Prepared for: David Weins, Instructor of ENTR 3130 S10: … Guide to stucco.pdf · 2010-06-21 · A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding v ENTR 3130 S10 DEFINITIONS Abrasives: Substance

Prepared for:

David Weins, Instructor of ENTR 3130 S10: Professional Business Communications, Kwantlen University College

Prepared by:

Sharon Amer, Vince Au, Natisha Mathews & Agata Nowak, Students of ENTR 3130 S10: Professional Business Communications, Kwantlen University College

November 28, 2002

A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding i ENTR 3130 S10

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Due to the housing boom in the 1980’s and early 1990’s, there was a growth in the amount of leaky housing units in British Columbia. This caused both a drop in the amount of condominium sales and mistrust with consumers who are homeowners and homebuyers. In order to have a good understanding of what went wrong, this guide will give an unbiased look into what happened to cause this problem as well as guidelines to regain trust within the homeowners and buyers circle. After reading the homebuyer’s guide to stucco cladding the audience will be able to make a safer, more informed decision concerning the construction and stucco industry when buying a home. After interviews with industry professionals, research of technical industry guides, government agencies and homeowner organizations’ documents the writers of this report looked at the major aspects of the leaky condo crisis and compiled an unbiased report of their findings. This report is designed for the average homebuyer and owner; therefore it will include straightforward non-technical information, translation of technical vocabulary, easy to follow format, quick reference tools, and diagrams and pictures to aid the readers understanding. The issues covered in this guide that ensure a successful stucco clad home buying experience are:

o Summary of the BC Leaky condo crisis o What stucco is o Building Cladding Systems using Stucco o Building envelope issues o Benefits of stucco o Stucco problems o Maintenance of stucco o Types of warranties that are offered o Home inspections o Checklists for home buyers

This report will assist in regaining trust of the homebuyers and owners in the building industry. If the guidelines of this document are followed the audience should be able to achieve a safe and successful home purchase as well as minimize any unnecessary losses.

A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding ii ENTR 3130 S10

TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………………………………1 CONCLUSIONS…………………………………………………………………………2-3 THE “BC LEAKY CONDO CRISIS……………………………………………………...4 The History of the Leaky Condo Crisis………………………………………4

The Conditions that Created the Opportunity for the Leaky Condo Crisis in BC………………………………………………………4

The Barrett Commission Regarding Leaky Condos……………….4 Characteristics of Failed Building…………………………………………….4 Factors Contributing to Failed Building…………………………………...4-5

Inappropriate Building Design…………………………………………5 Inexperienced Builders……………………………………………….5-6 Cost-Cutting Techniques………………………………………………6 Old and Outdated Building Practices………………………………...6

The Future…………………………………………………………………………6 BC Multifamily Buildings………………………………………………..6 High-Rise Failures………………………………………………………..6 Alberta Building Failures……………………………………………….7 WHAT IS STUCCO? ……………………………………………………………………..8 Definition…………………………………………………………………………..8 Origin and History………………………………………………………..8 Use of Portland Cement in Stucco……………………………………8

The General Attributes of Stucco…………………………………………...8-9 Cement Stucco Curing…………………………………………………..9 Types of Stucco…………………………………………………………………..9 Sand/Cement Stucco Cladding………………………………………..9 Acrylic Stucco…………………………………………………………….9 Stucco Cladding Color…………………………………………………………..9 Acrylic Stucco Cladding Color………………………………………...9 Sand/Cement Stucco Cladding Color…………………………….9-10 Stucco Texture………………………………………………………………10-11 BUILDING CLADDING SYSTEMS USING STUCCO………………………………12 Traditional Stucco Systems………………………………………………12-14 Rainscreen……………………………………………………………………….14 What is a Rainscreen? ………………………………………………...14 Do You Need a Rainscreen? ……………………………………..14-15 Types of Rainscreens ……………………………………………..15-17 Exterior Insulated Finish Systems…………………………………………..17 What is EIFS? …………………………………………………………...17

Framing…………………………………………………………………...17 Sheathing………………………………………………………………...17 Weather Barrier………………………………………………………….17 Foam………………………………………………………………………17 Basecoat and Mesh…………………………………………………….17 Acrylic Finish Coat……………………………………………………..17 Foam Shapes………………………………………………………...17-19

THE BUILDING ENVELOPE…………………………………………………………...20

A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding iii ENTR 3130 S10

Definition…………………………………………………………………………20 Purpose……………………………………………………………………….20-21 Maintenance and Inspection………………………………………………….21 Problem Detection………………………………………………………….21-22 Damaging Elements and Damage Prevention……………………………..22 Water Collection………………………………………………………...22 Trapped Water…………………………………………………………..22

Waterproofing…………………………………………………………...22 Rain Penetration…………………………………………………….22-24 Wind Driven Rain……………………………………………………….24 Humid Air…………………………………………………………………24 Freezing of Water……………………………………………………….24 Expansion of Building Materials……………………………………..24

Sunlight…………………………………………………………………..24 WHY USE STUCCO?……………………………………………………………………25

Benefits of Use………………………………………………………………….25 Design Versatility……………………………………………………….25 Fire Resistance………………………………………………………….25 Water Resistance……………………………………………………….25 Value for Seismic Loads………………………………………………25 Low Maintenance Costs……………………………………………….25 Insect Proof………………………………………………………………26 Impact and Abuse Resistance………………………………………..26 Noise Resistance……………………………………………………….26 Economical…………………………………………………………..26-27 Energy Efficiency……………………………………………………….27

Comparison: Other Claddings……………………………………………….27 Design Versatility……………………………………………………….27 Fire Resistance and Pests Control…………………………………..27 Water Resistance……………………………………………………….28 Maintenance……………………………………………………………..28 Seismic Tests from Research at UBC………………………………28 Energy Efficiency…………………………………………………...28-29

STUCCO PROBLEMS THAT CAN OCCUR………………………………………….30 Cracking………………………………………………………………………….30

Why Cracking Occurs and Types of Cracks……………………….30 How to Repair Cracks………………………………………………….30

Color Problems………………………………………………………………….30 What Causes Color Problems? ………………………………….30-31 Fixing Color Problems…………………………………………………31

Efflorescence.…………………………………………………………………...31 What is Efflorescence? ……………………………………………….31 What Causes Efflorescence? ………………………………………..31

EXTERIOR BUILDING MAINTENANCE……………………………………………...32 Preventative Maintenance…………………………………………………….32 Inspection Tips………………………………………………………………32-33

Cleaning…………………………………………………………………………..33 General Cleaning……………………………………………………33-34 Pressure Washing………………………………………………………34

A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding iv ENTR 3130 S10

Mold and Mildew Removal………………………………………...34-35 Mold and Mildew Stain Removal……………………………………..35 Efflorescence Removal………………………………………………..35 Recoating………………………………………………………………………...35 Fog Coating……………………………………………………………...35

Warnings…………………………………………………………36 Materials………………………………………………………….36 Preparation………………………………………………………36

Mixing……………………………………………………………..36 Spraying………………………………………………………….36 Painting…………………………………………………………………...36

How do I Prepare the Surface? …………………………..36-37 How do I Apply this Product? ………………………………..37

How Long Before it is Dry? …………………………………..37 HOME INSPECTION………………………………………………………………..…...38

The Building Code……………………………………………………………...38 Primary Purpose of the Building Code……………………………..38

Responsibility of the Government…………………………………..38 Inspectors………………………………………………………………………..38

Choosing an Inspector…………………………………………….38-39 Professional Organizations…………………………………………...39 Steps to Follow When Making a Selection…………………………39 Steps to Follow During Inspection………………………………39-40

WARRANTIES……………………………………………………………………………41 Types of Warranties……………………………………………………………41

Manufacturers’ Warranties……………………………………………41 Home Warranties………………………………………………………..41 Mandatory Third - Party Warranties……………………………..42-43 Statutory Warranties…………………………………………………...43 Non-Regulated Warranties………………………………………..43-46

Warranties and Condominiums………………………………………………46 Your Responsibilities Under a Warranty……………………………….46-47 CHECKLISTS FOR HOMEBUYERS…………………………………………………..48

New Stucco Home Purchase……………………………………………...48-49 Used Stucco Home Purchase Checklist………………………………..50-51

WORKS CITED………………………………………………………………………52-53

A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding v ENTR 3130 S10

DEFINITIONS Abrasives: Substance that is rough or scratches. Aggregates: A granular material such as sand. Bonds: Adhesion of stucco to other surfaces that it is applied against. Building Paper: Also referred to as tar paper or black paper it comes in different ratings such as 30 minute or 60 minute. The minute rating refers to the time it takes for water sitting on the paper to pass through it. Cementitious: Made of or from cement. Control Joints: A flexible metal component designed to control the shrinkage of cement plaster. It is usually placed at each floor break of a building. Cured: The process of cement hydrating and chemically changing to become hard. Delamination: Coming unglued or unbonded from something. Dens Glass Gold: Trade name for resinous coated, glass-fiber mat-faced, water-resistant core gypsum sheathing board. Diversion Flashings: A flashing that is used to redirect the flow of rainwater. Eaves troughs: Plastic or metal troughs that redirects rainwater from the roof to the ground. Face Seal Wall Assemblies: Refers to the strategy of rain penetration control, which relies on the elimination of holes in the exposed exterior face of the assemblies. Flashing: A thin, usually metal material used to prevent water entry or to direct the flow of water in a desired direction between two or more materials or surfaces. Hardiplank: A cement siding that is hung similar to vinyl siding that comes in different patterns and can be painted. Oriented strand board (OSB): It has replaced plywood as wood sheathing and is made from logs that are chipped and glued together. Soffit: The underside of a structural component, such as a beam, arch, staircase, or cornice. Substrate: Same as sheathing. Tyvek: Trade name for a house wrap that is made from fine, high-density polyethylene fibers. Tyvek is more tear resistant than building paper.

A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding vi ENTR 3130 S10

Weep holes: Small holes in the bottom of windows that allows water to drain out.

A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding 1 ENTR 3130 S10

INTRODUCTION David Wiens approved this report on October 17, 2002 as a formal report to fulfill the requirements of Business Communications ENTR 3500 S10. With the increasing amount of first time homebuyers in the market, there have been questions about the leaky condo crisis. With all the media coverage and talk about the topic, sales of condominiums and new houses have been at a low in British Columbia. This report covers what an average homebuyer should look at in order to lower the risks of buying a leaky home. Since it is directed to the homebuyer, the sources and information of this report are unbiased and offer only suggestions on how to prevent making an incorrect purchasing decision. This report is only an overview of what caused leaky condos and some of the ways that can prevent this issue. It mainly covers the major problems and gives reasons to why these problems occurred. The report also gives step-by-step guidelines and diagrams to ensure the reader will have a good understanding once he/she has completed reading the report. Even though there is an enormous amount of information available in regards to the leaky condo crisis, the writers of this report felt that the information was biased. The reports that are published for the public are usually based on media coverage, which creates biasness or is used to create controversy. Precise information pertaining to what went wrong is available to some individuals but is technical in nature and would require building knowledge in order to understand it fully. The writers of this report researched media information as well as technical information. Representatives of both sides of the issue were interviewed as well as a focus group in order to understand what was needed and how it should be provided. After compiling all the information a report was created in “layman” terms. It is geared towards the public and the reader will not need any prior knowledge to understand it. This report outlines the basics and has various figures and tables, which help the reader visualize and understand the proper procedures and process that must be followed in order to help minimize all risks associated with leaky condos. We have also included definitions of unfamiliar vocabulary in order to help the reader understand words that are technical and that are used in the industry. This provides the audience with some technical knowledge as well as allows them to ask more focused questions to the builders. All persons, the writers and contributors of this document, do not accept any form of liability if any loss or damage is suffered by any person or organization due to the use of this guide. This is not to say that the information contained in this document is not valid, not credible or untrustworthy of use, this disclaimer is simply an act of protection against any legal action. It is important to know that this document was set forth by non-professionals who made this guide possible by compiling information obtained through extensive research. It is recommended that the audience verify these facts with a professional applicator or builder of their choice.


CONCLUSIONS

1. The BC Leaky condo crisis has been called a total system failure that was precipitated by a boom market in the 80’s and 90’s. The system failure included that lack of regulation of builders, new designs unsuitable for the environment, poorly trained labor, poor workmanship, ineffective construction inspections, introduction of untested materials, and a lack of regard for the building envelope. After many research studies the industry has identified the causes of the building failures and the HPO has established the strongest home warranty in the country to protect homebuyers.

2. Stucco is a cladding that has been used for centuries. Cement and acrylic are the

two types of stucco. The color and texture that can be achieved is limitless and varies between the two types.

3. There are three common cladding system types used with stucco. They are the

traditional stucco system, which can use cement or acrylic finish, exterior insulated finish systems which use acrylic stucco on foam, and rainscreen systems, which have a cavity for moisture drainage. Rainscreen cavities are now common in wet coastal climates and are used in many cladding systems to provide drainage for water that may get into the system.

4. The building envelope is a concept that has become a very important topic in

building construction. The building envelope refers to all the building components that separate the indoors from the outdoors. The building envelope requires regular inspection and maintenance especially in wet coastal regions. There are various ways to detect problems and ways to prevent problems.

5. There are many benefits to using stucco as an exterior cladding. Stucco has great

versatility in architectural design, has a high fire rating, performs well in a variety of climates, provided excellent protection in earthquakes, is insect proof, and is economical. Stucco is slightly more expensive than vinyl siding but less than wood or brick.

6. Despite stucco’s benefits there are problems inherent to stucco. Various types of

cracks are common and are usually only esthetic problems. Cracks can be fixed quite simply and at low expense. There can also be problems with variation in the finish color. These problems can be fixed with fog coating or painting the stucco. Efflorescence is another potential problem, which involves salts coming to the surface of the stucco. This is a temporary problem that will require repeated cleaning.

7. Maintenance of a home includes taking care of all the components of the building’s

exterior. There is preventative maintenance that is required periodically as well as cleaning, that is also required. Stucco is easy and inexpensive to clean. There are various ways to remove stains and efflorescence. Stucco can be refreshed or the color may be changed with fog coating or painting.


8. Having the home you wish to purchase inspected by a home inspector is a wise decision. Despite the changes to the building practices and builder registration, problems can still occur. There are several associations of inspectors that can recommend an inspector who is certified that follows their rules and guidelines.

9. The Homeowners Protection Act provides protection to homebuyers who purchased

a new home under building permits applied for on or after May 1, 1999. This warranty provides 2 years for defects in labor and materials, 5 years for water penetration into the building envelope, and 10 years for structural defects. There are several exclusions to this warranty that should be reviewed. This warranty is provided by 3rd party insurance companies making it financially stable. Manufacturers and builders may also offer warranties. Check out these warranties carefully as they are only as good as the company that offers them.

10. This guide provides a checklist for homebuyers buying a new or used stucco clad

home. There are various things to check and questions to ask to ensure your comfort when buying a home and to minimize any risks associated with making decisions.


THE “BC LEAKY CONDO CRISES” The History of the Leaky Condo Crisis

The Conditions that Created the Opportunity for the Leaky Condo Crisis in

BC. In the 1980’s and 1990’s a major increase in the population of BC caused land prices to increase and governments to embrace design and architectural plans for multifamily dwellings in order to maximize housing construction (HPO 5). At the same time due to the demand for housing construction and the cutbacks to building trade’s training, substandard constructions practices increased. At the same time the condominium designs were changed to a design believed to be fashionable and artistic with less overhangs and details to protect the building from rainwater. Overhangs at rooflines were also eliminated to maximize square footage (HPO 8). By 1996 17 % of BC homeowners were living in condominiums (HPO 9). Of this 17% over 50% of these multi family buildings were made of stucco.

The Barrett Commission Regarding Leaky Condos. The Barrett Commission

was commissioned by the BC government to investigate the crisis. Its first phase was to take a panoramic view of the housing disaster and define the home and owners that would be eligible for assistance and construction loans. The second phase was to take a microscopic view of the disaster and fine-tune what changes needed to be done (HPO 7). The Barrett Commission called for the setting up of the Homeowners protection Act and Office to provide greater policing to the industry. Their key mandate was to establish licensing of builders and provide minimum standards for the strongest homeowner warranty in the country (HPO 8). Dave Barrett’s assessment of the BC “leaky condo crisis” was that it was a total systemic failure. This system failure included a boom market that had no regulation of builders, design or workmanship, compounded by unskilled labor, ineffective construction inspections and the introduction of untested materials (HPO 7).

Characteristics of a Failed Building Here is a list of characteristics attributed to a failed building (HPO 1)

o Mold or Fungi formation on walls o Rotten wood o Odors emitting from walls o Bubbles in paint o Cracked or missing sealants o Pools of water on the deck o Windows that are wet on the inside o Wind blowing through the walls

Factors contributing to Failed Buildings

Here is an overview of what where the contributing factors to failed buildings:

o Inappropriate building design; o Inexperienced builders


o Cost-cutting techniques o Old and outdated building practices o Lack of maintenance

Inappropriate Building Designs. The drastic change to the building designs

during the housing boom, led to a new type of building construction. This new design required different methods to construct and many of the builders did not know how to do this. Many of the building designs lacked the principles for enclosing this type of building design for the coastal climate (Morrison Hershfield 4). Here is a list of the problems in the building design that lead to leaks:

o Poor flashing and detailing. The new designs of the buildings required more flashings than the conventional houses built before. Many of the leaks came from insufficient flashing on vents, ducts, hoses, and stacks on top of the building as well as the side of the building.

o Wet Framing. Problems associated with applying the stucco would be application to

a building that is not ready. This usually happens when the wood frame of the building is framed in wet weather and is not allowed enough time to dry before insulating and cladding both sides; this led to the sealing in of moisture thus promoting rot in the frame (CMHC 8).

o The growth of flat roofs. The use of flat roofs requires a continuous sealed

membrane on the top to keep out the rain. Often the flat roofs were built without enough ventilation space between the ceiling and the roof sheathing. Any moisture that gets into this space tends to stay there leading to rot and mould. The use of the flashings for flat roofs also contributed to leaks. Often there was insufficient flashing used for sealing of any gaps or joints in the building. This led to moisture going into these joints and getting trapped in between the stucco and the building paper. In the past the use of sloped roofs did not have as much problems because sloped roofs repel water quicker and are easier to flash (Ricketts 1). A two-foot overhang on sloped roofs also allows water to stay away from the building when it is draining. On some leaky condos without overhangs, the water expelled off the roof went down the sides off the building onto decks and balconies (HPO 13)

o The popularity of Balcony and Decks. When buildings are erected they are allowed

time to shrink. This shrinkage occurs when the wood dries and the building is sealed. In constructing balconies and decks, there is slope that must be created so that the rainwater drains near the edge of the deck. The problem of leakage occurs when there is a different rate of shrinkage between the building and the columns supporting the decks and the balconies (CMHC 3). The result is an insufficient slope for the decks thus creating a plane for the water to run back against the building. When the water runs back into the building the water can enter the building through the joints or junctions. If it doesn’t enter that way, the water will go down the side of the building and slowly penetrate the stucco and enter into the walls (Ricketts 3).

Inexperienced Builders. The housing boom caused a shortage in skilled workers in

the construction industry. This led to many substandard construction practices being used.


The new design of the houses also led to many builders learning as they built these new houses. Many of them were inexperienced with the new designs and work required in order to enclose the building properly. Many of the problems associated with the leaky condos were not attributed to the products used in the construction of the building; rather it was the lack of knowledge to using the products properly in order to achieve the desired results.

Cost Cutting Techniques. During the market boom many builders tried to cut costs in order to make higher profits from the buildings. In order to do this, builders tried to save time and money by adding additives to stucco mixes. They did this by improper application. In order to make the stucco spread over a larger surface area thus reducing the amount used, common additives were soap or lime. Other ways for cutting build time are applying coats of stucco on the building prematurely. How this works is that stucco is applied in three coats and must be allowed enough time to cure in order to put the next coat on. Many builders tried to apply all the coats on in one day in order to sell the buildings quicker. Many of the leaky condos were also not allowed enough time for the building to “shrink” before applying the weather barrier. This usually happens when the frame of the building is framed in wet weather and is not allowed enough time to dry before insulating and cladding both sides. All of these cost cutting practices made the stucco have major structural cracks, which allowed water to enter through the wall causing significant damage (decay).

Old and Outdated Building Practices. The change to the new building designs allowed for old and outdated building practices. Many of the buildings were built without set guidelines for the new designs. This led to many buildings being built without the specific approval for the type of practice being used. This led to errors that were not noticed as well as builders getting away with substandard building practices. The Future BC Multifamily Buildings. Although the renovation market for building failures remains strong in BC there is a definite downward trend to the amount of new failures being discovered. Yet there are instances of buildings that have failed 2 or 3 times due to the renovations being no better than the initial application (Knowles). Homebuyers and homeowners still need to be cautious and well informed when choosing their home. High-rise Failures. The latest concerns with building failures in BC are in high-rise concrete towers. These failures are being found 8-15 years later because it takes much longer for a concrete building to show failures compared to a wooden frame building. CMHC conducted a study in 2001 on high-rise building envelope performance and found several problems similar to the low rise wood frame failures. It was found that many high-rise buildings had moisture problems resulting from leaking windows, the lack of overhangs, and the poor detailing at interfaces of different claddings. It was identified that most buildings should have been built with rainscreen assemblies (RDH 3). Failures began showing up as early as 1999 and Gerry Franeken, owner of Vancouver condominium Services, a property management firm, believes that over the next 5 years as many as 75% of all residential towers built in the last 15 years could be at risk.


Alberta Building Failures. Although coastal BC has been the focus of most of the attention on building failures there are other regions that have begun to find failures. Alberta was the focus of a research program in 2000. The CMHC conducted a research program that collected data on single-family houses and multi family buildings located in Calgary and Edmonton. The buildings were of various claddings built with wood frames. It was found that although the buildings were not a random sample several moisture problems were found. Construction and design were the most common factors contributing to problems (CMHC 1).


WHAT IS STUCCO?

Definition Origin and History. Stucco, cement plaster, portland cement plaster and acrylic stucco are the general terms used to refer to stucco exterior cladding. Cement and acrylic stucco fall under Section 9 of the BC or National building codes. Portland cement plaster or often referred to as “stucco” is one of the oldest construction materials in the world. Why stucco is also called portland cement plaster? Portland does not refer to a geographic location. Instead it refers to a kind of hard stone “portland stone” that a young bricklayer, Joseph Aspdin of Leeds, England was trying to imitate over 150 years ago. He experimented with different limestones and clays and finally found a way to create a hydraulic cement, a cement that hardens even under water and is not affected by exposure to water. He patented the product as portland cement in 1824. The first record of portland cement in US was in 1868. European manufacturers began shipping it here as ballast in huge steam ships at very low freight rates. Production in the U.S. began in the 1870’s. Today millions of tons are used annually; predominately for concrete, but only a small percentage of the total output is used in the plastering industry (Bellis). Use of Portland Cement in Stucco. Stucco is an exterior cladding that provides a weather resistant facing to exteriors of buildings. Stucco is composed of portland cement, which is “hydraulic cement” which means that it will harden with exposure to water. The composition of the cement is approximately 80% sand, portland cement powder, lime, and an appropriate amount of water. Other things that are added to the mixture are used to make it more spreadable and to increase resistance to water. The General Attributes of Stucco Hardness:

o Impact Resistant o Abrasion Resistant

Weather Resistance:

o Resistant to rain penetration o Resistant to thermal and moisture changes o Resistant to Acid rain, wind snow and sleet

Light Weight:

o 1/2” thick 5.89lbs o 3/4” thick 8.85lbs o 1” thick 11.78lbs (NWCB 4)


Fire Resistance:

o Noncombustible o No flame spreading o Will not smoke

Cement Stucco Curing. Cement stucco is a cementitious product, which means it is

made of cement and needs to cure. Curing refers to the chemical reaction that causes the cement to go from a thick liquid state to a very hard material. Curing is achieved by the stucco reaching a reasonable degree of hydration. This hydration may occur naturally or it may have to be misted with water by a light sprayer. Dry, hot weather may cause conditions that make the cement dry too quickly and therefore needs to be misted. Types of Stucco The 2 types of stucco cladding are:

A. Sand/cement stucco cladding. B. Acrylic stucco cladding

Sand/Cement Stucco Cladding. This is the basic sand cement stucco mixture used

for centuries. The colors are limited because it is tinted with natural oxide pigments. Cement stucco has a very long life span and will get harder and harder as it absorbs moisture. Cement stucco can also be layered onto the building in thick textures and can hide bumps and imperfections on the building.

Acrylic Stucco. Acrylic stucco is an acrylic based flexible coating with no cement in the mixture. Since it is acrylic it resembles paint and can be pigmented to almost any color the user desires. Acrylic is more expensive and requires more time to apply. It is only used as a topcoat since traditional cement stucco must be applied as the base coat. The advantage of acrylic topcoat is that it does not absorb water and since it has polymers it can bridge hairline cracks. Stucco Cladding Color Stucco cladding color depends on the type of cladding used. Acrylic Stucco Cladding Color. Acrylic stucco cladding can be tinted to almost any color a customer requests. The process may take a few weeks but many stucco companies do offer a lab that can produce custom colors. The color is a liquid that is added to the finish mix of the stucco. Customers are warned about using dark colors as the UV resistance decreases in heavily pigmented colors. Colors that most often experience problems with fading are reds, dark blues, dark browns, and dark greens (Billiter). Most manufacturers have a warning on their color charts to advise you of these problems. Not all manufactures have color charts for their acrylic colors rather they match to paint chips found at your local paint store. Sand/Cement Stucco Cladding Color. Cement stucco is pigmented with dry pigment powders that are mined from the ground. Because these naturally occurring


pigments are very limited, cement stucco only has approximately 50 colors available. Your contractor can achieve a range of light to dark for each color. The most common colors used today are pastel colors and new trends are going towards earthy tones. The future holds more vibrant and darker colors as manufacturers experiment with new pigments and bases. You may request a color chart from most manufacturers. Both types of stucco have color that goes below the surface, so a scratch or abrasion shows more of the same color underneath. Deeper colors require additional pigment and are priced higher than lighter shades. Stucco Texture Acrylic stucco comes in 2 common textures, sand float and scroll. These textures can differ in the size of the aggregate used and are referred to as fine, medium and coarse. Some contractors have their own style of finish and can create unique looks. Cement stucco has an endless variety of textures that can be achieved. There are no industry standards for classification or application techniques. What is commonly known as Spanish texture may be quite different in Ohio than it is in BC (Melander 43). Many contractors have their own style of application and can achieve different looks. Asking your contractor what he is skilled in will open up texture possibilities. Figure 1 is a selection of common stucco textures.

Figure 1: A Selection of Common Stucco Textures

Web Design Briar Design Brick Design Brocade Broomed Californian

Combed English Float Frieze Heavy Lace Heavy Texture


Renaissance Spanish Tapestry Travertine Adobe Source for all textures: Wall & Ceiling, 1988.


BUILDING CLADDING SYSTEMS USING STUCCO Traditional Stucco Systems

There are 3 types of stucco cladding systems commonly used. The traditional stucco system, which can use cement or acrylic finish, and the exterior insulated finish systems, which use acrylic stucco on foam and rainscreen systems, which have a cavity for moisture drainage. Figure 2 shows a traditional stucco wall assembly viewed from the sheathing of the exterior wall out.

Figure 2: Traditional Stucco System

Source: Imasco Minerals, 2001

Traditional stucco systems have the following elements:

o Framing: Framing can be wood stud, steel stud or concrete. Most single-family

homes have wood framing. Multifamily homes have predominately been wood framing but an increase in concrete construction has occurred in the last 5 years.

o Sheathing: Most wood frame construction uses OSB. DensGlass Gold is

generally used for steel stud construction in Canada. There should be a gap between sheets of OSB or DensGlass Gold at vertical and horizontal joints.

o Weather barrier: Weather barriers provide a secondary barrier against moisture.

On wood frames it is building paper or Tyvek. The Northwest Wall & Ceiling Association recommends 2 layers of 30-minute building paper. Tyvek may be used but should never be in contact with the stucco as chemical reactions may occur and cause the cement to weaken. A layer of building paper must be applied between the Tyvek and the basecoat (Nudds).


o Wire lath: Wire lath may be 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” or 2” x 2” self-furring welded wire. It is stapled or nailed over the building paper. It will support and reinforce the cement plaster basecoat.

o Basecoat: A conventional stucco system consists of three coats of portland

cement plaster referred to as the scratch, brown, and finish coats. Basecoat is usually applied to ¾” thickness. The basecoat is not pigmented and mechanically bonds to the wire. Manufacturer proprietary basecoats now exist that may be applied as one coat. Imasco’s GreatWall and Lahabra’s One Coat Wall are examples of these. The one coat system can be applied at ¾” or ½” thickness and contain additives and fibers to provide the required strength. Both ways are approved by the building code and are often used by engineering firms (Knowles).

o Finish Coat: Cement Stucco is pigmented primarily with mined mineral oxides

and comes in a limited variety of colors but with unlimited texture styles. Acrylic stucco is typically an acrylic based flexible coating that is used over cementitious basecoats. Acrylic stucco has smaller aggregates that produce a monolithic look and can be tinted to almost any color.

o Other Stucco Assemblies: There are several other substrates that stucco may be

applied to.

Figure 3 illustrates the elements when stucco is applied directly to concrete blocks.

Figure 3: Stucco Directly Applied to Concrete Masonry

Source: Portland Cement Resource Guide, 2002


Figure 4: shows a traditional stucco system over steel studs.

Figure 4: Steel Frame with DensGlas Gold Sheathing


Steel stud construction is most common in commercial and high-rise buildings. The sheathing and studs is the only difference from a wood frame traditional system. Rainscreen What is a Rainscreen? Rainscreen technology is not a new concept but has experienced considerable growth and additional research since the leaky condo crisis. A traditional stucco system, like the one above, uses the principle that any water that gets into the wall will drain at the flashing outlets. In some climates and in some architectural styles it is believed that this drainage is not adequate due to heavy moisture intrusion. A rainscreen is a method of design that puts a cavity in the wall to provide a path for water to travel on its way to the flashing outlets. A rainscreen does not make flashings less important rather the opposite is true. Because there is a cavity for drainage in the wall the water must have adequate places to get out and flashings provide this escape. Do You Need a Rainscreen? The need for a rainscreen wall system depends on the type of construction, the weather conditions in the region and on building codes. The City of Vancouver now demands a ¾” rainscreen cavity on all buildings. The building codes in all other municipalities of BC do not specify if a rainscreen is required. In many commercial buildings and buildings that have an engineer on the project rainscreens are very common. Most single-family homes do not incorporate a rainscreen due to the associated costs. There are additional costs for materials and for installation of those materials. If a single family home has appropriate flashings, proper weather barrier installation, and roof overhangs a rainscreen is not required. Multifamily homes should always have some type of rainscreen incorporated into the building. Chun Tang, a rainscreen architectural representative, says that most architects and engineers now


incorporate rainscreens in multifamily housing and believe it is a necessary system for the west coast environment (Tang). Types of Rainscreens. There are many different types of rainscreens in the market today. The differences are often related to the type of framing that the building has. The same materials are used over the rainscreen as in Traditional or acrylic stucco systems. Weather barriers are a very important part of the rainscreen system. They provide the protection for the sheathing when the water is following its path out of the wall. Refer to the above weather barriers section for more information. Rainscreen systems can be used with cement stucco, acrylic stucco, or EIFS.

Figure 5 shows one type of rainscreen system applied over wood framing and wood sheathing.

Figure 5: Open Framed Rainscreen Construction


This type of system uses 2 layers of building paper as weather resistant barrier. Strips of treated wood are used to create the cavity with paper backed metal lath applied over these strips. A metal flashing is at the bottom of the stucco to provide the exit point for moisture.


Figure 6 shows a rainscreen system that uses a drainage medium to create the cavity.

Figure 6: Rainscreen with Drainage Medium


Figure 7 shows a rainscreen system that uses grooved foam to create a cavity.

Figure 7: RainGuard ICS System



This is a manufacturer proprietary system by Imasco Minerals that has foam with a ¾” cavity. The foam does not provide much insulation value as it is vented at the top and bottom of the wall to create drainage and drying.

Exterior Insulated Finish Systems

What is EIFS? Exterior Insulated Finish Systems are cladding systems that provide

thermal insulation with Polystyrene foam. EIFS are used to provide extra insulation and to create many types of architectural styles. EIFS systems have been used in Canada and the US for over 25 years (Nudds). There are many different manufacturers each with many different types of systems.

Framing. EIF systems can be applied over wood framing or steel studs.

Sheathing. Most wood frame construction uses OSB. DensGlass Gold is generally used for steel stud construction in Canada. There should be a gap between sheets of OSB or DensGlass Gold at vertical and horizontal joints.

Weather Barrier. This provides a secondary barrier against moisture. For wood framing it is building paper or Tyvek. Over DensGlass Gold liquid weather barriers are applied. Often a thicker product is applied over the joints in the sheathing along with a material backed mesh. Then a thinner product is applied over the entire surface of the DensGlass Gold. The color of this coating varies as every manufacturer tints theirs a different color.

Foam. The foam for EIFS is either attached mechanically or adhesively. When applied mechanically, screws with specially designed plastic washers attach the foam to the wood studs. The plastic heads must be counter sunk into the foam to ensure a smooth wall without bumps. When foam is adhesively attached ribbons of adhesive are applied to the back of the foam and then the foam is pushed in place. The foam usually comes in 1” thick pieces and a building may have from 1 – 5 inches of foam. The more foam the more insulation the building will have.

Basecoat and Mesh. EIF systems use 2 layers of a cementitious basecoat applied around a fiber woven mesh. Armour mesh can be applied instead to make the finished wall more resistant to dents and abrasions. This mesh is thicker and stronger than the regular mesh that is usually applied.

Acrylic Finish Coat. EIFS only uses acrylic finish coats. This lightweight acrylic finish provides the final barrier to the wall. Acrylic stucco can be tinted to almost any color and has a flatter more monolithic look than cement stucco.

Foam Shapes. A recent development is the use of foam shapes on buildings. The

foam shapes can be added to any of the building systems and provide architectural elements such as quoins, keystones, arches, cornices, and decorative bands. These shapes are attached to the basecoat with an adhesive prior to applying the finish coat.


Figure 8 illustrates an adhesive EIFS system over DensGlass Gold.

Figure 8: Adhesive EIF System


Figure 9 shows an EIFS system that is mechanically attached with a rainscreen system.

Figure 9: Mechanically Attached EIFS Rainscreen System


This system uses grooved foam to create a cavity for moisture to drain out. Only the first inch of foam is grooved and it is applied mechanically to the wood framing.


THE BUILDING ENVELOPE Definition The building envelope includes all the building components that separate the indoors from the outdoors. Building envelopes include the exterior walls, foundations, roof, windows and Doors (HPO). Figure 10 below shows the components of the building envelope separating the exterior from the interior of the building.

Figure 10: Wall Assembly Components: The Building Envelope

Source: HPO, 1999 The performance of the building envelope is impacted by a number of sub-systems, such as heating, cooling and ventilating equipment, plumbing and electrical systems. The interaction of the sub systems with the components of the building envelope, as well as certain activities of the occupants, can affect the performance of the building envelope (HPO). Purpose The building envelope should keep out:

o temperature extremes o moisture, as vapor or liquid o dust o wind

Additionally, to maintain durability, the building envelope should not permit weather elements to be trapped inside the walls. This may cause wall components to deteriorate, and


continue to decay. In the early stages, it can usually be remedied relatively inexpensively but as time progresses, costs increase tremendously (HPO). Maintenance and Inspection The building envelope requires regular inspection and maintenance. Some maintenance guides suggest the exterior of the building does not need much attention in the early years. The numerous failures of building envelopes in the costal climate zone of B.C. suggests that it is wise to have an inspection program in place that starts in the first year of occupancy in a building and continues annually thereafter. This inspection should be done by an experienced professional. If problems can be detected early, before obvious damage is caused, they can be remedied at much less expense and while any existing warranty programs are still in effect. If your strata corporation does not have a schedule for maintenance and inspection of the building envelope:

o Communicate the need for this precaution in writing to the strata council. o Attend the Annual General Meeting (AGM) and explain why a maintenance

program is important. If possible give examples of problems encountered by other condominium complexes that were aggravated by the lack of a maintenance program.

o Put forth in a motion to the AGM the need for a maintenance program and that it is recorded in the minutes of the meeting (HPO).

Problem Detection A problem likely exists if there is:

o no regular inspection and preventative maintenance program in place o mold or fungi formation o wood rot o water flowing down the sides of the building instead of running off from the

eaves and drainpipes o wind blowing through the walls o peeling paint o cracked or missing sealants (caulking) or if there are: o water stains on inside walls, ceilings or inside the foundation o gaps that allow the weather to get through the walls o pools of water on the decks o windows that are wet on the inside

These problems may not all be related to the failure of the building envelope:

o Some may be localized maintenance items that can be fixed relatively inexpensively

o Some may be caused by interior systems in the unit. For example, an un-vented clothes dryer will create moisture inside.


o Some are caused by certain activities of the occupants. For example, hanging wet clothes inside will create excessive moisture (HPO).

If any of these symptoms are present, do not ignore them and do not delay in determining the cause. If you live in a condominium a building envelope failure is a problem for the entire strata corporation where everybody pays. Damaging Elements and Damage Prevention The Building Envelope must be constructed to be durable and maintainable. In order for this to hold the Building Envelope must survive under normal conditions of use for a given period of time and the materials used as well as the systems must be familiar and safely accessible to professionals. Over time, conditions of weather and use take their duty and buildings get old. Elements of nature like water, ice, snow, wind, and sunlight persistently work on the building envelope to break it down. Besides the environmental factors people have some impact on the durability of a building. Sometimes, damage is done intentionally through acts of vandalism. Therefore it is essential that the designer and the builder employ the highest standards in technical design and execution. Following are some observations about the behavior of the elements that attack buildings, and some ideas to minimize their impact.

Water Collection. In the absence of slope, water will collect or pond. The most efficient way to get rid of unwanted water, then, is to slope surfaces so water never has a chance to accumulate.

Trapped Water. Water trapped in dark, stagnant voids can contribute to rot and decay of organic building materials such as rust of steel framing and attached devices. This may encourage the growth of molds and fungi that can lead to human discomfort and disease. Avoid trapping moisture by ventilating void spaces and by insuring that vapor permeable materials are used on the exterior. Waterproofing. Great care must be taken in the design and construction of waterproofing membranes, especially at perimeters and penetrations. At buried membranes, the perimeter flashings must extend above grade, and terminate with metal counter flashing. At exposed roofing, perimeter flashing must extend at least 12-inches above the level of the roof.

Rain Penetration. Generally there are three factors, which are needed for water to penetrate into a building, presence of water on the exterior of the building, an opening for the water to move through, and a driving force (such as wind or gravity). Wind will create a pressure difference between indoors and outdoors. This pressure change occurs primarily at the most airtight element in the wall construction. This airtight material is referred to as the air-barrier. Walls protected by a type of protection system (face seal wall assemblies) rely on creating a completely resistant barrier to water at the outer face of the wall. This is also the air barrier, thus it is at the surface at which the pressure drop occurs. This surface is frequently wetted,


and any imperfections in the cladding will certainly lead to air movement through the holes, which in turn will create the driving force required to bring the water into the wall assembly, and trap it there. The water remains in the wall or dries slowly, causing deterioration of components. Figure 11 graphically shows the performance of one type of system. (face seal wall assemblies) Figure 11: Performance of Face Seal Wall Assemblies

Source: HPO, 2002 There is another type of technology (rainscreen systems), which recognizes that some incidental water may penetrate the exterior cladding, but allows this water to drain through the rainscreen cavity. In the figure shown below, the air barrier is illustrated to occur across the sheathing paper that is on the exterior surface of the sheathing. The cladding is not air tight, and in fact, deliberate openings are left to facilitate drainage and drying. The pressure drop occurs primarily at the sheathing paper. By moving the pressure drop away from the cladding, the driving force is removed from the cladding, which greatly reduces the potential for water to move past it. The small amount of water that passes through the cladding drains through the cavity, leaving the interior of the wall assembly dry (HPO).


Figure 12: Performance of Rainscreen Wall Assemblies

Source: HPO, 2000 Wind Driven Rain. Wind-driven rain has a tendency to fall “up” at the upper story of a tall building. This causes the upper portion of the wall to get wet first during a rain, and to stay wet longer after the rain stops. Variations in architectural form can break-up the wind-driven rain and reduce this phenomenon. Wind can force water into cavities behind flashing and around wall openings. Further, water flowing down the face of a wall will turn horizontally into the building at window heads and soffits. Water also has a tendency to migrate between two adjacent surfaces through capillary action. Water movement must be controlled “by design” so it doesn’t result in damage to the building. Buildings are made of a composite of many pieces, and there is a joint between every one of them. Since each joint on a building is a potential leak, their number should be minimized. If this is not realistic, an option might be to design the exterior cladding as a pressure equalized rainscreen. The exterior cladding deflects most of the rain (water) and the building wall stops the rest. Joints between cladding elements should be kept wide enough to prevent capillary action, and shaped to direct most of the rain back to the outside. Joints behind the cladding in the building wall and penetrations for windows and doors are made waterproof. Humid Air. Outdoor warm humid air can enter a building through cracks around windows and doors. When this happens water vapor enters too therefore, air barriers must be used around all wall penetrations. Water vapor is everywhere and on a warm day may be attempting to exit the building through the building envelope system. Water vapor can go through solid objects like gypsum wallboard, and even concrete and masonry unless there is a fully sealed vapor barrier in its way. In the Pacific Northwest, this vapor barrier is placed on the interior (warm) side of the building envelope insulation.


Freezing of Water. As water freezes it expands. Similarly, as ice thaws it again expands as it changes state back to a liquid. This action known as the “freeze / thaw cycle” can cause a great deal of damage. Building materials must not be allowed to hold water where the potential for freeze / thaw damage exists due to expansion and contraction. Expansion of Building Materials. Building materials expand and contract with change in temperature, but each moves at its own rate. An aluminum window in a masonry opening is usually separated from the masonry by a soft joint of sealant. In most cases the joint movement being considered is perpendicular to the joint, but in fact, the greatest movement is parallel to the joint because of the difference in expansion of the aluminum window and the masonry wall. This parallel movement can stretch the soft sealant joint beyond its deign capability. When making a decision about building design and material selection this different rate of expansion must be considered. Expansion joints and seismic joints move, by design. They are covered with something that allows this movement to occur while repelling most of the weather that strikes them. However, there are also joints in these joint covers. The best way to keep water from entering the building at these joints is to place them out of the weather. Seismic joints should never be buried. Expansion joints should never be placed in a horizontal surface if they are expected to keep out water. Two layers of cover should always be provided. Sunlight. Many sealants are vulnerable to damage from ultra-violet light. Sunlight may also shorten the life of some paints and coatings. The best prevention for this problem is to use materials that are UV stable. In some cases this may not be possible, but the geometry of the building or cladding system should be made to “shade” these vulnerable materials from exposure.


WHY USE STUCCO? Benefits of Use

Design Versatility.

o Conforms to any variety of shapes, forms, arches, and ornamental configurations.

o Can be applied in an almost limitless variety of textures, finishes and colors to increase aesthetic impact and harmony with environment.

Fire Resistance.

o Classified as noncombustible material. o Surface burning characteristics have a flame spread of zero and smoke

development of zero. O Stucco provides up to 1 hour of fire resistance, a feature that sets stucco apart

from other economical wall cladding finishes. O Stucco clad assemblies can achieve a fire rating of 1-4 hours.

Water Resistance.

o Stucco performs in a variety of climatic conditions, enduring wet/dry and freeze/thaw cycles without a problem.

o Water resistant when properly mixed, applied and adequately cured a ¾ inch cement plaster membrane.

o Vapor permeable (conditions apply as above), 100% acrylic and silicone-enhanced finishes allow moisture vapor from the interior of the house to escape while repelling rain and weather. Vapor molecules are small enough to pass through the surface though water droplets are not.

Value for Seismic Loads.

o Acts as a reinforced concrete shear wall. o Applying an engineered stucco finish to a house can take it from high risk to

very low risk. o Safer for people during and after earthquake, saving lives and money

(Goldsworthy).

Low Maintenance Costs.

o Stucco is a durable surface easily cleaned with a water hose. o It has excellent color retention, and can be refinished with a topcoat of the same

or different color. o No peeling or chipping occurs. o No painting or refinishing required, resulting in savings as much as $5000.00

every 5 years.


Insect Proof.

o Stucco is not susceptible to attack from insects, rodents, or other drilling or boring creatures.

Impact and Abuse Resistance.

o Stucco’s hard surface and metal lath reinforcement make it highly resistant to physical abuse.

o Exceptional protection from hail.

Noise Resistance.

o Stucco’s nature and heavy mass reduces noise transmission much more effectively than other competing cladding choices. Because it seals openings when applied, it seals paths that noise could follow.

Economical.

o The cost combined with its versatility and aesthetic design capabilities make it one of the most cost effective choices for residential and commercial wall cladding systems.

o Costs less per square yard than brick, cedar or Hardiplank

Figure 13 shows the difference in cladding system pricing of vinyl, cement stucco, acrylic stucco, cedar siding, and brick.

Figure 13: Cost Comparison of Various Types of Exterior Cladding Systems

Source: Imasco Minerals, Inc., 2002.

0

5000

10000

15000

20000

25000

30000

Vinyl Stucco Acrylic Cedar Brick


All comparisons include the cost of materials and application labor. Cedar siding includes the cost to paint or stain the siding as well. Stucco is a very economical choice because although it is only slightly higher than vinyl siding it will last much longer and will not dent or warp like vinyl.

Energy Efficiency.

o Stucco can cut exterior air infiltration and reduce heat loss through the wall. o The dew point-the temperature at which water vapor condenses-is located on the

outside of the wall in stucco claddings, reducing the possibility that condensation will collect in the walls, possibly freezing and causing damage.

Figure 14 represents the visual view of the wall as it appears if dissected. This view helps to visualize the location of the dew point.

Figure 14: Dew Point Location in Stucco Cladding

Source: Sto Corporation, 2002 Comparison: Other Claddings

Design Versatility.

o Brick offers the designer a limited number of shapes, sizes and colors.

Fire Resistance and Pests Control.

o If Vinyl is used the house’s siding can melt or burn if a house next door is on fire.

o Vinyl and wood sidings allow pests; bugs build a nest behind the siding. o Woods sidings will burn.


Water Resistance.

o Like a sponge, brick is porous so it absorbs and holds water and water easily gets through the cladding.

o Wind will drive water through a brick wall. o Rot happens in structures beneath brick but it is hard to inspect and test for such

damage, making eventual repairs more extensive and costly (Sto Corp.).

Maintenance.

o Other claddings require painting every 5 years resulting in very high costs. o Vinyl and wood will warp and twist, unlike stucco.

Seismic Tests from Research at UBC.

o Engineering research at UBC labs provided preliminary results to show how

wall assemblies with stucco demonstrate a remarkable resistance to damage from earthquakes. The research was also done on other claddings and cementitious stucco obtained the best results by providing significant damage mitigation by acting to restrain the wood frame wall from deforming under tremendous stress (Gene).

Earthquake test: A test of an equivalent of 4 earthquakes showed that a building with stucco cladding showed very limited damage to the stucco cladding itself and no damage to the structural wood frame and drywall. The same building without the stucco resulted in a building that could not be occupied after one earthquake (Gene).

Energy Efficiency.

o Brick mortar joints, which often have voids, crack or are porous, offer thousands of outlets for air to infiltrate and heat to be lost (Sto Corp.).

Figure 15 shows the percentages of heat loss that may occur when brick is used in the construction


Figure 15: Heat Loss in Brick Cladding

Source: Sto Corporation, 2002

o The dew point in brick cladding is typically in the interior of the cladding, increasing the chance that moisture will condense within the wall, possibly freezing and causing damage (Sto Corp.).

Figure 16 demonstrates the a dissected brick wall showing the location of the dew point

Figure 16: Dew Point Location in Brick Cladding

Source: Sto Corporation, 2002


STUCCO PROBLEMS THAT CAN OCCUR Cracking Why Cracking Occurs and Types of Cracks. There are several reasons that cracks can occur in stucco. Most cracks in the finish coat are aesthetic in nature and do not damage the integrity of the building structure. Craze cracks are one type of aesthetic crack that looks like fine, short cracks. These can be caused by an excessive amount of water in the stucco mix, or rapid drying of the stucco wall (Geary 1). Shrinkage cracks are another type of crack that is mostly aesthetic in nature unless the cracks are more than ¼” wide. Shrinkage cracks are caused by different thickness of stucco on the wall, improper stucco curing, application during hot, dry windy weather, or insufficient control joints (Geary 1). Stud cracks are straight-line vertical fractures, which appear over or near framing studs. These can be caused by warping or twisting of studs, shrinking studs, vibrations from heavy traffic, vibrations from machinery, and severe blows from swinging doors. Stud cracks can be aesthetic in nature if they are smaller than ¼” in width. Cracks that are larger than ¼” may indicate more serious problems. An inspector or engineer needs to review the building to look for other problems. How to Repair Cracks. If cracks are very thin they may be brushed with a resin and overlaid with a thin application of patching material. If the crack is wide enough a paste-type patching material can be inserted in the opening. Prepare the wall for patching by:

o Dry scrub along the edges of the cracks with a stiff-bristle brush: • Brushing should remove all loose stucco as well as collected debris. • A hose may be used to clean out debris from the opening. • The wall must be allowed to drain and dry prior to patching.

o An acrylic resin and a patching material can be purchased from a building supply store.

o The acrylic resin should be brushed along the crack opening. o Immediately afterwards insert the patching material into the crack to just above

the level of the stucco. o Keep the filled crack moist for two or three days after with an occasional gentle

spray of water. • If the finish is acrylic stucco do not keep moist until the day after

application, as the liquid acrylic needs to convert to its solid state first. • If the finish is cement stucco a patch that matches the existing color may be

difficult to achieve. Fogcoating is suggested to fix this problem. (see fogcoat section)

Color Problems What causes color problems? Variations in color on stucco walls is a problem that does occur. The variation may appear as a difference in color from one wall to the next or as blotchiness over the entire surface. The reasons these variations can occur are: very hot


or very cold weather, problems with mixing the stucco, or using different batches of stucco or pigment from the manufacturer (Geary 1). In cement stucco it is very difficult to achieve dark colors and mixes often end up lighter than the chosen color. Manufacturers warn against darker colors for several reasons. (Refer to the color section in what is stucco) It is wise to have your contractor make a sample of the color before applying to your home. Acrylic stucco needs to be applied in temperatures above 4 degrees Celsius. The acrylic will not harden normally if temperatures go below 4 degrees for a 48-hour period after application (Quan 1). Fixing Color Problems. Cement stucco can be fogcoated to fix a variety of color problems. The fogcoating will even out the existing color or can be used to change the color of the building. (Refer to the fogcoating section) Although acrylic stucco cannot be fogcoated, in severe cases another layer of acrylic may be applied to the finish. Another option is painting the acrylic. Efflorescence What is Efflorescence? Efflorescence is a deposit, usually white in color that may form on the surface of masonry or concrete construction. It usually emerges just after the completion of a structure. Even though it is unappealing and usually harmless, these deposits can occur within the material’s surface pores, leading to expansion that may disturb the surface.

What Causes Efflorescence? Efflorescence is caused by a combination of circumstances. First, soluble salts must exist in the material. Second, moisture must be present in order to dissolve the soluble salts. Third, evaporation or hydrostatic pressure must cause the solution to move toward the surface (Portland 4). And fourth, in order to leave the salts behind as efflorescence, the solution must evaporate. In particular, efflorescence is affected by temperature, humidity, and wind. In most cases, salts that cause efflorescence come from beneath the surface, but chemicals in the materials can react with chemicals in the atmosphere to form efflorescence (Portland 4). Soil in contact with basement and retaining walls is another basis of salts. It is difficult to anticipate efflorescence and when it will appear, due to the many issue that influence its formation. However, efflorescence will not occur if

o soluble salts are eliminated o moisture is eliminated o water passage thorough the mass is prevented (Portland 4)


EXTERIOR BUILDING MAINTENANCE Stucco is one component of the building exterior. It functions as part of a system that includes windows, decks membranes, flashings, sealants, roofs, eaves troughs and down pipes. All of these components perform an important role within the building envelope to avoid moisture penetration to the interior of the building. If one component has failed it is not possible for another component to remedy the situation. It is important to understand that all components must be maintained in order for the buildings exterior envelope to work. Preventative Maintenance The first step to exterior building maintenance is to be aware of situations that will cause damage to the exterior cladding.

1. Always ensure that all roof water (rain or snow melt) is controlled from the roofing material into the eaves troughs and drains freely through the down pipes safely away from the building s exterior. Diversion flashings properly installed at roof and gutter termination points to ensure the water is entering the eaves troughs and not leaking between the eaves troughs and the stucco. This procedure will prevent unsightly staining and also eliminate erosion of the stucco cladding.

2. Also maintaining the entire eaves trough and down pipe system free from debris to

allow maximum water flow to ensure adequate draining during heavy precipitation.

3. When underground sprinklers are installed, ensure the spray is directed away from the stucco cladding, constant saturation will cause erosion and possibly separation of the finish coat from the basecoat; especially during the times of the year when below freezing temperatures are common during the night.

Inspection Tips Building maintenance is an endless task and requires visual inspections at least twice a year. The following inspection checklist is intended as a guide to maintaining your stucco cladding, and if you have any concerns that stem from your inspections contact a professional to assist with the remedial repair description and proper procedure of the necessary repairs to achieve successful results. Provide temporary protection from all water penetration until permanent repairs are complete.

1. Inspect the appearance of the stucco cladding, first to determine which stucco system you have on your building.

2. Once you have determined you have Conventional Portland Cement Stucco proceed

to inspect the appearance of the wall, checking for dirt, stains, cracking, spalling, or efflorescence.


3. Inspect caulking for elasticity and ensure the caulking is well bonded to the Substrate. Also check the caulking around the perimeter of the windows as well as the mitered corners. If there are weep holes in the window track, be sure they are clear and allow drainage.

4. Inspect flashings to ensure they are directing water away from the wall.

5. All vinyl decks and decking membranes to be inspected for tears, cut or

delamination at joints. Owners are required to take the necessary care to avoid such damage, should it occur repairs should be made immediately.

NOTE: Other building items and components, which may affect the integrity of the wall

system, should be properly maintained and periodically inspected. Visually inspect all sealed joints, roofs, etc. at least twice a year. If deficiencies are found, contact the appropriate manufacturer or applicator.

Cleaning Only minimal care is needed to keep stucco attractive for many decades. The most important item of care is periodic washing of soffits and walls, as should be done of any other exterior cladding.

General Cleaning. To remove ordinary dirt and environmental contaminants, finish may be cleaned with a mild detergent solution or commercial-grade cleaner. Prepare the surface for cleaning by thoroughly rinsing the wall with clean water to remove surface particles. A typical hose nozzle attached to the hose with standard water pressure cleans very effectively. The walls should be washed from The Bottom to the Top. One should never start hosing any wall from the top, until the bottom and all wall area above the base of the wall have been wet thoroughly, to overcome absorption. The purpose of this method of treatment is to prevent dirty water from being absorbed into the stucco cladding below. Apply the cleaning solution to the entire areas using a soft bristle brush. Do not allow the cleaning solution to dry on the wall. Rinse the wall thoroughly with clean water to remove all traces of loosened dirt and cleaning solution. Repeat as necessary. If the wall is heavily soiled, contact a professional for recommendations. The roof and windowsills should only be washed after all wall surfaces have been thoroughly wet. Table 1 shows various conditions that can occur with stucco along with the necessary product to remedy the situation and the product’s manufacturer and dealer.


Table 1: Cleaners for Cementitious Stuccos

Condition Product Manufacturer Dealer

Efflorescence

Krystol Dark or Light Masonry Cleaner

Kryton (604) 324-8280

Cascade Aquatech (604) 291-6101 Vancouver (250) 381-3623 Victoria (403) 571-4080 Calgary

Krystol Spray-N-Shine or

Krystol Klean 725 Kryton

Mildew or Mold

Shell Buseys Cleaning Formula

Napier Environmental

Technologies Inc. 1-800-663-9274

Krystol Spray-N-Shine Kryton

Dirt Shell Buseys Cleaning Formula


Technologies Inc. 1-800-663-9274

Shell Busey HouseSmart Centers

Revy

General Paint

Rust Krystol ABC Kryton

Krystol Klean 777


Technologies Inc. 1-800-663-9274 Grease

Shell Buseys Cleaning Formula Kryton

Source: Imasco Minerals Inc., 2002. If one of the above conditions arises, you may contact the associated manufacturer or proceed to the closest indicated dealer in order to obtain the necessary product. NOTE: When using commercial-grade cleaners, always follow manufacturers’ recommendations. Prior to cleaning first test the cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area to assess the strength of the solution and ensure no harmful effects to the finish. Pressure Washing. Pressure washing is not recommended. If necessary or desired, a qualified applicator must operate the equipment and low pressure only, may be used (2068-3447 kPa/300-500PSI) (Imasco). Use cold water and do not apply bleach, acid, abrasives or any other materials that may damage the stucco cladding. Frequent power washing or the use of hot water should be avoided, since it may result in premature deterioration of the finish coat. Mold and Mildew Removal. Mold and mildew are living organisms, consisting of a root system and a “bloom”, which must be completely removed or killed to stop growth. To kill the roots and remove the bloom, use a fungus and algae remover such as MP2106 by


Max Products in conjunction with a low-pressure power washer (Imasco). Cold-water power washing alone will remove the bloom, but it may actually drive the roots deeper into the finish and create a stronger, healthier growth. Avoid phosphate-based cleaners such as TSP (trisodium phosphate) when cleaning mold and mildew. Although TSP and other phosphate-based cleaners may be useful for removing dirt, mold and mildew thrive on phosphates. Mold and Mildew Stain Removal. To treat stains that may remain after mold and mildew removal, apply a solution of 1 part household bleach to 20 parts clean water to the wall with a soft bristle brush. Rinse the wall thoroughly with clean water to remove all traces of bleach solution. Efflorescence Removal. Once efflorescence has been identified, the cause of moisture should be identified and corrective measures taken to keep water out of the structure. Dry brushing; water rinsing with brushing, light waterblasting, or light sandblasting followed by flushing with clean water will remove most efflorescence. If this is not satisfactory, it may be necessary to wash the surface with a dilute solution of murlatic acid (1 to 10 percent) (Portland 5). For integrally colored concrete, only a 1 to 2 percent solution should be used to prevent surface etching that may reveal the aggregate and hence change color and texture (Portland 5). Always dampen the wall surface with clean water prior to applying the acid solution to prevent the acid from being absorbed deeply into the wall where damage may occur. Application should be to small areas of not more than 4 sq ft at a time, with a delay of about 5 minutes before scouring off the salt deposits with a soft bristle brush (Portland 5). Following this treatment, the surface should be immediately and thoroughly flushed with clean water to eliminate all traces of acid. The surface should be thoroughly flushed with water and allowed to dry if it is to be painted. It is often helpful to determine the type of salt in the efflorescence so that a cleaning solution can be found that radically dissolves the efflorescence without adversely affecting the masonry or concrete (Portland 5). The cleaner should be tested on a small, inconspicuous area before it is used on any masonry or concrete wall to be certain there is no unfavorable effect. The whole wall should be treated to avoid discoloration or monled effects, since acid and other treatments may to some extent alter the appearance. Recoating Fog Coating. Fog or brush coat is a pigmented cement paint made for colored cement stucco finish (Northwest). When cured, fog coat will be an essential element of the stucco finish and will not peel or chip like traditional paint. Fog coating is not recommended for a complete color change; however it is an effective and economical technique to attain color consistency with colored cement stucco finish. It can also be used to cover up many types of stains.


Warnings. Surfaces that have been painted or sealed should not be applied with fog coat. Surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned before fog coating especially those containing oil, efflorescence, dust, dirt or foreign material. Stucco walls must be dry prior to spraying fog coat and kept dry for 3 days after spraying (Northwest). For smooth trowel or mission textures, a binder or bonding agent may be needed for the fog coat (consult manufacturer) (Northwest). Materials. The same manufacturer that supplied the integral cement finish coat is recommended to provide a factory prepared bag of fog or brush coat. Fog coat is a dry bag material that consists of portland cement and hydrated lime (fog base) (Northwest). The color may or may not be pre-blended in the bag (Northwest). The color (oxide pigments) may be supplied in a bag or box, which is separate from the base. Fog coat may need extra pigment to match shading because of environmental conditions and textures. Preparation. Prior to application, dirty surfaces should be brushed clean. Surfaces that contain efflorescence or rust stains should be washed days before fog coating to permit the stucco to fully dry. In order to hide very dark stained places, pre-fog or brush with a white fog coat. Sections that are not intended for fog coat must be shielded from over spray. Glass and other nonporous surfaces that have been unintentionally over sprayed can be wiped off when the fog coat dries and before it sets. Mixing. Manufacturer’s instructions should be followed. Add water to the consistency of milk when mixing materials. After mixing, pour material into a Hudson or Chapin garden type sprayer through a screen or nylon, which will help prevent the spray tip from clogging (Northwest). Spraying. A test area that can be re-sprayed easily if needed should always be sprayed first. This area should be in a place that will enable the applicator to decide if the color shading is right for the building. If the color shade is too light, some oxide box pigment can be added to deepen the shade (Northwest). If the color shade is too dark, base fog coat material can be added to lighten the shade (Northwest). The shade color is not altered by adding more water. A circular motion should be used to spray large areas in order to avoid overlap lines. If there are specific blemishes, the entire wall surface does not have to be covered with fog coat. If the shading is right, sections can be re-fogged. When making a single pass, runs and the application of excessive material should be avoided. Painting

How do I Prepare the Surface?

o If the surface has been previously treated with a waterproofing sealer or coating, check the manufacturer specifications before painting.

o Remove all loose, peeling paint or stain. o All surfaces must be free of any undesirable substances. o Patch all holes, crack and surface irregularities with spackle or a quality

masonry patching compound and sand smooth.


o Spot prime all patched areas with acrylic latex primer and sealer tinted to the color of the topcoat.

How do I Apply this Product?

o When working with more than one container of the same color, intermix to ensure color uniformity.

o Stir paint before and occasionally during application. o For best results, paint when surface and air temperatures are between 18°C-26°C

at 50% relative humidity (Behr). Do not apply if temperature is below 10°C or if rain or heavy dew is expected with 24 hours (Behr).

o Avoid applying in direct sunlight to a hot surface. If temperature exceeds 32°C, hose down surface and allow drying to a damp condition before painting.

o For rough surfaces, apply at a spread rate of about 24-28m2 per 3.79 L using a ¾”-1” long nap roller (Behr).

o For smooth surfaces, apply at a spread rate of about 37m2 per 3.79 L using a nylon brush, short nap roller or a quality airless sprayer (Behr).

o If applying a second coat, spread rate is approximately 47m2 per 3.79 L on smooth surfaces; 28m2 per 3.79 L on rough surfaces (Behr).

o Maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. How Long Before it is Dry?

o Dries to touch in approximately two hours at 23°C and 50% relative humidity

(Behr). o Recoat in four hours. o Additional dry time is needed in cooler temperatures and higher humidity. o Cures in about two weeks.


HOME INSPECTION It is important to recognize that it is not the government’s role to ensure that houses and buildings are constructed in conformity with building codes. It is not safe to assume that inspector checks and approves all design and construction details, including the quality of the work, to guarantee the fitness of the new home. Placing complete faith in the system of building codes and inspections to protect you is unwise for several reasons. The Building Code Primary Purpose of the Building Code. The Building Code is intended primarily to ensure that health and safety standards for buildings are met, not to guarantee overall construction quality. A building with a design that meets all Code requirements may still cause problems for the buyer if the design is not properly executed during construction or if the drawings are not sufficiently detailed to guide the workers (HPO). Responsibility of the Government. Local governments enforce the standards established in the Building Code. The municipal building inspection office usually reviews the major construction stages, identifies structural deficiencies and ensures they are corrected before certifying the building as fit for occupancy. Although some municipalities conduct thorough examinations of each construction phase, it is unrealistic to assume (given the complexity of a modern building and the volume of new construction in some areas) that an inspector can ensure the quality of every aspect of every structure. Quite simply, the building inspector cannot witness the pounding of every nail. As such, the building inspection process should be seen as more of an audit of the construction, rather than a comprehensive review of all components. The level of Code enforcement varies throughout the province, depending on the resources and policies of the local government-building department. Levels of inspection may vary from detailed inspections, to cursory spot checks during construction, to no on-site inspection at all. In some places and for some types of buildings, inspectors rely upon private sector professionals (engineers and architects) for their expertise relating to structural requirements and accept certifications of compliance from these professionals. It is important to know that just because the Building Code applies; it does not mean that inspections are done to ensure compliance. Some local governments choose not to enforce the Code. The City of Vancouver does not use the provincial code as it has its own building code (the Vancouver Building Bylaw). Given the above, it is important that you take steps to protect yourself (HPO). Inspectors

Choosing an Inspector. Professional qualifications in the home inspection industry are not regulated by federal, provincial or municipal legislation. Any member of the public or construction industry may promote him/herself as a home inspector, whether or not he/she is fully qualified to do so. To prevent unprofessional conduct it is recommended to hire an inspector registered with a professional organization. Inspection costs vary


depending on the size and structure of your home, you can expect to pay a fee ranging between $250 and $500 (Ioannou). A typical inspection lasts from 2 to 3 hours and it is important that at the end of the session you receive a full, written inspection report that is signed and dated by the inspector. Professional Organizations. The Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors (CAHPI) provide specific guidelines and rules for its members to follow. To become registered home inspectors, members are required to complete specific course work, conduct verified inspections, and carry errors and omissions insurance. There are home inspectors registered with CAHPI in many areas of British Columbia, and a number of associate members who are working toward completing their designated number of inspections. The Western Association of Property Inspectors (WAPI) is another group that qualifies home inspectors. The Applied Science Technologists and Technicians (ASTT) of BC certify WAPI property inspectors who carry errors and omissions insurance, have taken specific courses, and have successfully completed a designated number of inspections. Unfortunately, not every community will have available an inspector registered with one of these organizations. There are likely several home inspectors from whom to choose, some registered architects and engineers offer home inspection services. Steps to Follow When Making a Selection. Before choosing an inspector, you should always ask for a list of services the inspector will perform, a sample written report, and a cost estimate.

o Determine the length of time the inspector has been in business. o Ask for referrals from an impartial real estate sales person, lawyer/notary public,

or friend. o Find out what professional qualifications the inspector has and what other

building trades the inspector is involved in, if any. o If you are buying a condominium, ask whether the inspector is experienced with

such multi-family buildings. o Look for an inspector who carries errors and omissions insurance for the type of

property you are considering buying. For example, if you are considering buying a condominium, make sure the insurance will apply to inspections of strata properties.

o Call some of the inspector’s former clients (HPO 13). Steps to Follow During Inspection.

o Review the written disclaimers that the home inspector will be using in his report as well as the proposed scope of the inspection.

o Check if the inspector enters the attic and crawls spaces. o Check if the inspector examines the roof, the drainage system o If buying a condominium ask how muck of the common property the inspector

will be examining (you are responsible for the share of the repair costs for the entire strata project) (HPO).


To obtain a list of registered inspectors and a quick walk through form “15 Minute Walk Through Guide” accompanied by description of each section visit the CAHPI website www.cahpi.bc.ca


WARRANTIES Please take into account that the following Warranties section is quoted in its entirety from the Homeowners Protection Office document: “Buying a New Home: A Consumers Protection Guide” listed in the works cited at the end of this document. Types of Warranties

Manufacturers’ Warranties. Some building components installed in a home come with a manufacturer’s warranty. In some cases, these warranties may be longer than the warranty provided for the home. It is a good idea for homebuyers to find out exactly what products are covered by a manufacturer’s warranty. It is also essential to obtain all the information possible on the warranties, including instructions for proper maintenance and how to make a claim if any defects are found during the warranty period.

Home Warranties. A new home warranty is a form of protection against problems with the construction of your home. Specified types of problems with the home you buy are covered for a defined time period. Home construction is site-specific and non-standardized, involving many professions, trades, contractors and subcontractors, whose identity most homebuyers may never know. The Homeowner Protection Act provides protection to homebuyers who purchase new homes constructed under building permits applied for on or after May 1, 1999. Most new homes will be required to provide mandatory third-party warranties, as described below. This type of warranty does not apply to:

o homes built by owner-builders o manufactured homes (mobile homes and other factory-built units) o floating homes

Homes constructed under a building permit applied for before May 1, 1999 are not covered by the mandatory third-party warranty provided for under the Homeowner Protection Act. These homes may have no warranty or may carry one or more of the following:

o full warranty meeting the requirements of the Homeowner Protection Act (where a builder has purchased this warranty voluntarily)

o third-party warranty with coverage for labor and materials and major structural defects

o third-party warranty for water penetration o builder’s warranty on some or all components

Before purchasing a home, it is important to be clear about what type of coverage may apply to your home. Keep in mind that well into the year 2000; it will be possible that new homes on the market are not covered by the consumer protection measures of then Homeowner Protection Act.


Mandatory Third - Party Warranties. If you buy a new home constructed under a building permit applied for on or after May 1, 1999, the mandatory third-party new home warranty provisions of the Homeowner Protection Act apply. Warranty coverage must meet specific minimum standards and be provided by a company meeting the requirements of the Act. Such coverage includes:

o up to 2 years for defects in labor and materials o 5 years for water penetration of the building envelope o 10 years for structural defects

Warranties will be provided by private companies based on requirements and conditions set by the B.C. government and coordinated through the Homeowner Protection Office. These companies will be regulated by the Financial Institutions Commission, an agency of the Ministry of Finance and Corporate Relations. None of these companies are owned or managed by government. If you are buying a new home that is covered by a mandatory third-party warranty under the Homeowner Protection Act, it is a good idea to:

o Ask if the builder is offering a warranty in addition to the mandatory coverage under the Act

o Ask for copies of all additional manufacturers’ warranties for components of the home, including the roof, flooring, cabinets, windows, plumbing fixtures and fittings, etc.

o Read all warranty documentation very carefully It is also a good idea to consider having your home inspected by a professional engineer before the end of the 2, 5 and 10 year warranty periods. This will help you determine if there are deficiencies that may otherwise be discovered only after the warranty expires. If problems with the home arise in the first two years, you must contact the warranty company in writing. It is a good idea to send a copy to the builder, and keep a copy for yourself. If disputes with the warranty provider arise during any part of the warranty period, you can request that the matter be addressed through mediation. Your other option is to go to court. Keep in mind that in most cases, disputes can be settled faster and at lower cost by avoiding the court system and using mediation. You may wish to consult with a lawyer before deciding what steps to take. When purchasing a resale home it is important to check the amount of time left under the various home warranty coverages. You can rest assured that if the warranty has not expired, your home will still be covered. All the benefits under the mandatory home warranty insurance policy are automatically transferred to any subsequent owner.


If problems arise with your home and the warranty is still in force, contact the builder and the warranty company in writing. If the warranty has expired, you could try contacting the builder. Legal action and/or mediation are options to consider at this point.

Statutory Warranties. Even after the consumer protection provisions of the Homeowner Protection Act come into force, some homes (e.g. those built by owner-builders) will not be required to provide a mandatory third-party warranty. However, under the Act, there is a ten-year implied warranty that the new home:

o is reasonably fit for habitation o has been constructed from materials that are of good quality and reasonably fit

for the purpose o has been designed and constructed with ordinary competence, skill and care

An owner has 10 years from the date of first occupancy of the new home to take legal action against the owner-builder in case problems arise. This means that if the home has been occupied for 7 years, the statutory protection will apply for a maximum of 3 more years. Any legal action must be started within that 3-year period. If you are planning to buy a home that is exempt from the government regulated mandatory third-party warranty, it is a good idea to:

o Ask for a copy of the Owner-Builder Declaration and Disclosure Notice filed by the owner-builder at the time the building permit was taken out

o Ask if the home is covered by other home warranty insurance o Ask for copies of any manufacturers’ warranties for components of the home,

including the roof, flooring, cabinets, windows, plumbing fixtures and fittings, etc.

o Read all warranty documentation very carefully. o Confirm the date the home was first occupied.

If problems arise, you should seek legal advice. Non-Regulated Warranties. Homes constructed under building permits applied for before May 1, 1999 are not required to have home warranty insurance. If there was a warranty, it may have expired before you purchase the home. If you are planning to buy a new or resale home that is not subject to the warranty provisions of the Homeowner Protection Act, it is a good idea to:

o Ask if there is a warranty (perhaps there never was one, or it may have expired) o If there is a warranty, ask if it is being provided by the builder or by a third-party

warranty company; o Ask for any copies of manufacturers’ warranties for components of the home,

including the roof, flooring, cabinets, windows, plumbing fixtures and fittings, etc.

o Read all warranty documentation very carefully. Builder warranties: A warranty is only as good as the company providing it. Large firms have the resources and incentive to fix problems and keep their customers satisfied. Many


firms aim to build repeat business and brand loyalty. The home building industry has also many smaller local or regional firms. As well, there is generally a higher turnover in home building, with businesses failing or reincorporating under a different legal name. Still, many builders have been in the business for years, and rely on their reputation and word-of-mouth for much of their business. Not all new home warranties are created equal. Some may be provided to you in the form of a verbal promise from the builder or sales agent to fix anything that goes wrong, and may prove difficult to rely on. Others are detailed written warranties provided by the builder or developer. Some contracts expressly state that there are no construction warranties or attempt to narrowly restrict their application. All other things being equal, you should strongly consider buying a new home that comes with a written warranty. Nevertheless, be aware that the warranties offered before May, 1999 are not regulated by government. A written warranty provided by a reputable builder who has been in business for a number of years may be acceptable. If the development is actually built by a separately incorporated numbered company at arm’s length from the parent company or developer, be especially careful to determine the parent company’s track record in backing up its warranties on similar developments. If you are in doubt as to whether the company from which you think you are buying is actually the legal entity that must be around to fix problems, consult your lawyer. Do not accept a verbal promise or warranty that is not backed up in writing. Non-mandatory third-party warranties: Under non-mandatory third-party warranties, the builder applies to register with a warranty company and must agree to abide by the terms of the warranty contract. Companies are screened by the warranty provider before they can offer you a third-party warranty. Once registered, the builder pays a fee to the warranty provider for each home enrolled in the warranty program. That fee is passed on to you in the price of the new home. Benefits of buying a home with a third-party warranty are that independent, third party warranty companies are typically stable and lasting businesses with substantial capital reserves. Some warranty companies provide registered builders with technical bulletins and training opportunities to help improve the quality of construction. Homes covered by a third-party warranty are sometimes inspected by the warranty company during construction. Inexperienced builders, or builders who have had difficulties in the past, may be subjected to closer scrutiny than established companies. For homes with building permits applied for before May 1, 1999, buyers receive whatever coverage the builder and warranty provider decide to offer. All other things being equal, you should look for the longest and most comprehensive warranty available. Extended coverages are available to builders who elect to offer them. The longer the warranty it is the better. Ideally, look for warranty coverages that match the mandatory third-party warranties provided under the Homeowner Protection Act. Warranty companies may be independent or owned by a homebuilders’ organization. None are owned or managed by government.


Under the terms of most common third-party warranties, the builder agrees to stand behind its work for one year, fixing any defects of workmanship and materials that arise within that period and are covered by the warranty contract. If the builder fails to do so, the warranty company will pay for the repairs. After one year, the builder’s responsibility ends and the warranty company itself is responsible for repairing only major structural defects, usually from years two through five. The typical warranty contract defines major structural defects as only those vitally affecting the load-bearing elements of the home. For more accurate details refer to the warranty documents, since coverages may vary form company to company and sometimes they change. Other coverages to look for:

o Refund of deposit or payment to finish construction if the builder fails to complete the development (for reasons of insolvency, etc.).

o Payment of liens placed on your property (if a subcontractor was not fully paid by the builder).

o Water penetration coverage that extends beyond the first year. o Relocation expenses if major repairs are needed. o The ability to transfer the warranty to another buyer if you sell the home during

the warranty period. The availability and maximum dollar values of these coverages may vary with different warranty plans, so be sure to ask and get things in writing. Some warranty companies offer additional coverages or extended plans for an additional fee, but it is usually the builder and not the buyer who can choose to purchase these. Defects in materials or work that you supply or have performed after moving in are not covered, nor is normal wear, lack of maintenance, or damage that you cause. The warranty company’s contract, along with separate schedules and guides, determines what qualifies as a defect of workmanship or materials or a major structural defect. For example, roofs are normally considered part of the building envelope and most problems would not be considered major structural defects. Likewise, water penetration is not usually considered a major structural defect. For non-mandatory third-party warranties, the warranty provider can also establish its own tolerances, such as the width of crack that is considered normal rather than a defect. Review these definitions and standards and discuss any shortcomings you find with the builder. Although you may not be able to change the third-party warranty the builder has already purchased, builders need to know what their buyers expect. Your lawyer/notary public may be able to help you add language to the contract of purchase and sale to address any concerns you still have. If you are not getting the service you expect from the builder, you may request in writing that the warranty provider perform an investigation and conciliation to settle the dispute. The conciliation is meant to be binding on both parties, but it may still be revoked or altered by a court. If the repairs involved are significant and warrant the cost of using a lawyer, your lawyer can help you present your case effectively and protect your rights in conciliation. It is also a good idea to have an engineer present.


Find out whether the person performing the conciliation is an employee of the warranty company or an independent mediator. You and the builder can also agree to independent mediation or arbitration to settle a contractual dispute. If the builder has defaulted on its obligations, or if you experience a major structural defect after the first year of ownership (but still within the warranty period), the warranty company is responsible for ensuring that repairs are made. If the warranty company asks you to sign a release or assignment of claim as a condition of carrying out the repairs, check with your lawyer, because signing may involve giving up rights that you would otherwise have. Warranties and Condominiums In a condominium building, you own not only your unit or strata lot, but also a share of the strata corporation’s common property. If a new condominium is covered by a new home warranty, a separate warranty covers the common property, and it is up to the strata corporation, through the elected strata council, to handle repairs or warranty claims related to common property. You must notify your strata council and property manager in writing if you experience any building or warranty related problems, even if you believe they relate only to your unit. If repairs are required to common property, and they are not covered by a new home warranty or by the strata corporation’s reserve funds, all owners may be required to help pay via a special assessment. You should be aware of the legal requirements around the formation of a strata council in a new condominium development. Since the strata council is responsible for enforcing the warranty on common property, i.e., making claims against the builder, new owners must be vigilant to ensure that their interests are fully protected. You should remember that the quality of the condominium development you buy into, and thus the continuing value of your unit, will be significantly influenced by how well the strata council performs its duties. If you purchase a condominium, you should be prepared to take an active interest in the affairs of the strata corporation and ensure that the strata council is being properly accountable to the strata unit owners. Your Responsibilities Under a Warranty. Read the warranty documents carefully to find out what is excluded and under what conditions you risk losing coverage. To be covered, you must report a problem in writing to the warranty company before the contractual deadline, even if there is no question that the problem existed before the deadline. Prior to possession of a new home, you and the builder will normally fill out a completion inspection certificate or similar document. The process involves identifying any incomplete or deficient work that you observe and that the builder agrees to rectify. Your home inspector can also be present for the inspection and help you fill out the certificate. If the builder fails to fix or complete items noted on the inspection report within a specified period, you should notify the warranty provider in writing. The pre-occupancy inspection is a good time to ask the builder whether your new home comes with a maintenance manual. At the very least, you should make sure you have instruction booklets and warranty information for any appliances or devices that come with the home.


While the home is still under warranty, you can protect yourself by:

o asking the builder and the warranty company to confirm in writing what maintenance you are expected to perform and what documents you are supposed to receive or submit;

o reading the fine print of all forms; o keeping copies of all forms and correspondence; and o making sure you fulfill your responsibilities to keep the warranty in force.

Ask for copies of any schedules you are missing, particularly any guides that describe what qualifies as a defect of workmanship and materials and a major structural defect. The onus is on you to call or write the warranty company sooner rather than later if you experience a problem or have questions about coverage, forms, deadlines, the builder’s obligations, or your responsibilities. If a serious defect arises in your home or if you have any questions that you do not feel have been satisfactorily answered, seek legal advice. It may be a wise investment to have a qualified home inspector or engineer examine your property again before the various parts of your warranty expire. Problems that arise after the warranty period are your responsibility. Problems that occur after the warranty ends become maintenance items rather than original construction defects. Even if they are problems you should not have to expect in a new home, repairs and maintenance are now generally your responsibility.


CHECKLISTS FOR HOMEBUYERS New Stucco Home Purchase

o Assumes you are able to view the building being constructed. o Ensure construction tours are done in the company of a builder representative, as

it is dangerous and illegal to enter homes under construction.

Professional Does the builder have a provincial license? Inquiry (Can check this with the HPO)

Is the builder a member of any trade associations such as: Urban Development Institute Canadian Home Builder’s Association BC Construction Association Wall & Ceiling Association Checked the builder out with the Better Business Bureau Have a court search of companies and directors to find out if builder is involved in any lawsuits.

Home Inspector A home inspector can review the building with you during the completion inspection. Building Elements The building has adequate roof overhangs in a wet coastal

climate Or has a rainscreen system with appropriate flashings Decks slant away from the building so water can drain

Sheathing Wood studs and sheathing are dry prior to weather barriers being applied A 1/8” gap between vertical and horizontal sheathing joints Weather Barriers

Building paper does not have any tears or holes Building paper has not been left exposed to sunlight for more

than 6 months Paper is lapped so that water is always directed away from the sheathing Paper is overlapped 2” horizontally Paper is overlapped 6” vertically Liquid applied weather barriers cover the entire sheathing surface

with special mesh covering the joints. Wire Lath

Applied so that it is tight to the paper without bending the furring legs

Flashings Expansion joints are present at each floor level There are flashings over all windows, doors and vents


Basecoat Applied in temperatures above 2 degrees Celsius Basecoat completely cover the wire lath Basecoat is left to cure a minimum of 7 days before the finish

coat is applied Finish

A sample of the finish coat color has been provided by the stucco contractor Acrylic finish has been applied in temperatures of 4 degrees Celsius or higher OR cement finish has been applied in temperatures of 2 degrees Celsius or higher Eaves troughs are in place to prevent staining on finish coat

Warranties HPO Do you qualify for the HPO warranty

Have submitted any necessary request forms Have a signed hard copy of the warranty Understand maintenance requirements Know how to make a claim Manufacturer Do you qualify for a Manufacturer’s warranty Have submitted any necessary request forms Have a signed hard copy of the warranty Understand maintenance requirements Know how to make a claim

Builder Do you qualify for a Manufacturer’s warranty Have submitted any necessary request forms Have a signed hard copy of the warranty Understand maintenance requirements Know how to make a claim Special Obtain and read the disclosure statement from the developer Requirements for Multifamily Buildings


Used Stucco Home Purchase Checklist

Professional Do you know who the builder and developer were? Inquiry Does the builder have a provincial license?

Is the builder a member of any trade associations such as: Urban Development Institute Canadian Home Builder’s Association BC Construction Association Wall & Ceiling Association Checked the builder out with the Better Business Bureau Have a court search of companies and directors to find out if builder is involved in any lawsuits.

Seller’s If property is listed under MLS, have been given a completed Responsibility property disclosure form

(this provides general information in writing about the condition of the property)

Home Inspector A home inspector has reviewed the property and reported any problems

Building Elements The building has adequate roof overhangs for a wet coastal climate Or has a rainscreen system with appropriate flashings Decks slant away from the building so water can drain Eaves Troughs are directing water from the roof to the ground without water running down the exterior cladding

Flashings Expansion joints are present at each floor level There are flashings over all windows, doors and vents

Warranty

HPO Is the HPO warranties still in effect? (2,5,10 years) Have a signed hard copy of the warranty Understand maintenance requirements Know how to make a claim Manufacturer Are any manufacturers’ warranties still in effect? Have a signed hard copy of the warranty Understand maintenance requirements Know how to make a claim Builder Is the builder warranty still in effect? Have a signed hard copy of the warranty Understand maintenance requirements Know how to make a claim


Prior to 1999 Builder was not required to be licensed, do additional follow-up No provincial on the builder and developers credentials and histories Warranty

Special Requirements for Obtain and read the disclosure statement from the developer Multifamily Review the last 2 years of the strata meeting minutes Buildings


WORKS CITED

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Billiter, Matthew. Color Technician, Bayer Inc. Interview. October 29, 2002.

Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. “Wall Moisture Problems in Alberta Dwellings.” Research Highlights 2000. 2000.

CHMC. Wood Frame Envelopes in the Coastal Climate of BC. CMHC, 1999

Concrete Technology Today Portland Cement Association. "Efflorescence: Causes, Prevention, Repair.” Concrete Technology Today. November 6, 2001: 5.

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Geary, Thomas. “Patching Cracks in Plaster.” May 1993.

Goldsworthy, Rachel. “Earthquake Study May Change Code.” Journal of Commerce. August 27, 2001.

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Documents

Prepared for: David Weins, Instructor of ENTR 3130 S10: … Guide to stucco.pdf · 2010-06-21 · A Homebuyer’s Guide to Stucco Cladding v ENTR 3130 S10 DEFINITIONS Abrasives: Substance