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Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Drab vs. Fab LUXE Itineraries 1 LUXE PARIS Prestige PARIS How does the song go? “I love Paris in the springtime…’ Well, who doesn’t, and for that matter summer, autumn and winter are pretty darn good too. The City of Light shines like a romantic beacon year round with the finest of cuisine, fashion, lifestyle and culture, and yet, this ancient, fascinating and beautiful city is extremely walkable and easily navigable with its 20 districts or arrondissements spiraling out like an escargot from the central 1st. The legendary Seine River bisects the city with the urbane ‘right bank’ or rive droite being north, and the chic, artistic ‘left bank’ or rive gauche being south. Bienvenue à Paris! The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler www.luxecityguides.com Citi presents LUXE City Guides

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Page 1: Prestige PARIS - Citibankfavorite means of transportation for Paris), Plume et Bille where I find the special Namiki pens from Japan that I love for writing notes, and La Maison du

Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Drab vs. Fab LUXE Itineraries1 LUXE PARIS

Prestige

PARIS

How does the song go? “I love Paris in the springtime…’ Well, who doesn’t, and for that matter summer, autumn and winter are pretty darn good too.

The City of Light shines like a romantic beacon year round with the finest of cuisine, fashion, lifestyle

and culture, and yet, this ancient, fascinating and beautiful city is extremely walkable and easily

navigable with its 20 districts or arrondissements spiraling out like an escargot from the central 1st.

The legendary Seine River bisects the city with the urbane ‘right bank’ or rive droite being north, and

the chic, artistic ‘left bank’ or rive gauche being south. Bienvenue à Paris!

The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated travelerwww.luxecityguides.com

Citi presents LUXE City Guides

Page 2: Prestige PARIS - Citibankfavorite means of transportation for Paris), Plume et Bille where I find the special Namiki pens from Japan that I love for writing notes, and La Maison du

Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Drab vs. Fab LUXE Itineraries2 LUXE PARIS

Prestige

Excepting Fashion Week, there

is no bad time to visit Paris,

but bear in mind that during

peak spring season the city is

swamped and in August the

entire population goes on holiday,

or so it seems

CDG to town: around 45 mins /

€45 by cab; 30 mins / €8,70 by

RER train; or 45-60 mins / €9,40

by Roissybus

Even locals carry the fab little

red Plan de Paris métro n’ maps

all-in-one. Pick it up at any

news kiosk

Cabs are fine for short hops

but the métro is excellent for

longer journeys, buy a one-week

‘carte orange’ pass, or a ‘carnet’

of ten tickets

The handy Vélib bike scheme has

stations every 300m – €1/day,

€5/week via credit card + PIN /

www.velib.paris.fr

Un peu de politesse, mes

chers, always bid hello and

goodbye when entering shops,

bars and restaurants

Shops, services and restaurants

generally close on Sunday,

so use this day for museums

and activities

Service is always included, but

leave a small tip by rounding up

to the nearest euro or two

Coffee: café is espresso, allongé

is long espresso and café crème

(not café au lait) is coffee

with milk

The int’l dialing code for Paris

is +33 1, all local calls begin

with 01 and mobiles with 06.

To call emergency from a cell

phone dial 112

BLAH BLAH

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LORENZ BÄUMER

LUXE INSIDER

Legendary haute jewellery designer Lorenz is famed for his

spectacular one-off pieces utilizing rare and precious stones,

which are often inspired by the natural world. In addition to

his custom work and signature collections, for over 20 years

from his beautiful salon and atelier in the Place Vendome, he

also created exclusive collections for Chanel, and since 2009

is Artistic Director for Fine Jewellery for Louis Vuitton.

www.lorenzbaumer.com

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LORENZ BÄUMER

LUXE INSIDER

1) What’s the one thing every visitor to Paris must do and why?

Definitely Place Vendome. It is a wonderful place to go, a reference in luxury and especially

jewelry. This is my playground with the view that I have from my salons. Something I never get

tired of. I also happen to own 150 historic photographs dating back to 1853 of all the special

moments recorded on film from the magic square. Come and visit the collection

on your next journey!

2) What do you most love about Paris and why?

Paris is the city of inspiration, museums, amazing craftsmanship… a city that pushes you

beyond normal boundaries. I am very fond of the Museum des Arts Décoratifs where 4 of my

creations are on permanent display. There is always something special happening there, that I

can use for my next piece of jewelry. Reading is another of my passions and I love to discover

new books at Galignani library, rue de Rivoli where Bertrand Pizzin gives the best advice.

www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr • www.galignani.com

3) Where do you go for a pamper session, massage or spa treatment?

For me there is only Catherine Leroy, who just opened her spa, 6,rue de la Trémoille in the 8th

arrondissment. She does acupuncture and massage, so I love to visit her at the end of a busy

week. I feel totally rejuvenated: a million years younger!

4) What are 3 of your favorite restaurants in Paris and why?

What dishes do you order at these places?

Alain Ducasse in all his special locations: from the Plaza to Rech to Les Lyonnais. Kinugawa

for Japanese food. Jean-Paul Hévin for his “tartelette au chocolat”

and Paparazzi for the best pizzas in town.

Paparazzi / 6 Square l’Opéra Louis Jouvet / +33 1 40 07 92 56

www.alain-ducasse.com • www.kinugawa.frwww.jphevin.com

5) What are your three favorite shops in Paris and what do you love about them?

My three favourite shops in Paris are Urban Solutions for the best bikes in the city, (my

favorite means of transportation for Paris), Plume et Bille where I find the special Namiki

pens from Japan that I love for writing notes, and La Maison du Miel for the most incredible

selections of honeys. Since then we don’t have sugar at home any more.

www.urbansolutions.fr • www.maisondumiel.com

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MURIEL GRATEAU

Divine and dramatic, but simple

porcelain tableware, plus a rainbow

of fine linens and staggeringly chic

jewelry. Muriel’s eye is always flawless

and her monochrome store a magnet

for the city’s most stylish denizens

37 rue de Beaune, 7th / M: Rue du Bac /

+33 1 40 20 42 82 murielgrateau.com

Shopping

LUXE LOVES

LE RELAIS DE L’ENTRECÔTE

It’s not glamorous, and yes, you will

almost certainly have to queue, but

the two helpings of thinly sliced steak,

sublime ‘secret recipe’ green sauce,

fabulous shoestring fries, plus amiable

waitresses are just too priceless. Steak

and frites for a king!

15 rue Marbeuf, 8th / M: Franklin D. Roosevelt / +33 1 49 52 07 17 /

go early or queuerelaisentrecote.fr

Dining

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SAINTE-CHAPELLE

Is there a more celestial (and

romantic) chapel on the planet?

The utterly adorable C.13th upper

chapel with its ravishing stained

glass is breathtakingly exquisite. Try

to go on a sunny day for maximum

intake of breath.

4 boulevard du Palais, 1st / M: Cité / +33

1 53 40 60 80 / Mar-Oct 9.30am-6pm, Nov-Feb 9am-5pm / closed daily 1-2pm

www.sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr

Activity

LUXE LOVES

RALPHS

Fight for a summer terrace perch or

clubby salon table at Mr. Lauren’s

dandy paean to American classic

comfort cooking. It’s terribly BCBG,

but it’s terribly lovely whether at

lunch or supper.

173 boulevard St Germain, 6th / M: St-Germain-des-Prés / +33 1 44 77 76 00

ralphlaurenstgermain.com

Dining

LE ROYAL MONCEAU

This Raffles-run glory-bower has been

touched with the Starck stick, and

strikes firmly on the luxe gong with

a très contempo ring. Choose from Il

Carpaccio, Le Cuisine and Le Bar Long

and you’ll be well fed, watered and left

feeling awfully exclusive.

37 avenue Hoche, 8th / M: Ternes /

+33 1 42 99 88 00www.leroyalmonceau.com

Hotel

HÔTEL FOUQUET’S BARRIÈRE

A gold-dusted, regal residence with

an address to match. You are quite

literally smack bang in the middle of

the city on Avenue George V, with

the Champs-Elysées and the Arc de

Triomphe within moments of your door.

With plush, very spacious rooms, butler

service, garden, indoor pool, fitness

hall, U-Spa and legendary brasserie

Fouquet’s included in the picture, its all

looking terribly rosy, or golden!

46 avenue George V, 8th /

M: George V / +33 1 40 69 60 00 www.fouquets-barriere.com

Hotel

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NISSIM DE CAMONDO

A wander around this truly beautiful

house, complete with its original

collection of C.18th art, furniture

and antiques, offers a unique

glimpse into the past. A fascinating

little time capsule.

63 rue de Monceau, 8th / M: Monceau /

+33 1 53 89 06 50 / 10am-5pm / closed Mon-Tue

www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

Activity

LUXE LOVES

MERCI

Shop with a clear conscience at this

delightful concept store featuring a

vintage book café, home furniture and

fragrance, plus new/vintage togs for

kids and grownups with profits

going to charity.

111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd / M: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart / Mon-Sat

10am-8pm / +33 1 42 77 78 92 www.merci-merci.com

Shopping

SUR MESURE

Step into this white on white spaceship

for a galactic molecular ride through

all the latest techniques in 2 Mich-

starred chef Thierry Marx’s prolific

repertoire. Yes, there is faffy foam,

but Marx’s devotion to healthy living is

reflected in clean, sparkling flavors and

imaginative pairings like bean sprout

and truffle risotto.

251 rue St-Honoré, 1st / M: Tuileries / +33

1 70 98 73 00 / closed Sun-Monwww.mandarinoriental.com

Dining

LE BAR DU PLAZA ATHÉNÉE

The famous, ambient glow bar, luscious

leather armchairs, wood paneled walls

and eye-watering prices are like manna

to the city’s beautiful crowd who come

to be scene and barely heard. Go late.

Hotel du Plaza Athénée / 25 avenue

Montaigne, 8th / M: Alma Marceau / +33 1 53 67 66 00 / daily 6-11pm / electro-rock Thu-Sat 11pm-2am

www.bar-plaza-athenee-paris.com

Bar

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LE MEURICE

Alléno and Starck have turned this

crystal, marble, gilt and mirror salon

into one of the city’s most fought-

for tables, but you will need to be

sitting down when the bill comes. That

said, the prix fixe lunch is the best

value in town.

228 rue de Rivoli, 1st / M: Tuileries /

+33 1 44 58 10 55 / closed Sat-Sunwww.lemeurice.com

Lunch

LUXE LOVES

EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL CLUB

Tiny, sexy, young and funky, with plush,

chandeliered vibe and tempting drinks

list, the ECC is a laboratory of fine and

rare spirits served with a little tongue-

in-chic, and a heck of a lot of flair.

37 rue Saint-Sauveur, 2nd / M: Sentier / +33 1 48 78 31 80 / 5pm-5am / experimentalcocktailclub.com

Bar

LE CHATEAUBRIAND

Gastro-vivants sell their kids for

seats in Iñaki Aizpitarte’s vibrant,

exciting, experimental bistro. If you like

adventure and the unknown on your

plate, then book well ahead.

129 avenue Parmentier, 11th /

M: Goncourt / +33 1 43 57 45 95 / closed Sun-Mon

Dining

YAM’TCHA

Barely 20 seats, slightly erratic service

and very tricky to book, but ex-

Astrance chef Adeline Grattard delivers

a gorgeously original Franco-Oriental

prix fixe of taste and texture.

4 rue Sauval, 1st / M: Les Halles / +33 1

40 26 08 07 / closed Mon-Tue

Dining

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TAXIS

You’ve got more chance of

hailing a pelican in Paris. If you

are lucky enough to get one,

your next realization will be that

friendly cab drivers are as rare as

friendly waiters

SERVICE

Any chance of getting my

order before I expire? Probably

not, and especially not if

you’re not French

SUNDAY

Shops, services and a good many

restaurants are closed on Sunday

– quell insanity is this?

PRICES

€35 for a martini in hotel

bars? C’est du vol organisé! Be

prepared to haemorrhage cash

LUXE LOATHES

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MUSEUM PASS

You will of course wish to visit the

Louvre and Musée d’Orsay but spring,

summer and autumn the queues can

be atrocious, and tempers simmer

easily. Book ahead to get the 2, 4 or

6-day Museum Pass delivered to your

hotel and you’ll swan straight to the

front of the queue (much to everyone’s

annoyance). It also gains you entry to

scores of other wonderful museums

too. Le fab!

DRAB VS. FAB

CUISINE

In a city of such fine food it’s tempting

to simply wander from restaurant to

bistro without ever really knowing

the components of the dishes and the

origin of the ingredients. Step forward

Wendy Lyn, whose fabulous food tours

illuminate and charm in equal measure,

and yes, you get to eat just about

everything you see along the way!

thepariskitchen.com

EIFFEL TOWER

You could stand around with the rest

of the milling tourists watching Mr.

Eiffel’s splendid tour de force as it

goes through its nightly spellbinding

light show. For those in the know, the

very best way to witness the spectacle

is with a cocktail in your hand and a

grandstand view on the terrace of the

Café de l’Homme. Salut!

www.restaurant-cafedelhomme.com

VAUX LE VICOMTE

The Museum Pass will help you to

avoid the queues at the Château de

Versailles, but it really can’t protect

you from the abject swarms in spring

and summer. If two’s company, but

thirty thousand is a crowd, why not

consider the quieter and glorious Vaux

le Vicomte, the original inspiration for

Versailles. In summer you can even

dine within the candlelit grounds.

Palatial peace!

www.Vaux-le-vicomte.com

LUNCH

Paris hosts some of the world’s most

rarefied dining experiences, but apart

from the eye-watering cost, the sheer

difficulty in reserving a table for dinner

can be infuriating. So, reeducate

yourself to accept lunch as the main

meal of the day and you’ll take full

advantage of the city’s fantastic

prix fixe deals, from magnificent

Le Meurice to tiny Le Comptoir du

Relais. Bon appetit!

www.museums-of-paris.com

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ROMANCE

What better way to start your day than

in lovely St-Germain-des-Prés with a

steaming cup of the signature, thick

hot chocolate from Les Deux Magots,

followed by a gentle amble along Rue

Jacob’s pretty antique and décor shops

(pop into Ladurée for thigh defying

macarons), and be sure to stop off at

one of Paris’ best cultural secrets, the

charming little Musée Eugène Delacroix,

for a window into the C.19th romantic

artist’s atelier, home, work and private

garden. For a relaxed, but terribly good

lunch without a reservation be sure

to arrive very early at Le Comptoir

du Relais, or if you’re in the mood for

the chicest cheeseburger in town try

your luck at Ralph Lauren. Well, you’ve

earned a pamper, so off with you to

the Six Senses Spa, and relax in one

of their delightful couple’s cocoons.

Rejuvenated? You simply can’t come to

Paris and not shop for beautiful lingerie,

and just a short cab ride away awaits the

incomparable Fifi Chachnil, for undies

with a built in knee-tremble! With your

purchases safely wrapped, make haste to

the heavenly Sainte Chapelle, and then

onto the perfect afternoon tea at The

Four Seasons Hotel Georges V. Just

time for a quick wash and brush up at

your hotel before dusk when you should

take your table for cocktails at Café de

L’Homme (see Fab vs Drab) to watch the

spectacular Eiffel Tower light show (every

hour on the hour). 20,000 sparkling

light bulbs is quite something. With your

magical dinner booked (well in advance)

at Le Meurice, and a moonlit walk

through the close by Tuileries Gardens

to look forward to (or if you prefer, supper

at ravishing Le Grand Vefours followed

by a stroll in the Palais Royale), the

irresistible effect of Paris will become

very apparent.

LUXE ITINERARY

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STYLE

Start your stylish day with some of the

finest croissants and baked goods in

the city from famed baker Eric Kayser

– rather handily he has a shop Carré

Rive Gauche at 18 rue du Bac in the 7th

arrondissment, just perfect for your post

pastry stroll around the best interior

décor and antique shops in this treasure

chest of a neighborhood. Whatever

you do, don’t miss out on divine Muriel

Grateau (see LUXE Loves), and a visit to

the splendid taxidermist extraordinaire

Deyrolle, quite simply one of our favorite

shops, anywhere. A quick coffee at Hotel

Montalembert if you must, and then taxi

to the joyous Musée des Arts Décoratifs

for its design collections dating from the

Middle Ages to now. Lunch! Huitrerie

Regis offers bivalve bliss, and you can eat

in or takeaway. What luck, you’re terribly

close to the beautiful Palais Royale,

and that means vintage shopping and

perfume at the lovely shops of Didier

Ludot and Serge Lutens. An afternoon

visit to the Musée Jacquemart-André

is at once stylish and cultural, but just

as importantly you’ll find a rather good

afternoon tea under the Tiepolo ceiling

of its grand café. For that all important

pre-prandial, it’s difficult to beat the

excellent libations at ECC, before taking

your seat at the ultra fashionable white

on white clad Sur Mesure for Thierry

Marx’s molecular marvels. If something

a little less formal is called for, head to

Chez l’Ami Jean for Basque at its best

in a boisterous boîte of chandeliers, zinc

and graffiti – don’t miss the infamous

rice pudding with salted caramel cream

and nougatine. Nightcaps? Mais oui. Two

words. Andy Wahloo. Fin!

LUXE ITINERARY

Photograph: Matt Burns

Photograph: Antoine Mercier

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Wendy Lyn is the go-to gal for all things

culinary in Paris including food tours,

cooking classes, market visits and wine

tastings, but it’s also worth seeking

out the advice of Aurélie and Marion

at Succulent Paris who arrange all

manner of culinary delights including

food tastings in private apartments.

Prefer to go it alone? No problem. During

the week, one of the very best places to

start is always the delectable La Grand

Épicerie and its extraordinary seasonal,

regional and international produce. From

the ultra-luxe food hall specializing in

everything, it’s an easy step to the tiny

independent stores specializing in only

one thing. On you go to nearby 8 rue du

Cherche-Midi in the 6th for the legendary

bread of Poilâne, and then follow your

nose to 51 rue de Grenelle in the 7th,

where it’s possible to detect the presence

of cheese wonderland Barthélémy

even as you turn into the street. You’ve

now got the makings of a picnic, and

where better to enjoy it than the sylvan

surrounds of the nearby garden at the

Musée Rodin. Chocolate is a subject dear

to most people’s heart and in Paris you’re

spoilt for choice, but for an altogether

different experience grab a cab to the

9th to find the extraordinary A l’Etoile

d’Or at 30 rue Fontaine, where pigtailed

Queen of Candy Denise Acabo reigns

benevolently over her realm of hand-

curated confectionary and French artisan

chocolate. We adore this store! Or, if you

prefer to sit down for your chocolate

fix, try the wicked upstairs tearoom at

artisanal chocolatier Jean-Paul Hévin,

his alchemical cocoa will send you loco.

Yes, you’ve died and gone to Hévin! To

finish your day, care for something a

little under the radar for supper? Try the

excellent tasting menu at Verjus. Relaxed

and welcoming, this little restaurant is a

bit like attending a great supper party, or

if you prefer it even less formal, they have

a great wine bar with bites menu too.

Lovely!

GOURMET

LUXE ITINERARY

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ROMANCE

Les Deux Magots6 place Saint-Germain-des-Prés / M: St. Germain des Prés / +33 1 45 48 55 25 /

www.lesdeuxmagots.com

Ladurée21 rue Bonaparte / M: St. Germain des

Prés / +33 1 44 07 64 87 / www.laduree.fr

Musée Eugène Delacroix6 rue de Furstenberg / M: St. Germain

des Prés / +33 1 44 41 86 50 / www.musee-delacroix.fr

Le Comptoir du Relais9 Carrefour de L’Odéon, 6th / M: Odéon /

+33 1 44 27 07 97

Ralph Lauren173 Boulevard Saint-Germain / M: Odéon / +33 1 44 77 76 00 /

ralphlaurenstgermain.com/en

Six Senses Spa3 rue de Castiglione / M: Tuileries /

+33 1 43 16 10 10 / www.thewestinparis.com

Fifi Chachnil231 Rue Saint-Honoré / M: Tuileries /

+33 1 42 61 21 83 / www.fifichachnil.com

Sainte Chapelle62 rue Saint-Antoine / M: St. Paul /

+33 1 44 61 20 00sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr

The Four Seasons Hotel Georges V31 avenue George V / M: George V /

+33 1 49 52 70 10www.fourseasons.com/paris

Café de L’Homme (see Fab vs Drab)

Le Meurice228 rue de Rivoli / M: Tuileries /

+33 1 44 58 10 10 / www.lemeurice.com

Le Grand Vefours17 rue de Beaujolais / M: Palais Royal /

+33 1 42 96 56 27www.grand-vefour.com

Palais Royale4 rue de Valois / M: Palais Royal /

+33 1 42 96 15 35www.hotel-paris-palaisroyal.com

THE ESSENTIALS

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GOURMET

Wendy [email protected] /

thepariskitchen.com

Succulent Paris33 rue de Tocqueville / M: Malesherbes

/ [email protected] / www.succulent-paris.com

La Grand Épicerie38 rue de Sévres / M: Sevres-Babylone /

+33 1 44 39 81 00 / www.lagrandeepicerie.fr

Poilâne49 rue de Grenelle / M: Rue du Bac /

www.poilane.com

Barthélémy / 51 rue de Grenelle / M: Rue du Bac / +33 1 42 22 82 24

Musée Rodin / 79 rue de Varenne / M: Varenne / +33 1 44 18 61 10 /

www.musee-rodin.fr

A l’Etoile d’Or / 30 rue Pierre Fontaine / M: Blanche / +33 1 48 74 59 55

Jean-Paul Hévin231 rue Saint-Honoré / M: Tuileries /

+33 1 55 35 35 96 www.jphevin.com

Verjus / 52 rue de Richelieu / M: Bourse / +33 1 42 97 54 40

www.verjusparis.com

THE ESSENTIALS

STYLE

Eric Kayser18 rue du Bac / M: Rue du Bac /

+33 1 42 61 27 63 / www.erickayser.com

Muriel Grateau (see LUXE Loves)

Deyrolle46 rue du Bac / M: Rue du Bac / +33 1

42 22 30 07 / www.deyrolle.com

Hotel Montalembert3 rue Montalembert / M: Rue du Bac /

+33 1 45 49 68 68 / www.hotel-montalembert.fr

Musée des Arts Décoratifs107 rue de Rivoli / M: Tuileries / +33 1

44 55 57 50 www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

Huitrerie Regis3 rue Montfaucon / M: Mabillon / +33 1

44 41 10 07 huitrerieregis.com

Didier Ludot / 24 Galerie Montpensier / M: Palais Royal / +33 1 42 96 06 56 /

www.didierludot.fr

Serge Lutens95 rue de Rivoli / M: Palais Royal /

+33 1 42 86 57 76 / www.sergelutens.com

Musée Jacquemart-André158 Boulevard Haussmann / M: St.

Philippe du Roule / +33 1 45 62 11 59 / www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com

ECC37 rue Saint-Honoré / M: Châtelet /

+33 1 45 08 88 09 / www.experimentalcocktailclub.com

Sur Mesure251 rue Saint-Honoré / M: Tuileries /

+33 1 70 98 73 00 / www.mandarinoriental.com/paris

Chez l’Ami Jean / 27 rue Malar / M: La Tour-Maubourg / +33 1 47 05 86 89 /

www.amijean.eu

Andy Wahloo69 rue des Gravilliers / M: Arts et

Métiers / +33 1 42 71 20 38 / www.andywahloo-bar.com

Page 16: Prestige PARIS - Citibankfavorite means of transportation for Paris), Plume et Bille where I find the special Namiki pens from Japan that I love for writing notes, and La Maison du

Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Drab vs. Fab LUXE Itineraries16 LUXE PARIS

Prestige

YOUR LUXE NOTES