PREMIUM CROATIAN WINE ESTATESgrandcro.hr/wp-content/uploads/Grand_Cro_Brošura.pdf · the development of viticulture and wine production on the hills of Croatia as we know it today,

P R E M I U M C R O A T I A N W I N E E S T A T E S

The period since the end of the last century until now can be best described as the renaissance of Croatian wine production. In this period, the focus has moved from the yield and quantity to quality. This is evident in the continuous increase of the number of wines with protected designation of origin, quality wines and premium quality wines as compared to table wines, as well as the number of bottled wines in relation to one-litre bottles and bulk wines. Around 20,000 hectares of vineyards are divided into four basic wine regions: Slavonia & Croatian Danube, Croatian Uplands, Istria and Kvarner, Dalmatia. At the moment, total wine production in Croatia is around 750,000 hectolitres per year.

The value of wine export has been on the rise recently, and in the year 2017 the export was worth over 13 million euros. The largest part of Croatian wines is traditionally exported to the neighbouring Bosnia and Herzegovina, followed by Germany. An important category called “internal export” needs to be added to the relatively modest total amount of Croatian wine export. It denotes the increasing amount consumed by almost twenty million foreign tourists in Croatia. Among them, there are a growing number of visitors for whom the wine and gourmet experience is the key motivational factor for visiting Croatia. The exporters have yet to seize the opportunity to give wine lovers a chance to buy Croatian wine in their homeland after a visit to Croatia. Because the word about Croatian wine renaissance is slowly spreading around the world.

The tradition of wine culture in Croatian wine regions is a broad subject. Some of the most interesting pages in the history of wine making in general were written right in this area. In the centuries long before Christ, the Ancient Greeks colonized the Adriatic region of today’s Croatia. On their ships they regularly carried grapevines looking for the best possible positions in their newly occupied colonies. The oldest coin found in Dalmatia has a symbolic meaning: on the front side it shows the poet Homer, and on the reverse a bunch of grapes. Afterwards, the Romans used a systematic approach to the development of viticulture and wine production on the hills of Croatia as we know it today, from the Central European area around the Danube, to the Mediterranean Konavle.

Monks guarded the civilization against the medieval darkness with wine culture, especially the Cistercians at the dawn of the modern era, and later also brothers from other orders. The meticulous Austro-Hungarian bureaucracy, as people say, brought order to the viticulture and wine production on the territory of today’s Croatia, especially in cadastral records. Imperial and royal enologists tested many previously unknown grape varieties in the new vineyards of Croatian wine regions. The winemakers started closely evaluating the results of native grapes as compared to the introduced ones. The epidemic of grape phylloxera changed the wine map of the Old Continent. Some Dalmatian island vineyards on sandy soil resisted the disease the longest. This brought

Small Croatia in the Great Wine World

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them remarkable success and recognition by European experts scared by the great wine blight spreading across the continent. In the time when Croatia was part of Yugoslavia, unfortunately vintners and winemakers were primarily obsessed with high yield instead of the quality of wine. Even then, a small number of enologists in Croatia still resolutely insisted on respecting the great potential of different terroirs. However, early in the second half of the last century, the first most precious wine appellations in Croatia were protected, first Dingač, and then Postup, both on Pelješac peninsula. But these were only isolated accomplishments.

The radical turnaround in the 1990s following Croatia’s independence quickly led to encouraging examples. A few young winemakers decided to try the possibilities and limits of neglected grape varieties. Along with these young forces, a few renowned enologists dared to leave state-owned wine cooperatives and embark on the adventure of starting their own, initially small wineries. While the pioneers were full of enthusiasm, they still needed to stay cool-headed in evaluating the true values of the great heritage: what part of tradition needs to be kept, and what modern ideas, methods and technologies need to be adopted. And thus the new standards of wine production in this area were set. Even the conventional description of typical varietal characteristics was re-established.

It is especially exciting to question the potential of a number of indigenous grape varieties. The revolutionary action by a group of young winemakers in Istria was very significant. They set to give a radical new treatment to Malvazija Istarska, traditional and not highly regarded wine: from planting to marketing strategies. The whole Istrian region used this ambitious wine wave to rise into an attractive food and wine destination, making a positive impact on the overall travel industry and Istrian results. This success was contagious so winemakers all over Croatia were moved by the spirit of revival. A systematic classification of indigenous grapes was

possible thanks to the new advancements in DNA analysis. The discovery of Dalmatian ancestors of the Californian Zinfandel in 2001 is a scientifically proven fact that made a splash on the global wine scene. The list of confirmed indigenous grape varieties is increasing every year. Some almost forgotten varieties are being revived and their potential exploited.

However, the advocates of authentic qualities are not the only ones enjoying success among wine lovers outside Croatia. It has been proven that a large number of the so-called classic French grape varieties and many other international ones can easily find optimum positions in the geographical and climatic diversity of Croatia. Along with desirable varietal characteristics, they can show distinct features of Croatian regions’ terroir and reflect the personality of the winemaker.

Almost half of the wine production in Croatia is based on the five leading grape varieties: more than a fifth is produced from Graševina. Although this is actually Welschriesling variety, common across Central Europe, Croatian Graševina wines are by far the most diverse, and the best of them deserve the highest ratings. Moreover, many experts believe that Graševina’s origin is to be found in Croatia, before it made its way to the world.

Indigenous and introduced varieties compete with each other in Croatia’s wine regions. Plavac Mali in Dalmatia and Malvazija Istarska in Istria and Kvarner follow after Graševina in terms of quantity, but French classics like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are also among the top five most wide-spread grapes. In Croatian wine regions, typical and desirable characteristics of grape varieties also gain their specific qualities and character from the local terroir.

This bustling new Croatian wine scene is quite interesting. There are numerous ideas, experiments and new labels, but only sedimentation of trends over the course of time will show true, long-lasting values.

Croatian Wine regions


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CroatianUplands

Zagreb is surrounded by Zagorje and Prigorje, with Plešivica, Moslavina and Međimurje in its close vicinity. Although Zagreb is the capital of Croatia, a city with a population of million, traces of vineyards and viticulture in the past are still present, in different ways. The fact is, apart from a few miniature public vineyards of a purely symbolic and touristic importance, only the Faculty of Agriculture manages a demonstration vineyard and a fairly serious winery.

Yet, in the aforementioned areas surrounding the capital, the winemaking story is fermenting rather strongly. The boom of tourism, wine bars and wine shops makes Zagreb the informal reception of the Croatian Uplands and its wine roads, as well as a great platform for the promotion and consumption of local wines. Zagorje region proves that it is full of potential, and Zagorje wines have been receiving important international awards lately, like at Decanter World Wine Awards. In addition to white grape varieties, a selection of premium red grape blends from Zagorje wineries is a special surprise. Rustic Zagorje cuisine, which used to be labelled as “peasant food”, gets all the praise now because of its authenticity, and the region’s rural hospitality industry stimulates the local wine production.

In Prigorje, potentials of Kraljevina are being put to the test, with sparkling wines as a special issue, while Plešivica is all “bubbly” and nicknamed little Croatian Champagne. In the beginnings, local winemakers tried to

imitate their French role models and consistently hold on to the traditional Champagne method. Now they dare to go their own ways, leaving even the international experts amazed. Sparkling wine made from grapes aged in a large Georgian amphora is one such example. New and comfortable hotel facilities on the doorway to this wine region now make the vision of ambitious Plešivica wine tourism appear real.

In Moslavina, Škrlet used to be popular in the past – not because of its quality, but as a young wine that reaches consumers early, along with Portugizac. As such it avoided extinction and captured the market, especially through local restaurants and bars. Now it shows it is ready for something more, and can more often be found on prestigious wine lists, in a refined version, or even as an aged wine with an elegant touch of minerality. The number of small wineries in Moslavina has been rapidly rising in recent years. Međimurje is an example of an excellent value for money ratio. Local winemakers especially prove it with the leading regional grape variety, the crispy Pušipel. Sauvignon Blanc is part of the story that connects Međimurje with Slovenian and South Austrian wine regions whose modern approach to this variety has gained attention of experts all over the world. By the end of the last century, Riesling lost the prestige it had enjoyed in continental Croatia for a long time, but Međimurje winemakers are working to improve its reputation. Tasting rooms of small and midsize family wineries are becoming more charming and professional, which guarantees a successful future for this region, too.


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Dalmatia

The origin of wine civilization on the territory of today's Croatia is found in Dalmatia. The first island vineyards on Vis and Hvar were planted by Greek colonizers in the centuries before Christ. Croats settled this area in the 7th century and quickly adopted the rich wine tradition they found there.

Dalmatian vineyards resisted phylloxera longer than others. In the years when Europe suffered an incredible thirst for wine, virtually the whole of the island of Vis was turned into a vineyard, and the myth of powerful Dalmatian wines spread across the continent. But there is a reverse side of this story. Eventually the pest did devastate Dalmatian vineyards, causing a period of massive emigration unlike any this region had seen in its turbulent history.

The first top quality appellations were protected on Pelješac Peninsula in 1960s. First it was Dingač, then also Postup. Plavac Mali from these spectacular vineyards achieved a cult status, still on the rise with some of the most highly appreciated among Croatian wines. Similar prestige is enjoyed by vineyards on the southern slopes of Hvar and Brač. The story about turning rocky ground into vineyards won the protection of UNESCO to Primošten’s Babić.

Along with the strong red wines, the story about white Dalmatians is getting more interesting. Malvasija Dubrovačka is not a close relative of Malvazija Istarska; even though their names differ only in letter S or Z, their

aromatic differences are very clear. There is much less Malvasija Dubrovačka than the Istrian one, partly because during the Homeland War, in the 1990s, it almost disappeared. Now it has been replanted and it is the main attraction of Konavle vineyards in Cavtat’s hinterland.

The most important and leading Dalmatian white grape variety in the new line-up is definitely Pošip, perfectly meeting the demand for easy drinking wines with the elegant hints of minerality. In general, Dalmatia leads in the number of native grape varieties, especially those that lead to both good and premium quality wines. Unfortunately, some of them are entirely limited to a small area, like the already mentioned Babić or Grk from Korčula, growing on recognizable sandy soils on the island. Modern vinification raised the standards and expectations in case of Debit and Maraština.

Dalmatia, previously a cheap summer destination for mass tourism, nowadays stands for a top tourist and nautical destination which attracts the most demanding visitors in its most attractive part, those who seek much more than just the sea and nature. That kind of status cannot be achieved without a matching food and wine scene. Tasting rooms of certain wineries have grown into hangouts for high-class clients. From restaurants in the picturesque wilderness of Kornati Archipelago to upscale restaurants in the protected parts of historic old towns, the new Dalmatian cuisine introduces itself ranging from seafood minimalism to rhapsodies worthy of Michelin stars.


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Istria and Kvarner

The most exciting wine region of New Europe – this is how Istria and Kvarner are described in the “Guide to Wineries and Wines of Croatia”, a wine and gourmet guide. This superlative is not hard to prove. Legend has it that the ancient Greeks from the island of Monemvasia chose Istria to promote wine culture in it. Along with vineyards, Roman emperors also planted the most precious olive groves in the Empire in Istria.

Croatian wine renaissance in the early 1990s started in Istria as a clear vision of developing wine production and establishing a wine and gourmet destination. A group of young winemakers and tourism professionals designed a concept whose basis included a radically new approach to the most widespread grape varieties of the region. First of all, Malvazija Istarska. In the past this wine was produced in large quantities, without special attention, and it was sold in bulk or one-litre bottles at a cheap price. The very idea that Malvazija could be turned into a modern high quality wine in accordance with the leading trends on the global market was bold and revolutionary. The project was even more ambitious and coherent. It foresaw a modern, attractive logo design and labels, local and international advertising campaigns, promotion at big international wine and gourmet festivals, marking a network of wine roads etc. The starting point was, naturally, the surprisingly attractive new Malvazija Istarska.

Its example was followed by the region’s native red grape variety: Teran. Until this wine revolution Teran was, like Malvazija Istarska, an underrated variety. It was an unusual folk wine with excessive acidity that was consumed in large quantities in Istrian taverns, often with added sugar to make it drinkable. The new Teran was a new success. The acidity lost its aggressiveness, the

freshness was preserved, the aromas were balanced. An even bigger surprise was when a few far-sighted winemakers presented aged Terans and showed how big the potential of the grape was. Until then, Teran was usually enjoyed as a young wine in the year of the harvest and would normally be gone until the next harvest.

Istria and Istrian people optimally used all the advantages that presented themselves in this big turnaround. In the first place, the very position of the northernmost peninsula in the Mediterranean, a region that connects Central Europe with the Mediterranean. The vicinity of Trieste, Venice, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Graz, Vienna and Munich is crucial. The “Mare e Monti” formula (Sea and Mountains) lies at the heart of the region’s culinary diversity. Istarian gastronomic icons led by the most appreciated white truffle and three black truffles have become a serious competition for Alba. The season of fresh truffles lasts almost the entire year in Istria. Moreover, there are premium quality olive oils that regularly win the highest ratings and awards at the most prestigious international competitions, as well as in the Flos Olei guide. Of course, the geographical position of Istria guarantees constant availability of fresh fish and seafood, while seasonal ingredients like wild asparagus or porcini mushrooms enjoy great popularity. From rustic taverns to restaurants with the first Croatian Michelin stars – the scene is growing and raises its own bar every year.

In Kvarner area, the Island of Krk has attracted special attention of the wine audience. The modern and attractively easy drinking version of the old grape variety Žlahtina is a hit among the so-called summer wines.


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Slavonia and Croatian Danube

Pannonia, the fertile and scenic Central European plain laced with rivers, was the goal of great migrations of nations and conquerors. Turbulent history has left deep traces and also a distinctive mark on the wine culture.

In its Croatian part – Slavonia and part of the Danube – there is a number of positions where experts advised Roman generals to plant vineyards, back in the time when they invaded the territory. Roman legions were not only conquerors; besides building camps they also promoted agrarian development. Learned monks followed their advice centuries later.

Sandy vineyards descending towards river beds and southern slopes of central Slavonia are positions that open up possibilities for the highest wine challenges for skilled winemakers. Still, history is not a chronology of continuous progress.

Ottoman invaders were not fond of the wine culture. Therefore, for a victory over Turkish forces noblemen and army leaders were rewarded with estates where vineyards and wineries in castle cellars would appear. Some of them are preserved, back in function, not only as museum space but also as wineries, impressive witnesses of the continuity of wine culture in Croatia. The cellars of Kutjevo, Ilok and Kneževi Vinogradi store and age the most famous Croatian wine archives.

In the socialist period, the imperative of high yields and

large quantities largely overshadowed the pursuit of cultivation and elegance. Agricultural cooperatives from that age contributed to the expansion of vineyards, so the size of a vineyard was atypical in comparison with most of the other Croatian wine regions and their fragmented plots.

The revival of wine production started, as in almost all other Croatian wine regions, at the end of the 20th century. The arguments to attract wine lovers are convinc ing : these winer ies produce not only stylistically the most diverse Graševina wines of the world but also the best, by far. Predicate Traminers used to be part of royal celebrations in the past - and they still are today.

Slavonia and Croatian Danube are not only white wine reserves. All traditional French red grape varieties thrive in this region and are produced and bottled as both varietal and blend wines. The case is similar with Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt. Although varietal diversity is a good argument to attract the audience, there is no doubt that Graševina is the key to the wine story of Slavonia and Croatian Danube.

Recently, tasting rooms have opened, wine hotels have been built, and all is accompanied by a suitable gourmet scene. All these things are preconditions to modern wine tourism that has been increasingly spreading from Croatian Adriatic regions to the continent.


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In the development of the Croatian wine industry, the focus is on preservation, not growth. Croatia is a small country whose main riches are the astonishing geographical, historical and cultural diversity of its regions. Quantities are not the forte of this country, but quality certainly is. Individual craftsmanship is the growth vision of gastronomy in general, especially enology. All standard international grape varieties can be grown in Croatia, and they thrive in large amounts, but along with them scientists have listed around 130 indigenous grapes so far, a number that is still increasing. Of course, not all of these grapes can be turned into premium quality wines, but many of them are attractive due to their local charm, and around ten of them definitely have the potential for impressive results.

In this multifaceted image of natural conditions and historical heritage, it is obvious that the greatest strength of the Croatian winemaking lies in small wineries. Yet, this is also a limitation, because in today’s world it is extremely hard for a small winemaker with small quantities to attract attention on the vast and oversupplied global wine scene. The answer to this challenge definitely lies in uniting, and this is the underlying idea of the Grand Cro, an association that gathers eight Croatian winemakers with outstanding individualities, different at first glance. Their vineyards, wineries and wine hotels are scattered all over Croatia, focused on different grape varieties, grown on diverse

positions, from the Danube to the Mediterranean. Each of them develops his own wine style, but all are connected by the best propelling fuel for pursuing excellence – persistence, passion and self-belief. When they appear together at Croatian and international wine trade shows, they are kind of representatives of the Croatian enological diversity. The essential Croatian indigenous grape varieties can be found among their labels. Yet, when they present blends and classic, globally widespread grapes, a distinctive quality of the terroir is always present in them. When the word terroir is mentioned, usual ly microclimatic characteristics, soil composition, vineyard inclination and exposure come to mind. But more often, the most important element is also added to the list: the person who defines the style of a winery. While in big wineries this individuality is lost, in Grand Cro wineries it is in the foreground. The character of the eight Grand Cro wine enthusiasts is reflected in their wines.

At the beginning of the Croatian wine renaissance, in the late 20th century, the world did not know that the small Croatia is a wine country. Today, wine and gastronomy is the reason why many visitors come to Croatia, and the list of worldwide restaurants whose elaborate wine lists include Croatian wines is growing. Some of the credit for this also goes to the winemakers of the Grand Cro association, who are telling an exciting tale about the modern Croatian wine production stemming from thousands of years of wine tradition.

GrandCro


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BAKOVIĆ

My family has been making wine for generations, as far as we can remember, says Hrvoje Baković, but it was him who dared to make a big step forward in the production. Because Bakovićs before him had clearly limited their wine production – they made only as much as they could drink, as they honestly testified. Hrvoje does not hesitate to say that he is self-taught. He doesn't have any formal education; winemaking from the books would lead him astray from his beliefs. He graduated from the school of life and winemaking in the vineyards and winery. On the other hand, the optimism of the Croatian wine renaissance obviously played its part. He decided to change the family story and give the market a wine from the unique, not easy to access steep southern positions of the island of Brač, about whose potential he had no doubts.

He restored and planted 5 hectares of vineyard on Murvica position, near Bol. Along with the indigenous Plavac, which still takes two thirds of the vineyard, he also planted Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The possibility to expand a vineyard on the southern slopes of Brač suitable for red grape varieties is very limited. He cannot significantly increase the average annual production of 30,000 bottles nor does he want to.

Therefore he tries to hold on to his principles during every harvest: authenticity is the shortest way to excellence, especially if the grapes are sourced from the best positions on the island of Brač.

In the beginnings, when he decided to devote himself to winemaking, he must have felt very lonely in his vineyard, almost as a hermit. Although his winery was not easily accessible – the road has been paved only recently – in tourist season the admirers are queuing in front of it to taste the authentic Brač wine from the source. The original marketing idea was to age a good wine and let it tell its story. However, this concept is not destined to hold out in the modern world, where it is impossible to avoid the press and the media. Luckily, there are a lot of subjects Hrvoje likes to discuss.

Alongside Baković's affirmation, the island of Brač grew into a desirable wine and food destination, not just an ordinary tourist place, and Hrvoje is a great advocate of the indigenous Brač cuisine. Besides, he is a passionate fisherman and beekeeper, and Brač honey is a unique herbal essence, a reflection of the island's ethereal plant richness. Brač is a self-sufficient Mediterranean microcosm wonderfully depicted by Baković labels.


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INFOWINERY ADDRESS

BAKOVIĆ WINERYMurvica bb21420 Murvica (Bol), Otok Brač

WINERY GPS:

43°15'58.1"N 16°35'33.5"ECONTACT PERSON:

Hrvoje Baković

CONTACT:

+ 385 91 5095 [email protected]

HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Hrvoje Baković

T:E:W:

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Vinogradarstvo - Vinarstvo BakovićPut Gaja 421400 Supetar, Otok Brač

Bibich

Anthony Bourdain's dedication to Bibich winery at the end of his episode on Croatia is legendary. The tragic genius paid homage to the unexpected gastronomic experience he enjoyed in the tasting room of this family winery in the village of Plastovo, on a hill above Skradin. The ritual of enjoying small bites with each of their numerous wine labels attracts the elite from all over the world anchored on the yachts in Skradin marina. Alen Bibić is a wine visionary and a great presenter, and people often say that from a graduate in literature he turned into an honorary professor in the living department of tourism. His wife Vesna keeps away from the attention of guests and the media, but she is omnipresent from the winery to the kitchen. Even though very young, their son Filip shows the genetic ancestry with his own creations like an authentic Dalmatian gin.

Bibić family is a textbook example of how the hidden potentials of the rustic, almost wild Dalmatian hinterland are transformed into an all-encompassing and modern culinary experience. There are numerous examples to back up this statement. On the wine scene, for instance, they rebuilt the reputation of the indigenous Debit grape variety which had fallen into oblivion and averageness in the second half of the 20th century. The wine curiosity in this family is insatiable, from the forgotten local varieties, ancient Georgian grapes like Rkatsiteli, to the characteristics that the ubiquitous Chardonnay assumes on Central Dalmatia terroir. Studying the features of the indigenous and introduced grapes, they managed to

produce a line of modern Dalmatian sparkling wines, easy drinking yet full of character. The winery's premium level achievements are found under the labels Bas de Bas and Aleph.

The creative frenzy does not stop with wines and the matching gastronomy. The family could not just sit and watch how the cult of Marasca, the most appreciated sour cherry of Zadar hinterland, is fading. Although the real Maraschino liqueur is distilled only from this indigenous variety of sour cherry, on the global market the original label has been eclipsed by Italian clones. The Bibić family went back to tradition, when numerous families of Central Dalmatia had their own recipes and competed with the enchanting aromas of their liqueurs. They tried it out in various variants, even as a perfume.

It feels like the winery has been evolving naturally and every year it offers new attractions, like the charming bungalows which the Bibićs are now “planting” next to their vineyards. The impression of a well-thought-out design includes everything from the details to the large picture. Rustic elegance lies at the heart of the brand. It is present in the glasses, in the taste and presentation of the food on plates served at wine tastings, label design, architecture, interior decorating, lighting. This impression is especially overwhelming when a guest steps into the winery for the first time, looking for a shelter from the Mediterranean summer heat. The Bibich concept is a fulfilled vision of modern upscale tourism in Dalmatia.

g r a n d c r o . h r


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INFOWINERY ADDRESS:

BIBICH WINERYZapadna ulica 6322222 Plastovo, Skradin

WINERY GPS:

43°52'52.2"N 15°55'08.6"E

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Vina Bibich PTOZapadna ulica 6322222 Plastovo, Skradin

CONTACT PERSON:

Tasting Room

CONTACT:


HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Alen Bibić

T:E:W:

Boškinac

The family nickname of winemaker Boris Šuljić on his native island of Pag is Boškinac. He made it the name of his wine hotel, restaurant, winery and wine labels. For generations, winemaking has been the integral part of the family identity. The winery was built above the Novaljsko polje (Novalja plain) near Stara Novalja.

Boris himself is particularly responsible for saving the indigenous Pag grape variety Gegić from extinction and for its promotion. Unfortunately, a few other grape varieties from the island didn't survive. Boškinac Winery was founded in the early 2000s, and saving Gegić was its first mission. Boris found some old vines on the southern side of the island and replanted the scions in his vineyard. On sandy soil the average yield per vine is only half a kilo. Testing the characteristics and potential of Gegić was the second phase of the mission: from the processing method to keep the original freshness to the aspiration for a complex expression using the sur lie method and aging in oak barrels.

Along with Gegić, Boris planted Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and red grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The sparkling wine, launched recently under the label Viaz, is made from Ugni Blanc variety. The winery uses grapes from their own vineyards on the island of Pag and from continental vineyards located in Posedarje,

along with a limited amount of grapes supplied from reliable partners.

When the name Boškinac is mentioned, the first thing that comes to the mind of wine connoisseurs is the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot produced only in good years, the winery’s flagship label. After the vinification process it ages in small oak barrels for two years, then it is bottled and put on the market three to four years after the harvest. The winery also produce white blend made from Gegić, Chardonnay and Sauvignon.

Šuljić is the pioneer of the modern wine and culinary tourism on the island of Pag. Built on a hill above the vineyards, Boškinac wine hotel and restaurant is the place where numerous established Croatian chefs, as well as young talents, have cooked and gained knowledge and experience. The common idea underlying all their menus is to offer original dishes with dominantly local ingredients. Sheep’s milk, curd cheese, hard cheese and lamb are the iconic products of the island. In the world of foodies, scampi from the cold sea of the Velebit Channel rich with springs enjoy the same reputation. The road from natural richness to an unforgettable experience is a direct one. Boškinac is an example of ambitious environmentally friendly and sustainable development on the Adriatic islands.


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INFOWINERY ADDRESS:

BOŠKINAC WINERYŠkopaljska Ulica 22053291 Novalja, Otok Pag

WINERY GPS:

44°34'20.7"N 14°54'00.7"E

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Cissa d.o.o.Škopaljska Ulica 3053291 Novalja, Otok Pag

CONTACT PERSON:

Boris Šuljić

CONTACT:


HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Vinolab

T:E:W:

Duboković

Marketing professor Ivo Duboković has sacrificed his university career. For years he tried to lead a double life teaching in Zagreb and managing a winery in Jelsa, on his native island of Hvar. Now he has decided to dedicate himself to wine exclusively. From the capital he returned to his Mediterranean arcadia. He didn't change the time zone, but certainly did change the flow of time. His cycle now begins with the bud break in the vineyards and ends with bottling.

Of course, winemaking is not only story and poetry even among the winemakers who are obsessed with this profession like him. His grandfather founded a small winery on the family estate in the first half of the 20th century, and Ivo expanded the vineyards on two crucial, completely different Hvar locations. One is on the famous steep southern slopes exposed to double insolation: directly from the sun and reflected from the sea. The second one is on a less extreme location inland.

Duboković was born and grew up with the vineyards and the wine, he has been friends with winemakers since his childhood, studying the specific characteristics of the vineyard positions and winemaking methods. For years, he painstakingly strived for excellence, testing his knowledge while spending time in vineyards and cellar.

In those early hobbyist days, Duboković created Medvjedica and Medvid, one of the cult Croatian wines.

Since then, each label is a well-thought-out concept, starting with the name. Even though his annual production usually does not go over 20,000 litres, Duboković managed to produce a large number of labels, and he is never short of new ideas. Although the number of his labels is rising, he has narrowed down his focus and dedicated himself only to indigenous varieties from Hvar and Dalmatia.

Moja B is a varietal Bogdanuša, Moja M is Maraština, Laganini is Drnekuša, Moj otok is a blend of Maraština, Bogdanuša, Parča and Kuč, 2718 is Plavac Mali, named after the number of sunny days on the island, N11 is a rosé wine made from Plavac Mali. Dessert wines are also produced, from ripe and overripe berries. Of course, the list also includes his most important labels Medvid and Medvjedica, both from Plavac Mali grape. Their common trait is honesty.

What I love, I put in bottles, says Ivo Duboković.


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INFOWINERY ADDRESS:

DUBOKOVIĆ WINERYJelsa 30121465 Jelsa, Otok Hvar

WINERY GPS:

43°09'37.6"N 16°41'08.6"E

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Duboković d.o.o.Jelsa 30121465 Jelsa, Otok Hvar

CONTACT PERSON:

Ivo Duboković

CONTACT:

+385 91 4410 [email protected]

HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Ivo Duboković

T:E:W:

Galić

In the early 2000s, entrepreneur Josip Galić decided to stop being just a wine lover and enthusiast and become a serious Slavonian winemaker. The ambitious vision began with a bold first step. He did not reach out to established names, but rather hired a team of extraordinarily talented experts who hadn't proven themselves yet. Moreover, the head of the team was not a Slavonian, but a Dalmatian enologist Slaven Jeličić. Yet, the selection of vineyard positions was unquestionable. Kutjevo wine region is located in the heart of Slavonia, it is the hub of a great winemaking tradition and the place where the best Graševina is grown and some of the best Slavonian wines are made.

The first Galić winery in the village of Lukač near Kutjevo is the complete opposite of the newly opened one. In the first one, the goal was to get the garage-style winemaking facility up and running as soon as possible. The new one is an elaborate project, an impressive two-storey building in the centre of Kutjevo designed for future generations. Along with the new building, the winery is also planting new vineyards. Soon after the company was founded, Galić wines captured the audience's attention. The progress was evident from harvest to harvest, but only now is the project completed, from the cultivation of grapes in the winery's own vineyards to the presentation of wines in wine

restaurants owned by the company. The elegant winery is an example of industrial design which aims to impress, but designed according to the principle of optimal functionality. Without any problems it can maintain the highest standards of wine production, native yeast cultivation, aging, laboratory control, all the way to wax sealing the bottles in a special facility. The standard wine catalogue is increasing every year because the winery is now additionally equipped for wine experiments.

Graševina, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are white varieties which had earned the winery the first compliments from wine experts. Along with them, classic French red grape varieties were planted, too. They are bottled as varietal wines and blends, Bijelo 9 and Crno 9 (9 is Josip Galić's lucky number, and he admits he's obsessed with it). The rosé is a light blend of red grapes, Leon Graševina is a selected dry berries harvest. Sparkling wines are something new in the Galić portfolio, produced as Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noir.

The bottleneck of the great wine tourism potential of this region is the inadequate level and capacity of restaurants and hotels. For this reason, Josip Galić first bought a small wine hotel located near Kutjevo, and then also the first proper Slavonian wine hotel in Brodski Stupnik, built at the turn of the century by Zdjelarević family.


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INFOWINERY ADDRESS:

GALIĆ WINERYRepublike Hrvatske 12534340 Kutjevo

WINERY GPS:

45°25'34.9"N 17°52'59.8"E

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Galić d.o.o.Republike Hrvatske 12534340 Kutjevo

CONTACT PERSON:

Andrej Markulin

CONTACT:


HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Slaven Jeličić

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MeneghettiNobody had produced wine in my family before me, which is why I established a winery in Istria, where wine culture is the foundation of civilizational identity, cultural heritage passed on from generation to generation, the birthplace of the revival which has spread across all Croatian wine regions, says Miroslav Plišo, the founder and owner of Meneghetti winery and brand. For his story he chose a location on red soil (terre rosse) rich in minerals in the south of Istria, near Bale and just across the Brijuni Islands, on positions where Roman emperors had already planted premium olive groves and vineyards. The estate has a long tradition of wine and olive oil production, with the first written documents dating back to the mid-19th century.

A century and a half later, in the year 2000, Plišo renovated a neglected olive grove so he and his friends could enjoy premium quality olive oil. In this phase, Meneghetti Estate underwent restoration and expansion to satisfy the needs of the new owner and his friends. Many hard-working and bold people took part in the realization of this project, now run by Walter Filiputti, a renowned Italian winemaker and wine consultant. What are the potentials of the terroir and its pedologic diversity, the vicinity of the sea and favourable microclimatic features – those questions were constantly on their minds. After the first few olive harvests, they planted the first grapevines, too. The love for wine turned into a very successful hobby which soon became a serious business. The olive grove, vineyard, winery, luxurious wine hotel and upscale restaurant completed Meneghetti and turned it into a well-rounded

destination attracting guests from all over the world. Producing exactly the kind of wine you want to drink yourself is a fantasy of all wine lovers, as well as winemakers, and in this case the dream has slowly come true. The ambition to make the best white and red blend, a French concept in a strongly local version, is the original impulse of the Meneghetti wine philosophy. In this small niche, Meneghetti Red (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc) has gained a cult status, as confirmed by comments and reviews from the world' leading wine authorities. A similar status is also enjoyed by the winery's other premium label, Meneghetti White, an aged blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. Furthermore, the winery produces a sparkling wine, a line of young Istrian wines, as well as a line of young wines from Konavle in Dubrovnik surroundings, where they also own vineyards and grow Malvasija Dubrovačka, a very interesting and most important local indigenous grape variety.

The unique terroir of the vineyards and a well-planned modern winery facility enable the optimal winemaking cycle from the cultivation of grapes, precise timing for harvest, to the entire vinification process, and then aging, bottling and releasing the bottles to target markets, primarily prestigious wine shops and restaurants. But the ultimate pleasure is the first-hand experience of Meneghetti Estate: vineyard, winery and wine & food pairing in their own restaurant. Tradition which gives us only the best without setting any limits, and the idea that wine without passion is just an ordinary beverage, has kept this concept alive, and will continue to be its guiding principle.

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INFOWINERY ADDRESS:

MENEGHETTI WINERYStancija Meneghetti 152211 Bale

WINERY GPS:

45°00'28.0"N 13°44'42.8"E

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Meneghetti d.o.o.Gundulićeva 1810000 Zagreb

CONTACT PERSON:

Petar Delić

CONTACT:


HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Walter Filiputti & Damir Bosek

T:E:W:

Petrač

It is a difficult task to gain reputation with a Zagorje winery that surpasses regional boundaries. Wine production has a long tradition in this region, the positions are favourable, the pedologic map is suitable, the rolling hills directed towards the sun are perfect for the vineyards, the elevation guarantees cool nights even on hot summer days, while the thermal groundwater is a special protection against frost. The local people's inclination for wine is legendary – as the song says, Zagorje folks would drink all the wine they produced, usually in company, with their neighbours. Yet, all of these seemingly favourable starting points for a wine story caused a big problem – high yields and large quantities of wine created the myth about Zagorje wine as cheap and average.

This unfortunate perception became deep-rooted and a change could only be brought by an uncompromisingly headstrong person ready to deal with the greatest possible challenges. Hrvoje Petrač and sons decided to start the production of premium quality Zagorje wines not heeding the advice of benevolent people who warned them that they had undertaken an impossible mission. They were determined to reach the highest winemaking level of their terroir, not only in the conventional white varieties led by Graševina, but also in classic Bordeaux blends.

Hršak Breg near the popular Krapinske Toplice is Petrač family inheritance, systematically expanded by new generations. On 10 hectares of vineyards they planted common Graševina and Chardonnay, the most widespread Croatian and the most widespread international white grape variety. Along with them, French red standards like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A bottle labelled with a memorable name “Karizma” was their first wine that amazed connoisseurs and started the Petrač story. What is this, is it possible that a pedigree red comes from Zagorje, many wine experts wondered after the first tastings. The reason lies in Hrvoje Petrač's unusual preference, because among Zagorje wine lovers who usually drink light white wines, he is an exception with his fondness for powerful reds. The winery also has an interesting line of sparkling wines called Breg H, produced using the traditional method. Due to the specific geographic position and climate conditions, sweet wines and ice harvests from Petrač winery are highly esteemed and have won numerous awards.

Zagorje wine and culinary tourism is a trend in its beginnings, a story that has yet to be discovered and enjoyed. Petrač winery with its luxurious facilities and tasting room is definitely one of the main leaders of this new wave.


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INFOWINERY ADDRESS:

PETRAČ WINERYHršak Breg bb49217 Krapinske Toplice

WINERY GPS:

46°06'41.0"N 15°50'10.6"E

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Petrač d.o.o.Trg Žrtava Fašizma10000 Zagreb

CONTACT PERSON:

Matko Šutalo

CONTACT:


HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Igor Horvat

T:E:W:

Saints Hills

There is no room for steel tanks in the aging of my wines, this is the credo of Ernest Tolj, the owner of Saints Hills winery on Pelješac. It is not a rash advertising slogan. Looking for the location for a winery on Pelješac in the early 2000s, Tolj ended up in Zagruda. This hamlet had a population of four, the rest was history, including a beautiful stone house with an old wine cellar. It was not hard to build the new winery, yet to renovate a ruin down to the last detail and turn it into a working winery was a real accomplishment.

The outside of the central building remained the same, the space could only expand underground. It is a combination of archaeology and elite winery close to the vineyards on Dingač, the most valued protected position on the peninsula. Past and future meet in every corner and in this concept there is simply no room for steel tanks, so instead large oak and concrete vats dominate the cellar. The estate carries a simple name: Vinaria. The vineyard, winery and tasting room are united in a single complex, representing a first-rate attraction for wine lovers who flock here from all corners of the world. The three vineyards in Dalmatia and Istria are named after Ernest's children. The most ambitious one is

certainly Sveta Lucia vineyard on Dingač, and Plavac Mali coming from this position is Saints Hills' trophy wine. Sveti Ante is a vineyard on top-quality elevated positions, in the picturesque Istrian village of Radovani near Višnjan, where the night breeze soothes the summer heat. Sveti Roko in Komarna is a promising new position located just across Pelješac peninsula. The labels Dingač, Nevina and Sv. Roko are the final witnesses to an ambitious idea.

Indigenous Croatian grapes, as well as classic French varieties, on carefully selected but also very diverse positions, present a huge and demanding potential. Building a recognizable wine style with all these preconditions is a unique task. Ernest invited Michel Rolland, the world-famous enologist and consultant, to be his partner in the Saints Hills story. Business cooperation turned into friendship, as it often happens in projects where passion is the fuel that propels the vision.

Vinaria estate also includes accommodation, as well as a gourmet oasis where star chef Špiro Pavlić creates menus based on local ingredients.


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INFOWINERY ADDRESS:

SAINTS HILLS VINARIAZagruda bb20242 Oskorušno

WINERY GPS:

42°58'37.1"N 17°18'02.0"E

OFFICE ADDRESS:

Saints Hills d.o.o.Nova Ves 1110000 Zagreb

CONTACT PERSON:

Saša Franić

CONTACT:


HEAD ENOLOGIST:

Antonija Car

T:E:W:

IMPRESSUM

PUBLISHER:

GRAND CRO

VRSNA HRVATSKA VINSKA GOSPODARSTVA

ZAPADNA ULICA 63, PLASTOVO

22222 SKRADIN

CROATIA

PRODUCTION:

LAGUNA MASLINA D.O.O.

BUKOVAČKA CESTA 208

10000 ZAGREB

CROATIA

TEXT:

RENE BAKALOVIĆ

TRANSLATION:

MORANA ZIBAR

LAYOUT:

DEMODE

PHOTO:

DAMIR FABIJANIĆ, GRAND CRO ARCHIVE, CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY - WINE ASSOCIATION,

CROATIAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD, SHUTTERSTOCK

ZAGREB, SEPTEMBER, 2018

grandcro.hr

Documents

PREMIUM CROATIAN WINE ESTATESgrandcro.hr/wp-content/uploads/Grand_Cro_Brošura.pdf · the development of viticulture and wine production on the hills of Croatia as we know it today,