubiquitous comment was that Parisians don’t like it when you speak English: “We’re sel!sh and egocentric. We speak only French.” If you happen not to speak French, you’re likely to upset the locals, and they’re likely to roll their eyes at you. "ere’s no way out of this one, so just keep it in mind.

“Everything is irritating. We’re mean...” Don’t forget that despite its beauty and high touristic appeal, Paris is a big, busy capital like many others. Just as in any other large city, tourist activity can really irritate the locals when they’re simply minding their own business. Here’s some things they pointed out: “Don’t talk in a loud voice,” especially when you’re at a table. Spaces are small, acoustics are bad, and a loud, drunken foreigner can be irritating in such a setting. "e concept of “pub behaviour” doesn’t apply to their culture. Also, “Don’t bump into people” and “Don’t walk slowly on the sidewalks.” It’s OK for them to bump into you because theyw’re busy getting on with their lives. You, on the other hand, are merely spending money, helping to move their economy and admiring the beauty of their city. “Everything is irritating. We’re mean!” If they say so… However careful you are, you may bump into an unfriendly

local. It could be a waiter, a taxi driver, a sales clerk or just a random citizen. So what to do when a Parisian is less than kind to you? "e few helpful Parisians we could !nd came up with di$erent antidotes to their own poison: “Give them a big smile and tell them they’re right” was the civilised, sensible one; “Just ignore them and look down your nose at them” is for those who feel the need to show some dissatisfac-tion. And for those who will lose sleep over an episode of this sort, “Be even more unpleasant. Parisians love to be abused!” It’s even said that they can be snippy with one another, so be aware that what you may perceive as rudeness might be no more than their own normal “man-ners”. Due to their own prejudices, tourists are also entirely to blame for any disappointments when visiting a foreign city. Parisians despair at some touristic preconceptions, such as: “Paris is a romantic city.” It’s certainly beautiful, seductive and dazzling, but don’t count on Paris to inject romance into your life. You’ll be disappointed if you go to Paris to fall in love and just wind up getting irritated with the waiter. More direct and personal statements such as “Our women do not depilate”, “We don’t shower, we just use perfume to disguise the smell” or “Cheating on our partners is part of our culture” are nothing but urban legends, according to them.

"ey have also stated that it’s not true that “in Paris you eat and drink well anywhere.” Again, like any other touristic city, Paris is full of traps. However, our lovely locals were kind enough to share some of their own favourite brasseries, where they do eat and drink well, o$ the touristic circuit.

“Parisians love to be abused.”

PROPER TRAVELLING

28

BRASSERIESLa Fontaine de Mars, “it’s trop bon, with typical décor.”129 Rue Saint-Dominique75007 Paris, France(33) 1 47 05 46 44

Balzar, “Good cuisine, and a mix of French intellectu-als and chic foreigners.”49 Rue des Ecoles75005 Paris, France(33) 1 43 54 13 67

Chez Flottes, “For its proximity to Rue Cambon and Place de la Concorde.”2 Rue Cambon75001 Paris, France(33) 1 42 60 80 89

Chez Paul, “You enter through an old confectioners. "ey dish up food specialties served in the south west by a really kind rugby player.”13 Rue Charonne75011 Paris, France(33) 1 47 00 34 57

Le Loir dans la !éière, “Lunch and tea only, this is a great café, with an interesting crowd.”3, Rue des Rosiers75004 Paris, France(33) 1 42 72 90 61

PROPER TRAVELLING

CLICHÉS TO wPère Lachaise cemetery, with famous graves such as Jim Morrison’s, Edith Piaf ’s and Marcel Proust’s. It can be a draining tour, since it’s such a large graveyard that you have to visit with the help of a map, a little like treasure hunting. Sacré Coeur de Paris, because even if you’re not into church visiting, the view of the city makes it all worth the hike.Bateau-Mouche tour, for many, the best way to see Paris, with a unique view from the Seine.!e Louvre, select an area of your interest and stick to it. You cannot do the entire museum in one visit.Palais Royal, lovely place with shops and galleries in the heart of Paris.Notre Dame, because you can’t escape it.!e Marais, for shops, bakeries and people-watching. Great on Sundays.Tuileries Gardens, Paris’s Hyde Park.Alexandre III bridge, one of the most beautiful sights in Paris. Don’t just see it from the taxi.

CAFÉS La Palette, where stylish locals gather for typically Parisian happy hours.43 Rue de Seine75006 Paris(33) 1 43 26 68 15

Ferdi, for the apéritif.32 Rue du Mont "abor75001 Paris, France(33) 1 42 60 82 52

Sans Souci, “where there are no tourists, only BOBOs.”65 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle75009 Paris, France(33) 1 48 74 37 28

When in Paris...

30

I have often found that the best learning experiences I have ever had came when I immersed myself in a subject. It was painful when those subjects were less pleasurable than the world of food and wine. “Computational Linear Algebra” and “Probability and Statistics” are far less “palatable” subjects than “"e Wine and Food of Burgundy or Piedmont.” My travels to various countries have been very important to me when trying to understand the wines made in those regions. It’s essential to take in the climate (whatever time of year one chooses), the sunlight, the slope (or lack thereof ) of the vineyards, the soils (white and limestoney, or red and clay-like, or perhaps pebbly. Let us also not forget the people, the cuisine, and the cheeses of the regions (especially in Europe). "is is aimed at those uninitiated wine lovers who would like to learn more about wine by choosing a country or region geared to tourists who like wine that also fun and easy to explore. In future columns I will touch on regions that require a bit more e$ort in terms of research, planning and arranging visits to wineries to get the most out of one’s travels. In those regions, you need to let the soul of the area envelope you in order to be able to appreciate each wine and dif-

ferentiate between wines with soul and those that are “soul-less”. "e wines that follow are more naturally predisposed to welcoming wine lovers and wine-tourists. Many countries and wine regions have recognised both the marketing and economic potential of vino-tourism. California has set the standard, and, for better or worse, it is being copied the world over. When I visit a modern Chateau in Bordeaux (France) or a Bodega in Spain or Argentina, all I can think of is, “How very California of them!” And though I have never been, I hear the same of wineries in Australia that have also been developing that standard for years now. Regions around the world that were among the !rst to em-brace this user-friendly style of vino-tourism are those that naturally have a lot of wine to sell and money behind them to do so to attract customers. "at is, publicity in any form, including regional tourism, helps bring brand awareness to their wines. "ink Napa (California), Mendoza (Argentina), Bordeaux and Champagne (France), Rioja (Spain), Piedmont (Italy), or Australia and Barolo(just wait until you see some of the splashy facilities there).

CALIFORNIAwords by DAVID ORGANISAK

Vino-Tourism where it started

PROPER WINE

31

Vino-Tourism where it started

CALIFORNIA Let us start where it all probably started. "e most fruitful trip to California to explore wine would be one that includes visits to three distinctive, though disparate, regions: Napa, Sonoma and the Central Coast.

NAPA Since its epoch, Napa has been set up to handle visitors, and it does so with aplomb (at times a little too much aplomb). "e region is known for its busy tasting rooms and !rst-rate tours of rather impressive, if not dishearteningly large, wine-making facilities. "ere are the exceptions to these rules, but many of those wineries make it di'cult to wangle a private tour. But for the most part, you can spend a very pleasurable four to !ve days exploring (tasting, eating and sight-seeing) your way through the Napa Valley. In the town of Yountville is the French Laundry, considered by some to be the best restaurant in America. You might even be fortunate enough to land a reservation. Otherwise, there are plenty of other extracurricular activities to keep one busy, such as mud baths in Calistoga or a hot-air balloon ride over the vineyards.

"ere are good examples of wineries producing large quanti-ties of wines while vying for the attention of visitors to the region. "e !rst two are outstanding references of the heights of architecture in wine regions:

OPUS ONE A joint venture between the aristocracy of French and Cali-fornian wine-makers/families: the Rothschilds and the Mondavis, (http://www.opusonewinery.com/)

QUINTESSA Founded by the aristocracy of Chilean wines, the Huneus family. One of the most beautiful properties in Napa as well as one of the most impressive wineries. Designed by the San Francisco archi-tectural !rm of Walker Warner and opened in 2002, it is a “quintes-sential” modern facility. (http://www.quintessa.com)

ROBERT SINSKEY O$ the beaten path in more ways than one. Here one !nds delicious crafted wines made from other than the standard Bordeaux varietals grown in the Napa Valley. Besides Merlot and Cabernet

PROPER WINE

Opus One’s modern installations

32

Sauvignon, at Sinskey you will !nd a range of wines made from Caber-net Franc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. Here, as well, the wines can be tasted along with the delicious seasonal fare served from their kitchen on the property. (http://www.robertsinskey.com/)

SONOMA When heading north out of San Francisco, I have found this to be the region that I gravitate towards for two reasons. First, it feels more laid back and friendly; less bling and more soul. Second, the wines produced here are predominantly from Pinot Noir, Zinfan-del and Chardonnay (versus mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay in Napa). "e wineries in this region have a tendency to be smaller, and hence, for me, at times provide a more genuine and intimate experience than some of the wineries in Napa.

KISTLER VINEYARDS A name perhaps synonymous with the success and reputa-tion of !nely crafted Sonoma Valley wines. http://www.kistlervine-yards.com/home/

SWAN A small winery and one that begins to give you more of a feel for what to expect from Sonoma; and, frankly, perhaps more like the less tourism-centric wine regions of Europe. Stop to taste delicious Pinots and Zinfandels. http://w ww.swanwinery.com/wine.php

Here are two interesting stops that you may want to make while there:

Copain Wine Cellars - http://www.copainwines.com/Williams-Selyem Winery - http://williamsselyem.com/

I am going to throw the following ones in as a bonus, for these may be considered a bit more geeky or “boutiquey” than the wineries I’ve listed so far. But you should try to stop in if you are in the Northern Sonoma area (I’m not really a Zin guy, but these two make some wonderful Zinfandels):

A. Rafanelli Winery http://arafanelliwinery.com/Ridge Lytton Springs Winery http://www.ridgewine.com/index.taf

PROPER WINE

A map of the Californian wine country

33

THE GLAMOROUS EXPLORERSAdventure in beautiful classic cars and high luxe, worldwide tourism is actually someone’s job.

Words by GABRIEL WEIL

PROPER TRAVELLING

35

Jonathon Lyons is a long-time classic cars enthusiast and a Bentley collector. In his collection are a rally-prepared 1953 R-Type Continental and a 1938 Derby all-weather tourer with coachwork by Vandem Plas, formerly owned by the late King of Jordan. Also a passionate traveller, he has explored the world in his classic motorcars. Lyons’s combination of interests resulted in his founding of “"e Jewel Events”, an organisation that promotes luxury lifestyle car events. "ese are better described as high-luxe rallies, in which participants drive their vehicles through carefully designed routes in di$erent countries or regions throughout the planet. "ese trips allow for both enjoyment of driving and uniquely luxurious exploring, with outstand-ing sightseeing, gala events and gastronomic experiences. "e select group of participants is composed of keen world travellers gathered by their passion for old cars, “with an organisation that they have grown to trust, which gives them as good as they can get, and relieves them of the responsibility of organising it themselves”, as Lyons describes it. “"e cars, although a very important criteria, are second to the people that apply. We have, I am thrilled to say, a won-

derful collection of both joining the events. "ere is no other organisa-tion that presents lifestyle car events that is anywhere near our quality,” Trust comes from a reputation gained from impeccable organisation. "e routes are carefully researched for the best hotels, restaurants and tourist spots. “If we believe in our formula, we then have road books designed to take us to these places on the most scenic roads,” he explains. Although limitations in sophistication in some countries or regions are taken into account, he won’t book anything that is less than the best. "e pampered adventurers are catered for with baggage service hotel to hotel, full mechanical team back-up following the last vehicle, the best hotels and venues organised in advance, not to mention “special surprises” en route. “"e Jewel "at Is Europe I” left from the Chateau de Montfort, in France, to arrive at the Grand Finale Gala Dinner held at the Palazzo Ducale di Monforte, near the Amal! Coast, in Italy. Participants got to experience the best features of the explored regions, such as the tasting of black tru%es and foie gras in the French Region of Périgord, plus historic sightseeing throughout the trip.

PROPERTRAVELLING

"e Jewel that is Jordan,courtesy of "e Jewel Events

36

In 2007, "e Jewel Events produced “"e Jewel "at Is China”, a pioneering event of the sort in the cournty. "e tour from Shanghai to Beijing was held by request of the Chinese government. Participants enjoyed a private gala dinner held in the Great Hall of the People and the !rst test showing of the 2008 Olympic !rework display. In 2008, “"e Jewel "at Is Europe II” started in Beaulieu-Sur-Mer and !nished once again at the Palazzo Ducale, with a black tie dinner given by the Princess Pignatelli di Strongoli. Guests overlooked the Bay of Naples from the rooftop of the Palace. It all started in 2003, when Lyons organised “"e Jewel "at Is Jordan”, in which 44 rare classic cars set o$ from the Red Sea port of Aqaba to explore the country. “It was done as a one-o$ (so I thought) event to honour my friend the late King Hussein of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan and to show the world what a haven of peace Jor-dan was in this troubled area,” he says. "e great success of the event, and several requests for more, led in 2005 to “"e Jewel "at Is Jordan II”, followed by III and IV in subsequent years. “We’ve had cars twice outside the treasury at Petra. Two weeks after the last occasion, Petra

became one of the seven wonders of the world,” Lyons says. Nearly all participants have personally been presented to "eir Majesties and to other members of the royal family. “It was never intended to become an almost full-time occupation – a description I prefer to ‘business’. It simply became a question of supply and demand.” To Lyons, the participants are more than clients. “"ey seem now to select us and a hard core of the participants have become friends and family.” Often with encores due to demand, routes such as London-Cape Town; Liège-Rome-Liège; Monte Carlo Classic; Copa Milano; and Lands End-John O’ Groats also took place, as well as visits to the Oktoberfest. "roughout the years, as is easy to imagine, Lyons has col-lected several memorable moments, and he hesitates to point out the most special: “Perhaps Her Majesty Queen Rania dropping by in a helicopter to greet the Jewel Participants without their knowledge at the sight where Jesus was baptised, in Jordan.” When asked about his dream route – one that he hasn’t yet, but would love to explore – Lyons is enthusiastically indecisive: “I have so many! Watch this space.”

PROPER TRAVELLING

"e Classic Motor Cars, courtesy of "e Jewel Events

37

38

The best of Vintage Watches words by GABRIEL WEILGOING BACK IN TIME

PROPER VINTAGE

1960s 18K Gold ROLEX OYSTER: qualityvintagetimepieces.com

39

The best of Vintage Watches words by GABRIEL WEIL

-

-

-

-

PROPER VINTAGE

PATEK PHILLIPE from the 1940s in 18K gold: plaza57.com

40

-

-

-

-

PROPER VINTAGE

41Early 1950s LeCoultre Futurematic, with extra complications.

PROPER VINTAGE

42

1956 Universal Genève with full calendar, chronometer and moon phases

43

-

-

-

-

-

PROPERVINTAGE

A 1949 Rolex advert

44

PROPER PROFILE

“IT’S ALL GOOD...”David Frampton on acting, modelling and living life to the fullest.

Words and Fashion by GABRIEL WEILPhotography by RAYMOND TAN

45

Coat by PRADA.

46

Actor David Frampton is John Kelly, in Sing J. Lee's First the Bird Fell, a 2011 short !lm being shown in festivals through-out Europe. He plays a retired runner in the process of remembering his past. "We shot in Wales for four days. It rained non-stop, it was freaking cold and I was wearing a vest and shorts most of the time", he remembers with a laugh. 2011 has been a year of intense work for Frampton, who just got back from Turkey, where he starred in another short movie. ""e place was beautiful and I was treated like a prince." "e 34 year-old actor studied acting back at home, in Northamptonshire, at age 17. It was a three-year course he left six months early to move to London. "e move led to a number of experi-ences that he remembers with a grim: "I worked as carpenter, delivery man, and managed bars and clubs in Chelsea." "en came model-ling, which took him around the world and, as he puts it, "was stupid money for hardly doing anything." David modelled for several years to follow, until, three years ago, he decided to go back to his true passion of acting. All his life experience was key to shape the actor he is now. "I don't know how these kids that come straight from acting school do it without experience to draw from", he comments.

Acting is in the family. David's father was an actor at the Royal Shakespeare Company, time during which a young David could watch stage performances, which, according to him, gave him a clear idea of what he wanted to do for a living since very early in life. He's been working in commercial movies, feature !lms and !lm editorials, and is loving every new job. About the roles he plays, he comments:

“My talent really lies in evil. I play lots of psychos and bad guys." He’s looking forward to experimenting with roles of di$er-ent sorts: “I’d like to play someone vulnerable, an outcast, disabled… I want to go for the whole spectrum.” David is enjoying himself like never before. “To me, every-thing just seems to &ow. I used to be a pessimist, looking for the bad in everything. Now I’m happy all the time. I’ve realised there’s no bad. It’s all good.”

PROPERPROFILE

47

Coat from a selection. Trousers by PRADA, scarf by BURBERRY.

48

49

Military shirt from a vintage shop, about £10. Watch, JAEGER LE COULTRE, circa 1954.

50

51

Jumper by JOHN SMEDLEY, trousers by GIORGIO ARMANI.

52

53

"is page: blazer by GIORGIO ARMANI, jumper by UNIQLO, jeans by LEVI’S. Opposite page: trousers from a SELECTION, shirt by YVES SAINT LAURENT.

DRY MARTINIA few things to know, whether you’re !xing or ordering.

Words by: GABRIEL WEIL

PROPER DRINKING

55

A PROPER DRY MARTINI

"e origin of the dry Martini is unclear. It’s said by some to date from the 1860s, having !rst been served in San Francisco. Others tell the story of a drink !rst served at the Knickerbocker Hotel in New York, in the early 1900s. But this is all absolute trivia. Let’s focus on discovering the secrets of a good Martini. You should know how to make one, even if it’s just to order one properly. "e basic recipe is simple, though the numerous choices make it a bit of a science. "e international Bar Association has de!ned the propor-tions for a dry Martini: 55ml of gin/vodka to 15ml of dry vermouth. It should be mixed with ice in an adequate receptacle, then strained and served straight up in the glass. It’s !nished o$ with a lemon twist or an olive. "is should make an acceptable, basic dry Martini. "ere are, however, di$erent versions of the classic. And, like getting co$ee in the high street, you might face various questions you should be ready to answer. “We ask: Gin or vodka? Twist or olive? and How dry?”, says Marco Ercolano, bar manager at Galvin at Windows, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Hilton on Park Lane.

VERMOUTH

OK, you’re not a bartender, but if you’re asked to prepare an extra-dry Martini, what do you do? "e less vermouth in the drink, the drier it is. “In the US, for example, they like their Martini very dry. "ey’ll add the vermouth to the glass and then throw it away, leaving only traces in the drink. Europeans are more likely to enjoy the taste of the vermouth,” explains Ercolano. Although small in amount, the choice of vermouth can de!ne the quality and style of your drink. Despite having given its name to the famous cocktail, Martini is merely one brand of Italian vermouth, which might or might not be used in t he preparation of a dry Martini. “"ere are di$erent kinds of vermouth. "e often-used French brand Noilly Prat is aged in oak, which gives it a complex, more sophisticated taste,” explains our expert. Passionate bartenders will keep their own secret formula of vermouth and other ingredients in a small dosing bottle. “It’s a secret they don’t share with anyone.”

GIN OR VODKA? HOW TO WORK THE MAIN INGREDIENT.

Vodka or gin can be used to make a dry Martini. It’s about preference. As with the vermouth, when it comes to brands, styles and quality, choice is wide. "ere’s a growing gin trend in the drinks market, with launches from di$erent countries, each with its own twist. G’Vine, a French brand, for example, is crafted from grape spirit, as opposed to grain. It has a distinctive “perfume”, a characteristic taken all the way to the presentation – its bottle looks as if it should contain cologne. For reasons of convention or availability, the traditional, better known brands are still the most used. Whether you’re preparing it with gin or vodka, it’s important to have it properly added to the drink. First of all, it must be chilled. "is is usually done in a mixing glass !lled with ice. Marco explains: “You shouldn’t make circular movements. You should hear the noise of the ice.” According to him, this technique avoids excessive dilution from the melted ice. Dilution is a very important aspect: it shouldn’t add more than 15ml of water to the drink. Marco points out some establish-ments who reduce dilution to zero by replacing the stirring in ice with simply keeping the ingredients in the freezer, a common technique in the UK. “"is changes the consistency of the drink as well. It becomes more viscous.”

THE GLASS

Experiments with glasses are mostly disappointing. You can get dry Martinis in tumblers, wine glasses, and colourful versions of the familiar Martini glass. However, nothing compares to the clas-sic, V-shaped version in which the drink became famous. Size varies too. Americans tend to supersize their Martinis with generous 150ml drinks, whilst the classic size ranges between 100 and 120 ml. At Galvin at Windows, Marco shows the 60ml version, which he calls a single. “It allows for more drinks, keeping the customer sober for longer, and, because it chills faster in a smaller quantity, it allows for less dilution from ice.” "e shape of their glass remains the same.

PROPER DRINKING

56

OLIVE OR TWIST?

"e !nishing touch is key to presentation and adds another possibility of customisation. “We o$er the choice of twist or olive, which are both classic. Some places now serve it with both. It’s a trendy thing now,” says Marco. He points out that other !nishes aren’t as classic, and some might even change the drink to something else. “If you put in an onion, it becomes a Gibson.” "ere are no particular names for those with cucumber slices, oysters or other inventive !nish-ings one can !nd.

SOMETHING FRUITY

Other requests are made by customers. “Women, for example, tend to sit down and ask for a Martini, then ask for a fruity version, with strawberries, for example. Some even ask for a Martini menu. It’s become a style lately, identi!e d by the shape of the glass,” he explains. And there’s nothing wrong with something fruity, as long as you know it’s a far derivative from the real thing.

SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED

James Bond’s “shaken, not stirred” jargon is world-re-nowned. It dates from the 1956 !lm Diamonds Are Forever and has been repeated in subsequent movies of the series. It sounds knowl-edgeable enough, but wouldn’t shaking the gin in the ice increase dilution, !ll the drink with broken ice pieces and result in a milky, less appealing prospect than the clear, elegant original format? No inten-tion of discrediting Mr Bond’s re!nement, but once we’re getting acquainted with the subject, it’s a question worth asking, right?

Sean Connery as James Bond in the 1956 !lm Diamonds are Forever, in which “Shaken, not Stirred”, was used for the !rst time.

PROPER DRINKING

57

58

59

FASHION58 24/7 Photographed by RAYMOND TAN

66 CASUAL Photographed by RAYMOND TAN

74 AFTER 8 Photographed by CHRISTOPHER AGIUS BURKE

Fashion Editor: GABRIEL WEIL

60

61

24/7Edited by GABRIEL WEIL

Photography by RAYMOND TANModelled by MIKE DALE

62

Blazer by GIORGIO ARMANI, shirt by PRADA.

63

Blazer by GIORGIO ARMANI, shirt by CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION.

64

Blazer by YVES SAINT LAURENT, T-shirt by UNIQLO, shoes by LOAKE.

65

Shirt by PRADA, jumper by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, tie by DOLCE & GABBANA.

66

67

Blazer by BRIONI, shirt and tie by GIORGIO ARMANI, cardigan by PRADA, jeans, LEVI'S.

CEdited by GABRIEL WEILPhotography by RAYMOND TAN

Modelled by HUGO WODDIS

Casual

69

Classic "Breton" top by ST. JAMES. Navy trousers by JIL SANDER.

70

Jumper by ZADIG et VOLTAIRE. Jeans by LEVI'S. Sunglasses by PERSOL.

71

Coat by CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION, jeans by LEVI"S and jumper by GUCCI.

72

73

Shirt by THOM BROWNE, Jeans by LEVI"S and shoes by ASOS.

74

"is Page: Blazer by GIORGIO ARMANI, Jumper by GUCCI, Trousers by PRADA.Oppoasite Page: Coat by CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION, Polo Neck by UNIQLO, Jeans by LEVI’S.

75

76

Photographed by Christopher Agius BurkeEdited by Gabriel Weil

Modelled by Dominic O' Flynn

AFTER8

77

AFTER

78

Tweed Jacket, from a selection of vintage, spectacles by OLIVER PEOPLES, polo neck t-shirt by UNIQLO.

79

Jacket by PRADA, polo neck by UNIQLO

80

Blazer by LANVIN, shirt by JIL SANDER

81

82

Among other things, like buttocks workouts and jewel-lery, plastic surgery is being demysti!ed by men. "ey no longer fear hair implants and Botox®, and are slowly learning how satisfactory a facelift can be. Cosmetic surgery has always been a controversial subject, even among women, with some radically against it and others overenthusiastic – which leads to gossip and debate, to say the least. Whilst women have always been more open and less apologetic about it than men – who wouldn’t even discuss the subject – advances and new techniques producing natural, subtle results have been changing

FACE LIFT?It might be time for you to give it a chance words by GABRIEL WEIL

PROPER GROOMING

83

perceptions. "ose who see it as a standard procedure are getting the best out of it. Men have a di$erent approach to cosmetic surgery. "ey want to look younger, rested and healthy, and they seek solutions to match the face with a body maintained by exercise and good diet. Dr. Paulo Muller, a Rio de Janeiro-based plastic surgeon with a 20 percent male clientele, tells how the male approach to surgery changed: “Ten years ago, the men who had their faces operated on were artists or politicians, but today the clientele is much more diverse and includes businessmen and other professionals who do not necessarily work with the public.” "ey, too, have been less afraid of the facelift due to the more natural results achieved recently. According to Dr. Muller, men are di$erent patients from women, who “worry about millimetres”. Less attentive to details, they’re focused on the overall results and do not want to su$er postop-eratively. “Although the technique is the same, the results in men are milder, since they can’t make use of make-up to disguise traces of the surgery.” Among the new techniques and advances in the !eld are local anaesthetics with sedation, which reduce the risks and reduce bleeding. Another improvement is the work in deeper structures of the face, like muscles, which, according to Muller “allows for an internal rejuvenation, and not only of the skin, leading to more natural results”. Technological advances include the thinner liposuction cannulas, which allow for more accurate !nishes on the neck; the treatment of eyelid bags without incisions, through a transconjunctival method; and canthopexy, which lifts and rejuvenates the lateral corner of the eye. As procedures become safer, less invasive and more precise, allowing surgeons to perform more accurately, plastic surgery has been developing into art rather than medicine. Di$erent techniques and procedures are combined to reach the desired results. Most people fear arti!cial, obvious results, which Dr. Muller explains are from badly designed procedures or combinations thereof. “A very important factor for good postoperative results is the correct indication of each technique. "e arti!cial results that we often see are due to several consecutive procedures without appropriate gaps.” He also mentions how creative surgeons achieve better results: “It’s also important the direction of the traction that is the way to pull the tissue, which leads to good results. Of course there is also the creativity of the surgeon, working enough to give a satisfactory result, but not overdoing it, so that the outcome will be di$erent from an “operated” appearance.

"ese are the most common cosmetic procedures sought after by male patients:

FACELIFT

"e traditional facelift (rhytidectomy) is achieved through an incision in front of the ear extending up into the hairline. "e skin is separated from the deeper tissues and the deeper tissues can be tightened with sutures, with or without removing excess. Excess skin is removed (that’s the crucial part, when it’s up to the surgeon to remove just enough, not give the patient the arti!cial look). Incisions are then closed with sutures and staples.

THE EYELIDS

Another classic procedure: the surgery around the eye (blepharoplasty) is the removal and repositioning of fat and skin in the area. Just as in the facelift, muscles and tendons may be reinforced. It can be both functional (to relieve pressure from the upper eyelids) and cosmetic. It can be performed on both upper and lower lids or separately.

NECK LIPOSUCTION

"is is the removal of fat from the neck area through the insertion of a cannula (suction probe) into an incision. It’s often com-bined with excess skin removal in the area.

FOREHEAD

"is surgery can be performed endoscopically, which means without incisions, to lift the end of the eyebrows. It’s also done by direct incisions over the eyebrows.

SURGICAL SKIN TREATMENTS

"e surgical peels (dermabrasion and CO2 laser) will also improve the quality of the skin in severe cases of acne scars.

PROPER GROOMING

84

THE ULTIMATE UPGRADE

The traditional bene!ts of an upgrade may bring a little more legroom, enhanced personal attention or a speedier access to informa-tion. "ese upgrades undoubtedly provide comfort and ease by separating us from the masses and removing the risk of anything unpleasant (God forbid!). Unfortunately, for some, a life in this silky cocoon can create a belief system in which nothing should ever go wrong. A sure sign of this belief system taking hold is witnessing someone freaking out over a lukewarm macchiato. I witnessed a woman beside me in business class go-ing ballistic over a mixed-up special meal. She turned from a reasonable- seeming human being into some kind of monster in about two seconds. "is is not to say we should accept shoddy service or sip a lacklustre macchiato. "ere’s nothing wrong with demanding good service. "e issue is how these unexpected changes are triggering sudden bouts of rage and toxicity. Such behaviours usually come out of nowhere and

destroy everything in their path – I’m surprised we didn’t need to fasten our seatbelts during my experience on the plane. My concern is about how these people will cope when more serious issues arise. What’s going to happen during a situation out of their control such as the illness of a loved one, or their own? What’s happening is a reduction in ‘stretch’. Stretch sits between two other personal states – ‘comfort’ and ‘panic’. "e more comfortable or familiar our lives become, the smaller our stretch zone becomes. "e smaller our stretch zone – the closer panic looms. An ever-increasing comfort zone is what’s behind the phrase ‘getting set in your ways’. "e traditional view of ageing is that this is inevitable – an ever-shrinking life that leaves us doing very little and being fearful of anything new. A friend told me about Fauja Singh, who recently !nished a marathon at age 100. What seems most remarkable is that he took up running at the age of 89 after the death of his wife. At 89, Fauja Singh

PROPER COACHING

A “10% new” rule to help you live better. Words by ANGUS FLETCHER

85

started doing something new. If he’d been a runner all his life, the feat, though a great achievement, would have been within comfort. So, how can we enjoy our lives and handle minor unexpected events with ease? "e answer is simple enough: keep a personal upgrade path running for your brain by keeping your stretch zone plump and healthy. "ere is no need to give up the !ner things – just recognise when you’re hooked on them (that means a shrinking stretch zone). Neurosci-ence research shows that our brains have plasticity. Our beliefs are just beliefs. We can discard out-of-date ones and create new, more appropriate, beliefs as we have more experiences. I went on an outward-bound training course a few years ago. "is was a major stretch for me – the edge of panic. “I’m not a person who walks on high wires,” I told myself. Also on the course was a highly pro!-cient climber. His stretch was to stay on the ground and support the rest of the group.

"e easy way to keep a healthy stretch zone is to follow the ‘10%-new’ rule. Introduce 10% of newness every week. "is might be as simple as a new route to work. I asked a very accomplished corporate client of mine to experiment with choosing di$erent sandwiches and taking alternative routes to work. Although she initially had reservations (and some scorn), once she realised how hard it had become to introduce change, the penny dropped and her work issues were easily addressed. Keep an eye out over the weeks to come for people with a small stretch zone. "ey’ll be pretty easy to spot. Notice the stress they’re putting on themselves, not to mention the trail of destruction they leave behind them. And, if you’re so inclined, introduce a 10%-new plan over the com-ing three months and feel your stretch zone !ll out. If brains are able to change, it seems a shame not to allow them to do so.

PROPER COACHING

86

Despite no-logo policies in today's elegance codes, it's undeniable

that classic LOUIS VUITTON design can’t ever be an unsure purchase. They

stand the test of time and age beautifully. The key to get it right is to go for

the true classics, the unaltered versions of their original creations.

The Keepall is an example. First created in the 1930s as a revo-

lutionary folding luggage item, it's frequently re-launched in new colours,

materials and finishes, but nothing compares to the classic monogrammed

version.

Go for cabin sizes (no bigger than 55cm), and forget the shoulder

strap version - it's much more elegantly carried by hand, although not as

comfortable. Rub a piece of cotton soaked in tea through the leather parts and

let it dry in the sun. It will remove the undesirable "brand new" tonality of

the leather and add character to the piece.

KEEPALL, LOUIS VUITTON

PROPER SHOPPING

87