Programme 4: Battle in the Glens

In this four-day walk we head to the mountains and glens of north-west Scotland. Hidden in the

dramatic landscape is a history of protest, bloodshed and rebellion. The Highlands were a breeding

ground for revolution, and in the early 18th century there was a series of violent uprising against the

crown. The region known as Kintail, opposite the Isle of Skye, was home to one of the great revolts.

Nearly 150 years after the defeat of the famous Spanish Armada, a battalion of Spanish troops

landed at Eilean Donan Castle, led by a group of Scottish clan chiefs. Known as Jacobites, their aim

was to overthrow the protestant King George I and replace him with the Catholic son of James II,

James Francis Stuart, the Old Pretender.

Please use OS Maps: OS Explorer 413, OS Explorer 414 (1:25k) and OS Landranger 33 (1:50k)

All distances approximate.

Day 1 Shiel Bridge to Glenelg, via Glen Undalain, The Suardalan Mountain Hut, Brochs of Glen Beag

Distance: 16 miles

Day 2 Glenelg to Eilean Donan, via Bernera Barracks, Sandaig Bay, Glenelg Ferry, Kyle of Lochalsh

Distance: 11 miles walking and a 13-mile boat trip

Day 3 Eilean Donan to Shiel Bridge, via Eilean Donan Castle, Clachan Duich

Distance: 6 miles

Day 4 Shiel Bridge to Glen Shiel Battle Site, via Achnagart Farm

Distance: 6 miles

Day 1: Shiel Bridge to Glenelg, via Glen Undalain, The Suardalan Mountain Hut, The Brochs of Glen Beag. 16 miles.

Warning: Please note that this walk is

challenging; do not attempt unless you

are a seasoned hiker and are properly

equipped. Sturdy boots, warm clothes,

wet weather gear, an OS map of the area

and compass are essential.

The walk starts at Shiel Bridge. From

here we head south, along a footpath

through Glen Undalain. We bear west

past Loch Coire nan Crogachan, across the mountain range between Sgurr Mhic Bharraich and Sgurr

a Gharg Gharaidh. As we descend the range the path bears north west to follow Glenmore River. The

footpath meets a road near Cnoc Fhionn. Continue on this road to a bridge, which we cross, doubling

back on ourselves to take the footpath following the river on the south side, through Glen More. The

path then leaves the river heading south to our lunch spot - the mountain hut of Suardalan.

The Mountain Hut of Suardalan

Suardalan Mountain Hut is an overnight shelter for hikers. It is maintained by the Mountain

Bothies Association and can be found at grid ref: LR 33: NG 883 173 on the watershed between

Glen More and Glen Beag. Check with the Glenelg estate before visiting as the bothy is

occasionally used by local shepherds.

The Highland Clans

People are known to have inhabited these glens since 3000 BC. Walking along the nameless paths to reach Suardalan

hut we are following in the footsteps of Scotland’s early inhabitants - the people of the Clans. The clan system, through

which great swathes of Scotland were governed for hundreds of years, is inextricably linked with the Highlands. Great clan

chiefs often wielded more power than the Scottish kings. Clan is the Gaelic word for children, so Clan Donald means the

children of Donald, and it identifies a group with shared kinship and territory. But the clans were much more than family

groups sharing a bit of land. They were hierarchical organizations, led by all powerful chiefs charged with running the

clan’s affairs for the benefit of all clan members. In this harsh climate and rugged landscape kinship was vital.

From here the path continues south past Torr Beag and Loch Iain Mhic Aonghais. The footpath

curves west following the river, and meets a road which continues west through Glen Beag, the site of

the earliest known dwellings in the area. There are three brochs here, Dun Grugaig, Dun Troddan and

Dun Telve, all found along an Iron Age cattle drove route.

Brochs in Glen Beag

The brochs in Glen Beag are stunning examples of Scotland’s earliest buildings. They are unique to Scotland and almost

only found in the Highlands and Islands. Built in around 500 BC, they were the skyscrapers of the Iron Age. Although no

one is sure, most experts agree brochs were a kind of defensive fort, which doubled as a domestic dwelling. Brochs have

two concentric walls; an outer wall that leans inwards and a vertical inner wall. And although it’s not visible today, inside

there was once a standard wooden Iron Age house. The inhabitants are thought to have been farmers who worked

together to grow oats and barley. The population was small but resources were scarce and in desperate times neighbours

would band together and wage war against the folks from the next Glen or over the sea in Skye – a smash-and-grab to

pilfer what they could. Perhaps these neighbourly loyalties were the beginnings of the clan system.

From Dun Telve, we re-join the road heading west. The road leads us northwards to the village of

Glenelg, which boasts a welcoming pub, The Glenelg Inn, where we complete our first day’s walk.

Day 2: Glenelg to Eilean Donan, via Bernera Barracks, Sandaig Bay, Glenelg Ferry Terminal, Kyle of Lochalsh. 11 miles, plus a boat trip.

Please note that this boat trip is not

scheduled and must be prearranged with a local

boat hire company.

The Stuarts

From 1603 the thrones of England and Scotland were

ruled by the Scottish House of Stuart. But the Stuart rule

came to a dramatic end in 1688, when protestant couple

William and Mary of Orange took the British throne,

ousting the Catholic Stuart, James II. In 1701 an act of

parliament disqualified any Catholic from inheriting the

throne. This cast aside his son, James Francis Stuart, the

Old Pretender, and 56 other legitimate claimants, in favour of protestant George I - a German who couldn’t speak English.

The second day of walking begins at Glenelg, which looks across to the Isle of Skye. We take the

road heading north and directly opposite the school take the left hand path to Bernera Barracks.

Bernera Barracks

In 1715 thousands of men, predominantly from these glens, rallied to the Old Pretender’s cause

and marched south to take Edinburgh. But their hopes were dashed in a series of defeats,

culminating in the Battle of Sherrifmuir. Leading Jacobites fled to France but the British

government remained wary. The extent of their fear can be seen today in the form of Bernera

Barracks. In their eyes this village was a seething den of traitors and turncoats. To deter further

unrest the British government built huge fortified barracks to house 240 soldiers loyal to George I.

From here we take an eight mile detour south back through Glenelg, following the road south. We

cross the river at the bridge near Eilanreach and follow the footpath heading south west, skirting the

forest to Upper Sandaig, where we cut through the woodland plantation to reach Sandaig Bay.

Sandaig Bay

Sandaig Bay inspired the writings of author Gavin Maxwell. Born into the Scottish aristocracy and moulded in an English

public school, Maxwell tried his hand at soldiering, exploring, and shark fishing before discovering his true vocation -

writing. In perhaps his most famous work, Ring of Bright Water, Maxwell recounts his experience of living in a cottage at

Sandaig Bay with a succession of otters. The lyricism and magic of his writing made the book an international best seller.

Maxwell’s cottage burnt down in 1967, but a boulder marks the spot and is the place where Maxwell’s ashes are buried.

There is also a memorial to one of his otters.

We retrace our steps back to Bernera Barracks, then take the footpath north to join the road again

as it hugs the coast leading to the Glenelg Ferry Terminal. From here we take a boat trip heading up

through the Kylerhea straits to the town of Kyle of Lochalsh.

Sailing Past Skye

If we’d made this journey in April 1719 we’d have seen a Spanish fleet sailing towards the

mainland. It comprised of 300 crack Spanish mountain troops, as well as a retinue of returning

Jacobite leaders. But the rebellion in the north was just part of the plan. The highland action was

intended purely as a diversion to draw the British Army into Scotland. Meanwhile, the Duke of

Ormonde and 5000 men would land in the south west and march on London.

We sail on to Eilean Donan Castle where we hit dry land and the end of Day 2’s walk.

Day 3: Eilean Donan to Shiel Bridge, via Eilean Donan Castle, Clachan Duich. 6 miles.

Day 3 begins at Eilean Donan Castle.

Eilean Donan

On 13 April 1719 the

Spanish and Scottish

force landed at Eilean

Donan Castle.

This was Clan Mackenzie territory and William

Mackenzie, also known as the Earl of Seaforth,

was one of three commanders in charge. He had

grown up in the castle and knew it was a strong

and defensible fortress.

But disastrous events were to scupper the Jacobites’ plan. Soon after their arrival, they received news that the main fleet

of 5000 men, due to invade the south west of England, had been destroyed in a huge storm in the Bay of Biscay. The

troops at Eilean Donan were on their own, and the three Jacobite generals argued about the best course forward.

On 10 May 1719, the arrival of three English warships decided the case. By this time the bulk of the Spanish-Scottish

army had left, leaving only 40 Jacobites to face 100 warship cannons. The English bombarded Eilean Donan with cannon

fire, and the Jacobite garrison were forced to surrender. The Jacobites fled and the castle was destroyed. Eilean Donan

would stand in ruins for over 200 years until its restoration in the last century. But its destruction was not the end of the

1719 rebellion. Remarkably, they decided to fight on and headed to a garrison in Inverness.

Leaving Eilean Donan we follow the road north and before reaching the bridge over Loch Long we

take a small road north towards the Dornie Hotel. Taking the narrow road that runs just inland of the

main road, we head south east, following in the footsteps of the fleeing Jacobite exiles.

We head past Carr Brae and continue on the road, crossing a bridge over a narrow stream before

following a footpath through woodland, which joins the A87 just before a large bridge over the end of

Loch Duich. On the north side of the road is a memorial and cemetery.

Clachan Duich

Clachan Duich is an ancient clan burial ground, possibly dating from the 8th Century. Within

the cemetery grounds is a ruined church with a memorial commemorating the men who fell at

the Battle of Sherrifmuir in 1715, fighting for William Mackenzie, the 5th Earl of Seaforth.

Later, in 1719, this Seaforth raised an army of 200, and his cousin, Sir John Mackenzie of

Cowl, raised another 200 men. Not much support compared to the uprising of 1715. The

graveyard is a reminder that many men lost their lives in an uprising just four years before.

And now they had further discouraging news: the British troops were marching down to intercept the rebels. The mood

must have been dark indeed.

From the cemetery follow the road back towards Shiel Bridge Hotel where Day 3’s walk ends.

Day 4: Shiel Bridge to Glen Shiel Battle Site, via Achnagart Farm. 6 miles.

Starting our final day walk at

Shiel Bridge, we cross to the north

side of the river and follow an

unmarked path, tracing the course of

the river to Achnagart Farm. When

the Jacobites passed this way in

early June 1719 they knew that the

Inverness garrison, under the

command of General Wightman, was

just days away. From here we cross

a bridge to the south side of the river

and follow the A87 to the site of the

1719 battle, located around 2.5 miles

from Achnagart Farm and sign

posted from the road.

Glen Shiel Battle Site

Having come full circle, we now head up Glen Shiel to the final destination - the battle site

where the fortunes of the 1719 rebellion were decided. If the Jacobites were to beat

Wightman’s force it was imperative they secured the best position for the fight. At a choke

point in the glen, they chose the battlefield. This narrow section formed a natural killing

ground, and what made it a great defensive position also makes it a stunning spot. Dramatic

steep-sided mountains shadow the glen from either side. The navy in the loch blocked the

western retreat, so the Jacobites had no choice but to make a stand. Arriving on 9 June the Jacobites immediately

prepared their defences. A barricade was built across the narrowest part of the glen, blocking the road. Highlanders

occupied a knoll on the south side of the valley, while the Earl of Seaforth’s men took up positions on the mountain slopes

to the north. The famous Rob Roy’s MacGregors were held in reserve, while the Spanish troops dug in on the central hill

overlooking the barricade. The Spanish built protective stone works, and they did the job so well that these defensive

structures are still visible today.

On 10 June 1719, while the Old Pretender was celebrating his birthday in Madrid, Wightman attacked the Jacobites in

Glen Shiel. On paper the Jacobites occupied the strongest position. But the government army had a secret weapon -

mortars. A mini-cannon that shot a fused-bomb that exploded on the target sending out shards of shrapnel into the enemy.

Using the mortars to bombard them, Wightman’s forces first attacked the position to the left and then Seaforth’s position

on the right. The mortar bombs reputedly set the heather alight, forcing the highlanders to retreat. They streamed from the

battlefield leaving the Spanish as the last men standing.

Whiteman then turned his dreadful mortars on their position; he dismounted his dragoons and ordered his men to charge

the hill on foot. The Spanish were pushed back and with their retreat the battle and the 1719 uprising was over. The

Jacobites had been defeated. Around 50 men lay dying on the battlefield. The highlanders dispersed and the Jacobite

leaders fled back into exile. The Spanish troops were forced to surrender, and were eventually repatriated. On hearing

news of the defeat, the Old Pretender retired to Italy. And it was nearly 30 years before his son, Bonnie Prince Charlie

known as the Young Pretender, made one final effort to reclaim the throne. In 1745 the Young Pretender’s men got as far

south as Derby, but under pressure the rebels fell apart. It wasn’t until April 1746 at the battle of Culloden Moor that the

Jacobite cause was finally put to death in the heather. The government cracked down on the highlanders, prisoners were

executed, laws were passed to break the clan system, wearing tartan was outlawed and highland culture was forced

underground.

The Glen Shiel battle site is where we finish our Highland hike.