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prologueThe History of Oceanography
The Early TimesThe Middle AgesBox: Marine ArchaeologyVoyages of DiscoveryThe Beginnings of Earth ScienceThe Importance of Chartsand Navigational InformationOcean Science BeginsThe Challenger ExpeditionOceanography as Scienceu.S. Oceanography in the Twentieth CenturyBox: Satellite OceanographyOceanography of the Recent Past, Present,and the Future
Summary
Preface x
GuidedTour xiv
chapteL1The Water Planet
1.1 BeginningsBox: Origin of the OceansAge and TimeShape of the EarthLocation SystemsModern Navigational TechniquesEarth: The Water Planet
Summary
1.21.31.41.51.6
chap1eL2Plate Tectonics
2.12.22.32.42.5
Interior of the Earth
Lithosphere and AsthenosphereMovement of the ContinentsPlate TectonicsMotion of the Plates
Box: Listening to Seafloor Spreading
Contents vii
2.6 History of the Continents 832.7 Research Projects and Plans 87
Box: Undersea Robotic Technology 88
Box: Recovery of Black Smokers 922 Summary 95468 chapteL310
10 The Sea Floor and Its Sediments13 3.1 Measuring the Depths 99
15 3.2 Bathymetry of the Sea Floor 101
15 Box: Bathymetrics 108
18 3.3 Sediments 11022 3.4 Seabed Resources 124
Summary 1282426
chapterA
The Physical Propertiesof Water
29 4.1 The Water Molecule 13232 4.2 Temperature and Heat 13434 4.3 Changes of State 13538 4.4 Heat Capacity 13638 4.5 Cohesion, Surface Tension, and Viscosity 13742 4.6 Density 13745 4.7 Dissolving Ability 13951 4.8 Transmission of Energy 139
Box: Acoustic Thermometry of Ocean Climate 1464.9 Ice and Fog 147
Box: Green Icebergs 153-Summary 154
54
cb.apt e r 55759
The Chemistry of Seawater7179 5.1 The pH of Seawater 15780 5.2 Salts 158
viii CONTENTS www.mhhe.com/sverdrup
5.3 Gases 164chap1eL25.4 Other Substances 166
Box: Messages in Polar Ice 168The Waves5.5 Practical Considerations: Salt and Water 170
Summary 172 9.1 How a Wave Begins 2489.2 Anatomy of a Wave 249
chapter 69.3 Wave Motion 2499.4 Wave Speed 250
The Structure and Motion9.5 Deep-Water Waves 2509.6 Wave Height 252
of the Atmosphere9.7 Shallow-Water Waves 2569.8 The Surf Zone 260
6.1 Heating and Cooling the Earth's Surface 176 9.9 Tsunamis 262
6.2 The Atmosphere 181 Box: Tsunami Warning Systems 264
6.3 Greenhouse Gases 182 9.10 Internal Waves 266
6.4 The Role of Sulfur Compounds 186 9.11 Standing Waves 267
6.5 The Atmosphere in Motion 186 9.12 Practical Considerations: Energy from Waves 269
Box: Ship Emissions 189 Summary 271
6.6 Modifying the Wind Bands 193Box: Clouds and Climate 194
6.7 Hurricanes 199 Going to Sea 2736.8 EINino 2006.9 Practical Considerations: Storm Tides
and Storm Surges 204chap1eLJ 0Summary 206
chapter?The Tides10.1 Tide Patterns 27810.2 Tide levels 278
Circulation and Ocean Structure 10.3 Tidal Currents 278
7.1 Density Structure 20910.4 Equilibrium Tidal Theory 279
7.2 Upwelling and Downwelling 21210.5 Dynamic Tidal Analysis 285
7.3 The layered Oceans 21310.6 Tidal Bores 289
Box: Arctic Ocean Studies 21610.7 Predicting Tides and Tidal Currents 290
7.4 Measurement Techniques 219 Box: Measuring Tides from Spoce 291
7.5 Practical Considerations: Ocean Thermal10.8 Practical Considerations: Energy from Tides 294
Energy Conversion 220 Summary 296
Box: Ocean Gliders 222
Summary 224
chap1eLlJ
chap1eLB Coasts, Beaches, and Estuaries
The Currents11.1 Major Zones 30011.2 Types of Coasts 302
8.1 Surface Currents 228 11.3 Anatomy of a Beach 309
8.2 Wind-Driven Ocean Currents 230 11.4 Beach Dynamics 310
8.3 Current Flow 232 11.5 Beach Types 314
8.4 Eddies 233 11.6 Modifying Beaches 315
8.5 Convergence and Divergence 234 Box: National Marine Sanctuaries 318
Box: Ocean Drifters 236 11.7 Estuaries 322
8.6 Changing Circulation Patterns 239 11.8 High Evaporation Rates 325
8.7 Measuring the Currents 243 Box: Rising Sea Level 326
8.8 Practical Considerations: 11.9 Flushing Time 328
Energy from the Currents 245 11.10 Practical Considerations: Case Histories 328
Summary 245 Summary 332
chap1eLl2
Environmental Issues and Concerns12.112.212.312.412.512.6
Water and Sediment QualityGulf of Mexico Dead ZonePlastic Trash
Ocean Waste Management ProposalsOil SpillsMarine Wetlands
Box: Spartina: Valuable and Productiveor Invasive and Destructive?
Biological InvadersOverfishing and Incidental CatchAfterthoughtsSummary
12.712.812.9
chaptBLl3The LivingOcean13.1 Ocean Biology13.2 Groups of Organisms13.3 Environmental Zones13.4 Facts of Ocean Life13.5 Bottom Environments13.6 Close Associations13.7 Barriers and Boundaries13.8 Practical Considerations:
Modification and MitigationBox: Biodiversity in the OceansSummary
chaptBLlA
Production and Life14.114.214.314.414.5
Primary ProductionControls on Primary ProductionGlobal Primary ProductivityMeasuring Primary ProductivityTotal ProductionBox: The Antarctic Food WebPractical Considerations: Human Concerns
Box: CaICOFI-Fifty Years of Coastal Ocean DataSummary
14.6
chapteLl5
The Plankton:Drifters of the Open Ocean15.1 Kinds of Plankton15.2 Bacteria
336
339341341343347
348350352354355
358358360360367367368
368369370
373374378379381384387388389
393404
15.315.415.5
Viruses
Classification Summary of the PlanktonSampling the PlanktonBox: ExtremophilesPractical Considerations:Marine Toxins
Box: Rapid Detectionof Algal BloomsSummary
15.6
chaptBLl6The Nekton: Free Swimmersof the Sea
405405406407
408
410412
16.1 MammalsBox: Whale FallsMarine BirdsBox: The Sea Bear
Marine ReptilesSquidFish
Classification Summary of the NektonPractical Considerations:Commercial Fisheries
Summary
16.2
16.316.416.516.616.7
chap1eLl2
The Benthos: Dwellersof the Sea Floor
416422427428431433434437
438444
17.117.217.3
Algae and PlantsAnimals
Classification Summary of the BenthosBox: Deep-Sea Ice WormsTropical Coral ReefsHigh-Energy EnvironmentsDeep-Ocean Chemosynthetic CommunitiesSampling the BenthosPractical Considerations:Harvesting the BenthosBox: Genetic Manipulation of Fishand Shellfish
Summary
17.417.517.617.717.8
Appendix A Scientific (or Exponential) Notation
Appendix B SI Units
Appendix C Equations and Quantitative Relationships
Glossary
Credits
Index
Contents
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