“Product Improvements by Blending Cotton with …experiencetencel-bursa.lenzing.com/fileadmin/template/pdf/2_franz...“Product Improvements by Blending Cotton with ... What are

“Product Improvementsby Blending Cotton with

TENCEL®”

Franz Martin Haemmerle April 2015

What are the reasons for fiber blending?

Franz Martin Haemmerle Experience TENCEL® goes Bursa June, 2015

Different fibers are blended for three reasons

to improve the properties of yarns and/or fabricso physical properties

increase of yarn strength better uniformity

o wear propertieso physiological properties

absorbency (hydrophilic) moisture management

o handle of fabrics(A special property of TENCEL® is its potential to fibrillate. By controllingfibrillation different fabric finishes can be achieved such as peach skinsurface.)

for economic reasonso cheaper raw material inputo lower production costs

for ecological reasonso sustainability

2

Important fiber properties of cotton and TENCEL®


The following physical properties of cotton fibers are influencing the spinningand weaving process:

the fineness the maturity the staple length the strength the elongation the cleanness

All these properties can be improved by blending cotton with TENCEL®.

3

fiber fineness


Cotton

Cotton as a natural fiber is not homogeneous . For the fineness the Micronairevalue is used. Micronaire is a combination of fiber fineness and maturity,measured by using the airflow. The cotton fineness varies from less than 3.0 tomore than 8.0 Micronaire.

Normally the longer the finer the fiber.

Cotton variety Micronaire Fineness(RIETER)

Cottondescription

(ICAC)approx.dtex*

Pakistan DESI 7.5 – 10.0 coarse very thick 3.0 – 3.9

Indian V-797 4.9 – 6.0 slightly coarse thick 1.9 – 2.4

American Upland 4.2 – 4.6 medium medium thick 1.7 – 1.8

Egyptian ELS 3.1 – 3.8 fine thin 1.2 – 1.5

West Indian Sea Island 2.9 very fine very thin 1.1

* Conversion factor: dtex = Mic x 0.394The conversion is strongly dependent on the maturity of the cotton fiber

4

fiber fineness


TENCEL®

For blending with cotton Standard TENCEL® with 1.3 and 1.4 dtex orMicro TENCEL® with 0.9 dtex are used.

Micro TENCEL® allows more fibers in the yarn cross-section which improvesthe quality of yarn and fabric.

fiber Type Titer in dtex Cut lengthin mm

Corresponds

Standard TENCEL® 1.3 + 1.4 38 Egyptian ELS

Micro TENCEL® 0.9 34 West Indian SeaIsland

5

fiber staple length


Cotton

The fiber length, the length distribution and the short fiber content are themost important parameters for the spinning performance, they influence:

the spinning limit the yarn strength the yarn evenness the yarn hairiness* the efficiency and productivity (ends-down in spinning)

* Low yarn hairiness is especially important in warp yarns sinceit‘s the cause of the highly undesirable jamming of warp threads,which causes loom stoppages.

In general, fibers less than 5 mm are lost at the spinning stage. fibers from 5 to15 mm do not contribute to strength. Only fibers longer than 15 mm in lengthproduce positive characteristics in the yarn.

6

fiber staple length


Staple length short medium medium long long extra long

inch < 25/32“ 13/16“ – 1“ 1 1/32“ – 1 1/8“ 1 5/32“ – 1 3/8“ > 1 13/32“

mm < 19.8 20.6 - 25.4 26.2 - 28.6 29.4 - 34.9 > 35.7

CottonVarieties

Pakistan Desi Indian V-797 Indian J-34 Indian MCU-5 Indian Suvin

Chinese 3128 B Chinese 1129 B Israeli Pima H1

US Upland US Pima

Burkina FasoBola

Egyptian Giza88West IndianSea Island

The length of spinable cotton fibers varies from approximately ½” to morethan 2 inch.

7

fiber strength


Pressley Index

93 and above excellent

87 – 92 very strong

81 – 86 strong

75 – 80 medium

70 – 74 fair

70 and below weak

Breaking strength of various fibers(= fiber strength in cN/tex):

The higher the fiber strength, the higher the yarn and fabric strength.

Fiber Fiber strength

Wool 12 – 18 cN/tex

Cotton 15 – 40 cN/tex

TENCEL® 36 cN/tex

Polyester 35 – 60 cN/tex

TENCEL®Cotton

For the fiber strength the Pressley Indexis used.

8

fiber properties of textile fibers


Properties Cellulosic fibers Wool Polyester

TENCEL® Cotton Modal Viscose

Dry tenacity(cN/tex)

36 15 – 40 33 – 35 22 – 24 12 – 18 35 – 60

Wet tenacity(cN/tex)

29 20 - 45 17 – 20 11 – 12 10 - 15 35 - 60

Wet tenacity in % ofdry tenacity

≈ 80 % ≈ 110 % ≈ 60 % ≈ 50 % ≈ 80 % ≈ 100 %

Dry elongation(%)

13 - 14 5 – 10 13 – 16 20 – 25 30 - 45 15 – 30

Wetelongation (%)

15 - 16 7 - 11 14 – 18 24 – 30 35 - 50 15 - 30

Wet elongation in %of dry elongation

≈ 110 % ≈ 105 % ≈ 110 % ≈ 120 % ≈ 120 % ≈ 100 %

Waterretention (%)

65 – 75 35 - 45 65– 75 80 – 90 40 - 45 0 - 2

9

Correlation between fiber properties and yarn properties


Ring-spun yarnproperties

fiberproperties

Tensile properties HairinessH

EvennessCVm

(+ variation)

Imperfections(thin, thick,

neps, classimatfaults)

Appearance

Yarn strengthRH

(+ variation)

Yarn elongationεH

(+ variation)

Length(short fiber content)

Fineness(Micronaire, maturity)

Strength

Elongation

Cleanness(trash content, neps)

significant correlation

correlation

no correlation

Rotor-spun yarnproperties



Strength

Elongation


10

Yarn comparisons


Three yarn comparisons with different blends:

100 % Shankar-61 1/16” – 1 1/8” (27.0 – 28.6 mm, Mic 3.4-3.8, Indian medium staple cotton)

vs70% / 30% Shankar-6 / TENCEL® 1.3 dtex

100% Israel Pima1 3/8” – 1 7/16” (34.9 – 36.5 mm, Mic 3.7 – 4.4, long staple cotton)

vs75% / 25% and 67% / 33% Israel Pima / Micro TENCEL® 0.9 dtex

100% Turkey DRESS1 7/32” – 1 1/8” (31.0 – 31.8 mm, Mic 4.0 -5.0, medium long staple cotton)

vs67% / 33% Turkey DRESS / TENCEL® 1.3 dtex andMicro TENCEL® 0.9 dtex

11


Comparison100% Shankar-6 vs 70%/30% Shankar-6 / TENCEL® (ring-spun)

αe = 4.3

Shankar-6: 1 1/16” – 1 1/8” (28.0 – 30.0 mm, 3.7 – 4.1 Mic, Gujarat/India, medium staple cotton)

Even with a lower twist factor the yarn strength is higher, this means also a higherproduction.

+ 12.0%

lower twist

2.502

2.8012.785

2.827

2.300

2.400

2.500

2.600

2.700

2.800

2.900

Ne 30100% Shankar-6

at 4.3 TF

Ne 3070%/30%

Shankar-6 / TENCELat 4.3 TF

Ne 40100% Shankar-6

at 4.3 TF

Ne 4030%/70%

Shankar-6 / TENCELat 3.9 TF

Yarn Strength - Lea CSP(Lea Strenght Tester)

lower twist

+ 12.0 %

αe = 3.9

+1.5%

carded combed

αe = 4.3

12

Comparison100% Israel Pima vs 75%/25% and 67%/33% Israel Pima / Micro TENCEL®

(ring-spun)


72

18 15

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

Ne 80, 100%Israel Pima

Ne 80, 25%/75%Micro TENCEL/

Israel Pima


Israel Pima

Thin Places [-50%]

20,0

20,921,0

19,419,619,820,020,220,420,620,821,021,2



Israel Pima


Israel Pima

Yarn Strength RH[cN/tex]

5,1

5,55,4

4,9

5,0

5,1

5,2

5,3

5,4

5,5



Israel Pima


Israel Pima

Yarn Elongation εH [%]

+ 4.5% + 5.0%+ 7.8%

+ 5.9%

- 75.0% - 79.2%

13

Comparison100% Turkey DRESS vs

67%/33% Turkey DRESS / TENCEL® 1.3 dtex and Micro TENCEL® (ring-spun)


Higher strength, even with a lower twist

13,0

14,9

15,3

16,4

16,8

15,3

16,6 16,5 16,5

17,2

15,9

16,7

17,2 17,317,5

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

3.6 / 110 4.0 / 120 4.3 / 130 4.6 / 140 5.0 / 150

Ne 80/1: Yarn Strenght RH [cN/tex](dependent on twist factor)

100% Turkey DRESS

75/25% Turkey DRESS/TENCEL 1.3 dtex

75/25% Turkey DRESS/Micro TENCEL 0.9 dtex

14

αe / αm




3,7

4,0

4,2

4,5

4,6

4,4

4,6

4,8

4,9

5,0

4,4

4,6

4,8

5,0

5,1

3,50

3,75

4,00

4,25

4,50

4,75

5,00

5,25

5,50

3.6 / 110 4.0 / 120 4.3 / 130 4.6 / 140 5.0 / 150

Ne 80/1: Yarn Elongation εH [%](dependent on twist factor)

100% Turkey DRESS

75/25% Turkey DRESS/TENCEL 1.3 dtex

75/25% Turkey DRESS /Micro TENCEL 0.9 dtex

αe / αm

15



Franz Martin Haemmerle Experience TENCEL goes Bursa June, 2015

4,1

3,9

3,8

3,6

3,5

4,0

3,7 3,7

3,5

3,4

3,9

3,7

3,6

3,5

3,4

3,00

3,25

3,50

3,75

4,00

4,25

4,50

3.6 / 110 4.0 / 120 4.3 / 130 4.6 / 140 5.0 / 150

Ne 80/1: Hairiness H(dependent on twist factor)

100% Turkey DRESS

75/25% Turkey DRESS /TENCEL 1.3 dtex

75/25% Turkey DRESS/Micro TENCEL 0.9 dtex

αe / αm

16

Large-scale production trial: spinning and weaving

Test arrangement:

Spinning:

4 different ring yarns Nm 68 (Ne 40) with different twist coefficient

αe T/” αm T/m 100 % cotton 3.9 24.6 118 968 Cotton/TENCEL-blends

67% CO / 33% CLY 3.6 22.8 109 898 50% CO / 50% CLY 3.6 22.8 109 899 33% CO / 67% CLY 3.5 22.0 105 865Approx.: 1,000 kg per yarn type

Cotton: 1 3/32” – 1 1/8” (27.8 – 28.6 mm)

TENCEL®: 38 mm staple length, 1.3 dtex

Franz Martin Haemmerle Experience TENCEL® goes Bursa June, 2015 17



All the important yarn parameters – yarn strength, yarn elongation, thinand thick places – show a clear trend, with an increasing content ofTENCEL® the values improve.

To show the benefits in weaving, we conducted a large-scale experiment ina modern weaving mill. Also in the weaving the running characteristicsimprove with the increasing TENCEL® content.

18


Test arrangement:

Weaving:

Bed linenWeave: plain weave and warp satinWoven on rapier with 400 r.p.m.Production: 2,000 m of each typeGrey width: 63”, 160 cmFabric construction:

Warp: 6,960 endsReed: No. 72 (143 per 10 cm)poplin: 2 threads per dentwarp satin: 5 threads per dent

Weft: 78.7 picks/” (31 per cm)

Sizing:

Sizing recipe: per 1,000 l H2O100 kg starch, 45 kg PVA, 5 kg CMC

Solid size pick-up: 100 % CO 13%67%/33% CO/CLY 13%50%/50% CO/CLY 13%33%/67% CO/CLY 11%

Franz Martin Haemmerle Experience TENCEL® goes Bursa June, 2015 19


15,27

16,06

17,16

18,49

3,9

3,63,6

3,5

2,5

3,0

3,5

4,0

4,5

5,0

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

100% CO 67% CO/33% CLY 50% CO/50% CLY 33% CO/67% CLY

Twistcoefficient[αe)

Yarn Strength - Twist Coefficient

+ 12.4% + 21.1%

Yar

nSt

ren

gth

RH[c

N/t

ex]

+ 5.2%

100% CO and 3 different CO/CLY-Blends.Higher strength, even with a lower twist

20Franz Martin Haemmerle Experience TENCEL® goes Bursa June, 2015

5,185,57

5,98

6,71

3

4

5

6

7

8

100% CO 67%/33%CO/CLY

50%/50%CO/CLY

33%/67%CO/CLY

Elongation εH [%]

5,785,60

6,07

6,53

4

4,5

5

5,5

6

6,5

7

7,5

100% CO 67%/33%CO/CLY

50%/50%CO/CLY

33%/67%CO/CLY

Hairiness [H]


+ 7.5 % + 15.4 % + 29.5 % - 3.1 % + 5.0 % + 13.0 %


The hairiness is higher, because ofthe lower twist factor.

21

αe: 3.9 3.6 3.6 3.5

3,8

1,7

0,50,7

0

0,5

1

1,5

2

2,5

3

3,5

4

100% CO 67%/33%CO/CLY

50%/50%CO/CLY

33%/67%CO/CLY

Thin places [-50%] per 1,000 m

34,3

27,8

17,014,0

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

100% CO 67%/33%CO/CLY

50%/50%CO/CLY

33%/67%CO/CLY

Thick places [+50%] per 1,000 m


- 55 % - 87 % - 82 %

- 19 % - 50 % - 59 %


22


- 45%

Cotton blending with TENCEL® reduces the amount of loom stoppages and increasesthe loom efficiency.

8,3

4,6 4,2

2,7

6,2

81,0

87,6

90,3

93,0

83,5

80

82

84

86

88

90

92

94

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

100% CO(1 3/32" -

1 1/8")

67% CO/33% CLY

50% CO/50% CLY

33% CO/67% CLY

100% CO(1 3/16")

longer staple

Loomefficiencyin %

Loom Stoppages per 105 Picks - Loom Efficiency in %

Loo

mst

op

pag

es

pe

r1

05p

icks

- 45% - 49% - 67%


Large-scale production trial in spinning and weaving

- 45%

Less loom stoppages mean a higher loom allocation.

1,61

0,97

0,91

0,60

1,24

20

33

35

53

26

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

55

0,00

0,20

0,40

0,60

0,80

1,00

1,20

1,40

1,60

1,80

2,00

100% CO(1 3/32" -

1 1/8")

67% CO/33% CLY

50% CO/50% CLY

33% CO/67% CLY

100% CO(1 3/16")

longer staple

Loomallocation

Loom Stoppages per Loom and Hour - Loom Allocation

- 40% - 43%

Loo

mst

op

pag

es

pe

rlo

om

and

ho

ur

- 63%


Correlation between fiber properties and fabric quality


FabricQuality

YarnProperties

Strength Elongation Appearence Handle andlustre

Dyeability



Strength

Elongation

Colour


significant correlation

correlation

no correlation

25

Benefits of Cotton / TENCEL® blended yarns


All spinning trials show that Cotton / TENCEL® blended yarns have

higher yarn strength (even with lower twist factor) higher elongation less hairiness (with the same twist factor) less imperfections

than comparable 100% cotton yarns.

An increasing ratio of TENCEL®- fiber content decreases unevenness,imperfections and increases breaking tenacity, elongation and hairiness.

Cotton / TENCEL® blended yarns have therefore better yarn parameters, whichhas a positive effect in the subsequent processes. Higher-quality yarns causefewer thread breakages in the weaving preparation, as well as in the weaving.By reducing the number of loom stops a higher weaving efficiency and a betterlabour productivity can be reached, which in turn leads to a reduction of theproduction costs.

Already a ratio of 25% of TENCEL® improves the quality of yarns and fabrics.

26

Economic advantages of using TENCEL® in CO/CLY-Blends


In Spinning:

less material input TENCEL® produces fewer waste than cotton

lower production costs TENCEL® doesn’t need combing

higher production TENCEL® can be spun with a lower twist factor

higher efficiency

higher labour productivity

27


In Weaving:

With Cotton / TENCEL® blended yarns the amount of loom stops can bereduced with the following results

higher loom efficiency ( additional production) higher loom allocation ( less weavers) higher labour productivity* better fabric quality ( less seconds)

* today labour productivity is the key for competitiveness

In sizing the amount of sizing agents can be reduced with increasing ratio ofTENCEL®.

28

Economic advantages of using TENCEL® in CO/CLY-Blends

Conclusion


Of all the cellulosic fibers, TENCEL® is the closest to cotton.

Cotton blending with TENCEL® significantly improves the quality of yarns andfabrics. TENCEL® blended with cotton lends all its qualities to the fabric. Thefabric is soft, breathable and absorbent (moisture management), has a strongdry and wet tenacity, is resistant to wrinkles and drapes well.

TENCEL® is produced in a solvent spinning process . The closed loop circuitrecovers and reuses 99.5% of the solvent.

With TENCEL® it’s possible to create environmentally friendly products.TENCEL® is obtained from FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and PEFC(Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes) certifiedtrees that are grown on marginal land which is unsuitable for food crops andgrazing. The land is not irrigated and no fertilizers nor pesticides are used.

TENCEL® is biodegradable and recyclable.

29

Cost Comparison: 100% Cotton vs. Cotton/TENCEL®-Blends(Cost Saving in Weaving)


Cost of end-breaks per loom and year; loom allocationLoss of contribution margin, compensation for 2nd quality and additional labour cost for weavers.

Shirting

152 cm / 60 inch, yarn-dyed poplin: Inputs

Ne 50/1 x Ne 50/1, ring spun; finished 58 x 29 per cm; 175 g/lin.m

fiber Input

Cotton 1 3/16" TENCEL® 1.3 dtex

Cotton price (US$/lb) x.xxx TENCEL® Price (US$/lb) x.xxx

Cotton price (US$/kg) x.xxx TENCEL® Price (US$/kg) x.xxx

TENCEL® Price (€/kg) x.xxx

Exchange rate x.xxx

Other variables

picks/cm (finished) 29.0 Ø min per loomstop (1.4 min + overlapping time) 2.0

shrinkage (in %) 5.0% Ø min per loomstop (1.4 min) 1.4

picks/cm (loomstate) 27.6 time for loom maintenance (in %) 1.0

fabric weight (g/lin.m) 175 other loom stops (in %) 0.5

loom speed: on airjet (r.p.m.) 700 Ø time for warp change (in hours) 4.00

mill operating hours (hours p.a.) 8,640 Ø warp length (m) 1,500

labour working time (man hours p.a.) 2,000

labour cost: weaver (US$/hour) 2.90

fabric price (US$/lin. m) 2.15

contribution margin (in %) 20%

price reduction for seconds (in %) 60%

30


fiber Input

100% CO

g / lin.m fiber price(in $/lb)

fiber price(in $/kg)

fiber price(in cents/g)

Costsin cents

Cost saving

100% Cotton 175.00

+ waste 33.40% 58.45

233.45 1.15 2.535 0.254 59.19

100% CLY

100% TENCEL® 175

+ waste 8.80% 15.4

190.4 1.388 3.059 0.306 58.24

58.24 0.94

Assumption (3.50 instead of 4.00 loom stops per loom hour)

Actual loom stops / h losses perloom + year

(in $)

Improvement loom stops / h losses perloom + year

(in $)

4.0 26,511 3.5 20,691

production p.a. 102,600 production p.a. 104,570

Loss $/m 0.2584 Loss $/m 0.1979

Loss cents/m 25.84 Loss cents/m 19.79 6.05

Cost saving in cents/lin.m 8.65

Cost Comparison: 100% Cotton vs. Cotton/TENCEL®-Blends(Cost Saving in Weaving)

31

Franz Martin Haemmerle Experience TENCEL goes Bursa June, 2015 32

In the “Cost Comparison”-calculation the following factors are not takeninto account:

Positive effects: Cotton needs a larger stock (constant blending), TENCEL® can be

purchased at short notice Lower depreciation on machinery and building, because of higher

production Lower specific energy costs in spinning and weaving Less sizing agents means less effluent treatment (sizing agents are

responsible for 50% of effluent treatment costs) TENCEL® has not to be combed

Negative effects: Value of cotton combing noils Additional draw frame passage for blending

Cost Comparison: 100% Cotton vs. Cotton/TENCEL®-Blends

“Many thanks for your attention”

Franz Martin Haemmerle Experience TENCEL goes Bursa June, 2015 33

Franz Martin HämmerleArenberggasse 1/5A-1030 Vienna / [email protected]

Documents

“Product Improvements by Blending Cotton with …experiencetencel-bursa.lenzing.com/fileadmin/template/pdf/2_franz...“Product Improvements by Blending Cotton with ... What are